Hakko FX-888 or Aoyue 937?

[smugtronix]

Hey all!
That's it, I've had it with my RadioShack iron, and it's time to go big. I've narrowed my choices down to either the Hakko FX-888 or the Aoyue 937. The Hakko sells for $80,and the Aoyue sells for about $55. Now, being a poor student, I would consider the Aoyue first based on price. However, I'm willing to buy the Hakko, if it really is that much better.
How do the two stack up against each other? Is there a huge difference between the two? Should I cheap out on the Aoyue, or jump straight to the Hakko?
Thanks!
Ross

[glicos]

Go for the Hakko....experience wise, it is more rebust than Aoyue...

[David_AVD]

I've used Hakko and clone stations. The Hakko have always been better (more reliable and better performance).  $80 is cheap - the FX-888 is pushing $200 in Oz.

[nanofrog]

And it's Hakko by a mile... 

[glee]

I've never tried the Aoyue but bought a Hakko based on Dave's recommendation a few months ago. I'm very happy with it.

[T4P]

Want to know why the "937" is "cheap"? It's only 35W. The hakko is twice that.
Aoyue's got decent quality but their products is priced a notch above the others

[smugtronix]

Thanks everybody! To be honest, I was going to buy the Hakko anyways, this was more a method to see if anyone would talk me out of it!
The Hakko is a solid investment, and because I can buy it through Amazon, I can support Dave! Everyone wins.

[Jimmy the Squid]

I have the 937+ which is 45 watts. Its a fine machine with digital temp setting and readout. Solidly built, and has given me no problems. But as much as I like it, I think the Hakko is definitely the better choice, and worth the extra $30 if you have it. My next solder station will be a Hakko - maybe when the wifey's not paying attention...

[tims]

Hi

Beginner here!  I'm looking at a FX-888 from ebay.  My mains is 230v but the seller only has a 220v available - would this be OK to use at my higher voltage?

thanks

[nanofrog]

Hi

Beginner here!  I'm looking at a FX-888 from ebay.  My mains is 230v but the seller only has a 220v available - would this be OK to use at my higher voltage?

thanks

Did a little digging, and they have 3 versions based on the transformers they use; 100-110V (P/N B3458), 120V (B3562), and 220-240V (B3491). So you'll be fine. Generally speaking, running a 220V product on a 230V mains socket will be fine anyway (falls in the input V operating range).

On a side note, they created a digital version, FX-888D (http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html). Can't find pricing anywhere, so I'm guessing it's very new.

[ablacon64]

FX-888D seems very good but could not find princing anywhere also.

About the topic, Hakko is well known and has high quality equipment but I like Aoyue too. Although one can't compare 45 with 70W but most of my work can be done with a 40W station so I would pick the 937 just because it's digital.

I plan to buy an Aoyue 2703A+ soon: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120943169282?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Those features on a Hakko would cost maybe more than 1.000 bucks.

[necroscope]

FX-888D seems very good but could not find princing anywhere.

Not sure if it is the model your after but here is a Hakko FX-951 with free shipping for $93US Seems like great value to me. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-ESD-safe-lead-free-220V-digital-HAKKO-FX-951-Soldering-Station-FX-951-rework/586366870.html?biz_type=sitePromo_wto_buyer360_clc&url_type=wto_clc_pic&crm_mtn_tracelog_task_id=15355070&crm_mtn_tracelog_plan_id=860399530&crm_mtn_tracelog_log_id=58590156

[Jimmy the Squid]

FX-888D seems very good but could not find princing anywhere.

Not sure if it is the model your after but here is a Hakko FX-951 with free shipping for $93US Seems like great value to me. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-ESD-safe-lead-free-220V-digital-HAKKO-FX-951-Soldering-Station-FX-951-rework/586366870.html?biz_type=sitePromo_wto_buyer360_clc&url_type=wto_clc_pic&crm_mtn_tracelog_task_id=15355070&crm_mtn_tracelog_plan_id=860399530&crm_mtn_tracelog_log_id=58590156

If that is legit, its a great price. Almost too good to be true. They usually run in the mid 200's USD.

[ablacon64]

If that is legit, its a great price. Almost too good to be true. They usually run in the mid 200's USD.

Great price indeed! I've seen it at least for 230 bucks.

