EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Beginners => Topic started by: Cliff Matthews on July 03, 2018, 08:17:52 pm
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PCB looks a bit Aneng-ish inside but it's all bigger (fuses, rubberized case, 9v battery). A bit sad we've come to comparing something at $9 with what Dave reviewed in #1007 at $25. At least his finger pokes won't tip this one over so easy?
*edit - Joe's test shows this bag of bolts is a dud. Better form factor than Aneng mini DMM, a nice try but no cigar..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvcUskI4kOw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvcUskI4kOw)
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Christ can't anyone spell hobbyist correctly before writing it in monitor-high letters?!?
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I'd trust it to 60vdc, maybe..
https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&srs=17509189011 (https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&srs=17509189011)
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The more I look, the more I want 4 of these as bench kickers. I've had 4 non-autoranging ICL-type 2000 count units forever..
Here's the obligatory tear-it-apart photos..
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A good starting tool on the electronics for the given price.
Nowadays they are all most auto-ranging and most likely they share the same chipset.
But my uni-t 50b with manual range is more faster in reading capacitors than the Aneng's ( i have one too) and it's 8 years old :P
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It looks relatively good for a cheap meter - though it does not look like the CAT rating is correct. More like 300 V CAT 2 or similar. Maybe there is a similar EU version with correct labeling.
At < $10 it is a surprise to see a labeled HRC fuse - though having a label does not say that much. Still better than the usual 5x20 glass fuse found in cheap meters, though the distances around the fuse holder are still a little small.
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About the fuses are they filled? You have glass fuses that can break 10x Nominal current and ceramic ( anti-flame) that can break thousands of Amps, suitable for inductive loads , in the 5x20mm package.
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About the fuses are they filled? You have glass fuses that can break 10x Nominal current and ceramic ( anti-flame) that can break thousands of Amps, suitable for inductive loads , in the 5x20mm package.
I doubt it, it's a newbie hobbyist low voltage DMM (at $9 expect nothing more than the Aneng 8000 series gives..)
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Good that they marked the 6x32 fuse as 250v on the PCB, if they'd just do that on the front I'd be happier, the fat 10A fuse is an interesting choice in such a cheap meter... I'd say that fuse is probably the most expensive part of the entire assembly, at least retail pricing, for a cheap meter like this, I think that using 5x20 250v ceramics is fine and cheap, as long as they would just mark on the front "250v" for the current ranges (as some cheap meters do, the Mastech MS8233E and rebadges thereof).
The plastic looks extremely cheap and shiny in the video. Not sold on that reflective labelling. It gives me the impression of a child's toy from the 80s.
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This PCB looks the AN860B but with re-worked fuse area. This could be good news since that was based on the 12000 count DTM0660 (isn't that a Hycon HY12P66 clone?). PCB clip from Artur's Lab: https://youtu.be/92Asdrcb_DE?t=624 (https://youtu.be/92Asdrcb_DE?t=624)
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The input is routed directly to the switch. None of them surge rated resistors, PTCs and MOVs to throw off your reading. Put a little gasoline on the LCD lens and let me know what happens. The free ones from HF have no trouble with this but so far every Aneng meter I have looked at was damaged by this. Crack open the fuses. Filled?
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Nice to see you back in the saddle Joe. After what you've been through, bloody hell is all I can say..
As for this new cheapo meter, it looks like volt/ohms goes through that 600ma fuse (on the PCB-bottom pic above). I'm sure there's plenty of room in this cheap case for a new video.. You could call it 20k or bust ha ha! (but did you buy a new camera?).
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This meters face plate is exactly the same as my $13.00 “Ragu 17B”, except mine does not have the temp feature, and my rubber boot cover is red. I would never need the amp setting, bought it to leave in road trailer, reading 1800 amp AC tractor generator. Just need to monitor volts and hertz. For $9, I’ll get this one as backup. I lost my 1st Ragu when I tried to make a 9v battery eliminator, and screwed something up, my bad, but at these prices they are practically disposable, and if stolen or broken, it won’t make you cry like losing a fluke.
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Fluke's likely not excited on that model number, but then again, they may not know Ragu is a spaghetti sauce either.. :-DD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtZa9Q6SKUQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtZa9Q6SKUQ)
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Nice to see you back in the saddle Joe. After what you've been through, bloody hell is all I can say..
As for this new cheapo meter, it looks like volt/ohms goes through that 600ma fuse (on the PCB-bottom pic above). I'm sure there's plenty of room in this cheap case for a new video.. You could call it 20k or bust ha ha! (but did you buy a new camera?).
