Author Topic: Hakko FX-888 110V -> 230V mod (Read 39404 times)

Torrentula · « **on:** April 23, 2012, 02:23:52 pm »

Is it possible (and by that I mean 'how is it possible') to rewire the transformer board of a 110V Hakko FX-888 to run off 230V mains? (transformer board can be seen at 3:49: !)

You can see the markings on the board saying 230V/110V so I guess in the factory they do just the same and wire it depending on which voltage model is desired.

Thanks

mariush · « **Reply #1 on:** April 23, 2012, 02:47:31 pm »

The small PCB has the trace and hole for the 230v input from transformer, but the transformer supplies has only 0 - 110v and maybe 120v on the solder stations sold for US/Japan

You can just change the transformer inside with a 0-230v one with 24 or 28v / 3-4A on the secondary. A 24v one is about 20 euro: http://de.farnell.com/pro-power/ctfcs100-12/transformer-100va-2-x-12v/dp/1780896

T4P · « **Reply #2 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:15:56 pm »

Quote from: mariush on April 23, 2012, 02:47:31 pm

The small PCB has the trace and hole for the 230v input from transformer, but the transformer supplies has only 0 - 110v and maybe 120v on the solder stations sold for US/Japan

You can just change the transformer inside with a 0-230v one with 24 or 28v / 3-4A on the secondary. A 24v one is about 20 euro: http://de.farnell.com/pro-power/ctfcs100-12/transformer-100va-2-x-12v/dp/1780896

But it needs a another secondary winding which is about 8V i think .

Torrentula · « **Reply #3 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:16:55 pm »

Right didn't consider this.. still it may be worth it because finding a hakko fx-888 in germany for a reasonable price is nearly impossible.

Thanks

IanB · « **Reply #4 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:21:51 pm »

If you purchase a 240 V to 120 V step down converter for your workshop you then have the possibility of buying other cheaper 120 V items from America apart from just the Hakko.

Torrentula · « **Reply #5 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:29:09 pm »

I'm probably searching for the wrong part because every step down transformer I can find costs 200+ € O.o

Spawn · « **Reply #6 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:39:40 pm »

I am totally with IanB there, I am looking for a big step down converter too, the problem is they are quite expensive around here.

But something with 3000W would be really nice, that covers a lot equipment like bench meters and such, this one has nice price but the shipment costs will make it very expensive:
http://www.adaptelec.com/powerbright-svc3000w-110220v-ac-voltage-regulator-3000w-capacity-p-63.html

IanB · « **Reply #7 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:21:04 pm »

I think 3 kW tends to be big and expensive, but I have found 300 W or 500 W transformers for a reasonable price here in the US. 500 W won't support big power tools, but it will support many smaller items like soldering stations.

IanB · « **Reply #8 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:24:21 pm »

Here's an example to give you a price comparison:

http://www.frys.com/product/3696575

Spawn · « **Reply #9 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:32:12 pm »

Quote from: IanB on April 23, 2012, 04:21:04 pm

I think 3 kW tends to be big and expensive

The one I linked is really cheap for Dutch market, a good build 500W one cost more than this 3kW one, I am not sure how good that 3kW one is to be honest but it looks decent. The size won’t matter for me, I would use it as main 110V supply for the bench with couple extra 110V sockets next to 220V ones.

bilko · « **Reply #10 on:** April 23, 2012, 05:06:39 pm »

Most construction sites use 110V power tools for safety reasons. A 3kw ISOLATED 230 to 110V transformer should cost around 50GBP

Torrentula · « **Reply #11 on:** April 23, 2012, 06:37:38 pm »

Hm.. I think amazon is our friend

found several 230V to 110V step down transformers.

nukie · « **Reply #12 on:** April 25, 2012, 12:16:18 am »

On the plus side, you can use the step down/up transformer, whatever your country voltage is, as an isolation transformer for your oscilloscope or power supply.

