WTB: Probe Master Test Leads for DMM

[neslekkim]

1 - 2 probe sets, $26 to norway, but I want an masters kit, so I'm asking again.. (you know, with all the bells and whistles..)

And the answer I got.. I found it in the spam folder..

[nanofrog]

Probe Master is not answering my emails.

If it's not in the spam folder, you might want to look into a reshipping company here in the US. You'll pay shipping twice, but it usually proves cheaper than having it shipped directly from what I've seen.

[neslekkim]

The probemaster have again answered my email, so no problems getting response from them

They say that the shipping cost to Norway is $26 for values up to $100, so that's no problem.
I also checked the site now, it now accepts norwegian adresses for estimating of shipping (which give that amount, or $60 something for ups)

[TheAmmoniacal]

I used the email form on their website, maybe a bad idea?

I have now purchased a pair from the eBay seller I listed (http://stores.ebay.com/Industrial-Instruments-Surplus), they charged me $17 on the shipping. Just send them an offer and add the information in the message, they will correct it.

$34 total is still much cheaper than Keysight/Fluke pokey things, and these look much better.

[neslekkim]

I did the same, contact form.

Hm, I paid 270NOK (inkl mva) from Farnell for the 34138A agilent kit, not that expensive for an good kit.
I have bougth some Fluke kits earlier, those was crazy expensive though.

I have been discussing back and forth with probemasters now, and the lady there recomends me first the banana, then the retractable, when I only ask if the shrouded ones are compatible with meters like 34461a, 34401a, 2015, 289, 87..
It kinda feels like they don't know what the probes are made for..

[TheAmmoniacal]

I did the same, contact form.

Hm, I paid 270NOK (inkl mva) from Farnell for the 34138A agilent kit, not that expensive for an good kit.
I have bougth some Fluke kits earlier, those was crazy expensive though.

I have been discussing back and forth with probemasters now, and the lady there recomends me first the banana, then the retractable, when I only ask if the shrouded ones are compatible with meters like 34461a, 34401a, 2015, 289, 87..
It kinda feels like they don't know what the probes are made for..

I've never been able to shop at farnell, whenever I register they ask me to start a business account with them, and it's the only way I am able to pay. They also require a business/organization number.. How do you do it?

[neslekkim]

I did the same, contact form.

Hm, I paid 270NOK (inkl mva) from Farnell for the 34138A agilent kit, not that expensive for an good kit.
I have bougth some Fluke kits earlier, those was crazy expensive though.

I have been discussing back and forth with probemasters now, and the lady there recomends me first the banana, then the retractable, when I only ask if the shrouded ones are compatible with meters like 34461a, 34401a, 2015, 289, 87..
It kinda feels like they don't know what the probes are made for..

I've never been able to shop at farnell, whenever I register they ask me to start a business account with them, and it's the only way I am able to pay. They also require a business/organization number.. How do you do it?

Borrowed a friends brreg number, he have an farm:)
I had registered myself on the site, filed some baskets many times, and left them, because I couldn't order, but then they called me, and said that it was no problem if I could borrow some number, or register the company I'm working for (If my boss would accept that)
So, that was an succes, at least for farnell , I have shopped for NOK 14K after that

[nanofrog]

I have been discussing back and forth with probemasters now, and the lady there recomends me first the banana, then the retractable, when I only ask if the shrouded ones are compatible with meters like 34461a, 34401a, 2015, 289, 87..
It kinda feels like they don't know what the probes are made for..

FWIW, the retractable bananas are more universal IME (can handle depth issues, work on shrouded or non-shrouded banana jacks, and don't suffer clearance issues RT angles might due to rubber or plastic bezels on bench meters). 

That said, I don't see why the RT angle connectors wouldn't work with what you listed for meters if that's your preference.

[zapta]

FWIW, the retractable bananas are more universal IME (can handle depth issues, work on shrouded or non-shrouded banana jacks, and don't suffer clearance issues RT angles might due to rubber or plastic bezels on bench meters). 

If you use them with a DMM that was designed for shrouded jacks, can you positively verify that the springy shroud is fully extended and protects you?

