Equip your electronics bench- Help!!!

[rsjsouza]

I also have a FX888 and got the larger tips mentioned by Shock - they work well for larger PCB areas.

For the offending job that requires more power, however, I got myself a Weller 8200 kit - it heats instantaneously, works very well but the enclosure tends to become hot when used for a long time (about 1/2 hour or so).

[ez24]

This is my go to iron, it is light, carries a lot of heat (good for wiring in tube sockets) and heats up fast:

https://www.amazon.com/WELLER-COMPLETE-700%C3%82%C2%B0F-POWER-CHISEL/dp/B00DKEYPOU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469483856&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+gt7a

For PCB I use a cheap 30w iron - for really heavy work, like splicing 6ga wire, I use the large Weller:

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-D650-Industrial-Soldering-Gun/dp/B000JEGEC0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1469483984&sr=8-18&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

If you get into SMD work then you probably will need a soldering station

Edit:  my go to has a better tip than the heavy duty one

[tautech]

If you happen to stumble upon an English Antex X25, they're a good little iron too. Despite being rated only @ 25W they box above their weight for a lightweight mains powered pencil iron. I'd happily use one on valve based work, P to P and tag strip work.
US readers will know if they were available in 110V versions, only 230V here.

[nanofrog]

US readers will know if they were available in 110V versions, only 230V here.

According to Antex's site, they're only offered in 12V, 24V, & 230V versions (no P/N's listed for 12V & 24V, so I assume they're special order  ).

[tautech]

US readers will know if they were available in 110V versions, only 230V here.

According to Antex's site, they're only offered in 12V, 24V, & 230V versions (no P/N's listed for 12V & 24V, so I assume they're special order  ).

Stalking AGAIN. 

[nanofrog]

Stalking AGAIN. 

Can't help it... stupid insomnia ( ).   

[finom1]

OK, we need the help of the geniuses here that have helped us have a vertical start up. This all started by reading on line about favorite capacitor testators that test at operating voltages.

The question is, which capacitor tester is better & has more features;
1. Military ZX-11
or
2. Military ZM-30/U

Thank you for sharing your wisdom!

[oldway]

I would choose a cheaper IT-28 Heathkit. (or IT-11)

More informations here:
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3209

[finom1]

I just watched these videos about testing capacitors;

1. Testing Capacitors part 1,

2. Testing Capacitors Part 2,

It's great listening to him!

I look forward to hearing what you think?

[ez24]

OK, we need the help of the geniuses here that have helped us have a vertical start up. This all started by reading on line about favorite capacitor testators that test at operating voltages.

The question is, which capacitor tester is better & has more features;
1. Military ZX-11
or
2. Military ZM-30/U

Thank you for sharing your wisdom!

Once you decide on what you want, you may want to ask forum members if anyone has one for sale.  You would stand a better chance of getting one that works.  The military ones are cool looking.  Since there has been no responses about them, you could start a new topic on just them.  That way they would get more attention.

[oldway]

A lot of vintage measuring equipment here ! 

On old tube devices, I am in favor of change only what is necessary .

Indeed, if one wants to do preventive maintenance, you end up having to completely redo the amplifier and change almost all components.
That's:
-all electrolytic for an obvious reason
-all capacitors because of the risk of leakage
-all carbon resistors because they were sensitive to moisture and were drifting

My philosophy is different: change only what is essential.

So,
1) change all the low voltage electrolytic capacitors ... no need to measure them, simply automatically change them... They are cheap, easy to buy and there is also a very little number in tube amplifiers.

2) check for leaks the grid / anode coupling capacitors. (the exact value of the capacity is not important)

3) For the high-voltage electrolytic capacitors, check the ripple.
If the ripple is low, do not change them.
If the ripple is too high, either change them or solder an additional electrolytic capacitor to the terminals of the old capacitor.

4) for carbon resistance, do a functional test ... if everything is ok, do not change nothing even if the value of resistance has changed.

This preserves the amplifier to stay the most original like as possible .

[finom1]

A lot of vintage measuring equipment here ! 

On old tube devices, I am in favor of change only what is necessary .