Zero999 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 25, 2012, 06:16:45 am »

If you just want to run the iron, a cheap auto transformer will do. If you need a general purpose transformer for running other appliances off, the you could get an isolation transformer with a twin 120V secondary which can be used to power 240V stuff too. Put it in a nice enclosure, with a switch to select between 120V US sockets or 230V European sockets.

Miles Teg · « **Reply #14 on:** May 11, 2012, 09:07:38 pm »

Hello,

What a shame! I bought a FX888 from ebay without checking the power rating. So I'm now with an useless FX888 120V in France (220V-50Hz) $:-\$

So tomorrow I will go looking for a correctly sized transformer in my electronic shop around.

But could you confirm that's a 24V rail needed on secondary?

Thanks

mariush · « **Reply #15 on:** May 11, 2012, 09:23:49 pm »

You should open it up and see what's written on it. If I remember correctly someone was saying the transformer has a 24v secondary AND a 8v (aproximately) secondary. so you may need two transformers or you may have an easier job getting a 230v to 120v converter.

Miles Teg · « **Reply #16 on:** May 11, 2012, 09:31:55 pm »

My trafo is only written:
FX888B
M AF2
1B98A

There is 3 pins for primary and 3 pins for secondary.
For each side, only 2 pins are connected.
So my guess is a 2x12V used as a 24V.
As the 2 external pin on secondary are connected (central is free).

IanB · « **Reply #17 on:** May 11, 2012, 09:39:32 pm »

A common suggestion higher in the thread is to find an external 120 V isolation transformer, such as would be used on a construction site for 120 V power tools. Apparently such transformers can sometimes be found quite cheaply.

Miles Teg · « **Reply #18 on:** May 11, 2012, 09:43:51 pm »

Hum... yes, but I prefer the internal way of life

External supply will be my last solution, and anyway, the genuine trafo is already removed from my FX888 (to find a correct size trafo)

And I'm worrying about frequency. I'm not sure if the 120V trafo is 60Hz only or 60/50Hz. If 60Hz only, it will be subject to overheating or humming, and as we know that this trafo is a little bit undersized because not pulled 100%time.

LEECH666 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 12, 2012, 01:20:16 am »

Any reason why it has to be a Hakko?
Weller and Ersa are more widespread in Germany and they do make good soldering stations.
For example the WECP-20 from Weller is a decent iron with temperature control, and it usually sells for 50 to 70 Euros on ebay.

Florian

T4P · « **Reply #20 on:** May 12, 2012, 07:45:02 am »

Quote from: LEECH666 on May 12, 2012, 01:20:16 am

Any reason why it has to be a Hakko?
Weller and Ersa are more widespread in Germany and they do make good soldering stations.
For example the WECP-20 from Weller is a decent iron with temperature control, and it usually sells for 50 to 70 Euros on ebay.

Florian

Weller... They are having problems with quality recently.
Ersa... Expensive.

G7PSK · « **Reply #21 on:** May 12, 2012, 08:17:33 am »

Instead of looking for step down transformers look for site safety transformers they can be got quite cheaply new and as site safty officers will condemn them for having the socket covers broken which happens easily and often you will often find them in skips or be able purchase one very cheaply from a large building site. The link is for one that costs £38.99 plus VAT making it a total of here in the UK £46.79 and this is for a 3.3 KW unit You hunt around and you might find this as a delivered price I always recon to pay around the £50.00 mark delivered for my transformers.

http://www.toolbaydirect.co.uk/catalogue/product/Transformers/249/Misc-33kVA-Dual-Outlet-240v-to-110v-Portable-Site-Transformer/175254/

M. András · « **Reply #22 on:** May 12, 2012, 08:37:39 am »

Quote from: Dave.S on May 12, 2012, 07:45:02 am

Quote from: LEECH666 on May 12, 2012, 01:20:16 am
Any reason why it has to be a Hakko?
Weller and Ersa are more widespread in Germany and they do make good soldering stations.
For example the WECP-20 from Weller is a decent iron with temperature control, and it usually sells for 50 to 70 Euros on ebay.

