I like to limit/eliminate the number of single/lone pins and jumpers in the board. To do this, I use breadboard as a wire wrap board. So instead of sticking 1 jumper into a hole, I put rows of pin headers in the board and wrap to the make the connections. That leaves none of the wiggle that a lone pin/jumper will have, which can loosen or change impedance when you touch it. Stick a section of 5 plus square header pins in a board and try to move it. It will tilt a little in only one direction (the direction that doesn't strain the connectors), and even that will take some force.
If you want to, say, stick an LCD or any pcb adapter into the board, you can solder extra long pins in the PCB, so that it plugs into the board, physically. And you can also wrap directly to the pins sticking out the top of the pcb, rather than have to plug another row of header pins into the board, next to it.
Your scope probes can clip to any of these pins. Rather than rigging up a (loose wiggly) adapter that sticks into the breadboard and requires having the space to do so.
if you shove a large pin into them the contacts often get a bit damaged and wont work well afterwards on flat pins like i.c.'s
For parts like T220 or large pots, I use pliers to twist all the leads 90 degrees. (The connectors in the board squeeze side to side, in one direction. Once you figure this out, the orientation is obvious. If you don't understand this, peel the back off a section and take a look at the nickel plated spring clips that plug into it from the bottom).
For parts like 4A diodes, solder them to section of header pin, first.
Essentially, most of the time it's a square header pin or an IC pin or a skinny component lead that goes in there. So far, I have had no problem switching from 0.025" header pin and IC pins, which measure at about 19 mil. If it looks too big or too small, put calipers on it. Don't stick things larger than 25 mil. (And beware the large, single lead/pin. It may measure 25 mil, but when it is twisted or wiggled side to side, it is flexing the connectors in the board!) You obviously want the board to continue to work with IC pins at 19 mil.
Loose jumpers of 22-24 gauge might have lower resistance, but they will eventually cause problem when the number of connections gets high enough, IMO. For signals, the impedance of the wire, itself, is not the problem to begin with, in most circuits. If 4 mils trace on 1/2 oz pour is good enough, 30AWG wire is monstrous.
+1 on Wish, Global, and 3M. I can't tell the difference between 3M and Global. They are both fine, in my book. Wish are a different color plastic that is more fully opaque. And the red and blue lines are reversed on the Wish (or is it Wisher?) boards. But they might have the strongest connectors inside.
Beware some of the unique boards... if it doesn't look like the 3m style with the removeable bus strips, some of these don't even have the right spacing between the power rail and the main board. These need to be exactly 0.3" and 0.4" between the power and ground rails and the edge of the board so you can make reusable plug ins for the board. I had one from Rat Shack where the spacing was 0.35 and 0.25, or something akin to that. This doesn't work with vero/proto board, doh.