6000 count DMM's (NOT a good $9 newbie meter..) Resolved.

[IanB]

Based on the view metrics, I think the sweet spot is 7 or 8 minutes.

Yup, I definitely agree with that. I also prefer it if the results and conclusions of testing are in the video description along with any other technical info that might be interesting, keeping the video itself to the highlights: illustrating the test setup, showing the test procedure and so on. Videos are good for showing pictures and illustrations of things that are hard to describe in words, but text is better where words suffice.

[joeqsmith]

@Joe
Your videos are obviously very specialized. And you fast forward for us when cycling through to recheck a meter after every potentially destructive test. Most online videos of any subject are just way too long. I suspect the main reason besides filmmaking ignorance, is the extra time and effort to EDIT them properly. And yes, experienced filmmakers can fall in love with their work, and not edit them down enough. Example:
When Marty Scorsese was hired to direct “The Wolf of Wall Street”, the contract stated the movie could NOT run over 3 hours. So Marty made it 2 hours, and 59 minutes! Decent movie, but most critics agree about 30 minutes too long.

For an hour video, I would say I have on average about 8 hours of footage.   After editing, I have my wife watch and if she falls asleep, I cut more out.       Making the videos has been a good learning experience for me.  I cringe at the early ones I made.  I'm not a natural showman by any means.     

Yup, I definitely agree with that. I also prefer it if the results and conclusions of testing are in the video description along with any other technical info that might be interesting, keeping the video itself to the highlights: illustrating the test setup, showing the test procedure and so on. Videos are good for showing pictures and illustrations of things that are hard to describe in words, but text is better where words suffice.

I keep the data in a spreadsheet for just that reason.  There is really no need to even watch any of my videos.  Just download the latest spreadsheet.   What's a bit strange is I will have people write me and ask, so what do you think about such and such a meter.  More often than not, it's not one that I have ran.  So even with the spreadsheet, it's apparently too much to effort to read.  Feedback where people want to be spoon fed and then demand I wipe their asses is common.   As much as I seem to do wrong, it amazes me that it continues to grow.   

[bitseeker]

Yeah, editing is really key. Either cutting stuff out or compressing the time (e.g., when removing a gazillion screws to open a spectrum analyzer) makes a world of difference to the viewer. I have no problems watching Joe's vids. Keep up the good work!

[EEVblog]

Christ can't anyone spell hobbyist correctly before writing it in monitor-high letters?!?

Looks correct to me?

[Cliff Matthews]

Christ can't anyone spell hobbyist correctly before writing it in monitor-high letters?!?

Looks correct to me?

Johnny come lately!
I guess the YT poster swapped the embarrassing thumbnail. At least this Aneng wanna-be won't fall over so easy on the bench..

[MacMeter]

The $9.75 (Amazon 2-day free) FLUKE KILLER was delivered today. Tested on my DMMCheck Plus, all readings within spec, many spot on.

However, the small internal fuse was DOA.

From what I can read off the metal cap, it says: 0.5 Amp 250 volt. This fuse has a white body with NO markings on the cylinder.

Would it be safe to use one of my BM235 EEVBLOG DMM fuses, which are:
HV620 400mA 10kA 1000V HRC (6x32mm)

Or would it be best to try and find an exact match?

[joeqsmith]

The $9.75 (Amazon 2-day free) FLUKE KILLER was delivered today. Tested on my DMMCheck Plus, all readings within spec, many spot on.

However, the small internal fuse was DOA.

Seeing that it's dead anyway, please remove one of the end caps and see how it's constructed. 

[MacMeter]

Ceramic, no sand. Only Manual page that mentions fuses.

[Cliff Matthews]

So before you could verify accuracy, you had to replace the 600ma fuse?

Sand or not, at least the quench-gap distance is better than Joe's original Kasuntest.

[MacMeter]

So before you could verify accuracy, you had to replace the 600ma fuse?

Sand or not, at least the quench-gap distance is better than Joe's original Kasuntest.

The small fuse was only for the mA current, didn’t seem to effect the voltage or ohm tests. The 10a fuse is good, but the DMMCheck tester only does a 1 mA output. So my question on “safely” using a BM235 fuse instead remains?

[Cliff Matthews]

I take it then, you didn't spill the sand on the 10 amp fuse.. I wouldn't either, but I might have tested at 5a (for the hell of it).

[MacMeter]

I take it then, you didn't spill the sand on the 10 amp fuse.. I wouldn't either, but I might have tested at 5a (for the hell of it).

No, that fuse is good. My DMMCheck tester only puts out a 1 mA test signal, so I don’t have an easy way to test the 10a fuse side. So far I have never needed to use the current testing feature on any of my meters, at work I use a clamp-on meter to read large generator loads.