Florian

Weller... They are having problems with quality recently.
Ersa... Expensive.

add jbc too, all of them expensive

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 23, 2012, 10:23:15 am »

This topic brought a question to mind:

Will a Hakko FX888 120V/60Hz safely run on 50Hz AC power, as would happen if plugged into a 230V - 120V stepdown transformer? Will the difference in AC frequency have any ill effects on it?

T4P · « **Reply #24 on:** May 23, 2012, 02:20:18 pm »

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 23, 2012, 10:23:15 am

This topic brought a question to mind:

Will a Hakko FX888 120V/60Hz safely run on 50Hz AC power, as would happen if plugged into a 230V - 120V stepdown transformer? Will the difference in AC frequency have any ill effects on it?

The internal xfmr might overheat badly if spec'd to run on 60Hz and not 50Hz ...

saturation · « **Reply #25 on:** May 23, 2012, 03:01:46 pm »

DaveXRQ is right, it may not be apparent until when you start using the unit more frequently.

http://sound.westhost.com/articles/50-60hz.htm#s40

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 23, 2012, 10:23:15 am

This topic brought a question to mind:

Will a Hakko FX888 120V/60Hz safely run on 50Hz AC power, as would happen if plugged into a 230V - 120V stepdown transformer? Will the difference in AC frequency have any ill effects on it?

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 23, 2012, 07:42:52 pm »

Well, does anyone know if the 120v FX888 transformer is spec'd to run at both freqs, or just at 60Hz?

Also, here's a previous quote from another member:

Quote

If you just want to run the iron, a cheap auto transformer will do.

I take it then that this information is false?

saturation · « **Reply #27 on:** May 23, 2012, 09:23:30 pm »

No, sorry. The restrictions may also explain why the 120V fx888 is cheaper, higher frequency transformers are a bit cheaper to make compared to lower frequency.

Theoretically you can run a 50 Hz transformer at 60 Hz without issue, and its formally posted on the 230V units.

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 23, 2012, 07:42:52 pm

Well, does anyone know if the 120v FX888 transformer is spec'd to run at both freqs, or just at 60Hz?

Also, here's a previous quote from another member:

Quote
If you just want to run the iron, a cheap auto transformer will do.

I take it then that this information is false?

Its not strictly false as in wrong, because its possible the Hakko transformer can take it, as the duty cycle during use will unlikely approach 100%, unless you are soldering like mad. But its not preferred. The good news is you'll easily feel transformers overheating, they rarely ever run too hot to touch aka, > 50^oC. Not using the transformer at 100% is akin to derating it to the actual duty cycle during use, so its possible you could get away with a variac dialed down to 120V if you aren't a heavy user, i.e., the red light stays on perpetually rather than blinking.

http://www.edn.com/blog/PowerSource/36244-Specifying_a_Transformer_Why_does_50Hz_make_such_a_difference_.php

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 23, 2012, 11:24:32 pm »

Great... so using a step down autotransformer 230v - 110v is still not good enough because it will be running at 50Hz?

Wish I had become aware of this before actually buying the Iron. I had become convinced it wasn't a problem especially after reading several other replies stating it was safe...
Ok, suppose it is run at 105v 50Hz? Will that mitigate any possible overheating??

As an alternative, where can I get a replacement internal transformer for the Hakko?

RCMR · « **Reply #29 on:** May 24, 2012, 12:16:59 am »

I'm running my 110V/60Hz Hakko FX-888 through a step-down transformer 230->110 @50Hz and the base unit runs barely warm to the touch, even after prolonged use.

I don't think the frequency issue is a problem.

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 24, 2012, 12:51:33 am »

Thanks! Really appreciate it! That's good to know

Uncle Vernon · « **Reply #31 on:** May 24, 2012, 01:44:47 am »

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 23, 2012, 11:24:32 pm

Great... so using a step down autotransformer 230v - 110v is still not good enough because it will be running at 50Hz?

