solder bridge connections on perfboards

[JacquesBBB]

How do you manage to connect close holes by solder bridges on perfboards ?

I am using those
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Double-Side-Prototype-PCB-Tinned-Universal-Breadboard-5x7-cm-50mmx70mm-FR4-/251899506036?hash=item3aa6616d74:g:r2gAAOSwEeFVGqxl

When I try to connect nearby holes by solder bridge, the solder just flow through the hole
and make a big blob beneath without connecting the holes.

Are these holes  too large ?
Is the solder too liquid, the iron too hot  ?

What is your experience on  this problem ?

Thanks

[RobertHolcombe]

It is easier to achieve with non-plated holes since the solder will stay on one side, but even that can be frustrating because the solder tends to remain in two or more separate balls. You could try blocking the bottom side of the holes with kapton tape?

For joining any more than 3 pads in a row I use solid core wire as a jumper, makes the job trivial.

[bingo600]

I usually use the "cutoff" from some through hole components as the "bridge"

/Bingo

[JacquesBBB]

I usually use the "cutoff" from some through hole components as the "bridge"

This is what I  usually end up doing,  but after some time doing that I had the feeling that this
was very amateurish, and wanted to know if there was a professional, very clean and fast way to do it.
This is why I made this post.

@RobertHolcombe : kapton is an idea, but in my case not easy as the area is quite populated.

[tszaboo]

I use wire wrap wire or Kynar wire to make the connections which are far away, leads which are close. If you dont like doing those, buy perfboards which have the connections already made, and there is a tool to cut it, professionally.

[klunkerbus]

Look for boards with square pads.  They're much harder to find, but the square pads allow bridging between pads with just solder. As you are finding, bridging with just solder is tough to do with round pads. 

[MosherIV]

When I try to connect nearby holes by solder bridge, the solder just flow through the hole
and make a big blob beneath without connecting the holes.

Try bridging the gap with a bit of wire.
I know you are suppose to be able to do it with just solder but if that does not work, just use a piece of cut off lead from a component or bend the lead of component before cutting the lead.

[mikerj]

The secret to bridging a gap with solder is to remove the iron from the joint before you remove the solder.  If you just pile on solder it almost never works.

[jkf1000]

Have you considered using the leads of the components your are fitting to bridge over the pads? Its a method I use a lot and it makes for a very neat finish when working from point to point. Karl

[JacquesBBB]

Have you considered using the leads of the components your are fitting to bridge over the pads? Its a method I use a lot and it makes for a very neat finish when working from point to point. Karl

Yes,  this is what  I have been doing so far (as in the  attached example), but  when  a few  connections remains, it would be nice to make solder bridges, and
this was the purpose of my post (solder bridges without supporting wires).

A big problem when you use the components leads to make the bridges is when you have to change a component. This end up
with some kind of war surgery that you usually want to avoid.


From the above posts, I retain  :
 - Use  single side board (RobertHolcombe)
 - Use boards with square pads (klunkerbus)

and the less intuitive but which I will try on my two sided boards :

The secret to bridging a gap with solder is to remove the iron from the joint before you remove the solder.  If you just pile on solder it almost never works.

Thanks for these advices. I am looking forward other good recipes for making solder bridges WITHOUT the support of leads.

[plazma]

On double sided 0.05" pitch perfboard solder bridges work just fine. The 0.05" pitch version is great for SOIC and 0603 components. With DIL chips it works also fine. You can have solder bridge tracks between DIL pins.
http://plazma.kapsi.fi/pictures/temp/1.27mm_proto_board.jpg

[lem_ix]

In my experience using less solder then what I've seen on your pics gave better results. Now I mostly solder everything and use wires only when I really need to.

[mariush]

Using more flux would help in making solder bridges.

Good quality 63/37 solder would also help a lot as it solidifies instantly once the temperature goes down below 183c (it's eutectic, unlike 60/40 or lead free solder) so you just pull out the solder iron from the solder and it hardens quickly.

Thinner solder wire would also help to get just the right amount of solder in.

See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder if you want to learn more about solder types (eutectic vs normal solder)

[Cubdriver]

I've always found that the best way to get solder bridges to form is to NOT want them.  Then you'll get them right and left.   

When working with perfboard like that I too use cut off leads to bridge the pads and make up my 'traces'.  I also tend to (once all the parts are in place) solder the entire length of the bare wire to the pads it's resting on.  IMO it makes for a neater appearance, and also prevents the wires from shifting and making contact with neighboring things that they shouldn't or getting snagged by things getting between them and the board.

-Pat

[mauroh]

I don't like this method, but when I need it I found crucial the temperature of the soldering iron.
The lower the better!! If the temperature is too high the solder bridge will follow the soldering iron.
If the temperature is low enough you will be able to melt just one side of the ball and make another one that will easily stick to the next pad adding a bit of fresh solder. 

With a bit of practice you will make bridges with just a little of solder.

Mauro

[JacquesBBB]

Thanks for this one.
Maybe this was my problem. My iron was probably too hot.

