I've had too many to count I think.
Hey Mike, whats that blue one in the middle on the bottom? Looks like a big blue clamp?you are definitely right! thats the clamp meter!
Hey Mike, whats that blue one in the middle on the bottom? Looks like a big blue clamp?Yes - it has a built-in AC/DC current measuring clamp. Very handy for diagnosing car electrical problems.
with a Minichamp
BTW the small blue Pantec Zip pen-style unit has to be about 20 yrs old now. As far as I know, nobody makes something this small today - the nearest I've found so far is the one above it in the pic.
BTW the small blue Pantec Zip pen-style unit has to be about 20 yrs old now. As far as I know, nobody makes something this small today - the nearest I've found so far is the one above it in the pic.
How about this? http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8476 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8476)
I just upgraded...
That's a Mastech MS8226T I got for college and my dad's old Fluke 8021B. They are the only meters I have that measure properly in the presence of strong harmonics. In the picture, they are being used to measure the impedance of a transformer out of an old UPS, which has an AC impedance of 814 ohms at 100Hz. (I'm using my PC as a DDS function generator, and my best friend Tiffany Yep, a digital communications engineer/model, says hi...)
Haha... Tiffany Yep... didn't I think that was the name of a transient plasma ignition system that was mentioned on another thread?The Tiffany Yep plasma ignition system was named after her. (It's an inside joke, "Tiffany Yep lights the fire in my cylinders, even when the mixture is lean and wet.")
you should learn more on photography, coz you have a very confusing subject matter in your picture. me eyes tend to linger more toward the wallpaper. i think i'm going to be able to work really "hard" all day and night long if that wallpaper is infront of me everytimeBut that makes my entry special, doesn't it?
Can't find dims but looks quite close.QuoteBTW the small blue Pantec Zip pen-style unit has to be about 20 yrs old now. As far as I know, nobody makes something this small today - the nearest I've found so far is the one above it in the pic.
How about this? http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8476 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8476)
Or this:That looks quite nice, especially the backlight, clip-in probe and 3.4v diode test, but still a little bigger then the Pantec
http://westsidedelivers.com/item.asp?PID=7540 (http://westsidedelivers.com/item.asp?PID=7540)
or these:That's not a multimeter
http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=117 (http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=117)
http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=118 (http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=118)That's way bigger,and no resistance.
or this:pretty close, still a little bigger. but has current ranges :) Diode test only 1.4V :(
http://www.justhandhelds.com/store/Hongda_DT3211_Pen_Style_%20multimeter.html?__utma=1.248939648.1283818441.1283818441.1283818441.1&__utmb=1.2.10.1283818441&__utmc=1&__utmx=-&__utmz=1.1283818441.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=%28organic%29|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=pen%20multimeter&__utmv=-&__utmk=255167368 (http://www.justhandhelds.com/store/Hongda_DT3211_Pen_Style_%20multimeter.html?__utma=1.248939648.1283818441.1283818441.1283818441.1&__utmb=1.2.10.1283818441&__utmc=1&__utmx=-&__utmz=1.1283818441.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=%28organic%29|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=pen%20multimeter&__utmv=-&__utmk=255167368)
Pretty easy to figure out mine, only picture I have.
Quoteor these:That's not a multimeter
http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=117 (http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=117)Quotehttp://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=118 (http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=31&prodid=118)That's way bigger,and no resistance.
Yes - was looking at the Hioki but seems to be a wide range of pricing -Westside shows $38 but they don't ship outside USA. I found a UK dealer but they list at GBP59!
Pretty easy to figure out mine, only picture I have.
Woo hoo it's a Kiethley!
I've heard the new Keithley bench meters are plagued with issues. Plenty of faults and firmware bugs apparently that Keithley won't address.
Quite a few people have complained about them on the various forums in the last few years.
If true it's a shame because Keithley meters used to have an awesome rep.
Pretty easy to figure out mine, only picture I have.
Woo hoo it's a Kiethley!
I've heard the new Keithley bench meters are plagued with issues. Plenty of faults and firmware bugs apparently that Keithley won't address.
Quite a few people have complained about them on the various forums in the last few years.
If true it's a shame because Keithley meters used to have an awesome rep.
Dave.
This thread reminds me of another thread on a different forum....
Only it was naked ex-girlfriends :D
Here's mine ;D :
(http://imgur.com/0yCSr.jpg)
Not really mine. The image owner said his dog got a hold of his Fluke 28.
NIXIE TUBES!? Awesome. I've been looking at possibly getting some for fun.
(http://www.hackersbench.com/100_1351.JPG)
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
Edit: Look at that U1253A with it's little display Prophylactic still attached. Is there ever a "right" time to remove those, or should they just fall off on their own. I just don't know...
Edit: Look at that U1253A with it's little display Prophylactic still attached. Is there ever a "right" time to remove those, or should they just fall off on their own. I just don't know...
Protip: The 125* series has two protectors: the big gomey shipping contact film is obvious. But you probably didn't even notice the one underneath it. If you look closely at the edges of the silkscreened type on the glass, you can see that there's a laminate layer over it. And if you look at the very edges of the glass, you can see where the edges of the film are.
Hey @tekfan, what scope is that? Looks dangerously familiar.
New meter on the left.That's a pretty fat one in the middle there. It doubles as a mini oscilloscope?
This is my Radio Shack 22-812 meter and of course, the obligatory firesale U1253A.
One can readily see the difference between 0.3% and 0.025%!
The OLED screen is beautiful and sharp.
The OLED screen is beautiful and sharp. If the 1252a wasn't available I would pick that up; its still a steal at $147. Its the last left still available at Grainger as of this writing.
.The OLED screen is beautiful and sharp.
It could look that way , but how it will look 10 years later ?
Probably my question does not have today an answer ,
but i will wait and find out .
:D
- Voltcraft analog meter
I never heard about Hung Chang, but I just found a picture on the Internet and the modelnumber is the same (5050E).
- Voltcraft analog meter
That is a re-badged Hung Chang. Did Voltcraft keep the *cough* optimistic *cough* specs of the meter, especially the multiple kV measurement rating?
This issue is bothering me for quite some time.
Thank you.
I think this DMM can perform this operation (just like the Kill-A-Watt type devices), but only if the current is fed via the 10A jack.This is the whole clue (I had this idea olso before).
The adapter they sold can only be used in the 20A-connector...
Long story short (if I understand you correctly), they sell a DMM witch is not capable to do what the specs/manual suggest (measure 20A for many days).
I still don't understand why they sell it like this.
Whats that plugged into the fluke 179? is it just an adapter?
Twin 789's - I'm impressed.
If you guys like fluke porno then most of the rest of the gear can bee see here
http://www.flukecommunity.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19549#post19549 (http://www.flukecommunity.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19549#post19549)
;)
If you guys like fluke porno then most of the rest of the gear can bee see here
http://www.flukecommunity.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19549#post19549 (http://www.flukecommunity.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19549#post19549)
;)
I've had too many to count I think.Dave, what is that one on the right (your left in the picture?) The analog with the large red switch? I have one that my dad gave to me that looks very much like it! When I get home from my trip to texas I will check the brand and model number. Mine came from Eastman Kodak in Rochester. Hell, most of my family on my dad's side retired from there, back when they actually made things like cameras and film. Anyway, got excited cause that meter looks awefully similar.
I had an Extech 330 until a few weeks ago when i discovered a bug in its software and i had to return it.What is the bug in the extech 330?
After measuring continuity for a few seconds, switch to DC voltage, shake the probes a few seconds (you will see a lot of voltage measured on the display) and then try to measure a 1.5 AA battery. Mine and all the others from the shop were showing >120 voltsI could not reproduce it on mine (luckily). What do you mean by shaking probes? When switching to DC after beeping the continuity (and still floating the probes) it shows around 0-300mV. Then probing a voltage source (battery or anything) it measures roughly 2x voltage for the first read and then the real voltage for the others.
Mine was showing >100x voltage and had to be turned off to work again.That is bad. Mine definitely does not do that (i got mine thru Conrad).
I have wanted to post in this thread for a few weeks now, but haven't taken pics of my equipment until now. It's nothing fancy but I'm proud of them because they're a bit out of the ordinary. The analog is a cheapy kit that I got when I went to a trade school for about a week and a half.
(http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/zaraak/Equipment/DSC00352.jpg)
here's mine, I haven't been collecting long - I once thought I only needed the 2 for current and voltage measurement, then Dave told me I needed 4 so by the time I had bought 4 I had turned into an active collector and now I'm on eBay everytime I have a bit of money searching for meters - the yellow analogue maplin meter is one my dad bought me when I was 8 - I still use it alot, it has the loudest continuity buzzer of them all.
I just love the 87 series ones, I want to get a 87 IV but when you put them all side by side you can see the digits getting bigger with each one. I just love meters
Alright, I'm in... not really a brand, but not too cheap and works reasonably well.
I have thrown out my old analog one years ago, it rusted :(
This one (http://www.axiomet.eu/files/htmls/EN/ramka_2918_EN_pelny.html). Axiomet seems to be some sort of east european brand. Can't find a "made in china" sticker on it but it may be a chinese rebrand or something.VA18B .
A little question, what should i choose. Uni-t 61E or Vichy VC99+?
How much did you buy your Sanwa for? I'm going japan at the end of the year so i'm definitely going to get some meters
Then may analog with tautband movement, Wheeler W-599T and in my opinion is also a must in troubleshooting> I think this is only available here in my place.
Then may analog with tautband movement, Wheeler W-599T and in my opinion is also a must in troubleshooting> I think this is only available here in my place.
http://www.allimeter.cn/new/showroomview.asp?id=146 (http://www.allimeter.cn/new/showroomview.asp?id=146) or YH-377T brought to you by Suzhou Allimeter Electrical & Mechanical Industry Co., Ltd.
[/quot]
Thanks for the link!! Nothing is original on this part of the world...... ;D ;D everything has it's equivalent...... :o
Here are mine just got the Agilent today.Is that the 1242b?
and a cheap, mystery-meat LCR meter labeled only "4070L" from eBay that tends to read a bit high, but at least it is consistent.
Is that the 1242b?
I'm seriously thinking about getting that one too.
Could you maybe write down your first impressions of it? or maybe even a review?
How well does your 4070L work for you? Mine is very useful even though it tends to measure everything about 10% high in all ranges. Its predictable and can be compensated for, but still annoying. Wondering if I can recal it somehow...
But I can get an u1169a for 30 us dollars and have an extra set of leads. So not a super big deal.Excellent value for money from Agilent, wasn't expecting that! the fluke basic TL75 already costs 30 bucks so we have a winner here
BTW, since the Vichy/Victor/Whatever 4070L
Whatever = HoldPeak http://www.holdpeak.com/0/Productshow.aspx?id=20063 (http://www.holdpeak.com/0/Productshow.aspx?id=20063)
nothing exciting , just normal use..
My Agilent u1242B
(http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/25000/2384652030056081071S500x500Q85.jpg)QuoteI've had too many to count I think.
No such thing as to many multimeters!
This just came in the post for me:
Got it off ebay for £20 inc postage. Battery holder was damaged, but I replaced it with an identical one. I already have a 1503 so am very familiar with the workings. Unfortunately, the case is really tatty and the handle was broken, but the sticker says it was last calibrated in 2008, and it seems to work nicely. It came complete with a set of good C batteries :).
This just came in the post for me:
Got it off ebay for £20 inc postage. Battery holder was damaged, but I replaced it with an identical one. I already have a 1503 so am very familiar with the workings. Unfortunately, the case is really tatty and the handle was broken, but the sticker says it was last calibrated in 2008, and it seems to work nicely. It came complete with a set of good C batteries :).
Probably the one I bid on. The seller was driving the price up and selling it to himself for weeks. Apparently he gave up on ripping people off eventually!