[nanofrog]

If you use them with a DMM that was designed for shrouded jacks, can you positively verify that the springy shroud is fully extended and protects you?

You mean does the retractable shroud portion fully extended to the bottom of the shroud recess in the meter's input jack?
If so, then No. They don't work that way (too much friction to reach max depth). What they do however, is insert the male banana in the connector all the way to the bottom without exposing the metal to the user, regardless if it's a shrouded input jack or not (depth is set by the actual banana's length, rather than that of a safety shroud that's fixed in place).

FWIW, the retractable types have worked on every meter I've had access to (trick = shroud can fully retract into the body, which allows the metal banana to seat all the way down). The shrouds do insert at least to some extent into the shrouded input jacks (you'll feel it, and even hear it at times <involves the spring>  ).

The RT angle connectors I have however (also Probemaster; older version of RT angle connector), don't always insert all the way down. For example, they will bottom out on Agilent, but stick up from the front panel on both Fluke and Brymen IME (~1/8" <3.2mm> and ~3/16" <4.8mm> respectively). It doesn't make them unsafe, but I can certainly understand why it bothers users that have experienced this. The retractable versions eliminate this, making them excellent for bench use IME. But they definitely stick much farther out of the meter's front panel, so they're not suited for wrapping the leads around a handheld meter (i.e. field use).

Hope this helps. 

[tooki]

I don't want the angled ones, I have also sendt an mail to probemasters, but no response so far.

Probably they don't need customers outside US..

It looks like they just completely redid their website (on a different e-commerce platform, no migration of old logins, etc.) at some point in the past month or two. I bet they were dealing with teething problems with the new site!

The footer of the website specifically lists an international phone line, and their shipping terms and conditions outlines international shipping as well. So I don't think they're uninterested in our business.


For what it's worth, I ordered the basic 8000 series probes (but with 5 foot leads) and the mini probe kit and had it sent to a friend in USA whom I am planning to visit soon.

[neslekkim]

Yes, they answered on emails so no problems with that, and only a couple of days ago the website again have the pictures, so now I only have to find out if shrouded or retractable are the ones I need.

I guess the fluke meters have some sensor to find if the probe is inserted or not, and guess I need to check that on the bench meters also, but I don't think they have it. (I think I remember that the handheld meters warns if the probes are connected wrong, thus the sensor)

[nanofrog]

I guess the fluke meters have some sensor to find if the probe is inserted or not...

They use split jacks (i.e. metal tube inside is cut down the middle so each half is electrically isolated from one another). So when a metal banana is inserted, it completes a circuit. Nothing to do with whether or not there are plastic shrouds.

[neslekkim]

I guess the fluke meters have some sensor to find if the probe is inserted or not...

They use split jacks (i.e. metal tube inside is cut down the middle so each half is electrically isolated from one another). So when a metal banana is inserted, it completes a circuit. Nothing to do with whether or not there are plastic shrouds.

So, what is this about then? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/fluke-287-input-alert-diode-type-replacement/
Split jacks would be prefered..

[aargee]

The 83-85... series use the split jacks. I had to repair my 83 for the very reason that one of the jacks had become faulty.
It looks like the 287/9 series do use an optical method (someone else will answer that one)..

[nanofrog]

I guess the fluke meters have some sensor to find if the probe is inserted or not...

They use split jacks (i.e. metal tube inside is cut down the middle so each half is electrically isolated from one another). So when a metal banana is inserted, it completes a circuit. Nothing to do with whether or not there are plastic shrouds.

So, what is this about then? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/fluke-287-input-alert-diode-type-replacement/
Split jacks would be prefered..

Seems it depends on the model.

Optics are certainly another way of doing it, but not as common as split jacks IME. Especially if you include other brands. For example, both my Brymen BM857 and Agilent U1252B use split jacks (my Fluke 27/FM doesn't have input warning at all).

[neslekkim]

Seems it depends on the model.

Optics are certainly another way of doing it, but not as common as split jacks IME. Especially if you include other brands. For example, both my Brymen BM857 and Agilent U1252B use split jacks (my Fluke 27/FM doesn't have input warning at all).

