EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
General => General Technical Chat => Topic started by: orbiter on March 06, 2011, 12:21:48 pm
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Hi fellas,
First off... Anybody think it might be a good thing to have a 'What's This Please..' as a sticky thread, and if so, could we have one please? Only because I've seen a few people (including myself) needing to know what particular parts are.
Ok now to my question.. What's This please.. :) I'm assuming it's some sort of photodiode or something, but I've had a quick search on around on the datasheet sites looking for the displayed numbers, but I can't see anything that matches.
(http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/1346/37140753.jpg)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/9344/76918181.jpg)
Thanks guys
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Looks like an IR remote receiver.
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It's an infra-red receiver for remote controls, by Sharp I think. It demodulates the 36-ish khz carrier to give an easily decoded datastream. There are many simiular devices (e.g. Vishay TSOP range), sho shouldn;t be hard to find data
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Ah ok, thanks guys. That gives me something to go on.
Cheers
orb
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IR
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First off... Anybody think it might be a good thing to have a 'What's This..' thread, and if so, could we have one please?
i agree, and it should be made sticky. how about this thread? just suggestion.
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Oh! Oh! May I?
The hand drawn part is the rough copy of the silk screen that was under the component. Basically a zigzag in a rectangle. Probably some power component, but I have never seen the symbol, so no idea.
EDIT: added a picture with a ruler. It's about 10mm wide.
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It looks like some kind of thermistor to me, maybe a NTC? Have you tried to measure its resistance
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At that size probably a NTC thermister for inrush current protection.
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Semitec 10D210 Thermistor, NTC, 10 Ohm, 3A
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Nice one, guys. It is indeed an NTC, measures about 12R when cold. Thanks!
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Any chance of the 'What's this please?' sticky thread.. please mods?
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There you go it is now a sticky. It will eventually become a very long topic though but I expect something to trwl through when you have an "unknown" and "some time"
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Great. Thanks Simon :)
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In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
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In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
My guess would be to minimize the overall field of the inductor since a CRT is sensitive to B fields.
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I've also got something I'm seeking information on. I'm pretty sure I know what they are but I'd be interested in some more info on these op amps.
(http://dplinks.ath.cx/pics/elektro/oldopamps.jpg)
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In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
My guess would be to minimize the overall field of the inductor since a CRT is sensitive to B fields.
I think it is horizontal linearity or "s-correction" coil.
Regards,
Janne
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@david77:
They look like early operational amplifiers.
The function on the pins is printed on it, so why don't give it a try and see if it works?
Don't expect too much amplification factor!
apex
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In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
Yes, that's what it's for, the permanent magnet biases the inductor to oppose the DC current so a smaller, cheaper core can be used.
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pls help!
1) white (ceramic like) rectangle with 5W0.1ohmJ on it?
2) yellow (plastic like) rectangle with .1uF (K) X2 etc etc on it? if its capacitor, what type and why its yellow plastic rectangle?
3) the green round coin shape with DN R, 20 D471K on it, polyswitch right? the NTC?
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First one is a resistor.
Second one is indeed a capacitor.
Third one is a NTC.
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thanx. but why the unit is ohmJ? and my question about the yellow rectangle plastic?
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I think "J" is an abreviation of tolerance, 5% I think
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1) it's a simple 0,1 ohm 5W resistor - just ignore the J - i always do ;)
2) is a X2-class 0,1µF mains filter capacitor - a flat foil capacitor in a yellow plastic block body - that's just the way it is - an X2 is designed to withstand a voltage peak of 2500V and it won't burn in case of an overload .
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thanx guys! i thought the J is Joule :D
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j means jiggawatt
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In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
Yes, that's what it's for, the permanent magnet biases the inductor to oppose the DC current so a smaller, cheaper core can be used.
So why isn't that technique used in a lot more applications where there is a significant DC bias current?
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Good point, the only place I've seen it is inside CRTs. I would think it would also be handy for inductors used in SMPSes which also have a high DC current.
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what is this? A78374 HP 8555A Spectrum Analyzer-RF Section .01-18 Ghz (http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390300754963&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:1123). i know the name alright, what it does? i'm serious, i'm not joking.
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That is one of the two modules that can be installed in a 141T frame to make a spectrum analyzer.
It converts the high frequency RF to a lower frequency that is fed to the lower module. Sort of a tuner.
Late 60s vintage.
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Anyone know what the FET labelled E401 is (second schematic). It's in the peak detector circuit and it looks like the drain and source are shorted together.
Is it maybe used as a variable resistance device? Anyone know a substitute or part number?
BTW This is a very nice voltmeter with plenty of rectification options and bandpass filter selections. Perfect for audio work really (or anything to 500 KHz).
(http://www.chinaicmart.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/200962422510387.gif)
(http://www.chinaicmart.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20096242260761.gif)
Though it's built with standard components, this ac voltmeter contains many features not typi-cally found in commercial meters; the most unusual is a selection of rectification modes. The meter responses available include true RMS ('fRMS), average, RMS-calibrated average responding, positive peak, negative peak, positive-peak hold, and negative-peak hold.
High- and low-pass filters (S1 and S6, respectively) allow the -3-dB-passband to be varied from as little as 10 Hz to 200 Hz, to as wide as dc to 500 kHz. The low-pass filter also is effective in the 100x amplifier mode, where the input equivalent noise level is only 0.3 pV, with 10-kHz roll-off.
(NOT WRITTEN BY ME)
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Thats a strange symbol for a fet. might not even be one.
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The symbol is standard, the configuration is not.
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Looks like a standard N-channel JFET being used as a diode for clip detection. If you tie the drain and source together the JFET also works similar to a diode, except you have one P-region and two N-regions.
What I find interesting is that the part number is not called out while every other part on both schematics is clearly labeled as to what the specific part number is or at least the value. Instead, for that part they apparently used the PCB part identifier label. That seems rather odd and possible a clue as well.
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I have never seen a JFET used like that before. I wonder if they are using it as a Schottky diode.
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Anyone know what the FET labelled E401 is (second schematic).
Well I guess it is an E401. Maybe at the time it was a good choice for use as a low leakage diode, maybe it or a similar JFET still is.
I found LS841 listed as an equivalent. Searching will turn up a datasheet for that, strangely it is a dual n-channel JFET.
If you are trying to re-create this circuit you just need a low leakage diode or JFET used as one. The LS841 gate leakage is specified at 50pA max, 25C and 20v so that's a target to match.
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Anyone know what the FET labelled E401 is (second schematic).
Well I guess it is an E401. Maybe at the time it was a good choice for use as a low leakage diode, maybe it or a similar JFET still is.
I found LS841 listed as an equivalent. Searching will turn up a datasheet for that, strangely it is a dual n-channel JFET.
If you are trying to re-create this circuit you just need a low leakage diode or JFET used as one. The LS841 gate leakage is specified at 50pA max, 25C and 20v so that's a target to match.
Thanks very much for the explanation
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Anyone have any idea what part number this diode is?
I've tried searching on SGS / E1274 / 525 and cant find any info
edit: Its actually E 1271
The DMM says it's forward voltage is 0.5v
(http://psi.abcom.co.nz/unknowndiode.jpg)
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I've seen many older (from 70's and 80's) varicap diodes packaged in black. Exactly like that one. It may also be a zener diode. Try measuring the voltage drop in both ways.
Where did you get it? How old do you think it is?
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i've tired one up to 40v, it's not a zener, well, not unless it's over 40v
It could be old, i was just given a whole bunch of electronics and i have bag of those diodes.
I'm trying to decide if i should keep or throw away.
Unless i can find a datasheet there not really of any use to me.
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I would guess the 1274 is the date code. It seems to be about right since SGS (Italy) was formed in 1972. So 525 must be the part number.
You say you've got more? Do all of them have 1274 written?
If you want to check if it's a varicap you caan build this simple circuit. http://www.hanssummers.com/varicap/varicaporig.html (http://www.hanssummers.com/varicap/varicaporig.html)
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Just noticed its E 1271 not E 1274
Still no luck finding any info though
The SGS and E 1271 is always the same.
The 525 part varies a little 424 / 510 / 525 with lots of duplicates
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I think it's just an ordinary silicon signal diode like a 1N914 or the like.
I seem to remember them in various boards I either fixed or stripped for parts,& yes, they are quite old.
Why not keep them & use them in non-critical applications?
VK6ZGO
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Why not keep them & use them in non-critical applications?
I think id rather solder in a diode which i know the specs of.
Without knowing the max voltage and current of that diode i wouldn't want to use it.
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I did say "non-critical"!
In "hobby" type low power applications there are many circuits where the actual specs of the diode are
fairly unimportant----just a "signal diode".
In fact,you could build up a simple circuit,using a known spec diode,then substitute the E1271 & see
what the effect is.
If the circuit operates in the same manner,it gives you a clue to the characteristics of the E1271.
You could even measure the characteristics using a fairly simple test setup,which you could find on the Internet.
Then again,diodes are dirt cheap,so you could throw them away,but you wouldn't learn anything.
VK6ZGO
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normally when ya build stuff, even for hobby use, enough things go wrong that you dont really want to be adding to problem by using components of unknown specs :)
i was mainly interested in finding info about the diode incase it turned out to be something special that might be of use. Like ultra fast etc.
I've got a few 100 normal signal diodes and about the same quantity of 1n4007's already.
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Just a quick ID question - can anyone identify:
Diode: Marked 62T02 and GI9774 (both on one diode, two lines) Google is no help. About the size of a 1N4002
unknown device in TO-220 package: IR9502 International Rectifier's website doesn't recognize it.