This just came in the post for me:
Got it off ebay for £20 inc postage. Battery holder was damaged, but I replaced it with an identical one. I already have a 1503 so am very familiar with the workings. Unfortunately, the case is really tatty and the handle was broken, but the sticker says it was last calibrated in 2008, and it seems to work nicely. It came complete with a set of good C batteries :) .
Probably the one I bid on. The seller was driving the price up and selling it to himself for weeks. Apparently he gave up on ripping people off eventually!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271059344157?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271059344157?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
That's the one I got.
I did bid on a few others which were going for not much more money, but got outbid.
This just came in the post for me:
Got it off ebay for £20 inc postage. Battery holder was damaged, but I replaced it with an identical one. I already have a 1503 so am very familiar with the workings. Unfortunately, the case is really tatty and the handle was broken, but the sticker says it was last calibrated in 2008, and it seems to work nicely. It came complete with a set of good C batteries :).
Probably the one I bid on. The seller was driving the price up and selling it to himself for weeks. Apparently he gave up on ripping people off eventually!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271059344157?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271059344157?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
That's the one I got.
I did bid on a few others which were going for not much more money, but got outbid.
Ohhhh the nixie tube just love them, looking on e-bay for nixie tube gear wonderful
(http://www.hackersbench.com/100_1351.JPG)
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
I upgraded form a 10$ meter to a Agilent U1241B, my first real meter.
(http://ckemperman.nl/opendir/U1241B.jpg)
Extremely happy with it, also got the bluetooth module for free with it.
I've got the same meter. Wrote up a short review here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/agilent1241b-short-review/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/agilent1241b-short-review/)
Here's mineHello, your FLUKE867B use how are you feeling?You elaborate on the use of the online component testing capabilities please feel?
First my main multimeter used for bench, Fluke 867B Graphical Multimeter that i can't live without, esp its Component Terst function for "power off" troubleshooting:
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii538/genebaq/72d548cd.jpg)
Then may analog with tautband movement, Wheeler W-599T and in my opinion is also a must in troubleshooting> I think this is only available here in my place.
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii538/genebaq/33c0eb51.jpg)
And last, for my field work, Fluke 87III (LCD display says it all)
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii538/genebaq/8a9f4b6e.jpg)
And last, for my field work, Fluke 87III (LCD display says it all)
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii538/genebaq/8a9f4b6e.jpg)
First order them from Fluke as spare parts......................
Sure, make me even more jealous ;) I have once see a very nice simpson, I think it was or looked like the Capacohmeter 383A
I actually use a Sprague TO-5 on my bench.
(http://www.pa4tim.nl/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/micronta.jpg)
Also a Microna. Got it yesterday, Sadly, not working yet. Gives only zeros in all modes. It is said to be made by Sinclair for radio shack.
Nice!..... I am still having a look if they will buy and replace some of our old Psychrometers, so that I could grab one...It's not a logger ... Loggers are expensive |O But i am buying one USB thermocouple interface that can log apparently from DX
T4P, has is a logging mode or sth. like that? I often used my U1272A as Thermometer within the last few weeks when we measured at night. A reasonable Thermometer would be useful ;).
Love that 8846A you have a 48gx also, that must make us soul matesWe are for sure soul mates, because I am a "Real EE, wannabe machinist" :). I would love to be able to make Kelvin probes like you.
oldrose, doe that analog come with that yellow rubber/plastic protection?
My Fluke 720 was not so nice inside. All the isolators and deckrotor connectors were broken. I made new ones from teflon on my lath and mill.
Not mine, but I restored it for a friend:
<snip>
The micronta was my first "real" multimeter that I bought in the early 90's, still reads dead on accurate today.
Just found this thread when searching for something I was looking on eBay - I feel that I should post my multimeters too.
1. HP3468A, got it off eBay for £60 incl postage.
2. VC97.
3. VC99, bought these two off eBay too. Both work fine for my hobbyist needs, £50 for both VC97 and 99.
4. DT-830B, I knew it was gonna be a piece of crap, but I still bought it to find out 'how bad can a dirt cheap DMM be', this one was £4.99 free post. It was CRAP, I had to ditch the test probes and solder a pair of leads to it - the sockets have a thick layer of oxidised copper and the probes were flimsy. Well, for less than a fiver, I can't ask for too much.
...
My Fluke 720 was not so nice inside. All the isolators and deckrotor connectors were broken. I made new ones from teflon on my lath and mill.
Not mine, but I restored it for a friend:
(http://www.pa4tim.nl/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSC4231.jpg)
Might as well post my collection of meters..
Well most of it, used to have 4 of the u1272a's, but sold off 1 and gave another away (disappointed with them overall, hate the test leads that came with and dont like the update rate of the screen (too fast, yes too fast.) and the dont like the data logging compared to the fluke 289, just all around dont care for them. also have a few old analog meters and another 87v that I keep in my mobile toolbag. The micronta was my first "real" multimeter that I bought in the early 90's, still reads dead on accurate today.
I'm in love with your screwdrivers set ;-)
- Russian U4341 analogue meter
Update since my last post at page 8, took the picture for this topic and posted on another forgot to post here.Impressive! Now, which ones are in 'active service' ?
Anyways, I got them all together now I believe, I am not sure if I missed one:
Hi,That's worth a couple of times more than my car. :bullshit: :scared:
Here is my most accurate multimeter. It is a Datron 1281 8 1/2 digit meter.
I have wanted to post in this thread for a few weeks now, but haven't taken pics of my equipment until now. It's nothing fancy but I'm proud of them because they're a bit out of the ordinary. The analog is a cheapy kit that I got when I went to a trade school for about a week and a half.
(http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/zaraak/Equipment/DSC00352.jpg)
http://www.electronicsandbooks.com/eab1/kb/k0zfca.htm (http://www.electronicsandbooks.com/eab1/kb/k0zfca.htm) It looks a bit weird but there is very much info. That guy must have spend months going through brochures and manuals.
Related to multimeters and rather rare, a Philips nixie equiped calibrator.
I was used and owned by Philips in Eindhoven. It is probably a japanes calibrator with a philips rebranding, or the other way around. I have all the manuals including handwritten parts that suggest improvements for production run ect and the manual from the japanese brand.
It was given to me, the owner thought it was a rather useless sort of powersupply ;-)
I searched for a Fluke 8508A but could not find one.Today I wrote to Fluke if there is a chance to still get one.here is the link I used
... I never opened it but...Isn't that against EEVBlog rules?
Nice meters guys, I'd love get something precision as you have there :-+
Now these three aren't mine, just what I can use at work:
New Agilent U1232A, almost year old Brymen BM867 and about 4 year old Fluke 117. The BM867 still remains the only one who can accurately measure mA currents, which is ultimately the reason my employer bought it, although I really wanted it for the 500 000 count mode but we don't really need such precision around here. :-DMM
The new U1232A brings some interesting features, currently I love the tone option of low resistance beeper, it works on diode range too. What it does is it beeps at various frequencies depending on the resistance value or voltage drop of diode. When you try shorting the probes and opening quickly it generates sounds like some old 8-bit game console :-DD
edit: I forgot to add a bit about the probes. Those which came with the Fluke aren't really durable for daily use. We have 4 of them here and all of them sooner or later started to break up, I think all in the same place which is at top of the probe as the wire goes out. I guess the strain relief is not really working. You can just chop them off and use the cable for something else like small hooks for example, because the cable itself is good and has silicone coating. Few weeks ago we were shopping for some better replacement and found the convertibles TL175. They are really good, hopefully they will last longer. I think they're worth the higher price. Don't forget to get the version with screw on bannanas, for my work they are essential. BM867 came with some cheaply looking altough 1 kV CAT IV rated probes. I don't like them much so I rather got some generic UNI-T which you can see in the photo. U1232A came with more stiff probes, end is similar to the Brymen's, I guess that's for the CAT IV rating. Nice thing is they come with rubber protections ends for both sides. They also have isolation inside for the jack to multimeter so accidental unplugging from meter when still measuring something live should be a bit safer. I rate them above the UNI-T's but not as good as any of the Fluke's.
(http://www.pa4tim.nl/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/horlogevoor.jpg)
http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=4159 (http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=4159) picture backside
My new 6 digit voltmeter.
Is there someone who knows more about is. It has not a moving coil meter ( i do not know the englisch term, it is sort of thermic, there ia a coil or resistancewire, I think this heats the circulair formed strip and the shaft is connected to the end of that iron strip, if the strip heats it expands and moves the shaft ( in Dutch weekijzeren kern meter or 1:1 translated weak-ironcore meter)
It draws about 300 mA at 6V.
I think they are used automotive to test batteries. I think it is from the 1920's. There is no brandname on it. The back opens if you push the top and the test wire is spooled on a reel in there to store it.
Resistance wire and test wire is cotton isolated, no rubber or so.
My next target is to buy a true rms high quality meter, perhaps it will be FLUKE 87 or 179.I have a 179 and can speak for its ruggedness and real attention to detail - check this teardown and reviews (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/fluke-179-teardown-photos/). My biggest concern about the U1272 is the prominent rotary switch, which reduces its ruggedness when compared to the Flukes you mentioned.
What do I do when I bring new instrument. :D
Today buy:
https://picasaweb.google.com/100683312221737332313/34401A# (https://picasaweb.google.com/100683312221737332313/34401A#)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hF9tkx_TVEg/UQV1vQSGivI/AAAAAAAABas/ac2Vm3luVP0/s640/IMG_0404.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Zhgv_WPK8ug/UQV11CeXIeI/AAAAAAAABcQ/cBMmXdTexYI/s640/IMG_0421.JPG)
I just got a HP 3457A, and it's bang-on. :-+
Dave.
Yep, Dave is not awake today ! I think he meant this https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/what's-a-good-price-for-hp-3457a/msg193522/#msg193522 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/what's-a-good-price-for-hp-3457a/msg193522/#msg193522)
I just got a HP 3457A, and it's bang-on. :-+
Dave.
Very nice! when will we see the insides?
Amazing how much nicer those older displays were. So much for progress!
And a lucky man ;D
-I'm joining the Agilent DMM club soon, i managed to get a U1273AX from Element14's Roadtest ;)
Congratulations! No one could be more deserving, give us a good review ......On your command, kind sir ;)And a lucky man ;D
-I'm joining the Agilent DMM club soon, i managed to get a U1273AX from Element14's Roadtest ;)
It sais CAT IV 600V and CAT III 1000V.
If that's true or false is difficult to say.
However, don't zap your cat! :P
If you can do with a UNI-T UT61E drop Franky, "iloveelectronics" a message.I saw one of these in Dave's reviews, but couldn't find one from a seller I could trust. Never bought anything expensive (+€ 22) on ebay. And true RMS for that price is AWESOME!
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee415/Mitutoyo2/TX1_zps4d62217d.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/Mitutoyo2/media/TX1_zps4d62217d.jpg.html)
Don't make them any more, been looking for one for a while, found one, it is a very nice meter. Keep an eye on eBay, they are out there.
This NLS X-2 nixie tube bench DMM just arrived.
Keithley 196 measuring my Power Designs Precision 2020B... fight of the LM399s... :box:
Keithley 196 measuring my Power Designs Precision 2020B... fight of the LM399s... :box:
reported the post to the moderators
pornographic content
;D
You should see where the vernier knob is! ^-^
You should see where the vernier knob is! ^-^
I am working on making some 10 turn 1 ohm pots to go there with a turns counting dial >:D
The TPWS is just fluke 187.Excavatoree knows that. He collects Fluke multimeters that are "unique" (in this case, the faceplate saying TPWS).
