Yep. When the TO-220 package is laying with the tab down and the writing up, I'm counting left to right starting with 1. (Actually, I ran into datasheets with different numbering conventions -- the reason that things were connected incorrectly the first time around -- and now I'm just thinking Vin, Vout, Vadj which -are- constant across manufacturers on each device.)
"tab down" ??
Are you sure you are connecting the regulators the right way round? Just checking because the data sheets usuall show the TO220 devices witht he Tab up.
If you put the TO220 devices down with the
tab up and the writing visible (so you are looking at the front, not the heatsink side of the device), then the Adj pin is the first on the left. On the 317, the center pin is the output. On the 337, the right pin is the output.
When it is working, the sense resistors will never have more then 1.2V to 1.3V across them. The moment you see more then that, you know either the regulators are dead or they are connected wrong.
Now once it is working, another concern is the amount of power going into the potentiometers.
If you use a 220 ohm sense resistor with a 5K potentiometer for the LM317, then you will probably be OK.
If you use a 120 ohm sense resistor with a 2.5K potentiometer with the LM337, then it has to be one of the carbon potentiometers that are about 1 inch in diameter. The ones that re about 3/4 inches in diameter or smaller will probably be a bit over their power limits, and it will not be reliable.
In general though, pulling 5 or 10mA from a potentiometer wiper is not a great ideal unless you are using a wirewound potentiometer. Most power supply designs will only be drawing microamps from the potentiometer wiper. The issue is that if the potentiometer starts failing and goes open circuit in places, the output voltage may jump to maximum. (I am not sure if it will jump to maximum or just go to 0V - probably worth a test).
Richard