Files for enclosure work.

[paulca]

I had a crack at making an enclosure it took my an awful long time to cut a simple notch for a Micro USB socket.  Using a full drill with a cutting disc and grinding wheel didn't work, much, made more of a mess. 

I figured "If only I had a small file"

What do you think of these, I am worried most of the might be too big for the purpose.

https://www.homebase.co.uk/hart-hfset5-5-piece-200mm-file-set_p389850

[picandmix]

Would think you need a combination of standard and small needle files, though buying better quality ones always worthwhile.

These drill saws also very handy for enlarging things.

Generally find its easier to use a bench drill than a hand held one when drilling  such enclosures, small or large openings.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1230929/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Tools-_-Deburring_And_Finishing_Tools%7CFile_Sets-_-PRODUCT+GROUP&matchtype=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-v2Gnrru2AIV2smyCh0XMwULEAQYASABEgLnJvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-drill-saw-set-3-pieces/89079?tc=BB3&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlPKszrru2AIVjh0YCh1zkAAWEAQYAiABEgLETfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CODl-d677tgCFcyu7QodEZIM7g

[paulca]

Uh oh.  This could get expensive, couldn't it?

I think I might start with those needle files and a handle for them.

[jpanhalt]

What are you cutting?  ABS, clear plastic, aluminum, steel, "pot" metal casting?    Chose the right tool for the job.   

While a milling machine is versatile, for hand work, the best tool will vary depending on what you  are cutting and to an extent, the shape and size of the holes.

[phil from seattle]

Depending on the material, try a nibbler. With a little practice, you can do reasonably clean openings.

[jpanhalt]

Yep, particularly good for aluminum, but not so good  for polystyrene and other brittle plastics.

[Gyro]

If you're talking things as small as micro USB connectors then a set of needle files are about your only option. Luckily, even fairly decent ones are cheap on Amazon and ebay these days.

On the same subject, step drill sets are also getting much cheaper - an ideal alternative to punches for larger round holes. Best in a slow speed pillar drill but can also be used with care with a hand drill, depending on material.

[rhb]

Chinese needle files are cheap and will do just fine.  Though you might get some that don't cut.  For $1-2 set it's not a big loss.  Swiss made files are pricey.  In any case,  needle files are the proper tool for making small openings.

I dread making the enclosures more than anything else.  It's really obvious if you screw up.

[picandmix]

You can get any amount of cheap needle files, which have a very crude or course cut, break or bend easily and generally make a mess of you work.

Decent quality ones, like the RS ones should still be ( mine still good after 30 years)  are really worth those few pounds more.

Same with larger openings, its not that hard as you can see, mark out the area with a pen or pencil , drill out most of the area, use a standard flat file and finish the corners with the needle files.
Opening on the side for a micro usb socket as well.

[paulca]

So, what would your thoughts on these additions be:

Hand Nibbler:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112578430175

Special drill bits:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331976010113

Files (3 pack):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221888596621?var=520781662204

[Gyro]

Hmmm. maybe not perfect selections...

- The Nibbler you show looks like one for cutting out a strip into the edge of a sheet of metal - sort of double edge scissor style. The sort you want is the type that Phil from Seattle showed, where it pulls a slotted plunger (punch) through a rectangular opening (die). It's used vertically rather than horizontally.

EDIT: I found one from RS under 'Notching tool' but the price is scandalous. I'm sure mine came from Maplin, donkeys' years ago and I'm sure I wasn't in a position to spend much on it! https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/notching-punching-tools/1752796/

- I would be tempted to go for a step drill only kit with a bigger range of sizes. The tapered drill is occasionally useful for odd size holes, but very difficult to control the actual diameter and the hole sides are not parallel. The rotary file is hard to control because as you try to push it in one direction, it tries to climb sideways.

- The Diamond file sets cut very aggressively, they remove a lot of material but don't leave smooth edges. You probably want to back them up with some smoother metal tooth ones.