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Just a quick ID question - can anyone identify:
Diode: Marked 62T02 and GI9774 (both on one diode, two lines) Google is no help. About the size of a 1N4002
unknown device in TO-220 package: IR9502 International Rectifier's website doesn't recognize it.
Are they just loose components,or are they in a piece of equipment?
If the latter,you can probably work out what they do,& find something similar to compare
with.
VK6ZGO
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That's the problem - these are "grab bag" components. I suspect the diodes are house-numbered, but I can't explain why I can find no info about the IR parts.
I did a bit of testing on the diode - I reverse biased it up to about 200 V (limit of my curve tracer) with no breakdown.
It must be a garden variety rectifier with a house number or a number from some defunct manufacturer or something.
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Diode: Marked 62T02 and GI9774 (both on one diode, two lines) Google is no help. About the size of a 1N4002
unknown device in TO-220 package: IR9502 International Rectifier's website doesn't recognize it.
GI9774 will be General Instruments and a date code. 62T02 is possibly a complete part number but if so it seems to be an obscure part.
IR9502 will be IRF9502.
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this should definitely be made a sticky thread. Or is it one already? :-\
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Hi all,
I am working on a little project which needs a display, and I managed to salvage this 128x64 which I would like to use.
Can Anyone know what kind it is or suggest where I may find a spec for it?
Thanks.
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My guess from a bit of Googling is it is an unit from the JHD group, quite possibly a custom unit. Nearest I could find was the following:
http://download.maritex.com.pl/pdfs/op/JCG12864A0305.pdf (http://download.maritex.com.pl/pdfs/op/JCG12864A0305.pdf)
As far as I know most of these units use the same Samsung LCD driver so you might want to give it a shot.
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I have an old power mac powersupply that died. I don't know how the supply works but I have found a suspect looking component with burn marks on it. I've tried googleing and searching the big electronics suppliers but can't find anything.
It's in a 3 pin TO-220 marked H530 TOP200YAI PB0779. I don't recognise the logo either.
It fits on the small heat sink in the bottom left. I removed R4 and the TO220 package before taking that photo.
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It's in a 3 pin TO-220 marked H530 TOP200YAI PB0779. I don't recognise the logo either.
http://www.powerint.com/sites/default/files/product-docs/top200-204214.pdf (http://www.powerint.com/sites/default/files/product-docs/top200-204214.pdf)
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Thanks Rufus
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I'm going to do a major recap at my tek 2465B scope and found these, question is what is so special about this cap compared to ordinary good quality electrolytic type ?
Also it looks like its non polar type, can't find any marking.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5258.0;attach=16492;image)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5258.0;attach=16494;image)
These are at the switching ps section, they also used normal electrolytic type as the one below with 100uF 50 V marking underneath these metallic looks cap, they're encapsulated with clear plastic though.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5258.0;attach=16496;image)
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I found this on eBay and am wondering what probe this is. I thought it might be for an LCR meter but looking at it more I'm thinking probably not.. Ideas?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120766582589?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_499wt_1185 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/120766582589?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_499wt_1185)
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I don't recognize it. The four SMB connectors don't scream LCR meter to me though, since these are typically used for high(ish) frequencies. The coaxial construction of the probe also indicates RF. I would also expect at least two, if not four, connections to the DUT for an LCR meter.
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Ultrasonic probe perhaps ? Listing mentions aerospace, so maybe for ultrasonic inspection.
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I will vote for a Hall sensor to measure magnetic flux strength.
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What about a current probe with the missing current transformer on the front where the thread is? DC current probes need hall sensors too.
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What about a current probe with the missing current transformer on the front where the thread is? DC current probes need hall sensors too.
The sensor for a current transformer is extremely thin and is built into the transformer core - it cannot be in a tube. Definitely if we could see the missing half of the probe, the purpose would probably be obvious.
It is also very likely that without the missing half, it is probably enormously useless.
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I found this on eBay and am wondering what probe this is.
It is more like a spare part for a probe. Closest thing I see is http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/product.jspx?nid=-34051.536880742.00 (http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/product.jspx?nid=-34051.536880742.00) but is doesn't look exactly the same.
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@Rufus - Yeah I saw that too and thought perhaps that was what it was for. An older obsolete version perhaps. Who knows.. Still has me stumped and I'd just like to know purely out of curiosity.
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Well it looks like I stumped you guys on the last one. Hopefully not so much on this one. I'm looking for the female companion to the following male connector found on the HP 204C Sine Oscillator - Board A1. The two units I received are missing the power supply / battery adapter boards so I'm planning on constructing a makeshift connector so I can power it through my DC power supplies to test / verify functionality and then I plan on selling them because they're not much use to me without the power adapter and making one from scratch following their schematics doesn't seem to be worthwhile. I think the parts would be prohibitively expensive, not to mention trying to create a PCB.
But I digress. Can anyone tell me what the name of this part would be? I've searched around Digi-key and google a bit and came up empty. I searched using the HP Part number (1521-1631) as well as the manufacturer's part #, and came up empty. I imagine I can still find that type of connector, but I haven't the faintest idea what they're called.
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First of all, all that is needed for a power supply is +/- 13V. Should be easy with a transformer, rectifier, capacitors and a couple of IC regulators.
You do need to work out the current consumption.
If you are talking about the PCB edge connector, it looks like a standard 0.156" PCB edge connector. Check the pad spacing to confirm if it is 0.156 inches.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/306-010-500-102/EDC306100-ND/107635 (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/306-010-500-102/EDC306100-ND/107635)
Richard
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@amspire - right you are. That was obviously an easy one. I've attached an image of what the power supply board is supposed to look like. The details from the manual are lacking on the transformer. The manual seems to provide enough detail regarding the other parts.
Aside from the transformer issue, I'm still left with the PCB issue as well as a way to mount it since both enclosures are missing their covers. It appears these units could be mounted inside a chassis and I assume based on the parts that I have that one was and the other wasn't. Unfortunately the one that wasn't chassis mounted is missing it's exterior case as well.
If you have any suggestions regarding the transformer and PCB I'm all ears. I saw someone posting something yesterday about doing some sort of pcb transfer/etching with a laser printer. I have a laser printer so that might be worth investigating I'll have to google around for more details on that.
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I have attached a very rough circuit for a power supply. I will leave you to look up the data sheets and calculate the resistors for 13V. The negative regulator needs a minimum load to work, so if the oscillator can at times draw very little current, you may need to add an extra resistor across the -13V.
This circuit needs a transformer with a single winding 15V to 20V. If you have an old 12v DC power pack (the heavy ones with a transformer), the transformer inside would probably be fine. The oscillator does not use much current, so possibly anything you can scrounge will be OK.
For the board, it is not the strongest, but you could just get some veroboard-type prototyping board (the one with the parallel copper strips). Cut a hole for the edge connector leads and solder on the back. Build the power supply board on it. Cut away lots of the spare tracks on the primary.
I wouldn't worry to much about the battery option. For one thing, the Mercury batteries thy did use do not exist any more - they are banned.
If it is only the power supply boards missing, that is good as it is the one thing that is easy to replace.
Now this is no frequency synthesizer, but for work below 1MHz, what you get is the great vernier dial that none of the synthesizers have. For general testing, this is much faster to use then any synthesizer.
Richard
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Looks like this will be a good little project to learn a bit more about electronics since I have no idea how to do the calculations. Guess I'll be doing a fair amount of reading and work through MIT's opencourseware.
Out of curiosity, what's the primary difference between your schematic and the one in the manual for the power supply I showed? I notice some parts are missing from yours however knowing that you used to design power supplies, I'm sure you know what you're doing.
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Any hints?
(http://i.imgur.com/OUYTUs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/OUYTU.jpg)
It is placed in a small board of the antenna input of a Philips mini Hi-Fi. In the board's header output you can see pins labeled as SDA and SCL so it has an I2C interface.
A decoder for something perhaps? An input level meter? Could it use the AM ferrite coil antenna and act as a radio clock?
Alexander.
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Would this transformer work for the sine oscillator? The manual states it uses 400mA so this seems like it would work just fine.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ST-4-16/595-1166-ND/953036 (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ST-4-16/595-1166-ND/953036)
I'm still unclear on the whole voltage thing though. i thought I had to match voltages so why can I do a 16V transformer when I need 13V?
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Any hints?
(http://i.imgur.com/OUYTUs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/OUYTU.jpg)
It is placed in a small board of the antenna input of a Philips mini Hi-Fi. In the board's header output you can see pins labeled as SDA and SCL so it has an I2C interface.
A decoder for something perhaps? An input level meter? Could it use the AM ferrite coil antenna and act as a radio clock?
Alexander.
AMETEK AF3020 AM FM Dual Band Radio Receiver Module
http://www.ienk.com/am-fm-dual-band-radio-receiver-module-p-331.html (http://www.ienk.com/am-fm-dual-band-radio-receiver-module-p-331.html)
Not much info on the net for it.
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I would be very careful to observe proper clearance when running mains over veroboard, and probably try to avoid it all together, since it's exposed and easy to accidentally touch.
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I think if i attempt this I'll try doing the laser printer transfer method to create the circuit board. If nothing else it will be a nice experiment. Still debating whether the $$ in parts is worth it. Unlike many people on these forums I don't have a spare part bin to pull from so things like the transformer, banana jacks, connector board, circuit board, and female power jack are all things I'll have to purchase, in addition to the proper caps and resistors. And I'll have to find some steel to mount it onto so I can attach it to the oscillator.
Really I have to ask myself whether I want to spend the money as a learning experience or am I spending it purely to test the oscillators. Because if it's the former, then it may be worth it, but if it's the latter, then I should just buy the connector, figure out the wiring and hook it up to my dc power source and be done with it.