I've seen a few meters where they route more than the current through the fuse. The problem I see with them is you may not be aware that you damaged the fuse and the meter reads zero volts. You may not have a fuse on-hand and cram some wire in there instead, then go to use the current. :-DD
We talk with the insurance company today. So far, I have no plans to file a claim as I suspect I can repair the big ticket items but I do want to make sure that if the lab were lost that it would be covered. Interesting thing I did find out is that if the items were damaged by what they call a surge is they limit the electronics. If it was damaged from lightning, there is no limit. But in many cases a surge is caused by lightning. :-//
I do like the camera Dave shows. I don't have a device in the house that will display 4K but the quality of the picture is impressive.
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Fluke's likely not excited on that model number, but then again, they may not know Ragu is a spaghetti sauce either.. :-DD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtZa9Q6SKUQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtZa9Q6SKUQ)
Unlike the RAGU, I am not able to find an online PDF manual for this meter. Guess I’ll have to make one from the included paper one. Two days to my door for $9, not bad.
OMG: If you watch this “review”, you’ll know why it should have been an audio only podcast....
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On a hunch, function should be the same as AN860B or Zotek VC17B, Amazon list specs:
Product description
Specifications:
Brand Name: Meterk
Color: Black
Material: PVC Plastic
Range Control: Auto Range
Screen Size: 65 * 40mm / 2.56 * 1.57in
DC Voltage Range: 600mV/6V/60V/600V/1000V
DC Voltage Resolution: 0.1mV/0.001V/0.01V/0.1V/1V
AC Voltage Range: 600mV/6V/60V/600V/750V
AC Voltage Resolution: 0.1mV/1mV/10mV/100mV/1V
DC Current Range: 600μA/6000μA/60mA/600mA/10A
DC Current Resolution: 0.1μA/0.001mA/0.01A/0.1A/1A
AC Current Range: 600μA/6000μA/60mA/600mA/10A
AC Current Resolution: 0.1μA/0.001mA/0.01A/0.1A/1A
Frequency Range: 10Hz/100Hz/1KHz/10KHz/100KHz/1MKHz/20MHz
Frequency Resolution: 0.01Hz/0.1Hz/1Hz/10Hz/100Hz/1KHz/10KHz
Resistance Range: 600Ω/6kΩ/60kΩ/600kΩ/6MΩ/60MΩ
Resistance Resolution: 0.1Ω/1Ω/10Ω/100Ω/1kΩ/10kΩ
Capacitance Range: 60nF/600nF/6μF/60μF/600μF/6mF
Capacitance Resolution: 10pF/100pF/1nF/10nF/100nF/1μF
Temperature Range: -20～1000℃/ -4～1832℉
Temperature Resolution: 1℃/1℉
Function: Hold Mode, Backlight, Auto Power off, NCV Test, Frequency Test, Temperature
Measurement, Continuity Buzzer Test with LCD, Over Load Protection,
Short-circuit Protection, Live Line Test, Diode Test
Sampling Time: about 3 times/second
NCV Detection: ≥2V rms
Power Supply: 1 * 9V NEDA1604/6F22 Battery (Included)
Operating Environment: 0～40°C(32-104°F)
Storage Environment: -20～60°C(-4-140°F)
Item Size: Approx. 184 * 90 * 46mm / 7.67 * 3.35 * 1.37in
Item Weight: 360g / 12.69oz (Battery Included)
Package List:
1 * Digital Multimeter
1 * Test Lead
1 * TP01 Thermocouple Sensor Probe
1 * Use Manual (English + French + German + Italy + Spanish)
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Thanks, I’ll have no trouble with it, almost identical to the Ragu, I just like to collect and file all my user manuals on my phone, in iBooks. Once I create my own PDF, if anyone wants a copy, PM me.
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OMG: If you watch this “review”, you’ll know why it should have been an audio only podcast....
Didn't have to get very far for a hint that something may be afoot.
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OMG: If you watch this “review”, you’ll know why it should have been an audio only podcast....
Didn't have to get very far for a hint that something may be afoot.
So what is afoot? IMO what seems demonstrable is the AN860B's PCB has an update, and it's now 1/3 the previous price under 2 off-branded logo's. The Amazon link and the 2 video's listed seem to prove it, however bad the YT content may be..
*Edit - Aneng's a mystery (if that's the original mfg.) it's also found as: Kasuntest, Zotek, Ragu, Meterk, Zeast, and BSIDE
Perhpas the only help we can give to budget newbies at present is, "keep checking, deals like this are often posted"
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Well, the chicken, for starters. :o
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Well, the chicken, for starters. :o
The trash bag in the planter? Does sort of resemble a chicken. Looks like he was doing a plumbing project.
