Is Velleman VTSS5 a decent soldering iron? (EDIT: Ended up buying Hakko 926)

[JenniferG]

Hello Jennifer,

Now I know your in the US and you need 120v, shipped from US and you may run into SMD in the future.  Here is what I purchased off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-2in1-862D-Soldering-Iron-Welder-Hot-Air-Gun-Rework-Station-Accessories-/191557453776


Now, I know it's 4$ more than your iron, and it is not a top brand, but, it is temperature regulated and you get a hot air gun good for both SMD work and small heat shrink tubing shrinking.

The one I've used has lasted me over 3 years now and for 54$ us, I cant complain as it functions reasonably well with the 2 tips I use and I regularly use the air gun without any nozzle to de-solder & solder smd.

Wow that is fancy looking! And affordable   I do already have a hot air gun though that I bought for the purpose of shrinking heat shrink tube (turned my BF onto it.. he always used a cigarette lighter -- *rolls eyes*).

[JenniferG]

Has anyone done a soldering iron buyer's guide?  Like for a proper one, low budget and higher end.   I am going to do some searching.  Thanks for all the help guys.

[JenniferG]

I'd love to get a proper temperature controlled vintage soldering iron, that was built like a tank and that will last me the rest of my life, at a good discounted price (say from ebay).   Have no clue what to look for though.

[wraper]

Wow that is fancy looking! And affordable   I do already have a hot air gun though that I bought for the purpose of shrinking heat shrink tube (turned my BF onto it.. he always used a cigarette lighter -- *rolls eyes*).

Never buy cheap 2 in 1 stations. You can get much better if buy those separately.

[wraper]

I'd love to get a proper temperature controlled vintage soldering iron, that was built like a tank and that will last me the rest of my life, at a good discounted price (say from ebay).   Have no clue what to look for though.

Please don't. That won't be a good deal. As I wrote earlier, that Bakon 950D is very good for it's money. It will even solder better that genuine Hakko 888D, lower build quality of course. And you can use genuine Hakko T12 cartridges if want to pay a bit more.

[cs.dk]

Just wondering why people spend more on a soldering iron.  I'll read the rest of the replies and try and make sense of it.

When you first try one, you will understand..
I wondered to, as my Yihua and a Weller station did work "fine" - Bought a Metcal, and I can't get my arms down again.. The difference is not easy to describe, but believe me, there is a big wow first time you solder with it. You would not imagine the difference.

[DimitriP]

Fun reading https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/soldering-station-metcal-vs-pace/

[JenniferG]

Thanks guys.  Thinking about grabbing a used Hakko 936 from ebay.  I see some for sell without the iron.

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

[ebastler]

Has anyone done a soldering iron buyer's guide?  Like for a proper one, low budget and higher end.

I am not aware of a buyer's guide, I'm afraid. A few things to look for when you go shopping for a soldering iron/station -- purely based on my personal preference: 

• Comfortable handpiece. The main reason why I treated myself to an ERSA i-Con station last year, although my 30-year old analog station was still going strong. The handpiece is much lighter and more compact. In particular the distance from the grip to the solder tip is much shorter, hence it gives me much better control. The size of various irons is difficult to compare in photographs, and it's of course best to try them on for size anyway. So if you have a brick-and-mortar store within reach, it's worth to compare first hand.
• Flexible and heat-resistant cable (to the handpiece). Standard with the better soldering stations, I think. Some of the budget ones have rather clunky cables which drag on the handpiece. Worst case, they have insulation which does not withstand the heat of the soldering tip if it touches the cable by accident.
• Sturdy holder for the iron, with integrated sponge (or, better IMO, brass wool). I like it as a separate unit, rather than attached to the base, so I can position it within easy reach without it taking up much space. Must be heavy enough not to wander across your bench, and should not wobble or rattle when depositing the iron. The combination of a silicone body and ceramic insert is my personal favorite.
• Convenient controls. Largely a matter of preference: A big quasi-analog knob (encoder) and a digital display, like on the ERSA iCon 1, are perfect for me -- I hate having to press buttons repeatedly to step the temperature up or down. Others may prefer many buttons and presets.
• Rapid heating, preferably with automated standby at lower temperature.
• Easy changing of tips, ideally without tools even if the iron is hot. The plastic-handled nuts on the i-Con iron enable that, for example.
• Wide selection of long-life tips. As mentioned before, the brand tips tend to last much longer than no-names. Some really nice tip shapes are only available for brand irons, to my knowledge -- e.g. the concave "pan" which stores a bit of solder for easy SMD soldering, which is still patent protected.

As you can see, the large majority of these are "human factor" aspects. So, yes, the more expensive soldering stations are a bit of a luxury, and mainly add convenience (rather than enabling things that would otherwise be impossible). Being a hobbyist and far from a full-time professional user, for me it was mainly the satisfaction of using a well-designed tool that made me justify the spend.

[wraper]

Thanks guys.  Thinking about grabbing a used Hakko 936 from ebay.  I see some for sell without the iron.

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

What the point buying knockoff iron and connect it to genuine station? It will work as complete knockoff but for more money. And don't buy used Hakko 936, they are very expensive for what they are.

[RayRay]

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

It looks fine to me, although, the heating element doesn't have the hakko logo on it, so is probably not original.
It'd be fine as long as it's of decent quality though. But on a related side note, getting an original Hakko 936 nowadays is not an easy task!
There are plenty of Chinese replicas of it (who mostly use the A1322 element). You might wanna consider getting the Bakon 950D or Weller WES51/WESD51 instead (analog vs digital model basically)

[JenniferG]

Thanks guys.  Thinking about grabbing a used Hakko 936 from ebay.  I see some for sell without the iron.