Indeed, if one wants to do preventive maintenance, you end up having to completely redo the amplifier and change almost all components.
That's:
-all electrolytic for an obvious reason
-all capacitors because of the risk of leakage
-all carbon resistors because they were sensitive to moisture and were drifting

My philosophy is different: change only what is essential.

So,
1) change all the low voltage electrolytic capacitors ... no need to measure them, simply automatically change them... They are cheap, easy to buy and there is also a very little number in tube amplifiers.

2) check for leaks the grid / anode coupling capacitors. (the exact value of the capacity is not important)

3) For the high-voltage electrolytic capacitors, check the ripple.
If the ripple is low, do not change them.
If the ripple is too high, either change them or solder an additional electrolytic capacitor to the terminals of the old capacitor.

4) for carbon resistance, do a functional test ... if everything is ok, do not change nothing even if the value of resistance has changed.

This preserves the amplifier to stay the most original like as possible .

Great particle advice to follow!
It's very clear after going back and reading all your advice that we should make a "Start Up Check List", to follow for each piece of equipment we work on! 
1. Using a Variac & Dim Bulb Tester to check for shorts & re-form capacitors.
etc...

Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!!

[finom1]

What is the best Signal generator to use for vintage vacuum tube work we will be doing?

Thank you for your advice!!!

[tautech]

What is the best Signal generator to use for vintage vacuum tube work we will be doing?

Thank you for your advice!!!

I'm unsure if you'd want/need isolation.....common ground connection shouldn't present any problems but care is needed if the signal reference need be elevated from ground.
The Siglent SDG5000 series offers isolated outputs but most probably it's a unit far in excess of your needs.

For audio, any unit capable with a 20 Hz -50 KHz sine wave should suit your needs but if there's any digital control waveform needs you might want to look at those that can offer square waves or pulses up to 1 MHz or so.

[ez24]

What is the best Signal generator to use for vintage vacuum tube work we will be doing?

Thank you for your advice!!!

If you are going with vintage repair equipment check this out

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Boonton-Radio-Type-211-A-Serial-103-Crystal-Monitored-Signal-Generator-/371489528620?hash=item567e805b2c:g:jm0AAOSw7hRWPRD6

search ebay on "vintage signal generator"

Some really cool looking stuff.

It seems if you equip your lab this way and everything works, it would increase in value with time (ie a good investment).  Plus during Halloween you could set up a haunted house with an electric chair as the main attraction and all this equipment around the chair.  See if you can get any kids to sit in it.  Then when you get good - give them harmless shocks using your vintage equipment.

[finom1]

What is the best Signal generator to use for vintage vacuum tube work we will be doing?

Thank you for your advice!!!

I'm unsure if you'd want/need isolation.....common ground connection shouldn't present any problems but care is needed if the signal reference need be elevated from ground.
The Siglent SDG5000 series offers isolated outputs but most probably it's a unit far in excess of your needs.

For audio, any unit capable with a 20 Hz -50 KHz sine wave should suit your needs but if there's any digital control waveform needs you might want to look at those that can offer square waves or pulses up to 1 MHz or so.

Thank you for sharing!

I just watched this video and I am totally confused -

Look at all the equipment used just to generate the signal? I am new at this, but how many pieces of test equipment is needed to send pure sine wave into one of our tube amp restorations/ guitar amp to check the output, wattage & distortion?

Thank you.

[bitseeker]

I just watched this video and I am totally confused

Look at all the equipment used just to generate the signal? I am new at this, but how many pieces of test equipment is needed to send pure sine wave into one of our tube amp restorations/ guitar amp to check the output, wattage & distortion?

That video is about comparing two different models of signal generators and a function generator. You'd only need one generator that covers the audio spectrum and has a lower THD than the equipment you'd be working on.

[finom1]

It's very clear after going back and reading all your advice that we should make a "Start Up Check List", to follow for each piece of equipment we work on! 
1. Using a Variac & Dim Bulb Tester to check for shorts & re-form capacitors.
etc...

In most cases you would go over an unknown amp before powering it up, especially vintage amps.

