Yup, I know it's big. I will cut it down later into several sheets if need be. I tried lowering the number of Logic Chips, bur ended up making the circuit not perform the way I want. It that Test LED switch that just messes up everything. I want all LED's to turn on when it is pressed, regardless whether or not the SS441A has been tripped. I think that is important for visual indication. If something is wrong, a Red LED should light on the front panel, if that LED is out, you won't know if anything is wrong or not.
I don't really know what all the XORs and stuff are going on about, but as it's an unusual logic function (important when needed, but not often), it's very likely you're doing something very strange, i.e., the hard way, and just not seeing the clear path.
One trick that helps immensely with optimizing glue logic is diode gates and, as they call it in AoE2, "Mickey Mouse Logic", i.e., a little transistor here or there as needed, to provide an invert or buffer or wired-OR or whatever sort of function.
All of your LEDs, for example, can be diode-OR'd with a diode pair per LED, one coming from the true logic signal, one coming from the TEST node, and the cathodes going to the LED.
Note that all your LED cathodes need a test function too (U24, etc.). I didn't look if they are ultimately wired into the TEST circuit or not.
You can wire more transistors in parallel to do that, or you can pull down the transistor drain pins with yet another diode (per pin), pulled by a single transistor (which may need to be larger, I didn't check the spec of what you're using, or how many LEDs that comes to).
Using diodes, at least, eliminates...all? Or almost all your OR gates? And distributes them among the LEDs, so you don't have a bazillion wires running around.
Do you mean one of these on the pins 3 or 4 of the OptoMOSs? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS/B81123C1102M/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugX8qgvXXfJKysWqbQK%2fDgDcnK0zaeiQTk%3d or http://psearch.murata.com/capacitor/product/DE2E3KY102MB3BM02.pdf
If so, where exactly does it go? On pin 4 then to ground?
Yes, that will work. More traditionally ceramic, I think, like:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VY1102M35Y5UQ63V0/BC2374-ND/1983413If it says Y1, it'll carry the agency approval that says it's okay for line-to-ground transients without blowing up or whatever.
Of course, the Y1 rating is for 120VAC+ and 2500V isolation, hardly what's present here (60V switch, max. 1500V isolation). I mainly picked that because it's a common example. And they make millions of them, so they're not very pricey, despite the agency mark. Since you don't even need that, you could pinch another penny or two and find a "general purpose" 1-3kV rated part.
(And yes, so much thought easily goes into the ratings and selection of little more than a dumb capacitor! It gets easier as you get used to it all, though I'm sure it might be a bit surprising or overwhelming at first.)
Anyway, you want that capacitor from the "switch" side to ground, either pin, doesn't matter. You still need (or... want?) a TVS across the "switch" terminals, like an SMAJ48CA, so that if ESD hits the other pin, it has somewhere to go, other than through the (open) switch.
The 2.2k Pull-up to 5 volts is if the circuit of a specific break-out-board needs to be pulled up to 5volts. Some break-out-boards need to be pulled up to 5 volts, some need to sink to ground. In the case that it needs to be pulled up to 5 volts, then pin 1 of the screw terminal would not be connected.To connect, a jumper would be plugged in for the 2.2k pull-up.
But the point is, would there always be one pin connected to ground? Are these not "dry contact" terminals like you'd have on a PLC card?
'Cuz if they're always going to be one-side-common, you can just use a dumb transistor there, no need for optos at all!
If they're intended as "uncommitted transistor outputs", but only ever used unidirectionally, you can still use a transistor for that, though it gets a little bit trickier to implement, and you may be better off with some ICs or buffers or something as a solution. But it's absolutely possible, and will save the bother of all those optos.
Also, if these are ultimately internal connections, ESD probably doesn't matter. If it's going on a connector to the outside world, and to cables, it's probably still better with the ESD stuff.
That front panel LED is a direct connect to the mainboard via it's connector. There is NO wire or cable separating them. The connectors are there to just stand the LED board up off the mainboard, to allow more space and smaller overall size of the mainboard.
So, a board-to-board connector?
I meant, the resistors to terminate the traces. On-board stuff.
Which...
