Oils/products for keeping tools in good condition?

[Sekkai]

Curious how most people take care of their tools, cutters, pliers, scissors, etc.

Do most of you buy WD-40 and apply to everything once every while? Or do you use special oils and products depending on what you're using it on?

[IanB]

I have never found it necessary. Do you live in a particularly damp environment?

Most tools are stainless steel (scissors) or have chrome plating (screwdrivers, pliers, etc). Kept indoors they stay shiny forever.

Some tools like hammers and tin snips may be made out of carbon steel. To stop them rusting an occasional light coating of machine oil before storage should suffice. But common use and keeping in a dry environment should be sufficient most of the time.

[wraper]

Do most of you buy WD-40 and apply to everything once every while?

That is sure way how to damage tools and sometimes even cause corrosion. https://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
And on top of all, it's not even a lubricant, it will flush out old lubricant and replace it with nothing.

[jpanhalt]

Many of my hand tools are chrome plated, e.g., wrenches.   Only a very few are stainless.   Most of my tools are good steel, some of it hardened.  Ordinary oil from use helps.   I have quite dry skin and don't sweat on them much, which is an advantage.  I do wipe them down with an oil rag.   For longer term storage, I use LPS3.

I do have some WD40 in the shop, but I do not use it often, except under my arms.

[Gyro]

Singer Sewing Machine oil. It's an excellent lubricant (especially for small hand tools), non-staining and odourless.

[rstofer]

Mostly, I use WD-40.  Ballistol is a good cleaner/lubricant as is Break-Free CLP-4.  These two are specifically lubricants where as WD-40 is strictly a Water Displacing compound and never intended to be a lubricant.

I don't clean or lubricate my electronics tools but I do squirt WD-40 over the tools I use to fix the sprinkler system.

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Cleaner-Protectant/dp/B00A470DQK
https://www.amazon.com/BreakFree-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU

[PhilipPeake]

Fluid Film is good. It’s lanolin based, so no problems if you get it on your skin.
I was a little doubtfull at first, but hav found it to be really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Extension-Number-Service/dp/B07CJWV273/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534621901&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=rust+preventative+spray&psc=1

[nuno]

I do have some WD40 in the shop, but I do not use it often, except under my arms.

Thanks for the laughter of the day

[Sekkai]

I have never found it necessary. Do you live in a particularly damp environment?

Most tools are stainless steel (scissors) or have chrome plating (screwdrivers, pliers, etc). Kept indoors they stay shiny forever.

Some tools like hammers and tin snips may be made out of carbon steel. To stop them rusting an occasional light coating of machine oil before storage should suffice. But common use and keeping in a dry environment should be sufficient most of the time.

No but a couple of my tools (specifically, two pairs of scissors, and on pair of wire cutters) are a little bit stiff, and I wanted to know the right way to unstiffen using a product or oil.

That is sure way how to damage tools and sometimes even cause corrosion. https://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
And on top of all, it's not even a lubricant, it will flush out old lubricant and replace it with nothing.

I was about to use WD-40 and I am glad I held off!

[IanB]

No but a couple of my tools (specifically, two pairs of scissors, and on pair of wire cutters) are a little bit stiff, and I wanted to know the right way to unstiffen using a product or oil.

Then why didn't you say that in your first post? 

I believe everyone in this thread, including me, thought you were worried about rusting and corrosion. It is normal to apply a thin coating of oil on tools in a machine shop to keep them from rusting.

If you want to know how to lubricate hinges, ask: "What is the best lubricant for hinged tools like scissors or pliers?"

As noted, the answer is going to be light machine oil or sewing machine oil.

[tautech]

Some of the better products are gun care products of which there are many types and consistencies.
For medium term corrosion protection they can be very useful while the thinner solutions offer better penetration properties. For stiff tool joints you want something thin to penetrate and flush the joint and pretty much any light petrochemical product is fine for freeing up tools....even petrol/gasoline. Then proceed to a proper light lubricant to maintain movement and minimize wear.
One need consider non-staining properties which would be where the likes of clear lubricants like sewing machine oils could be more useful than many. I use a product from INOX, MX3 it's clear, food grade and it lingers.

[Sekkai]

No but a couple of my tools (specifically, two pairs of scissors, and on pair of wire cutters) are a little bit stiff, and I wanted to know the right way to unstiffen using a product or oil.

Then why didn't you say that in your first post? 

I believe everyone in this thread, including me, thought you were worried about rusting and corrosion. It is normal to apply a thin coating of oil on tools in a machine shop to keep them from rusting.

If you want to know how to lubricate hinges, ask: "What is the best lubricant for hinged tools like scissors or pliers?"

As noted, the answer is going to be light machine oil or sewing machine oil.

I did, though, I believe! What did I forget to mention? I did mention these tools in my first post. I didn't say anything about rust. I thought WD40 was a lubricant, makes squeaky stiff things quiet and smooth, nothing to do with rust.

[IanB]

I did, though, I believe! What did I forget to mention? I did mention these tools in my first post.

No, you said "take care of", which means "look after" or "preserve". It can also mean "clean" or "polish". You said nothing about stiff hinges or lubrication. This may be a language problem. Maybe English is not your first language?

[Sekkai]

I did, though, I believe! What did I forget to mention? I did mention these tools in my first post.

