desoldering gun with 3d printer nozzle

[pereczes]

Convinced not to spend 100$ or more for a vacuum-desoldering tool. Bought this 12V/1A sparcfun vacuum engine. Though I find the end price bit expensive, sparkfun is among few US and A companies that deliver to Bel and gium for a fair 8$! Bought the Aoyoua C005A heater with nozzle, apply temperature controlled 24V and booom... stuff should work... Well still some design detail how to attach the nozzle to the heater, but should not be so difficult. The problem would be to attach the sucker pipe to the heater due to thermal problems, but this teflon pipe/tubing should help. Besides that the pump is always available on the desk for other purposes. (like inflating balloons if once every 10 years I would be in the mood, or inflating the bicycle tires)

in my solution for vacuum desoldering the big question was to combine a ceramic heater with nozzle that is attached through a pipe to a vacuum pump. I find certain devices or solutions ridiculously expensive. This is kind of lego for 12 years old child brain capacity to combain a heat source with ah vacuum source and apply to a fix point to suck fluid solder.

What i wonder however if all this aoyoua heater and nozzle could not be replaced with the so available 3d printer nozzle/head etc storry, like in the link above: Well 20$ is alreado toooo much for it... individual parts could cost max 12$.

Anybody already used this head/block/ceramic heater combination?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heater-Block-Nozzle-throat-Extruder-Nozzle-Heater-Thermistor-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-/171126555685

[MacAttak]

3d printer heads like the one you link to typically have a thermistor that is only rated to slightly above 300C. You would need to find a higher temp thermistor or use a thermocouple.

The nozzle opening (typically 0.4mm or so) is probably much too narrow and you'd want to find a nozzle with a larger opening. Or perhaps drill out the 0.4mm hole to something larger.

Extrusion heads like that are designed to maximize heat in the central block - not at the nozzle tip. So you'll actually need to run it slightly hotter than a soldering iron would be.

You will have a difficult time seeing the workpiece behind the heating block / cartridge heater. Also, the thick heater wires typically protrude from the side, making it even more difficult to see around.

Lastly, the nozzle will come up to working temperature FAR more slowly than a real soldering iron would. A soldering iron will only take a few seconds to reach reflow temp. An extrusion nozzle will take a few minutes unless you power it VERY aggressively, which will make it very hard to control the overshoot.