3 1/2 digit ADC with bandgap reference: Maxim MAX130CPL (datasheet) (marking: "Maxim MAX130CPL 0138-3 C10039")
CPU: Metex KS57C2016 (Samsung KS57C2016 4-bit microcontroller with custom Metex firmware) (marking: "Metex 93D3 KS57C2016-02 410")
?: Metex 9005 (marking has ST logo: "Metex 9005 MET7ACS 92A32792BA")
Crystal: 4.1856MHz crystal
555 timer: Intersil ICM7555CBA (datasheet) (marking: "H 7555 CBA L405")
Quad analog switch/quad multiplexer: Motorola 14066B (datasheet) (marking: "14066B XAC334")
Quad 2-input NAND gate: GD4011BD
Optoisolator: Lite-ON LTV-817
Unidentified ICs: Two ICs, which appear to be SSOP8 packages are hidden behind black goo. The purpose of the goo is unknown.
I just can't say no to FREE!
I made a trip to my hometown to visit my parents last weekend, and I found this meter calling my name in a pawn shop. I guess it wanted to be with a few of its siblings. It's in like new condition, despite being over 30 years old.Nice find!
I made a trip to my hometown to visit my parents last weekend, and I found this meter calling my name in a pawn shop. I guess it wanted to be with a few of its siblings. It's in like new condition, despite being over 30 years old.
I made a trip to my hometown to visit my parents last weekend, and I found this meter calling my name in a pawn shop. I guess it wanted to be with a few of its siblings. It's in like new condition, despite being over 30 years old.
All your fluke multimeters will rise, steal all the batteries in your house
I need to count them all. More importantly, I need to confirm that the batteries are gone from the ones I don't use. Amazingly, the 30 year old meter still had it's 35 year old battery, and it didn't leak!
I made a trip to my hometown to visit my parents last weekend, and I found this meter calling my name in a pawn shop. I guess it wanted to be with a few of its siblings. It's in like new condition, despite being over 30 years old.
just got and agilent U1232A gotta love the power on sound! agilentfailure (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2azndLqxaFY#) , i found how to turn it off but why its there to begin with?
Disabled the sound on my Agilent multimeters as well. Somebody needs to mod the firmware so we can have contin-sounds only!
I bought a second bench multimeter, Philips PM 2534. The price was only 130,-€ incl. shipping, this is less than a new UT-71C and I couldn't resist.
Anyway, 3 years saving and i will get this:
http://www.conres.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/1/12dd8c1debed4e7fe857e65e112d090a/image/_resized/30_441_250_2450_pic.jpg (http://www.conres.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/1/12dd8c1debed4e7fe857e65e112d090a/image/_resized/30_441_250_2450_pic.jpg)
yes, but this piratically is an entire lab portable lab.... can do a lot of things:
-DMM
-V/I source
-power supply
-precision electronic load
-semiconductor tracer/curve tracer
for 5K$ may worth it...
yes, but this piratically is an entire lab portable lab.... can do a lot of things:
-DMM
-V/I source
-power supply
-precision electronic load
-semiconductor tracer/curve tracer
for 5K$ may worth it...
4 1/2 digits DIY, based on 7135 / 7650, 20 years old, for DCV, DCI, low input current (10pA) and resolution to 1µV, 1nA
Yeah a pretty cheap multimeter :)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2nlelok.jpg)
Its a rebranded Velleman one, I don't know it does the job. If I had the money I bought an oscilloscope but thats way out of my budget :(
A beautiful Weston Cell, I wish I had one too, but I fear I'm born a lil' bit to late.
What circuit example did you use for the 7135 and what voltage reference is used inside? You have circuit details that you want to share?
If you're interested, I could search for the old layout I think I've still saved somewhere.
Sure, at least your current measurement implementation would be interesting. The only publication that I know that includes current measurement is the HAMEG HM8011.
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.By chance are you a Fluke Distributor or just an addict? :o :-DD
Hi
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.
(http://www.tooms.dk/download/eevblogforum3/Flukebatteri1.jpg)
(http://www.tooms.dk/download/eevblogforum3/Flukebatteri2.jpg)
(http://www.tooms.dk/download/eevblogforum3/Flukebatteri3.jpg)
And here is the benchmeters in the mini rack at my bench.
(http://www.tooms.dk/download/eevblogforum3/Flukebatteri4.jpg)
Tooms
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.By chance are you a Fluke Distributor or just an addict? :o :-DD
Lots of nice gear there. ;D
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.
And tell us PLEASE, what you do with all of these;
And tell us PLEASE, what you do with all of these;
Just a geek there started to collect
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.
Oooh I've got quite a few yellow items you haven't! Fancy adding some more to your collection?!
And tell us PLEASE, what you do with all of these;
Just a geek there started to collect
OMG. Just saw your site, congratulations for the work you did. Fantastic, my friend.
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.
Oooh I've got quite a few yellow items you haven't! Fancy adding some more to your collection?!
There is always some yellow items missing from the collection ::)
I dont have the space for more at the time.
Tooms
It was time to do the half yealy battery check and changeup of my meters so here is some photos.
Oooh I've got quite a few yellow items you haven't! Fancy adding some more to your collection?!
There is always some yellow items missing from the collection ::)
I dont have the space for more at the time.
Tooms
Lovely collection, can't believe you don't have a 481 radiation survey meter! Bit short of Networks stuff as well ;)
I bought a cheap DSO few months ago and got a Sanwa PC5000a DMM for almost free in some special offer.Looks like you got a great meter, and near free? Can't beat that at all. :)
Hello.
I bought a cheap DSO few months ago and got a Sanwa PC5000a DMM for almost free in some special offer. I would really recommend this DMM. Solid, fast and precise. Extreme difference after switching from some cheap Chinese crap ;-).
(http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/kys/cabinet/sokutei01/sanwa-pc5000a.gif)
Great! Can you check please, is that Sanwa model really made in Japan, not Taiwan, Malaysia or China?
As far as I've seen I'm in the minority here with an analog multimeter. This was my father's before he finally got himself a digital meter and gave this one to me.I have the exact same meter. I think it cost ~$10 about 20 years ago. It lives at my mom's house for whenever she needs me to fix things around the house :)
Great! Can you check please, is that Sanwa model really made in Japan, not Taiwan, Malaysia or China?Hello.
I bought a cheap DSO few months ago and got a Sanwa PC5000a DMM for almost free in some special offer. I would really recommend this DMM. Solid, fast and precise. Extreme difference after switching from some cheap Chinese crap ;-).
(http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/kys/cabinet/sokutei01/sanwa-pc5000a.gif)
Cost under a 10$, but worth the money if you have a lot of PC repairs..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-LCD-20-24-Pin-PSU-ATX-SATA-HD-Power-Supply-Tester-/170953669087?pt=US_Computer_Power_Supply_Testers&hash=item27cda1f9df (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-LCD-20-24-Pin-PSU-ATX-SATA-HD-Power-Supply-Tester-/170953669087?pt=US_Computer_Power_Supply_Testers&hash=item27cda1f9df)
For more precise measurements, I use my Fluke 8600A. I love the LED display, very easy to read no matter how tired my eyes are. Autoranging, too, though I don't use that much.What happened to the HP 3468A ? Sold ?
Just got my second meter! I've had the Fluke 115 for ~4yrs and recently wanted something with mA and possibly µA ranges. After watching eBay for a while I found this BK 389A NIB for $60. Think I got a good deal?Hey and IBM Model M! Just like what I have. What is the model number and date code on that?
(http://photos.xn--f5a.net/070413/dmm.jpg)
Which One?
Freebies with purchase from some particular store, such as Harbor Freight in here in the US?Which One?
What is the story behind the 16 seemingly identical red meters? :)
Freebies with purchase from some particular store, such as Harbor Freight in here in the US?Which One?
What is the story behind the 16 seemingly identical red meters? :)
Freebies with purchase from some particular store, such as Harbor Freight in here in the US?Which One?
What is the story behind the 16 seemingly identical red meters? :)
Are they in any way usefull?
Freebies with purchase from some particular store, such as Harbor Freight in here in the US?Which One?
What is the story behind the 16 seemingly identical red meters? :)
Are they in any way usefull?
Are they in any way usefull?For low voltage measurements that don't need high accuracy, sure IMHO. Could be useful in a car glove box to check for voltage on the side of the road for example.
Are they in any way usefull?For low voltage measurements that don't need high accuracy, sure IMHO. Could be useful in a car glove box to check for voltage on the side of the road for example.
Could also be useful as V & A meters on a DIY PSU that's not high voltage or current as well (say 30V, 5A max). Particularly if they were free. :o :P
Those Hickok 209A's are a sight to see. I love the large meter. I prefer the looks of the black face one over the silver one. Rebuilt one a couple of years ago but did not have room for it on the bench. Most likely will pick up another at a swap meet at some point.Hi Steve:
Hi Steve:
Yes they are very cool. I just went to and am in the process of looking at your website http://www.stevenjohnson.com, and just saw a photo of a 'Cooper Hewitt Rectifier'. Do you have this in your collection? If so, very neat.
Hey Folks, if you're interested in vintage electronic technology go to Steve's website.
Cheers, Mark
Hi Steve:
Yes they are very cool. I just went to and am in the process of looking at your website http://www.stevenjohnson.com, and just saw a photo of a 'Cooper Hewitt Rectifier'. Do you have this in your collection? If so, very neat.
Hey Folks, if you're interested in vintage electronic technology go to Steve's website.
Cheers, Mark
Yes, It's in the collection. I got it at an estate sale with a bunch of other tubes I purchased. Since it's full of mercury there's not really much I can do with it. Can't really ship it easily and items containing mercury are not usually allowed at swap meets so I guess it stays. It's pretty large. One of my winter projects is to build a stable display stand for it so the cats can't knock it over.
My small family :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v146/orbiter/Meters.jpg)
Here's mine
First my main multimeter used for bench, Fluke 867B Graphical Multimeter that i can't live without, esp its Component Terst function for "power off" troubleshooting:
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii538/genebaq/72d548cd.jpg)
My "new" multi-function meter. :)Can you tell me more about this meter, google is not helping.
A HP 3450A build 1970. Peltier stabilized reference and thermotransfer True-RMS converter. O0
The front panel was soaked in WD40 or something like that. :-- :-- :-- I had to disassemble it in pieces and clean them. Lucky nothing of that evil stuff penetrated into the electronics.
It has a fault measuring positive voltages. They are unstable and a bit low. Should be fixable. Negative voltages are spot on.
Can you tell me more about this meter, google is not helping.
Great! Can you check please, is that Sanwa model really made in Japan, not Taiwan, Malaysia or China?Hello.
I bought a cheap DSO few months ago and got a Sanwa PC5000a DMM for almost free in some special offer. I would really recommend this DMM. Solid, fast and precise. Extreme difference after switching from some cheap Chinese crap ;-).
(http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/kys/cabinet/sokutei01/sanwa-pc5000a.gif)
Two high-impedance meters...Nice, we haven't seen too many electrometers on here yet. I'm surprised Dave hasn't acquired one yet given his interest in low currents. Electrometers are more versatile and capable than the Keithley 480 picoammeter that he 'repaired' a whille ago. I think this one goes down to 10 fA full scale? Eventually Dave will do an episode on one and everyone and their dog will suddenly buy one, just like the rubidium frequency references ;).
Two high-impedance meters...Nice, we haven't seen too many electrometers on here yet. I'm surprised Dave hasn't acquired one yet given his interest in low currents. Electrometers are more versatile and capable than the Keithley 480 picoammeter that he 'repaired' a whille ago. I think this one goes down to 10 fA full scale? Eventually Dave will do an episode on one and everyone and their dog will suddenly buy one, just like the rubidium frequency references ;).
I mostly use the U1241A but switching to measure voltage is annoying when it's defaulting to measure ACV.
It was easy to bring into calibration but I've not yet plumbed the extremes.Fortunately calibrating/adjusting these doesn't usually involve accurate 10 fA current sources or 100 Tohm resistors.
