Beginner, what multimeter would you guys recommend? Budget = $50 to $100

[sammyhwang]

As topic suggests, around $50 to $100.

What kind of meter would you guys recommend?

Im aiming to use this for a few years then get a nice fluke one

[Skimask]

Really?

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ideal-uei-uni-t-part-1of2/

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ideal-uei-uni-t-part-2of2/

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/06/04/eevblog-91-50-multimeter-shootout/

Do much looking around did ya?

[sammyhwang]

Yeah, but what kind of meter would you suggest for a beginner?

[Wytnucls]

Choices depend a lot on which country you live in. Also, you need to spell out what it will be used for.

[SLJ]

The suggestion is you watch the videos and make your own decision.

If you want someone to tell you then we would really know exactly what you are planning to do with it.

If you are just looking for a basic cheap meter for low voltage DC then get one of the UNI-T DMMs from Frankie.  They are around $55 I think and you can hook them up to a computer.

If you are working with mains voltages and higher then I recommend starting with this one for under $100 
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/amprobe/multimeters/am-270.htm

Would also help to know where you are.

Everyone here has their own preferences. Again, I suggest you watch the videos.

[MrAureliusR]

Yeah, this question has been answered like a million times on here already. If you do a quick search in the forum, you'll find some. That "Search" button up top is your friend. Use it!

[Lightages]

As Wytnucls has already said, it depends on where you are and what you want to so with a mulitmeter.

Read this: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/

and this: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/a-list-of-recommended-multimeters/

and do a search for more information on these forums, mjlorton.com forums, youtube, etc...

I would agree with the short answer already given if you are in the US, the AM-270.

[sammyhwang]

I am thinking of getting a EX330. Looks rugged and have the features I need.

UNI-T ones are good and they sell those at my local shop. PC connection is sort of useless though. the UNI-T ones don't look like they are well built and look like their gonna break from a fall.

Looking for meters with uA and mA. Ones with Bar charts will probs be best.

Anyone have a UNI-T multimeter? Are they any good?

[rolycat]

As topic suggests, around $50 to $100.

What kind of meter would you guys recommend?

Im aiming to use this for a few years then get a nice fluke one

You could always get a nice Fluke one.

For example, the Fluke 27 is beautifully built, accurate, reliable, bomb-proof and frequently available on eBay for $60 or less. It has uA, mA and a bar graph - Dave did a review in EEVBlog #372. You can even use it to measure capacitance - there's no range, but the manual details how to obtain a rough value.

And whatever you go for, get two. Highly recommended.

[sammyhwang]

Thanks! I will probs get the Fluke 27 and a mid to low price extech one for current.

[PA4TIM]

Anyone have a UNI-T multimeter? Are they any good?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/search2/ over 600 posts over uni-t so I think you can find the answer there.

[Wytnucls]

In general, Uni-T meters are pretty good value for money, if you're not too concerned with input protection.

[Stonent]

True beginners I wouldn't necessarily recommend they spend much at all on a meter. That way if they break it they don't lose the money. Now if you are going to be working with higher voltages, you might want something with some more safety.

Keep in mind, I'm not a professional electronics guy, I just do it for fun.

[AndersAnd]

Get one with True RMS.

[PA4TIM]

TRMS is over rated in this price catagory. Look at bandwidth and crestfactor if it is also usefull. Many users have no clue about TRMS and think if my meter can do it, it is fine.

For pure sinewave without a DC offset most AC modes will do but when you want to measure other waveforms that even can have have DC offset you need a DC+AC TRMS meter or measure AC and DC separate and do the math yourself.

And those are very expemsive. Only my solartron 7,5 digit , Prema 7,5 digit and my Agilent DMM has that mode.

I made my own TRMS AC+DC converter. It has a 500 kHz bandwidth and it still measures a 0.3% dutycycle correct. Even my 1 MHz bandwidth Prema has problems with that.

The argument that a beginner better buys a cheap meter because he can kill it is nonsens. An experienced tech has a smaller change on killing a meter and knows when the meter is probably lying so he could use a cheap meter. A starter must have a sturdy meter that does not die if he makes a mistake because he will make more mistakes. That is just an argument to defend the reason why someone does not want or can spend the money. And that is no problem but then just say that instead of makinig up reasons to defend a cheap meter.

[BravoV]

For pure sinewave without a DC offset most AC modes will do but when you want to measure other waveforms that even can have have DC offset you need a DC+AC TRMS meter or measure AC and DC separate and do the math yourself.

And those are very expemsive. Only my solartron 7,5 digit , Prema 7,5 digit and my Agilent DMM has that mode.

No need to buy those silly expensive meters, Fluke handheld 280 series can do with cheaper price.