No, you said "take care of", which means "look after" or "preserve". It can also mean "clean" or "polish". You said nothing about stiff hinges or lubrication. This may be a language problem. Maybe English is not your first language?

English is not my first, no, but thank you for teaching me how to word it better in the future.

Is "3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ" the oil you said, as an example? "Singer 2131E All Purpose Machine Oil" too?

[IanB]

Is "3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ" the oil you said, as an example? "Singer 2131E All Purpose Machine Oil" too?

Both of those oils would be excellent choices to lubricate hinges and other moving parts of machinery.

When you buy the oil, consider the convenience of the container and the dispensing spout. 3-In-One have had some terrible container designs in the past. The Singer oil may be better.

[Sekkai]

Is WD-40, then not a good choice for lubricating hinges and tools? Whenever I have a squeaky door I've used WD-40 to make it quiet and smooth... have I been doing it wrong all this time?  When is WD-40 appropriate?

[IanB]

Is WD-40, then not a good choice for lubricating hinges and tools? Whenever I have a squeaky door I've used WD-40 to make it quiet and smooth... have I been doing it wrong all this time?  When is WD-40 appropriate?

WD-40 is not really an oil or a lubricant. It is a cleaner and penetrating agent, for example to loosen rusty bolts and free stuck mechanisms. After you use WD-40 to release something, you should always apply a proper lubricating oil afterwards.

[wraper]

Is WD-40, then not a good choice for lubricating hinges and tools? Whenever I have a squeaky door I've used WD-40 to make it quiet and smooth... have I been doing it wrong all this time?  When is WD-40 appropriate?

If you applied proper lubricant, door would not bother you again for quite a long time.

[KL27x]

I have had rust issues before, when having a poorly sheltered workshop. I have tried paste wax and parafin, and I am not 100% sure, but I think they do absolutely nothing. Oil, any oil, seems to be essential.

For me, the most important thing was learning how to remove the rust. Doing it the right way will reduce future problems. They sell phosphoric acid by the gallon. You can use this to remove rust, and it leaves a block oxide layer. After rinsing and drying, apply some oil to soak into the surface, and this adds some protection. Even better if you use a zinc phosphate solution, phosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it. This is sold as parkerizing solution already mixed in the correct ratios. You put the part in there and it will remove the rust. And it will deposit a protective layer thicker and more durable than the plain phosphoric acid.

I parkerized the top of a cast iron saw table by covering it in sawdust and pouring on the solution. It worked wonders. The table gets some rust around the edges, but the top has been rust-free ever after.

A lot of people use vinegar to remove rust. It does this great. And it leaves a patina, but it really doesn't add much protection.

Another trick I learned about later but never tried is linseed oil. If you apply it to steel and then heat it up, it makes a really solid black patina. I suspect it's partly chemical reaction, and that there may also be some polymerized oil stuck into the surface.
https://youtu.be/4ywqz3OWN4w?t=156

Another thing to be aware of is the color of the rust. If your tools get a dark brown rust that is smooth/flat, it is sometimes best to just oil it and rub it down. Buffing with fine compound, if you must, or do the acid wash. But don't sand it off and leave a clean coarse surface. The dark brown rust is very benign. If you rough up and clean the surface, you can trade that in for destructive red rust. The dark brown stuff usually develops very slowly on well-oiled tools, IME. In days gone by, machinists used to grow a thin layer of this dark brown rust on there, on purpose, using steam and a card file to brush off the excess.

If you are in a humid/salty environment, basically get used to having funky colors and stains on your steel. If you only concern yourself with just the red/orange or bumpy/rough/dusty/crumbly rust, you will save a lot of repetitive work for no reason. Any other stain that starts/grows is technically eating the steel, but it is also protecting it from the red rust which goes off exponentially once it sets in and is about the only thing that will eat down below the surface.

If you must have bright and shiny steel, then get used to refinishing regularly. I'm sure you can find commercial products with fantastic claims.

[tautech]

Removing rust from steels that you don't want to affect a finish like blueing on firearms is best done with oil soaked steel wool.

[mzzj]

Baby oil for hand tools (super easily available pure mineral oil and I'm not allergic to it unlike many other oils)
Baby oil + lanolin for metalworking tools in the partially heated metalworking shop/shed

[iainwhite]

To loosen seized or stiff parts, I use Penetrating Oil:  e.g. 3 in One  or Kroil or PB-blaster
To lubricate and protect, I use mineral Oil   e.g. Starrett Instrument  Oil ($$$) or Mineral Oil from the pharmacy (in the laxative section )
To protect exposed metal surfaces e.g. Cast Iron machine tables, I use Jojoba Oil  (somewhat waxy)

[KL27x]

For stiff joints, I crush up some chromium oxide buffing bar and add a few drops of mineral oil. Smear that into the joint and work it around some.

[Mr. Scram]

It's important to note that there are different categories of tools. For some regular maintenance is required, while others have all the protection they need in the form of a coating. A manufacturer like Knipex typically has a bare or black model and a chromed model. The former needs to be maintained, while the latter doesn't. A bare model can have some advantages, like slightly sharper cutting edges.

[Nusa]

The occasional bottle of Rum or Whiskey lubricates the most important tool in my collection.