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I reball Xbox 360 mainboard, for example, the GPU,after reballed it, I need to test the electronic effect, that is why i look for a multimeter,any one with recomendations?
If you mean you want to test for shorts using continuity testing, remember the output voltage of the multimeter might be enough to damage the newly soldered GPU. For instance, to meet some of the wiring standards in the UK, they have to output at least 4V.
Quote from: Neilm on November 01, 2011, 07:07:01 pmIf you mean you want to test for shorts using continuity testing, remember the output voltage of the multimeter might be enough to damage the newly soldered GPU. For instance, to meet some of the wiring standards in the UK, they have to output at least 4V.That sounds like a disaster. For electronics use I think I want my continuity and ohms measurements to use 0.5 V or less to reduce the risk of damage to other components during in-circuit tests. I really would not want my DMM outputting large voltages like that with the possible exception of the diode test function.
There is any way to prove my reballed gpu work well? If does not work, it means my GPU already broke? And no ways to make up except only to buy a new one?
I don't really understand the 4V requirement, is this about puncturing oxides? How about just requiring people to use a megger if insulation voltage matters? Otherwise this should be a clear distinction between electronics (below diode drop) and electricians (>4V) meters. Probably a separate mode, like the Fluke Lo Ohms feature.
BS7671 is the standard for building wiring in the UK so that is where the 4V is specified. Some meters pick that as a requirement.
Quote from: Neilm on November 02, 2011, 07:32:19 pmBS7671 is the standard for building wiring in the UK so that is where the 4V is specified. Some meters pick that as a requirement.Why this 4V minimum? What trouble are they trying to solve?
Quote from: Devian on November 01, 2011, 10:00:46 amThere is any way to prove my reballed gpu work well? If does not work, it means my GPU already broke? And no ways to make up except only to buy a new one?No, there isn't a way to test it.Apart from switching it on and testing it after you solder it. It'll either work or it won't. If it doesn't work, you won't know if that's because it's a bad chip, or bad soldering, or both.Dave.Hi. your opinion really help me much, but if there is an easy way to test the ship before reballed or before soldering? How to test a X360 gpu reballed chip to make sure it is working before soldering ? Many thanks
Open circuit or for very high resistances, most meters produce a voltage of 5V or so. For lower resistances some meters are specified to be below 0.2V.I don't really understand the 4V requirement, is this about puncturing oxides? How about just requiring people to use a megger if insulation voltage matters? Otherwise this should be a clear distinction between electronics (below diode drop) and electricians (>4V) meters. Probably a separate mode, like the Fluke Lo Ohms feature.
Quote from: IanB on November 01, 2011, 07:19:09 pmQuote from: Neilm on November 01, 2011, 07:07:01 pmIf you mean you want to test for shorts using continuity testing, remember the output voltage of the multimeter might be enough to damage the newly soldered GPU. For instance, to meet some of the wiring standards in the UK, they have to output at least 4V.That sounds like a disaster. For electronics use I think I want my continuity and ohms measurements to use 0.5 V or less to reduce the risk of damage to other components during in-circuit tests. I really would not want my DMM outputting large voltages like that with the possible exception of the diode test function.Exactly my point - I don't know what most DMMs do but if you get one that does output 4V or more (BS7671 gives 4-24V) you will blow things up. I think I will measure what my ones at work give.Neil