First DMM?

[Gizzygone]

Good Morning!

I’m sure this may be a fairly common question, but I’ve been researching for a few days now, and can’t come to a conclusion.

I find myself looking for a multimeter from time to time for oddball home projects.  I’m by no means an electronics Guru, but it’s one of those tools that seems nice to have.

I’m hoping somebody can help me choose a DMM based on what I do...


First of all: I’m the “buy it right and buy it once” kind of guy. I know there are plenty of cheap meters to be had, but I want one that is safe, fairly well featured, and long lasting.

Also, though, I have budgets. I know fluke is one of the gold standard brands, but at the same time the 87 is just not in the cards.

I’ve seen the Chinese market flukes touted around, but I know they lack some features (I’m not sure I even need!). Plus I’m not sure if there are even knock-off Fluke Chinese market items out there... so I’m wary as to what to look for.

I also understand that EEV has their own option around, which seems decent, and it’s approaching the higher end of what I want to spend.... but if it’s worth it...


Anyways I’m just a home tinkerer.  I don’t necessarily repair TV’s at the moment, but if I do need to work on a board, I dont want to be fried.   For the most part I find myself wanting a meter to check continuity, voltage (car audio, home electronics), and resistance (again, for home electronics).  Where should I start looking and what features are musts? (True RMS? Graph? Etc)

[drussell]

Seriously consider getting a used Fluke 27/FM.  They are the military-spec version and come up surplus from various armed forces all the time.  They are readily available on places like eBay at very reasonable prices.  You can even get them with the little hard plastic carrying case and accessory kit.

[mtdoc]

Get a Brymen 257 or the EEVblog Brymen 235.

Both are safe meters, with more features than you're likely to need.

[Gizzygone]

Seriously consider getting a used Fluke 27/FM.  They are the military-spec version and come up surplus from various armed forces all the time.  They are readily available on places like eBay at very reasonable prices.  You can even get them with the little hard plastic carrying case and accessory kit.

Any concern with accuracy?  I’ve heard that after a year they need to be recalibrated? Will a used one with unknown history pose any issue?

[Muttley Snickers]

Welcome to the forum.   

It would probably help those offering assistance and guidance if you were able to declare your location and budget so that people don't have to assume anything, your location may also determine which brands/ models and pricing is the best option for your requirements.

[drussell]

Any concern with accuracy?  I’ve heard that after a year they need to be recalibrated? Will a used one with unknown history pose any issue?

No.  Unless you need traceable, certified tracking of your instruments' calibration, you do not need to get any meter regularly calibrated.  They will generally hold their calibration well within spec for decades.

The 27/FM doesn't do things like capacitance, inductance or frequency measurement but you're unlikely to beat the price-performance ratio of these for a Fluke.    A 27/FM makes a great main meter.  You can then have any simple Chinese meter or component tester or LCR meter, etc. for a second meter, component identifier or accurate measurements of reactances, etc. depending on your needs.

[Gizzygone]

Welcome to the forum.   

It would probably help those offering assistance and guidance if you were able to declare your location and budget so that people don't have to assume anything, your location may also determine which brands/ models and pricing is the best option for your requirements.

I’d say my upper limit is $150 comfortably. If there’s reason to bump that up, I can.

I live in the US (Rhode Island)

[Muttley Snickers]

Get a Brymen 257 or the EEVblog Brymen 235.

Both are safe meters, with more features than you're likely to need.

This is good advice and certainly worth consideration.   

[drussell]

Yeah, those Brymen like the 235 are a great meter and well within your budget.

[NivagSwerdna]

AN8008

Put the spare cash towards a scope.

[iainwhite]

EEV (Brymen) 235 is a nice meter for about $125

Fluke 17B (international version) is $150     (the imported chinese version is $135 on eBay)    These are real Flukes made in China, not knockoffs.

Both of the above are Cat rated for home mains use, and also have Capacitance and mA / uA ranges (handy for electronics work).

Check this forum thread: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

Also look for Joe Smith's youtube videos on Handheld Multimeter Life Cycle Testing

If you want a fairly decent cheapo meter, the Aneng 8008 is a common choice, (great for low voltage... I would hesitate to do much mains-rated work with it.)
Check out Dave's video EEVblog #1007 to get his opinion.