The lowest full scale ammeter reads 10 pA, but with the 0.001 multiplier, yes, it goes down to 10 fA full scale. That's 100 aA resolution, in theory anyway.Or about 600 electrons/s ;). Measuring that is more like experimental physics than electronics, though.
There's a lot of interesting theory wrapped up in these old instruments, so I do hope that Dave gets his hands on some and does a "Teardown Tuesday/Fundamental Friday" on it when he's worked through his current repair backlog!Agreed.
A partial collection of my DMM's :)Partial?
i presume other dmm's that 'aint in photo, are flukes, right? ;D
Franky, what about a review of the UT139C, while your better half is on holiday and you're bored at home? ;)
Well.. just got brand spanking new agilent U1273AX to replace my now dead SOAR 4050B. Then I got a rebranded batronix 280 thay I never really got to like (super slow in aspect compred to my old SOAR and my new Agilent.Tell me how your Agilent is. I might be getting a new DMM soon.
Tell me how your Agilent is. I might be getting a new DMM soon.Which model/s are you looking at?
Is there someplace that has a nice history of fluke dmms and info? Like an online museum or so?
A partial collection of my DMM's :)
A partial collection of my DMM's :)
Check out that PROVA 803, with not one but TWO function knobs, one for each channel! I've never seen that before.
Those are two interesting pieces of equiptment. I assume you have them referenced to an external source, or do they have their own intetnal one. Is the ac/dc a thermal rms converter.
... I won't bore you with the gray-and-yellow meters around here.
What's with the Weston? Looks just like the Fluke.I asked Dave Taylor (drtaylor) who originated that side pushbutton design and he was of the opinion that Fluke did. The Weston is no cheap clone though. Take a look inside. (http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/gallery/weston-6100-roadrunner/) Awesome hand-drawn PCB layout. When I hold it to my ear I hear disco music.
I wouldn't mind seeing those gray & yellow meters of yours, especially ones with histories where you fixed them. :-+I made a little gray and yellow sculpture for you. A few needed repairs, but a bottle of IPA and some fusible resistors takes care of most problems. I fibbed earlier, I did save my pennies and buy the leftmost 87 around 1990. With an updated LCD and white backlight, it's still my favorite meter.
*snipThat is rather interesting, I forgot that average responding voltmeters can be that accurate by themselves. Then I remembered that they were almost neck and neck with your average thermal rms converter in a high end multimeter(70/80's vintage.) It is rather interesting that it seems like they used a possibly dual matched diode for this. To bad I cannot find any information on the diodes. My average responding voltmeter (Ballantine 323-07) utilizes 2 matched back diode(unitunnnel) true rf stuff these days.
I wouldn't mind seeing those gray & yellow meters of yours, especially ones with histories where you fixed them. :-+I made a little gray and yellow sculpture for you. A few needed repairs, but a bottle of IPA and some fusible resistors takes care of most problems. I fibbed earlier, I did save my pennies and buy the leftmost 87 around 1990. With an updated LCD and white backlight, it's still my favorite meter.
I know for sure who to consult 1st, when I scored a cheap, heavily abused & broken Fluke meter in the future. >:DJust don't pay $150 USD + $35 s/h from this seller
I just snagged a Weston 6000 for my collection, waiting for it to arrive. I am yet to see a meter with the ports on the side :):-+ :-+ Oddly enough, the ports are on the starboard side. Can't wait to see inside. :-/O
I am yet to see a meter with the ports on the side :)Daetron MM100 (page 7). I tried bidding on one, but lost.
I guess it's about time I made a contribution to this thread. I won't bore you with the gray-and-yellow meters around here. But here are some items from Mr. Modemhead's Multimeter Museum.
Here is my new (old) Gossen Metrawatt METRA HIT 28S(http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100923210150/simpsons/images/b/b4/Homer_drool.jpg)
Wish I could afford Gossen
I can only afford the used ones :), this is from 2007 but in perfect condition.I would hope so, and wonderful that you found a used unit in such shape. ;D
I think because they are so expensive, most of the owners handles them with care.
And i only paid 125 usd brand new!
I wouldn't mind seeing those gray & yellow meters of yours, especially ones with histories where you fixed them. :-+I made a little gray and yellow sculpture for you. A few needed repairs, but a bottle of IPA and some fusible resistors takes care of most problems. I fibbed earlier, I did save my pennies and buy the leftmost 87 around 1990. With an updated LCD and white backlight, it's still my favorite meter.
500$ in the USA:And i only paid 125 usd brand new!
A new Meter for that price is an absolute super bargain.
The regular price for a new METRAHIT OUTDOOR is ~850 USD
Sorry for bringing up an old post, but how did you update the LCD? Replace the elastomers or use a different LCD? I couldn't find this on your blog...You need something like this auction.
IMHO your multimeter is a rebadged CEM DT-9917.Yep probably :) they even have the same price
Serious problem here. A very tolerant wife and good storage facilities. All work and within tolerances.
Top Row HP3430A (Nixie), HP 3465A (LED)
Middle Row Agilent 34401A Agilent 34461A
Bottom Row Dick Smith Q1559, Agilent U1732B, Agilent Clamp, Fluke 87-V, Sanwa 460ED, Agilent U1253B, Sanwa ZX-505
My favourites Dick Smith (my first, I know its as dodgy as can be) Agilent U1253B (love that OLED)
Finally gathered them to "family" portrait. Shown in age order, oldest in the left:
(http://koti.mbnet.fi/jahonen/Electronics/Stuff/Multimeters.jpg)
Regards,
Janne
This is my newest meter. I wanted something that could measure larger DC current than my extech ex230.
Looks like a quality meter. Does anyone know who makes it? Might be a "lowest bidder" job, but it has the look of a meter made by a decent company.
Some of Klein's handheld multimeters are made by Fine InstrumentsLooks like a quality meter. Does anyone know who makes it? Might be a "lowest bidder" job, but it has the look of a meter made by a decent company.
I haven't had it long, but it seems like decent quality. I haven't opened it up, but it feels solid and has a fair bit of heft. I don't know if Klein Tools makes it themselves or if someone else does. It's stamped "Made in Korea" on the back.
heres my 2 meters old radioshack pc interface one and the fluke 289 I got a few weeks agoWhy cool expensive DMMs lack transistor measuring and caps socket? One for LED would be nice too!
Those little transistor checkers are a gimmick (good way to get dust & moisture into a meter IMHO though). And the "cool expensive DMM's" such as a Fluke 287/9, usually do have a diode function (but use the banana jacks to connect up a diode via whatever test leads you have that are suitable). ;)heres my 2 meters old radioshack pc interface one and the fluke 289 I got a few weeks agoWhy cool expensive DMMs lack transistor measuring and caps socket? One for LED would be nice too!
How to check transistors then?Those little transistor checkers are a gimmick (good way to get dust & moisture into a meter IMHO though). And the "cool expensive DMM's" such as a Fluke 287/9, usually do have a diode function (but use the banana jacks to connect up a diode via whatever test leads you have that are suitable). ;)heres my 2 meters old radioshack pc interface one and the fluke 289 I got a few weeks agoWhy cool expensive DMMs lack transistor measuring and caps socket? One for LED would be nice too!
How to check transistors then?How to Check a Transistor (http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Transistor) and/or Simple Diode and Transistor Test (http://www.electronics-radio.com/articles/test-methods/meters/multimeter-diode-transistor-test.php) might be of some help (other tutorials out there on this as well). ;)
Aren't there a way to do a more automated and advanced testing? I need to calculate the Beta and such other stuff. Are there some kind of specialized circuit?How to check transistors then?How to Check a Transistor (http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Transistor) and/or Simple Diode and Transistor Test (http://www.electronics-radio.com/articles/test-methods/meters/multimeter-diode-transistor-test.php) might be of some help (other tutorials out there on this as well). ;)
Transistor testing functions in a multimeter are considered a gimmick because of a number of reasons.
1. The socket needed for the transistor test brings internal voltages close to the surface of the meter casing. This is very bad practice when it comes to making a multimeter safe for high voltages and CAT ratings. You now have exposed metal contacts that could be at the potential of the whatever the test leads are connected to, especially if there is some failure inside the meter.
2. Transistor test functions on multimeters are almost always very poorly implemented and the readings are really only good for maybe a relative measurement between transistors. You don't have the full curve of the transistor's function so it will be a guess as to what the real value of the transistor is.
3. Because of the above, and because it is a cheap gimmick to add to the multimeter, it would be much better return on a design to spend the time and funds adding better safety, durability, quality, or accuracy. It is a cheap "look at all my functions" gimmick rather than something useful.
It is much better to spend the money on a dedicated transistor tester than waste money on a multimeter just because it has the transistor feature.
These things are handy, I use one for lead identification all the time.Okay, so a LCR meter is a better tool for this task. I see!
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2014-Latest-Transistor-Tester-Capacitor-ESR-Inductance-Resistor-LCR-Meter-MOS-/251506763822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8ef8a82e (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2014-Latest-Transistor-Tester-Capacitor-ESR-Inductance-Resistor-LCR-Meter-MOS-/251506763822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8ef8a82e)
Here are a bunch of the multimeters I have had throughout my life.where did you get a triangle multimeter from? :palm:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_AAE2EfIR57M/TIEz-IhL-ZI/AAAAAAAAAA8/6u_YjYvQtKc/s800/Multimeters.JPG)
On the left is my first one I got as a kid from my dad. I did some projects with the boy scouts with it. Its a Hung Chang HC-213.
Next is a GB Instruments GDT-11 I got as a teenager to put together an intercom kit and trouble shoot a doorbell with.
The green one is a Greenlee DM-40 home depot special cheapo meter I use to check mains voltage at work. I also use the ohms and continuity on it.
The big yellow one on the end is what I purchased recently for $40 on ebay. Its a BK test bench 389.
I have been using it building a bunch of kits and just starting to really learn about electronics and I like it!
Ok now show me what you got!!
where did you get a triangle multimeter from? :palm:
Here's mine:
Image hosted at some bla..bla.. cheap n free soon will be gone ... https://s5lm5a.bn1304.livefilestore.com
how do use the forum image attachment feature? :-//where did you get a triangle multimeter from? :palm:
... that is because the OP was using crappy external image hosting ... :palm: :--
and your own post ...Here's mine:
Image hosted at some bla..bla.. cheap n free soon will be gone ... https://s5lm5a.bn1304.livefilestore.com
Why not used the forum's built in image attachment feature ? Instead of using unreliable external hosting ?
Some of the latestThat picture reminds me of Segal's Law: "A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." ;D
Some of the latestThat picture reminds me of Segal's Law: "A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." ;D
Behold! The awesomeness of this meter!
"Ohms has no polarity"If one wants to check diodes with some ohm range, one would want to know the polarity of the leads. The interesting thing is that I used to have an old DMM that had the lead polarity for the ohms reversing the red/black convention.
The interesting thing is that I used to have an old DMM that had the lead polarity for the ohms reversing the red/black convention.
My trio. Fluke 8021B, Fluke 87, and Heathkit V-5 VTVM (Yes, it works well even though it looks battered and bruised)
Guess which one is my "go to" multimeter?
There is a man who knows the way to a woman's heart. :)
(http://www.hackersbench.com/100_1351.JPG)
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
(http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss21/AF6LJ/Test%20Gear/IMG_0628_zpscejsyptj.jpg) (http://s558.photobucket.com/user/AF6LJ/media/Test%20Gear/IMG_0628_zpscejsyptj.jpg.html)
Like most of us, I have a number, but here is a video about the latest addition to the line, a Fluke 8100B Nixie Tube meter. I just got this going with the help of Tautech and Paul Moir (see repair thread here : https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/nixie-tube-fluke-8100b-dmm/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/nixie-tube-fluke-8100b-dmm/) )
My favourite: Fluke 87V of course !