[malagas_on_fire]

Hi

Is there any commercial version of this Aneng, Autotool, Richmeters  (same chipset) with proper input protection ?
I

[Cliff Matthews]

Hi

Is there any commercial version of this Aneng, Autotool, Richmeters  (same chipset) with proper input protection ?
I

Maybe Joe can sell you one    But 14KV may be costly though  

[boffin]

Am I the only one that doesn't give a rats ass that it's 6000 count?   I can't remember when I last had to do anything to much more than +/- 2%

[bitseeker]

So my question on “safely” using a BM235 fuse instead remains?

An issue with using the BM235's 400mA, 1000V fuse in lieu of the original 500mA, 250V one is the potential for user error resulting in a blown fuse. However, since the front of the meter says that it's fused for 600mA , I suppose it's kind of moot. Otherwise, I don't see a safety issue, per se. The BM235's HRC fuse is otherwise much better than the hollow, mystery fuse that was included.

[Cliff Matthews]

Am I the only one that doesn't give a rats ass that it's 6000 count?   I can't remember when I last had to do anything to much more than +/- 2%

I rarely work at >60v, so always having features that accompany 10mV scaling is nice. IMO we can leave the ICL710x behind..

[MacMeter]

So my question on “safely” using a BM235 fuse instead remains?

An issue with using the BM235's 400mA, 1000V fuse in lieu of the original 500mA, 250V one is the potential for user error resulting in a blown fuse. However, since the front of the meter says that it's fused for 600mA , I suppose it's kind of moot. Otherwise, I don't see a safety issue, per se. The BM235's HRC fuse is otherwise much better than the hollow, mystery fuse that was included.

Thanks, that’s kind of what I was thinking. I installed the 400 mA fuse and using the 1 mA current test on the DMMCHECK Plus, and got a reading of only .33, that’s LOW. Just in case, today I have access to my Ragu meter, and it has the identical fuse (500 mA, 250v), put that in the meter, same LOW reading. My other meters read the correct 1 mA, so I suspect something is bad in this meter besides just the fuse, in the regards to the low current test circuit.

I could return it, but it’s only $9, and all other functions test properly. Since it can still accurately read volts, and hertz, my main use for this meter, I think rather then use the “under rated” BM235 fuse, I simply will NOT use any small fuse at all, and make a label on the meter, no one will be using this other then me, as it will be wall mounted inside a truck.

I’m assuming there is no apparent safety or functionality issues with leaving the small internal fuse holder unpopulated?

[malagas_on_fire]

The alternative is on the right side of the aneng meter, which is the fluke 101 meter, but then i would require a shunt for reading currents or a clamp, as advised by joesmith.

I have one and i kind like the chipset (currently borrowed), but internally it uses small fuses as seen on wall chargers, minimal input protectiorn And joesmith is not going for the production either , maybe for the development ..

[bitseeker]

I’m assuming there is no apparent safety or functionality issues with leaving the small internal fuse holder unpopulated?

I don't recall the exact board layout. If that fuse is only for the low-current inputs, then you just lose that current measuring functionality and the rest will continue working. However, test it to be sure what else might be affected.

[joeqsmith]

Thanks for looking at that ceramic, non-filled fuse.

See Fungus, they even exist in the wild!   

[MacMeter]

I’m assuming there is no apparent safety or functionality issues with leaving the small internal fuse holder unpopulated?

I don't recall the exact board layout. If that fuse is only for the low-current inputs, then you just lose that current measuring functionality and the rest will continue working. However, test it to be sure what else might be affected.

Thanks for the response, I have tested as many functions as I can think of, and all seems good. I don’t mind not having a mA test, I have other meters that are higher quality if and when I need to measure mA current. Rather then put in an under rated fuse, I’ll keep that fuse holder EMPTY.

[bitseeker]

If you want, you can get some of those Fluke jack covers and place one over the mA jack.

[MacMeter]

Thanks for looking at that ceramic, non-filled fuse.

See Fungus, they even exist in the wild!   

Yeah, one might think a ceramic tube would have some glass in them, but .....
Hope your lightning repairs are going well.

[MacMeter]

If you want, you can get some of those Fluke jack covers and place one over the mA jack.

While I appreciate the thought, after buying my BM-235 EEVBlog meter, my OCD got the better of me and I bought those fluke brand jack covers. I can’t recommend them to anyone, as even on a work Fluke meter they behave the same. Don’t go far enough into the jack hole, fall out way too easily, and thus super easy to drop and loss. Someone could make a few cents selling rubber sealing jack covers with a real banana jack on the end, to seal and stay put.