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Would this transformer work for the sine oscillator? The manual states it uses 400mA so this seems like it would work just fine.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ST-4-16/595-1166-ND/953036 (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ST-4-16/595-1166-ND/953036)
I'm still unclear on the whole voltage thing though. I thought I had to match voltages so why can I do a 16V transformer when I need 13V?
There is nothing wrong with the HP design, but the regulator IC's work better, they are just an easier solution. They are fully current and temperature protected whereas the HP design had no current protection at all. The HP design probably needs specific parts that can be expensive. Since the oscillator uses so little power, a power supply is the kind of thing you can make from scrap parts. Do you have any scrap electronics with an old mains transformer in it? If it is a lower voltage, there are ways to make it work. The Digikey one is fine, but it means spending $10 + postage.
Transformers used to be everywhere until the switching AC/DC converters took over in all the power adapters. If someone has an old printer from the 90's or an old dial-up modem, it probably came with a transformer based power adapter and there is probably a way to use it. Sometimes the adapters outputted AC, and if so, you could just leave the adapter as is.
As far as voltage is concerned, you have to rectify the AC to DC, and then the regulators need at least a 2V drop (unless you get low dropout regulators).
So 16V RMS rectified produces about +/- 19V rectified (allowing for diode drops, capacitor ripple, etc). At low load, it will be more like 24V but that is fine. The good thing about having more volts then you need is that it will work over a wide range of mains voltages.
Richard.
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@amspire - I think I'll go down to the local thrift store and see if I can find an old power adapter to pull a transformer out of. Should only cost me a buck or two assuming I can find the right part. I'lll still need to purchase the rest of it.
Another question I had -- though maybe I should create a new thread on this - is what do I do about the other pins on the connector? Some are used to supply inputs on the back, which i can safely ignore if I'm not interested, others are Bias Test and AGC Test, which I have no idea what to do with. And then another is listed as Power Supply R4 which I have no idea about what to do with that as well.
I think what I'll do in the meantime is hookup the oscillator directly to my power supply. The clips/wires just arrived today so I should be able to hookup +/- 13 volts w/o any problem. Though now that I think about it I'll need a third wire to connect ground to the power supply. Drats.. I'll have to order another cable.
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Thanks m8!
Alexander.
AMETEK AF3020 AM FM Dual Band Radio Receiver Module
http://www.ienk.com/am-fm-dual-band-radio-receiver-module-p-331.html (http://www.ienk.com/am-fm-dual-band-radio-receiver-module-p-331.html)
Not much info on the net for it.
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What are the power rating for these old classic 10 turns pots ?
The resistance values from the top one are 20 ohm, 250 ohm and 1.15 ohm. Included at the right the cheap common pot as size comparison.
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i'm searching datasheet for this 2.4GHz RF Transceiver. no luck, please help search for me. you maybe have another better link. i tried datasheet datasheet thread no luck, found nRF2402, pin not compatible. sigh.
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What are the power rating for these old classic 10 turns pots ?
The resistance values from the top one are 20 ohm, 250 ohm and 1.15 ohm. Included at the right the cheap common pot as size comparison.
At a very rough guess,I'd say 1-2 watts.
VK6ZGO
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i'm searching datasheet for this 2.4GHz RF Transceiver. no luck, please help search for me. you maybe have another better link. i tried datasheet datasheet thread no luck, found nRF2402, pin not compatible. sigh.
P2402 is probably not the part number - it may be an option on the end of a part number as 2.402GHz is the first frequency in the 2.4GHz band.
The other two lines I am not sure if I can read accurately. The second line looks like "1112G" but the first two "1"'s look a bit curved, and the "G" could be a "C" or a "6" I guess.
The in the bottom line, it is hard to read the two characters after the "A". They could be combinations of "M", "N", "W" and "H".
Richard
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At a very rough guess,I'd say 1-2 watts.
VK6ZGO
Thanks, found it by browsing those old tech surplus store, apparently they're rated at 5 W.
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Any chance you can post a better picture or if not a better picture then an accurate reading of the characters on the chip?
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its very hard to see even with my best available (cheapo) loupe. this is my best shoot.
P2402
1112RG RK
AMN42095
the M could W or H. but i searched 42095 and 2402, something else came out. the product is China made RF Flash Remote Trigger. so i think the chip source maybe will come from China.
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Did you see this datasheet?
http://mdfly.com/newmdfly/products/RF2.4G/nRF24L01/nRF24L01.pdf (http://mdfly.com/newmdfly/products/RF2.4G/nRF24L01/nRF24L01.pdf)
The chip appears to be related to the 2402 chip. The package is the same, though you'd have to verify the pin compatibility. Not sure whether the specs are close enough for your purposes but worth a shot if you haven't already seen it.
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I will also throw my money in that it is a Nordic RF chip; maybe an obsolete component.
They make a whole range of flavors of these chips; what is the application of the board? Audio, toy, remote ... ?
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no its not nRF24L01 compatible. nRF24L01 is compatible with nRF2402. (nRF24L01 arduino kit is on the way). most datasheet i got have the clock on the right side of antenna, where this chip's clock in on the left. its a rf remote control thing.
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What is that device? For teletext or something?
Alexander.
(http://i.imgur.com/V6xgws.jpg) (http://imgur.com/V6xgw)
(http://i.imgur.com/pd39gs.jpg) (http://imgur.com/pd39g)
(http://i.imgur.com/yXvhPs.jpg) (http://imgur.com/yXvhP)
(http://i.imgur.com/hz4o1s.jpg) (http://imgur.com/hz4o1)
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What is that device? For teletext or something?
Alexander.
Its for data over the TV transmission for a PC.
http://www.wirelesscommunication.nl/reference/chaptr01/brdcsyst/datacast.htm (http://www.wirelesscommunication.nl/reference/chaptr01/brdcsyst/datacast.htm)
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Thanks you.
Alexander.
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Any info on the following (Matsushita?) (humidity?) sensor?
(http://i.imgur.com/lKfaVs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/lKfaV.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/9MVBls.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/9MVBl.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/ld4DQs.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ld4DQ.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/f15CIs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/f15CI.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/4H9Uhs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/4H9Uh.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/2MIYws.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/2MIYw.jpg)
Alexander.
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A web search gives http://detail.china.alibaba.com/buyer/offerdetail/440409632.html (http://detail.china.alibaba.com/buyer/offerdetail/440409632.html) as a result, which lists "????? KPC-K-4894V-0". The Google translation for that line if you do the whole page is "Computer pressure plate", so I guess some sort of (barometric?) pressure sensor.
Sticking the Chinese phrase into Google Translate on its own gives "High-voltage board computer" though, so my confidence in the machine translation is lower even than usual. That said, it does look as if it could plausibly be a pressure sensor - it'd explain the holes in the case at least.
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Hi,
Took apart a couple of old SCSI color scanners and found these interesting components at the business end of the scanner after all the mirrors. Lot of pins along each side. I'm wondering if we could use these somehow for a robotics project or some such? Problem is, I don't even know their name so can't google around looking for specs or what not.
Thanks in advance,
-Dad
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Problem is, I don't even know their name so can't google around looking for specs or what not.
This http://www.toshiba.com/taec/Catalog/Line.do?lineid=900041&familyid=900039 (http://www.toshiba.com/taec/Catalog/Line.do?lineid=900041&familyid=900039) or something similar.
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it's 256 bit incryption over infra red transmission decoder :D
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This is not so much as what is it, more does any one have some data on it. It is marked as an Oxygen probe the BNC has the legend probe master on it. I have contacted probe master but all they can tell me is that it was made for another company some years ago and they no longer have any data on it. It would appear to be a 10X probe with a gold plated banana plug on the end which has a spring loaded retracting sheath. I purchased it on ebay for a small price with the idea that it might be useful as the basis for a high voltage probe or such like at some point.
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I'm sure this will be dead easy for virtually everyone on here. Is this a diode? fuse? I've tested it for both resistance and in diode mode and all I get is 0L so I assume it's blown. Is that correct? If so, is there some way I can identify the specs on it so I can replace it?
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Glass signal diode
Does it have a line printed on it anywhere?
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Black in the middle assuming you mean along the axis. It's really hard to see using a 10X loupe. I may be wrong on the color.
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My guess is it is not a small signal diode.
If you can work out some of the circuit around the diode, we could then make a more educated guess.
If you look carefully, is there a gap inside the glass between the two electrodes, or is there definitely a thin slice of some silver looking metal between them?
If there is a gap, it is fine and it can go back in the circuit.
Richard
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I'm sure this will be dead easy for virtually everyone on here. Is this a diode? fuse? I've tested it for both resistance and in diode mode and all I get is 0L so I assume it's blown. Is that correct? If so, is there some way I can identify the specs on it so I can replace it?
KitchenAidPart.jpg ? Are you trying to make us guess?
I'll guess it is from a variable speed motor control circuit and it is a diac.
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@Rufus - no this isn't a game I just don't know what it is. It's from a KitchenAid mixer on a small PCB (the only PCB) that has about 7 resistors, two caps (~100 uF and 23uF) and this part. The other parts seem to be fine so I'd like to make sure this one is too before I starting looking elsewhere for a problem. The mixer was used 2 - 3 times before it broke. Unfortunately we didn't open the box and use the mixer until long past the warranty period.
@amspire - I don't see a gap or silver. All I see is black in the middle. Without a microscope I don't know that I can give a better description of what I'm seeing in the middle. I've tried it under a 10X hastings triple and that's the best I can come up with.