But for precise work I have switched to using a monkey:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-multimeter!/?action=dlattach;attach=167279;image)
Like most of us, I have a number, but here is a video about the latest addition to the line, a Fluke 8100B Nixie Tube meter. I just got this going with the help of Tautech and Paul Moir (see repair thread here : https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/nixie-tube-fluke-8100b-dmm/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/nixie-tube-fluke-8100b-dmm/) )
https://youtu.be/bOKkrFakrys (https://youtu.be/bOKkrFakrys)
Wonderful!! I'm thrilled to see you got it back up and running. VERY cool piece of hardware!
-Pat
My trio. Fluke 8021B, Fluke 87, and Heathkit V-5 VTVM (Yes, it works well even though it looks battered and bruised)
Guess which one is my "go to" multimeter?
The VTVM!
-Pat
I'm with you on the warm glow of tubes. VLSI and surface mount technology is truly amazing when it comes to stuffing incredible capabilities into minimal space, and we'd be lost today without it, but there's just something about a well laid out chassis with a bunch of differently shaped glowing glass bottles on it. Perhaps that you can see the active elements, and can look inside and see different structures in different types. As wonderful as silicon is, they're still impersonal little black bugs with different numbers stamped on them.
If my recollection of what I read is correct, Philco's use of Loktals was driven in large part by their intense rivalry with RCA in the development of television and the fact that Loktals were developed by RCA's competitor Sylvania.
-Pat
Hello.
I bought a cheap DSO few months ago and got a Sanwa PC5000a DMM for almost free in some special offer. I would really recommend this DMM. Solid, fast and precise. Extreme difference after switching from some cheap Chinese crap ;-).
(http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/kys/cabinet/sokutei01/sanwa-pc5000a.gif)
oooh can I play...
Here's my unit. First multimeter, purchased from Jaycar for about $50, it's the Digitech QM1548
(http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af101/Widget1983/Electronics/IMG_20151013_032832_zpsm2h2rqix.jpg)
Beckman Industrial model 310
Beckman Industrial model 310Did you know that the tilting bale is designed to be removed? You can insert it into the second set of holes for a lower tilt angle. You can also reverse it and insert it into the second set of holes, to use it as a carrying handle or for hanging.
Did you know that the tilting bale is designed to be removed? ... You can also reverse it and insert it into the second set of holes, to use it as a carrying handle or for hanging.
I forgot I had this one. A Bell and Howell Schools (Actually Heathkit) Nixie DMM. I don't even remember where I got it. It's been sitting in storage for years. I plugged it in expecting "magic smoke" but I was denied the excitement. It powered up with no issues. It even calibrated after a half hour warm up. I'll play with it for a while then put it back on the shelf. :-DMMLooks Good. :)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r110/Axeman627/BHDMM.jpg) (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/Axeman627/media/BHDMM.jpg.html)
Fluke: 87V, 83V, 179, 117
Brymen: BM869s, BM857s, BM257s, BM65s (ac/dc clamp meter)
Agilent: U1272A, U1233A
Uni-T: UT61E
BK Precision: 2709B
Extech: EX330
GTC: CM100 (AC/DC clamp meter)
Calterm: 66430 (Harbor Freight 15-20 years old and hasn't blown up yet :) )
Brand new fluke ,bought here :€285 wow that is quite cheap isn't it?
http://www.ebay.it/itm/222042086727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.it/itm/222042086727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
(http://i.imgur.com/gsjRLeK.jpg)
I really miss my old Fluke 77, purchased in 1990 with my first proper wages. Unfortunately it was stolen 5 years ago during a concert >:(
You take your meter to gigs?Well, when you are the sound guy and you are setting up a concert at a poorly equipped venue (the fate of non profit clubs, like our jazz club) you usually need a meter!! ;)
"Hey man, lets make sure we got all our gear for the Stones gig......."
Drugs? - Check!
Booze? - Check!
Chicks? - Check!
Tour dates T shirt? - Check!
Fluke 77? ????????
this is mine, not the best but it gets the job done mostly, had it for over 5 years and still on the original battery
(http://cdn2.goughlui.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/DSC_9505.jpg)
Up to 10. Pretty soon they will take over...
Up to 10. Pretty soon they will take over...
Looks like some upper lip fuzz. I'm going to guess 13th birthday. My parents bought me my first non tube meter. :-+ Can you tell what it was?
Can you tell what it was?
@blueskull in Australia I think you are responsible to a limited degree due to principles similar to the "attractive nuisance". If I understand it correctly , that an object has some intrinsic attraction but has also some hidden danger.
For example if I put up a radio tower and do not put something to stop people climbing it I am partly responsible.
PS I am NOT a lawyer.
PPS I think you were considering getting a U1461A, I am happy with mine, not cheap but a good device with set of accessories, case etc.
Can you tell what it was?
Micronta 50K ohm/volt VOM with range-doubler?
Which is you go to meter?
I have a couple of Fluke 289, but I prefer a Fluke 189. I find the 189 is more responsive, I find there is a noticeable delay with the 289s when they are auto ranging.
Willb,
That is a nicehoardcollection :D
Which is you go to meter?
I have a couple of Fluke 289, but I prefer a Fluke 189. I find the 189 is more responsive, I find there is a noticeable delay with the 289s when they are auto ranging.
Regards,
Jay_Diddy_B
Philips :)
this oldies can read also nA, and resistors up to 2G
Which is you go to meter?
My go to meter is a Beckman RMS225. I really like the banana jack layout because I can use a standard 3/4" banana plug for the 10 amp range which very few meters can do.
I can't stand the S-L-O-W autoranging on the ohms function on the RMS225. I've owned a couple and tried another so I'm confident it wasn't just a one-of.
This multimeter collecting is a deep rabbit hole.
So on with the restoration.I would love to see your progress of this 187 restoration in a separate thread. The 187 is one of my favourite meters! :-+
Welcome to the forum!
From a clue in your picture, I think you might be living in or near Sachsen, right?
I would love to see your progress of this 187 restoration in a separate thread. The 187 is one of my favourite meters! :-+
Resurecting this thread to show off my latest aquisition - Solartron 7150Did you know that the Thurlby 1905a has a 6.5 digit mode? Press [**] then [51/2] to enable it. I recommend using the filter to help stabilize the last digit.
So I now have 11 meters 8)
<snip>
Keysight u1232a (Top left)
UT61E (4.5 digit)
Fluke 187 (4.75 digit)
Tenma 72-7755 (re-badged UT70B)
Standard ST31 or Maplins Gold N21FR (interresting DMM with light, sound, temp and humidity)
Solartron 7150Plus (6.5digit)
Thurlby 1905a bench meter (5.5 digit)
Solatron 7060 (6.5 digit)
UT210
DT830 (the cheapo death trap )
B&Q clamp meter
Did you know that the Thurlby 1905a has a 6.5 digit mode?Yes, I do.
Oh, it is definitely not a 6.5d accuracy meter. No matter how many digits are shown, it is still a 0.025% accuracy meter at best. But precision != accuracy. I'd be curious to see how linear the ADC response is especially at the 7th digit.QuoteDid you know that the Thurlby 1905a has a 6.5 digit mode?Yes, I do.
I am not sure how accurate the 6th digit is. It was probably never engineered to be a 6 digit meter.
I have powered mine up and will compare with the 7150Plus.
My problem is that I do not have a reference with low enough noise to get definitive results.
QuoteDid you know that the Thurlby 1905a has a 6.5 digit mode?Yes, I do.
I am not sure how accurate the 6th digit is. It was probably never engineered to be a 6 digit meter.
I have powered mine up and will compare with the 7150Plus.
My problem is that I do not have a reference with low enough noise to get definitive results.
There are few more abandoned cold Keithley 2001's in the another room. This one already look like disaster big enough.
(https://xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/3458A/u3/pigb2_2.jpg) (https://xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/3458A/u3/pigb2.jpg)
There are few more abandoned cold Keithley 2001's in the another room. This one already look like disaster big enough.
(https://xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/3458A/u3/pigb2_2.jpg) (https://xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/3458A/u3/pigb2.jpg)
I know you guys will hate me..
bottom HP3458A (reader's) and my 4920M jump on the train with me tomorrow, to travel 170km for little Taiwan calibration plugfest meetup. :popcorn:
There are few more abandoned cold Keithley 2001's in the another room. This one already look like disaster big enough.You can see that it's not feeling well by the way it's laying bellys up.
I know you guys will hate me..
What is Zin for those old VTVMs I always wondered (I know it is high, but how high).
Any difference between the Fluke 26 III and 79 III?
If not, why two different references?
My little collection of 1980s goodness.
* Fluke 8021B. Bought DOA. Fixed (clean, replace capacitors, calibrate)
* Fluke 8010A. Bought DOA. Fixed (clean, replace display, capacitors, calibrate)
* Fluke 8024B. Bought DOA. Fixed (clean, replace capacitors, replace display, calibrate)
* Philips PM2524. Bought DOA. Fixed (clean, replace capacitors, calibrate)
(there's a theme here)
None cost more than £20 :)
(http://i.imgur.com/YGKqWZz.jpg)
There's a missing DT830 that I'm too embarrassed to show as well. I recently sold my newer meters (!) because I like these so much. I had a Fluke 77 and a Uni-T UT61E as well. Also had a couple of Uni-T 33A's, a couple of Micronta ones as well over the years.
I've been after one of those Philips handheld units for a while. Never seem to turn up in the UK.This series does turn up on ebay Germany from time to time.
I've been after one of those Philips handheld units for a while. Never seem to turn up in the UK.This series does turn up on ebay Germany from time to time.
Sometimes in really good conditions for a good price too.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/PM2517X-PM-2517X-Philips-Labor-Multimeter-/122416300981?hash=item1c809483b5:g:n1AAAOSw4CFY19Uj (http://www.ebay.de/itm/PM2517X-PM-2517X-Philips-Labor-Multimeter-/122416300981?hash=item1c809483b5:g:n1AAAOSw4CFY19Uj)
We used them in the University and it was like the ultimate handheld multimeter of its time.
If it works...Thermal RMS? Do you know anything about that, how it works?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-multimeter!/?action=dlattach;attach=303960)
Has anyone ever seen this one?That is very cool; we don't get to see much Russian test gear here in the west.
(http://i.imgur.com/b1JeN79.png)
These units were quite popular back in the USSR. This one is still within specs.
P.S. I have access to many of different vintage soviet devices. And I can take a few photos of them if someone wants.
Sue, the most russian test gear we see here is ready to fight :-/O
The AC signal heats up a resistor for a certain tim. Then a DC voltage is connected instead to the same resistor, which creates the same amount of heat. The DC voltage is displayed as RMS value.
Basic physics. The riesistor sensor component is the critical element for the potential error.
Same method is used in the HP3400A.
Advantage: able to measure AC signal with high frequency and high crest factor.
Disadvantage: expensive and slow.
For a detailed description google for the Fluke 8506A manual. There is a detailed description of the operation.
Also here in eevblog there find a some thread for this method.
/pelule
Here is my collection of multimeters,
Sue, the most russian test gear we see here is ready to fight :-/O
Is it the heritage of Soviet Army? Where did you get it?
maybe you can help me to repair this little scope,
I think there is one of the early smd IC defekt, and I don`t know where I can get them.
