Is Velleman VTSS5 a decent soldering iron? (EDIT: Ended up buying Hakko 926)

[JenniferG]

It's the best one I've owned at least.  My local electronics shop recommended it to me as an affordable quality soldering iron.

Just want to know if it's good for everything. I can change the tips out. I get fairly fine pointed tips unlike the Radio Shack beasts.

Power output is adjustable with a pot, but there is no display.  I don't run it at max.

[Marinated]

Just a comment on the interface: don't be distracted by digital displays, knobs are fine. You can see them on high quality stations from Metcal, Weller etc., as well as on the older Hakko FX-888 for example.

There can be psychology at play with digital displays. Sure they might say 375, for example, and it looks good when it settles on that from 374 and 376, but how meaningful is the apparent accuracy? With a cheap station that could be miles away from the actual tip temperature. Obviously there are top quality stations with digital displays around, but they aren't in themselves a necessary feature.

[wraper]

It's a piece of crap made by zhongdi.

[wraper]

Just a comment on the interface: don't be distracted by digital displays, knobs are fine.

If those knobs regulate actual temperature. This crap has just a triac dimmer inside and no temperature control. It is so bad that just about any other soldering iron for it's price will work better.

[Marinated]

I found these images of the interior of the station:





wraper's assessment was was politer than it could have been.

[Refrigerator]

It will work fine once you get the hang of it.
It's only adjustable in terms of power so you would need to adjust the knob according to what your soldering job might require, eg. less power for small pins and more power for big wire.
If you've been using this iron then i think what i said shouldn't be a surprise to you. 

[Zero999]

Just a comment on the interface: don't be distracted by digital displays, knobs are fine.

If those knobs regulate actual temperature. This crap has just a triac dimmer inside and no temperature control. It is so bad that just about any other soldering iron for it's price will work better.

Yes, it's shit. I have one myself. They've been around for a long time. I bought mine from Maplin in the early 2000s. It is just a TRIAC phase controller. The setting will need to be continuously adjusted, depending on what you're doing.

The only thing I will say is, it's still better than a soldering iron which has no power control at all, although it's trivial to implement one with a lamp dimmer switch.

[wraper]

The only thing I will say is, it's still better than a soldering iron which has no power control at all

Actually half decent firestick without any temp control work better IMO.

[Audioguru]

My Weller temperature controlled soldering iron is about 53 years old and still works perfectly. Therefore it has cost me about $1.00 per year. It is still manufactured.

It does not have a light dimmer circuit, instead it uses a magnet and the Curie Principal to control the tip's temperature. The tips are made for various temperatures and I select 700 degrees F. It can idle all day without incinerating the tip but it immediately goes to full blast (60W?) if I solder something huge.

[ebastler]

Jennifer,
It has been implied in the discussion above, but may be worth stating explicitly: You really want a proper temperature-controlled soldering iron, i.e. one with closed-loop control, which measures the actual tip temperature and strives to keep it constant. That way, when you solder to some larger body of metal (ground plane on a PCB, mounting tabs on a jack or switch, larger plugs etc.), the soldering iron automatically applies full power to compensate for the heat sunk by that metal part, and keep the tip at the right temperature.

Whether that closed-loop control is achieved via a temperature sensor at the heating element and adjustable feedback loop, or via the fixed temperature magnetic/Curie effect tips Weller uses, is not a critical difference IMO. Individual preferences vary.

A decent brand soldering iron pays off in the long run, I think. The brand manufacturers offer a wide range of tips, and will still offer compatible tips in 10 and 20 years. Tips also live much longer than the no-name ones without oxidizing, compensating the higher tip cost. Weller, Ersa, JBC, Hakko... are all fine.

[Zero999]

The only thing I will say is, it's still better than a soldering iron which has no power control at all

Actually half decent firestick without any temp control work better IMO.

Well it doesn't. A soldering iron with no temperature control gets too hot, eats tips for breakfast and lifts PCB tracks really easily. The TRIAC controller allows the power output to be reduced so tips last much longer and there's less chance of lifting traces.

