Looks good. However your signal source seems a little glitchy. What circuit are you using for that?
Well, it's work in progress. I really wanted to use a crystal, but somehow I cannot get my brain wrapped around it. Looks simple, but nothing has worked for me so far. So this setup is a simple 555 timer setup. I took a picture (
https://goo.gl/photos/MKXuodLjaXxr29dU7) of the current (and sorry) setup that's not even close to what I wanted to do. I got stuck on just getting a frequency going right that the rest of the plans haven't really moved on yet. So far I just have a simple CD4020 counter which was supposed to help drive a few 7 segment displays and more. Anyway - I digress.
The time was supposed to run at 600-800kHz at least which meant I started with a small 100ns capacitor and a few K ohms in resistance. But I quickly found that doing so wouldn't allow me to "play" with cutting the starting wave form off to just get a pulse on the rising edge and nothing more. I wanted that to do some sync later on with some 74HC circuits. As I back-tracked having issues with a clean signal, I lowered the signal to a few Hz by increasing the capacity to 47uf. I've aimed for a very simple astable setup with a duty cycle as close to 50% as I could make it. And yes, it occurred to me very late that getting a short pulse instead of a long one I needed to shorten could be achieved by changing the duty cycle - go sue me, that never occurred to me when I started *sigh*. I have a 1M ohm from pin 8 to 7. And a 10Kohm from pin 7 to 6, and 6 is connected to 2 where the 47uf capacitor goes to ground. Pin 4 is high, pin 5 has a very small capacitor 220pf (I see no difference when I remove it, add a larger or smaller cap there). I'm of course using the output on pin 3. This is pretty standard, and my "only" problem has been trying to make the duty cycle close to 50% which I now realize was a stupid thing to do.
But as you can see on the wave form, it's "noisy", and on the raising and lowering there are some major jumps. It even seems to be fairly "slow" going to high and going to low
Re the colours - I'm assuming you'll do better if you have something to compare them to: You've got a cyan line (pale blue) and a yellow line. The cyan line is the same colour as the text under the left side icons and the yellow line is the same colour as the letters of the 'RIGOL' logo in the top left corner of the screen. The 'RUN'/'WAIT' next to 'RIGOL' is currently green (I don't know if it ever changes colour - RTFM).
I can see the differences but not the color identity (Ie I cannot tell you what color - I see them as different colors than you). Only channel 2 and 4 are very much the same color to me. So yes, I can see that the controls match the colors and understand the purpose. I "left" electronics when I was very young and realized I was color blind, and reading resistors and capacitors was impossible just from the color coding. Without a meter I would still have no clue what capacity the resistors had - and yes, it's slow but I'm in no hurry. This may be why there's no alternative way to identify the channels on the controls (other than by color). To me, a symbol would be very very helpful. Circles, squares, triangle and a cylinder would have been great small symbols to use to make things faster/easier for guys like me. However, I'm pretty sure you cannot be an electrician by profession if you cannot read colors like me, so that may be the reason why it's just colors.
Btw. I've begun to measure points I thought I knew what was going on at, and clearly I don't have a clue to a lot of it. So this scope is really coming in handy
I'll be yelling at it some more, but in the end it's me that still has a far way to go.