Soldering station

[neo]

I want to build my own soldering station and i have an iron but i have no clue how to with this iron ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/322119640797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ) i know i can do the rest of it but i just cant get my head around how to interface with the iron

[ataradov]

There are two pins for the heating element and two pins for the temperature sensor. Apply 24 volts to the heating element until sensor reports desired temperature, then start lowering the voltage. Make sure that you have 50W power supply (2A, 24V).

But the reason is not clear, Chinese soldering stations are dirt cheap. There is no way you will make something cheaper.

EDIT: Or they actually sell assembled control boards for about the same price as this iron. All you need to do is add mains transformer.

[ataradov]

Therefore, by building a high quality control box plus

How much time and effort will go into building one? I'm not sure if it is worth it in any way.

Also, I find it hard to believe that there are genuine Hakko irons on eBay. Hakko must sell those consumables in the  US as well, or Chinese people are somehow more privileged here?

Also, what features we are talking about? It is a temperature regulator.

[ataradov]

2. Clone handle with replacement silicone rubber cable+genuine heating element+genuine tips, the latter ones can be easily purchased at Hakko sales channel.

And they cost like half of the new soldering station that includes that iron, not really feeling the "consumable" aspect of it. I see it the same way as batteries for power tools - in many cases it is cheaper to throw the whole thing away and buy a new one than buying new batteries.

[P90]

There's also the option to buy a nice Hakko or weller station for $100, and with proper care it will last you a long time.

[ataradov]

$5 handle, $10 heater

Where I can get them at this price? Especially the handle.

[BravoV]

The key components to have good performance is the tip, heater and of course the "RIGHT" controller that handle/drive the genuine heater properly.

Just check this thread where I use cheap handle but with genuine heater, of course using genuine Hakko controller ->  Hakko 936 ceramic heater A1321 vs fake comparison.

Fake handle are dirt cheap, and beware, some dirt cheap Hakko clone heater are using 2 wires and the controller will not work on genuine heater.


Edit :

Also about the tip, the fake and genuine one is like night and day, although its quite old, its worth to check it out here -> Genuine vs fake Hakko tip

[P90]

There's also the option to buy a nice Hakko or weller station for $100, and with proper care it will last you a long time.

Rumors say FX888/WES51 are inferior compared to FX936. The true successor of FX936 is FX937, then FX951, which is not cheap at all.
Also, a DIY one can be reprogrammed to do things you want such as new features, or can be tuned for their PID controller to accommodate your soldering preference and PCB design as well as solder alloy.

I guess it depends on one's needs.
I think for a basic hobbyist the FX888 or WES51will most likely suffice. If you are more of an advanced user, or neef the speed, just drop the coin on an Ersa or JBC and be done with it...

[ataradov]

A clone 936 handle with silicone rubber cable.

Ok, I missed the 'clone' part originally.

TBH, I don't really see the difference between Hakko and a generic clone. For the longest time I was using Aoyue 968A before switching it for a Hakko FX-888D and the difference is negligible. In fact I still use Aoyue tips, since Hakko ones are just horrible for my taste.

EDIT: Hakko does heat up a bit faster, but I don't see how a few seconds are relevant.

Metcal is a different story entirely (and the price as well ).

[ataradov]

Interesting. In China we use clone controllers and genuine tips, exactly reversed.

I described it somewhere on this forum. And I guess the downside of the cloned tips is an advantage for me. Genuine tips wet real easy, so I have no control over the solder on the tip, it just rolls way up, and it is impossible to transfer to the soldered parts. With the clones, I can put a ball of solder anywhere on the wettable part of the tip, and it stays put

Here it is: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/problem-with-hakko-tips/msg874535/

[P90]

I bought a Yihua 937D. It's got a nice silicon cord and a stainless steel heater element. It heats up quickly and seems to maintain tip temperature ok. I do hate lead free solder thought,

[neo]

you ask why i want to do it? i have everything i need on hand to build an analogue controller, i had 60 dollars till i tried to buy a better one and was ripped off and my current one eats tips like candy

[neo]

also my problem is i dont know which sensor it is, from what i know there has to be a sensor in the device to match the one in the iron

[ataradov]

and my current one eats tips like candy

You are probably using some highly corrosive flux. I doubt it can be solved by changing the way you control the temperature of the iron.

Typically sensors are PTC thermistors, and the only thing you have to match is a rated resistance.

[Mephitus]

If you are wanting to build a nice soldering station, might I recommend the equivalent to what I use?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-metcal-13-56-mhz-rf-supply/
The tips are a bit more expensive, but DAMN do I love mine.

Alternatively, there are several people here on the forums that have NOS hakko units they are willing to sell to forum members for very reasonable prices. (Like $40-50) If you post in the section for sale/buy about what you are looking for, you will probly get replies pretty quick. Save yourself a ton of hassle and money.