If a TRIAC phase controlled soldering iron is all you can afford, then it's much better than an iron with no temperature control at all. Like the original poster, I thought it was good, because all my previous irons had no temperature control, so I didn't know any better. When I started using a decent soldering iron at work, I realised how bad my phase controlled iron is and got myself a decent temperature controlled iron.

I think many people here are spoiled with the professional quality tools they have and often forget that others either can't afford them or justify spending the money yet.

[ebastler]

The TRIAC controller allows the power output to be reduced so tips last much longer and there's less chance of lifting traces.

If a TRIAC phase controlled soldering iron is all you can afford, then it's much better than an iron with no temperature control at all. Like the original poster, I thought it was good, because all my previous irons had no temperature control, so I didn't know any better. When I started using a decent soldering iron at work, I realised how bad my phase controlled iron is and got myself a decent temperature controlled iron.

I think many people here are spoiled with the professional quality tools they have and often forget that others either can't afford them or justify spending the money yet.

But there is a wide price range between the expensive brand name irons and the basic TRIAC controlled ones. You can get no-name soldering stations with proper closed-loop temperature control for not much more than what a TRIAC-controlled iron costs -- and you should, if that's the spend you can afford or justify.

With TRIAC control only, you have to adjust the temperature whenever your soldering "target" changes. And you have to do it all flying blind, because you have no idea what the tip temperature is.

Quick check for beginners, if you don't know what type of iron you have in front of you: Allow for the iron to heat up, then touch the tip to a wet sponge or large metal object and watch the heater control LED. If it has been flashing at intervals before, and turns to full-on once the iron is touching the heat sink, you have a properly temperature-controlled iron.

[wraper]

But there is a wide price range between the expensive brand name irons and the basic TRIAC controlled ones. You can get no-name soldering stations with proper closed-loop temperature control for not much more than what a TRIAC-controlled iron costs -- and you should, if that's the spend you can afford or justify.

+1

With TRIAC control only, you have to adjust the temperature whenever your soldering "target" changes. And you have to do it all flying blind, because you have no idea what the tip temperature is.

And it heats up like forever.

[NottheDan]

Doesn't the Yihua clone 936 have a proper temperature control and runs in the same price range as this one?

[wraper]

This one probably is the best of what you can get for <$40 http://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_363024.html?admitad_uid=b2289f89a101d70ed92a9e4314dd3760
Although 936 knockoffs have proper temperature control, this one is much better as uses Hakko T12 cartriges (clones but original Hakko can be used as well).

[wraper]

Doesn't the Yihua clone 936 have a proper temperature control and runs in the same price range as this one?

Yep, but you can get much better if add a bit more. Still this Yihua will be an order of magnitude better for about the same price.

[Zero999]

But there is a wide price range between the expensive brand name irons and the basic TRIAC controlled ones. You can get no-name soldering stations with proper closed-loop temperature control for not much more than what a TRIAC-controlled iron costs -- and you should, if that's the spend you can afford or justify.

It's been a long time since I checked the price of a new soldering iron and if you can get a closed loop soldering iron for the same price or a little more, then go for it.

At the time I bought mine, I was unaware there were better soldering irons available for not much more.

With TRIAC control only, you have to adjust the temperature whenever your soldering "target" changes. And you have to do it all flying blind, because you have no idea what the tip temperature is.

It's not as bad as you might think for soldering small components. You don't need to know the temperature. After awhile I learned the best dial position for the type of work I was doing. I'd turn it up to full power for it to heat up, then when it was hot enough to melt solder, back down to the appropriate temperature.

I still use it every one and then. It got left at my parent's house, when I moved out. I use it when I need to quickly repair something of my parent's, while I'm there.

[NottheDan]

Doesn't the Yihua clone 936 have a proper temperature control and runs in the same price range as this one?

Yep, but you can get much better if add a bit more. Still this Yihua will be an order of magnitude better for about the same price.

Certainly. But the point I was trying to bring up was that you can do quite a bit better even without adding a bit more.

[BrianHG]

Hello Jennifer,

Now I know your in the US and you need 120v, shipped from US and you may run into SMD in the future.  Here is what I purchased off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-2in1-862D-Soldering-Iron-Welder-Hot-Air-Gun-Rework-Station-Accessories-/191557453776


Now, I know it's 4$ more than your iron, and it is not a top brand, but, it is temperature regulated and you get a hot air gun good for both SMD work and small heat shrink tubing shrinking.

