i found some kind of a trick with wd40

[Fr34k]

I used some super glue on abs and it left some kind of white powder, I tried washing it off but it didn't work... it just kind of appeared again.
if this happens to you just spray some WD40 on it and it will be just fine, I don't know why but it does work.
even worked with some of this powder on some resistors I had in the abs box I was gluing

[Ampera]

The glue probably dissolves the plastic when wet, leaving (after drying) a white powder. The WD-40 just cleans it off.

[MarkF]

WD-40 was originally designed as a solvent and degreaser for use in the aerospace industry.

Works great to remove those pesky store price stickers too.

[Benta]

Any oil will do this for you. Even salad oil. But it's only cosmetic.

[calexanian]

As CA glue dries it crystallizes. The WD40 petroleum content “melts” the edges back down. More importantly though CA (Crazy) glue is not a very good choice for abs. I recommend solvent glue. Model glues are available for ABS and they work much better and leave a clean look whennused properly. If you are more daring you can use solvents like a drop of acetone and that is an excellent abs glue. It’s so fast though that it may leave a distorted surface appearance. Tech spray flux remover is actually a great abs solvent glue as well. I found that out by accident. Btw WD40 or any solvent for that matter will eventually make crazy glue
Come up completely. Also some kinds of hot
Melt glue on some surfaces as well.

[Gyro]

When talking about WD40 these days, you have to be very careful to specify exactly which product you're talking about.

The original WD40 was a 'Water Dispersant', designed to leave a nasty oily film on metal surfaces. More recently there have been other WD40 products including a contact cleaner (maybe what MarkF is talking about) and many others.

This confusion has caused problems in several threads with people saying they have been using WD40 on switch contacts (or shafts) and other people calling them idiots. Lousy product naming convention. 

[helius]

Like most chemical suppliers, TechSpray makes dozens of different flux remover mixtures. I guess the one you used contained acetone.
Methyl-ethyl-ketone and dichloromethane (methylene chloride) will also weld ABS.

[ZomBiE80]

"Water Displacement formula 40" I wouldn't use in circuits, because that oil film collects garbage, and that could cause short in time.

[helius]

When talking about WD40 these days, you have to be very careful to specify exactly which product you're talking about.
...
Lousy product naming convention.

WD40 today is just a brand name, like P21s or Turtle Wax. Lava Soap is actually branded WD40!

[IanMacdonald]

WD-40 was originally developed for the Atlas missile as a means of displacing water from electronic equipment when it was outside in all weathers. A requirement was that it should not detune RF circuits, ie the dielectric effect should be near zero.

This is why it was originally called Rocket WD-40.

Yes, it does leave an oily film which attracts dust over time. Better than a rusty film, though, I guess.

[Halcyon]

WD-40 was originally designed as a solvent and degreaser for use in the aerospace industry.

Works great to remove those pesky store price stickers too.

I use an Orange Oil + Alcohol based air freshener. It works just as well (if not better), leaves no residue and smells far nicer. :-)

[GerryBags]

ABS and styrene (evergreen) are useable together and both get affected by the same solvents. Tamiya Extra Thin cement is great, but still needs some setting time, DCM (Methylene Chloride) melts both instantly and evaporates super quick. If you apply it sparingly, with a very small paintbrush, you can join ABS/Styrene seamlessly and instantly. It wicks into joins and melts a very thin layer of both surfaces, then it evaporates. Once the plastic has had a few seconds to return to ambient temperature the two have become one. You can also chop chunks of styrene into a small bottle of DCM, which results in a styrene paste for filling gaps in enclosures or insulating connections.

[T3sl4co1l]

CA glue has a high vapor pressure (that's partly why it's so pungent, also, it superglues your sinuses, which is the other reason!).  It evaporates from the joint and condenses nearby, leaving a polymerized condensate with a random appearance, hence the white scattering of light.

Filling the white deposit with oil can clarify it (particularly if the index of refraction is matched between PMMA and the oil), but this doesn't remove the deposit, or the surface roughness.

Better to do it with strong ventilation, so the vapor doesn't condense on the surface, and perhaps apply masking to the surface so the vapor doesn't condense directly on it.

Tim

[Electro Detective]

A WD40 trick found me that irritates a few members here   

Just mention WD40 at any post and how it works 'good enough for Australian conditions' for a particular application when options are limited or NONE,

and they'll swarm on you like peaved wasps    

They fail to notice the details on which WD40 product it is being discussed, how much to use, where to apply, sprayed on or applied with cotton bud / Q-tip,
as a penetrating oil or subtle lube, mild cleaner, tarnish and rust mover  etc etc etc

and the option to remove it any time with isopropyl alcohol or similar non residue chemical

instead they harp on about how the product is going to melt PCB adhesives, make selector switch tracks slide off into oblivion, and other alarmist tech voodoo     


Anyway, FWIW it's just another amazing use for WD40... getting the attention of anti WD40-ites... fast   

www.wd40.com/uses-tips 

www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp


 

[helius]

It's also interesting to me how different penetrating oils smell completely different. WD40 has a mild smell that resembles the taste of Pepsi. PB Blaster, on the other hand, has an overpowering aroma of naphthalene and fish guts.

[Red Squirrel]

WD40 (and gasoline) works awesome to get tree sap off your hands as well. Best of all they both smell nice too!

[Electro Detective]

WD40 (and gasoline) works awesome to get tree sap off your hands as well. Best of all they both smell nice too!

Works like a charm   

but suggest to wash it off asap after with mild soap or detergent or you may have skin cracking and dirty/flaky fingerprint issues once it sinks in,

especially thumb and forefinger which get used a lot to hold and turn stuff

[Mickster]

I use an Orange Oil + Alcohol based air freshener. It works just as well (if not better), leaves no residue and smells far nicer. :-)

OT for this thread, but a warning is required about this stuff. 

My Mrs had some of this type of stuff in the bathroom, resting on top of the toilet cistern, for obvious reasons.
I had a dose of the curry-bum one time and it wasn't pleasant to say the least, but I hadn't yet finished....
So, I sprayed some into the bowl, through my legs, whilst holding the landing gear out of the way.
A few minutes after I had finished and exited the bathroom, I started to get a really bad burning sensation on my crimplene bag and an inspection revealed some redness on one side. Two weeks prior, I had been on the table at the hospital, to have 'the boys' disconnected so there would be no little Mickster's running round. You can imagine the horrible thoughts running through my mind, about busted internal stitches and  bleeding to death etc.
Luckily, after going on tip-toes to dangle over the edge of the sink to splash some cold water on the area, I began to get some relief.
Enough relief to tell the Mrs I might need to go to the hospital.
She asked what had led up to when I started feeling the pain, so I told her the above.
She didn't laugh, but she did have a bit of a smile on her face when she informed me that "You're not supposed to get essential oils on your skin, especially sensitive skin."
So, it seems although I thought I was being careful, it only takes a very light dusting to leave you feeling as though you have been fondled by satan himself!