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

What the point buying knockoff iron and connect it to genuine station? It will work as complete knockoff but for more money. And don't buy used Hakko 936, they are very expensive for what they are.

What would you suggest other than the $30 portable one? Looking for a station.  I'd get the Hakko FX888D but I don't like the digital interface.  I like to be in control by simply turning a knob, not a machine in control of me that might cost a lot of money later on to calibrate.

[RayRay]

I believe wraper was referring strictly to the iron you've linked to, and not to the station itself!
But regardless, you could easily buy a "knock off" without realizing it (as there are plenty of these around, and it's possible even the seller himself is clueless)

[JenniferG]

I believe wraper was referring strictly to the iron you've linked to, and not to the station itself!
But regardless, you could easily buy a "knock off" without realizing it (as there are plenty of these around, and it's possible even the seller himself is clueless)

Yeah I noticed that too after re-reading and changed my post, just before I read your reply.

[JenniferG]

Well the "knock off" iron looks pretty good and a lot of people buy it. It has a silicone cord.  I asked about it because maybe others have used this "knock off" and feel it is as good as the "real thing".

[JenniferG]

Is that Bakon 950D really that good? I mean it looks a bit awkward/cheap.. but I guess looks can be deceiving. I'd need to order a soldering iron stand for it if I got it.  Any recommendations? I'd like one that holds a sponge.

Does the Bakon 950D have a silicone rubber cord?

[wraper]

But on a related side note, getting an original Hakko 936 nowadays is not an easy task!

If sold new, there is no chance to buy genuine. But there a plenty beaten to the death for $50+ (without iron). Add a little bit more and get new genuine 888D, Sometimes there are discounts in US when they are sold for about $65, usually $90+. As with all Hakko, never buy from China or ebay sellers.
Wondering how big idiot one need to be to bid this much for used 936 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-/162313600315

[JenniferG]

But on a related side note, getting an original Hakko 936 nowadays is not an easy task!

If sold new, there is no chance to buy genuine. But there a plenty beaten to the death for $50+ (without iron). Add a little bit more and get new genuine 888D, Sometimes there are discounts in US when they are sold for about $65, usually $90+. As with all Hakko, never buy from China or ebay sellers.
Wondering how big idiot one need to be to bid this much for used 936 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-/162313600315

I was thinking of the $50 used one in fair condition ( I see a couple).  Along with that knock off $10 iron (if it is good.. the one with silicone cord).. and then acquiring the original stand somehow at a later date for like $10?

THe digital control interface of the 888 doesn't appeal to me.  I rather just turn a knob.

EDIT: wow I just read that bakon 950d is 75w.  I guess because it is using switching power supply instead of linear?  It must work like a dream heating up fast dynamically (to acheive operating temp) as you solder.

[wraper]

Is that Bakon 950D really that good? I mean it looks a bit awkward/cheap.. but I guess looks can be deceiving. I'd need to order a soldering iron stand for it if I got it.  Any recommendations? I'd like one that holds a sponge.

Does the Bakon 950D have a silicone rubber cord?

For it's cost it's very good, there are good reviews but mostly in Russian. And you can always use genuine Hakko T12 cartridge to get Hakko 951 performance as Chinese cartridges are not as good. Or even attach genuine hakko handle (will need to replace connector).
BTW don't forget to buy a chisel cartrige/tip(s). As conical tips are not good for most of the jobs.

[RayRay]

Well, just because a product is a replica of another successful product, it doesn't mean it's of poor quality.
It can definitely be equally good in some cases. Now, back on the main subject, if you want the temperature to be 100% accurate, you'd have to calibrate it (regardless of whether it's analog or digital!). And doing so isn't as expensive as you may think.
You could just get the TM902C+PK1000 (digital thermometer+a high temperature probe) and melt some solder onto the end of it.
Both should cost you around $25 combined. Anyhow, if you wanna turn a knob, get the Weller WES51
But if you wanna save some money, get the Bakon BK950D (It has plenty of positive reviews, especially on Youtube)
You could get it for $25 from Gearbest:
http://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_363024.html?wid=21
And you could also get a pack of tips for $10-13 from Banggood:
http://www.banggood.com/search/t12-tips.html
Either would get the job done quite well.

[JenniferG]

You could just get the TM902C+PK1000 (digital thermometer+a high temperature probe) and melt some solder onto the end of it.

I have an infrared thermometer I could use to measure the surface temp of the tip.

[wraper]

I have an infrared thermometer I could use to measure the surface temp of the tip.

That won't work well.

[JenniferG]

Did a search on the 950d.  I see many are getting "errors".  I am just afraid of it because I don't know how long it'd last.  I am sure it isn't very serviceable at all with the SMPS and tiny footprint -- digital interface etc.

At least the 936 is well documented (schematic & pcb) and it looks like it has a linear power supply from the photos (it's huge).. and I don't know much about electronics but I've made a couple linear power supplies and understand how rectification, filtering & regulating works.

The Hakko 936 is calling out to me.   I am kind of into vintage, bulky, "built like a tank" stuff anyways.  I have a rotary telephone from 1979 sitting here near my desk that rings when I get a phone call for example

[RayRay]

I think it's pretty obvious at this point that you're stuck on the Hakko 936, so there's nothing I (or anyone else) could say to make you change your mind. The Weller WES51 is also bulky btw, but nevermind that.

[JenniferG]

I was considering the WES51 as well, but it's only 50W compared to 60w of 936.  Also read people are having problems with the quality of the Wellers.

No I am not "Stuck on the 936".  But I don't think I want a cheap portable iron with an improper soldering iron holder, probably with a pvc cord, which many people are saying are getting errors.  That one isn't servicable like the 936 is.