Author Topic: FS: [BRAND NEW] JBC CD-2BD soldering station + cartridges [ONLY ONE LEFT]  (Read 13187 times)

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Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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This is the latest revision (June 2014) from JBC.
It retails for 350EUR + VAT with only 2xC245 soldering tips.
I'll do 399EUR including 4xC245 cartridges and shipping everywhere in Europe with DHL or UPS.

http://www.jbctools.com/cd-2bd-soldering-station-for-general-purposes-product-871-category-1-menu-1.html

Check my other thread if you are also interested in desoldering stations.

« Last Edit: December 06, 2014, 04:51:45 pm by mikgntl-2013 »
 

Offline SteveyG

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Offline robrenz

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Bold but true!   :-+ >:D :box: ;D

Offline Dago

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Come and check my projects at http://www.dgkelectronics.com ! I also tweet as https://twitter.com/DGKelectronics
 

Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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No one interested? Come on. This is one of the best stations on the market.
The retail box comes with only 2 soldering tips.
I will include 2 additional tips of your choice.
 

Offline CrashO

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Not to sure about prices in other countries, but here in NL I can get a brand new CD-2BD for 297,50 (360,- euro incl 21% VAT) at the official distributor (Printtec). Tips are 29 euro (35 incl VAT) a piece.
Comes to 360 + 35+ 35= 430 euro including free delivery for the same set you are offering at 397,- excl delivery.  :o
 

Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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This is BRAND NEW!
« Last Edit: December 02, 2014, 12:51:26 pm by mikgntl-2013 »
 

Offline SharpEars

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Bold but true!   :-+ >:D :box: ;D

I mean it says so right on the manual, so it must be true!
« Last Edit: November 12, 2014, 03:25:51 am by SharpEars »
 

Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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Haha. I red that claim and suddenly fell in love with JBC.
Of course it's because of that claim that we buy and use these tools.
 

Offline neslekkim

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I bought an hakko 888D first, found it kinda ok, then bought an fx951 which turned to be an clone, throwed that away, and since bought not only one, but two JBC stations, fantastic stuff, my hakko 888d just collects dust now, wasted money.
And, I'm using this for hobby related stuff, not working with this though...
 

Offline SharpEars

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I bought an hakko 888D first, found it kinda ok, then bought an fx951 which turned to be an clone, throwed that away, and since bought not only one, but two JBC stations, fantastic stuff, my hakko 888d just collects dust now, wasted money.
And, I'm using this for hobby related stuff, not working with this though...

So what does this do (for three times the price of the Hakko) that the Hakko 888 doesn't?

Update: And then I saw: Output Peak Power   130W , well, there's that  :box:
« Last Edit: November 12, 2014, 02:39:52 pm by SharpEars »
 

Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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So what does this do (for three times the price of the Hakko) that the Hakko 888 doesn't?
Update: And then I saw: Output Peak Power   130W , well, there's that  :box:

Some fools like to spend their money that way. Please ignore them.
You can't reasonably expect everyone to be as smart and brainy as you!
 

Offline neslekkim

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Yeah, fools like me :)

It's extremely fast to heat, it keeps the heat very well, so it's easy to solder to heatsinks or big earthplanes.
You can get soldertips that is very wide, spatula, if you want to easily clean up BGA pads.
Change of tips is very easy without waiting for the solderstation too cool of, TRY THAT with your 888..

And they look very cool.. :), And Dave gave it thumbs up on the teardown.. and it's powered by an dsPic33..  ;)
 

Offline SteveyG

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I bought an hakko 888D first, found it kinda ok, then bought an fx951 which turned to be an clone, throwed that away, and since bought not only one, but two JBC stations, fantastic stuff, my hakko 888d just collects dust now, wasted money.
And, I'm using this for hobby related stuff, not working with this though...

You need to get yourself a Metcal MX-5000 series. You'll be even more blown away. We have the CD-B's at work, but they are inferior.

Anyone questioning what these do that the cheaper ones don't - you need to try these professional stations for yourself. They solder anything and everything, huge thermal capacities, fast recovery times, instant heat etc.
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics/
Use code: “SDG5” to get 5% off JBC Equipment at Kaisertech
 

Offline neslekkim

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You need to get yourself a Metcal MX-5000 series. You'll be even more blown away. We have the CD-B's at work, but they are inferior.

Anyone questioning what these do that the cheaper ones don't - you need to try these professional stations for yourself. They solder anything and everything, huge thermal capacities, fast recovery times, instant heat etc.

Yeah, but as I understand it, you also need to chang tip to adjust temperature.. but one day, I guess I need to find myself one of those.
 

Offline SteveyG

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You need to get yourself a Metcal MX-5000 series. You'll be even more blown away. We have the CD-B's at work, but they are inferior.

Anyone questioning what these do that the cheaper ones don't - you need to try these professional stations for yourself. They solder anything and everything, huge thermal capacities, fast recovery times, instant heat etc.

Yeah, but as I understand it, you also need to chang tip to adjust temperature.. but one day, I guess I need to find myself one of those.

True, but you should never really have to adjust temperature. 325C is the optimal temperature for soldering.
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Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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True, but you should never really have to adjust temperature. 325C is the optimal temperature for soldering.

Are you sure?
Why should I use a higher temperature than required when dealing for example with small components and maybe with leaded solder?
I think that variable is always better than fixed. Really don't know why... It's just an innate conviction.
 

Offline SteveyG

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True, but you should never really have to adjust temperature. 325C is the optimal temperature for soldering.