The one I've used has lasted me over 3 years now and for 54$ us, I cant complain as it functions reasonably well with the 2 tips I use and I regularly use the air gun without any nozzle to de-solder & solder smd.

[Audioguru]

Cost? Price? Affordable? A decent soldering iron is not very expensive (money grows on trees) and is a very important tool. Get one. 

[JenniferG]

I found these images of the interior of the station:





wraper's assessment was was politer than it could have been.

Wow, electrical tape? I need to open mine up now and look lol.

[JenniferG]

It will work fine once you get the hang of it.
It's only adjustable in terms of power so you would need to adjust the knob according to what your soldering job might require, eg. less power for small pins and more power for big wire.
If you've been using this iron then i think what i said shouldn't be a surprise to you. 

I solder excellently with it actually. [I've soldered for like 30 years.] I do adjust it down to the lowest temp I can yet still be able to work with the solder easily.  Just wondering why people spend more on a soldering iron.  I'll read the rest of the replies and try and make sense of it.

[JenniferG]

It has been implied in the discussion above, but may be worth stating explicitly: You really want a proper temperature-controlled soldering iron, i.e. one with closed-loop control, which measures the actual tip temperature and strives to keep it constant. That way, when you solder to some larger body of metal (ground plane on a PCB, mounting tabs on a jack or switch, larger plugs etc.), the soldering iron automatically applies full power to compensate for the heat sunk by that metal part, and keep the tip at the right temperature.

Okay, I didn't know this.  Thanks for sharing.  It makes a lot of sense.  Sounds like a great soldering iron.  This is what I want.

[rsjsouza]

How far have we come... For twenty five years I have used regular soldering irons (very similar to these) and was able to assemble a huge variety of circuits with through-hole parts on PCB and even on chassis for my valve projects.

After moving to US I was able to get a Hakko FX888 and a Weller 8200 soldering gun for the more demanding job.

What I am trying to say is that the soldering iron you have will certainly do the vast majority of the projects you mentioned in another thread. To me the need to purchase a more advanced soldering station came when I was tackling a project and felt my soldering skills had taken a deep dive - I just couldn't do a decent job at all and thought the culprit could only be the tool (which it was). 

[JenniferG]

Like the original poster, I thought it was good, because all my previous irons had no temperature control, so I didn't know any better. When I started using a decent soldering iron at work, I realised how bad my phase controlled iron is and got myself a decent temperature controlled iron.

Yeah, same here.  I thought it was great because of the wattage control on it.  But I understand now it does not *increase* the power dynamically as you solder to achieve the desired temperature.  I've actually run into problems with the soldering iron I have now like you say.  One with a temperature controlled tip is exactly what I want /need.

Thanks guys!

[JenniferG]

Hello Jennifer,

Now I know your in the US and you need 120v, shipped from US and you may run into SMD in the future.  Here is what I purchased off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-2in1-862D-Soldering-Iron-Welder-Hot-Air-Gun-Rework-Station-Accessories-/191557453776


Now, I know it's 4$ more than your iron, and it is not a top brand, but, it is temperature regulated and you get a hot air gun good for both SMD work and small heat shrink tubing shrinking.

The one I've used has lasted me over 3 years now and for 54$ us, I cant complain as it functions reasonably well with the 2 tips I use and I regularly use the air gun without any nozzle to de-solder & solder smd.

Wow that is fancy looking! And affordable   I do already have a hot air gun though that I bought for the purpose of shrinking heat shrink tube (turned my BF onto it.. he always used a cigarette lighter -- *rolls eyes*).

[JenniferG]

Has anyone done a soldering iron buyer's guide?  Like for a proper one, low budget and higher end.   I am going to do some searching.  Thanks for all the help guys.

[JenniferG]

I'd love to get a proper temperature controlled vintage soldering iron, that was built like a tank and that will last me the rest of my life, at a good discounted price (say from ebay).   Have no clue what to look for though.

