I'm not sure about the book sorry, never seen it (but most of the books I have seen are basically just maths, so to each their own).
Assuming you have the equipment, I think most of optics is just about being super careful about everything. Know your tolerances for everything beforehand and get instruments that can measure them (ie vernier calipers instead of a ruler, a many digit bench dmm instead of a handheld). Then, you just go one step at a time and check all of your previous measurements as you go. If something is out of tolerance, stop and think about why. Then either go back a step, or start again. Don't force any screws and don't bash things in; think about why things are happening. I hope you don't find this belittling or insulting, I'm just trying to stress that this sort of stuff brings precision and carefulness to a whole new level.
If you're doing fluid mechanics, you probably have some background in CAD design. I've found it useful in the past to draw the entire thing beforehand and assemble it in inventor/solidworks/whatever.
And don't forget the golden rule: if something isn't working, it's because your assumptions are wrong. Maybe you assumed that the setup wasn't very sensitive to temperature. Maybe you assumed that a 15mA drive current was "about right" for your purposes. Maybe you assumed the beam was 650nm when it is actually 655nm. You get the idea. Apparently a guy nearby to our lab was trying to measure nanometre displacement without a floating optical table and was getting weird results; do you really think that you stamping on the floor has no effect on a nanometre scale?
The normal measuring and marking rules apply; always measure from a single reference face, beware of parallax error, etc. If you need to brush up on these, just go ask your friendly local machinist/fitter&turner.
I would honestly just give it a go, but replace your DPSS laser with a small diode laser and practice doing the alignment. Make sure the colour is similar if possible. If you have an invisible beam (which Nd:YAG is iirc, but I can't work out if your setup has been frequency doubled), get some detector cards:
http://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=296Although, if you actually have a 300W pulsed Nd:YAG, you could probably just see if the beam is there by seeing what stuff is melting
. The lasers I play with are measured in mW and I'm plenty afraid of those