Which PIC Kit to buy from Ebay?

[KenobiShan]

Hi!
I discovered this from from youtube. And Im really interested in programming some cool stuff with PIC. I have nothing yet except my programming skills.

So basically, Im confused about  what exactly I need to buy. I really hope I can make new friends here and sort myself out of this confusion 


Questions :

1) According to the forum, the clones PIC Kits are reliable. However, not sure if they work on W10(?). Also there are many kits in ebay, and Im kinda sure some of them have a lower quality than others so, which one should I get?
Can I get this One? https://www.ebay.com/itm/PICKIT3-Programmer-Universal-PIC-ICD2-PICKit-2-PICKIT-3-Programming-Adapter-Seat/311728580626?hash=item489478a812:g:FMEAAOSwo4pYER6m


2) The Programming adapter seat is used to put the PIC chip on and "burn"/write in it, right?


3) Can I get any generic protoboard at my own country or should I also get one from China?


OBS : PicKids from ebay are cheaper than the ones in Brazil 

Im really sorry if I broke any forum rules, but these are the questions I really have and Im worried that the answers in the references below might be outdated. Also, Im insecure about which pickit 3 to get from ebay. I want something that I can rely on and not break in the first month... 




Thanks guys!!

References:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/are-clone-pickit-3's-as-good-as-the-genuine-microchip-versions/msg1031417/#msg1031417

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/ebay-pickit-3/msg922693/#msg922693

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/cheap-usb-pic-programmers/msg371002/#msg371002

[KL27x]

I have several of 3 different clones and a genuine. The best one (for my OS and devices, anyway) is the clone from TommyDV on eBay. I might be off on the name a bit, but it's Tommy-something. This works better than my genuine, str8 from Microchip factory, in P-2-go mode.

I have experience some quirks with the genuine and the other clones, but only in program-to-go mode. They are all fine for dev work, with the exception of the Sure Electronics variant (black case), which I never got to do anything but throw voltage errors.

I have heard about the Windows 10 USB driver issue, and I'm pretty sure it can happen with genuine PICKit3, as well as the clones.  No direct experience with Win 10, myself.

This sounds archaic, but the PK2 is nice to have, in addition to a PK3. Esp when you are breadboarding and whatnot. For devices with compatability, the PK2 software is clean and simple and fast for flashing and verifying a chip.

[KenobiShan]

I think breadboarding is really important when learning... PK3 is not capable of that?

So should I get a pickit 3 and a pickit 2?

Or Just the PicKit 2?

I really wanna play alot with the breadboarding before actually producing something useful.

[stj]

if you get a pk2 or 3, pay the extra to get the i.c. socket adapter - it's very handy.

[picandmix]

Go for a genuine Pickt3 or that ebay pk3 clone you linked to,  as that can program virtually all the current Pic chips, the Pk2  cannot do all the modern chips.

I have genuine and diy  Pk2s and a clone Pk3 which all work ok with W8.1 , though have not tried either with W10 which I only recently moved onto.

If there was a problem with W10 you should get help in the Microchip forum, think a lot of the problems is when folk upgrade their existing w7/8 and Mplab/Pk programs to W10 .

If you are installing Mplab/Pk fresh into W10 hopefully no problems.

The reason some are cautious about breadboards is that their contacts can get damaged by pushing in too large a part plus dust and dirt does not help.

When you program a pic, it is sending lots of data at high speeds, so if the contact are not perfect you can get errors.
Also if you wires from the Pickit to the breadboard are much longer than 150mm you can have similar problems, the shorter the better.

Otherwise for general learning breadboards are fine.

[Microcheap]

Get the PicKit 3, Pickit 2 is obsolete and don't have support for the newer chips. You don't need to get both. The Pickit 3 works just fine with MPlab X and Win 10, there is no hassle.

[KenobiShan]

Alright, I decided to get these:

• 20Pcs New 20.000MHZ 20MHZ 20M HZ HC-49S Crystal Oscillator AL
  
  20pcs 8X8mm Cap Self-locking Type Square Blue Button Switch Control
  
  
  20PCS Photoresistor LDR CDS 5mm Light-Dependent Resistor Sensor GL5516 Arduino
  
  MAX7219 8-Digit LED Display 7 Segment Digital Tube For Arduino Raspberry Pi
  
  PICkit3 PIC KIT3 PICkit2 PIC KIT2 Debugger Programmer Emulator PIC Controller - Pic Kit 3 itself
  
  
  PICkit3 PIC KIT3 PICkit2 PIC KIT2 Debugger Programmer Emulator PIC Controller - The adapter seat or whatever it's called
  
  
  New MB-102 Solderless Breadboard Protoboard 830 Tie Points 2 buses Test Circuit
  
  
  LM35DZ TO-92 LM35 Precision Centigrade Temperature Sensor IC Low Impedance DIY
  
  
  PIC16F877A-I/P DIP-40 PIC16F DIP40 MC 40-pin Enhanced Flash Microchontroller
  
  
  1PCS IC PIC16F628A-I/P DIP-18 Microchip NEW GOOD QUALITY

Any thoughts?

