BTW, I've showed this before. This is what I call a "rosin board." In fact, this is the first one I ever made, and it's still my main one. This is fairly essential for me in my use of CF tips. This has been recently cleaned and resurfaced with fresh rosin. It will get crusted over with dark, burnt rosin and I'll just chisel it off and start over once a year or two. It has also been freshly loaded with solderwire.
For CF2, 2.5, 3, there are many operations where I just want to pick up a big blob of solder from this board, and then make several joints. (Also, you can see it's a convenient place to stick loose components. Just pin them down and hit with hot air for a couple seconds).
For the CF1 or 1.5, it is less common to have that ability. These tips are so small that they don't "steal" solder from the pads, as effectively. If you load them with a big blob, they will generally dump too much of the solder onto the pad/joint (this is perhaps also because you are usually using this tiny tip for very close pitched "weird" stuff like jumper wiring, or whatnot, which will balloon up with too much solder if you allow it). Most of the time, I'm loading these tips with just enough solder to make only 1 intentionally starved joint, at a time. In this case, I find the easiest way to do that is to load up a rosin board with tiny solder balls. Using CF 2-3 tip, melt solder and fling it against the board to break it up into tiny solder balls. Then u can pick up tiny solder ball onto the CF1 tip for each joint. Even the tiniest, almost microscopic solder ball will be useful. The CF tip is a "what goes in, comes out" thing. Whereas, if you picked up a tiny solder ball on a tiny tip that is not a CF, it will just disappear up the shaft and be gone; you will have to apply fine solderwire while soldering the joint (which requires an extra hand!). Prior to discovering/learning how to use CF tips, I recall mastering a method of "freezing" a little odd stringy bit of solder onto the end of a 30AWG bodge wire, then using fine conical tip to reflow this at the fluxed joint (say closely packed scraped vias/joints where you have to avoid reflowing previous joints). It might sound like a lot of work using rosin board and solder balls, but needless to say it is much more efficient in cases such as this.
When doing drag soldering of fine pitch IC, you will also have to load very small, controlled amount of solder to the large CF tips. In this case, I often find a way to just steal some solder from surrounding cap pads to do the work. But if you don't have that available, you can also use the solder ball technique. But I find just loading a 2.5 or 3 CF and then flinging off the bead very thoroughly will often work out without having TOO much solder on there.
BTW, rosin is a great engineering adhesive. The strip of copper clad on the side of the board, for instance, it is held in place only by rosin. I can heat it with hot air station and remove it.
Here's an even better example of rosin as structural glue:
The plate of FR-4 is adhered to the wood underneath, only with rosin. Then the strip of copper clad on the right side, stuck with rosin. The wood tip cleaner is adhered to the FR-4 plate only with rosin. It is very strong, this tree sap. Yet easy to remove and/or reapply using heat, chisel, solvents.
A couple more rosin boards: