What Zener/Fuse do I need (Arduino Project)

[mictas]

So for me, I am trying to build a Breadboard Arduino Project, right now however I am stuck on three components, I require for the USB to serial bridge found on the Uno and Mega or a standalone device the freetronices USBserial.

I'll link the PDF schematic:
Arduino Uno: https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino_Uno_Rev3-schematic.pdf
Freetronics USB to Serial: https://github.com/freetronics/USBSerial

Okay, so what I am focusing on is between the USB port and the ATmega16U2, the list of components are Z1, Z2, R4, R5 and F1, which on the parts list are:
Z1       PGB1010603           
Z2       PGB1010603
R4       22R
R5       22R
F1       500mA PTC 1812
And an L1       0805 INDUCTOR

So what I am looking for is through-hole versions of Z1/2 (as I understand the Z1 and 2 are just zener diodes, the question is, which one?), and the Fuse. The resistors are pretty easy for me and the inductor, I have no clue on that one.

So if someone could tell me, what through-hole components would a appropriate, I would be grateful.

Please understand, yes I have looked up the datasheets and they only confused me.

[sleemanj]

Is there some particular reason you are doing this the hard way?

A USB-UART like the CP2102 modules are available cheaply, just connect TX on the module to RX on your AVR, and vice-versa (and ground of course :-)).  Job done (effectively you're creating an Arduino Pro-Mini on your breadboard in such a case if you want to follow a schematic).

In any case, the components Z1/2 are not zeners, they are transient suppressors (ESD suppression), think of them like two zeners back to back.  I doubt you really need them (or L1) at all for your purposes.

[mictas]

Is there some particular reason you are doing this the hard way?

A USB-UART like the CP2102 modules are available cheaply, just connect TX on the module to RX on your AVR, and vice-versa (and ground of course :-)).  Job done (effectively you're creating an Arduino Pro-Mini on your breadboard in such a case if you want to follow a schematic).

In any case, the components Z1/2 are not zeners, they are transient suppressors (ESD suppression), think of them like two zeners back to back.  I doubt you really need them (or L1) at all for your purposes.

The grand master plan is to have two 840 breadboards side by side, with a ATmega16U2 and ATmega328p. So something more like an ultimate breadboard Arduino.

I took a guess after looking at a USBASP.

[retrolefty]

I really think you are making your project more work then it needs to. For your desire to have a dual breadboard arduino platform just buy two inexpensive arduino nano clones and be done with that part of the project. They can plug directly plug into a solderless breadboard and you have the choice of programming them via USB or via ICSP with a suitable programmer. This lets you move on a lot quicker to actually building real applications/projects. You can't build cheaper and quicker then the nano modules and won't learn all the much trying to. Best to move on to writing code and wiring up your specific projects where you will learn lots.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Nano-V3-0-ATmega328P-for-Arduino-Microcontroller-for-RC-or-Robot-/221658808204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339be4ff8c

[mictas]

I really think you are making your project more work then it needs to. For your desire to have a dual breadboard arduino platform just buy two inexpensive arduino nano clones and be done with that part of the project. They can plug directly plug into a solderless breadboard and you have the choice of programming them via USB or via ICSP with a suitable programmer. This lets you move on a lot quicker to actually building real applications/projects. You can't build cheaper and quicker then the nano modules and won't learn all the much trying to. Best to move on to writing code and wiring up your specific projects where you will learn lots.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Nano-V3-0-ATmega328P-for-Arduino-Microcontroller-for-RC-or-Robot-/221658808204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339be4ff8c

I have three or four of those I ordered from china and they where about $5 each, right now along with the mins and the Arduino Protosnap, have been played with and kept in a box.

This is one of those, I'd like to give it a try projects.

[MarkM]

Wouldn't you still need to burn the bootloader first to upload sketches over serial anyways?  I would use a programmer and link the two µC's via serial instead if that's what you're trying to do.  I might be missing something.

[mictas]

Wouldn't you still need to burn the bootloader first to upload sketches over serial anyways?  I would use a programmer and link the two µC's via serial instead if that's what you're trying to do.  I might be missing something.

Well, your missing the fact that I asked about the components between the USB port and the ATmega16U2.

What you are missing is that I have soldered the SMD ATmega16U2 IC, onto a breakout board and with my ARVISP Mk2 I got from Element 14 were able to read the device signature.

Now because I feel it would be best to use the same firmware as the Freetronics USB to Serial (which is the same as the Arduino Uno/Mega) has a DFU jumper that allows for self/reprogramming/updating from USB. If all else fails, http://forum.freetronics.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5519#p10888 that or I just use my AVRMK2, so mem.

So right now, what I need to know is, what through-hole fuse I could use and a through-hole option for the z1 and z2. Even if I do it without the Z1 and 2, I really would prefer adding a fuse to the breadboard project.

[Hideki]

So right now, what I need to know is, what through-hole fuse I could use and a through-hole option for the z1 and z2. Even if I do it without the Z1 and 2, I really would prefer adding a fuse to the breadboard project.

For the fuse, any of these http://au.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Thermistors/Resettable-Fuses-PPTC/_/N-axfytZscv7?P=1z0x8ffZ1z0z63x&Ns=Pricing|0

Z1 and Z2 are NOT zener diodes, they are PulseGuard ESD Suppressors from Littelfuse. While many alternatives exist, it may be hard to find any in a through-hole packaging with low enough capacitance. TVS diodes like P4KE6.8C don't even have a specified capacitance. Why is capacitance important? Because too much of it will slow down the usb data signal edges.

Just take the next step and slowly move away from through-hole parts

[edavid]

For a breadboard, you don't need any of those parts.  Why drive yourself nuts to protect a $1 IC 

[retrolefty]

For a breadboard, you don't need any of those parts.  Why drive yourself nuts to protect a $1 IC 

 I agree. no matter what you try and include you will still find a way to fry something sometime.

 However for those that really are into bullet proof protection design examples you might want to check out the stuff on ruggedcircuits. They have been selling a 'ruggized arduino' for many years. Cost more but for those that think they need it or want it, check it out.

http://www.ruggedcircuits.com/ruggeduino/

http://static1.squarespace.com/static/529a48e1e4b09eb80191621d/t/529b7dd3e4b0c971f8fa4dcb/1385922003469/am010.pdf

 Personnally I'll just continue using Arduino cloned $4 pro micros or $8 nano they are almost expendable at those prices.

[LukeW]

Realistically, today, you just can't find through-hole versions of every modern component, so you need to learn, to some extent, to ditch the "no SMD at all" ideology.

[mictas]

Realistically, today, you just can't find through-hole versions of every modern component, so you need to learn, to some extent, to ditch the "no SMD at all" ideology.

That or jerry-rig SMD components with two header pins.