solder bridge connections on perfboards

[KL27x]

Instead of the headers and 30AWG you can use 24AWG kynar directly. They fit nicely into the solderless breadboard and thinner insulation makes the circuit look more tidy.

Thx. I will try that. I used to use the regular 22-24AWG with PVC insulation. Worked ok, just too much spaghetti. Wires falling out when you tried to add more or change them. I have never even used 24AWG kynar... which as much I love my 30 and 28 AWG, I really should try.

[nanofrog]

Instead of the headers and 30AWG you can use 24AWG kynar directly.

I'd love to get 24AWG Kynar (or even 26AWG), but have had issues finding it without having to spend a small fortune (either serious bulk, or OK Industries ~ $25 - $30 per 100ft roll). I say this as I'm frugal, but also would like to have a few colors to differentiate between power, ground, and data for example without pushing ~$75 - $100 for 3 rolls of thin wire (I can get larger gauge hook-wire/automotive wire cheaper than that for 100ft rolls  ).

So if you have any sources for larger gauge Kynar at reasonable prices (26 or 24AWG), it would truly be appreciated. TIA. 

[plazma]

On double sided 0.05" pitch perfboard solder bridges work just fine. The 0.05" pitch version is great for SOIC and 0603 components. With DIL chips it works also fine. You can have solder bridge tracks between DIL pins.
http://plazma.kapsi.fi/pictures/temp/1.27mm_proto_board.jpg

Where do you buy that?

I have twice ordered from this seller:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Double-Side-Board-DIY-Prototype-Paper-PCB-9x15cm-1-6mm-1-27mm/32399078539.html

The first time I ordered from an other seller. I got two 0.1" pitch boards for free instead because they had to refund me for the wrong product.

[batteksystem]

How do you manage to connect close holes by solder bridges on perfboards ?

I am using those
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Double-Side-Prototype-PCB-Tinned-Universal-Breadboard-5x7-cm-50mmx70mm-FR4-/251899506036?hash=item3aa6616d74:g:r2gAAOSwEeFVGqxl

When I try to connect nearby holes by solder bridge, the solder just flow through the hole
and make a big blob beneath without connecting the holes.

Are these holes  too large ?
Is the solder too liquid, the iron too hot  ?

What is your experience on  this problem ?

Thanks

By the look, I think the pad size is too small to hold a bridge, instead using the cut-off lead from resistor as "backbone" for a solid solder connection.

[KL27x]

@Nanofrog
Regarding huge rolls of 30AWG wrapping wire:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-AWG-KYNAR-wire-wrap-30-gauge-Kynar-500-feet-of-any-color-/200406828268?hash=item2ea92d84ec:g:qlsAAOSwB4NW1aUa
I have been buying 1000ft rolls from this seller for the last decade. (So like 3 times, lol. They last a long time). The 1000 ft rolls are like 55.00 shipped, but it looks like they are temporarily out of stock. So this is the 500 ft reel. The sender address on the package is Wes Bel. A lot of my Mouser stuff is drop shipped from Wes Bel. Just something I noticed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-AWG-Appliance-Wrapping-Wire-1000Ft-Silver-Plated-Copper-Wrap-Strip-Reel-Kynar-/121566620358?hash=item1c4def6ac6:g:muEAAOSwe-FU2V6n
I tried this, more recently. 1000ft for 22 bucks, delivered. This is measuring almost 31 gauge, slightly thin. But it wraps and works fine. Note this is meant for wire wrap bits which automatically cut and strip. So it feels a little slippery and the insulation breaks really easily. The insulation is also thinner in OD, which is good. You can strip this stuff with your fingernails. I don't like the slippery feel... but it's fine, really.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1000Ft-305M-0-25mm-Tin-Plated-Copper-Wire-Wrapping-Wire-Cable-30AWG-Yellow/180996750?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=180996750&placement_id=irs-106-t1&strategy=SMT&visitor_id&category=&client_guid=5c25131b-28fe-43ba-a2b3-106acdae9fd1&customer_id_enc&config_id=106&parent_item_id=191395889&parent_anchor_item_id=191395889&guid=23d9bc3f-bfbf-4706-bf86-845b6c25ef72&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n
I noticed this while browsing eBay. No clue if this is legit. 1000 ft roll. $13.43. From Walmart?

[KL27x]

Two colors usually gets me by. Here's how I use it. Wire dispensers and my PCB rework tool with wire stripper. I use this stuff like it's FREE!

Bonus: when I use the wire-cutter built into my DIY dispensers, the wire stretches just a tad, or something. The insulation retracts a little, leaving the freshly cut end ready to solder.

If I'm doing a lot of point-to-point, I will feed the wire directly from the big reel, stripping as I go, cutting the wire with my rework chisel-tool only after soldering both ends of the jumper.



Here's what I've been working on the last couple of days. An example of using wire wrapping on a breadboard. Not the neatest job, but this will be going into the garbage as soon as I'm done with it.