[wraper]

Wow that is fancy looking! And affordable   I do already have a hot air gun though that I bought for the purpose of shrinking heat shrink tube (turned my BF onto it.. he always used a cigarette lighter -- *rolls eyes*).

Never buy cheap 2 in 1 stations. You can get much better if buy those separately.

[wraper]

I'd love to get a proper temperature controlled vintage soldering iron, that was built like a tank and that will last me the rest of my life, at a good discounted price (say from ebay).   Have no clue what to look for though.

Please don't. That won't be a good deal. As I wrote earlier, that Bakon 950D is very good for it's money. It will even solder better that genuine Hakko 888D, lower build quality of course. And you can use genuine Hakko T12 cartridges if want to pay a bit more.

[cs.dk]

Just wondering why people spend more on a soldering iron.  I'll read the rest of the replies and try and make sense of it.

When you first try one, you will understand..
I wondered to, as my Yihua and a Weller station did work "fine" - Bought a Metcal, and I can't get my arms down again.. The difference is not easy to describe, but believe me, there is a big wow first time you solder with it. You would not imagine the difference.

[DimitriP]

Fun reading https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/soldering-station-metcal-vs-pace/

[JenniferG]

Thanks guys.  Thinking about grabbing a used Hakko 936 from ebay.  I see some for sell without the iron.

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

[ebastler]

Has anyone done a soldering iron buyer's guide?  Like for a proper one, low budget and higher end.

I am not aware of a buyer's guide, I'm afraid. A few things to look for when you go shopping for a soldering iron/station -- purely based on my personal preference: 

• Comfortable handpiece. The main reason why I treated myself to an ERSA i-Con station last year, although my 30-year old analog station was still going strong. The handpiece is much lighter and more compact. In particular the distance from the grip to the solder tip is much shorter, hence it gives me much better control. The size of various irons is difficult to compare in photographs, and it's of course best to try them on for size anyway. So if you have a brick-and-mortar store within reach, it's worth to compare first hand.
• Flexible and heat-resistant cable (to the handpiece). Standard with the better soldering stations, I think. Some of the budget ones have rather clunky cables which drag on the handpiece. Worst case, they have insulation which does not withstand the heat of the soldering tip if it touches the cable by accident.
• Sturdy holder for the iron, with integrated sponge (or, better IMO, brass wool). I like it as a separate unit, rather than attached to the base, so I can position it within easy reach without it taking up much space. Must be heavy enough not to wander across your bench, and should not wobble or rattle when depositing the iron. The combination of a silicone body and ceramic insert is my personal favorite.
• Convenient controls. Largely a matter of preference: A big quasi-analog knob (encoder) and a digital display, like on the ERSA iCon 1, are perfect for me -- I hate having to press buttons repeatedly to step the temperature up or down. Others may prefer many buttons and presets.
• Rapid heating, preferably with automated standby at lower temperature.
• Easy changing of tips, ideally without tools even if the iron is hot. The plastic-handled nuts on the i-Con iron enable that, for example.
• Wide selection of long-life tips. As mentioned before, the brand tips tend to last much longer than no-names. Some really nice tip shapes are only available for brand irons, to my knowledge -- e.g. the concave "pan" which stores a bit of solder for easy SMD soldering, which is still patent protected.

As you can see, the large majority of these are "human factor" aspects. So, yes, the more expensive soldering stations are a bit of a luxury, and mainly add convenience (rather than enabling things that would otherwise be impossible). Being a hobbyist and far from a full-time professional user, for me it was mainly the satisfaction of using a well-designed tool that made me justify the spend.

[wraper]

Thanks guys.  Thinking about grabbing a used Hakko 936 from ebay.  I see some for sell without the iron.

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

What the point buying knockoff iron and connect it to genuine station? It will work as complete knockoff but for more money. And don't buy used Hakko 936, they are very expensive for what they are.

[RayRay]

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

It looks fine to me, although, the heating element doesn't have the hakko logo on it, so is probably not original.
It'd be fine as long as it's of decent quality though. But on a related side note, getting an original Hakko 936 nowadays is not an easy task!
There are plenty of Chinese replicas of it (who mostly use the A1322 element). You might wanna consider getting the Bakon 950D or Weller WES51/WESD51 instead (analog vs digital model basically)

[JenniferG]

Thanks guys.  Thinking about grabbing a used Hakko 936 from ebay.  I see some for sell without the iron.

