I think many hobbyists will progress from breadboards and protoboards to PCB's, whether homebrew or outsourced. As you become familiar with PCB CAD software, it becomes increasingly easier to use SMD parts, in general. Easier to assemble the boards, easier to make homebrew boards (fewer drill holes needed), cheaper to buy boards (due to smaller area), and cheaper to buy assembled boards. This is aside from the fact that thru-hole is increasingly not even an option on many parts. Sometimes I will find myself wiring together many pcb sub-boards together, and simply hot snotting them onto a sheet of wood or whatnot would be the most expedient way to do that, so the interconnects do not need to deal with stress/tension and the boards to not short each other.
A good quality breadboard may be quite valuable for certain things, especially if you are just starting out with PCB design and/or not interested in that aspect of the hobby.
Before PCB design became second nature to me, I used to use a lot more protoboard. I found it much easier to use it copper side up, whether with SMD or thru-hole parts. I would clip the tips of the legs off of the thru hole IC's and solder them copper-side, and all my jumpers would be top side, where I could see everything, leaving the bottom completely bare (no standoffs needed, either). I found 30AWG kynar the most expedient way to wire things up, using a specific wire stripper tool found in the handle of the old Radio Shack wire wrap tool.
I still occasionally use protoboard or even bare fr-4 and an engraving tool, just to widge a couple of extra components onto a circuit. Glue that bit to the pcb, somewhere, to add the extra parts.