I also have been playing with a new way to use bare copper clad, if u see the too of the IC plugged into the right side of the breadboard. I put some pullups and indicator LEDs right onto the top of the IC. Acid etching it keeps the solder from sticking. So after you mechanically engrave the board to isolate tracks, you can scrape a little dot here and there to get a small bead of solder to stick without it flowing all over the board in huge globs.

[nanofrog]

@Nanofrog
Regarding huge rolls of 30AWG wrapping wire:

Thanks. 

I already have plenty of 30AWG Kynar from an Asian source (eBay), that IIRC, I paid ~7 - $8 for shipped (1000ft/305m roll). I'm after heavier gauge if I can get it at a reasonable price. Unfortunately, what I've come across is typically OK Industries/Jonard, which quite a bit more expensive, and only comes in 100ft rolls (i.e. ~$25 - $30 per roll). Sometimes remnants show up cheaper, but it's rather uncommon IME.

So thus far, I've had to resort to straightening out CAT5e cable as best I can (26AWG), and it's a total PITA.    Which is why I'd love to find a more economical source of 28, 26, or even 24AWG Kynar.

BTW, interesting strip & cutting tool (RadioShack P/N?). Closest I can find to that type, is an OK Industries/Jonard ST-100 (ST100-2830 = version for 28 & 30AWG). I've a Pressmaster Embla, and the standard cartridge can go down to 32AWG (PTFE/Tefzel cartridge only goes down to 28AWG). Neither are anywhere near as convenient to what you're using though, as I have to grab 2 tools to do such a simple task, and I can't slide the insulation back as easily. So I have to cut & strip frequently.  Only thing worse, is using CAT5e cable (add straightening aspect).

The larger gauge does make for better power & ground IME though, so I've dealt with it thus far. But as mentioned, if I can find a reasonably economical method to save that much aggravation, I'll be all over it. 

[KL27x]

Yeah, it's the strip tool out of a Rat Shack wirewrap tool. I ground out a notch in it and soldered it to the end of my little chisel tool (hex bar Chromium Vanadium tool steel; holds a good edge!) with electrical solder. I found out the pot metal melts at around the temp of brazing solder!

The advantage of this kind of stripper tool is that you can strip the wire in the middle. With the adjustable type, you would have to cut the wire, first. Then strip the free end. With this tool, you tack one end of the jumper, lay the wire over the second solder point, then strip it there, exposing a little bit of wire. Then you can hold the wire over that point and solder it without ever having to let go the wire, turn the circuit 180 degrees, and reacquire the free end with tweezers for each joint.

Yikes, I had no idea I was overpaying so much for wire. I will have to shop better... in 5 years from now, lol. Sitting on two reels ATM.

Re jonard: I got that tool. It's HUGE. Too big to maneuver while soldering. It looks more like a gardening tool. But I have made a small strip tool using it. Will post a pic, in a bit. I think you might have seen it before, because I made a post about it like 9 months ago.



I took out the blade and cut it with tin ships. Then expoxied it to the end of a bar of tool steel, as shown. So I could make a 28 and 26 gauge stripper with the Rat Shack form factor. I have a 24 gauge blade, too, which I will have to make a new tool if I start buying reels of 24AWG. JB weld. Holding fine.

[nanofrog]

Yeah, it's the strip tool out of a Rat Shack wirewrap tool. I ground out a notch in it and soldered it to the end of my little chisel tool (hex bar Chromium Vanadium tool steel; holds a good edge!) with electrical solder. I found out the pot metal melts at around the temp of brazing solder!

FWIW, I've not seen one of the RadioShack tools in many years. Jonard's stripers use a notched blade just as the RadioShack versions (usually 2, one for each of the rated wire sizes, though there are singles IIRC), and they do sell replacement blades. It should be possible to DIY something similar to what you have though, using one of Jonard's blades & a chisel or other sharp horizontal blade. Just not bothered digging into it any deeper, though I probably should.

As per buying 30AWG Kynar, both eBay and Amazon are very inexpensive (i.e. under $5 before shipping), and if your vendor uses Amazon to fulfill orders, shipping is free if you meet the required sales total. Would make a nice filler item next time you buy from Amazon, should you need such a thing. 

[KL27x]

Yep. See my last edited post. Yeah, it's too bad about the tool being discontinued. The original "made in Japan" Radio Shack tools gives the best modified wire wrap out of all the ones I have used. Some of the others will wind the wire back over itself if you're not careful. There's a very similar version made in Israel, sold on eBay, last I checked. It is not the same quality.

*Correction. My Israeli made wire wrap tool is fine. I mixed it up with the later production Radio Shack tools, which are the ones that allow the wire to wrap over itself.

[nanofrog]

Yep. See my last edited post.

So you are the one I pointed to regarding the Jonard/OK Industries blade. 

I'll have to remember to figure out a way to DIY something along those lines myself (starting with nothing). I've the tooling to solder, braze, or rivet with.

[KL27x]

So you are the one I pointed to regarding the Jonard/OK Industries blade. 

That's right. Thanks. As you can see, it worked great.