Test the controls and make sure nothings seized (you get a feel for dirty pots), remove the amp from it's case and check out any previous work, leaking electrolytic caps, burnt out diodes or resistors etc. Check the fuse is correct, no obvious shorts or wires floating around that could cause them. Then confirm if the chassis is earthed and the mains cable is in good condition, otherwise treat the chassis as potentially live. Cleaning the tube pins and sockets is a good idea as well.

Make sure you have an appropriate speaker/load connected and impedance selected. Turn down everything, hook up the isolation transformer, variac and dim bulb tester and bring it up while monitoring current. If it's not been used for years you can do it incrementally to hopefully reform the caps (there are various methods). If no issues in power off/standby then start again from switched on position.

Then increase the volume, test the controls then put a signal source on. Something like that

WOW, great "Start up Check List".

Would it be a good idea to have two separate check lists?
1. Pre-Power Up Check List; loose wires, burned components/wires, blown fuse, etc... visual inspections.
2. Power Up Check List, as stated eloquently above.

What do you think?

Thank you for sharing!!!

[finom1]

I just watched this video and I am totally confused

Look at all the equipment used just to generate the signal? I am new at this, but how many pieces of test equipment is needed to send pure sine wave into one of our tube amp restorations/ guitar amp to check the output, wattage & distortion?

That video is about comparing two different models of signal generators and a function generator. You'd only need one generator that covers the audio spectrum and has a lower THD than the equipment you'd be working on.

Thank you for sharing!!!

[Shock]

I just watched this video and I am totally confused

Look at all the equipment used just to generate the signal? I am new at this, but how many pieces of test equipment is needed to send pure sine wave into one of our tube amp restorations/ guitar amp to check the output, wattage & distortion?

Signal/Frequency/Function/Audio/Waveform generator to generate an audio signal.
Multimeter/Voltmeter to measure the output voltage and then calculate the wattage.
Dummy load so that you can take accurate and convenient output measurements (at high volume it's a necessity).
Distortion analyzer to measure THD.

We are starting really to go back to things discussed on the first page, but you can use any audio device to play a test signal to get yourself started. There are software audio generators and analyzers.

The other things he has on that rack I've seen are an oscilloscope, spectrum analyzer, frequency counter and an attenuator.

[Shock]

WOW, great "Start up Check List".
Would it be a good idea to have two separate check lists?
1. Pre-Power Up Check List; loose wires, burned components/wires, blown fuse, etc... visual inspections.
2. Power Up Check List, as stated eloquently above.
What do you think?

Sure, put numbers next to my paragraphs if it makes it easier to understand.

[ez24]

If space is a problem you could try this with a $50 tablet

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keuwl.functiongenerator&hl=en

For audio work, apps can do a lot

[finom1]

If space is a problem you could try this with a $50 tablet

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keuwl.functiongenerator&hl=en

For audio work, apps can do a lot

Great, this solves the pure sine wave with low distortion problems!!!

Thanks!!!

[ez24]

Something that might be of help
you never know if one of these will show up (transistor)

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/introduction-to-electronics-course-free-or-$50-starts-aug-22/

[oldway]

There is absolutely no need to measure the harmonic distortion of a tube guitar amplifier. 

As I have already written and as calexanian has also confirmed, it would just adjust the bias of the output tubes so that there are no visible crossover distortion on the oscilloscope.

So all audio generator with sine / square output is good, even the cheapest one.

The recommended biasing procedure in those days was to apply a sinewave. Typically of the lowest frequency of the -1DB point of the output transformer as full power. I believe its about 100hz for a deluxe reverb. Perhaps a tad higher. Adjust for rated power output and no crossover distortion. return to no signal and make sure the tubes are not dissipating too much power at idle, then take the amp into clipping. Adjust bias up to clean up the square wave a little and check for anodes to not be beginning to glow. Return to clean rated power and observe maximum dissipation and again check for no anode glow. Return to idle and check for dissipation. It was not a really exact science. What sounded good at clean rated output may sound terrible under heavy clipping. That's why they had to be run a little hotter and the transformer impedance was played with to get them in a reasonable spot on the transfer curve of the tube at that point where the distortion was not cold or harsh and the tube was not melting.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/fender-deluxe-reverb-repair/

Nb: Square wave is needed to check the stability of the amplifier....