Transformer Identification

[derek]

Hi,

I am trying to repair a Line6 Pod Pro Amp, which the fault appears to a faulty transformer.

Being a beginner at electronics, I am having problems identifying the transformer. I have attached a photograph of the transformer label. I would appreciate some help in identifying the transformer to get a replacement.

[Cliff Matthews]

Welcome! Many transformers are custom wound. I found a parts link if it helps: http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/LN6/Replacement-Service-Parts.html. I see a 2 in the middle of that part number, so it may be a more costly class 2 type (they have internal thermal safety fusing within). Try emailing the parts link to get some specs and go from there...

On this forum more info is better (from testing/viewing the equipment):
Power consumption and voltage on the rear panel, any resistance tests you've done, type of secondary windings (center tap, multi-tap), approximate current rating of rectifier diodes or bridge, voltage rating on bulk filter capacitors (after rectifier).

[johansen]

how about replacing the thermal fuse in the existing transformer?

[derek]

Hi,

Thank you for the information, the problem with the transformer, was there was no power comming out it. So maybe the thermal fuse had blown.

But the pins connecting the transformer input and output pulled out when I desoldered the transformer.

Do you think that the PCB solder pins are push in?

I will investigate this, just in case the Full Compass can not supply a replacement.

One question concerning Transformer markings, is there any information to decode what the codes actually mean.

[Gyro]

The PCB pins are not just push it (well, they will have been push fitted during manufacture of the bobbin). What happened is that long desoldering temperature softened the plastic all allowed them to pull out. Unfortunately this will mean that the ends of the windings that were soldered to the pins will have snapped. You might be able to repair the secondary ones, but the primary wire is very thin, with no slack and is probably impossible to repair. Sorry. Take a close look with a magnifier to be sure.

[derek]

Hi,

The pins on the Primary Coil connection were loose and the transformer could be raised from the PCB, leaving the pins soldered to the board.

I probably unsoldered the secondary side with my desoldering gun set at 350 Deg C

But Line6 Customer Support have pointed toward a Company in the UK, maybe they can supply a new transformer.

[Cliff Matthews]

Check to see if the primary is open. If it is, the recommended solution is a new transformer, since getting at the fuse may require a lot of work (peeling back insulation plastic/paper, cutting copper band shields, etc..) to find something like this http://www.thermodisc.com/en-US/Products/Microtemp/Pages/G4.aspx. As for transformer markings, I've never seen any standards enforcement, likely since if mains voltage enters a chassis, then whole assembly has to undergo certification. Whatever bulk bought parts within the chassis that constitute a NEC or NEMA "hazardous area" would have to be supplied with their own documents yada, yada you get the drift..

[Gyro]

If the transformer primary pins were already loose and the transformer coming away from the PCB then that's almost certainly the original cause of your problem (it would have needed a circuit fault to make a thermal fuse blow). Maybe a drop or shipping damage?

If you can source a replacement, then try to secure it to the PCB better - maybe a double sided adhesive pad or hot melt glue to avoid the same problem. They're usually pretty tough though so it might have taken quite a knock (road gear?).

Edit: A quick search for "Line6 Pod Pro schematics" brought up quite a few hits for various Line 6 stuff. With a bit of searching you may be able to pull up the relevant schematic or service manual to establish the secondary voltage rating.