I see a soldering iron for it for only $9.99 from China, that a lot of people are purchasing -- can you tell me if this really is a good iron for this Hakko 936?  Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-A1321-Heater-Handle-Iron-For-937-928-926-936-HAKKO907-Soldering-Station-/131680083485

What the point buying knockoff iron and connect it to genuine station? It will work as complete knockoff but for more money. And don't buy used Hakko 936, they are very expensive for what they are.

What would you suggest other than the $30 portable one? Looking for a station.  I'd get the Hakko FX888D but I don't like the digital interface.  I like to be in control by simply turning a knob, not a machine in control of me that might cost a lot of money later on to calibrate.

[RayRay]

I believe wraper was referring strictly to the iron you've linked to, and not to the station itself!
But regardless, you could easily buy a "knock off" without realizing it (as there are plenty of these around, and it's possible even the seller himself is clueless)

[JenniferG]

I believe wraper was referring strictly to the iron you've linked to, and not to the station itself!
But regardless, you could easily buy a "knock off" without realizing it (as there are plenty of these around, and it's possible even the seller himself is clueless)

Yeah I noticed that too after re-reading and changed my post, just before I read your reply.

[JenniferG]

Well the "knock off" iron looks pretty good and a lot of people buy it. It has a silicone cord.  I asked about it because maybe others have used this "knock off" and feel it is as good as the "real thing".

[JenniferG]

Is that Bakon 950D really that good? I mean it looks a bit awkward/cheap.. but I guess looks can be deceiving. I'd need to order a soldering iron stand for it if I got it.  Any recommendations? I'd like one that holds a sponge.

Does the Bakon 950D have a silicone rubber cord?

[wraper]

But on a related side note, getting an original Hakko 936 nowadays is not an easy task!

If sold new, there is no chance to buy genuine. But there a plenty beaten to the death for $50+ (without iron). Add a little bit more and get new genuine 888D, Sometimes there are discounts in US when they are sold for about $65, usually $90+. As with all Hakko, never buy from China or ebay sellers.
Wondering how big idiot one need to be to bid this much for used 936 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-/162313600315

[JenniferG]

But on a related side note, getting an original Hakko 936 nowadays is not an easy task!

If sold new, there is no chance to buy genuine. But there a plenty beaten to the death for $50+ (without iron). Add a little bit more and get new genuine 888D, Sometimes there are discounts in US when they are sold for about $65, usually $90+. As with all Hakko, never buy from China or ebay sellers.
Wondering how big idiot one need to be to bid this much for used 936 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-/162313600315

I was thinking of the $50 used one in fair condition ( I see a couple).  Along with that knock off $10 iron (if it is good.. the one with silicone cord).. and then acquiring the original stand somehow at a later date for like $10?

THe digital control interface of the 888 doesn't appeal to me.  I rather just turn a knob.

EDIT: wow I just read that bakon 950d is 75w.  I guess because it is using switching power supply instead of linear?  It must work like a dream heating up fast dynamically (to acheive operating temp) as you solder.

[wraper]

Is that Bakon 950D really that good? I mean it looks a bit awkward/cheap.. but I guess looks can be deceiving. I'd need to order a soldering iron stand for it if I got it.  Any recommendations? I'd like one that holds a sponge.

Does the Bakon 950D have a silicone rubber cord?

For it's cost it's very good, there are good reviews but mostly in Russian. And you can always use genuine Hakko T12 cartridge to get Hakko 951 performance as Chinese cartridges are not as good. Or even attach genuine hakko handle (will need to replace connector).
BTW don't forget to buy a chisel cartrige/tip(s). As conical tips are not good for most of the jobs.