Possibly it depends on the ratings of each component.

Quote

Wish I had become aware of this before actually buying the Iron. I had become convinced it wasn't a problem especially after reading several other replies stating it was safe...

Safety is relative. The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer,

Quote

Ok, suppose it is run at 105v 50Hz? Will that mitigate any possible overheating??
Quote
Ohms law will probably get you. Reduce the voltage and the current required goes up.

Quote
As an alternative, where can I get a replacement internal transformer for the Hakko?
From Hakko if you want a drop in replacement, which will probably cost near the price of a complete iron if available. Otherwise all you need to do is find a good quality TX that closely meets electrical and physical specifications.

An external TX is probably the best solution for the iron 110V unit you have, what you have to watch is the tolerances of TX and the Hakko. A cheap, poorly regulated or unsafe TX will likely end in tears a good one should work but will still be a PITA.

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 24, 2012, 10:00:15 am »

Quote

The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer

What exactly does "correctly rated" mean? I have 3 step down auto transformers. One of them can even be regulated according to input voltage for 188-212v, 212-238v or 238-260v. Given Portugal's mains voltage to be 245v (don't know why, supposed to be 230v), I can have the TX output 105v, 120v or 130v.

T4P · « **Reply #33 on:** May 24, 2012, 10:41:37 am »

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 24, 2012, 10:00:15 am

Quote
The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer

What exactly does "correctly rated" mean? I have 3 step down auto transformers. One of them can even be regulated according to input voltage for 188-212v, 212-238v or 238-260v. Given Portugal's mains voltage to be 245v (don't know why, supposed to be 230v), I can have the TX output 105v, 120v or 130v.

No . 50Hz and 60Hz
All 50Hz equipment works fine with 60Hz but not vice versa.

vk6zgo · « **Reply #34 on:** May 24, 2012, 11:43:29 am »

Quote from: DaveXRQ on May 24, 2012, 10:41:37 am

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 24, 2012, 10:00:15 am
Quote
The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer

What exactly does "correctly rated" mean? I have 3 step down auto transformers. One of them can even be regulated according to input voltage for 188-212v, 212-238v or 238-260v. Given Portugal's mains voltage to be 245v (don't know why, supposed to be 230v), I can have the TX output 105v, 120v or 130v.

No . 50Hz and 60Hz
All 50Hz equipment works fine with 60Hz but not vice versa.

I don't think a soldering iron is going to be so heavily loaded that the extra losses incurred by the use of 50Hz will be a real problem,unless the internal transformer is very poorly specified.

A lot of North American & Japanese origin stuff is in use in 50Hz countries,without having been specially designed for that frequency in the first place.
High power stuff,like,for instance Ham Linear amplifiers,is sometimes offered with the option of US 240v 60Hz.or
Aus/Europe,etc, 240v 50Hz transformers,but small stuff seldom will be a problem.

T4P · « **Reply #35 on:** May 24, 2012, 12:33:10 pm »

Quote from: vk6zgo on May 24, 2012, 11:43:29 am

Quote from: DaveXRQ on May 24, 2012, 10:41:37 am
Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 24, 2012, 10:00:15 am
Quote
The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer

What exactly does "correctly rated" mean? I have 3 step down auto transformers. One of them can even be regulated according to input voltage for 188-212v, 212-238v or 238-260v. Given Portugal's mains voltage to be 245v (don't know why, supposed to be 230v), I can have the TX output 105v, 120v or 130v.

No . 50Hz and 60Hz
All 50Hz equipment works fine with 60Hz but not vice versa.

I don't think a soldering iron is going to be so heavily loaded that the extra losses incurred by the use of 50Hz will be a real problem,unless the internal transformer is very poorly specified.

A lot of North American & Japanese origin stuff is in use in 50Hz countries,without having been specially designed for that frequency in the first place.
High power stuff,like,for instance Ham Linear amplifiers,is sometimes offered with the option of US 240v 60Hz.or
Aus/Europe,etc, 240v 50Hz transformers,but small stuff seldom will be a problem.