Overall, I thought he did a fine job with the video. I didn't see any major problems like I was expecting. The only things I saw the could have been improved were:
Spends a fair amount of time mentioning that he is not going to show how to use it but he proceeds to do a fair job of it.
At 10:13, talks about current but there is no need to have a closed circuit to detect the voltage. Just may not have a firm understanding of the terms.
He does mention early on and then later the CAT III and CAT IV 600V rating. Does not seem concerned if it actually meets it or not.
At 11:57, mentions the "MHz one" where it's Hz. I wonder if it will read into the MHz.
I'm not sure why he wouldn't just say Fluke has a 17B+ model.
I watched a few of his other reviews and get the feeling he endorses everything he reviews even if he has little knowledge of the items. For example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJMvuxRQ7JI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJMvuxRQ7JI)
Personally, I like the reviews where people actually put the products through their paces, then tell me what the pros and cons are.
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My comment on the Ragu video, is based on expecting some motion in a “video”, there are so many LONGGGGG... sections in the 22 minute of just a static shot of the meter, and what basically becomes voice over. You guys covered the content well. Geez, even Joes videos of his test setup always has something going on, moving, or blowing up!
Oh, I never saw the CHICKEN till mentioned, now that’s GREAT stuff.
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My comment on the Ragu video, is based on expecting some motion in a “video”, there are so many LONGGGGG... sections in the 22 minute of just a static shot of the meter, and what basically becomes voice over. You guys covered the content well. Geez, even Joes videos of his test setup always has something going on, moving, or blowing up!
Oh, I never saw the CHICKEN till mentioned, now that’s GREAT stuff.
Oh, the dead time. Yes, I agree but it seems to be to norm with many meter reviews. People like to state their expert feelings about them. He talked about being an automotive AC specialist or something like that. I was not expecting him to have a solid understanding of the product from an electronics perspective or have a knowledge of the CAT ratings and what to look for. If he wants to continue to receive free goods, I don't think he can afford to make bad reviews.
I get comments about my videos being pedantic. Based on the view metrics, I think the sweet spot is 7 or 8 minutes. Exceed that and people stop watching. Good thing I am not in it for the money or fame. lol.
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@Joe
Your videos are obviously very specialized. And you fast forward for us when cycling through to recheck a meter after every potentially destructive test. Most online videos of any subject are just way too long. I suspect the main reason besides filmmaking ignorance, is the extra time and effort to EDIT them properly. And yes, experienced filmmakers can fall in love with their work, and not edit them down enough. Example:
When Marty Scorsese was hired to direct “The Wolf of Wall Street”, the contract stated the movie could NOT run over 3 hours. So Marty made it 2 hours, and 59 minutes! Decent movie, but most critics agree about 30 minutes too long.
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Based on the view metrics, I think the sweet spot is 7 or 8 minutes.
Yup, I definitely agree with that. I also prefer it if the results and conclusions of testing are in the video description along with any other technical info that might be interesting, keeping the video itself to the highlights: illustrating the test setup, showing the test procedure and so on. Videos are good for showing pictures and illustrations of things that are hard to describe in words, but text is better where words suffice.
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@Joe
Your videos are obviously very specialized. And you fast forward for us when cycling through to recheck a meter after every potentially destructive test. Most online videos of any subject are just way too long. I suspect the main reason besides filmmaking ignorance, is the extra time and effort to EDIT them properly. And yes, experienced filmmakers can fall in love with their work, and not edit them down enough. Example:
When Marty Scorsese was hired to direct “The Wolf of Wall Street”, the contract stated the movie could NOT run over 3 hours. So Marty made it 2 hours, and 59 minutes! Decent movie, but most critics agree about 30 minutes too long.
For an hour video, I would say I have on average about 8 hours of footage. After editing, I have my wife watch and if she falls asleep, I cut more out. :-DD Making the videos has been a good learning experience for me. I cringe at the early ones I made. I'm not a natural showman by any means.
Yup, I definitely agree with that. I also prefer it if the results and conclusions of testing are in the video description along with any other technical info that might be interesting, keeping the video itself to the highlights: illustrating the test setup, showing the test procedure and so on. Videos are good for showing pictures and illustrations of things that are hard to describe in words, but text is better where words suffice.
I keep the data in a spreadsheet for just that reason. There is really no need to even watch any of my videos. Just download the latest spreadsheet. What's a bit strange is I will have people write me and ask, so what do you think about such and such a meter. More often than not, it's not one that I have ran. So even with the spreadsheet, it's apparently too much to effort to read. Feedback where people want to be spoon fed and then demand I wipe their asses is common. As much as I seem to do wrong, it amazes me that it continues to grow.