[RayRay]

Well, just because a product is a replica of another successful product, it doesn't mean it's of poor quality.
It can definitely be equally good in some cases. Now, back on the main subject, if you want the temperature to be 100% accurate, you'd have to calibrate it (regardless of whether it's analog or digital!). And doing so isn't as expensive as you may think.
You could just get the TM902C+PK1000 (digital thermometer+a high temperature probe) and melt some solder onto the end of it.
Both should cost you around $25 combined. Anyhow, if you wanna turn a knob, get the Weller WES51
But if you wanna save some money, get the Bakon BK950D (It has plenty of positive reviews, especially on Youtube)
You could get it for $25 from Gearbest:
http://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_363024.html?wid=21
And you could also get a pack of tips for $10-13 from Banggood:
http://www.banggood.com/search/t12-tips.html
Either would get the job done quite well.

[JenniferG]

You could just get the TM902C+PK1000 (digital thermometer+a high temperature probe) and melt some solder onto the end of it.

I have an infrared thermometer I could use to measure the surface temp of the tip.

[wraper]

I have an infrared thermometer I could use to measure the surface temp of the tip.

That won't work well.

[JenniferG]

Did a search on the 950d.  I see many are getting "errors".  I am just afraid of it because I don't know how long it'd last.  I am sure it isn't very serviceable at all with the SMPS and tiny footprint -- digital interface etc.

At least the 936 is well documented (schematic & pcb) and it looks like it has a linear power supply from the photos (it's huge).. and I don't know much about electronics but I've made a couple linear power supplies and understand how rectification, filtering & regulating works.

The Hakko 936 is calling out to me.   I am kind of into vintage, bulky, "built like a tank" stuff anyways.  I have a rotary telephone from 1979 sitting here near my desk that rings when I get a phone call for example

[RayRay]

I think it's pretty obvious at this point that you're stuck on the Hakko 936, so there's nothing I (or anyone else) could say to make you change your mind. The Weller WES51 is also bulky btw, but nevermind that.

[JenniferG]

I was considering the WES51 as well, but it's only 50W compared to 60w of 936.  Also read people are having problems with the quality of the Wellers.

No I am not "Stuck on the 936".  But I don't think I want a cheap portable iron with an improper soldering iron holder, probably with a pvc cord, which many people are saying are getting errors.  That one isn't servicable like the 936 is.

[wraper]

I was considering the WES51 as well.

No I am not "Stuck on the 936".  But I don't think I want a cheap portable iron with an improper soldering iron holder, probably with a pvc cord, which many people are saying are getting errors.  That one isn't servicable like the 936 is.

Bakon have silicone cable. Most of the errors AFAIK are because of the bad electrical contact with the cartridge. Can be fixed by bending the spring contacts a little bit.

[wraper]

I was considering the WES51 as well, but it's only 50W compared to 60w of 936. 

936 is 50W station. 60W is power consumption from mains.

[Vtile]

I read the sponge / brasswool.. Well I still haven't seen a good commercial sponge system (which doesn't mean there wouldn't be one). The brasswool holders seems to be better design, but those I haven't encounted offline, since I'm not working on the industry and at home I'm using cheap Ikea Stainless pot scrub stuckt to the center of my most used solid core assembly wire spool.

Btw. What people think about these TENMA (these seems to come under different brands, without any noticiable differences). The original cord is awfully stiff and the handle piece isn't nice and short. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-21-1590-/21-1590
I bought one like 10+ years ago, it do have served nicely on hobbyist use, especially after I replaced the original "PVC" cord to flexible rubber one.

[RayRay]

Also read people are having problems with the quality of the Wellers.

Well, you'd never find any product that has 100% positive reviews, there will always be someone who is either not satisfied (or have happened to have gotten a bad unit), in general though, Weller is a very reputable brand and has good quality control.

But I don't think I want a cheap portable iron with an improper soldering iron holder, probably with a pvc cord, which many people are saying are getting errors.

Personally, I think the minimal stand it comes with it is fine and is good enough, but that's subjective I guess.
It does come with a flexible cable though, and errors wise, I've read that some people fixed the issue by simply replacing the tip, but wraper may also have a point on this subject.

That one isn't servicable like the 936 is.

