Xbox Elite Controller Silver Solder

[Yapsonark]

I had purchased this controller for around $200 and would rather replace
the damaged module myself instead of replacing the controller.

I did a lot of research on the proper tools and method used.

I easily desoldered a regular Xbox controller tumbstick module but the elite controller uses silver and I could only melt around 8 of the 14 posts.

I used flux,  tried increased heat but it won't melt. I'm afraid to go any hotter but might not have a choice

I'm using a hakko and reached temp at about 700-800. (I think, it's been awhile since my last attempt)

When I couldn't melt it I resoldered and put it back together, controller works fine cept for the faulty module.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. This $200 controller is unusable until I can figure this out

Thanks!!

[eKretz]

You probably need more heat. Silver solder with any real silver content has a considerably higher melting point than even lead-free solder. You'd need to know the alloy content of the solder used to be sure of what you're dealing with.

[wraper]

Silver solder with any real silver content has a considerably higher melting point than even lead-free solder.

Do you know that most lead-free solders contain silver? Most lead free solders containing silver melt at 217^oC which is lower than SnCu, SuCuNi which melt at around 227^oC. This has nothing to do with silver in the solder. PCB has high thermal mass which sinks heat away from solder joints. Most likely either tip is too small, need chisel type as conical tip is useless. Or solder iron is too weak. Preheating the board with hot air will help. If proper preheater is not available, hairdryer at max temperature setting can be used instead.

[wraper]

I easily desoldered a regular Xbox controller tumbstick module but the elite controller uses silver and I could only melt around 8 of the 14 posts.

They use either the same solder type or with similar melting temperatures. This has nothing to do with solder used.

[RGB255_0_0]

If it's like http://m.imgur.com/a/mNSyy then the easiest way would be with a solder vacuum gun.

Otherwise there will be different ways depending on what you have to hand. If you don't have much equipment then order some Chip Quik and add a little too each joint. Eventually you'll be able to wiggle it out without too hot temperatures.

[Yapsonark]

Thanks everyone!! I'm gonna try all of this!! Wish me luck!   

[eKretz]

Silver solder with any real silver content has a considerably higher melting point than even lead-free solder.

Do you know that most lead-free solders contain silver? Most lead free solders containing silver melt at 217^oC which is lower than SnCu, SuCuNi which melt at around 227^oC. This has nothing to do with silver in the solder. PCB has high thermal mass which sinks heat away from solder joints. Most likely either tip is too small, need chisel type as conical tip is useless. Or solder iron is too weak. Preheating the board with hot air will help. If proper preheater is not available, hairdryer at max temperature setting can be used instead.

That's nice, but my point still stands, and you can facepalm yourself all you want. There are many varieties of silver solder available, and some have very high melting points indeed. As I said previously - "You'd need to know the alloy content of the solder used to be sure of what you're dealing with."

[wraper]

That's nice, but my point still stands, and you can facepalm yourself all you want. There are many varieties of silver solder available, and some have very high melting points indeed. As I said previously - "You'd need to know the alloy content of the solder used to be sure of what you're dealing with."

What point stands? My point that you don't know anything about solders and their melting temperatures. And this issue has nothing to do with silver content in solder.  FYI addition of silver to lead-free tin based solder lowers it's melting point a little bit. 99% of lead-free solders used in electronics melt at 217-227^oC temperature. Of course there are also low melting point solders based on bismuth and indium. But those are mechanically unreliable/fragile and expensive. Therefore generally not used in electronics unless there is very good reason for that.

As I said previously - "You'd need to know the alloy content of the solder used to be sure of what you're dealing with."

As I said, you don't know anything about solders. Just for a reason you don't know about solder types used in electronics. High melting point solders containing mostly silver are not used in electronics.

[stj]

more likely it's almost pure tin to save money - seen that on laptops a few times.

i would melt something like 63/37 into it to lower it's melting point.

[wraper]

more likely it's almost pure tin to save money - seen that on laptops a few times.

i would melt something like 63/37 into it to lower it's melting point.

On photo (link by RGB255_0_0), it looks like SAC305 or similar. SnCu, SnCuNi solders are more shiny while solders containing silver are dull. The main difference between these boards is that usual controller has cheap 2 layer phenolic PCB with carbon compound filled vias. Elite controller has at least 4 layer PCB with heavy ground plane which sinks the heat away while soldering.