Prototyping Options

[TorqueRanger]

I am looking to make some projects soon.. But my workspace is my kitchen table and needs to be cleaned up when I am done cause I live in a small apartment with my family.. What would be a great option to making pcb without etch or outsourcing?? I thought about etching but I don't have a way to drill the holes for though hole parts and that leaves smd parts ... Which I will look into when I can a place to etch and coat the traces ..

[pmbrunelle]

There are those pre-drilled PCB stripboards with the rows of 5 holes connected together with copper.

Otherwise, dead-bug/point-to-point construction.

If you want custom PCB, you will have to etch. I don't see etching as taking up much space... FeCl₃ is just messy.

As for holes, you can get a mini tabletop drill press, like an 8-inch unit, that maybe you can C-clamp to your table when you use it. Actually, for light PCB drilling, you probably won't need to fix the base at all.

If you don't want to drill holes, then you're into SMT stuff, but that's finer pitch, so your home etching technique will have to be well honed... Besides, you probably need to drill holes for wires.

[fivefish]

Get a breadboard and prototype initially from there.
Once circuit is working then design boards in Eagle or whatever software you like.
Have PCB made in China.
Wait a week.
While waiting for boards, buy parts
Parts and PCB arrive.
Build.
---
another option,
buy kits.

[German_EE]

I like to use Manhattan construction for prototypes, and it doesn't just work for radios:

http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/2n26/2n26picture.htm

http://www.aoc.nrao.edu/~pharden/hobby/HG-MANHAT1.pdf

http://www.aoc.nrao.edu/~pharden/hobby/HG-MANHAT2.pdf

[Simon]

Making PCB's at home is messy and a nuisance. My attempts didn't last long as I soon realized that I could not do double sided properly and it was best to get them made.

[MrSlack]

I don't bother making PCBs myself. I've done it enough times to not bother - it's messy and requires digging out drill presses etc which I just can't be bothered with. Also FR4 is a dick to cut.

If I'm doing something low speed, I tend to use "IC padboard"[1] and for anything RF, it's Manhattan style. Occasionally, as per my frequency counter, the HF section will be Manhattan and this is then tied to the IC padboard via wires soldered to both ends (keeping analog and digital grounds carefully separated) and the low frequency section and digital is on IC padboard. i usually end up with some unused board on the side which is handy when you want to modify the design later.

[1] http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-8-5x20cm-Universal-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Printed-Circuit-Board-Matrix-Stripboard/32298635794.html

[sleemanj]

But my workspace is my kitchen table and needs to be cleaned up when I am done cause I live in a small apartment with my family

Normally I'd say learn to etch because it's a handy skill when you want to knock something together *today*, strike while the iron is hot.  But in your case it's not a good option when working in your kitchen in an apartment.

So your options are mainly...

Perfboard (from usual cheap places)
Stripboard/Veroboard (harder to get, it's perfboard but usually plated holes and with the holes connected together)
Permaproto (only from Adafruit I think, none of the chinese manufacturers have copied it)
Arduino "Prototype Shields"
Various prototype board designs are floating around with breakouts for SMD components and through hole perfboard areas

Or design your PCB and send the gerbers to your favourite PCB fab with a few dollars, see pcbshopper.com for price comparisons, I use dirtypcbs.com when I want stuff made because it's quick and cheap and I can get them in red for no extra cost, green is so last century.

[Gyro]

I like to use Manhattan construction for prototypes, and it doesn't just work for radios:

Likewise. I normally mount DIP packages through hole though, with all other components on the copper side (as normal Manhattan. It's easy to drill a few holes with sufficient accuracy using a hand operated Archimedes drill and a bit of matrix board as a template. Grounded pins can be soldered directly to the copper side and I countersink the holes for non-grounded pins with a drill bit to clear the copper around them.

I find that this approach is the quickest (and cheapest) for securing packages and minimizes the number of stuck on 'islands required. Many parts usually connect between pins and either ground or the supply bus so it's easy to implement with smd parts (1206 or 0805) soldered directly between the copper and the pins. Kynar or bare wire for interconnects as appropriate.

[tggzzz]

For SMD prototypes, these look plausible - but I haven't used them.
http://www.jameco.com/1/1/46246-smt-100-unique-universal-smt-prototype-board-all-footprints-2x3.html
And look at the 937kB data sheet.

Making PCBs at home by any method is messy; you have to choose whether chemicals, dust, or handtools are least problematic.

If you can wait 10 days, then $15 gets you a 5cm*5cm doublesided PTH board from, for example, dirtypcbs.

[MrSlack]

I like to use Manhattan construction for prototypes, and it doesn't just work for radios:

Likewise. I normally mount DIP packages through hole though, with all other components on the copper side (as normal Manhattan. It's easy to drill a few holes with sufficient accuracy using a hand operated Archimedes drill and a bit of matrix board as a template. Grounded pins can be soldered directly to the copper side and I countersink the holes for non-grounded pins with a drill bit to clear the copper around them.

I find that this approach is the quickest (and cheapest) for securing packages and minimizes the number of stuck on 'islands required. Many parts usually connect between pins and either ground or the supply bus so it's easy to implement with smd parts (1206 or 0805) soldered directly between the copper and the pins. Kynar or bare wire for interconnects as appropriate.

Interesting idea. Might try that next time I do a board with ICs on it.

[flynwill]

Related to the "Manhattan" technique, another old-school method for high-speed or noise sensitive circuits is copper-clad perf-board and using Vector's "pad cutter" http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/574HANDT.pdf  to cut pads for the non-grounded component leads.  For interconnects use bare tinned wire (24-28 gauge) with teflon tubing slipped over for insulation -- much quicker and more efficient than cutting and stripping insulated wire.

That said I've used OSHPark for several recent projects, and I'm sold.  Excellent results at a very reasonable price.

[MrSlack]

Always afraid of cocking something up and producing a different batch of boards with OSHpark. Plus I'm impatient

[Fat]

Oshpark produces some very nice boards and the price is reasonable. I've used DirtyPCBs a couple of times.  First time the boards were really nice and arrived in about 15 days. Second time the boards were a little rough (but they are advertised as proto boards anyway), the silk screen was unreadable and they took about a month to get here.

For fast turn around I use negative photoresist paint. Takes a day to dry the board after you paint it. I develop in warm water and washing soda then use hydrogen peroxide and swimming pool acid to etch. Simple process that I do out in the yard. With a good transparency the boards come out very nice.

[fivefish]

Oshpark is okay for small boards. 

But once you exceed a certain size, China comes out cheaper even with the more expensive shipping. Plus you can get 10pcs-15pcs for the same price Oshpark will charge you for only 3 pcs.  Build one or two, sell the others, and even recoup your cost and a little profit for your next project.

[TorqueRanger]

Wow alot of great ideas here and will have to check them out when I get more time


I also found this and might try it
http://makezine.com/projects/how-to-professional-perfboards/

[Simon]

I hate perf boards and strip boards. So easy to screw it up. I once made up 4 simple circuits for a customer in a hurry and they came out at 50x50mm on strip board, took ages to put together I certainly didn't make much on them. I then made a a PCB version of the circuit with some additional parts and put 2 on a PCB that was 25x35mm! I was then able to stand 4 in a single 50x50mm box as the customer wanted a 4 channel unit.