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Is it a thermal fuse?
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Can you draw the circuit? A photo of the board and the mixer internals would help. Rufus's suggestion of a diac is a good one, but that would mean there has to be a triac or thyristor.
I was thinking it may be a spark gap surge arrestor which may be directly across the motor. If it is, it will look like an open circuit, and it will be fine as long as the glass is not broken, and it can go either way - it would not be polarized.
I assume the mixer somehow can vary the motor speed. It could use different resistors, or capacitors to affect the speed, or it could be there is more circuitry you cannot see - perhaps built into the actual speed control switch or knob.
Also, how has it failed?
Richard
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This is not so much as what is it, more does any one have some data on it. It is marked as an Oxygen probe the BNC has the legend probe master on it. I have contacted probe master but all they can tell me is that it was made for another company some years ago and they no longer have any data on it. It would appear to be a 10X probe with a gold plated banana plug on the end which has a spring loaded retracting sheath. I purchased it on ebay for a small price with the idea that it might be useful as the basis for a high voltage probe or such like at some point.
That is an oxygen sensor, used to measure the concentration of oxygen in the air supplied to the sensor. Different to the oxygen sensor in your car in that this one generates a millivolt signal ( into a really high impedance, thus the 10x probe to use with a 1M input voltmeter) at ambient temperature, and giving an absolute reading of concentration. If it has been opened for a while it will have aged to near uselessness. It is basically a metal air battery, with some added temperature compensation built in to it that works at the correct load resistance.
Using the connector end to make a high voltage probe is good, just make sure the resistors you use to make the high voltage divider input side are rated for the voltage you will apply to them, and are mounted on a board that is totally clean, no solder residue at all. Preferable is to solder them together and clean before sliding them into a PTFE tube and filling it with an insulating epoxy to provide insulation.
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Thanks for that SeanB. I had sort of guessed that it could be something like that But when I put the meter on it I just got a 9.13mohm reading from the gold plug to the center pin of the bnc it appears as OC from the gold plug to the bnc outer. The intention is to make a thousand times probe with an attenuation network. But before I do that I will see if it will respond to pure oxygen from my cutting torch cylinder.
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It should generate a few millivolts if it is working, if exposed to atmosphere. T%hey are really expensive sensors when new, but have a very limited life once opened. 3 to 6 months is typical, and they cost upwards of $ 100 each. I did use one once, second hand, but did not buy a spare probe once I found out the price. Luckily the probe it came with was still hermetically sealed in a packet. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro-galvanic_fuel_cell (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro-galvanic_fuel_cell) for more about the cell construction.
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@amspire - What program can I use to make the schematic? Preferably simple and for the Mac, otherwise Linux or Windows is fine.
And yes I forgot the board does have a triac. I removed it a while ago and forgot all about it when I made my original post.
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If it has a triac it most likely is a diac. Open circuit ( or pretty close to it) until you reach the breakdown voltage of around 30-40V when it switches on and has a low forward drop of a few volts across it, until the current drops below the holding current. Used as a trigger to do phase control for AC applications like motor speed controls or light dimmers.
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Hi seanB I tried the probe on a meter it reads 1 to 1.4 mV and 1mV on the scope with a lot of noise from the mains etc, i guess the end is not screened, I will see what happens with pure oxygen. I only paid a few pence for it.
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Probably still working, the meter normally has a low pass filter on the input, as the time constant on these sensors is in the minute range. Try using a 1uF polypropylene or mylar unit across the unit when testing it to remove mains hum. Might take a few seconds for readings to stabilise after a step change.
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Thanks SeanB I will try that, Not sure what I will do with an oxygen probe at the end of the day though I am not into diving much to claustrophobic for me.
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@SeanB - How would I test the triac and diac?
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@amspire - The mixer will not turn on. Dead as a doornail.
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Thanks SeanB I will try that, Not sure what I will do with an oxygen probe at the end of the day though I am not into diving much to claustrophobic for me.
Looking again, if it does not have anything under the heatshrink other than a connection or a resistor then it probably is an adapter for a probe, not the actual probe itself. Most would give a few hundred millivolts when working, so probably it is just the adaptor kit, so cut up for parts.
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@SeanB - How would I test the triac and diac?
Simplest test is by substitution. Before that check if the motor actually works, easy to do by shorting across the 3 pins of the triac, as you have removed the diac. If the motor runs at full speed you need a new triac and diac, the triac does need to be the same type, but the diac is pretty much interchangeable with any other diac, as they generally only have a single application. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC) for a little more.
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Here's the schematic. I tried running the motor and either I didn't hook things back up right or the motor doesn't appear to be working. I'm in the process of taking it apart to dig a little deeper.
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Your schematic does have a Triac, so that mystery part is probably a diac. The diac will look like an open circuit till you put its breakdown voltage across it. Could be something like 30V. It will then turn on and drop down to less then a volt until you disconnect it from the current.
There is a good chance it is OK. I would replace it in the circuit for now.
First thing is if you have the model with the circuit breaker, check that the circuit breaker is not open circuit. If it is, there should be a way to reset it.
Check the Triac for shorts or a cracked case. If it is not shorted, then there is a pretty good chance it is OK.
See if you can get any resistance in the motor winding as you turn the shaft. It could have a faulty brush or the winding has gone open circuit.
If you replace the motor with an old incandescent light bulb (40W or 60W would be good), you should be able to vary the brightness with the speed controller. If that works, then the problem is the motor. If it doesn't work, then the problem is on the PCB or the speed control.
Richard.
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Problem solved. No idea what I did that actually fixed it but it runs again. Only idea I have is that the brushes were in wrong. Need to adjust it so it runs at the right speeds but it does turn on. Thanks for all the help.
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I pulled this IC from a Sony PlayStation 3 Slim power supply (EADP-200DP). I've googled around and checked Octopart and can't find anything of note for it.
Here are the markings:
F --- Fairchild Semiconductor??
YAABE --- pretty sure this is a manufacturing code of some sort since the same chip on another power supply is YAPAA
DNP011 --- Figured this was the part number but can't find anything. I've tried DNPO11, DNP011, and DNPQ11 (I tried Q before I looked at it under magnification.
NYE -- Manufacturer?
I figured this would be a common part, since it's just a basic SMPS, but I guess not, or I don't know how to look for it properly. Any help would be appreciated.
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I can't seem to find a datasheet for it either :-\ however it seems to come from Fairchild as I stumbled across this certificate of compliance for it.
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/coc/DN/DNP011.pdf (http://www.fairchildsemi.com/coc/DN/DNP011.pdf)
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Well that's a start. Maybe my best bet is to email Fairchild Semiconductor and ask them where I can buy them from.
Edit: It looks as if the part has been EOL'd and is being replaced by DNP013. Doesn't really matter much because I can't find anything regarding that chip either.
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I think it is one of two things, and you can probably work out which one it is from the circuit.
As a guess, it is either an optocoupler device, or a MOSFET in a 8 pin DIP package. I don't think it is a regulator IC.
If it is an optocoupler then the two leads to the LED part will go to the secondary side of the transformer. Two or 3 wires from the other side of the optocoupler will go to the circuitry connected to the primary/mains side of the transformer.
If it is a mosfet, it will probably have pins shorted, and one pin will be connected to an output of the regulator IC. Another pin may go directly to a transformer winding.
Richard
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My first guess would be opto-coupler, too. These are usually easy to recognize because the circuit around it is usually isolated (no copper going from one side of the opto to the other). I wouldn't discard the regulator option either. That, and the MOSFET, is about all the 'ICs' you would expect in a cheap SMPS. Probably no active PFC at this power level. I guess the power supply could have an EEPROM to prevent you from using third-party power supplies, but a dead EEPROM shouldn't prevent the power supply from working.
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I assume if I posted some high resolution photos of both sides of the PCB one of you may be able to deduce the type of IC? (ie MOSFET or Optocoupler)
I'll see if I can figure it out based on the description by amspire, but some validation might be nice.
edit: Here are the photos:
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And the last photo:
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Someone actually providing useful, sharp pictures when requested, that's a welcome change ;). Looks like I was wrong about it not having active PFC, but this component is not involved in that circuit.
My guess is that it's indeed a MOSFET, probably responsible for generating the pulses for the standby circuit (small transformer). Most of the pins appear to be connected together, and it's on the primary side. Definitely no opto, these are in DIP-4 packages placed across the isolation barrier (thick white line on bottom silkscreen).
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With the white paint, it is hard to see how the pins are connected on the bottom of the 8 pin chip. If 4 are shorted together on one side, and three on the other side with one pin that is on its own, then it looks like a mosfet. The 4 shorted pins will be the drain, the 3 shorted pins the source, and the single pin the gate.
Definitely not an optocoupler - all the 4 pin chips are the optocouplers.
Richard
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My guess it's a single-chip regulator for the standby power supply (together with the small transformer).
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I ohmed out the leads on the chips and found the following. The top 4 pins are all independent. The 3 on the bottom left are all tied together and the one on the bottom right is independent. I'll try to post a photo later indicating where the pins connect to.
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anyone got an idea what these are for ?
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Hi siliconmix :)
I think this are fiber optic cables with ST-style connectors.
They are used to connect gadgets to fiber optic network (Duplex style maybe).
They go into something like this
(http://www.cablesdirect.com/prodimages/C5B-2ST_LR.jpg)
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thank you jad.i bought them mixed lot in an auction didn't have a clue what they where for .are they expensive ?
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You can search digi-key for "CABLE ASSEM FIBER ST-ST".
That should give you an idea about their cost.
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Hello Guys i have this 3 components in the TO-220 package that i can’t find and don’t know what they are for so i can’t find equivalent parts maybe there is someone that can help me with this.