Unless you can get those used & cheap. We're not talking volt nut's meter, are we ?

Examples ..

[Clint]

Get the best Fluke you can afford, your meter will stay with you for years

[BravoV]

Get the best Fluke you can afford, your meter will stay with you for years

Used yes, new, don't think so looking at the budget.

[JOERGG]

I recommend Martins "Multimeter reviews, buyers guide and comparisons" for a beginner.

https://www.youtube.com/user/mjlorton

He reviewed the UT61E

[GreyWoolfe]

I go with rolycat.  I am waiting on arrival of a Fluke 27FM.  I got it with case, leads and HV probe for $75.00USD shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Closeout-Fluke-27-FM-Digital-Multimeter-w-80K-High-Voltage-Probe-Leads-more-/231090897977?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ce174439

These are all government surplus.  I bought it mainly for the HV probe.  The way I see it, I bought the probe and got the meter free.  Not sure where you live.  You didn't mark country of origin.  If you are overseas, shipping may take it over your $100 limit

Tom, NW0LF

[Lightages]

As has been said before, the Amprobe AM-270. It is built well, accurate, and safe. It is within the budget and won't have possible problems with quality control like the Extech EX series and is better than the Uni-Ts for input protection. It's biggest fault is the horrible back light.
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/amprobe/multimeters/am-270.htm

[hgg]

Hi,

I have the UNI-T UT61E and its an excellent multimeter for the price.
The only negatives I found are that it overshoots sometimes in the beginning of the measurement,
and that instead of having a safer A/mA/uA sequence, the switch starts from uA/mA/A...  Apart from
that, excellent resolution, descent accuracy and very sturdy construction.

My suggestion is to buy a cheap one in the beginning and by working with it you will see exactly
what you really need from a multimeter.  Then you will buy a higher quality one and with all
the features that you know you need.  At the end of the day you will need at least two multimeters
anyway.

[AndersAnd]

Buy a relatively cheap one and save your next money for an oscilloscope instead of spending them on a more expensive multimeter. Having an oscilloscope is much more important than having an expensive Fluke DMM or similar for designing and repairing electronic circuits. That is if you don't already have an oscilloscope?
It's best to take most voltage measurements with an oscilloscope instead of a DMM, so you can actually see what the signal looks like. With a multimeter you have no idea what the signal looks like, e.g. what kind of ripple there is on a DC supply or if the sawtooth signal is actually a sawtooth and what frequency etc.

[BeerCannon]

I have an Extech EX430, which is a slight upgrade from the EX330.  It is a true RMS meter (if you're working with AC, this is a nice feature).  It is auto (or manual) ranging, tests voltage/current/resistance/capacitance/frequency/duty cycle/diode test/continuity and also comes with a temperature probe, and it sells most places for $90 US or even less.

I've had it for about 5 months now and it's been a great tool.  Of course, you probably can't go wrong with a Fluke.. but this EX430 is worthy of consideration.

http://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=48&prodid=272

[John Coloccia]

Personally, I like the BK Precision 2709B.  I would dismiss a lot of other meters because of their abysmal continuity test performance.  I like my Fluke, but BK is a lot of bang for your buck in my opinon.

[AndersAnd]

[GreyWoolfe]

As a followup to my earlier post, I just received my Fluke 27FM.  For $65USD plus $10 shipping, I really got a deal.  The meter has a calibration label that expired in March of 2013, so I would bet the accuracy is going to be pretty good.  This meter is built like a brick house.  It is large and heavy and you could probably kill someone with it using it as a blunt force instrument.  The HV probe hardly looks used.  The meter functions perfectly and I might consider getting another.  For the price, it can't be beat.

Tom, NW0LF

[sammyhwang]

After looking for a while I decided to settle for the UNI-T 61E.

Reasons:

- Not bad quality (Not top quality either though)
- Uses a 9V battery... BUT. The unit stops functioning at 2V! Super/Hybridcaps anyone?
- 5 Digits and nice accuracy
- Bar graph
- PC connection

All that plus what you normally expect.

Staggering 50$!
How did they do this? o.o


Brand isn't exactly top brand. But pretty safe.  CAT4 is 600V   CAT 3 is 1000V

I probs will be using for CAT1 and some CAT2. So no worries. Voltage Input protection inside is very basic but then again, I'll be using it for CAT 1 to 2.

Does have HRC fuses which is nice.

[Lightages]

The UT61E has HRC fuses? Since when? The German version does but they also down rated the meter's CAT rating at the same time!