[mariush]

If your soldering iron is too hot, you're burning up the flux contained inside the solder too fast, therefore the copper pads will remain somewhat oxidized or dirty and your solder will move around. Flux is the key to proper soldering.
That's why I suggested separate liquid flux... flux pens are expensive considering they have only about 10ml, you can find separate no clean flux in 100ml or 250ml or 500ml at some stores and just put some in syringe and put a drop on the board when needed.
Just wet the surface with flux before trying to make bridges, as you heat the copper pads with your iron tip the flux will activate and do its job and then the flux inside the actual solder will also contribute to a good job.




PS. If you're in Europe, you can buy stuff from TME.eu , it's a good Polish company. I'm using flux they have in stock, made by a Polish company called AG Thermopasty. It's cheap and good and available in lots of quantities at very decent prices:  http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=100484&page=1&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC

Select AG Thermopasty from manufacturers, select liquid and/or gel and/or paste at appearance and go with No-Clean or halide free or RMA (rosin mildly activated) or non-corrosive (probably another name for no-clean) .. stay away from water soluble fluxes as they're often hard to clean.   no-clean and most halide free and sometimes rma can be simply left on the board after soldering as the acids in the flux won't do damage. RMA fluxes sometimes have to be cleaned with a bit of isopropyl alcohol on a wipe, and you can do the same cleaning with isopropyl alcohol for other fluxes as well if you like clean (or not slightly sticky) boards.

[wraper]

Try soldering faster. First apply enough solder to fill the holes, let them cool down a little bit. Then rapidly make a solder bridge using additional solder before the solder on the other side of the hole becomes liquid.

[edavid]

On double sided 0.05" pitch perfboard solder bridges work just fine. The 0.05" pitch version is great for SOIC and 0603 components. With DIL chips it works also fine. You can have solder bridge tracks between DIL pins.
http://plazma.kapsi.fi/pictures/temp/1.27mm_proto_board.jpg

Where do you buy that?

[KL27x]

I buy the 500/1000 foot reels of 30AWG kynar wire. Endless uses for prototyping. Strips in a flash for use as bare bus wire. Wraps easily over square leads or header pins. I don't even use jumper wires on breadboards, anymore. I stick extra long pin headers into the breadboard and wire wrap the connections. No more putting away and trying to find the right jumper wires. Just throw them away. Totally disposable.

[nanofrog]

On double sided 0.05" pitch perfboard solder bridges work just fine. The 0.05" pitch version is great for SOIC and 0603 components. With DIL chips it works also fine. You can have solder bridge tracks between DIL pins.
http://plazma.kapsi.fi/pictures/temp/1.27mm_proto_board.jpg

Where do you buy that?

Found a couple on Aliexpress (had to search 1.27mm pitch to find these).

• 6x8cm, 1.27mm pitch double sided, Q = 3 pieces
• 9x15cm, 1.27mm pitch, double sided, Q = 1 piece

Ebay search.

FWIW, I also buy Kynar 30AWG in 1000ft rolls as well for the same reasons as KL27x. My perfboards are all .0100"/2.54mm pitch, and I add IC's via SMD -> DIP boards. Rather easy to do, and using the 30AWG Kynar as bus wire isn't that big of an issue.

[KL27x]

I find 0.05" veroboard without holes to be very useful. Make it myself, doublesided. but 99% of the time I'm only using 1 side. I'm not convinced you are going to use thru holes and/or the other side very often when prototyping with SMD parts.

[ez24]

Any thoughts on this one

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-DIY-Prototype-PCB-Universal-Matrix-Circuit-Board-Breadboard-8-5x20cm-85x20mm-Top-Sale/32579073250.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.201.xUuscI&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_4_10057_10056_10065_10037_10055_10054_301_10059_10033_10058_10032_10017_107_10060_10061_10052_414_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_9&btsid=505dc240-2076-43d5-bacb-216201ad7af5

searching on this "prototype circuit board"  brings up over 1300 hits with different types like the above one

[nanofrog]

I'm not convinced you are going to use thru holes and/or the other side very often when prototyping with SMD parts.

Quite true. 

I've not really seen anything COTS that really would fit the bill as nicely as I'd like, but perhaps there's something out there (suggestions welcome).
But I have managed to find 0805 0603 0402 to DIP Adapter boards. And they're rather cheap. So combining them with SMD->DIP breakout boards is doable for SMD prototyping without having to make your own/send a board design to a cheap board house (i.e. no need to wait for your boards to show up ).

Despite the fact SMD components are cheaper than their leaded counterparts however, it's probably a wash at best cost wise.

Any thoughts on this one... [snip]...

searching on this "prototype circuit board"  brings up over 1300 hits with different types like the above one

It looks a bit interesting, particularly regarding the bus strips.

[zapta]

I buy the 500/1000 foot reels of 30AWG kynar wire. Endless uses for prototyping. Strips in a flash for use as bare bus wire. Wraps easily over square leads or header pins. I don't even use jumper wires on breadboards, anymore. I stick extra long pin headers into the breadboard and wire wrap the connections. No more putting away and trying to find the right jumper wires. Just throw them away. Totally disposable.

Instead of the headers and 30AWG you can use 24AWG kynar directly. They fit nicely into the solderless breadboard and thinner insulation makes the circuit look more tidy.