To be honest, pretty much any soldering station is "servicable" (as long as the the person servicing it knows what they're doing!)
For novices though, I agree that 936 is more servicable (purely because you can get spare circuit boards for it)
As said before though, even if you purchase it second hand, you have no way of knowing for 100% whether it's an original or a replica.
And most replicas don't use the A1321 (but A1322) and you wouldn't be able to use those spare circuit boards for it.
So if in doubt, just settle for a replica (that is said to be using A1321), or at least try to look at the sticker on the cover.
The original 936 (or a decent replica at least) should have a 3A transformer (vs 1A on A1322 ones)


Edit: And on a related note, The Bakon 950D supports US electrical voltage (It's 100-240V), but it comes with an EU power cable by default, so you'd have to either get an adapter (or simply cut the EU plug, and put a US one instead if you know how to go about it)

[ebastler]

I read the sponge / brasswool.. Well I still haven't seen a good commercial sponge system (which doesn't mean there wouldn't be one). The brasswool holders seems to be better design, but those I haven't encounted offline, since I'm not working on the industry and at home I'm using cheap Ikea Stainless pot scrub stuckt to the center of my most used solid core assembly wire spool.

Personally, I have a slight preference for the metal wool (too lazy to go and wet the sponge... ). But the most important thing to me is that the sponge or wool are held in a stable, chunky holder. Not one of those lightweight metal cups that slides around whenever you touch it with your iron!

Beware of these,


look for something like this:

[Vtile]

I read the sponge / brasswool.. Well I still haven't seen a good commercial sponge system (which doesn't mean there wouldn't be one). The brasswool holders seems to be better design, but those I haven't encounted offline, since I'm not working on the industry and at home I'm using cheap Ikea Stainless pot scrub stuckt to the center of my most used solid core assembly wire spool.

Personally, I have a slight preference for the metal wool (too lazy to go and wet the sponge... ). But the most important thing to me is that the sponge or wool are held in a stable, chunky holder. Not one of those lightweight metal cups that slides around whenever you touch it with your iron!

Beware of these,


look for something like this:

Same reason I did swap to steelwool, the sponge were always dry and it is typically so slow to use. Would need a beefier sponge and make a slit to it and good heavy holder to work as should.

The wire spool is actually pretty good wool holder and it is always on the workbench anyway. Smells a bit when you accidentally hit it with the iron, but other than that works nicely. Plus it is heavy enough that it wond slide all over the place.

[DimitriP]

0% chances of getting a clone /almost as good /cant' tell the difference from the real thing
Built like a tank and most of the time priced accordingly:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Pace-MBT250-Soldering-Station-w-PS90-SX100-/262834502024?hash=item3d32283988:g:2GUAAOSwLnBXWYQs

[rstofer]

Dave didn't seem too happy with the Yihua 936 even considering the $16 price:


I have a Hakko 936 that I have been using for 13 years.  Works well...  When I decided to buy a soldering station for my grandson, I went with the Hakko FX888D.  Sure, it's 6 times as much money but I think it is probably a much better unit.  It certainly has better ESD characteristics.

It's worth having a couple of different tips and I would skip the conical ones altogether.  A BC or BCM tip should be perfect for drag soldering.  I don't have one.  What I do have are a couple of the Shape D tips.  They also work for drag soldering and just about everything else.

https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type.html

The soldering station will be one of the most used tools on the bench.  It really needs to hold up its end of the deal.

[JenniferG]

My BF had a nice soldering station, which he says "is gone now".. he just can't find it.  I asked him what make/model and he said he didn't recall (I think it was a gift from family member or something).

But I found the soldering iron holder for it in the garage!  All metal.. very nice!   Looks just like this one:



What soldering iron was this stand originally made for?  The Hakko 936? 

Wow if he had a Hakko 936 and lost it, I am gonna be sick!

Needless to say the soldering iron stand is now part of the decor of my budding electronics workbench -- which is currently the kitchen table!  (I see this stand alone selling for over $40 on ebay).

[rstofer]

My BF had a nice soldering station, which he says "is gone now".. he just can't find it.  I asked him what make/model and he said he didn't recall (I think it was a gift from family member or something).

But I found the soldering iron holder for it in the garage!  All metal.. very nice!   Looks just like this one:

What soldering iron was this stand originally made for?  The Hakko 936? 

Wow if he had a Hakko 936 and lost it, I am gonna be sick!

