Purchasing parts and basic components for a new lab

[AnyNameWillDo]

Link to my first thread about equipment: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/my-purchase-list-for-my-new-lab-budget-$1000-thoughts/

Posting what components I am looking at today and could use some advice. I've included pictures in case those are easier to read (I know the text can get dense). The parts I am focusing on are more the actual pieces that are used on the board, connectors, leads, protoboards, wire, etc, things I have not yet purchased. Thought it would be easier to make a new thread since the focus is quite different.

Here is what I've looked into getting so far:

Resistors:

30 values, 300 pieces total, 1/4W, 1% metal.
Values (10 of each): 10Ω、22Ω、 47Ω、100Ω、150Ω、200Ω、220Ω、270Ω、330Ω, 470Ω、510Ω、680Ω、1KΩ、2KΩ、2.2KΩ、3.3KΩ、4.7KΩ、5.1KΩ、6.8KΩ, 10KΩ、20KΩ、47KΩ、51KΩ、68KΩ、100KΩ、220KΩ、300KΩ、470KΩ、680KΩ、1MΩ
Values (picture instead)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112341051881 (3 packs of the above)

64 values, 1280 pieces total, 1/4W, 1% metal
Values (20 of each), picture:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/261374861457 (1 pack)

Ceramic Capacitors:

50 values, total 1000 pieces
Values (20 of each): 1 pf (1), 2 pf (2), 3 pf (3), 4 pf (4), 5 pf (5), 6pf (6), 7pf (7), 8pf (, 9pf (9), 10pf (10), 15pf (15), 18pf (18), 20pf (20), 22pf (22), 27pf (27), 30pf (30), 33pf (33), 40pf (40), 47pf (47), 50pf (50), 56pf (56), 68pf (68), 82pf (82), 100pf (101), 120pf (121), 140pf (141), 150pf (151), 180pf (181), 220pf (221), 300pf (301), 330pf (331), 470pf (471), 560pf (561), 680pf (681), 820pf (821), 1nF (102), 1.5nf (152), 2nf (202), 2.2nf (222), 3.3nf (332), 4.7nf (472), 6.8nf (682), 10nf (103), 15nf (153), 20nf (203), 22nf (223), 33nf (333), 47nf (473), 68nf (683), 100nf (104)
Values (picture instead)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122542633519 (1 pack)

Electrolytic Capacitors:

25 values, 125 pieces total
Values (5 of each): 16V/47uF, 16V/100uF, 16V/220uF, 16V/470uF, 16V/1000uF, 25V/10uF, 25V/47uF, 25V/100uF, 25V/220uF, 25V/330uF, 25V/470u, 25V/1000uF, 25V/2200uF, 50V/1uF   50V/3.3uF, 50V/4.7uF, 50V/6.8uF, 50V/10uF, 50V/33uF, 50V/47uF, 50V/100uF, 50V/220uF, 50V/330uF, 50V/470uF, 50V/1000uF
Values (picture instead):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152015420230 (1 pack)

Polyester/Film Capacitors:
18 values, 180 pieces total
Values (10 of each): 2A471J, 2A102J, 2A152J, 2A182J, 2A222J, 2A332J, 2A472J, 2A562J, 2A682J, 2A103J, 2A153J, 2A223J, 2A333J, 2A473J, 2A563J, 2A683J, 2A104J, 2A224J
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32857807794.html (1 pack)

Diodes:
14 values, 200 pieces total
Values:
Rectifier Diode: 20 * 1N4001 (1A 50V), 20 * 1N4004 (1A 400V), 20 * 1N4007 (1A 1000V), 10 * RL207 (2A 1000V), 10 * 1N5404 (3A 400V), 10 * 1N5406 (3A 600V), 10 * 1N5408 (3A 1000V)
Fast Recovery Diode: 10 * UF4007 (1A 1000V), 10 * FR107 (1A 1000V), 10 * FR207 (2A 1000V)
Switching Diodes: 30 * 1N4148 (200mA 100V)
Schottky Diodes: 10 * 1N5817 (1A 20V), 20 * 1N5819 (1A 40V), 10 * 1N5822 (3A 40V)
Values (picture instead):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273315944592 (1 pack)

