USB Hub-66B 7 Ports (Lets play missing parts)

[mictas]

*Notice, details found, will be listed down below this post.*

====== Original Post ======

Okay, so I've been thinking about trying one of those USB Flash drive Raid setup.

So right now I have this little number.

http://imgur.com/a/AFJbT

By looking at this I am thinking of installing a number of capacitors, but since my skills are really limited, I understand I am going to need both through-hole and SMD.

Also soldering the tabs on each USB connector, would be a good idea?
And as for a power supply, what plug size do I need, and yes I think I will be using a 7805 before between the hub and the power brick.

And I would like to install a LED for the power, I still need to test the voltage level.

====== Original Post End ======


====== Theory ======

First off, after attaching this to my Linux PC, I found it reported mt USB HUB back as a D-Link DUB-H4 and another company called Genesys logic, Inc

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Now second, on this USB HUB, I have found were I can install a 'ON/Powered LED' but since I found it was outputting 4.8v, to attach a red LED, I will need to add a 310ohm resistor, if you plan on using another color LED, you will need another resistor value.

-----------------------

In that case you can just solder 0.1 uF caps for both SMD and through-hole. But that change won't have any visible changes.

Solder the tabs and place the through hole capacitors. 10uF 16V are probably about the best fit there, high enough value to do something and low enough that they total less than the maximum allowed for a USB hub.

Third, as you can see above, ataradov recommends a 0.1 uF capacitors, for both the through-hole and surface mount, while SeanB has recommends 10uF 16V capacitors for both.
I think they are both right, however I would use 10uF 16V capacitors for the through-hole and 0.1 uF capacitors for the surface mount.

-----------------------

For frothed, because of the really crappy USB cable, I plan to take it off and replace it with another one. I now have an old ZTE phone and data cable, that I found and will be soldering that to my USB HUB, in includes a ferrite core, keeping the cable from pilling out, is going to be another challenge.

I have a couple of those, they are all-right as far as cheap hubs go, I'd be surprised if adding the missing caps would make any difference unless you are seeing some particular problem.

I modded one by putting a standard 5.5/2.1 jack in the top and tucked a miniature buck converter inside so I could plug in any old random 5v+ supply, instead of the silly mini barrel jack it has (which I suspect might be the very old nokia phone size?).

Also, sleemanj has posted his power mod, and recommends an old Nokia power plug might fit, sadly the in inner barrel is too small, howeverfor the over all barrel size, it is.

That is an unsatisfactory way to solve the problem, as it will almost guarantee your hub violates USB spec when bus-powered.

Monkeh has pointed out that a 3/3.5A power adapter should cover most things, and my toss in the air of 6A is a tad on the over kill side.
Still I am worried about voltage feedback over the USB cable, back into the PC and think something like what is shown on the bottom of this Pi Wiki post, would be needed as a mod. http://elinux.org/RPi_Powered_USB_Hubs

It would mean that I could not only power my Pi2, but also have it running a Flash drive Raid plus a nice beefy Wifi card.

====== Theory End ======

Okay, so I felt like giving this a test and I have to say, it was rather depressing.

Pictures times, and the Application used is called Speedout https://sites.google.com/site/mbentefor/projecs-speedout

Please note I used the same SanDisk 16 GB USB 3.0 Flash drive for all tests and in the same USB port on my laptop.

This was the test of the flash drive, plugged into the USB port on my laptop:



Now this test is through the first USB port on the USB HUB:



This is on USB Port seven on the USB Hub:



---

Now the following two are after I replaced the USB cable, something much better. WAY better.

USB Hub Port one:



USB Port Seven:




To start with I knew this was a peace of junk, but I will say this... I had no clue it was this bad, so warning. These are being sold in Australia.

While trying to replace the USB cable, I lifted both the Data + and Data - solder point. While I did manage to save it....

Yea, after this it is going in the bin.

So that is me done, with for the luck of me only wasting, just shy of $4 .

Plus, I have seen these being sold in Australia. Ah the Fun.

[ataradov]

1. Why not use it as is?
2. What kind of performance do you expect from this junky hub?
3. I'm pretty sure standard 500 mA port will be able to power 7 flash drives.

[mictas]

1. Why not use it as is?
2. What kind of performance do you expect from this junky hub?
3. I'm pretty sure standard 500 mA port will be able to power 7 flash drives.

When I had a look inside, I felt this could be a fun little project.

[ataradov]

In that case you can just solder 0.1 uF caps for both SMD and through-hole. But that change won't have any visible changes.