They do simply functions, relatives of TTL, or a 5 transistor array. When switching ON it make one way from left to right, then stop.
seems to be the trigger or like that.
greetings
Martin
So, for starters, if you were to be flown to Mars (or whereever if it makes the decision irrevocable), and you could take only ONE analogue multimeter with you, which one should one choose? The UNIGOR 6e (or 6eP) of course! Combining the advantage of an analogue meter movement with the high input impedance provided by a FET chopper amplifier and sporting the widest choice of measurement ranges known to me in a multimeter, this instrument was the undisputed high-end product of Metrawatt as long as it was built. In a Bürklin catalogue from 1988 it is still listed with a price around 1300DM.I like your taste of FET-analogs. Do you have any of the accessories? Mine (Goerz Unigor6e) do have had some form of damage in the past in the needle as the red coating have partly flaked out, but still it seems to be spot on what I have been able to verify the readings with my limited equipment. Do not start to collect these high (10M+) impedance analogs. :-+
Its measurement capabilities include capacitance, at a time when only very few DMM did this. It is made with superb workmanship and built using discrete components only. Especially formidable are the Voltage and current ranges extending down to 1mV and 1µA FSD respectively! All U, I and R ranges are class 1 (excluding frequency error at AC). Protection features are comprehensive including an automatic cutout.
(http://Unigor6e.jpg)
H+B :) it have VFD tubes (Tung Sol)I love VFDs...
Now, having poured myself an IPA and assured that I don't miss anything elsewhere, I'm going to show you an even rarer beast, which I doubt that many of them survive and maybe none at all outside of western Germany: The Neuberger PKD4 analogue modular multimeter kit!
The company Josef Neuberger was situated in Munich and did build multimeters and other electrical test gear since the 1930s. It is best known for its tube testers and the Unavo/Telavo multimeter series.
The PKD4 Set was probably originally conceived as a training device and later adapted for professional technical use. It was made in the 70s of the last century.
It consists of a analogue, moving-coil instrument with the usual 10/30 + Ohms scaling which has a sensitivity of 60mV/50µA. It is connected by two 4mm jacks at the right side, into which the 4mm plugs of the associated range and function boxes fit. Measurement connections are to the front side and use 4mm jacks/plugs too. And there was a lot of those boxes:
Besides basic shunt and divider boxes as well as combined I/U boxes there are those with rectification for AC and resistance boxes (containing the battery too) in various range combinations. But that is not all - there was a DC chopper amplifier based voltmeter/microamperemeter with 2MOhm/V (PA6) and an amplifier AC voltmeter covering frequencies well beyond 100kHz with 1MOhm input (PA7) as well as a static (PA8) and a dynamic (PA10) transistor tester! It came with an optional carrying case (shown below), which could accomodate 2 basic indicators and up to 8 range/function boxes. The accompanying brochure lists not only the characteristics and usage of the modules, but gives the complete circuit diagram for each one!
The makeup of it lends itself extremely well to self-build extensions and as I have lots of ideas I will have some compatible boxes made. I am not willing to sacrifice any of mine, even the redundant ones but I also want them to look exactly the same as the original ones. I plan to make a digital base instrument too, maybe with some memory functions or even a data interface.
One little setback occurs when trying to aquire the batteries needed to operate all modules: the IEC15F20 22.5V block battery needed by the PA7 and PA8 might be well made of Unobtainium! The PA5 and PA11 resistance modules use the 10F15 15V cell, which is only marginally easier to get. The PA10 uses two half-AA (not AAA) cells. I have resorted to fit 2mm jacks in the top side to connect an external supply when possible. Maybe I could build a nice, electrically stable linear power unit for all the options in the same size as the base instrument. Presently I have 2 base instruments with 11 modules and 1 case.
(http://PKD-4_1b.jpg)(http://PKD-4_2b.jpg)
Here the base instrument with one module, second picture shows them partially connected:
(http://PKD4_with_PA3.jpg)(http://PKD-4_connect.jpg)
It's fascinating that FET VOMs seem to have had a much bigger run in Germany and continental Europe in general than in the US. It seems like here they just existed in a short decade between VTVMs and 3.5 digit DMMs.
Wow, the fonts, graphics and the probe inserts are remarkably close to a ICE 680R multimeter my dad bought many years ago (also italian).It is the previous name of the very same outfit AFAIK.
The Novotest TS-140 is very hard to source, this one took me a few years to get because most that come up for sale are in a sorry condition, this one is near mint.Wow, the fonts, graphics and the probe inserts are remarkably close to a ICE 680R multimeter my dad bought many years ago (also italian).It is the previous name of the very same outfit AFAIK.
My bench DMMs:
One of the 7040's needs attention anyone have the service manual specific to that model?
The 7150's needs a re-cal.
Although it works well I would also be glad to find schematics or service info for the Dana 5100.
My bench DMMs:
One of the 7040's needs attention anyone have the service manual specific to that model?
The 7150's needs a re-cal.
Although it works well I would also be glad to find schematics or service info for the Dana 5100.
Google turned a manual for the Dana 5100AF multimeter from the website ko4bb.com. Link https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://ko4bb.com/manuals/download.php%3Ffile%3DRacal/Racal_Dana_5100AF_Digital_Multimeter_Manual_HQ.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiNmrPcspLZAhXIDsAKHd_sAps4ChAWMAd6BAgKEAE&usg=AOvVaw3DfejjZxpKspkNur4iKDjG (https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://ko4bb.com/manuals/download.php%3Ffile%3DRacal/Racal_Dana_5100AF_Digital_Multimeter_Manual_HQ.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiNmrPcspLZAhXIDsAKHd_sAps4ChAWMAd6BAgKEAE&usg=AOvVaw3DfejjZxpKspkNur4iKDjG)
Hope the link worked
And the handheld DMMs...
I managed to thin down the heard of scopes then this madness took over, I admit I do tend to go over the top on things, have always refused to go to the TEA section though! (Only because I do sell the odd thing once in a while.)
And the handheld DMMs...
Neat collection. Many I've not seen before.QuoteI managed to thin down the heard of scopes then this madness took over, I admit I do tend to go over the top on things, have always refused to go to the TEA section though! (Only because I do sell the odd thing once in a while.)
Resistance is futile. You already show clear signs of the infection. And selling some of your stuff doesn't disqualify you. I've done it too. (Shhh! Don't tell the others. ;D)
No, they were similar but different products from different manufacturers. I used both of them (but I preferred a bigger AVO 8 ) , and after more than 40 years the ICE is still in production (you can buy it on RS).Wow, the fonts, graphics and the probe inserts are remarkably close to a ICE 680R multimeter my dad bought many years ago (also italian).It is the previous name of the very same outfit AFAIK.
And the handheld DMMs...
I managed to thin down the heard of scopes then this madness took over, I admit I do tend to go over the top on things, have always refused to go to the TEA section though! (Only because I do sell the odd thing once in a while.)
I have skipped a couple: I have 2 of those Tecpel 2606 clamp meters, and a vintage 1950's Metrix model 430 analog meter, I'll have to get a pic of that one over as it's actually a nice piece of gear.
The lower line are, or will be for sale. (Beckman T100, Metrix MX40, Metrix MX45, Metrix MX52 missing lexan, Wavetek 2020)
How I wish I could afford a 9V battery now...
(http://www.hackersbench.com/100_1351.JPG)
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
(http://www.hackersbench.com/100_1351.JPG)
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
Now that is a vintage DVM!
@Ciccio: As you seem to be quite knowledgeable on this topic, how are they (ICE/Cassinelli) related to Chinaglia and Pantec? (Like, is the Cortina related by design to the later Pantec's?)I'm sorry, but I do not know much: Chinaglia and Pantec (Carlo Gavazzi) were located not in Milan (or near Milan) like ICE and Cassanelli, but in the east of Italy (Belluno).
And how comes that the ICE and the Cassinelli share so many features, which are not commonly used in other multimeters (switchless, jack size, range doubler pushbutton, layout).
Also, I have a very specific problem with a T&M instrument from Italy: I own a 'fast transient monitor' from the deceased company 'Ingeneria Guido Gay', the FTM30.
If it is of comparable quality like his memory voltmeters (which I use), it should be good. That feller was a analogue wizard and designer of nice instruments! But I have been unable to find ANY information about it! Even to check it out, would need some manual. Any idea? I would be sincerely delighted!
It is the right guy that you've found. Also 'Gay Misuratori Elettronici' is the correct company name.Also, I have a very specific problem with a T&M instrument from Italy: I own a 'fast transient monitor' from the deceased company 'Ingeneria Guido Gay', the FTM30.
If it is of comparable quality like his memory voltmeters (which I use), it should be good. That feller was a analogue wizard and designer of nice instruments! But I have been unable to find ANY information about it! Even to check it out, would need some manual. Any idea? I would be sincerely delighted!
I never heard about "Ingegneria Guido Gay". I did a quick search and found this page http://www.underwateracademy.org/it/press-area/archivio-news/16-biografie-tridenti/1980-1989/140-1985-guido-gay.html (http://www.underwateracademy.org/it/press-area/archivio-news/16-biografie-tridenti/1980-1989/140-1985-guido-gay.html) where is reparted about a submarine robot and the discovery if a WW2 wrech, but I don't know if he is the same Guido Gay.
Best regards
Presenting the BBB, the Beast, the Beauty and the Brick ? :-DDI like it. ;D
The 87 is the beast or the beauty?
It is the right guy that you've found. Also 'Gay Misuratori Elettronici' is the correct company name.Also, I have a very specific problem with a T&M instrument from Italy: I own a 'fast transient monitor' from the deceased company 'Ingeneria Guido Gay', the FTM30.
If it is of comparable quality like his memory voltmeters (which I use), it should be good. That feller was a analogue wizard and designer of nice instruments! But I have been unable to find ANY information about it! Even to check it out, would need some manual. Any idea? I would be sincerely delighted!
I never heard about "Ingegneria Guido Gay". I did a quick search and found this page http://www.underwateracademy.org/it/press-area/archivio-news/16-biografie-tridenti/1980-1989/140-1985-guido-gay.html (http://www.underwateracademy.org/it/press-area/archivio-news/16-biografie-tridenti/1980-1989/140-1985-guido-gay.html) where is reparted about a submarine robot and the discovery if a WW2 wrech, but I don't know if he is the same Guido Gay.
Best regards
That he was active in underwater robotics was not known to me before.
Here are my two MTA memory voltmeters (peak voltmeters) from his company:
But for those I have documentation. The other two pictures show the FTM, whose case remains, unfortunately, unsolved.
Should you need the manual (with diagram) of the MTA, that could be arranged. But only if not too pressing, as I'm quite swamped with things to do.
(http://www.hackersbench.com/100_1351.JPG)
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
Now that is a vintage DVM!
*chuckle*
Seriously, I have two Fluke 77's that are probably 20 years old, work great, are still in cal, and I see no need to replace them.
(and yes, that's really one of my meters in the photo)
Now that is a vintage DVM!
The 3440a is cool, but its grandfather is even cooler 8)
Philips Nixie :)Oh. :clap:
You mean counts, not digits. Digits means the number of places, e.g. 9999 counts is 4 digits, and 1999 counts is 3.5 digits.Philips Nixie :)Oh. :clap:
Are those 1999 or 9999 digit units?
Yes. Cunts ;D Actually 9999 would be something like 3.98 digits, sales officer would call it 6 digits, since there is sign and radix. :-DDYou mean counts, not digits. Digits means the number of places, e.g. 9999 counts is 4 digits, and 1999 counts is 3.5 digits.Philips Nixie :)Oh. :clap:
Are those 1999 or 9999 digit units?
Ice Supertester 680R, if you don't have one of these then get one, Brilliant analogue meter, which is still in production.Hey could you write a review of this one?
(https://preview.ibb.co/nNonTH/5.png) (https://ibb.co/mpCE8H)
With all the leads and connectors.
(https://preview.ibb.co/ibrKax/3.png) (https://ibb.co/fXPu8H)
picture hosting (https://imgbb.com/)
With the Cassinelli milano Novotest TS-140 for comparison, these are made by different companies, Cassinelli is no more i believe.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mMxsvx/9.png) (https://ibb.co/dVG7TH)
If you need only the plugs, they have standard 2.0 mm plugs. I bought some from Distrelec, or you can search on Ebay.
