Beginner, what multimeter would you guys recommend? Budget = $50 to $100

[sammyhwang]

As topic suggests, around $50 to $100.

What kind of meter would you guys recommend?

Im aiming to use this for a few years then get a nice fluke one

[Skimask]

Really?

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ideal-uei-uni-t-part-1of2/

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ideal-uei-uni-t-part-2of2/

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/06/04/eevblog-91-50-multimeter-shootout/

Do much looking around did ya?

[sammyhwang]

Yeah, but what kind of meter would you suggest for a beginner?

[Wytnucls]

Choices depend a lot on which country you live in. Also, you need to spell out what it will be used for.

[SLJ]

The suggestion is you watch the videos and make your own decision.

If you want someone to tell you then we would really know exactly what you are planning to do with it.

If you are just looking for a basic cheap meter for low voltage DC then get one of the UNI-T DMMs from Frankie.  They are around $55 I think and you can hook them up to a computer.

If you are working with mains voltages and higher then I recommend starting with this one for under $100 
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/amprobe/multimeters/am-270.htm

Would also help to know where you are.

Everyone here has their own preferences. Again, I suggest you watch the videos.

[MrAureliusR]

Yeah, this question has been answered like a million times on here already. If you do a quick search in the forum, you'll find some. That "Search" button up top is your friend. Use it!

[Lightages]

As Wytnucls has already said, it depends on where you are and what you want to so with a mulitmeter.

Read this: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/

and this: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/a-list-of-recommended-multimeters/

and do a search for more information on these forums, mjlorton.com forums, youtube, etc...

I would agree with the short answer already given if you are in the US, the AM-270.

[sammyhwang]

I am thinking of getting a EX330. Looks rugged and have the features I need.

UNI-T ones are good and they sell those at my local shop. PC connection is sort of useless though. the UNI-T ones don't look like they are well built and look like their gonna break from a fall.

Looking for meters with uA and mA. Ones with Bar charts will probs be best.

Anyone have a UNI-T multimeter? Are they any good?

[rolycat]

As topic suggests, around $50 to $100.

What kind of meter would you guys recommend?

Im aiming to use this for a few years then get a nice fluke one

You could always get a nice Fluke one.

For example, the Fluke 27 is beautifully built, accurate, reliable, bomb-proof and frequently available on eBay for $60 or less. It has uA, mA and a bar graph - Dave did a review in EEVBlog #372. You can even use it to measure capacitance - there's no range, but the manual details how to obtain a rough value.

And whatever you go for, get two. Highly recommended.

[sammyhwang]

Thanks! I will probs get the Fluke 27 and a mid to low price extech one for current.

[PA4TIM]

Anyone have a UNI-T multimeter? Are they any good?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/search2/ over 600 posts over uni-t so I think you can find the answer there.

[Wytnucls]

In general, Uni-T meters are pretty good value for money, if you're not too concerned with input protection.

[Stonent]

True beginners I wouldn't necessarily recommend they spend much at all on a meter. That way if they break it they don't lose the money. Now if you are going to be working with higher voltages, you might want something with some more safety.

Keep in mind, I'm not a professional electronics guy, I just do it for fun.

[AndersAnd]

Get one with True RMS.

[PA4TIM]

TRMS is over rated in this price catagory. Look at bandwidth and crestfactor if it is also usefull. Many users have no clue about TRMS and think if my meter can do it, it is fine.

For pure sinewave without a DC offset most AC modes will do but when you want to measure other waveforms that even can have have DC offset you need a DC+AC TRMS meter or measure AC and DC separate and do the math yourself.

And those are very expemsive. Only my solartron 7,5 digit , Prema 7,5 digit and my Agilent DMM has that mode.

I made my own TRMS AC+DC converter. It has a 500 kHz bandwidth and it still measures a 0.3% dutycycle correct. Even my 1 MHz bandwidth Prema has problems with that.