Yeah not a problem unless maybe some china stuff

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 24, 2012, 01:32:48 pm »

Here's an ebay link to the exact model I have of the 3 tap auto transformer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TODD-SYSTEMS-SD-33-LRG-3-TAP-STEPDOWN-AUTO-TRANSFORMER-188-260-105v-/190680692692

The other two I have are from the same brand but different model.

Uncle Vernon · « **Reply #37 on:** May 24, 2012, 03:08:23 pm »

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 24, 2012, 10:00:15 am

Quote
The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer

What exactly does "correctly rated" mean?

Oh maybe sufficient secondary amps, correct secondary voltage, all for continuous operation at the intended operating temperatures. Sound correct to you?

Quote from: vk6zgo on May 24, 2012, 11:43:29 am

I don't think a soldering iron is going to be so heavily loaded that the extra losses incurred by the use of 50Hz will be a real problem,unless the internal transformer is very poorly specified.

A lot of North American & Japanese origin stuff is in use in 50Hz countries,without having been specially designed for that frequency in the first place.
High power stuff,like,for instance Ham Linear amplifiers,is sometimes offered with the option of US 240v 60Hz.or
Aus/Europe,etc, 240v 50Hz transformers,but small stuff seldom will be a problem.

Pretty much it! Most smaller stuff will have sufficient tolerance. The harder equipment runs the more the frequency difference is likely to be an issue. The iron would unlikely be an issue.

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 24, 2012, 06:47:10 pm »

Quote

Sound correct to you?

Yes it does. Thank you.
Also, if you check my previous reply you can see a link to one of the transformers I have, with the specs shown.

Zero999 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 24, 2012, 10:12:15 pm »

Quote from: DaveXRQ on May 24, 2012, 10:41:37 am

Quote from: Architect_1077 on May 24, 2012, 10:00:15 am
Quote
The thing is not going to blow up in your face if used with a correctly rated stepdown transformer

What exactly does "correctly rated" mean? I have 3 step down auto transformers. One of them can even be regulated according to input voltage for 188-212v, 212-238v or 238-260v. Given Portugal's mains voltage to be 245v (don't know why, supposed to be 230v), I can have the TX output 105v, 120v or 130v.

No . 50Hz and 60Hz
All 50Hz equipment works fine with 60Hz but not vice versa.

No, any transformer which will work at 20% higher than the rated voltage will be fine at 20% lower frequency, so long as the rated voltage isn't exceeded.

Miles Teg · « **Reply #40 on:** June 01, 2012, 11:23:06 pm »

Hello!

I get my 220V - 2X12V - 26VA transformer.

Could you check my new wiring?
I'm mainly concern about the center point for transformer secondary, as it get 4 poles instead of 3.
So i guess I could gather the 2 center pins and get a total of 24V on extrem pins.
Right?

Tube_Dude · « **Reply #41 on:** June 01, 2012, 11:50:55 pm »

As it is better to be safer than sorry, why not to disconnect the secondary wiring to the PCB , and measure if you have 24 V AC, with the mains connected to primary
...

Miles Teg · « **Reply #42 on:** June 02, 2012, 09:50:52 am »

Ha yes, good idea, thank you.

So tested, give 27V. Solder again to Hakko main board, plug the iron, and it works!!

T4P · « **Reply #43 on:** June 02, 2012, 11:10:01 am »

Quote from: Miles Teg on June 02, 2012, 09:50:52 am

Ha yes, good idea, thank you.

So tested, give 27V. Solder again to Hakko main board, plug the iron, and it works!!

26VA ? O.o

What's the voltage taps on the original xfmr? 24 and something or just 24 CT ?

Miles Teg · « **Reply #44 on:** June 04, 2012, 07:44:00 pm »

26 VA. I guess from other advice, power delivery was around 25-30VA.

On other tips of another FW888 user, the secondary voltage without load was 27V and 24V with load.