[ablacon64]

Not sure if it is the model your after but here is a Hakko FX-951 with free shipping for $93US Seems like great value to me. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-ESD-safe-lead-free-220V-digital-HAKKO-FX-951-Soldering-Station-FX-951-rework/586366870.html?biz_type=sitePromo_wto_buyer360_clc&url_type=wto_clc_pic&crm_mtn_tracelog_task_id=15355070&crm_mtn_tracelog_plan_id=860399530&crm_mtn_tracelog_log_id=58590156

I'm in Brazil, shipping is about 55 USD.
It's a good price anyway.

[Jimmy the Squid]

Did a bit more research. I don't think the 99USD Chinese version would really stack up well to the original version.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=4482&Page=1

[IanB]

Although one can't compare 45 with 70W but most of my work can be done with a 40W station so I would pick the 937 just because it's digital.

Personally I would pick the Hakko FX-888 over the FX-888D any day of the week. Digital is too fiddly to set and adjust compared to the simple ease of turning a knob.

Digital stations are used in manufacturing settings so they can be locked down where tight industrial process control is required, but they make much less sense for the engineer or home user where ease of adjustment is more important.

[nukie]

FX-888D seems very good but could not find princing anywhere.

Not sure if it is the model your after but here is a Hakko FX-951 with free shipping for $93US Seems like great value to me. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-ESD-safe-lead-free-220V-digital-HAKKO-FX-951-Soldering-Station-FX-951-rework/586366870.html?biz_type=sitePromo_wto_buyer360_clc&url_type=wto_clc_pic&crm_mtn_tracelog_task_id=15355070&crm_mtn_tracelog_plan_id=860399530&crm_mtn_tracelog_log_id=58590156

Oh comon, look at the picture, FX-9501 hand piece??? And look at the poor cable relieve almost falling off the handle. FYI the handpiece you want is FM-2028

[nanofrog]

Digital is too fiddly to set and adjust compared to the simple ease of turning a knob

It would depend on the station IMHO, such as if it has easily selected presets, such as a dedicated button (single push) for the desired temp.

Other features that the FX-888 doesn't offer can be nice, though not critical, such as sleep or reduced power when the iron is returned to the stand to help increase tip life. But these sorts of features add to the price, and it may be more than double (i.e. FX-888 might be ~$80USD, while the FX-951 would be ~$250USD, based on Amazon pricing). Quite a difference, for those and a few other features (heating element in the tip).

But if the bells and whistles can be lived without or the purchaser is on a tight budget, the simpler FX-888 is a more cost effective choice without sacrificing on quality.

[T4P]

The chinese 40bucks(Yes, they only cost 40 bucks! FX-951s are from the older FX-951s the ones without the place into holder sleep thing ( missing the connector )

[smugtronix]

I ended up buying the FX-888, and I like it a lot. It's really impressive to see the difference a good soldering iron makes.
My only complaint is that I think the LED should blink when it heats up, and switch to steady-state when it's ready, but that's nitpicking.

[ablacon64]

Did a bit more research. I don't think the 99USD Chinese version would really stack up well to the original version.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=4482&Page=1

Nice video. I like the sleep function and the tips switching mechanism.

[ptricks]

I have a 937 and the main issue I have with it is the buttons on the front.  The 3 buttons look like they are membrane type, push down switches but they are not. Underneath is your standard tactile switches that are pc board mounted. After a lot of use the plastic that covers the switches in the front tears from the little post of the switch pushing up against it underneath. It doesn't harm the functionality but I had to remove the plastic membrane stuff and extend the shaft on the buttons by about 4mm .  They should have used just regular button covers instead.

Other than that the 937 has worked well and I have used it quite a bit.

[ablacon64]

ptricks, does it have presets?

[Jimmy the Squid]

ptricks, does it have presets?

The 937+ that I have does not have presets. It also doesn't remember you last setting when you turn it off, so you have to enter it again each time you turn it on (it defaults to 200C). Its pretty fast though.

[ptricks]

No presets on mine either, but not really an issue for me .
Not long after my posting I turned on my aoyue 937 and got an error message on the display. I pulled out the meter, checked the pins on the irons cable plug and sure enough one of them was open that connects to the iron. I disassembled the irons heater and pulled out the cable and found the heating element had gone bad, no surprise it has been a really long time since I bought it. It came with a spare but in my moment of impatience to get it working again, I was working on repairing an oscilloscope and just had to get it done, I didn't pay attention to the color of the wires, so when I installed the new heating element I accidentally connected the heater+sensor wires to the element and another pair, heater+sensor to the temp sensor. There are only 5 wires and the 5th is a ground.