LEDs:
5 colors (red yellow green blue white), 2 sizes, 150 pieces total (3V,  20mA)
(Basically 15 of each)
For red, yellow, green, 3mm and 5mm, it is 2V, 20mA, forward voltage 2 - 2.2V.
For blue, white, 3mm and 5mm, it is 3V, 20mA, forward voltage 3 - 3.2V.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/391368927437 (1 pack)

Transistors:
15 value 600pcs Transistor TO-92 Assortment NPN PNP DIY kit
Picture / Values:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222509491667 (1 pack...?)

Male to Male Breadboard Wires:
65 pieces total
Values: Wire Length (include pin part): 24CM (4PCS), 20CM (4PCS), 16CM (8PCS), 12CM (49PCS)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-65pcs-Male-To-Male-Breadboard-Wires-Jumper-Cable-Bread-Board-Wires/32800860317.html (3 packs...?)

Protoboards:
Really unsure what's good here, but I see this on Amazon:
AUSTOR 36 Pieces Double Sided PCB Board Prototype Kit, 5 Sizes Universal Printed Circuit Protoboard with Free Box, for DIY Soldering and Electronic Project
https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Prototype-Universal-Protoboard-Electronic/dp/B074X2GDH2

*******************

Anyway this is as far as I've gotten today in terms of researching various components... I'd really appreciate any feedback. Should I get different components on any of these? Am I missing any crucial things? Should I get additional packs of any of these? Are there other components / items I should get?

I haven't even looked at things like logic chips, MOSFETS (nor do I know if the transistors I have are BJT or FET... not sure what all these different categories mean yet), wire, clamps, leads, opamps(?), zener diodes(?), other things?, etc. Any guidance or advice is much appreciated. Thanks.

[HB9EVI]

for the diodes you don't need from the same type different voltage ratings; just get a bunch of the highest rated 1N4007, 1N5408 a.s.o. the same goes for the schottky, and the 1N4148 is the general propose low power diode for every lab

[sokoloff]

Transistors are BJT (NPN and PNP are BJTs; FETs will be N-channel or P-channel).

That's a decent assortment. (Concur with HB9 on the diodes.)

You're also going to have to get used to buying parts from US distributors if you're in any kind of a hurry. We have the luxury of having several good distributors who can ship parts often 1-2 days for reasonable prices, so don't go nuts trying to have every single part, even jellybean parts, on hand when you decide to start some project. Get somewhat used to buying parts for upcoming projects; anything else and your hobby will become "electronics part curator" rather than "electronics".

I'd get more and different breadboard wires, specifically of the "Dupont" type.
Get a mix of MM, MF, and FF.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female/1899750504.html

I'd also splurge for the "good" breadboards. This is not a place to go cheap, IMO. 3M is a good brand. 3M's breadboards are actually made by Assembly Specialist, who also sell their own brand far cheaper than 3M brand.

[AnyNameWillDo]

Breadboards I already bought some (as opposed to protoboards which I still have not), from here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solderless-MB-102-MB102-Breadboard-830-Tie-Point-PCB-BreadBoard-For-Arduino/170884671651

I did consider 3M ones but they were wayyyyyy more expensive than the cheapies so I balked at the time; I might get one if I find the cheapies are crap.

for the diodes you don't need from the same type different voltage ratings; just get a bunch of the highest rated 1N4007, 1N5408 a.s.o. the same goes for the schottky, and the 1N4148 is the general propose low power diode for every lab

I'm not sure I understand, since this pack comes with a variety and includes the one you're mentioning -- or are you saying most of these diodes are useless? Is there a better pack somewhere that has the more common ones? (most of the packs I am coming across just span the same general variety). Do you usually have to buy these individually/separately?

I'd get more and different breadboard wires, specifically of the "Dupont" type.
Get a mix of MM, MF, and FF.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female/1899750504.html

Nice! I had been looking for something like this (unsuccessfully). I guess I need to get better at knowing what to search for. How many are worth picking up? 3 packs?