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #45 on:** June 04, 2012, 07:57:41 pm »

Miles, a 26VA transformer is not enough. You'd need something more like a 100VA transformer, depending on the power factor.

A device's actual power is less than it's apparent power (it's VA rating).

T4P · « **Reply #46 on:** June 05, 2012, 04:43:35 am »

The original transformer is like 80VA for obvious reasons.
You're gonna begin complaining how you do not have enough thermal capacity because basically you are only getting 20W the original heater is 70W!

Uncle Vernon · « **Reply #47 on:** June 05, 2012, 05:18:31 am »

Quote from: Architect_1077 on June 04, 2012, 07:57:41 pm

Miles, a 26VA transformer is not enough. You'd need something more like a 100VA transformer, depending on the power factor.

A device's actual power is less than it's apparent power (it's VA rating).

That transformer looks a little larger than 26VA. I could be wrong! If it was in fact 26VA rated you would expect the voltage to have dropped and or the thing getting very hot when the iron was drawing current. I think Miles may have misquoted the ratings of his mystery transformer. Maybe he can point to a data sheet for it.

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #48 on:** June 05, 2012, 10:43:19 am »

Quote

That transformer looks a little larger than 26VA. I could be wrong! If it was in fact 26VA rated you would expect the voltage to have dropped and or the thing getting very hot when the iron was drawing current. I think Miles may have misquoted the ratings of his mystery transformer. Maybe he can point to a data sheet for it.

Yeah, you could be right.

Miles Teg · « **Reply #49 on:** June 06, 2012, 10:13:03 pm »

I'm not worrying of using a new 26VA transformer only.

I got another advice here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/hakko-fx-888-teardown-review/msg59331/#msg59331

And my new transformer got mostly same size than old one. And it is working fine.

Uncle Vernon · « **Reply #50 on:** June 06, 2012, 11:49:15 pm »

Quote from: Miles Teg on June 06, 2012, 10:13:03 pm

I'm not worrying of using a new 26VA transformer only.

How did you ascertain your replacement transformer was rated at 26VA?

Miles Teg · « **Reply #51 on:** June 07, 2012, 12:05:55 am »

It was written on it.

http://www.electronique-diffusion.fr/product_info.php?products_id=981

But on constructor catalog, by checking size, seems to be a 30VA.

http://www.crovisa.com/base/conven.pdf

T4P · « **Reply #52 on:** June 07, 2012, 10:44:04 am »

Then you can watch your FX-888 burn down

If it was truly 30VA then things is going to get disastrous

Miles Teg · « **Reply #53 on:** June 07, 2012, 05:09:25 pm »

Sorry I don't understand.

Are you sure the original transfo is more than 30VA?
I should think 30VA is enough as power consumption is burst only.
and the 70W of rating label is the peak consumption.

T4P · « **Reply #54 on:** June 07, 2012, 05:30:54 pm »

Quote from: Miles Teg on June 07, 2012, 05:09:25 pm

Sorry I don't understand.

Are you sure the original transfo is more than 30VA?
I should think 30VA is enough as power consumption is burst only.
and the 70W of rating label is the peak consumption.

NO JUST NO. It's much larger then a 50VA tranny ( I have two of them to prove my point ) so it's about 80VA

80VA is not just burst, if it's burst then big problems the transformer would have been cooked eventually ( Do you even know the 888 just like the 936 doesn't cycle the heater on and off on start? As with any soldering station? )
If you measure the heater resistance it will give about 2.9ohms +/- and mind you they do really want to draw 70W full power from the transformer

Miles Teg · « **Reply #55 on:** June 07, 2012, 09:39:17 pm »

So I need a new transfo. But I don't know how to find better power output in same size.

Architect_1077 · « **Reply #56 on:** June 07, 2012, 09:50:30 pm »

Someone else mentioned this transformer:

http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/ctfcs100-12/transformer-100va-2-x-12v/dp/1780896

I don't know (yet) whether or not this one could in fact replace the original Hakko tx. That's something you'll have to figure out.