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Yeah, editing is really key. Either cutting stuff out or compressing the time (e.g., when removing a gazillion screws to open a spectrum analyzer) makes a world of difference to the viewer. I have no problems watching Joe's vids. Keep up the good work!
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Christ can't anyone spell hobbyist correctly before writing it in monitor-high letters?!?
Looks correct to me?
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Christ can't anyone spell hobbyist correctly before writing it in monitor-high letters?!?
Looks correct to me?
Johnny come lately! ;)
I guess the YT poster swapped the embarrassing thumbnail. At least this Aneng wanna-be won't fall over so easy on the bench..
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The $9.75 (Amazon 2-day free) FLUKE KILLER was delivered today. Tested on my DMMCheck Plus, all readings within spec, many spot on.
However, the small internal fuse was DOA.
From what I can read off the metal cap, it says: 0.5 Amp 250 volt. This fuse has a white body with NO markings on the cylinder.
Would it be safe to use one of my BM235 EEVBLOG DMM fuses, which are:
HV620 400mA 10kA 1000V HRC (6x32mm)
Or would it be best to try and find an exact match?
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The $9.75 (Amazon 2-day free) FLUKE KILLER was delivered today. Tested on my DMMCheck Plus, all readings within spec, many spot on.
However, the small internal fuse was DOA.
Seeing that it's dead anyway, please remove one of the end caps and see how it's constructed.
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Ceramic, no sand. Only Manual page that mentions fuses.
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So before you could verify accuracy, you had to replace the 600ma fuse?
Sand or not, at least the quench-gap distance is better than Joe's original Kasuntest.
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So before you could verify accuracy, you had to replace the 600ma fuse?
Sand or not, at least the quench-gap distance is better than Joe's original Kasuntest.
The small fuse was only for the mA current, didn’t seem to effect the voltage or ohm tests. The 10a fuse is good, but the DMMCheck tester only does a 1 mA output. So my question on “safely” using a BM235 fuse instead remains?
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I take it then, you didn't spill the sand on the 10 amp fuse.. I wouldn't either, but I might have tested at 5a (for the hell of it).
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I take it then, you didn't spill the sand on the 10 amp fuse.. I wouldn't either, but I might have tested at 5a (for the hell of it).
No, that fuse is good. My DMMCheck tester only puts out a 1 mA test signal, so I don’t have an easy way to test the 10a fuse side. So far I have never needed to use the current testing feature on any of my meters, at work I use a clamp-on meter to read large generator loads.
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Hi
Is there any commercial version of this Aneng, Autotool, Richmeters (same chipset) with proper input protection ?
I :-//
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Hi
Is there any commercial version of this Aneng, Autotool, Richmeters (same chipset) with proper input protection ?
I :-//
Maybe Joe can sell you one ;) But 14KV may be costly though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEwLuiYX5cQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEwLuiYX5cQ) :-DD
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Am I the only one that doesn't give a rats ass that it's 6000 count? I can't remember when I last had to do anything to much more than +/- 2%
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So my question on “safely” using a BM235 fuse instead remains?
An issue with using the BM235's 400mA, 1000V fuse in lieu of the original 500mA, 250V one is the potential for user error resulting in a blown fuse. However, since the front of the meter says that it's fused for 600mA :o, I suppose it's kind of moot. Otherwise, I don't see a safety issue, per se. The BM235's HRC fuse is otherwise much better than the hollow, mystery fuse that was included.
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Am I the only one that doesn't give a rats ass that it's 6000 count? I can't remember when I last had to do anything to much more than +/- 2%
I rarely work at >60v, so always having features that accompany 10mV scaling is nice. IMO we can leave the ICL710x behind..
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So my question on “safely” using a BM235 fuse instead remains?
An issue with using the BM235's 400mA, 1000V fuse in lieu of the original 500mA, 250V one is the potential for user error resulting in a blown fuse. However, since the front of the meter says that it's fused for 600mA :o, I suppose it's kind of moot. Otherwise, I don't see a safety issue, per se. The BM235's HRC fuse is otherwise much better than the hollow, mystery fuse that was included.
Thanks, that’s kind of what I was thinking. I installed the 400 mA fuse and using the 1 mA current test on the DMMCHECK Plus, and got a reading of only .33, that’s LOW. Just in case, today I have access to my Ragu meter, and it has the identical fuse (500 mA, 250v), put that in the meter, same LOW reading. My other meters read the correct 1 mA, so I suspect something is bad in this meter besides just the fuse, in the regards to the low current test circuit.