Best regards
Hey SullyRD, do you have a source for the banana plugs? They seem to be of a rather odd size. I scored a Chinaglia Cortina a while ago on a flea market, but no probes came with it and I haven't been able to find them in the right size. They seem to be of the same size as the Novotest/ICE. Are they 3mm?The leads on the Ice are 2mm x 15mm
Sadly also the power supply to make the square wave generator in it work also didn't come with the unit, but that should be easy to fix.
Thank you.
I've had too many to count I think.So send some of them, after having robbed me I have little and i have nothing to count :-DD :-DD :-DD
A few years ago I used to think about downsizing my collection and was always tempted to get rid of both my Flukes 8060 and 8062. However, they are so straightforward to use, still accurate decades after the last cal and incredibly portable that nowadays I just think they will be buried with me. :DAs Fluke 8060's are becoming slightly scarcer all the time, please keep the TEA community current on your state of health and place of burial by way of this forum!
I had the chance to get these two BEWA meters quite cheaply. They were made in Germany in the early 80ies, really some of the first
affordable digital meters available in Germany. They're just bog standard ICL7106 meters. Both meters are basically the same apart from accuracy specs.
There's BEWA's full size, full colour advert from the back of an Elektor magazine from 1984.
In the early 80's, I was working beside school in a long defunct local electronics shop, as was a friend of mine. I already had my Fluke 8060A, which my buddy had followed with a Beckman 3030RMS. So when the shopowner came gloating about the 'super quality high performance economy multimeters' from Bewa, we both were not exactly impressed. But as I got a provision, I used the RMS feature on the big one to sell two of them in the tinkerer comunity at our school. It made RMS and 4.5digits accessible for some guys which were not willing to spend as much. Never owned one myself, though.
I had the chance to get these two BEWA meters quite cheaply. They were made in Germany in the early 80ies, really some of the first
affordable digital meters available in Germany. They're just bog standard ICL7106 meters. Both meters are basically the same apart from accuracy specs.
There's BEWA's full size, full colour advert from the back of an Elektor magazine from 1984.
MY Multimeter Zoo has been expanded by a Metrawatt M2036 while I was on a short vacation. Left the bid and won. Now I hope for fast and well delivery. Not that I needed it, but my multimeter sense was itchy anyway and it was on the list. I am curious how well the zoom function for the bargraph works in practice. I consider the function offered by it to be more practical than those of the closely related M2035, which has a very particular limit function instead. And it has peak function, good basic acuracy and RMS measurement, so it is going to be a viable instrument. It is my first of the Metrawatt swiveltops.I was still at the university, when this DMM came on the market and wanted it so badly but it was soooo expensive.
110.-
I was still at the university, when this DMM came on the market and wanted it so badly but it was soooo expensive.
Hmm, I should look for one.
How much dis you pay for this one?
Updated photo of my vintage Italian multimetersBeautiful ICEs. I inherited from my dad the first multimeter I have ever used: ICE 680R Supertester. It is a bit off in all ranges but it is certainly on the line for a repair.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/cv5Yep/10.png) (https://ibb.co/cv5Yep)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hn99Kp/1.png) (https://ibb.co/hn99Kp)
Don't know if this has been shown yet, but it's a Bell & Howell rebranded Heathkit IM-1212 multimeter.Teardown, info at
That's your website? I saw that article when I was wrenchin' on this thing. You can tell mine was hand built, lots of boogery solder joints!Don't know if this has been shown yet, but it's a Bell & Howell rebranded Heathkit IM-1212 multimeter.Teardown, info at
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/nixie-glow/ (http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/nixie-glow/)
That's your website?No. Modemhead is a member here and that is his site.
110.-That was a good price, congratulations.
But a year ago, a colleague of mine, who was acting on my suggestion, got his for around 75.-
And a correction: the one with the different function in the same package is the M2037, not 2035!
But there was a bigger one , which combined both functionalities and added dB with selectable reference.
This was the M2042. I'm still looking for one.
You are sure that the M2036 was the DMM of your studential pipedreams and not the 2042?
Not bad. Die 'Viererbande' habe ich komplett! (4E/4H/4S/4D). ;D110.-That was a good price, congratulations.
But a year ago, a colleague of mine, who was acting on my suggestion, got his for around 75.-
And a correction: the one with the different function in the same package is the M2037, not 2035!
But there was a bigger one , which combined both functionalities and added dB with selectable reference.
This was the M2042. I'm still looking for one.
You are sure that the M2036 was the DMM of your studential pipedreams and not the 2042?
It is well possible that it is the M2036 that I had in mind.
Not far away from the university, we had a BBC / GOERZ / Metrawatt distributor.
Even these days, I am using my Metrawatt analog meters for some applications.
And even compared at todays standard, they are kind of special.
Here are some pictures of my little collection.
I have buyed today this ..
Fluke 8300A options 1,2 + 5 (heavy nixie fluke)
I have buyed today this ..
Fluke 8300A options 1,2 + 5 (heavy nixie fluke)
Oooh, nice. Show us inside!. :)
Also, promise not to turn it into a clock!
I recently visited Tokyo's Akihabara district.Nice! The slightly older brother Sanwa YX-360TR was the backbone of meters in the 1980's in Brasil. Quite nice little meters.
There, I found this little analog gem. Brand new, and Made in Japan. As seen from the sales receipt, 4320 Yen.
I had a similar one almost 40 years ago, which I unfortunately lost.
ADC PWM type, like Solartron ADC
There certainly seems to be a bit of a Solartron 7150 Plus 'vibe' going on there, display and all.
@bsw_m: indeed interesting. Those are some new instruments here. Especially the latter shows that they did try hard over there too, What is the design date of those?
Might you have a link to a brochure, datasheet, manual?
Hi Neomys Sapiens.Hi barijan, congrats on that aquisition. Must be a rare thing where you live.
Recently I've scored a nice Siemens Multizet A1000 analog multimeter and found this post of yours talking about it.
I'm wondering if, by chance, you have it's manuals, or if you could point me how or where to get a copy.
The meter seems to be working fine, it's spot-on at all ranges but ohms, that is little bit off when zeroing, forcing me to always readjust the E-zero when change from ohms to other functions and vice-versa.
Googgleing a bit I managed to find only it's schematics, that seems to be pages 42 and 43 of a more comprehensive manual. But there's no much information at the schematics about the function of every trimpot on it.
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Greetings from Brazil.
Ricardo.
Well, it's not technically a multimeter I guess, as it does not do current measurements directly but I recently added an -hp- 3456A to my bench. Going fanless after my 3455A is great!Nice, I love my 3456a
Nice collection! :-+
I have a 260 also and it still faithfully accurate even after decades of use. It's the 7PM series to be exact.
The only annoying thing about these 7 and 8 series is finding compatible probes, due to these inverted banana jacks. |O
Nice collection! :-+
I have a 260 also and it still faithfully accurate even after decades of use. It's the 7PM series to be exact.
The only annoying thing about these 7 and 8 series is finding compatible probes, due to these inverted banana jacks. |O
That one was posted to other threads, it is the last one to join the herd:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/list-your-test-equipment-score-here (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/list-your-test-equipment-score-here)!/msg2894156
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg3043292/#msg3043292 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg3043292/#msg3043292)
This YEW Model 2440 with all its strange looks and features appears to be functional, albeit I can't say that definitely, because the working of the reference function as described in the second post is a bit strange.
I am not able to find even the slightest mention of it. Maybe a search in Japanese would turn up something. Any information pertaining to it would be very welcome.
croak.
...
The Hikari HM-2090 is in fact a Victor VC97 in disguise. It is there to help the aging Metex.
...
Two solid state multimeters containing natural semiconductor material.Hello,
Showing 20 volts.From power supply.
Perhaps I could use a voltage standard to calibrate them.
Wally
Nice collection! :-+
I have a 260 also and it still faithfully accurate even after decades of use. It's the 7PM series to be exact.
The only annoying thing about these 7 and 8 series is finding compatible probes, due to these inverted banana jacks. |O
Thanks, yeah, those evil male bananas. :(
But, I use this female to female converter, they're dirt cheap.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1cYE9mxWYBuNjy1zkq6xGGpXa2.jpg)
Random search at AliExpress, -> HERE (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32910010700.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.44c463403ihR8p&algo_pvid=4f9c0510-61b4-4537-9443-21eff1020ffa&algo_expid=4f9c0510-61b4-4537-9443-21eff1020ffa-1&btsid=0ab6f82315923282598445051e575d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_) , no affiliation, there are many other stores have it
OK, so the diodes are actually manufactured. Stacked diode circular wafers(or whatever they are called)Yeah, I know exactly what you mean.
Wally
Neomys, what's in that last photo? Maybe it's my browser but when I click on it for an expanded view I see a case containing what looks like a set of medieval torture implements??It is ToolPr0n of contact insertion and removal tools for (mostly) military connectors. Posted elsewhere, fell victim to the much discussed forum attachment confusion bug.
It is not that rare, but it is certainly a fine instrument. It runs in a class with some others like the Grundig analogue multimeters, HP???, and some others. A high impedance analogue MM is a fine thing, whether it is portable or a desk instrument. That 'secondary power' switch is something like a standby function?"Secondary power" is the main power switch. I'm not exactly sure why they called "secondary", but I think it's because it switches the power from the secondary of the transformer to the meter.
And what is the maker of the power supply beside it and what do those switches on it do?It's a Coutant LQT100, dual 30Vx1A linear power supply. Another ebay bargain, got it for less than 45€ delivered, only had a blown 1ohm/3W resistor that after replacing it's been working fine. The great thing about old gear is that service manuals are usually available, with full schematics.
I recently moved my Tektronix DMM916 and Beckman RMS225 to a Nanuk 910 case.Needs more test leads/clips! >:D
I recently moved my Tektronix DMM916 and Beckman RMS225 to a Nanuk 910 case.
Needs more test leads/clips! >:D
Here's most of them.Interesting. How do you like the DP100? I wonder whether it is worth keeping on the aquisition list.
Here's most of them.Interesting. How do you like the DP100? I wonder whether it is worth keeping on the aquisition list.
This one is a keeper, the THM560 will be sold or bartered away.
I am very much interested to compare it with the more versatile Fluke 867, when I get my hands on one.
My Fluke yellow clone.
***
It's very versatile. Here I it is being used to measure the base current of a transistor.
The meter snobs will say this meter isn't useful and that I need a real Fluke to make any meaningful measurement. The manual states its 250uA full scale. Looking at the half way marker (note, this meter is pretty fancy and has a linearization scale), the meter reads spot on. So it's small, super accurate and linear. Not to mention, it comes complete with a portable lab.
My Fluke yellow clone.
***
It's very versatile. Here I it is being used to measure the base current of a transistor.
The meter snobs will say this meter isn't useful and that I need a real Fluke to make any meaningful measurement. The manual states its 250uA full scale. Looking at the half way marker (note, this meter is pretty fancy and has a linearization scale), the meter reads spot on. So it's small, super accurate and linear. Not to mention, it comes complete with a portable lab.
You have that fancy switch in the lower left but didn't connect it. I want to see it switch at least between measuring current, voltage, and resistance. And then do one of your endurance tests on the switch.
My Fluke yellow clone.I like the vintage bread board :-+ . With all the modern fancy pants meters its easy to overlook the simple and sometimes most effective method of measurement !.... besides I like moving coil meters :D.
***
It's very versatile. Here I it is being used to measure the base current of a transistor.
The meter snobs will say this meter isn't useful and that I need a real Fluke to make any meaningful measurement. The manual states its 250uA full scale. Looking at the half way marker (note, this meter is pretty fancy and has a linearization scale), the meter reads spot on. So it's small, super accurate and linear. Not to mention, it comes complete with a portable lab.
