Problem with Air compressor pressure adjusting filter valve.

[Kiriakos-GR]

I have one Italian 50 litres unit, I have it for more than 25 years,
the original adjusting filter valve survived to 23 years, and now I have lots of problems with all those no-name ones that I found locally.
Those damn units clog and die, or the inner rubber shields die in 15 months.

The pictured is the second unit that I am almost near to trash, mostly because there is no parts for them.

I bet that many of you , have an serious Air compressor, and if you are properly informed,
probably you will have invest and get a serious final filter that keeps the water in, plus an trusted adjustable pressure valve.

In this case I like to see the solutions that you have select .

[IanB]

Maybe you have to buy one online to get good quality? It looks like good ones may not be cheap:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-regulator-gauge-and-filter/?wmcp=amazon&wmcid=feeds&wmckw=26917-1050

Now is that one good, or is it merely expensive? The age old conundrum, is price a good indication of quality?

[Kiriakos-GR]

Nice catch 

I need 3/8  16-20 bar.
My Air compressor is adjusted to stop at 12 bar.

[IanB]

Looks like air compressors for tools don't generally go above 10 bar and typically operate at about 7 bar...?

[Computeruser]

I probably cannot help much. I have a North American (Sears) compressor that I purchased in 1978. It has a 12 gallon tank (so roughly the same size as yours). It has a 1 HP electric motor to run the single cylinder compressor. The regulator valve is built into the unit and (more than likely) is not replaceable. It is normally not running, so I ensure (with certainty) that I drain the tank after each and every use. I release the pressure in the hose, open the tank valve slowly, allow the tank to drain. Then I open the regulator so it releases any internal tension.

It is good to 100 PSI at 6 standard cubic feet per minute volume at 90 PSI. I cannot convert that, but it will inflate car tires, run an impact wrench and an air drill just fine. I have not used it spray because I have had no need. The compressor is in my basement (winters are too cold to leave it outside in the garage) and I ran rubber air hose out through a joist into the garage. I use the air outside and don't really need it inside.

Long ago, I re-wired the motor to run on 240 Volts. My nominal house voltage is 120 Volts, but the machine really drags to get going on 120 Volts. Much snappier on 240 Volts.

Sorry I cannot help, but I can sympathize. .... C

[Precisiontools]

Seeing your such a fan of European stuff, I'll be expecting a purchase from your local supplier of Kaeser.

http://www.kaeser.com/Products_and_Solutions/Compressed-air-treatment/default.asp

Only if you want the best of course...

[Kiriakos-GR]

The truth ...  I need one quick fix so to repair one of the two valves that I all ready have.
So to have back on operation my air compressor the soonest possible.
And I will do the best that I can, so to get something extremely reliable.

And so keep the info coming. 

[Jimmy]

We have a Kaeser Air compressor with a 2000L reciver hanging off the end of it with a dump valve on the bottom. Then it goes into an air dryer and filters.  It then goes off too the different regulators. We have many differnt types of regulator/filters onsite from Kaeser, smc, rexroth and thb. I would say use a thb one because they are cheap and they do the job we need it to do. It just depends, what you are using it for?

[vk6zgo]

You might have to bite the bullet & buy a professional unit-----they will be costly,but will do the job.

I suggest you have a chat with the local spraypainter,or a metal fabrication plant where they use pneumatic tools.
They should be able to point you in the right direction,as their stuff has to be reliable & long lived.

VK6ZGO

[Kiriakos-GR]

No one can imagine how painful it is to visit the local professionals who sale pneumatic tools,
and all of them to have the same no-name garbage and to baptize them with any nationality they like,
because they are so no-name that you can easily say that they was made even in Alaska.

I almost beg to find something of quality, and they offer me identical pressure control valves with more shiny look,
a little different shape , and with one dragon  sticker on it ..
At this point I started to get smokes from my ears.

I got back in my workshop, with one new inner rubber shield from the one of the two pressure valves that I have,
even if the original it was looking good.
I did install the new ( top side) and the valve continued to have problems.

At this point I started to get smokes from my ears for a second time , I payed 2 Euros for the special (dual walls) rubber shield.
Then I took the bottom body apart,  at the side that is the filter, I found something looking like a plastic nut,
and I decided to turn it and see what happens.  ( The valve it was dead in my eyes and so I did not had second thoughts about destroying it ).
The damn nut started to spin and it was actually a long plastic screw, by removing it I got the filter in my hand (  metallic copper pins forming a tube)   , and with it , it came one one spring with a damaged tiny rubber head on it.

I just got my special cup style cutting hand tools and cut a new flange at the same diameter (from a rubber sheet),
and glue it at the top of the damaged area.

The valve works again. 
Spare part cost ?  one rubber round flange at 7mm diameter / 2mm height, and one droplet of super glue.

After of this success I was so happy,  that I did a complete service cycle and a good cleaning of the Air compressor unit.   
 

   
 

[Computeruser]

>>> After of this success I was so happy,  that I did a complete service cycle and a good cleaning of the Air compressor unit

Good work!  Good luck too that it is running.

Now that it is, as I noted above, I keep my tank drained and the physical pressure off my regulator by loosening. I know it will pack it in one day, but until then, it runs well.

Again:  Good work and well done!  ... C