I could return it, but it’s only $9, and all other functions test properly. Since it can still accurately read volts, and hertz, my main use for this meter, I think rather then use the “under rated” BM235 fuse, I simply will NOT use any small fuse at all, and make a label on the meter, no one will be using this other then me, as it will be wall mounted inside a truck.
I’m assuming there is no apparent safety or functionality issues with leaving the small internal fuse holder unpopulated?
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The alternative is on the right side of the aneng meter, which is the fluke 101 meter, but then i would require a shunt for reading currents or a clamp, as advised by joesmith.
I have one and i kind like the chipset (currently borrowed), but internally it uses small fuses as seen on wall chargers, minimal input protectiorn And joesmith is not going for the production either :P , maybe for the development ..
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I’m assuming there is no apparent safety or functionality issues with leaving the small internal fuse holder unpopulated?
I don't recall the exact board layout. If that fuse is only for the low-current inputs, then you just lose that current measuring functionality and the rest will continue working. However, test it to be sure what else might be affected.
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Thanks for looking at that ceramic, non-filled fuse.
See Fungus, they even exist in the wild! :-DD :-DD
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I’m assuming there is no apparent safety or functionality issues with leaving the small internal fuse holder unpopulated?
I don't recall the exact board layout. If that fuse is only for the low-current inputs, then you just lose that current measuring functionality and the rest will continue working. However, test it to be sure what else might be affected.
Thanks for the response, I have tested as many functions as I can think of, and all seems good. I don’t mind not having a mA test, I have other meters that are higher quality if and when I need to measure mA current. Rather then put in an under rated fuse, I’ll keep that fuse holder EMPTY.
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If you want, you can get some of those Fluke jack covers and place one over the mA jack. :)
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Thanks for looking at that ceramic, non-filled fuse.
See Fungus, they even exist in the wild! :-DD :-DD
Yeah, one might think a ceramic tube would have some glass in them, but .....
Hope your lightning repairs are going well.
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If you want, you can get some of those Fluke jack covers and place one over the mA jack. :)
While I appreciate the thought, after buying my BM-235 EEVBlog meter, my OCD got the better of me and I bought those fluke brand jack covers. I can’t recommend them to anyone, as even on a work Fluke meter they behave the same. Don’t go far enough into the jack hole, fall out way too easily, and thus super easy to drop and loss. Someone could make a few cents selling rubber sealing jack covers with a real banana jack on the end, to seal and stay put.
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Oh, interesting. Yours is the first time I've heard that they don't stay put.
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Oh, interesting. Yours is the first time I've heard that they don't stay put.
Probably because it’s almost embarrassing to buy a fluke product that is so overwhelmingly BAD. :)
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Thanks for looking at that ceramic, non-filled fuse.
See Fungus, they even exist in the wild! :-DD :-DD
Yeah, one might think a ceramic tube would have some glass in them, but .....
Hope your lightning repairs are going well.
Everything is back together and running except for the Anker USB hub that was damaged. Nothing I could do except order a replacement.
I think its because the voltage rating is so low and they are not needing a safety fuse for an uncertified meter. I tried to get Fungus to have a look inside of that cheap meter he picked up but I don't think he ever did. At least with the free HF meters, you know there is no fuse on the high current and the worst possible fuse on the low current.
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There are a lot of meters that have no fuse on the Amps range, for example the uni-t 50B. The mA range is fused and the voltage input, has a PTC, GDT, diodes, a fuse , hi-speed clamps.
Well for those use a fuse holder and proper fuse in series, say 10 Amps.
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I plan to run this meter at some point. It showed up but I have not made any time to play with it yet. If indeed the fuse is used for all of the functions, I may just jump it to run the normal tests. Or maybe just give into the fact it will fail like any $10 meter and try to improve it. :-// I have not had it out of the bag but it does look very nice for $10.
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Looking forward to it, Joe. We need a smiley with some sparks flying.
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I plan to run this meter at some point. It showed up but I have not made any time to play with it yet. If indeed the fuse is used for all of the functions, I may just jump it to run the normal tests. Or maybe just give into the fact it will fail like any $10 meter and try to improve it. :-// I have not had it out of the bag but it does look very nice for $10.
All the functions seem to work without the 500 mA fuse NOT in place other then being able to test current in the mA range. I did try both my BM235 400 mA fuse as well as swapping the same fuse from the Ragu meter which is basically the identical meter, with no temperature reading function. But since I’m getting a low inaccurate reading, I must assume that the one I received was damaged somehow and the bad fuse was just the indication. Not worth bothering to return it, as long as the rest of the functions work properly, and in all my tests on the DMMCHECK Plus tester, the readings are very accurate and within specs.
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This thread's multimeter, it ain't $9, this is a deal only in the USA.