Well, I said this earlier:

I have been discussing back and forth with probemasters now, and the lady there recomends me first the banana, then the retractable, when I only ask if the shrouded ones are compatible with meters like 34461a, 34401a, 2015, 289, 87..
It kinda feels like they don't know what the probes are made for..

Part marked in bold is the meters I have.. I wanted straight connectors, not angled, and think I want shrouded, but getting replys from them with retractable, angled, and normal banana connectors..
No answers if the connectors are compatible with any of the meters, obviously they are compatible, but they cannot answer it seems.

[nanofrog]

Part marked in bold is the meters I have.. I wanted straight connectors

I understood that, and did my best to confirm the connector ends you want to use will work. 

What I'm not getting, is how you're trying to tie this to the input sensing method used by any particular Fluke, particularly without any model numbers? 
Retractable ends will allow the metal banana to bottom out in the input jack (would think this will solve the optical sensor method), and sufficient contact will close the circuit on split jacks.

No answers if the connectors are compatible with any of the meters, obviously they are compatible, but they cannot answer it seems.

I can see that being a bit disappointing at the very least, but not entirely unexpected (simply didn't know & genuinely forgot to get the right answer and see you got it due to workload, ... sorts of issues alone could explain matters  ). 

But at least there's EEVBlog as a potential/alternate source of info. 

[neslekkim]

Part marked in bold is the meters I have.. I wanted straight connectors

I understood that, and did my best to confirm the connector ends you want to use will work. 

What I'm not getting, is how you're trying to tie this to the input sensing method used by any particular Fluke, particularly without any model numbers? 

Not sure what you mean here Fluke 289, Fluke 87, that is two model numbers, Keithley 2015 is one modelnumber, HP 34401a, Agilent 34461a etc, I only wanted an set that I can use on all the meters without problems, I can use the Agilent probes on all for instance.
So I only wanted them to confirm that the shrouded ones are same type as would fit on these meters, I guess they are, and it should be easy to answer, instead of saying I should buy banana or retractable instead.

Retractable ends will allow the metal banana to bottom out in the input jack (would think this will solve the optical sensor method), and sufficient contact will close the circuit on split jacks.

I wonder what the sensor looks at.. I need to check with normal banana-leads to see if i get complaints about using them, forgot to test that in the weekend.

No answers if the connectors are compatible with any of the meters, obviously they are compatible, but they cannot answer it seems.

I can see that being a bit disappointing at the very least, but not entirely unexpected (simply didn't know & genuinely forgot to get the right answer and see you got it due to workload, ... sorts of issues alone could explain matters  ). 

But at least there's EEVBlog as a potential/alternate source of info. 

Yes, I hope anyone here have these to verify, in meantime i bought the normal probeset from Keysight istead.

Tooo much fuss about a pair of leads

[nanofrog]

Not sure what you mean here Fluke 289, Fluke 87, that is two model numbers, Keithley 2015 is one modelnumber, HP 34401a, Agilent 34461a etc, I only wanted an set that I can use on all the meters without problems, I can use the Agilent probes on all for instance.

FWIW, the straight shrouded types will fit these models (retractable or fixed). Non-shrouded straight too for that matter.

I wonder what the sensor looks at..

Fundamentally an electric eye circuit I'd expect (banana breaks optical beam when inserted). 

Yes, I hope anyone here have these to verify, in meantime i bought the normal probeset from Keysight istead.

I have sets from both Probemaster and Agilent/Keysight, and I much prefer the Probemaster leads.

Better quality overall, and there's a significant difference in the flexibility of the silicone wire itself (Probemaster leads are literally like freshly cooked spaghetti noodles, while the Agilent leads aren't <have a memory to them from being folded up>). Flexibility helps keep them from getting tangled up so bad, and also makes it easier to untangle.

All of this may seem small and nitpicky, but such details really do make a huge difference in usage IME.

[neslekkim]

I have sets from both Probemaster and Agilent/Keysight, and I much prefer the Probemaster leads.

