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EEVblog #755 - Fluke PM2812 PSU Ebay Score

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EEVblog:
Dave checks out a Fluke/Philips PM2812 System DC Power supply he scored from ebay for 30 bucks.
Does it work?
Will the bunker hardware tin collection come through?
Service manual: http://www.eevblog.com/files/philips_pm2811_pm2812_pm2813_sm.pdf

Yansi:
The 110/220 jumperlink only selects between full bridge rectifier and voltage doubler configuration.  The PSU works on 330DC on both voltage systems. Absolutely common input circuit, also well known from a dual system PC switchmode supplies? So why the need to change anything else on the board or even to use a stepdown transformer to those yankee 110V? :-)

The board is NOT designed for 110V only. The board can handle BOTH voltage systems. Only the jumperlink needs to be changed as you did.  The 220V position is really to be open. See below:



//by the way: someone can't draw the electrolytic caps right. The filled rectangle is always minus pole. I took the first image google returned :-)

and lol I just see, there's an error, I'll correct it for you :-)

EEVblog:

--- Quote from: Yansi on June 19, 2015, 06:36:03 am ---The 110/220 jumperlink only selects between full bridge rectifier and voltage doubler configuration.  The PSU works on 330DC on both voltage systems. Absolutely common input circuit, also well known from a dual system PC switchmode supplies? So why the need to change anything else on the board or even to use a stepdown transformer to those yankee 110V? :-)

--- End quote ---

In this case you have to change both the input wiring and that jumper.
It's actually in the manual wiring diagram if you look close enough  :palm:

quarros:
Wouldn't EM interference/radiation be a problem with a wooden case? This is a powersuply afterall.  ???

Edit: Never mind.

Yansi:
Dave, I don't know what are you talking about. The voltage selection does only the jumperlink.

I have the SM opened right now and I can see that the board was possibly redesigned too. I don't see there any other spade lug there in the video. Nor is the jumperlink drawn in the SM.   

There is no way to need to change 2 wires at once. The 110/220V change is usually done via a SPST switch. If there is need to change two wires, I'd like to see the schematic how was that done :-o

In this version of board  you disconnect the wire from the bridge and connect it between the two caps.


In your version of board, the jumperlink is the selection shorting half of the bridge to make it a doubler.



What else do you need to change, than that jumperlink you have already changed? Am I missing something?

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