Stephen Hill · « **Reply #57 on:** June 07, 2012, 10:10:35 pm »

Another completely different option might be to buy a Variac. Not only could you run your Iron from it, it might be handy for other applications.

eternal_noob · « **Reply #58 on:** June 10, 2012, 12:44:17 pm »

Quote from: DaveXRQ on June 07, 2012, 05:30:54 pm

NO JUST NO. It's much larger then a 50VA tranny ( I have two of them to prove my point ) so it's about 80VA

80VA is not just burst, if it's burst then big problems the transformer would have been cooked eventually ( Do you even know the 888 just like the 936 doesn't cycle the heater on and off on start? As with any soldering station? )
If you measure the heater resistance it will give about 2.9ohms +/- and mind you they do really want to draw 70W full power from the transformer

You simply can't ''pack'' 80VA into a transformer of the size that's in the FX888! The 30Va transformer that Miles Teg put in his station will work just fine as long it has a good load regulation, and it does. I have modded a 936 clone with a 50VA transformer and it runs cool like it has no load at all. 80VA? NO!!
Miles... Your transformer is good to go, but I would have made a bracket to support the other side of the transformer so it doesn't break off from the cast iron (or whatever it is) base and cause short.

T4P · « **Reply #59 on:** June 10, 2012, 05:00:01 pm »

Well then how does hakko get the 70W operation power on the iron? Fake? Somebody measured peak easily at 60W ( which means beyond 70W easily ) on his/her FX-888
The 936 uses a 60VA tranny inside (You probably bought a Atten 936b which uses a 35W element)

IanB · « **Reply #60 on:** June 10, 2012, 05:27:14 pm »

Quote from: DaveXRQ on June 10, 2012, 05:00:01 pm

Well then how does hakko get the 70W operation power on the iron? Fake? Somebody measured peak easily at 60W ( which means beyond 70W easily ) on his/her FX-888
The 936 uses a 60VA tranny inside (You probably bought a Atten 936b which uses a 35W element)

It's perfectly easy to get an instantaneous 70 W out of a transformer rated at 30-50 VA. You just draw as much current as the load needs and let the transformer do its thing.

Now what will happen if you do this continuously without a rest is the transformer will get warm and eventually perhaps too warm.

However, the VA rating on a transformer is for continuous output, not peak output. If you draw 70 W intermittently with gaps in between, the average load will be much lower. As long as the average load is consistent with the continuous output rating you will be fine. The way a soldering station works it does not keep the transformer on full output for more than 2-3 minutes at a time. If it kept the transformer on full output for 15 minutes you would be in trouble, but that doesn't happen.

So if the replacement transformer in an FX-888 is the same physical size, then it's basically going to have the same VA rating as the original and should be perfectly fine.

T4P · « **Reply #61 on:** June 10, 2012, 06:00:05 pm »

But what's the actual VA rating of the original FX-888 ?

IanB · « **Reply #62 on:** June 10, 2012, 06:16:59 pm »

Quote from: DaveXRQ on June 10, 2012, 06:00:05 pm

But what's the actual VA rating of the original FX-888 ?

Unless we have a transformer make or model number, or unless it is written on the transformer, there is no way to know.

Someone could probably estimate it given measurements of the core size and windings, but I am not in a position to do that.

eternal_noob · « **Reply #63 on:** June 10, 2012, 07:11:47 pm »

Quote from: IanB on June 10, 2012, 05:27:14 pm

It's perfectly easy to get an instantaneous 70 W out of a transformer rated at 30-50 VA. You just draw as much current as the load needs and let the transformer do its thing.

And to expand on that a little bit.
To achieve that, they go down on the number of turns on the primary, which means higher current through it, and thereby forcing the secondary to deliver more (if the wire thickness allows it to), which again means that the transformer automatically gets better self-regulating properties also. But, the transformer core needs to be able to handle the increased current, so they use High Flux Density cores for this.
A ''stiff'' (good self regulation) transformer, typical 10 percent or better is easily recognized by a low DC resistance primary with solid enameled wire, compared to others of the same size. And, if someone noticed the voltage drop on Miles' new transformer, he has just got one of the stiff ones in his '888.

