What kind of prototype board is this?

[Legion]

I can't remember what this type of board is called. I think you need some kind of special tool to remove the connections between holes, kinda like a punch. Anyone know the name of this type of board and what that tool is?

[miguelvp]

perfboard

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard

Edit: with ground plane that is

[miguelvp]

Sparkfun calls it a protoboard but on the description they mention it's a perf board as well:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8815

NOt like any perfboard I used, then again I usually use stripboards for prototypes.

[Richard Crowley]

I can't remember what this type of board is called.

"Perfboard"

There are similar boards called: "Vector-board" (with no pads)  or "Vero-board" (with rows of pads connected together.)

I think you need some kind of special tool to remove the connections between holes,

WHAT "connections between holes"?  I don't see any connections between holes.
I see an ordinary "pad-per-hole" board with ground-plane on one side, and square pads on the reverse.

Vero-board requires a special cutter to isolate individual holes/pads. But that is not necessary for your board.

[jancumps]

There was a screwdriver-like tool to break the copper traces for veriboards.
You'd put the tool in a hole and turn it clockwise. That would rip a piece of the trace.

[nanofrog]

There was a screwdriver-like tool to break the copper traces for veriboards.
You'd put the tool in a hole and turn it clockwise. That would rip a piece of the trace.

Spot Face Cutter is the name I recall, and what Vero seems to call it as well (they sell a drill bit molded into a plastic handle for ~10GBP ).

Farnell sells one from Duratool (they call it a track cutter). Business end looks more like a proper bayonet spot face cutter, has a nicer handle IMHO, and is less expensive.

[jancumps]

It's that Duratool model that I was refering to.

[rob77]

i'm using vero-boards a lot - but not using any special tool for cutting the traces. proxxon micromot (similar to dremel) with 0.8mm diamond tip does the job quite well, and i can cut at any place - not only around the hole. i can even cut between 2 adjacent holes and have enough copper left to solder leads to both holes.

[SeanB]

I use a combination of a 5mm drill bit used hand held and a sharp blade, depending if i want to cut in a hole or between them.

[rob77]

I use a combination of a 5mm drill bit used hand held and a sharp blade, depending if i want to cut in a hole or between them.

tried the drill bit - a sharp  5.5mm one - used by bare hand. actually it's faster than anything else  if a cut at the hole is needed 

[Legion]

Veroboard and spot face tool. Thanks! I thought that's what this is since I don't see how you could solder anything onto here without it connecting to everything else. But maybe my soldering skills aren't precise enough.

[Richard Crowley]

Veroboard and spot face tool. Thanks! I thought that's what this is

NO, That is NOT Veroboard!  The board in that photo shows single pad-per-hole perfboard.  No tool is necessary to separate the pads, because the pads are already separate!

since I don't see how you could solder anything onto here without it connecting to everything else. But maybe my soldering skills aren't precise enough.

Start practicing your soldering skills, then.  Be sure to have a nice, hot, thin tip, and fine rosin-core solder.  DO NOT attempt to use "lead-free" solder as that is challenging even for people with decades of experience.

[Legion]

NO, That is NOT Veroboard!  The board in that photo shows single pad-per-hole perfboard.  No tool is necessary to separate the pads, because the pads are already separate!
Start practicing your soldering skills, then.  Be sure to have a nice, hot, thin tip, and fine rosin-core solder.  DO NOT attempt to use "lead-free" solder as that is challenging even for people with decades of experience.

I didn't phrase that well. What I meant was veroboard and spot face tool were the items I had in mind. Not to say that this particular board is veroboard.

As for the soldering, I don't enjoy messing around with tiny, finicky things, so I'll just toss these. I like my electronics more "Duplo" and less "Lego". If it has to be small I'd rather just have it manufactured.