[TheUnnamedNewbie]

I haven't looked at the way the things are wired in too much detail, but I've seen cheap-o Chinese stuff have footprints for the same part in both through hole and SMD version. This way they could make a single massive run of boards and use whatever part (SMD, Throughole, ..) happens to be cheapest that week on the shenzen market. So I'm not sure but it might not actually be missing parts.

EDIT: taking a better look at the detailed pictures I realise this might not be the case here. I would at least solder the tabs on the USB ports, that way you will be puting force on them instead of the (often rather fragile) pins.

[SeanB]

Solder the tabs and place the through hole capacitors. 10uF 16V are probably about the best fit there, high enough value to do something and low enough that they total less than the maximum allowed for a USB hub.

[Monkeh]

Solder the tabs and place the through hole capacitors. 10uF 16V are probably about the best fit there, high enough value to do something and low enough that they total less than the maximum allowed for a USB hub.

Hubs don't have a maximum capacitance, they have a minimum capacitance.

Needless to say, this utter turd doesn't achieve it.

[mictas]

Solder the tabs and place the through hole capacitors. 10uF 16V are probably about the best fit there, high enough value to do something and low enough that they total less than the maximum allowed for a USB hub.

Okay, so now that I have had a change to stew over this for a while and I will go with what SeanB has said and buy a few 10uF 16V capacitors and I would like to ask, if anyone knows if the same value of  capacitors can be used right on the USB ports for the SMD C1, C19, C18, C20, C22, C24 and etc... and what package would fit?

I would like to ask, this

Z6.0M any clue what is it? It look as if I should install a second one.

Another, mod I am thinking of doing is replacing the USB cable, with something better shielding. And yes I will be soldering the TAB's on the USB ports.

Now the LED port, for letting you know it is on, outputs 4.8v. Like everywhere else. I'll look at adding a 310ohm resistor along with a red LED.

[Monkeh]

Why do you want to put so much effort into polishing that turd?

[mictas]

Why do you want to put so much effort into polishing that turd?

I was hoping to leave the Mythbusters version of Dorodango out of this.

[tszaboo]

I have a similar, 4 port hub. I use it to power stuff which I would unplug-replug otherwise regularly, like dev boards programmers and 5 dollar logic analyzers. I had to remove the LEDs, they are way too annoying though, It had the worst soldering inside ever.
I OCDd, it had to be fixed.

[sleemanj]

I have a couple of those, they are all-right as far as cheap hubs go, I'd be surprised if adding the missing caps would make any difference unless you are seeing some particular problem.

I modded one by putting a standard 5.5/2.1 jack in the top and tucked a miniature buck converter inside so I could plug in any old random 5v+ supply, instead of the silly mini barrel jack it has (which I suspect might be the very old nokia phone size?).

[mictas]

I have a couple of those, they are all-right as far as cheap hubs go, I'd be surprised if adding the missing caps would make any difference unless you are seeing some particular problem.

I modded one by putting a standard 5.5/2.1 jack in the top and tucked a miniature buck converter inside so I could plug in any old random 5v+ supply, instead of the silly mini barrel jack it has (which I suspect might be the very old nokia phone size?).

Huh, I might have to give the Nokia one a try, thanks for that.

I'm thinking it might be best to add a diode onto the USB cable's five volt line to prevent possible voltage feedback into a PC, from the DC input.

I found an old ZTE USB cable, which I have cut and will be replacing with the attached USB cable, it has a Ferrite bead in the cable which, is something else I wanted to add to this.

--

Anyway, I kind of wish whoever has manufactured, these hubs. Had used an IC that allows them to run the IC's in series. Looking at the board, to me it looks as if one USB port was sacrificed to connect a second IC. Or we could be looking at an eight USB port hub.

[Monkeh]

Anyway, I kind of wish whoever has manufactured, these hubs. Had used an IC that allows them to run the IC's in series. Looking at the board, to me it looks as if one USB port was sacrificed to connect a second IC. Or we could be looking at an eight USB port hub.

.. they are run 'in series'. That's how USB hubs work, they're chained.

What you have is an extremely poor layout, on a single layer PCB, with substandard components. It has no chance of ever meeting USB 2.0 specs (throwing a diode and some random caps in is not going to cut it), or performing decently.

If you want to turn it into a decent hub, start by throwing the PCB away.

E: And unless I'm missing it, there is no connection between host VBUS and hub VBUS.

[mictas]

Anyway, I kind of wish whoever has manufactured, these hubs. Had used an IC that allows them to run the IC's in series. Looking at the board, to me it looks as if one USB port was sacrificed to connect a second IC. Or we could be looking at an eight USB port hub.