I will right down the numbers and letters in the parts in the order that they appear here it goes…
This one I know that is the brand “International Rectifier”
9732
IR 250k
31 49
Next One
014
M27AB
31045
Last One
ON
7446
CQ236
AKA
They all are in the TO-220 package
Hope there is some one that can help me with this.
Kind Regards
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Can anyone identify this Analog Devices chip. It is possibly a regulator or amplifier.
I've had no joy searching the data sheets.
Cheers,
Phil
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http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/ADP3333.pdf (http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/ADP3333.pdf)
It is a low drop-out 3.15V 300mA regulator. The exact part number is ADP3333ARMZ-3.15R7
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Cheers Amspire,
Many thanks.
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This is kind of a reverse 'whats this' question. More like a what is.
I am looking for a toggle switch like an on-off or on-off-on that can be reset electronically.
E.g. if left in an on position it can be reset remotely so it would have some internal mechanism to flip the switch. It may be something I have to devise myself but not sure at this stage.
Anyone come across something like it?
Thanks,
JAson
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I have seen these types of switch in military avionics when I was in the airforce. I couldn't hazard a guess at what one would cost (think thousands). You might be able to knock something up with relays? consider using a bistable relay?
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I do have the feeling that if I found them available for purchase I would be thinking of making them myself :) I am just worried about the size of something I could do vs something that is manufactured.
There could be a few side by side. It is a 'very' nice to have rather than mandatory but I would like to get it going, depending on the cost of course!
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There are things like breakers with a shunt trip coil that allows the breaker to be turned off with a signal through the coil.
Breakers come in all sizes, so I would guess there are some small, switch-like breakers with the shunt trip feature. RCD (Earth leakage protection breakers) are shunt trip breakers with the extra current leakage detector that trips the shunt coil.
Not sure how you find very small ones though. The industry calls the large devices that can fit on a DIN rail "Miniature circuit breakers", so I hate to think what they would call something much smaller.
Richard.
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You want a momentary action switch and a bistable relay with 2 coils. One coil is powered by the switch, and the other coil is pulsed to switch the relay off. The contacts of the relay then are used as you need.
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(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431768_10150703120822534_639807533_11637464_1692273066_n.jpg)
What the hell is this? It's about the size of a flash drive.
I think the logo is "Harris".
The bottom side of the PCB is not populated. It has text in copper that reads:
1989 15-100001 C
CM1
My guess is that it's some sort of ID tag with a code stored on this mystery IC. It was my father's, but he passed away so I can't ask him.
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I found this Diode in a load of parts that I purchased many years ago it is some form of Diode but I cannot find any data on it.
The legend reads. CV7038 KB/SB
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Point contact diode, germanium. Normally used as a signal diode. This is a GTE replacement part, but I no longer have a GTE catalogue. I would guess 30PIV at 10mA, common for most of the germanium diodes.
Google suggests it is a stud rectifier of around 400mA at 200PIV, but in this case i think it is wrong.
5961-99-037-2038 5961990372038 990372038 3005-20330 300520330 B32461 B32461 CV7038 CV7038 CV7038/GJ3M CV7038GJ3M GJ3M GJ3M K1007-CV7038 K1007CV7038 N84253A1 N84253A1
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Point contact diode, germanium. Normally used as a signal diode. This is a GTE replacement part, but I no longer have a GTE catalogue. I would guess 30PIV at 10mA, common for most of the germanium diodes.
I doubt 10mA point contact diodes were packaged in something with threaded studs for terminals.
I see CV7038 described as rectifier with GJ3M given as a substitute. I also found a 1972 catalogue page listing GJ3M as a 200v 400mA (800mA when heatsinked) germanium junction stud mounted half wave rectifier.
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Part number is not consistent with the picture in post. Thus i went on the signal diode route, most likely a Ge one ( age) and most of these were rated for a pretty low voltage and low current. Some were used as multipliers, and some had an impressive ( for the time) frequency range and power output.
I still have a collection of Ge PNP transistors, they have come in handy at times.
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Greetings EEVBees:
--In this case we have no device, only the ghost of a departed device. Please see attached picture(s) of the FSC121SOF Fan Speed Control for a Vornado fan, I am trying to fix for a friend. The solder side of the board had only one SMD component, which apparently exploded. An honorary Deerstalker hat will be awarded to anyone who can solve this one
"It is quite a three pipe problem, and I beg that you won't speak to me for fifty minutes."
Sherlock Holmes 1854 -
Best Regards
Clear Ether
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--In this case we have no device, only the ghost of a departed device.
Looks like it was just a necked down track designed to act as a fuse.
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--In this case we have no device, only the ghost of a departed device.
Looks like it was just a necked down track designed to act as a fuse.
Agreed. Probably the triac (or whatever it is) has shorted. The marks on the PCB track side are the ghost of the way the track blew, not the ghost of a SMD device.
Richard.
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Seeing as the board only has 2 wires the only reason for the track to flash and burn is if the motor has developed a short circuit in the windings. You will probably find on removing the triac that it is split into 2 parts, one being the plastic top with 2 leads and the other being the tab. Check the motor for that crispy beyond belief smell, or use a 100W incandescent light bulb to do power limiting and power it up.
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--Dear All:
--Thanks for all your advice. I checked the motor. Indeed, it is burned up. Next time I will know to check, before worrying about the small stuff.
"When people thought the Earth was flat, they were wrong. When people thought the Earth was spherical they were wrong. But if you think that thinking the Earth is spherical is just as wrong as thinking the Earth is flat, then your view is wronger than both of them put together."
Isaac Asimov 1920 - 1992
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I am doing some repairs of similar speed controllers, but these are DC motors, that run on 200VDC. Same simple triac control but with a very failure prone bridge rectifier on the output side. New Triacs where needed, new bridge rectifiers ( 8A 600V instead of the 4 cheap and seriously overrun 1N4004 diodes it had) and new VDR's on input and output side. Hope they hold up better, even with the crappy PCB's it has. I just have to repair them cheaper than a new board from China costs. i am hoping to repair to better than original so they will not fail. I might make retrofit modules from light dimmers and a separate bridge rectifier if needed, as they will definitely last longer then. Room enough to fit in the case anyway.
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Greetings EEVBees:
--I got such good help for dummies on the last one, that I have decided to try one more. See the attached picture of the end of my new Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX37 Camera. The jack at the left is for 5 Volt DC power. I already have a good power supply, but I need the plug to fit that jack. Does anybody happen to know what the name of the jack is, and/or where I can get one. Honorary Calabash pipe to be awarded. Rufus was awarded the Honorary Deerstalker hat in our last contest.
“Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."
W. C. Fields (William Claude Dunkenfield) 1880 - 1946
Best Regards
Clear Ether
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It is what could be laughingly called "Propietary" designed by Painosonic plug. If you can find a Panasonic dealer who actually repairs these things you probably will be able to order the cable as a spare part through them ( likely to be expensive though, nice equipment, spares are somewhat available but pricey) with the plug moulded on the end.
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Point and shoot cameras are THE WORST. Every manufacturer has to have their own dicky proprietary cable for everything. What's wrong with mini or micro USB? "Oh we want to put video out in the same jack". Fine, you know HTC managed to make a proprietary port for their smartphones that had audio in/out as well as USB, yet you could still plug in a normal mini-usb cable! Genius!
Your best bet is to just buy an adapter off ebay, and steal the cable if the supply is rubbish.
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I have a Canon camera with a power input using a tiny coaxial plug. Canon wants an arm and a leg ( and assorted other body parts as well) for the power adaptor. Went down to One Hung Low Mall ( actually Wan Dong Wholesalers) and bought a $2 USB multipart charger. Has a mains to 5V charger ( real cheap n nasty, but works well enough to supply 5V rail up to 100mA), a 12V car adaptor and a plug with 10 different sockets on it. One fits camera, and the car adaptor was modified ( shunted a resistor in feedback loop to chip inside) to give 3.3V for the camera. Now I can use the camera for long periods, without the hassle of replacing the batteries every few minutes.
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Maybe he wants to know what a spectrum analyzer is? The latter is an oscilloscope that displays across the screen all the frequencies within its design range. It shows which radio signals are present at what place in the spectrum (hence the name) and at what strength. Usually they can be tuned and narrowed down in width (frequency) so as to pick out and magnify one signal to see what the output of a device looks like and whether it is putting out garbage, etc.
They work by having an oscillator that sweeps across the range in the manner of a radio receiver whose tuning knob is being whirled back and forth so quickly that, through the persistance of the 'scope tube and your eyes*, you can see everything in the range covered. They are expensive and the higher they go, the more costly they are. There have been some reasonable 'scope probes made that, with a 'scope give a miniature poorman's version.
Basically it's for radio work, but it could also apply to audio (it used to be hard to build an audio receiver, but probably not now). Usually you just look at the screen and see what there is to be seen, but I imagine nowadays there is all kinds of calculating power available to be applied to the signals and the prices would be astronomical.
Of course if you really want to know the truth of the matter, you would just read where else? (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectrum_analyzer).
----
*I suppose they could digitize and store it all so that persistance is not a factor. The 'scope would just play it back and wouldn't have to be very fast.
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Anyone have any idea what this E1271 diode is?
If you have a lot of these diodes, I wouldn't toss them. They might become your general-purpose diode. I got a similar bunch years ago.
I put a microammeter in series with a power supply hooked up in the reverse direction and ran the voltage up until the needle started to rise (not too much; if the diode shorts, the meter is toast!). That (minus a little safety factor) became the PIV. Then I ran some current through it until it got hot to the touch and that became the max current. No matter what they were originally designed for, they should work OK for low-level power supplies, etc.