[ChrisLX200]

So, what would your thoughts on these additions be:

Hand Nibbler:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112578430175

Special drill bits:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331976010113

Files (3 pack):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221888596621?var=520781662204

You definitely don't want diamond-coated files, those will just clog up and stop cutting as soon as you touch alloy with them. Those are for hard steel/tool steel/carbide etc. Look for some Swiss pillar files for fine work, or a decent 8" flat file (with a safe edge!).

Edit: Pics added, two grades of Swiss Pillar file, standard needle file, and 8" flat file. Note both Pillar and flat files have safe (smooth non-cutting) edges. Always use file handles - these are home made. Needle files are generally too short in length to get a good cutting action. Use a file card to keep the teeth clean of debris.

[eKretz]

Good needle files will be a worthwhile investment for anyone who does much craft work. You'll want a range of cuts, or tooth types, for each shape. A good coarse double-cut will help with fast shaping, bastard single cut will do for medium finishing/smoothing and from there you can go to either a mill cut file or sandpaper if necessary.

Regarding file handles, one should definitely always be used. It's absolutely imperative if doing any filing work on a powered machine. There are very nice clamping file handles available these days that are quite solid, give a great grip and are easily and quickly transferred from one file to another. These are available for both full size files and needle files.

[tggzzz]

Consider using a jewellery piercing saw plus blades. Cuts any shape you need, as you might infer from who uses them.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/jewellery-saw

Make sure you get the adjustible frame, so that you can easily alter the blade's tension.
Choose the right supplier, and get 144 blades in a selection of "sizes".

[paulca]

I'll have another look.  It was a good job I asked.

I don't intend to do a lot of craft work.   While I would love to have a full workshop with a pillar drill, bench sander, band saw and vices and all that good stuff, I live in an apartment and have no room for such things.  So it will have to be 'make do' style.  Basic minimal tools.

I have a drill.  If I have files, sand paper and maybe a nibbler I figure I can cut most holes in plastic enclosures.

[jpanhalt]

If by plastic you mean the usual soft ABS-like plastic, then consider some woodworking tools.   A small chisel and Xacto knife with pointed blade (#11) will help -- great for sharp corners.   I would rarely, if ever use "sandpaper" on such plastic to finish a hole.  Files, scraping and similar cutting actions are my preferred methods.

[paulca]

Next attempt:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pc-Jewellery-Model-Making-Precision-Needle-Files-Also-Suit-Craft-Hobby-Tools/331751808656?epid=1523184533&hash=item4d3df2de90:g:7coAAOSwu4BV1voK

As to the step drill.  I'm not sure I need it.  I was able to drill a perfectly good hole for a cable.  I'm not entirely fussed if holes are perfectly straight/paralleled so I'll leave that until I find I need it.

I have an Xacto clone I got from HobbyKing about 10 years ago, along with about 100 blades.  Still works a charm.  Although when the blade dulls and I replace it I have to tendency to forget its a fresh blade and slice my thumb open stripping wires with it.  Ouch!  I invested in a wirestripper, but sometimes a knife is easier.

[Nusa]

For round holes, I find a tapered hand reamer useful, especially if you have a limited set of drill bits. Drill out with the nearest undersize drill you have, then ream it to the exact size needed. For holes that are the right size, it's a handy deburring tool.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reamer#Tapered_reamer_(non-precision)

I'm also quite fond of my automatic center punch to make drilling dimples. I almost never use the old hammer-powered one anymore.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

The nipper pictured early in this thread is also very handy. The one I got over 20 years ago looks almost exactly like that picture. You can use it to turn round holes into square holes fairly easily. Draw or scribe nice lines for guides and you can be very precise with the nibble.

[bd139]

Laziness at work here:

1. Buy enclosures that are easy to cut to start with. Look for ABS and Takachi thin aluminium enclosures on RS / bitsbox / wherever. Avoid die cast ones.
2. If you're using ABS, just drill the holes out or shapes out and clean them up with a stanley knife. that's all you need. Try and pick things to put in the holes that have bezels so you don't have to worry about making a mess of the holes.
3. If you're using sheet aluminium, drill holes out big enough to get a nibbler in then use that. You don't need to file it afterwards. I got one from machine mart that looks like this one (they dont sell them at MM any more though): https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OKT1AB0/
4. Finish both plastic and metal holes off with a deburring tool rather than files. I use one of these: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/deburring-tools/1230915/
5. If you have FR4 lying around, it's easy to work when flat compared to boxes and makes good enclosures.