 

[HoracioDos]

Get a Brymen 257 or the EEVblog Brymen 235.
Both are safe meters, with more features than you're likely to need.

I own both. They were a little bit expense for me but I don't regret. I'm very happy with them and I learnt a lot. I was scared the first time because good quality equipment behaves different than cheap ones. As it was said before, there is always a new function to discover that I didn't use before.

[malagas_on_fire]

Hi .

If you are from Europe, you can get the uni-t  61e GS / Intertek model, even in local stores, which is supposed to have better input protection, but as joeqsmith tested, he found during it's tests, that they were very fragile to ESD.

The Brymen seems to be have a good relation between price / functions.

[bitseeker]

Get a Brymen 257 or the EEVblog Brymen 235.

Both are safe meters, with more features than you're likely to need.

I’d say my upper limit is $150 comfortably. If there’s reason to bump that up, I can.

I live in the US (Rhode Island)

Welcome, Gizzygone. If you opt for the Brymen 257 (a good choice for many uses), since you're in the US, the Greenlee DM-510A is the same meter (IIRC) and comes with a lifetime limited warranty (they officially rebrand Brymen DMM for the US market). I see that it's currently $147 at Amazon with free shipping.

I have a Greelee DM-820A, essentially a dual-display and higher CAT-rated version of that meter, that I use a lot on my bench and around the house.

[Gizzygone]

Get a Brymen 257 or the EEVblog Brymen 235.

Both are safe meters, with more features than you're likely to need.

I’d say my upper limit is $150 comfortably. If there’s reason to bump that up, I can.

I live in the US (Rhode Island)

Welcome, Gizzygone. If you opt for the Brymen 257 (a good choice for many uses), since you're in the US, the Greenlee DM-510A is the same meter (IIRC) and comes with a lifetime limited warranty (they officially rebrand Brymen DMM for the US market). I see that it's currently $147 at Amazon with free shipping.

I have a Greelee DM-820A, essentially a dual-display and higher CAT-rated version of that meter, that I use a lot on my bench and around the house.

Thanks, I’ll take a look!

That may just be the ticket if it’s as reliable as a fluke!

[xani]

First of all: I’m the “buy it right and buy it once” kind of guy. I know there are plenty of cheap meters to be had, but I want one that is safe, fairly well featured, and long lasting.

Me too, but what I've noticed is that you will rarely know what *exactly* you need from a given piece of equipment till you actually use it for some time.

Like I bought my first meter with PC cable to do datalogging. After playing around a bit I ended up never using it and a bunch of budget went to waste. And for first few years of my dabbling in electronics, something like $25 meter[url] would be entirely okay.

And you will at some point need more than one meter, even just to see current and voltage of the circuit at same time, so it's not like cheapie will go to waste after you get a better one.

So I'd advise to not go crazy and buy something cheap and reasonable *first*, then, once you start hitting limits of what you can do you will know what to buy

I generally for stuff I know I will use I tend to get "good enough and cheap" option and splurge only if I think it will get some use.

But for stuff I'm not sure and I have no clue about I just get a cheapie option and upgrade when I need it. Like getting pack of cheap chinese screwdrivers then buy a nice versions of ones used most.

[rhb]

Not sure where you live.  But if you're in the US I suggest you buy a pack of gum at Harbor Freight and get a free DMM.  With a cal they are good to better than 0.1%.   And you can do the cal with some fresh batteries.  All you need is the right coupon.

I now have two 6.5 digit HP 34401As in addition to the 3478A, but the DMM I use the most is a bottom line HF unit from before they gave them away for which I paid $3 on sale.  Why? It's convenient and good enough 99% of the time.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/habor-freight-giveaway-dmm-test/msg1473132/#msg1473132

I'm going to test them all against the 34401As and and a DMMCheck Plus and then calibrate them some time soon.

If you buy a $3 Chinese AD584JH based voltage reference you'll be all set and have money left over for more exotic toys  when the occasion arises.

I have no idea how many of the bottom end HF DMMs I have.  Between the ones I bought, my dad bought and the ones HF gave me it is well over 2 dozen.  I've had one fail.  I have one in every toolbox in which they might be relevant.

The test probes are fragile, but a bit of hot melt glue where the wire goes into the probe is supposed to solve that.

