Anything to salvage here?

[scolecite]

Hi I'm very new to electronics and this was salvaged from a UPS system. I also saw it was hole through, so Im hoping there is something I can salvage.

1. Is there anything dangerous that I should be aware of. (I have careful with it so far, Im not gonna take any chances)
2. If you could tell me what you would take off this board I would appreciate it?

The two big brown caps say 50V 1000uf. If you have any questions please ask!

Thanks!

[NiHaoMike]

That looks like the board out of an old UPS that used a ferroresonant transformer. (The new ones use PWM to generate sine waves.) There are no large high voltage capacitors on the board, unlike the newer ones. (There might be a large high voltage capacitor connected to the transformer, just check for voltage using a multimeter before handling.)

As for parts to salvage, the relays and power MOSFETs can be very useful. The ferroresonant transformer itself, if you still have it, can be reused if you can figure out the windings. And the board can be used for soldering/desoldering practice. (Indeed, anything that is not bad can be salvaged. It's just that salvaging small resistors isn't worth the time unless you're going to practice desoldering.)

[Mechatrommer]

the many legged bugs on there look expensive

[Psi]

• all the mosfets
• relays, looks like one black one and maybe 3 blue ones
• those two 40A fuses
• db9 connector
• red led
• heatsinks
• little black speaker/beeper bottom right

-

[arcom]

In addition to above mentioned parts I would add:

• all TO-220 devices even if they aren't MOSFETs
• two bigger brown caps
• two smaller black caps above 40A fuses
• brown block cap on the left side (above black relay) and coil above the cap
• 4-pin connector if you have a male socket with a cable on it

As for the 40-pin bug it looks like a micro from Philips/NXP by the looks of the logo so maybe it can be reflashed.

[Mr J]

I made my old UPS into a nice bench top triple power supply. Do you have the big transformer, that came in it?

Check out this video as well http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/UPS/UPS.htm

[Mr J]

here is the schematic

[Mechatrommer]

Check out this video as well http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/UPS/UPS.htm

scrapped ups circuit due to dead battery?
recharging battery without any sensory? screwing the batt?

[Mr J]

Check out this video as well http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/UPS/UPS.htm

scrapped ups circuit due to dead battery?
recharging battery without any sensory? screwing the batt?

Yep I know, I had the same thing happen to me the battery was dead and it cost more to get a new battery, shipping and time than to buy a whole new UPS at the corner office supply company. The only thing in the video, he didn't specify a voltage. As long as your at the float voltage and about C/3 should be fine for Sealed Lead Acid, Nicads or rechargeable alkaline only, so for this circuit with a 7 ohm resistor (I thought the fuse idea was novel) something around 500mAH (C/3) or 1AH (C/6) battery would fit well for this trickle charger application. For more info please check out http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM317.pdf page 18 current regulator application. I would also recommend using a regulated power supply to power this circuit, keep the voltage at a constant level.

Also if you need to charge another type of chemistry battery like Lithium ion use a proper charging IC like a MAX8600A, the one in the video I would only use for Sealed Lead Acid, Nicads or rechargeable alkaline.

[tyblu]

To tell you the truth, if you're new to electronics, try to desolder everything on the board and salvage whatever you can. It's decent practice for soldering, you get free parts, and you also get to learn what different parts do. ("What's a varistor? A MOV!?")

[gushh]

To tell you the truth, if you're new to electronics, try to desolder everything on the board and salvage whatever you can. It's decent practice for soldering, you get free parts, and you also get to learn what different parts do. ("What's a varistor? A MOV!?")

Just make sure you're working on a well ventilated area, your health is worth much more than any component you may find in that board.

As a side-note I agree with re-purposing of components or boards, you don't have to be a beginner or a professional for that matter; it's about recycling (the real recycling, none of that "let's separate the paper from the plastic" nonsense they've got going on in some countries where it all ends up in the same landfill).

[scolecite]

Thanks guys! I am new so I need as much practice as I can get. Now though thanks to you guys, I know whats probably best to try and save, vs what is more "desolder practice"

Can you guys give any advice on the chips? Ive only messed around with a 555 timer chips. And I programmed a ATmega168 in the Nerdkits kit.