.. they are run 'in series'. That's how USB hubs work, they're chained.

What you have is an extremely poor layout, on a single layer PCB, with substandard components. It has no chance of ever meeting USB 2.0 specs (throwing a diode and some random caps in is not going to cut it), or performing decently.

If you want to turn it into a decent hub, start by throwing the PCB away.

E: And unless I'm missing it, there is no connection between host VBUS and hub VBUS.

I'm just going to post this, so I don't forget.

However this looks like a toss together of old D-Link parts. Under Mint, it comes up as 'Genesys logic, Inc' and D-Link DUB-H4, lol well mine anyway.

http://www.dlink.com.au/home-solutions/4-port-powered-usb-hub

And if I am looking at a correct photo, the power supply the D-Link DUB-H4 is 5v 3A. So I would need a 5v 6A power sully to fully match that. (ouch)

And as for the whole diode thing, I wanted to look at following this http://elinux.org/RPi_Powered_USB_Hubs
Or this to be pointing my finger:


Please click on the wiki page above.

[Monkeh]

However this looks like a toss together of old D-Link parts. Under Mint, it comes up as 'Genesys logic, Inc' and D-Link DUB-H4, lol well mine anyway.

Because D-Link used the same bargain basement ICs in one of their hubs. Even D-Link don't make such poor products. There is no relation.

And if I am looking at a correct photo, the power supply the D-Link DUB-H4 is 5v 3A. So I would need a 5v 6A power sully to fully match that. (ouch)

You need a 5V power supply capable of supplying however much power you're planning to use. Strictly, that would be 3.5A max for this hub, plus leeway. Realistically, 3A is plenty unless you're planning to use further hardware which ignores specs.

And as for the whole diode thing, I wanted to look at following this http://elinux.org/RPi_Powered_USB_Hubs
Or this to be pointing my finger:

That is an unsatisfactory way to solve the problem, as it will almost guarantee your hub violates USB spec when bus-powered.

[mictas]

However this looks like a toss together of old D-Link parts. Under Mint, it comes up as 'Genesys logic, Inc' and D-Link DUB-H4, lol well mine anyway.

Because D-Link used the same bargain basement ICs in one of their hubs. Even D-Link don't make such poor products. There is no relation.

More or less I was just trying to point out, something I found. Pointless, but still non the less. This is what mine came up as.

If you check my first post, you'll see I added more to it.

[ardy521]

Well, I purchased two of these POS (Pieces of S&*%). Too go to be true. They both show up as USB 1.0 on several different computers. So I opened them up and low and behold, Missing caps and unsoldered mounting tabs. Has anyone else come across the problem of your computer telling you to plug them into a USB 2.0 port ( when they actually are in USb 2.0 ) for better throughput?

[Monkeh]

Well, I purchased two of these POS (Pieces of S&*%). Too go to be true. They both show up as USB 1.0 on several different computers. So I opened them up and low and behold, Missing caps and unsoldered mounting tabs. Has anyone else come across the problem of your computer telling you to plug them into a USB 2.0 port ( when they actually are in USb 2.0 ) for better throughput?

They are badly assembled, non-compliant crap. Why bother caring?

Throw them in the bin and buy something which works.

[ardy521]

I agree with you 100%. Just curious if the others had the same problem as I did with it not having higher throughput.

[tooki]

Mictas, why on earth would you copy replies into the original post? All it does is confuse.

[mictas]

Mictas, why on earth would you copy replies into the original post? All it does is confuse.

Easy one, toss everything into one post that matters.

Hence why I used a horizontal line, besides I am not done with this topic yet.

[mictas]

Okay, so I felt like giving this a test and I have to say, it was rather depressing.

Pictures times, and the Application used is called Speedout https://sites.google.com/site/mbentefor/projecs-speedout

Please note I used the same SanDisk 16 GB USB 3.0 Flash drive for all tests and in the same USB port on my laptop.

This was the test of the flash drive, plugged into the USB port on my laptop:



Now this test is through the first USB port on the USB HUB:



This is on USB Port seven on the USB Hub:



---

Now the following two are after I replaced the USB cable, something much better. WAY better.

USB Hub Port one:



USB Port Seven:




To start with I knew this was a peace of junk, but I will say this... I had no clue it was this bad, so warning. These are being sold in Australia.

While trying to replace the USB cable, I lifted both the Data + and Data - solder point. While I did manage to save it....

Yea, after this it is going in the bin.

So that is me done, with for the luck of me only wasting, just shy of $4 .

Plus, I have seen these being sold in Australia. Ah the Fun.