In several German publications, this circuit appears under the name of 'Spannungslupe' (voltage magnifier). Example seeMy Fluke yellow clone.
***
It's very versatile. Here I it is being used to measure the base current of a transistor.
The meter snobs will say this meter isn't useful and that I need a real Fluke to make any meaningful measurement. The manual states its 250uA full scale. Looking at the half way marker (note, this meter is pretty fancy and has a linearization scale), the meter reads spot on. So it's small, super accurate and linear. Not to mention, it comes complete with a portable lab.
You have that fancy switch in the lower left but didn't connect it. I want to see it switch at least between measuring current, voltage, and resistance. And then do one of your endurance tests on the switch.
With this meter now being close to 40 years old, I feel its proven itself mechanically.
While some may flaunt the ability to change the firmware on some meters, my meter provides the ultimate approach. The quick connect springs allow the real engineers (ages 10 and up) to customize it for each particular measurement. Say I want to measure 2-4mV.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeuZCfLEWLA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeuZCfLEWLA)
In several German publications, this circuit appears under the name of 'Spannungslupe' (voltage magnifier). Example see
Messinstrumente und ihre Anwendung, W.M.Koehler, Franzis 1965
Ah. I initially thought of this:In several German publications, this circuit appears under the name of 'Spannungslupe' (voltage magnifier). Example see
Messinstrumente und ihre Anwendung, W.M.Koehler, Franzis 1965
For that demo, I used the small 7-pin amplifier included with the kit.
wow, when I was a kid I had that same electronics kit that Joe posted a picture of. I do remember the book that came with it... wish I still had it today!
wow, when I was a kid I had that same electronics kit that Joe posted a picture of. I do remember the book that came with it... wish I still had it today!
I often dreamed of being able to buy that one. The one I had was only 65-in-1. Looking at the catalog of the 160-in-1 with the "fancy" integrated circuit, and thinking of what circuits might be possible with that, but never had the chance to actually try one out. These days I guess the kids use Arduinos and the like, along with various sensors, modules, etc.
I noticed those kits are available on Ebay. I assume mine was long ago donated to the thrift shop by my mother, as I never saw it after finishing university. Perhaps one day, just for kicks, I'll buy one of the 160-in-1 kits and build the circuits I never could as a kid.
Here is my old trusty.The CAT is definitely with those test leads! :-DD
wow, when I was a kid I had that same electronics kit that Joe posted a picture of. I do remember the book that came with it... wish I still had it today!
wow, when I was a kid I had that same electronics kit that Joe posted a picture of. I do remember the book that came with it... wish I still had it today!
I often dreamed of being able to buy that one. The one I had was only 65-in-1. Looking at the catalog of the 160-in-1 with the "fancy" integrated circuit, and thinking of what circuits might be possible with that, but never had the chance to actually try one out. These days I guess the kids use Arduinos and the like, along with various sensors, modules, etc.
I noticed those kits are available on Ebay. I assume mine was long ago donated to the thrift shop by my mother, as I never saw it after finishing university. Perhaps one day, just for kicks, I'll buy one of the 160-in-1 kits and build the circuits I never could as a kid.
I had its predecessor, the 150-in-1 in the late 70s and got a lot of enjoyment from it. If memory serves, over time I pilfered a lot of the components from it for later projects and at some point it went out with the trash. Rat Shack had a lot of engaging stuff back in the day, between the XX-in-1 experimenter's sets and things like their P-box kits and the other Archer Kit stuff. Then they devolved into a cell phone store. Shame.
-Pat
This isn't my daily driver but it works just fine. Now, anyways. I re-wired it: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/where-can-i-get-triplett-vom-model-1200-f-data/msg2388165/#msg2388165 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/where-can-i-get-triplett-vom-model-1200-f-data/msg2388165/#msg2388165)Great job! I just repaired a radio from my grandfather and can sympathize with your last statement on that post: keeping everything original is a herculean task indeed.
The thread is not called "list your multimeters" ;D
The thread is not called "list your multimeters" ;D
[..]
Pro-tip: don't keep alkaline batteries in your expensive test equipment! A leaky $1 battery can RUIN a fancy $380 multimeter. Use NiMH rechargeables or lithium primary (non-rechargeable) batteries as these have a better track record.
[..]
[..]
Pro-tip: don't keep alkaline batteries in your expensive test equipment! A leaky $1 battery can RUIN a fancy $380 multimeter. Use NiMH rechargeables or lithium primary (non-rechargeable) batteries as these have a better track record.
[..]
Amen! Recently, I had to completely replace the battery contacts and all the wiring in an (expensive) Audio meter - after cleaning up all the mess the leaking batteries had left. Neutralized the crusty traces with baking soda followed by a distilled water rinse. I *hate* leaking batteries and the fact that new cells from so-called "quality brands" are beginning to leak after 12 months or so... :palm:
I have dry skin, and way-back, I originally tested 'live' (power) connections with the back of my fingers!!!
I've had an ICE 680R about 20 years ago - I did not recall that it had a buzzer. So there are quite different variants. A pity that they don't support my beloved Microtest80 anymore - but understandable in the times of CAT ratings and nanny-stateism.
I'd like to resume this thread and report very good news for all owners of a ICE680G or R.
To my surprise, the manufacturer still seems to exist. https://www.icericambi.it/ (https://www.icericambi.it/) A lot of new spares for the instruments are offered. The pages are written in italian language, but the Google translator might help us:
https://www-icericambi-it.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=it&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=ajax,elem (https://www-icericambi-it.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=it&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=ajax,elem)
cheers Rudi
I've had an ICE 680R about 20 years ago - I did not recall that it had a buzzer. So there are quite different variants. A pity that they don't support my beloved Microtest80 anymore - but understandable in the times of CAT ratings and nanny-stateism.Indeed there are plenty variants - I think mine was 680R model III and nowadays it is VII or VIII. Something similar to the Simpson 260 series.
Ground_Loop, thanks again for sending it. I went through its paces and found out many issues with the multimeter: one blown MOSFET, one Schottky diode of the 5V power supply, one shorted capacitor, a loose LM393 socketed IC... It gave me material to cover in several videos on my channel (in portuguese only, sorry). The first one is here: https://youtu.be/JoOxs_ExBTE (https://youtu.be/JoOxs_ExBTE)Here's most of them.Interesting. How do you like the DP100? I wonder whether it is worth keeping on the aquisition list.
It's terrible even when it works. I got it as a throw-in from another purchase. At the moment it does not boot properly. I think I have a Power problem, but it's really not worth spending the time on. Anyone want it?
I bought my beloved ICE 680R model IV in the late '70s and it is still alive'n'kicking :) I use it quite often.
This is good news because as much as it is a top notch tester, the probes are so-so and tend to break with use.
Turns out I have 6.Excavatoree is being modest ...
That isn't Excavatoree's staircase though, let's hope his collection doesn't escalate too fast... May have to nickname as "Escalatoree" :-XWHAT? Not one of those fancy ASYC or Mx3282 thingies? Thought so. :-DD
If we can't stick to a single DMM or list them all and are showing only one manufacturer at a time, here's my biggest number for one manufacturer (even if there are a couple of AOIP they're from the same factory). Still photo is missing a couple DMM's then there's the clamp meters... Then there's the Fluke, GMC, Brymen handhelds and a few bench meters...
WHAT? Not one of those fancy ASYC or Mx3282 thingies? Thought so. :-DD
Why is this wonderful thread dead?!
I'm actually searching for a vintage meter but I can't find out the brand or model number. My dad use to own it and I always wanted the same. Here's what I remember:
- Made between 1984 and 1992
- Digital
- Very likely all yellow case, or at least the sides in yellow
- Likely from Fluke or Voltcraft, but not sure
- Grey rubber buttons
- I think there was no dial selector, only buttons
Here a rough drawing:
Why is this wonderful thread dead?!
I'm actually searching for a vintage meter but I can't find out the brand or model number. My dad use to own it and I always wanted the same. Here's what I remember:
- Made between 1984 and 1992
- Digital
- Very likely all yellow case, or at least the sides in yellow
- Likely from Fluke or Voltcraft, but not sure
- Grey rubber buttons
- I think there was no dial selector, only buttons
Here a rough drawing:
I can't think of that many hand held without dial.
Cold it be the the Metex M80 ? I think these were also rebranded as Monacor, not sure about Voltcraft.
I have a couple Italian ICE 680R about 50 years old.The ICE Supertester line had another very similar model, the 680G. The main difference IIRC was the 'range doubler' button on the 680R.
They use old 3V 2R10 battery which is difficult or impossible to find today.
They use old 3V 2R10 battery which is difficult or impossible to find today.
BTW, regarding the product name, "tester" is a common term used in Italy for multimeter.Same here in Spain
Oh, hi there.They use old 3V 2R10 battery which is difficult or impossible to find today.
Hi, old friend. It is not that difficult. I recently bought one from the fleabay for a friend's ICE 680-R. Also look here in our country:
https://www.reguerobaterias.es/p90035361_pila-2r10-3-voltios-para-multimetros-ice.html (https://www.reguerobaterias.es/p90035361_pila-2r10-3-voltios-para-multimetros-ice.html)
or, even better, this CR123 to 2R10 adapter:
https://www.reguerobaterias.es/p90041957_adaptador-pila-2r10-mas-litio-cr123-energivm.html (https://www.reguerobaterias.es/p90041957_adaptador-pila-2r10-mas-litio-cr123-energivm.html)
Or, if you have access to a 3D printer:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803116 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803116)
By the way, I also happen to have an ICE 680-R from nearly the same vintage as yours (circa 1978). Pretty good analog multimeter indeed!
Those meters are strictly for the memories, not for actual use...Well, not really. I used to use it when aligning the IF in radios. DMMs are not up to the task. Now I've got a VTVM and the ICE 680-R is almost never seeing the light out of its drawer but there are things for which a good analog multimeter is still essential. The subtle movements of an analog needle are not easily obtainable with a DMM.
... and even a much older Neuberger Voltmeter from the '30s or early '40s. A true relic!
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-multimeter!/?action=dlattach;attach=2066597;image)
ASMOF, I've got a couple of even older METRIX model 460:Those belong in a museum!
... and even a much older Neuberger Voltmeter from the '30s or early '40s. A true relic!
....only out of my cold dead hands. ;-))Those belong in a museum!
... and even a much older Neuberger Voltmeter from the '30s or early '40s. A true relic!
I have the typical 8000 series bench Flukes and a trusty old 77 which I use but I'll bore you with a few unique early meters in my test equipment collection.
Supreme Instruments 1934 model 222 "Multometer". Back then test equipment was functional art.
(http://www.supremeinstruments.org/pics/supreme222.jpg)
This one is just a Continuity Tester but interesting just the same. It's from the late 1920s.
When a short is detected across the two chrome bars the red dot on the needle moves out of the window on the meter. If the dot does not move the item under test is open.
(http://www.stevenjohnson.com/pics/testometersm.jpg)
The Manhattan DC Polarity-Indicator was patented in 1905 and shows polarity in a DC circuit using a liquid in a glass tube that when current is passed through it, the liquid in the negative end turns red. They used a liquid filled glass tube that is in a hard rubber type case with a connector on each end. Electrodes inside the glass tube attach to the connectors. The metal sleeve can be rotated to cover the glass windows when carried in your pocket.
(http://www.stevenjohnson.com/pics/polarity3.jpg)
FYI: They still work!
The Simpson 221 (around 1951) - Interesting as the meter scale mechanically rotates with the range selection knob so you don't read the wrong scale.
(http://www.stevenjohnson.com/simpson/pics/simpson221-02.jpg)
If your not bored here's more: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/testers-misc.htm (http://www.stevenjohnson.com/testers-misc.htm)