Better quality overall, and there's a significant difference in the flexibility of the silicone wire itself (Probemaster leads are literally like freshly cooked spaghetti noodles, while the Agilent leads aren't <have a memory to them from being folded up>). Flexibility helps keep them from getting tangled up so bad, and also makes it easier to untangle.

All of this may seem small and nitpicky, but such details really do make a huge difference in usage IME.

Tested now, and yes, the meters don't care wether it's shrouded or unshroudede.. for some reason I thought an sensor was there to check if the shroud itself was inside, not to see if the banana was there, as that would work just fine with split jacks.. strange.

ah, that's great, I wanted some more flexible cables, also looks like the probe iteself is better to hold also, like the thicker pens sort of.

[nanofrog]

Tested now, and yes, the meters don't care wether it's shrouded or unshroudede.. for some reason I thought an sensor was there to check if the shroud itself was inside, not to see if the banana was there, as that would work just fine with split jacks.. strange.

Input detection is there for safety, so think metal (active electrical signals), not insulators.  The fact it can also help save fuses is just a bonus (i.e. gets user's attention before testing voltage when the positive lead is in a current jack). 

Shrouds do make leads safer to use, and can even help save DUT's and equipment from damage for example (reduces/prevents shorts). But it's an adjunct to proper safety practices, not a replacement.

ah, that's great, I wanted some more flexible cables, also looks like the probe iteself is better to hold also, like the thicker pens sort of.

They've different probes (Softie's used on the 8000 series, and hard, non-flexible versions used for the 9000 modular series). I have both, and I don't mind either.

Early on, the Softies may feel strange to you if you go that route (hard section under the soft rubber + highly flexible section that serves as the strain relief). But they're very comfortable to use, and very controllable as well (just takes a bit of use to get accustomed). Modular versions will feel a lot more familiar (full length is achieved when the probe is attached to the straight connector; otherwise you might look at it and go  ). 

Can't stress how nice the sharpness of the tips are (will stay put; no slipping and sliding around  ).

Personally, I actually prefer the modular 9000 series for general purpose electronics work due to less weight on the test point when using accessories (alligator clips, micro grabbers, ...). Less weight = less likely to come off on you.

The 8000 series means you always have the weight of the probe + whatever connector you screwed on hanging off your test point, and the additional length can be a PITA as well. Quite suitable for larger stuff, but will be more difficult on smaller thru-hole and SMD packages.

[danny_isr]

i'm looking to get a set from probe master as well for my HP 34401A. 

1) Do they fit this DMM ?

2) Which will work better, the strait one or L shape ?

3) i'm debating between the 8044SK to the 9104S (or R). i understand the 9000 is more versatile and light in hand. Though the 8000 sounds like more comfortable and cheaper in about $30.

thanks

[nanofrog]

i'm looking to get a set from probe master as well for my HP 34401A. 

...debating between the 8044SK to the 9104S (or R). i understand the 9000 is more versatile and light in hand. Though the 8000 sounds like more comfortable and cheaper in about $30.

Either of the kits you mention will work with the 34401A (or any bench meter I've ever seen, or even hand held meters for that matter). 

As per which to go with, keep in mind you also get more accessories with the 9104S (allows you to potentially do more). For the leads alone (9101 v. 8000), the price difference is only $4.60 more for the 9104, and there's an extra set of connector ends on the silicone wire.

Regarding comfort, it's not like the 9000 series are horrible to use, long term or otherwise. They should feel much like any other decent brand probe you've used (feel like a good, non-ergonomic pen, so quite useable). The 8000 series is more ergonomic, but the benefits of the modular system outweigh this IMHO.

But there's a solution... get a modular kit, such as the 9104S and an 8000 series bare lead set (i.e. 8018S).    And if you do a lot of SMD work, do yourself a favor and get a spring loaded set or kit as well (8153 or 8151 respectively; both use the retractable banana connectors).

If you're wondering about value, compare this to the Fluke TLK287 lead kit (similar funds if you get the 9104S + 8018S + 8151, but less to it).

[TheBay]

I'd love to get some 8000 and 9000 leads in the UK, but the shipping directly from them is way too expensive, I have been trawling eBay but not found any in the UK and from the USA they are still very expensive on shipping.