Hi all.
My latest Dumpster score, a Bowflex treadmill, yielded me a bunch of goodies. Since I had plenty of time and all the right tools, I believe I managed to salvage the entire circuit, which encompasses a DC motor, an AC-powered linear actuator, a motor controller and all the various switches, safety features and blinky lights. Leaving all this stuff hooked up, I wasn't able to get the unit working, probably because of the speed sensor and another idiot-protection circuit which shuts off the motor when the user's hands aren't on the metal hand grips. The controller board is house-labeled, but is probably an MC-2100, about which there is tons of hookup info available online. When I have some free time I may try to get that working.
So I tried connecting the motor to my test jig, which is nothing more than a variac and a 50A bridge rectifier. With smaller motors, I have been able to use this jig to test for functionality, but the new motor is giving me some trouble. Per the label, this beast is rated at 90VDC @20A and supposedly can put out 3HP. When I hooked it up and gradually turned up the voltage, the motor never turned or made any funny noises or sparks. Instead, it tripped the GFCI, turning off the power in my garage. I know this is true, because I reset the switch inside the breaker panel and tried testing the motor again and got the same result.
So my question is this: Big motor circuits often have either an inductor or a capacitor, and sometimes both. My understanding is that either of these passive devices allows an electrical charge to build up slowly, eventually delivering the massive surge of current the motor needs to start turning from a full stop. Motors I've salvaged in the past often had an 0.1uF capacitor rated at 600V or so; this seems to be a standard value. If I get such a capacitor, how should I go about hooking it up? Do I need an inductor to protect the rectifier from back EMF when the motor powers down, and if so, how do I go about choosing its value? If I had a value in mind of so many henries (or microhenries), I could probably figure out how many turns of some particular gauge of wire to wind on a bobbin to make my own "choke", or whatever it's called.... Or am I on the wrong track entirely?
For those of you who are concerned about safety, not to worry: My test jig plugs into a fused power strip on a long extension cord, and I generally wear rubber-soled shoes and hide behind a heavy desk when I first turn it on. And once it's energized, I'm very careful not to touch anything metallic that might deliver a jolt. Thanks for reading.