[sokoloff]

Start with minimum one 40-pack of each type. They're so cheap that you might get them in 10 and 20cm lengths.

If you're doing a lot of module work with headers on the modules, it's worth getting an assortment of Dupont plastic headers. You can use the Dupont cables above, un-pin the single female connectors, and push the cables into multi-way female connectors. (You can do the same for males as well, but it's less common to need that.) This allows you to have more stable connections to the modules, as well as (nearly) eliminating the mis-cabling possibility.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/620Pcs-Dupont-Connector-2-54mm-Dupont-Cable-Jumper-Wire-Pin-Header-Housing-Kit-Male-Crimp-Pins/32884911697.html?

[HB9EVI]

for the diodes you don't need from the same type different voltage ratings; just get a bunch of the highest rated 1N4007, 1N5408 a.s.o. the same goes for the schottky, and the 1N4148 is the general propose low power diode for every lab

I'm not sure I understand, since this pack comes with a variety and includes the one you're mentioning -- or are you saying most of these diodes are useless? Is there a better pack somewhere that has the more common ones? (most of the packs I am coming across just span the same general variety). Do you usually have to buy these individually/separately?

no they are not useless in that sense; for personal use it just doesn't make sense to stock 1N4001, 1N4004 and 1N4007 - just the one with the highest rating 1N4007 is enough; you can get them in bunch of 10, 20, 50 or 100. it saves to separed storage space for the different ratings; so let's say:

20x 1N4007
20x 1N5408
20x 1N5819
20x 1N5922
100x 1N4148 or 1N914

the ones with lower ratings you just skip

and imo don't save on at least one good breadbord; the cheap ones are a real pain.

[rdl]

I can't imagine a two dollar breadboard being worth using, but maybe you'll be pleasantly surprised. The 840 point 3M breadboards can be found on ebay for under $20 and they're worth the price.

For parts I usually don't buy until I need (and then I buy too many), but have you considered "arduino" starter kits?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=arduino+starter+kit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Project-Breadboard-Univ-Terminal-Strip-840-tie-points-total-3M/200668490915

[AnyNameWillDo]

I can't imagine a two dollar breadboard being worth using, but maybe you'll be pleasantly surprised. The 840 point 3M breadboards can be found on ebay for under $20 and they're worth the price.

For parts I usually don't buy until I need (and then I buy too many), but have you considered "arduino" starter kits?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=arduino+starter+kit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Project-Breadboard-Univ-Terminal-Strip-840-tie-points-total-3M/200668490915

Yes, I do own an Arduino kit already. It does come with a few basic sets of components but hardly anything to consider "staffing-a-lab"-worthy.

I'll pick up two of those 3M breadboards or so -- thanks.

[AnyNameWillDo]

no they are not useless in that sense; for personal use it just doesn't make sense to stock 1N4001, 1N4004 and 1N4007 - just the one with the highest rating 1N4007 is enough; you can get them in bunch of 10, 20, 50 or 100. it saves to separed storage space for the different ratings; so let's say:

20x 1N4007
20x 1N5408
20x 1N5819
20x 1N5922
100x 1N4148 or 1N914

This one doesn't seem to have 1N5922 but it appears to have the rest? Or did you mean 1N5822 (which is included)?

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1N4148-1N4007-1N5819-1N5399-1N5408-1N5822-FR107-FR207-8values-100pcs-Electronic-Components-Package-Diode-Assorted-Kit/506373_32324540223.html

So I can get 4 of these and that should be good

[T3sl4co1l]

Heh, might not bother with general purpose diodes, just go for the high speed versions -- they cost about the same, and you can build SMPS projects whenever you like without buying more parts.  UF400x and 540x families are numbered the same, and it might be worth having some 1N5819, MBR160, SB340, SB540 or whatever on hand for lower voltage, higher speed, higher current rectification.