Hmm. I don't think I'm going to bother with 24AWG for breadboarding, afterall. When I use pin headers like in my previous post/pic, I never use a single pin header, even when I'm connecting one point. I always use a section of 2 or more pins. That way, they stick better in the board and don't wiggle or fall out. The pins also give a place to hook a scope probe, ICSP cable, etc. Individual wires are just too unreliable in a jumbled mess of spaghetti, since they become tree trunks, totally stiff; when they start piling up and you need to move one out of the mess, all bets are off.

Yeah, there is a reason I ended up here. I just temporarily forgot. Also, in the last couple days, I am reminded how you can easily twist 30AWG into twisted pairs if your signal gets wonky. And when you need to plug unplug 2 or more connections together over and over, you can put them on a pin header. And connection to logic analyzer, etc... 30AWG is indispensable to me.
 

[zapta]

Instead of the headers and 30AWG you can use 24AWG kynar directly.

I'd love to get 24AWG Kynar (or even 26AWG), but have had issues finding it without having to spend a small fortune (either serious bulk, or OK Industries ~ $25 - $30 per 100ft roll). I say this as I'm frugal, but also would like to have a few colors to differentiate between power, ground, and data for example without pushing ~$75 - $100 for 3 rolls of thin wire (I can get larger gauge hook-wire/automotive wire cheaper than that for 100ft rolls  ).

So if you have any sources for larger gauge Kynar at reasonable prices (26 or 24AWG), it would truly be appreciated. TIA. 

I am using the OK industries 24AWG 100 feet roll. No cheap source, paid $20+. I like the thin insulation. It takes less space, bends better and looks better. Most of my circuits are non solderless so it should last me for some time.

As for colors, everybody knows that kynar wire with color other than blue is an abomination, just the same as non red Ferraris.

[nanofrog]

I am using the OK industries 24AWG 100 feet roll. No cheap source, paid $20+. I like the thin insulation. It takes less space, bends better and looks better. Most of my circuits are non solderless so it should last me for some time.

As for colors, everybody knows that kynar wire with color other than blue is an abomination, just the same as non red Ferraris.

Looks like I'll have to break down and buy some then.    Just spent a wad at Zoro (30% off  ), and am seriously looking to get a larger monitor. So the rest of my budget is on lock-down. 

As it happens, my 30AWG roll is blue.  Figured I'd stick with blue for data, and likely go faster red for power & black for ground (in hopes it will be slightly easier to diagnose issues).

[JacquesBBB]

IT WORKS !!

The secret to bridging a gap with solder is to remove the iron from the joint before you remove the solder.  If you just pile on solder it almost never works.

when I need it I found crucial the temperature of the soldering iron.
The lower the better!! If the temperature is too high the solder bridge will follow the soldering iron.
If the temperature is low enough you will be able to melt just one side of the ball and make another one that will easily stick to the next pad adding a bit of fresh solder. 

I combined these two  advices and it worked.
I  decreased the iron temperature to 180 degC (instead of 350). Leaving the solder wire  helps probably to  cool the solder and prevent it  from flooding beneath.

I  understand that these  perfboards are not the best to do solder bridges, as the pads are small and  they are double sided
with tined holes, but if I could do it on these, I  am now confident I could more easily do these solder bridges with single
side boards.

From all the above discussion, I understand also that using thin wires is a good solution, but my present challenge was these solder bridges.

[KL27x]

^ Awesome. Now buy an extra couple pounds of solder. You'll need it, lol.

As for colors, everybody knows that kynar wire with color other than blue is an abomination, just the same as non red Ferraris.

Noooooo! Green. It has to be green. Green is the standard color of soldermask, but it is bright and still easy to see without busying up the pcb. Green is the color of money. Green is the color of ground. Green is the color of data. Green is the color of circuits!

I tried being hip. A lot of people are using blue soldermask, now. My last reel was blue. 3 years of suffering that eye sore, I'm happy to be square, again. 

Black looks like sewing thread. And it's hard to see. You have 2 or more tiny black wires running together, and you need GOOD lighting to know which ones are which, at a glance. I will never buy black 30AWG, again.

[oldway]

Make your own testboards like this:

[tooki]

Any thoughts on this one

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-DIY-Prototype-PCB-Universal-Matrix-Circuit-Board-Breadboard-8-5x20cm-85x20mm-Top-Sale/32579073250.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.201.xUuscI&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_4_10057_10056_10065_10037_10055_10054_301_10059_10033_10058_10032_10017_107_10060_10061_10052_414_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_9&btsid=505dc240-2076-43d5-bacb-216201ad7af5

searching on this "prototype circuit board"  brings up over 1300 hits with different types like the above one

I like working with that layout, but the build quality of these boards is fairly poor. The etching is imprecise (I had to Dremel away a few bridges between tracks) and they also missed a few drill holes. They were also not entirely flat (but bendy enough to flatten by weighing down). And since they're not tinned, the copper may corrode faster. (When I got my shipment of those, I cleaned them and then gave them a protective coating of rosin flux.)