[Microcheap]

I would get a PIC16F88 instead of the 628A as the 88 has a bigger flash memory and AD converter, that is very useful for many projects.

[picandmix]

First off, what are you going to program in Assembler or C.

From the chips you specify it sounds like you are going to follow a lot of early code examples, but the more modern chips will also run such examples with only minor modification.

As MicroCheap says, use the 16F88 as it also has an onboard oscillator, and look at 16F887 the modern version of the old 16F877a.

Assume those crystals are for particular projects you have seen ?   though the internal oscillators will work for most jobs though not for a program that must use a 20mhz clock.

The switches you have are self locking, ie click for on, click again for off,  normally you want the push to make, break on release  type... ?

7 segments are a popular display, but you can get a lot more info on a 2x16 lcd.

Suggest you look at a breadboard kit like this which as a load of handy components for a low price as you will need some resistors etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Switch-Breadboard-LED-Electrolytic-capacitor-Resistor-Electronic-component-kits/401056869963?epid=1088946553&hash=item5d60da2e4b:g:FWAAAOSwGotWnDLv

[stj]

character-lcd's are obsolete.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401395129024

[NivagSwerdna]

try a Curiosity board (which has PicKit) On Board... get the PIC24 and PIC32 series boards.

http://www.microchip.com/promo/curiosity-development-boards

The modern PICs have really cool features.... I particularly like DMA

[Zero999]

character-lcd's are obsolete.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401395129024

What makes you think that? A non-backlit LCD will consume a tiny fraction of the power, compared to that OLED display.

[stj]

maybe, but it's unlikely to be powered by a small battery.
and the oled can display 8 lines of 20+ characters with the smallest font.

one other thing, a lot of character displays on ebay are unreliable - found that the hard way.
and the trend is for reverse-polarisers that pretty much mandate using the backlight.

[meerweten]

Alright, I decided to get these:

• 20Pcs New 20.000MHZ 20MHZ 20M HZ HC-49S Crystal Oscillator AL
• 20pcs 8X8mm Cap Self-locking Type Square Blue Button Switch Control
• 20PCS Photoresistor LDR CDS 5mm Light-Dependent Resistor Sensor GL5516 Arduino
• MAX7219 8-Digit LED Display 7 Segment Digital Tube For Arduino Raspberry Pi
• PICkit3 PIC KIT3 PICkit2 PIC KIT2 Debugger Programmer Emulator PIC Controller - Pic Kit 3 itself
• PICkit3 PIC KIT3 PICkit2 PIC KIT2 Debugger Programmer Emulator PIC Controller - The adapter seat or whatever it's called
• New MB-102 Solderless Breadboard Protoboard 830 Tie Points 2 buses Test Circuit
• LM35DZ TO-92 LM35 Precision Centigrade Temperature Sensor IC Low Impedance DIY
• PIC16F877A-I/P DIP-40 PIC16F DIP40 MC 40-pin Enhanced Flash Microchontroller
• 1PCS IC PIC16F628A-I/P DIP-18 Microchip NEW GOOD QUALITY

Any thoughts?

the 628 is a quite old chip, tought is has been and is much used.
you'd better be of going for one of the newer chips.
when you don't buy they from ebay they are cheaper (not sure about the ebay prices of the newer chips)
i like to use the newest line of microchip:

• the PIC18f26K40 (or K42) which is a 28 pin chip^(jup more IO than the 628, and possebly cheaper
• the PIC18f46k40 (or K42) which is the 40/44 pin cariant of the 26

i've worked with icd2/icd3 pk2 and pk3.
both the pk2 and icd2 are no longer supporting the newer chips. the ICD2 even doesn't work anymore on newer systems.
the icd3 and pk3 arethe way to go, tought i prefere the icd3 (@ work) i do have several pk3's on my desk, just easier.
i have a pk3 clone from ebay and it works perfectly on W7, W8, W8.1 and W10.

O and the chips i listed have internal oscillators up to 64MHz, so that saves you 2 io pins
the oscilators are changeable from 500khz to 64MHz so plenty of project that you build with it

and don't forget to get some jumper wire https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-F-F-F-M-M-M-Jump-Wire-1-2-3-4-5-6-Pin-Dupont-Cable-5-10-20-30-50-70-100cm/322808583717?hash=item4b28e41625:m:mAbx_j2s3rTQl6pku2CArVQ

[cncjerry]

I've been programming micros since '78. Almost 40yrs of experience, Jesus.  Start with Arduino.  If you want to do PIC, then get the high-end chips for free from samples.   I use the DSPics for a lot now. Use only the supported programmers like the Pickit 3. 

Start programming in C on the PIC and go to assembler when needed. The chips have so much memory these days programming in assembler is a waste of time.  Assembler is fun though, and for simple controls sometimes its faster than C in terms of programming once you have basic routines coded.  If you do go to assembler, find a good initialization routine and it would be chip-specific.  Most problems are initialization related.

Get Mike Predko's book.

Jerry

[stj]

people should learn assembly first, even if they arent going to use it.

it's esential to understand the actual code the chip will run if you need to debug something or reverse engineer other code.
you do NOT want to put several layers of abstraction between you and the cpu core!