Regarding ceramic caps, prefer C0G for smaller values (<= 1nF), and higher voltage ratings (>= 50V) for MLCCs in higher values (> 10nF?).  Avoid anything worse than Y5P or X7R (i.e., worse than +/-20%, 85 or preferably 125C).  You'll probably still end up with the larger values (> 0.1uF?) having awful C(V) curves (i.e., C drops below 70% of rated value, at a fraction of rated voltage), so, eh, probably consider anything in that range to be a special purchase when and if you need it (say for the 50V SMPS you always wanted to make, that you absolutely need 1 actual uF at 50V for -- when the time comes, take the time to read datasheets carefully and find something you are sure will work).

If you get ceramic discs, 50V is probably a fine voltage rating, but 500V or 1kV can be quite affordable in smaller values.  Keep this in mind if you'll be working with high voltage or RF.

Film caps are absolutely fine, having better tolerance and value in the mid range (1-100nF).  They get large and expensive in higher values, as it's hard to make, say, a 10uF 50V capacitor (while it's quite easy to find, say, 10uF 630V caps -- they're just huge and probably more expensive than you need!).  If you need big film caps, say for a precision timer, consider that a special purchase.

If you'll be recapping vintage equipment, say, a stock of various values in higher voltages (250-1000V) is definitely a good idea.  Doesn't hurt for power and resonant (and LF radio) experiments, either.

Inductors?  Eh, you can do quite a lot of circuits without.  Power conversion is rather hard to do effectively without.  Some radio projects can be done without, but as soon as you need passive tuning and filtering, you need them.  A selection of small values (say 0.47 to 10uH, look for reasonable Imax, DCR, Q) would be handy then.  Maybe just stock up on others as needed.  Also consider buying or salvaging cores and winding your own -- if you don't mind the tedium of winding!

Transistors: just don't get 2N2222.  At best, you're paying too much.  At worst, you're being lied to (or believing the lie).  Legit 2N2222(A) is TO-18 metal can, period.  I think most people mean "PN2222(A)" (plastic TO-92) when they say "2N..".  If you ordered 2N and received PN, you at least got ripped off.  2N4401 (and PNP = '03) is better spec'd, and rated just as well.  Or if you don't need the 600mA rating, 2N3904/6 (200mA) is preferable: less capacitance = more speed (without getting squirrely as RF transistors do -- not that you can get MPSH10/81s anymore, sadly).

Likewise, avoid 2N3055 (metal can; plastic version MJE..).  They're harder to work with, the spec is absurdly poor, you have no idea what you're actually getting, and they're often counterfeit or salvaged.  If you need power transistors, better to stick to well-specified types (MJ(E)15xxx range parts, for example, which start roughly around '3055 capability and go up from there), and name brands (On Semi, Sanken..).

And if you're considering a bench supply, a linear pass reg one is a good early project, but don't try and overkill it -- consider doing an SMPS for that instead.  You'll hardly need to fumble with heatsinks, and you'll learn that much more.

Tim

[AnyNameWillDo]

What are you trying to build? I recommend not to stock on parts, and only buy parts when you finished designing. Leftovers will build up naturally.

A wide variety of projects in mind (I'm mostly in this to learn, experiment, tinker, etc), so not any one thing in particular.

[AnyNameWillDo]

How about these Zener diodes?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chanzon-30-Values-300pcs-1W-3V-47V-Zener-Diode-Assorted-Kit-1Watt-Assortment-Set/273318297950

10 * 1N4727A (3V)
10 * 1N4728A (3.3V)
10 * 1N4729A (3.6V)
10 * 1N4730A (3.9V)
10 * 1N4731A (4.3V)
10 * 1N4732A (4.7V)
10 * 1N4733A (5.1V)
10 * 1N4734A (5.6V)
10 * 1N4735A (6.2V)
10 * 1N4736A (6.8V)
10 * 1N4737A (7.5V)
10 * 1N4738A (8.2V)
10 * 1N4739A (9.1V)
10 * 1N4740A (10V)
10 * 1N4741A (11V)
10 * 1N4742A (12V)
10 * 1N4743A (13V)
10 * 1N4744A (15V)
10 * 1N4745A (16V)
10 * 1N4746A (18V)
10 * 1N4747A (20V)
10 * 1N4748A (22V)
10 * 1N4749A (24V)
10 * 1N4750A (27V)
10 * 1N4751A (30V)
10 * 1N4752A (33V)
10 * 1N4753A (36V)
10 * 1N4754A (39V)
10 * 1N4755A (43V)
10 * 1N4756A (47V)

Or these protoboards? https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Prototype-Universal-Protoboard-Electronic/dp/B074X2GDH2

[tooki]

It’s really a pain that you keep making more threads, since the advice you’ve already been given on these items isn’t visible to those posting now.