The argument that a beginner better buys a cheap meter because he can kill it is nonsens. An experienced tech has a smaller change on killing a meter and knows when the meter is probably lying so he could use a cheap meter. A starter must have a sturdy meter that does not die if he makes a mistake because he will make more mistakes. That is just an argument to defend the reason why someone does not want or can spend the money. And that is no problem but then just say that instead of makinig up reasons to defend a cheap meter.

[BravoV]

For pure sinewave without a DC offset most AC modes will do but when you want to measure other waveforms that even can have have DC offset you need a DC+AC TRMS meter or measure AC and DC separate and do the math yourself.

And those are very expemsive. Only my solartron 7,5 digit , Prema 7,5 digit and my Agilent DMM has that mode.

No need to buy those silly expensive meters, Fluke handheld 280 series can do with cheaper price.

Unless you can get those used & cheap. We're not talking volt nut's meter, are we ?

Examples ..

[Clint]

Get the best Fluke you can afford, your meter will stay with you for years

[BravoV]

Get the best Fluke you can afford, your meter will stay with you for years

Used yes, new, don't think so looking at the budget.

[JOERGG]

I recommend Martins "Multimeter reviews, buyers guide and comparisons" for a beginner.

https://www.youtube.com/user/mjlorton

He reviewed the UT61E

[GreyWoolfe]

I go with rolycat.  I am waiting on arrival of a Fluke 27FM.  I got it with case, leads and HV probe for $75.00USD shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Closeout-Fluke-27-FM-Digital-Multimeter-w-80K-High-Voltage-Probe-Leads-more-/231090897977?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ce174439

These are all government surplus.  I bought it mainly for the HV probe.  The way I see it, I bought the probe and got the meter free.  Not sure where you live.  You didn't mark country of origin.  If you are overseas, shipping may take it over your $100 limit

Tom, NW0LF

[Lightages]

As has been said before, the Amprobe AM-270. It is built well, accurate, and safe. It is within the budget and won't have possible problems with quality control like the Extech EX series and is better than the Uni-Ts for input protection. It's biggest fault is the horrible back light.
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/amprobe/multimeters/am-270.htm

[hgg]

Hi,

I have the UNI-T UT61E and its an excellent multimeter for the price.
The only negatives I found are that it overshoots sometimes in the beginning of the measurement,
and that instead of having a safer A/mA/uA sequence, the switch starts from uA/mA/A...  Apart from
that, excellent resolution, descent accuracy and very sturdy construction.

My suggestion is to buy a cheap one in the beginning and by working with it you will see exactly
what you really need from a multimeter.  Then you will buy a higher quality one and with all
the features that you know you need.  At the end of the day you will need at least two multimeters
anyway.

[AndersAnd]

Buy a relatively cheap one and save your next money for an oscilloscope instead of spending them on a more expensive multimeter. Having an oscilloscope is much more important than having an expensive Fluke DMM or similar for designing and repairing electronic circuits. That is if you don't already have an oscilloscope?
It's best to take most voltage measurements with an oscilloscope instead of a DMM, so you can actually see what the signal looks like. With a multimeter you have no idea what the signal looks like, e.g. what kind of ripple there is on a DC supply or if the sawtooth signal is actually a sawtooth and what frequency etc.

[BeerCannon]

I have an Extech EX430, which is a slight upgrade from the EX330.  It is a true RMS meter (if you're working with AC, this is a nice feature).  It is auto (or manual) ranging, tests voltage/current/resistance/capacitance/frequency/duty cycle/diode test/continuity and also comes with a temperature probe, and it sells most places for $90 US or even less.

I've had it for about 5 months now and it's been a great tool.  Of course, you probably can't go wrong with a Fluke.. but this EX430 is worthy of consideration.

http://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=48&prodid=272

[John Coloccia]

Personally, I like the BK Precision 2709B.  I would dismiss a lot of other meters because of their abysmal continuity test performance.  I like my Fluke, but BK is a lot of bang for your buck in my opinon.