Oh shit, just noticing the misch-mash of logic you've selected: AHC, ACT, AC, NC7SZ, HC, NL27WZ, LVC even! Almost all of which are high to "ultra high" speed families, with (at 5.0V supply, the very margin of operation) output impedances in the 20 ohm or less range -- these will beat the shit out of any transmission line, and with single nanosecond risetimes, it doesn't take much trace length to get there!
Absolutely, positively, reduce ALL of those to nothing faster than 74HC. All of these gates are available in SOIC or TSSOP packages (74HC flavor), reduced-gates format (74HC1G, etc.), and probably there's a TinyLogic equivalent (NL7xxx) if you prefer.
On the upside, you've got bypass caps per chip, which if they're routed closely, probably won't have the chips themselves shitting the bed. But the logic signals entering them, hoo boy -- unless you inspect the circuit with a 200MHz+ scope, you wouldn't even know anything is going on!
So, just another thing to be careful of. If you want the "well why didn't they fucking tell me this before I bought them", check the appnotes: in particular, there's a signal quality one I'm thinking of, see if I can find it...
Yayayah, found it, this was the one I was thinking of:
http://www.nxp.com/documents/application_note/AN246.pdfThey show the V-I characteristics of a few logic families (in other words, how much current the outputs can dump) (note the axes: these things are dumping nearly half an amp at voltage extremes!), and some waveforms that you'll see when driving a modest length transmission line (which is everything: traces, cables, coax, waveguide, anything). And note the scale of the waveforms, a few nanoseconds here and there is what makes all the difference, so it could be easy to miss, and yet you can end up with a spooky circuit (extra transitions causing weird behavior, especially around flip-flops) or poor reliability (note the overshoot, which bangs into the input protection diodes!) and be none the wiser if you don't have the bandwidth to see what's really going on.
One final word about logic families: 74HC is the quintessential, general purpose, 3.3-5V logic family. It's a little on the fast side even for what you're doing (you can run afoul of these transmission line effects on pretty large boards), and you'll get more noise immunity (important for a potential industrial environment?) with high voltage logic. CD4000 series is still the best in that matter: it's slow as molasses (even at 15V, rise time is like 100ns), weak (so even if it were fast, it won't cause overshoot), and just as cheap and easy to work with*.
*I lied, a lot of the pinouts really suck. But on a PCB, that's not a big deal.
- Series 10 ohm resistors: J32, J36, etc. V_IN pin.
- All the TVS stuff you have a choice on: probably best to put it on the J32, J36, etc. inputs (and outputs where applicable), as well as J29, J33, etc. (same idea). Or instead of J23, J36, etc., you can push it up to the main board, on J19 / J20.1.
I can do that, though, there is extra space on the rear panel board, so I'll put them there. That Mainboard is going to be tight. 100ohm on each V-In on jumpers J32....etc.
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100? I said 10...
100 isn't necessarily bad, but you'll see a lot of drop when those LEDs light up. Maybe not enough to upset the logic, but it doesn't sound good to me.
Also, why the 4.7k supplying the logic (R124, etc.)? That'll probably drop more than you wanted, even without the LEDs.
I've had like 5 different circuit boards made, and have had problems with them all.
We've looked at a lot of basic design issues here, have you tried building any on solderless breadboard first? PCBs are serious investment of time and money, just for something that doesn't work (or ends up with problems).
You can do quite good work with solderless methods, obviously not long term reliable, vibration proof stuff... but just for checking out an idea and running with it a little while to get a feel for how it's doing, absolutely. Better than doing five revs of a board.
You'll also gain an appreciation for those logic shortcuts, like not having to place every god damned jumper back and forth to every pissing little logic gate....
(The worst I ever did:
http://seventransistorlabs.com/Images/Z80_Timer2.jpg blue = address bus, red = data bus, black = control signals; it's a Z80 microprocessor, RAM, timer, and parallel port programming interface. A very simple computer, pretty easy to build as 80s tech goes. But yeah, all those buses add up, and you go through a lot of jumpers doing it. I can't even imagine debugging that thing, going straight from schematic to PCB without trying it first!)
Tim