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Can any one tell me please what the blue rectangle item is on this RS brand 100X oscilloscope probe whatever it is I cannot get any sort of reading on my dvm. The probe will not work with any scope so I disassembled it after finding no continuity on it and this item that is paralleled with a capacitor formed by inserting a wire into a brass tube with a Teflon sleeve.
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Probably a 10M resistor, and it is open circuit, so that is why you get no reading. The capacitor is a shunt to compensate for the cable capacitance. You will probably find if you look at it with a magnifier that either it is cracked at one end or one lead is broken. Broken lead can be repaired, but if it is cracked you need a new resistor. Likely to be cheaper to replace the probe, or use a regular 0.3W metal film unit and accept the probe will be less accurate and will only be usable up to 100V peak.
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Thank you SeanB for that I sort of figured it must be a resistor as that is the only way it would work but it has no markings and it is in series with a 1 meg resistor at the tip of the probe and tere is another net work in the BNC end along with the trimmer. I cannot see any cracks but there could be one under the blue film at the end I can see the metal film comeing out from under the blue one.
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The picture is too blurry to see properly. If it is a 100x probe and the 1meg resistor is across the scope input, the blue film resistor may be up around 40 to 50 megohm and this is beyond some multimeters ability to measure. That could easily be a 2.5KV resistor, and around 40meg to 100meg would be about right for that voltage.
To check, put a multimeter across the 1meg resistor and apply 10V or so from the tip to the far end of the 1meg resistor. Are you getting a voltage on the multimeter? Keep in mind that the multimeter input resistance will change the voltage a little.
Richard.
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I decided to check it with my insulation tester and at 100 volts it measures 98 Meg ohms so I guess this probe will not work on my signal generator which out puts less than a volt. I need to find a high voltage 1Khz square wave signal to set it up, any one any ideas.
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I used a 100x probe at work for quite some time,years ago,but I can't remember how I adjusted it.
I was almost certainly using a 2 channel analog Tek which probably gave access to the output of one of the vertical channels,so I might have used both amps in cascade to get enough gain.
The display would still have been "furry",but it would have done the job.
Another idea would be to make a valve (tube) multivibrator using a couple of 12AT7s,run off a 100V dc supply.
If I remember correctly,the ones I made when first playing around with a 'scope supplied fairly reasonable waveforms.
The old 545 'scopes had a calibration signal which could be switched as high as 100V,so if you could find a 545
enthusiast,you'd be good to go!
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I have a circuit for a valve square wave generator I guess its time to build it, the test probe came with a National scope I got off Ebay the test signal on the scope only outputs at 0.1 volt square wave which is its design voltage. Most likely why it was sold was the person could not get the scope to work with that probe, the strange thing about the scope is it's has tree traces all select-able on the switches.
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Trying to identify a part, couldn't find it using Google. It is marked 1S15, could be IS15, TO-92 type package. It could be quite old, probably 1980's, any clues anybody ?
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1S Smells like diode, does it have 2 or 3 pins (connected)?
Any clue about manufacturer?
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1S15 could be a Sony part.
I vaguely remember the number from the time I was fixing a lot of stuff from that manufacturer.
-
I checked Google, it lists a 1S15 device but it is an axial packaged diode with two leads.
The 1S15 part I have has three legs, the Sony reference may be interesting.
There are no other markings on the device
Edit:
It measures like an NPN transistor so I'll proceed from there and run some more tests.
Thanks everyone for your help
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I know it's a long way down the track since the last posting,but it occurs to me that the "S" may be an incomplete "8",in which case,your device may be a 2SC1815,which is a common type in a lot of Japanese equipment.
JEDEC markings often leave the "2SC" part off.
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anyone know whats this is?
Mislabeled digikey packet, was supposed to be a DO-15 package TVS diode.
It does look kinda like a diode, and has a metal top.
I don't really want to remove it from the pack until i know if digikey want it back
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/general-chat/what%27s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=25375)
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anyone know whats this is?
Looks like a Schurter PTC fuse.
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i think you might be right. Digikey said they dont want it back so i took it out and had a look.
It's 1.5ohms in either direction, which fits your idea of a PTC fuse.
(http://psi.abcom.co.nz/unknown.jpg)
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Hi!
Please... does anyone know what this little piece is? It's part of a 230v -> 120v stepdown tx circuit. The part is circled in red in the following pics:
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I would guess it is a NTC thermistor, probably there to shut down the unit when the triac gets too hot.
Basically it is a near open circuit until it reaches a preset temperature, where it then drops to around 100R or so in resistance, and then the voltage across the diac is too low for it to trigger the triac into conduction.
At least is is self resetting, unlike a thermal fuse, though operating the device in the region where this protection is operating is not good.
-
Thanks!
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SeanB is right.
(Not so) useless trivia: Another use for NTC resistors is for ring core transformers. You put them in series with the primary side as a cheap way to limit the current spike that these transformers will draw when powered on. This current spike can otherwise make the circuit breaker trip.
NTC means negative temperature coefficient, so the resistance will go down as the resistor gets hotter. When used with a ring core transformer, the resistor value is chosen so that the resistor heats up and goes down to near zero resistance within a second.
-
NTC's are used in SMPS input stages as well, to reduce inrush current. I have used them on incandescent lamps as a life extender, as the lamp will generally last thousands of hours, as the most stress occurs during switch on, and the added resistance reduces this until the filament is so weak that it blows during use. I had to do this on an old plate maker that used 40 40W golfball lamps as a light source, that had a switch on surge that would trip the 30A mains breaker 50m away down the corridor. I could not find a NTC that would handle the load ( and this was in the 1970's when I was a teenager) so used a slow start circuit which had a triac controlled by a unijunction transistor (now near impossible to get) and a few other components to provide a slow charge ( 1 second from zero to full brightness) and a non isolated supply for the circuit.
I did a similar thing for my variac, it has a very large core and a correspondingly annoying switch on surge.
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Hi
This resistor is across the mains input of a device. Looks like a 1M to me, but I'd like to be sure - not familiar with the red band.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/general-chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=27577)
I'm going to replace it along with the dodgy looking cap...
Cheers
John
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It looks like a 1M 1% resistor. The red band means 50ppm/C stability.
If you replace the capacitor, make sure it is a 250V AC rated Class Y2 capacitor.
-
Note that if the resistor is ok do not replace it, as you need to use a 1W metal film resistor to get a voltage rating that will handle mains voltage. Those RIFA capacitors do craze as they get old, but it is mostly cosmetic. Stress from the different expansion rates of the housing and the epoxy encapulant. It just shows that they did bond really well, otherwise there would be a non visible shear along the bond line.
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Hi,
What are this stuff??? I searched all over the internet and couldn't find a thing about them, not even a picture!
I got them from the local store, the owner gave me a bunch of them for free.
He said he didn't know what they are (nobody was buying them ;D) so he was giving them away with every order.
My best guess would be colour sensors. Could they simply be LEDs ?
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They are two LED bar graph displays.
The LED connections are Pins 6(anode) to 1, and pins 3(anode) to 4. The middle pin is not used. Pin 1 will have a little chamfer on the corner of the case.
About 2.5mCd brightness at 10mA forward current.
Richard
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Thank you Richard
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Bridge rectifiers. Can I take 2 and put them in parallel or series for better results? What if I make one that has 2 diodes per leg or side? (8 total) Would this be better. I know about using a capacitor in parallel with bc. I have a setup with no cap with input voltage of 120vac but 70vdc out. Does this mean the bc are bad or do you need the caps to make them work?
Thanks in advance for your help.
hydroman1976@gmail.com
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If you put two bridge rectifiers in parallel you can double the current, in series you won't do anything but lose voltage drop over two of the diodes (since it's already DC the other two won't do anything anyway).
-
Bit of a waste of time,though,it your original AC source can't provide double the current.
In any case,it would be better just to buy a higher rated bridge.
-
If you put two rectifiers in parallel, won't the load be lopsided between the two because of a slight voltage drop variation?
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Nitro is right. The forward voltage drop of a diode has a negative temperature coefficient. Slight differences in paralleled diodes will cause more current to flow in one vs the other. The increase in current in that diode with higher current accelerates it's temperature rise which diverts even more current. In the end most of the current will be flowing through one diode. Paralleling diodes won't buy you anything.
Walt
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Next up fellas..
I found these in the loft today, can't seem to find out what they are from the numbers on them, any ideas please?
Numbers around the top rim of one of them are 771139 and SGS87305
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v146/orbiter/IMAG0322-1.jpg)
Thank you
orb
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SGS Sociedad Generale Semiconduttori ... Successor to ATES ( Aquila Tubi e Semiconduttori )
now better known as STmicroelectronics
this is a very old part. i couldn't find anything in the archives. probably a custom job.... or could be a prototype .
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SGS Sociedad Generale Semiconduttori ... Successor to ATES ( Aquila Tubi e Semiconduttori )
now better known as STmicroelectronics
this is a very old part. i couldn't find anything in the archives. probably a custom job.... or could be a prototype .
Ok thanks mate. I can confirm that it's really old, its been stuck up in the loft for at least 20 years :o
These were in a box of parts I'd bought from a place called Greenweld electronics. I think the same company still exists actually (greenweld.co.uk) however their components range has almost disappeared compared to what I seem to remember them having.
