I use a lot of transfer paper. As far as I ever got sourcing the stuff, the PnP is significantly cheaper than Pulsar when you buy 100 sheets at a time, which I have done multiple times. That said, I use only Pulsar, ever since I tried it. 1.50 per ~90 square inches of transfer paper is certainly cheap enough. My own time and labor dwarfs this cost. Pulsar works great. I use a laminator (and a heat gun), and I have never messed up a single board since I started using the Pulsar 2 or 3 years ago. I still have a small stack of PnP, which I'm too cheap to throw away. But unless Pulsar goes out of business and there's no replacement, I am not cheap enough to ever use it up. Redoing a board... that is a huge waste of time on a double-sided board.
Some pointers. These are the bare minimum steps I have discovered to get perfect result every time without wasting time/effort redoing anything:
1. Wet board and scrub with steel wool and dish soap
2. Rinse off the soap (else you will turn your etchant into a bubble batch)
3. Dip in etchant to texturize the surface
4. Examine for streaks/fingerprints. The entire surface should turn dark. If light patches remain where it looks unetched, redo from step 1.
5. Rinse in big old bucket of dirty water, it's ok.
6. let board dry, naturally, or shoot it with heat gun until dry. If you let it dry, naturally, you will observe green/white streaks all over the board when it dries, but you can ignore this.
7. Preheat with heat gun and/or run thru laminator, once.
8. Transfer
9. If board doesn't exit the back of the laminator so hot you can't hold it between your fingers, run it again while shooting the board with heat gun until this is so. This varies depending on how big the board is and what thickness pour.
9.b For a doublesided board, align your other side and repeat steps 8 and 9.
10. Drop board into your big ole bucket of dirty water, and peel off the paper 10 seconds later.
11. Board is 100% perfect. Nothing more, nothing less. But if any toner bleedthrough is visible on the Pulsar paper, you can back off the heat a bit, next time. There is actually a relatively huge margin for error, when you use the Pulsar and the pre etch. This is just how I calibrate my fingertips for step 9. If there is no bleedthrough, you can afford more heat. If there is bleedthrough, you are on the high end.
12. After etch, scrub the wet board with steel wool to remove the toner and shine the preetched layer off the copper, and rinse it off.
13. Rub board with liquid rosin flux and set it aside to dry.
14. Trim and/or drill holes.