I stopped shopping Amazon because of ridiculous prices, and differences in what they offer USA vs Canada.
Amazon USA (https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/) $CAD 13.16 = $US 9.97 plus $9.48 Shipping and Import fees to Canada.
Amazon Canada (https://www.amazon.ca/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/) $CAD 39.00 = $US 24.50 with free shipping.
Amazon Australia (https://www.amazon.com.au/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/) $AU 63.07 = $US 46.59 plus $15 shipping.
$49 for a USB RS-232 converter (https://www.amazon.ca/Serial-Converter-Featuring-Original-FT232RL/dp/B075N82CDL/) just paid $1.94 from eBay :-DD
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This thread's multimeter, it ain't $9, this is a deal only in the USA.
I stopped shopping Amazon because of ridiculous prices, and differences in what they offer USA vs Canada.
Amazon USA (https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/) $CAD 13.16 = $US 9.97 plus $9.48 Shipping and Import fees to Canada.
Amazon Canada (https://www.amazon.ca/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/) $CAD 39.00 = $US 24.50 with free shipping.
Amazon Australia (https://www.amazon.com.au/Meterk-Multimeter-Detector-Temperature-Continuity/dp/B0755BCCGV/) $AU 63.07 = $US 46.59 plus $15 shipping.
$49 for a USB RS-232 converter (https://www.amazon.ca/Serial-Converter-Featuring-Original-FT232RL/dp/B075N82CDL/) just paid $1.94 from eBay :-DD
So $20 shipped to Canada. $11.50 on EBay, did not calculate shipping, though many listings show free. Amazon Prime members get this one in two days, free delivery.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=Meterk+Digital+Multimeter+6000+Counts+True+RMS+Auto+Range+DMM&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=Meterk+Digital+Multimeter+6000+Counts+True+RMS+Auto+Range+DMM&_sacat=0)
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Amazon will sell the Meterk (weird name) for about 15usd shipped to Mexico. Why its more in Canada I dont know.
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I plan to run this meter at some point. It showed up but I have not made any time to play with it yet. If indeed the fuse is used for all of the functions, I may just jump it to run the normal tests. Or maybe just give into the fact it will fail like any $10 meter and try to improve it. :-// I have not had it out of the bag but it does look very nice for $10.
All the functions seem to work without the 500 mA fuse NOT in place other then being able to test current in the mA range. I did try both my BM235 400 mA fuse as well as swapping the same fuse from the Ragu meter which is basically the identical meter, with no temperature reading function. But since I’m getting a low inaccurate reading, I must assume that the one I received was damaged somehow and the bad fuse was just the indication. Not worth bothering to return it, as long as the rest of the functions work properly, and in all my tests on the DMMCHECK Plus tester, the readings are very accurate and within specs.
Normally, the free HF meters are fairly accurate. The last one I showed was off a fair amount but it's the new cheaper style with no adjustment pot. I don't think I have ever seen a meter that was not accurate out of the box. Sure, they may not power up... :-DD
Good to know about the fuse. I am confident the meter with the single PTC and clamp with no other limiting devices will do poorly like every ANENG meter I have looked at. This meter has a lot of room so really there was no excuse.
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Hey Joe, could you add a "tip-over usability comparison" between this meter and the small Aneng to your test? I recall Dave was not impressed with the AN8008 as it fell over every time his hand touched it (https://youtu.be/xdGQEVdxmQQ?t=238).
Since this meter is sold under several brand names, availability shouldn't be a problem and when Dave does another episode of "How To Setup An Electronics Lab For $300", I think swapping this meter for the UT136b ($25) may be a good choice.
"How To Setup An Electronics Lab For $300 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HicV3Z6XLFA)"
IMHO, the entry point may now be $250 with an RDtech bench supply, the newer soldering irons, signal gens and portable o-scope's. (edit: There's been much competition in 18-month's)
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sell by amazon itself , or sell on the amazon web site by someone - are different thingi
import some items in canada may include import dutes, + more expensive all in overall, (storage, electricity, workforce etc) more margin ... so yes ... it more expensive in overall ...
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good one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07D5RJQY7 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07D5RJQY7)
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That was definitely not the "Joe" intended.. |O
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That's the first meter I have seen specifically for twisted pairs. I doubt many people would have a use for such a meter.
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Or more "durable"...
Check out Durable MF-110A Analog-Multimeter Voltmeter Amperemeter Ohmmeter Handh POP.DE https://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-MF-110A-Analog-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Amperemeter-Ohmmeter-Handh-POP-DE/183324108941?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=xwcaJa (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-MF-110A-Analog-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Amperemeter-Ohmmeter-Handh-POP-DE/183324108941?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=xwcaJa)
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That's one tiny meter. 4 of these would get you the digital one being shown.