Those are exactly the kind of protoboards I meant, and that’s a great price. 


I already told you how to get the 3M breadboards for a fraction of the normal price, by ordering them directly from Assembly Specialist (their actual manufacturer). You talk about not wanting to have to rebuy, and then cheap out on the ONE item where everyone unanimously agrees you shouldn’t skimp...


DuPont jumpers: those are what I meant. IMHO, buy 5 sets of each kind. You can’t have enough of them as they get occupied with projects that are stuck halfway.

Skip the zener assortment. Maybe pick up a 5ish-volt zener to play with and learn how they work. But you won’t reallt need them much.

Resistors: I’d get one or two of the 300 piece sets, and then also order a bunch of extra 1K and 10K resistors, somehow I find I use tons more of them than other values. (And also some extra 220 and 330 ohm, since those are what you use to run LEDs off of 3.3 and 5V.)


I’d also pick up some basic opamps to play with. I suggest some 741, NE5532, and either TL072 or 082.

The CD4017 decade counter is also a great fun beginner chip (e.g. chasing LEDs).

And of course some classic 555 timers.

All those ICs, together with the resistors and caps you’ve listed, and LEDs, make for some great learning and fun.

[AnyNameWillDo]

It’s really a pain that you keep making more threads, since the advice you’ve already been given on these items isn’t visible to those posting now.

Those are exactly the kind of protoboards I meant, and that’s a great price. 


I already told you how to get the 3M breadboards for a fraction of the normal price, by ordering them directly from Assembly Specialist (their actual manufacturer). You talk about not wanting to have to rebuy, and then cheap out on the ONE item where everyone unanimously agrees you shouldn’t skimp...


DuPont jumpers: those are what I meant. IMHO, buy 5 sets of each kind. You can’t have enough of them as they get occupied with projects that are stuck halfway.

Skip the zener assortment. Maybe pick up a 5ish-volt zener to play with and learn how they work. But you won’t reallt need them much.

Resistors: I’d get one or two of the 300 piece sets, and then also order a bunch of extra 1K and 10K resistors, somehow I find I use tons more of them than other values. (And also some extra 220 and 330 ohm, since those are what you use to run LEDs off of 3.3 and 5V.)


I’d also pick up some basic opamps to play with. I suggest some 741, NE5532, and either TL072 or 082.

The CD4017 decade counter is also a great fun beginner chip (e.g. chasing LEDs).

And of course some classic 555 timers.

All those ICs, together with the resistors and caps you’ve listed, and LEDs, make for some great learning and fun.

I did look at those 3M boards on the AS site, but there so many variants and types that I got overwhelmed without knowing more and lost track of it. Unless I missed a comment somewhere, is the SS252 what you were referencing? Edit: However the shipping charges on the AS site are steep -- price is lower to get the 3M board on ebay in this case.

I'll check out those other components too -- thanks

741: Unsure of this one as of yet... lots of variants.

NE552 I think: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-NE5532-5532-Dual-Low-Noise-Op-Amp-IC-Texas-Brand-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping/223015694297

TL072: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-TL072-LOW-NOISE-J-FET-DUAL-OP-AMP-IC-USA-Seller-Free-Shipping/323271252084

CD4017 decade counter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-CD4017-4017-DECADE-COUNTER-DIVIDER-IC-TEXAS-BRAND-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping/323161690070

555 timers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/50PCS-NE555P-NE555-NE555N-DIP-8-SINGLE-BIPOLAR-TIMERS-IC-US-SHIPPING-M175/113156855492

[T3sl4co1l]

Zener assortment is fine, though I find I don't use many, personally.  1N52xx may be better (1/2 vs. 1W) if you'll be using them more for signal clamping than shunt regulating (less capacitance).  3.3, 5.1, 6.2, 9.0, 12 and 15V values are probably must-haves.  You can always boost a smaller zener with a power transistor if you need more.