[simpson]

I would suggest getting two meters: a used Fluke for the basic VOA measurements plus the best Chinese meter you can afford that has the other bells & whistles like, capacitance, Frequency, temperature, etc

[rolycat]

The UT61E has HRC fuses? Since when? The German version does but they also down rated the meter's CAT rating at the same time!

The UT61E reviewed by Martin Lorton was fitted with BS1362 fuses rated for 240V AC. These are cheap sand-filled ceramic fuses commonly used in the UK for mains plugs, and as such are technically HRC.

After looking for a while I decided to settle for the UNI-T 61E.

Brand isn't exactly top brand. But pretty safe.  CAT4 is 600V   CAT 3 is 1000V

Those ratings are complete fiction. The 300V CAT III rating for the European models is closer to reality, but only applies if ceramic fuses are fitted and other safety improvements have been made.

I would suggest getting two meters: a used Fluke for the basic VOA measurements plus the best Chinese meter you can afford that has the other bells & whistles like, capacitance, Frequency, temperature, etc

This was discussed early in the thread, and may be the OP's eventual aim. The UT61E together with a used Fluke could be a decent combination, as long as the UT61E is reserved for low voltage use.

[Wytnucls]

To comply with the latest IEC regulations, the UT61E would need to have HRC fuses rated for the highest voltage category of the meter. In this case 1000V. The fuse breaking capacity would have to be equal to 50kA or at least 1000V divided by the impedance of shunt and test leads, which comes to about 5kA. Fuses would have to be FF rated (very fast blow).
It not just a case of replacing fuses either, internal clearances and PCB trace creepage would have to comply with the more stringent IEC requirements (8mm creepage for CAT III 1000V), as the CAT rating goes up.
Provided test leads would need to be changed, as no metal can show on the probe, except for the very contact tip.

[sammyhwang]

Would the UT71D be useless with it's crap input protection (Both Current and voltage!) or will it have a advantage over the UT61E by having 40,000 counts instead of the 22,000 counts? Also it has 2 small displays on the top that are 4000 count. Internal data logging seems nice, everything else is same as UT61E more or less.

Oh and did I say crap input protection? I'd question this thing even if it's rated 600V CAT2. It's rated for 600V CAT4 o.O
No HRC fuses and 1 varistor

If I get one I'll try to do a video review for you guys

[PA4TIM]

I'm glad I'm not a girl, everybody only makes videos for guys 

[M0BSW]

One of the meters I have is a uni T 61 E, it's Ok but I don't think the front end protection is that good, and remember you only get what you pay for, for example I wouldn't dream of using mine with high voltage ie Mains, but that's just a personal opinion, others may have different views. also look at Fluke on ebay second hand ones seem to be good. take time and please don't just rush in to the first deal.

[Wytnucls]

Would the UT71D be useless with it's crap input protection (Both Current and voltage!) or will it have a advantage over the UT61E by having 40,000 counts instead of the 22,000 counts? Also it has 2 small displays on the top that are 4000 count. Internal data logging seems nice, everything else is same as UT61E more or less.

Oh and did I say crap input protection? I'd question this thing even if it's rated 600V CAT2. It's rated for 600V CAT4 o.O
No HRC fuses and 1 varistor

If I get one I'll try to do a video review for you guys

I wouldn't call it useless. It has a lot of features for bench use, not available on the 61E: Auto-off, temperature measurement, a backlight, better accuracy (0.025%+5 on mV DC versus 0.1%+5 for the 61E), internal storage, better USB RS232 connectivity, AC/AC+DC settings, Max/Min with aural warning, and mA/A input jacks aural warning.
Downsides are slow continuity test and less sturdy case than the 61E.

[Lightages]

I have had the UT61E and I have a UT71E. There is a BIG difference in price so they aren't really comparable. The UT71D is the same as the UT71E except it does not have power measurement but it does have a larger memory for recording. If I were to choose one meter from Uni-T again and had no other choice, it would probably be the UT71D.

If you are going to spend that kind of money, there are some other good meters to consider that ARE properly built for input protection.

Amprobe AM-270:  $90
Brymen BM275: $135 shipped to your door
Amprobe 37XR-A: $130

These do not come with a PC cable but if your priority is better build quality and input protection then these are much better buys. If you are going to stick to the bench and not deal with high energy circuits then the UT71D is a good buy for its features. As Wytnucls said, it is rather slow and has a horrible continuity tester but it does have some good features.

[sammyhwang]

I guess at this price what you get in features you trade off for quality and protection (also brand I guess?)

[BeerCannon]

I guess at this price what you get in features you trade off for quality and protection (also brand I guess?)

At any price, really.  It's one of those trade-off triangles:  quality, features, low price... pick any two.

[sammyhwang]

I guess you could always buy a fluke continuity tester