[_ar_]

As beginner I bought a Brymen BM235 and I can say that I am _very_ pleased with this DMM. Quality built, tons of features and I know that as long as I'm holding the probes I'm safe. Or take a look at the Extechs, they are basically budged Brymens (?) and Dave also commended them before.

[larsdenmark]

There is no such thing as buying only one meter. If you start doing more of this electronics stuff you'll need more meters. If nothing else then just to be able to measure voltage and current at the same time.

Hence I would propose that you get the cheapest you can live with. This will give you an idea of what to buy next time (and by then the prices will have dropped).

A Brymen 235 (or better) will suit you well, but you could also consider a UNI-T - e.g. the 61 or 139 series.

[xani]

Not sure where you live.  But if you're in the US I suggest you buy a pack of gum at Harbor Freight and get a free DMM.  With a cal they are good to better than 0.1%.   And you can do the cal with some fresh batteries.  All you need is the right coupon.

Life is too short for non-autoranging DMM . Also non-fused 10A range is something I'd avoid for someone that's just starting. If I got one for free sure I'd toss it in a toolbox as spare, but I woudn't want to pay for one

The test probes are fragile, but a bit of hot melt glue where the wire goes into the probe is supposed to solve that.

I think that's all cheapish meters, good probes cost more than them for the most part

[mtdoc]

Not sure where you live.  But if you're in the US I suggest you buy a pack of gum at Harbor Freight and get a free DMM. 

I've got several of the HF freebies around. They're fine for throwing in the glove box of your car, checking battery voltages, etc.  And yes, you can use them on an electronics bench if speed and high resolution/ accuracy is not important but they have several short comings.  No continuity buzzer for one.  And they should be kept far away from anything high energy.

Besides, the OP specifically stated:

First of all: I’m the “buy it right and buy it once” kind of guy. I know there are plenty of cheap meters to be had, but I want one that is safe, fairly well featured, and long lasting.

The HF meters are as far away from that as you can get.

[rhb]

Not sure where you live.  But if you're in the US I suggest you buy a pack of gum at Harbor Freight and get a free DMM.  With a cal they are good to better than 0.1%.   And you can do the cal with some fresh batteries.  All you need is the right coupon.

Life is too short for non-autoranging DMM . Also non-fused 10A range is something I'd avoid for someone that's just starting. If I got one for free sure I'd toss it in a toolbox as spare, but I woudn't want to pay for one

The test probes are fragile, but a bit of hot melt glue where the wire goes into the probe is supposed to solve that.

I think that's all cheapish meters, good probes cost more than them for the most part

The 10 A range is fused.  These are the modern equivalent of a Fluke 8000A except for not being rated to 1200 V.  Beginners should not be playing with high voltages, so that hardly matters.

A beginner should be conscious at *all* times of what they expect the meter to read.  A manual ranging meter encourages developing safe work habits.  Autoranging meters tend to encourage just poking the probes in.  That can get very spectacular if it's a CRT or microwave oven  HV section no matter what DMM you're using.

A well equipped electronics test bench is not cheap.  I've got more of the HF units that I can count (or find).  I've had only one fail.  A 34401A certainly meets the OP's requirements, but I think all would agree it's rather overkill for a beginner.

The HF DMMs are one of the few Chinese T&M devices I don't dislike.

By the time you add up a DMM, DSO, AWG and PSU it's not cheap.  You can fix a lot of things with just a DMM, but you *really* need to know what you're doing to be able to do that.

I just thought I should point out that a DMM is like your first shot of heroin.  After that you want more.  The TEA thread is testimony to that problem.  So buying more than you need at any stage is questionable.  And it's pretty hard to beat free.

[innkeeper]

The HF meters are as far away from that as you can get.

not that I am recommending this meter .. just showing that some harbor fright stuff is less crappier then other harbor fright items.

https://www.harborfreight.com/electricians-hvac-contractor-trms-multimeter-64019.html

[james_s]

The free HF meters are great for keeping in the car in case you need to do a little roadside troubleshooting, at least if you drive old/high mileage cars like I do. I wouldn't get one as a first or only meter though, they are not what I would consider safe for use on mains voltage. While it's hard to go wrong with a Fluke, there are lots of other options. Just make sure you get something that is safely designed, especially as a beginner it's easy to do something like try to measure 120V with the meter set up to measure current.

[ttelectronic]

Been quite happy with the BM235