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The thread no longer shows something positive for newbies. Now it shows how they'll get shafted. Did you see that case? :-DD
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I saw 2k ohms per volt.
The original LoZ?
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Thats the meter long gone... Well forget the durable.
For the new to electronics, the supposed 9 dollar using low energy, will do the Job, but what about this meter that iluminates the proper jacks to be inserted the leads and has a nice rubber case:
Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter Res F2Y4 :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-AC-DC-Auto-Manual-Range-Digital-Multimeter-Meter-Res-F2Y4-/253168754668?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=Vkd75f (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-AC-DC-Auto-Manual-Range-Digital-Multimeter-Meter-Res-F2Y4-/253168754668?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=Vkd75f)
This way newer will get used to put the leads correctly and perhaps a better built quality product.
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That's one tiny meter.
That's not a tiny meter. THIS is a tiny meter. ;D
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/6000-count-dmms-(is-$9-a-new-newbie-low)/?action=dlattach;attach=477209;image)
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Aw so cute and tiny but a 12V battery?
I got pissed off and glued a 9V battery+holder to the back side :-DD
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That's not a tiny meter. THIS is a tiny meter. ;D
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/6000-count-dmms-(is-$9-a-new-newbie-low)/?action=dlattach;attach=477209;image)
:o ;D
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Problem I find with many cheap autorangers is that they produce a series of false readings before settling on the right one. Many of the false readings look believable which causes a lot of consternation and wasted time. Thus on a cheap meter I'd generally prefer manual range setting.
-How well does this one do in that respect?
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Normally, the free HF meters are fairly accurate. The last one I showed was off a fair amount but it's the new cheaper style with no adjustment pot. I don't think I have ever seen a meter that was not accurate out of the box. Sure, they may not power up... :-DD
You seem to have been lucky with the HF meters. I had 2 of them that I once brought to a training session. I had to measure a resistance in the 25-30R range for verification of correct part install. Both meters read into the hundreds of Ohms. I had to use someone else's meter to check. I now have an Aneng AN-8008 and 8009, the 8009 is in my toolbag and the 8008 is a backup kept in my company van. I have them as size is a big consideration. Both measure what I need almost equal to my HP-3466A meters. And, I haven't even modified them for better accuracy.
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Problem I find with many cheap autorangers is that they produce a series of false readings before settling on the right one. Many of the false readings look believable which causes a lot of consternation and wasted time. Thus on a cheap meter I'd generally prefer manual range setting.
-How well does this one do in that respect?
I guess we'll have to wait for Joe's analysis (though his lab might still be missing some gear for his usual panache).
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The input is routed directly to the switch. None of them surge rated resistors, PTCs and MOVs to throw off your reading. Put a little gasoline on the LCD lens and let me know what happens. The free ones from HF have no trouble with this but so far every Aneng meter I have looked at was damaged by this. Crack open the fuses. Filled?
Gasoline ? What you're testing with dipping your meter in gasoline ?
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The input is routed directly to the switch. None of them surge rated resistors, PTCs and MOVs to throw off your reading. Put a little gasoline on the LCD lens and let me know what happens. The free ones from HF have no trouble with this but so far every Aneng meter I have looked at was damaged by this. Crack open the fuses. Filled?
Gasoline ? What you're testing with dipping your meter in gasoline ?
Because I use a meter when I work on my engines and such. I use various chemicals and sometimes things get splashed or sprayed. When I check them I have been using the fuel I use (VP C16 and methanol). I have not sprayed any with break cleaner. ANENG meters have been the worse for this test. Most meters, even the free HF meter have had no problems with this.
Just to clarify, you wrote "dipping your meter" which is obviously not what I wrote or have done in these videos.
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Problem I find with many cheap autorangers is that they produce a series of false readings before settling on the right one. Many of the false readings look believable which causes a lot of consternation and wasted time. Thus on a cheap meter I'd generally prefer manual range setting.
-How well does this one do in that respect?
I guess we'll have to wait for Joe's analysis (though his lab might still be missing some gear for his usual panache).
All the gear is back together and running fine.
A few people here have this meter as well that could easily check it. Mines still in the box awaiting for me to complete another home project that's in the works.
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Hi there.
So there will be a test of this meter for robustness ? It will stay at the same level as one of the bigger KaSUNtest / Aneng / Richmeters ( A bunch of brands...) that was bigger KT6000 / ANENG AN860B maybe?
Do it survive a controlled pulse from flyswatter? I have a new flyswatter that is rechargeable but has similar voltage (1989 Volts ) as the AA operated.