Speaking of references, TL431 definitely, and LM4040 or family if you need more precision.

Tim

[ez24]

I suggest do not get 1/4 w resistors, the leads are too thin especially using cheap boards.  Somewhere on this forum there are suggestions on how to pick a good cheap board vs a bad cheap board.   You have to use a mag glass and examine the "fingers".  Maybe someone with a better memory will let us know.  I agree with others, a cheap board will drive you nuts.

[AnyNameWillDo]

Are there any good kits with 74HC/74HTC logic chips? I'm only finding the same kit everywhere and it only has one of each:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Types-74HC-Series-Logic-IC-Assortment-Kit-High-Speed-Si-Gate-CMOS-IC-In-As/202107524516

Maybe I am better off sourcing things individually from Digikey for these...

[tooki]

I did look at those 3M boards on the AS site, but there so many variants and types that I got overwhelmed without knowing more and lost track of it. Unless I missed a comment somewhere, is the SS252 what you were referencing? Edit: However the shipping charges on the AS site are steep -- price is lower to get the 3M board on ebay in this case.

I wasn’t referring to any specific model. I personally find it handy to have various size breadboards, from little tiny things like the TS273, all the way to big ones like BB318. Sometimes it’s nice to have the baseplate, sometimes it’s nice to have a little bare breadboard. Just depends on the project, you know?

Yes, AS’s shipping is steep, but their prices are so low on the actual items that it’s worth it. (For example, a single 3M ACE309 is $44 on Digi-Key, vs $16 (!!) on AS for the BB309. Even with shipping it’s cheaper, but if you make a sensible order of, say, 5 or 6 various size breadboards, you’ll come out ahead even compared to eBay.

I’ve only got one 3M breadboard at the moment. I keep meaning to place an order with AS to pick up when I’m in the US next... I’m tired of using the cheap ones where components easily pull out... I also found (and threw out) some among my cheap ones with such bad contacts that there were several ohms (!) contact resistance. In analog especially, stuff like that can ruin your day. But loose contacts suck regardless of what type of circuit it is.

I'll check out those other components too -- thanks

741: Unsure of this one as of yet... lots of variants.

NE552 I think: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-NE5532-5532-Dual-Low-Noise-Op-Amp-IC-Texas-Brand-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping/223015694297

TL072: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-TL072-LOW-NOISE-J-FET-DUAL-OP-AMP-IC-USA-Seller-Free-Shipping/323271252084

CD4017 decade counter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-CD4017-4017-DECADE-COUNTER-DIVIDER-IC-TEXAS-BRAND-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping/323161690070

NE5532: FYI, should you get into audio stuff, then eventually you might consider ordering some guaranteed-genuine NE5532’s from Digi-Key. They perform better than the who-knows-where-they-came-from ones off eBay. But for experimenting, the eBay ones are fine.

If you’re considering a digi-key order anyway, you might just get these jellybean ICs from them. They’re in the same price ballpark as this Thaishine vendor at quantities of 10 (but fromm digikey you can also just order just 2 or 3 to play with), and you’ll know they’re genuine.
UA741: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/UA741CP/296-11107-5-ND/382197
TL072: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/TL072IP/296-14997-5-ND/563039
NE5532: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/SA5532AP/296-16995-5-ND/656520 (The SA prefix is the extended-temperature version, the -AP means guaranteed low noise. For whatever reason these are cheaper than the regular version!)
CD4017: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/CD4017BE/296-2037-5-ND/67253
555: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/SE555P/296-9684-5-ND/380221 (again, extended-temp version is cheaper here)

555 timers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/50PCS-NE555P-NE555-NE555N-DIP-8-SINGLE-BIPOLAR-TIMERS-IC-US-SHIPPING-M175/113156855492

I don’t think you need to get 50 pieces. Get a few and see from there if they’re something you want to use a lot or not. Some people find a way to put a 555 in seemigly every project, others quickly dismiss them altogether and rely on small microcontrollers. Play around and see which camp you end up gravitating towards.