Are you sure?
Why should I use a higher temperature than required when dealing for example with small components and maybe with leaded solder?
I think that variable is always better than fixed. Really don't know why... It's just an innate conviction.

It's what I was taught on the IPC course. There's no downside to using 325C on leaded solder, and small components shouldn't be an issue as soldering times are very short if you are doing it correctly. The only issue you may have is with certain components such as polystyrene capacitors, but the datasheet on these normally says reflow only.
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics/
Use code: “SDG5” to get 5% off JBC Equipment at Kaisertech
 

Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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True, but you should never really have to adjust temperature. 325C is the optimal temperature for soldering.

Are you sure?
Why should I use a higher temperature than required when dealing for example with small components and maybe with leaded solder?
I think that variable is always better than fixed. Really don't know why... It's just an innate conviction.

It's what I was taught on the IPC course. There's no downside to using 325C on leaded solder, and small components shouldn't be an issue as soldering times are very short if you are doing it correctly. The only issue you may have is with certain components such as polystyrene capacitors, but the datasheet on these normally says reflow only.

Sometimes you need to use the lowest temperature that does the job.
Latest video from Dave is a nice example of that.
Same temp for everything just doesn't sound reasonable to me...
 

Offline SteveyG

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True, but you should never really have to adjust temperature. 325C is the optimal temperature for soldering.

Are you sure?
Why should I use a higher temperature than required when dealing for example with small components and maybe with leaded solder?
I think that variable is always better than fixed. Really don't know why... It's just an innate conviction.

It's what I was taught on the IPC course. There's no downside to using 325C on leaded solder, and small components shouldn't be an issue as soldering times are very short if you are doing it correctly. The only issue you may have is with certain components such as polystyrene capacitors, but the datasheet on these normally says reflow only.

Sometimes you need to use the lowest temperature that does the job.
Latest video from Dave is a nice example of that.
Same temp for everything just doesn't sound reasonable to me...

I saw the video, but no example of why another temperature would have been unsuitable. The part was being removed and no damage could have been done.
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics/
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Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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I saw the video, but no example of why another temperature would have been unsuitable. The part was being removed and no damage could have been done.

Clearly the ic is not the problem there! The concern is for the pads...
 

Offline SteveyG

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I saw the video, but no example of why another temperature would have been unsuitable. The part was being removed and no damage could have been done.

Clearly the ic is not the problem there! The concern is for the pads...

Still no problem. He could have cleared the component in less time at the right temperature which in the end would have resulted in less stress on the PCB.

That Chipquik stuff is pretty dodgy though and wouldn't be allowed in any kind of professional environment as it modifies the alloy and will permanently contaminate the PCB with unknown long term reliability issues. The correct tool for the job was hot air.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2014, 02:03:35 pm by SteveyG »
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Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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Still no problem. He could have cleared the component in less time at the right temperature which in the end would have resulted in less stress on the PCB.

That Chipquik stuff is pretty dodgy though and wouldn't be allowed in any kind of professional environment as it modifies the alloy and will permanently contaminate the PCB with unknown long term reliability issues. The correct tool for the job was hot air.

Sorry, but it really seems that you are trying to defend your previous statement at any cost...
The right temp is the lowest that does the job, not the magic value available on the Metcal station.
I agree with you that hot air was the best tool for the job, but then you would have had to pick a soldering station anyway to clean the pads.
I also recognize that 325°C is kind of a best trade off for a production environment, but when you are spending hundreds of bucks for a tool you probably want to be sure to get a certain amount of flexibility, which is exactly what variable temp gives you.
In my case, the lack of regulation has always been the real (maybe only) deal breaker for Metcal tools.
 

Offline SteveyG

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Still no problem. He could have cleared the component in less time at the right temperature which in the end would have resulted in less stress on the PCB.

That Chipquik stuff is pretty dodgy though and wouldn't be allowed in any kind of professional environment as it modifies the alloy and will permanently contaminate the PCB with unknown long term reliability issues. The correct tool for the job was hot air.

Sorry, but it really seems that you are trying to defend your previous statement at any cost...
The right temp is the lowest that does the job, not the magic value available on the Metcal station.
I agree with you that hot air was the best tool for the job, but then you would have had to pick a soldering station anyway to clean the pads.
I also recognize that 325°C is kind of a best trade off for a production environment, but when you are spending hundreds of bucks for a tool you probably want to be sure to get a certain amount of flexibility, which is exactly what variable temp gives you.
In my case, the lack of regulation has always been the real (maybe only) deal breaker for Metcal tools.

I'm not talking about the Metcal in particular, especially as you can change the tip anyway. I'm talking from the guidelines from my IPC-A-610 training.

There would not be a need to clean up the pads with a soldering iron. Why would you? You may need to add a small amount of solder paste to the pads otherwise it would be standard procedure just to apply further flux to the pads and place the new part on top.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2014, 06:43:01 pm by SteveyG »
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics/
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Offline mikgntl-2013Topic starter

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There would not be a need to clean up the pads with a soldering iron. Why would you? You may need to add a small amount of solder paste to the pads otherwise it would be standard procedure just to apply further flux to the pads and place the new part on top.

It's hard to generalize... That procedure works most of times, especially with large pitch ICs, but sometimes cleaning the pads it's the only way to avoid a mess.
With fine pitch ICs I've always got better results by cleaning the pads, so now I do the cleaning every time.
Not saying that it is the standard procedure in a production environment, but that's what I found with my experience.
 


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