[Gyro]

I have to disagree on the diecast boxes - they are the easiest of all metal enclosures to work, for the simple reason that they cut easily without any burring (unlike Aluminium sheet). You can achieve very accurate results with them using simple drills, files, hacksaw blades etc. Personally they are my enclosures of choice - much less fiddly than plastic.

[paulca]

Well, here is my very first enclosed project:

It only required dropping a screw stanchion to hold the NodeMCU between it and the lid, a notch for the USB which I hacked with a bit of drill w/ cutting disc (saw would have been better), a bit of xacto gouging and a 6mm hole for an RJ45 cable. 

Still I'm proud of it. It's neat, rugged and functional.  Kinda cute too, blue LED in a blue case.  <shrug>

I didn't need to worry about fixing anything else besides the NodeMCU as there was no room, it was a tight squeeze there are 3 boards in there!



https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/nodemcu-esp8266-rs485-epever-solar-monitor-diy/

[paulca]

So I went out of buy some storage boxes and files in Homebase and decided to stop off in the local pound shop too.

Got my storage boxes, plus a set of 6 needle files for £1.79, 3 full 8" files for £1.99, 6 12" hacksaw blades for £1 and some wet/dry sandpaper £1.20.

I bet the needle files alone would have cost that from Homebase.

As to whether they are made out of soft Chinese cheese remains to be seen.

[ChrisLX200]

So I went out of buy some storage boxes and files in Homebase and decided to stop off in the local pound shop too.

Got my storage boxes, plus a set of 6 needle files for £1.79, 3 full 8" files for £1.99, 6 12" hacksaw blades for £1 and some wet/dry sandpaper £1.20.

I bet the needle files alone would have cost that from Homebase.

As to whether they are made out of soft Chinese cheese remains to be seen.

Well they should work, and provided you're not filing steel with them they'll do the job. If 8" files don't have a safe edge put one on yourself using a grinder - the safe edge makes it easier to work with filing into corners without over-cutting in one direction..

[bd139]

I use poundland quite a lot for enclosures. Sometimes it's worth chucking something into some one shot tupperware stuff if you want it to just not short out

First enclosed project looks good 

[Neomys Sapiens]

I can only recommend Swiss files (UMV Vallorbe, Grobert, Corradi) above anything. But DICK, PFERD and HASE brands from Germany are quite decent as well. They offer special cuts for aluminium and soft metals as well as files suitable for stainless steel. Vallorbe 'Habilis' files are very nice, they are needle-file styled in the size of smaller machinist's files. Also their 'Valtitan' range is nice. I knew a Us company making (really!) decent files, but I can't find the name right now.

When filing aluminium, use petroleum (lamp oil without smell, or medical oleum petrae) as lubricant/separation aid and the chips will not stick to your file.

When getting needle files: a type that is not included in the standard kits is the knife type. But it is very useful, as it can make a precise first cut when one wants to saw a hard material. Prevents the hacksaw dancing away from the intended line of cutting.

Also get a small triangular scraper for cleaning out corners of openings made by the methods described above. A good scribe is also recommended. Also, the swivelling deburring tools (Noga/Shaviv and compatible ones) are extremely useful. A small one will probably suffice, just get some different blades for it to fit your material.

I personally do not like the automatic center punches. They can jump if not correctly adjusted and make a false impression near the correct one.

Whatever you do, do not allow your files to rub at each other! If lacking the special roll or case, make your own by plastic welding out of heavy-duty plastic bags or roll them in alternate directions in protective paper (brown stuff) or soft cloth.
As stated by other posters, diamond files are limited in their applications. Working well on hard materials. Sometimes stick abrasives (like Degussit) are better, sometimes not.

But the biggest time-saver for making panels of any sort are the sheet metal punches like those offered by Greenlee and others. They can be actuted by a spanner for occasional use and come in a lot of shapes.
For example, the Sub-D connector cutouts and small rectangular cutouts can be made with nearly no corrective work needed.