Cheers
orb
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It could be equivalent to a LM305 regulator. If you have a few it might be worth running some checks and comparing with this data sheet
http://www.ti.com/general/docs/lit/getliterature.tsp?genericPartNumber=lm305&fileType=pdf (http://www.ti.com/general/docs/lit/getliterature.tsp?genericPartNumber=lm305&fileType=pdf)
First number is probably date code for 1977
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It could be equivalent to a LM305 regulator. If you have a few it might be worth running some checks and comparing with this data sheet
http://www.ti.com/general/docs/lit/getliterature.tsp?genericPartNumber=lm305&fileType=pdf (http://www.ti.com/general/docs/lit/getliterature.tsp?genericPartNumber=lm305&fileType=pdf)
First number is probably date code for 1977
Ah ok, that gives me something to go on. I'll run a few tests on them and see how they compare.
Thanks mate
orb
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mmm. don't think so. many chips were available in to-100 package in that timeperiod.
SGS never made LMxxx style parts. apart from the LM741. they didn't do 709 and no regulators. they had their own stuff : L4905 L200 etc ... and those came later.
it may even be a matched pair or simply the long-tail of an opamp ...
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It is the SGS equivalent of the Fairchild uA711 Dual 40nS comparator. Made in 1973 from the date stamp, but from memory, the design dates back to the 60's.
This is a very dated component, and you probably wouldn't want to use it in a new design. Unlike modern comparators, it requires a positive supply (usually 12V), a negative supply (usually -6V) and a ground rail. The three rail opamps and comparators tended to be very easy to accidentally blow.
Richard
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Can anyone enlight me what is this DIP device?
I guess it is a solar cell. I can measure 200mV from the bottom-left pin vs any opposite pin, but why a solar cell need so many leads?
Thanks
-
i would imagine to keep the esr nice and low, those puny panels generally have esr's higher than alkalines on there own, so a number of them in parrellel would drastically help lower that,
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Linear photodiode array. Multiple photodiodes so that you can focus an image on them and use in a line scanner. Probably used in an older shape sensing detector. or as a detector for a low light diffraction grating
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Linear photodiode array. Multiple photodiodes so that you can focus an image on them and use in a line scanner. Probably used in an older shape sensing detector. or as a detector for a low light diffraction grating
Looks interesting, Thanks.
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Can anyone shed any light on this monochrome imaging sensor? It's Hitachi HE98268, from the 1980s. A datasheet would be awesome to find! 8)
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I have couple of 128x64 chip on glass LCD screens. It uses a 30x0.5mm FFC/FPC connector. My first guess was something like the SPLC501C COGs.
e.g. http://www.newhavendisplay.com/nhdc12864mznswbtw-p-664.html (http://www.newhavendisplay.com/nhdc12864mznswbtw-p-664.html)
The pinout differs.
The only markings:
WD-G1206VC-7WNNa
02064611AD
14C23/03
It's probably something custom and I won;t find anything, but I had to ask.
(http://i.imgur.com/108cRs.jpg[img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/eezav.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/eezavs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/108cR.jpg)
Alexander.
-
Hi,
Today while trying to clone my navigation HDD to a SSD from NTG2.5 Mercedes COMAND unit, I've managed to break the connector that goes to the motherboard when I've removed the original drive.
Does anybody have a clue on what type of connector is this?
I've searched the web for hours and didn't find anything. I've found something that looks almost the same but they have non-symmetric keys to match the male-female, but this one does not have any key. The key is that you can mount the whole device in a single way.
I've attached pictures with it broken and "mounted".
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Please help me identify this component. Thanks.............
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Please help me identify this component. Thanks.............
Looks to me like an inductor ... 47mH perhaps. Grab a multimeter and test it and you'll know for sure.
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Can anyone identify the smd components in the middle here. They're in parallel with a solenoid (one per solenoid) and have short circuited.
Also what is that package called?
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Diodes, the package is MELF. You can use any 1A diode like a 1N4004 in replacement, or a surface mount one rated at least for 1A and with a reverse voltage at least double the voltage of the power rail.
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Any one have an idea as to what this is, it's rated as 50 ohms and looks like a BNC but it is much larger than a standard BNC socket.
It is slightly smaller than the C connector oat only 13.6 mm dia. It is silver plated, I have looked on line and cant find anything like it.
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Any one have an idea as to what this is, it's rated as 50 ohms and looks like a BNC but it is much larger than a standard BNC socket.
It is slightly smaller than the C connector oat only 13.6 mm dia. It is silver plated, I have looked on line and cant find anything like it.
It looks a lot like it is to an N connector, what BNC is to TNC.
That is, similar, but quick-connect instead of threaded.
I know there are some quick-connect versions of the N connector, but my google-fuu isn't with me today, so couldn't find anything that matches exactly.
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Diodes, the package is MELF. You can use any 1A diode like a 1N4004 in replacement, or a surface mount one rated at least for 1A and with a reverse voltage at least double the voltage of the power rail.
It turns out they were MOV's but serving the same purpose. I replaced them all with diodes. I've since found out people replace them with 1N4148's but they're surely under spec'd?
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My turn!
Looks like a fuse holder (notice the amp's labeling), since it is part of a mains extension, but the thing that i thought were the screw to open the compartment is glued and doesn't comes off ??? ... Also it has some kind of button that doesn't do anything when pressed. This "button" thing don't latches, it's more like a tactile switch.
Is it some sort of circuit breaker?
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My turn!
Looks like a fuse holder (notice the amp's labeling), since it is part of a mains extension, but the thing that i thought were the screw to open the compartment is glued and doesn't comes off ??? ... Also it has some kind of button that doesn't do anything when pressed. This "button" thing don't latches, it's more like a tactile switch.
Is it some sort of circuit breaker?
I'd be surprised if it was not a circuit breaker. The over current condition will trip a latching relay, interrupting connection until reset. I'd imagine it should be put in as a module and not soldered on to as such, but I haven't a clue what electrical codes are anywhere.
Alexander.
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I'd be surprised if it was not a circuit breaker. The over current condition will trip a latching relay, interrupting connection until reset. I'd imagine it should be put in as a module and not soldered on to as such, but I haven't a clue what electrical codes are anywhere.
Alexander.
It's a chinese mains extension... No surprises it's mounted like that, but I think this circuit breaker is a nice touch to a mains extension.
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Thermal circuit breaker. Inside is a bimetal strip that carries the current, and when it gets hot from current it eventually moves enough to overcome the latch holding it closed on the other contact, and moves to the open position. When it cools it stays open until the button is pressed which pushes it back past the latch to closed again. If they are used a lot ( or with time and many near trip cycles) they have a nasty tendency to arc at the contacts when loaded.
-
Thermal trip. The button feels like it does nothing most of the time but when it trips it pops out further, you will then find when you push it that it has some resistance and most likely feel or hear a click when pushed all the way in.
-
What is the little black device? I originally thought a cap but I'm not sure.
-
What is the little black device? I originally thought a cap but I'm not sure.
... A theme!
A quick search for AUPO A4-F lead me to the following:
(http://imgen.b2b.makepolo.com/images/en/formal/product/product-pic-2/product-4/pic-64/big_4642464.jpg#S23SSmTB)
(cached result linked as main page seems to not load:)
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://www.aupo.com.hk/egproduct/af.htm&hl=en&prmd=imvns&strip=1 (http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://www.aupo.com.hk/egproduct/af.htm&hl=en&prmd=imvns&strip=1)
It appears to be a thermal cutoff protection device (aka thermal fuse?) @ 126±2C fusing off, 107C holding temp
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Help getting some data for this chip ATMLU020-16B. The supplier told me that’s an ATMEL 24c16, is this ok?
Thanks in advance.
Sotiris.
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An easy one, hopefully.
(http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p604/superdjc/IMAG0767.jpg)
The orange blobs at the front. They're capacitors, but what sort?
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Tantalums.
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This is on the PCB of my FLUKE 75 multimeter (which is currently not displaying everything it should).
Is it a cap?
Should that split/crack be there?
What do those numbers mean?
I like this meter and I'd like to revive it but I'm running out of parts to replace. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
-M
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That crack should not be there. Looks like a varistor. Maybe if you provide a full view photo....
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I would say it is a spark gap.
They used them on the socket board for the CRT on a lot of colour TVs.
The first time I saw them,I thought they were faulty capacitors.
-
Spark gap. It should basically measure as open circuit till the voltage across it reaches betwwen 1-2 kilovolts where it breaks down.
-
Anybody happen to know this connector?
Only have this photo, so cannot measure the thing, but my guess its a 2.5mm or 2.54mm pitch.
-
Next up fellas..
I found these in the loft today, can't seem to find out what they are from the numbers on them, any ideas please?
Numbers around the top rim of one of them are 771139 and SGS87305
Thank you
orb
Looks like an equivelent to a LM305 regulator here is a pic of one here http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/ProductImages/ics_VoltageRegulator/NSC%20IC%20LM305H.JPG (http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/ProductImages/ics_VoltageRegulator/NSC%20IC%20LM305H.JPG) they were quite commonly used in arcade machies power regulator supplys in the late 70's early 80's.
Edit Just noticed it has already been answered... Fail on my part.
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Anyone have any idea about this connector?
its a ZIF type female for a 5 pin, single sided cable. specifically fits the li-ion battery connector for ipod video / classics. real small pin spacing; maybe 0.5mm
i would love a part number, or even a good starting point for finding a reasonable match.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/iPod-Video-5th-Gen-Logic-Board-Battery-Connector-/00/s/NjAwWDY2OA==/$(KGrHqJ,!ooFBsb45j+SBQiVk40qqw~~60_12.JPG)
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ifixit carry basic ipod spares, doesn't look like they carry that connector, so perhaps send them an email
http://www.ifixit.com (http://www.ifixit.com)
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i need a source for 500-1000, at least.
other-wise ill have to look into a different approache
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OK , I was thinking 1 off, so try http://www.toby.co.uk/index.aspx, (http://www.toby.co.uk/index.aspx,) they have a big range of connectors and you can email them the connector picture etc and they will try to find it for you.