I'm actually tempted to write Miles a PM and ask if he can fix a transformer for me.

eternal_noob · « **Reply #64 on:** June 10, 2012, 07:21:54 pm »

Quote from: IanB on June 10, 2012, 06:16:59 pm

Quote from: DaveXRQ on June 10, 2012, 06:00:05 pm
But what's the actual VA rating of the original FX-888 ?

Unless we have a transformer make or model number, or unless it is written on the transformer, there is no way to know.

Someone could probably estimate it given measurements of the core size and windings, but I am not in a position to do that.

Read Berts answer here:
http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111102061157AAjsq4T

analogix · « **Reply #65 on:** December 05, 2017, 07:46:22 am »

Sorry to bump this thread seeing it's more than 5 years old, but I just came across someone selling a 110V version of the FX888D cheaply whereas household voltage is 230V here.

One option I didn't see mentioned is if Hakko themselves have been contacted to ask if they sell a genuine Hakko 220/240V transformer as a spare part, and how much that would cost?

stevelup · « **Reply #66 on:** December 05, 2017, 08:32:04 am »

You could try Dancap:-

http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/soldering.htm

But how cheap is cheap? Is it really worth the hassle compared with buying a Euro model?

mariush · « **Reply #67 on:** December 05, 2017, 04:33:36 pm »

Batterfly sells the 230v version for 100 euro : https://www.batterfly.com/shop/hakko_fx-888d

If he can buy the US version for let's say 50$ plus 20$ or so shipping making it around 70-80 euro, it would be worth it.

I would probably say don't bother trying to get original transformer, generally the replacement parts are quite expensive.

You should be able to fit a 50VA toroidal transformer in the space and the voltage should also not be that critical - ideally you want 24v AC if I remember correctly, but it should be fine with 20v AC or 22v AC as well ( if you get a transformer with 2 x 10v AC secondary windings)

Lower AC voltage will just make the heating element heat slower (but 20v AC vs 24v AC it's not a huge difference), same with the lower VA rating but it's less important since you won't use the soldering iron at very high temperature settings most of the time and you're not gonna solder super thick stuff so your soldering iron won't need to pump loads of energy in the tip to recover (to counteract the metals acting as heatsink for the iron tip)

Here's an example :

24v (2 x 12) 50VA 33mm tall , 82mm diameter , 12.5 uk pounds : http://uk.farnell.com/vigortronix/vtx-146-050-212/50va-toroidal-transformer-2x12v/dp/2817651
24v (2 x 12) 60VA 34mm tall , 85mm diameter , 14 uk pounds : http://uk.farnell.com/vigortronix/vtx-146-060-212/60va-toroidal-transformer-2x12v/dp/2817658

24v 50VA 35x85 , 10.4 euro : https://www.tme.eu/en/details/tst50w_24v/toroidal-transformers/indel/tst50013/
24v 60VA 37x85 , 11.6 euro : https://www.tme.eu/en/details/tst60w_24v/toroidal-transformers/indel/tst60011/

24v 50VA 38x78 , 12.18 euro : https://www.tme.eu/en/details/tts50_z230_24v/toroidal-transformers/breve-tufvassons/
24v 60VA 40x80 , 13.39 euro : https://www.tme.eu/en/details/tts60_z230_24v/toroidal-transformers/breve-tufvassons/

The last two are probably the best since they're less tall by half a cm, maybe they'll fit better inside.

stevelup · « **Reply #68 on:** December 05, 2017, 07:41:53 pm »

It isn't worth it though is it?

You save €20, then have to mess around changing the transformer. Completely pointless in my opinion.


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Author Topic: Hakko FX-888 110V -> 230V mod (Read 39404 times)

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