Are there any good kits with 74HC/74HTC logic chips? I'm only finding the same kit everywhere and it only has one of each:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Types-74HC-Series-Logic-IC-Assortment-Kit-High-Speed-Si-Gate-CMOS-IC-In-As/202107524516

Maybe I am better off sourcing things individually from Digikey for these...

I wouldn’t buy any in advance. Assuming discrete logic is even something you want to get into (cuz an Arduino can do most of this stuff cheaper and easier, so it’s purely a mental exercise) you can use digital logic simulator software to actually design and debug the logic, and then you’ll know what gates you need and can start making a parts list.


I forget if someone mentioned them yet, but one other thing I’d get a few of is MOSFETs (logic-level, ideally), since they let you control bigger loads (like LED strips) from the small signals from an Arduino.
For example: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-siliconix/IRLZ14PBF/IRLZ14PBF-ND/811728 (10A, very fast)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/infineon-technologies/IRLB8748PBF/IRLB8748PBF-ND/2127672 (78A, a bit slower)

Again, maybe just get a few to play with and then later order as needed for projects. (Tip: though it won’t include all brands, searching for MOSFETs that begin with “IRL” is an easy way to restrict to logic-level ones. [“IR” originally stood for the vendor “international rectifier”.])

Here’s a fun exercise, one straight from some projects of mine: rig up an LED strip to be PWM dimmed from an Arduino via a MOSFET. Try different MOSFET types with different specs and use your oscilloscope to see how different ones turn on and off at different speeds. (The gate capacitance of a MOSFET affects its speed and its resistance when turned on: small capacitance is fast but gives higher resistance, larger capacitance is slower but gives lower resistance. Think about, and visualize with the scope, how this affects efficiency at a given PWM rate, given that a MOSFET’s resistance is worst during the transitional period between fully-on and fully-off, so that’s when it’s going to be inefficient and give off heat.)

[AnyNameWillDo]

Yeah, as of yesterday, finally starting to understand the DigiKey site a little better -- getting the ICs/chips there instead.

[AnyNameWillDo]

What about clips, leads, wires to actually connect components on boards, etc?

e.g. stuff like
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRABU/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU1Y/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU3C/

or something else/more?

[HB9EVI]

all of them are quite useful depending on the needs; it's good to have some

[rdl]

I bought a set of those alligator type about 15 years ago. I don't remember ever using them. I find the minigrabber style much more usable. It's also good to have some minigrabber to banana plug cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Pomona-5523-Minigrabber-Test-Patch/dp/B00ES4NK60/


As with most things, you can find cheaper knockoffs on ebay.

[tooki]

What about clips, leads, wires to actually connect components on boards, etc?

e.g. stuff like
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRABU/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU1Y/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU3C/

or something else/more?

I already answered this in my very first reply to you in your first thread. (I’d skip big alligator clips and only go for minigrabbers.) I use minigrabber to banana cables for measurements A LOT.

[Old Printer]

If you are interested in learning digital logic there are a couple of excellent YouTube tutorial series. Ben Eater has done a lot and he always lists the necessary parts. Another very good series is by PyroElectro. His tutorials are in conjunction with an online supplier that has assembled parts kits of all the necessary logic chips and other parts. The kits can be purchased section by section, or for the whole series. There are links in the videos to the supplier The Gadgitory
https://gadgetory.com and https://youtu.be/eatP-9yNa3Y

[bson]

3.3, 5.1, 6.2, 9.0, 12 and 15V values are probably must-haves.

Or considering replacing them with 1.8V, 2.5V, 6V.  A half-rail zener and a resistor makes for a quick and dirty reference or bias voltage.  It can then be replaced later if needed but it's really pretty handy on a breadboard.