Needless to say the soldering iron stand is now part of the decor of my budding electronics workbench -- which is currently the kitchen table!  (I see this stand alone selling for over $40 on ebay).

I don't want to snitch but it matches my Hakko 936

[JenniferG]

Well I'll have a decent soldering station now.  Just won this old Hakko 926 of ebay -- allegedly in great condition.  Won it for $38.49 including shipping.  Gonna clean it up and retrobright the yellow plastic to make it look as new as possible.  Love the retro look of it -- has some character. 

I'll probably be using the Hakko 936 soldering iron stand (previous post on this page) with it instead of the one that hangs off the side.

[Zero999]

Well I'll have a decent soldering station now.  Just won this old Hakko 926 of ebay -- allegedly in great condition.  Won it for $38.49 including shipping.  Gonna clean it up and retrobright the yellow plastic to make it look as new as possible.  Love the retro look of it -- has some character. 

I'll probably be using the Hakko 936 soldering iron stand (previous post on this page) with it instead of the one that hangs off the side.

Good. Please let us know how you get on with it. Often it's better to buy second hand of a well known brand than a new cheap unknown brand.

[wraper]

Won it for $38.49 including shipping.  Gonna clean it up and retrobright the yellow plastic to make it look as new as possible.

I'm still amazed how people are ready to pay this much for filthy prehistoric unit which is not even ESD safe version.
Just imagine buying a car, driving it for 20+ years to the death, and then selling it for 40% of the new car price. In the same class, from the same manufacturer, and more like 70% of the new price when discounts do happen.

[RayRay]

I'm still amazed how people are ready to pay this much for filthy prehistoric unit which is not even ESD safe version.
Just imagine buying a car, driving it for 20+ years to the death, and then selling it for 40% of the new car price. In the same class, from the same manufacturer, and more like 70% of the new price when discounts do happen.

Well, it may not be ESD safe (in terms of anti-static materials), but it's grounded as far as I'm aware of, so should be good enough.
Now, set that aside, you shouldn't underestimate a product just because it's old!
It's still a highly reliable station, a true workhorse, and there's nothing wrong with it (plus you can still easily find spare tips & heating element for it too) Also, Dave (EEVBlog Admin) has a 926 himself, saw it in several of his videos, so if he approves, that should tell you something!

[JenniferG]

It's not going to look filthy when I'm done with it. Gonna look quite gorgeous actually   The faceplate is in excellent condition and can easily be cleaned.  And I can make that plastic look like new with some hydrogen peroxide cream & UV light.

Also, if Hakko still made the FX888 I would of bought it for $100 (despite its Fisher Price color scheme).  Regarding the FX888D, I like a dial to control temperature, not a quirky digital push button interface controlling me.   And I heard Weller was having quality control problems with WES51.

To be honest I saw no other option than to buy used in this price range.

[RayRay]

I think you've made a wise choice overall! 
It's vintage stuff, but solid as  a rock.
And once you have that faulty tip replaced, it should serve you quite well.

[usagi]

i love my hakko 936.

a hakko, used or not, is a great choice.

[rustybronco]

I bought a nice used Hakko 936 (genuine) with the correct aluminum iron holder off Ebay for $21.37 USD. As there wasn't an iron included with it, I have since purchased a clone 907 handle with the 'silica' grip and silicone cable for an additional $9.99 USD. When it arrives and depending on which heater it comes with, I'll more than likely purchase an original (possible clone??) A1321 element to install in the Fakko handle.

Someone mentioned that people are still willing to purchase these old units instead of it's more modern replacement, the FX888 D, I respond by saying, if you can by one in good shape for less than half the cost of new and it works almost as well as? why not. I've seen these regularly go for less than $45 USD including the correct iron.

Regards,
Dale

[pishta]

mine never gets hot enough. I cant even use desoldering braid with it.

[lordvader88]

I have one since it was CHEAP. Fine enough for a lot of stuff tho, especially if u don't use it that often.
But yeah it's time for me to either make my own circuitry, or buy a better one.

1 thing about the vellman is I did a quick search for new tips for it on ebay, and they aren't very common it seemed (thats how I remember it anyways).