I turned on the station and for a second it displayed  200 , then a loud pop and smoke from the station. I quickly pulled the power cord. After cussing for a few minutes I took the station controller apart.  The boards controller chip is a atmel 8051 part. The board has a JRC ADC , and for the temp sensor uses an lm358 op amp. The 8051 feeds a control signal to a fet  that controls the power to the element.  Display digits use a simple 74xxxx driver, Iwas worried I had blown the 8051, it ran code stored in its internal flash, and I had no copy of the firmware.

The part that popped turned out to be  a cap, 10V, 47uf connected to the temp sensor. I guess when I wired wrong it got fed 24VDC and it couldn't take it. I found a replacement and soldered it , flipped the power switch and saw 200 on the display, the iron was getting hot and so I tried increasing the heat to 350. The iron got hotter and hotter but the temp now read 000 and wouldn't increase. I figured I must have killed the ADC or the Lm358 or maybe a port on the 8051. I measured all the chips and support electronics and couldn't find anything wrong.  In a last ditch attempt I thought that maybe the electrolyte from the cap leakage might be the problem so I scrubbed the board down really well. Flipped the switch again , and it worked !

I have to give credit to aoyue on the design. The pc board has all the component values silk screened so even if the part is utterly destroyed like this cap was you can still figure out what to replace it with.  The parts are pretty generic so no problems there either. Only catch might be the firmware on the chip. If I get a chance I plan to dump the firmware for a backup. Someone more familiar with the 8051 could probably add custom code fairly easily.

[ablacon64]

Nice, I like that! I like to be able to fix my tools if I have too, point to Aoyue! I have some YaXun that also does not remember the last setting, but that's not really a problem. Presets are nice if you work with different boards and different kinds of solder.

[nanofrog]

Presets are nice if you work with different boards and different kinds of solder.

Nice for connectors too IMHO. 

[Psi]

There's nothing wrong with Aoyue but Hakko is a higher quality brand.

[T4P]

Good if you can ONLY get a real hakko at very inflated prices compared to the west. You guys have it good there  200 bucks for the FX-888 GOSH!

[tlu]

Ptricks, with only 45W I assume the Aoyue would not be able to do lead-free solder as easily as the Hakko? That was my main concern while choosing between the two. I ended up with the Hakko FX-888 for its built quality and reputation.

I do use an Aoyue 952D+ reflow station and it quite good. Not have a hiccup with it yet. So when came time for a decent iron I had to choose between the Aoyue 937 and Hakko FX-888 and the deciding factor was output power. For me 70W vs 45W was an easy choice.

[IanB]

Ptricks, with only 45W I assume the Aoyue would not be able to do lead-free solder as easily as the Hakko? That was my main concern while choosing between the two. I ended up with the Hakko FX-888 for its built quality and reputation.

I do use an Aoyue 952D+ reflow station and it quite good. Not have a hiccup with it yet. So when came time for a decent iron I had to choose between the Aoyue 937 and Hakko FX-888 and the deciding factor was output power. For me 70W vs 45W was an easy choice.

You made a good choice in picking the Hakko, but do not confuse power with temperature. Power concerns how big a work piece you can solder, while temperature concerns when different kinds of solder melt. A low power iron could do high temperatures, and a high power iron might only do lower temperatures. (Consider for example a typical clothes iron. It has a power of maybe 1000 W but even so it will not melt solder if it is working properly. On other hand a small 25 W soldering iron can melt solder easily.)

By analogy with electricity you could think of temperature as voltage and heating power as current.

An important quality measure in a soldering iron is how well it can control and regulate the tip temperature. High quality irons do this much better than low quality irons. A good iron would be like a regulated power supply, while a cheap iron might behave like an unregulated supply.

[tlu]

IanB, very well put. I was alluding to that point but did not know quite how to explain it. You said basically what I intended to say.

I'm quite satisfied with the Hakko FX-888 and for $69.99 + tax at Fry's Electronics in the states, it was a really good deal.