The big chip is a Philips P87C51FB-4N. Logic Function Number:87C51; Memory Size:256 B; Memory Type:RAM; Microprocessor/Controller Features:16000 bytes OTP PROM; No. of Bits:8

ADC0848CCN - 8-Bit uP Compatible A/D Converters with Multiplexer Options - National Semiconductor

UEAV0421

360-2040B

360-2002B

LM324AN Low Power Quad Operational Amplifier

4N25-X009 Optocouplers

Anything cool here???

[alm]

My $0.02:

The big chip is a Philips P87C51FB-4N. Logic Function Number:87C51; Memory Size:256 B; Memory Type:RAM; Microprocessor/Controller Features:16000 bytes OTP PROM; No. of Bits:8

This is a 8051-type micro controller (like an ATmega168). OTP means one time programmable (like a CD-R), so you can't reprogram it like a modern micro with flash. Even if you could, you would need to have tools like a programmer. Probably useless, except for something like solder practice.

ADC0848CCN - 8-Bit uP Compatible A/D Converters with Multiplexer Options - National Semiconductor

Low end 8-channel analog to digital converter. Looks like a parallel bus, not great for interfacing with modern MCU's that lack an external memory interface, but usable. You could use it if you need more analog inputs than your MCU has available, but have plenty of spare digital pins. Buying a MCU with enough inputs is usually the cheaper solution, though.

LM324AN Low Power Quad Operational Amplifier

Popular quad jellybean op-amp, quite versatile, but pretty cheap.

4N25-X009 Optocouplers

Optocouplers are used when you need galvanic separation, for example in switching power supplies, where the secondary side should be floating relative to the mains, but you want to switch the MOSFET on the mains side.

[DJPhil]

To tell you the truth, if you're new to electronics, try to desolder everything on the board and salvage whatever you can. It's decent practice for soldering, you get free parts, and you also get to learn what different parts do. ("What's a varistor? A MOV!?")

I strongly approve of this message!
If you're just starting I'd recommend buying a couple types of solder wick and at least one solder sucker. Try out as much as you can to see what works best for you.
Plated through hole can be very difficult to desolder, for easier stuff to start with raid a thrift store for something that's more than twenty years old. Older single sided through hole stuff is much easier by comparison with low end tools, i.e. no vacuum desoldering system.

[Simon]

the simple answer is what do you want ? I used to completely strip boards when I could not get parts for love or money. only take off what you need. The resistors and caps are cheap, anything like transistors may be useful.

[NiHaoMike]

I remember reading that OTP 8051s can be set to run code from external ROM.

[Zero999]

X-rays can be used to erase so-called OTP devices so if you know a doctor at the local hospital very well they may be able to help you.

[DavidDLC]

Use the next technique to desolder the stuff !!!

I like it"

http://blog.rhysgoodwin.com/electronics/electronic-component-salvage/

[DJPhil]

Use the next technique to desolder the stuff !!!

I like it"

http://blog.rhysgoodwin.com/electronics/electronic-component-salvage/

This works well when I've tried it, just two things I'd add.

* The mask is a good idea. When all the solder melts at once there's sometimes a big release of flux smoke and burning dust. If in doubt, I'd go outdoors.

* Solder will splash all over the place, way more and way farther than I expected the first time. Be ready for this! It wasn't much of a safety hazard for me, but it did get tracked inside all over the carpet after being spritzed on the concrete outside.

[ElektroQuark]

I use this method. Just shake the board in a big cardboard box, so the solder can run over the place.

[squeezee]

I basically use this method. Have the pcb in a vise, heating the back side and pulling the components with a pair of pliers or popping/flicking things off with angled tweezers. Although i'll still give a board a good whack on occasion to send things flying.

Regardless of how you do it, it's a good idea to wear safety glasses/goggles, as you will eventually find solder flying at your face.

[Murphy]

Solder popper works awesome if you heat from the component side of the board to keep the iron out of the way.

[Lance]

Someone has likely suggested this already, but try and grab heat sinks wherever you can. I have a bin full of various heat sinks that I've pulled off of stuff, and it's incredibly handy to have around.