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I lost touch if joeqsmith is ranking at different (increasing) levels or just hits them at their fake ratings, overvoltage Cat. xxx test voltages.
It looks like the same crappy PCB layout, kindergarden-grade, as all the low cost chinese DMM's have- bad spacings and traces smoke and burn when overvoltages come in.
If it isn't arcing to the battery holder, it's arcing on the mile long run up to the PTC, or at the fuse holder clips, or the rotary switch etc. :palm:
The clamp diodes look better, it's a single TVS on the ANENG 8008/8009 but here it's a 5-diode bridge.
I also don't see the discrete ICL8069 Vref IC, so the on-chip one is used and I wonder how it performs.
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I lost touch if joeqsmith is ranking at different (increasing) levels or just hits them at their fake ratings, overvoltage Cat. xxx test voltages.
It looks like the same crappy PCB layout, kindergarden-grade, as all the low cost chinese DMM's have- bad spacings and traces smoke and burn when overvoltages come in.
If it isn't arcing to the battery holder, it's arcing on the mile long run up to the PTC, or at the fuse holder clips, or the rotary switch etc. :palm:
The clamp diodes look better, it's a single TVS on the ANENG 8008/8009 but here it's a 5-diode bridge.
I also don't see the discrete ICL8069 Vref IC, so the on-chip one is used and I wonder how it performs.
Still stepped using the same levels until damaged for any new meters.
8008 like the ZT102 uses a 2 diode clamp in series with a PTC. There is a TVS for the current input. From the pictures I saw, this meter appears the same.
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Hi there.
So there will be a test of this meter for robustness ? It will stay at the same level as one of the bigger KaSUNtest / Aneng / Richmeters ( A bunch of brands...) that was bigger KT6000 / ANENG AN860B maybe?
Do it survive a controlled pulse from flyswatter? I have a new flyswatter that is rechargeable but has similar voltage (1989 Volts ) as the AA operated.
Please ignore the flyswatter idea unless using a proper High Voltage probe, since i have "zapped" one meter years ago..
Well about the construction of the meter is what you get for the money... It was only the bare minimal protection and looks like a CAT II 300V
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See Joe's review here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvcUskI4kOw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvcUskI4kOw)
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Joe Lightning STRIKES again!!!
Who else creates a 50 minute video for a $10 meter, including “slow motion” action sequence? Awesome job Joe, learned a lot. THANKS!!!
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That was fun. I like the "leash" test (how easily the DMM is dragged around or upset by its leads).
The AC (and its companion Hz in the same position) mode behavior seems to be a strict interpretation of AC (having no polarity change is DC). I don't recall other meters acting like that. Interesting.
The inability for DC mode to measure the DC offset of an AC+DC signal is weird.
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That was fun. I like the "leash" test (how easily the DMM is dragged around or upset by its leads).
The AC (and its companion Hz in the same position) mode behavior seems to be a strict interpretation of AC (having no polarity change is DC). I don't recall other meters acting like that. Interesting.
The inability for DC mode to measure the DC offset of an AC+DC signal is weird.
So far you are the closest. I was expecting at least one person to comment on how well that thing would oscillate. :-DD Cliff was asking about the tip over and IMO, its pretty subjective to just tip them. What I showed is really what I have happen with the smaller, light weight meters. On the flip side, I would not want to drag the larger/heavier meters into the field.
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Yep, right tool for the job, etc. It's a useful and quick test for use case compatibility.
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Terrible, ACV is useless, probably AC current too. Dangerous.
HT7133 voltage regulator is not rated for reverse-battery :( so that will kill it.
These Hycon chips are OTP so they must be dumping product with the student grade firmware, under the oddball Me twerk name :-DD
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I was expecting at least one person to comment on how well that thing would oscillate. :-DD
It was uncanny how well tuned its enclosure was to your mat. They certainly worked well together. :-DD
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I was expecting at least one person to comment on how well that thing would oscillate. :-DD
It was uncanny how well tuned its enclosure was to your mat. They certainly worked well together. :-DD
Discovered it by accident. I heard something vibrating and then noticed it was the meter. That's a first for me. :-DD
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Terrible, ACV is useless, probably AC current too. Dangerous.
HT7133 voltage regulator is not rated for reverse-battery :( so that will kill it.
These Hycon chips are OTP so they must be dumping product with the student grade firmware, under the oddball Me twerk name :-DD
When I first saw that name through the wrapper, I could not make out the lettering. Then I was thinking, how do they want that pronounced. Someone posted "ME TERK". I wonder if it's "METER K". Someone in marketing had fun thinking that one up.