I had never checked a cap before. After trying it, then posting my question, then Googling the process, it seems that checking caps with a mm is a joke. Best I can tell from Googling- you need an ESR. And they're pretty expensive. For the time being I'll assume that cap checking is beyond the scope of my beginner experiments. I'll replace the ones that are leaking goo or have some other obvious problem and assume that all others are working properly.
PS: If what I have stated is true- cap testing as a mm feature should probably be given little value in reviews.