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anyone have any suggestions on terms and categories to start looking for something like this?
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Does anyone know what the connectors on the ends of this cable are called?
http://phenoptix.co.uk/products/adafruit_male_female_jumper_150mm (http://phenoptix.co.uk/products/adafruit_male_female_jumper_150mm)
If so, can these connectors be purchased and used on their own?
-
The female one is usually a Dupont connector(as the chinese call it) while the male one ... is also dupont
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The female one is usually a Dupont connector(as the chinese call it) while the male one ... is also dupont
I've heard the Dupont name before. As far as I can tell though, I can't find anyone who sells these connectors on their own.
-
@steve30
Check molex part number 43031-0007 (micro-fit 3.0 connectors) as they call them, might be what you need.
But I suggest to download the pdf catalog from various distributors (connectors section) and browse it, you might see something that suits your needs better!
Printed versions are always better for browsing. I found that molex part number on an old 2007-2008 printed catalog from RS Components for example, that I keep handy.
George
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The female one is usually a Dupont connector(as the chinese call it) while the male one ... is also dupont
I've heard the Dupont name before. As far as I can tell though, I can't find anyone who sells these connectors on their own.
I think it comes from the french "Du Pont". I'm not too good at french, but I think it means "of bridge" as in bridging wire or jumper wire.
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The female one is usually a Dupont connector(as the chinese call it) while the male one ... is also dupont
I've heard the Dupont name before. As far as I can tell though, I can't find anyone who sells these connectors on their own.
I think it comes from the french "Du Pont". I'm not too good at french, but I think it means "of bridge" as in bridging wire or jumper wire.
In case of the connectors it indirectly comes from the chemical company DuPont. Among many other things they do wire isolations and materials for connectors. The designation "DuPont connector" is a misnomer coming from China. Someone mistook the manufacturer of a wire or connector material for the name of the connector or cable assembly, and that happened to get a live of its own. Especially because those 2.54 mm pitch, 0.64 mm square pin connectors don't have a common name. Every manufacturer calls them differently. Maybe the name will really stick, and we finally get a common name for these connectors.
-
The female one is usually a Dupont connector(as the chinese call it) while the male one ... is also dupont
I've heard the Dupont name before. As far as I can tell though, I can't find anyone who sells these connectors on their own.
I think it comes from the french "Du Pont". I'm not too good at french, but I think it means "of bridge" as in bridging wire or jumper wire.
In case of the connectors it indirectly comes from the chemical company DuPont. Among many other things they do wire isolations and materials for connectors. The designation "DuPont connector" is a misnomer coming from China. Someone mistook the manufacturer of a wire or connector material for the name of the connector or cable assembly, and that happened to get a live of its own. Especially because those 2.54 mm pitch, 0.64 mm square pin connectors don't have a common name. Every manufacturer calls them differently. Maybe the name will really stick, and we finally get a common name for these connectors.
A bit like the way suppliers started calling Belling Lee coax connectors "PAL connectors"! ;D
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@watchitfool
It looks a lot like Molex 52559 (http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0525590652_FFC_FPC_CONNECTORS.xml) but they don't come in 5 pin...
//C
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This is a logic level n-MOSFET, isn't it?
2SK1904 (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/sanyo/ds_pdf_e/2SK1904.pdf)
Alexander.
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Not really, it would like a little more voltage unless you run it under 5A.
-
Thanks m8.
Alexander.
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What is this thing ?
Found it in old CRT computer monitor main board, located around the power switching circuit at mains input area, and through the trace, one of it's leg was connected to the common mode transformer which is connected at the mains line.
Put a TO220 diode beside it to show it's relative size, and no, its not a fuse cause there is already a glass fuse and a mov in the circuit. Measured results in the pic and during measurements, swapped probes (+/-) positions and also diode mode show no polarity.
TIA
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Degaussing thermistor. It is connected across the mains ( nowdays via a relay to reduce power) and has the degaussing coil on the CRT connected to the middle pin across to the left pin ( bottom view, the one with 2k3 resistance) so that when power is supplied it allows an AC current to flow through the coil. The device has a PTC thermistor and a NTC thermistor inside as 2 discs connected between the pins. As the device heats up the 17R unit heats up and the 2k3 unit drops in resistance will it reaches equilibrium where almost all the voltage is dropped and no current flows in the coil. This results in the current in the coil starting at a high value then smoothly dropping in value to near zero, just right to remove any residual magnetism from a CRT front mask so it does not cause colour errors.
You also get a 2 pin version, where it self heats and has a VDR action, such that it basically drops the current to under 10mA through the coil.
Just note that these do run rather hot in use.
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So this thing called "degaussing thermistor" which is just a NTC + PTC bonded together, thanks SeanB ! :-+
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Yes, if you rip it apart you will find 3 plates with 2 ceramic discs between them, grey with a silver coating on the flat faces.
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I googled a lot and could not find much info about the "SK" designator and component itself, found on the hard drive pcbs.
It looks like some ceramic resonator or filter....
Similar thread on Arduino forum with picture: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=126081.0 (http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=126081.0)
Can anyone offer some definitive answer?
-
Looks like a ceramic filter for sure, but the best would be to wait for Free_Electron to see, as he is the Hard drive Guru (amongst many other hats) here.
Up to you Vincent...........
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Has anybody got a clue what this mystery (to me) SMD component is. It's pictured next to a 5p (UK) coin, so its about 2cm/1inch long and the front of the component is transparent.
Even best guesses appreciated :)
Piccy of front and back attached....
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Surface mount connector. The mylar tape ( brown) on top is removed after soldering to enable the plugging in of the other side. From the looks of it it will be used to connect 2 pcb's together with the mating part having a similar footprint but a projecting plug. Common in cellphones and other small units as an interconnect.
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Thanks, that made sense. I removed one of the pieces of tape and could see that it is indeed a connector with a very fine pitch...
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Folks, I have one unknown component. I think is a MOSFET, but can't just figutre out what. IRF Z46 maybe? But that is TO-220.
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IRF7404 (http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf7404.pdf)
-
:palm: thank you
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This is not a component as such, more of an assembly of a quarter inch jack socket with a piece of wire in a yellow container. I got them in among a job lot at an auction. Does any one know what these are used for as I have no idea.
-
Probably were a ground lead for something.
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Any ideas what this 40 PIN DIP IC is please |O, before I chuck em?
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Peel the label off..... Most likely an OTP microcontroller, or if you are lucky a EEPROM device that can be erased.
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:) Should have been brave enough to do that in the first place, turns out to be a Microchip
PIC16C74B-041/P4AP
052338H
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/30605c.pdf (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/30605c.pdf)
I would assume its probably been factory programmed with some proprietry code. I wonder (hope) if its reprogrammable as I have inherited 20 of these with a job lot 'lucky dip' of components. ;D
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:) Should have been brave enough to do that in the first place, turns out to be a Microchip
PIC16C74B-041/P4AP
052338H
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/30605c.pdf (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/30605c.pdf)
I would assume its probably been factory programmed with some proprietry code. I wonder (hope) if its reprogrammable as I have inherited 20 of these with a job lot 'lucky dip' of components. ;D
:-[ should have read more carefully, its OTP!! :palm:
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Yes, but look first before binning, as they could be blank still, just having the label on then never programmed.
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Yes, but look first before binning, as they could be blank still, just having the label on then never programmed.
True, but how can I tell?
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Stick them in a programmer and do a blank check....... Otherwise place in breadboard and add crystal and reset, then apply power and look for activity on pins which says a program is running. Blank will do nothing other than count up address range and roll over.
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Stick them in a programmer and do a blank check....... Otherwise place in breadboard and add crystal and reset, then apply power and look for activity on pins which says a program is running. Blank will do nothing other than count up address range and roll over.
Thanks I'll give that a try (or at least hold onto them until I can)...
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Does anyone recognize this connector and hopefully also know a place to purchase them?
The spacing between pins is .050" and it is mounted in a PCB that is .8mm or around .033" thick.
Thanks
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Looking for any info for smd component marked "K4A". It is most probably some kind of switching regulator IC.
Two of those are in power supply part of "AR.Drone" quadcopter that I'm trying to repair.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/21387397/slike/eevblog/k4a.jpg)
(image taken from some Russian forum)
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Looking for any info for smd component marked "K4A".
It is a LM158 - a wide temperature range two opamp version of the common quad opamp LM324.
This version is in the DFN8 package which LM158QT.
If you are not using it under extreme temperature conditions, a LM358 in a suitable package would be fine.
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I've got a component that I would like to figure out what it is =0).
Little rectangle notched on one side. tapered back top. and stamped with FIOY (not sure if F10Y or FIOY) on it.
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It is a LM158 - a wide temperature range two opamp version of the common quad opamp LM324.
I'm afraid it's not :-\
Pinout does not match at all, and this component must be some kind of switcher step down IC because it is connected directly to 4.7uH inductor.
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Here's an IC that is some kind of switch-mode controller. It's on an inverter-type microwave oven PCB which I'm interested in adapting as a HV power supply. Depending on whether the circuit is suitable.
So far, no luck searching for the part number: AN9DB07SB 929S6E02
The oven is a Panasonic NN-SD686S, but I've seen this identical inverter PCB used in two other different Panasonic microwave ovens, so I'm hoping it's going to be common 'street findings' in future.
Full story with teardown pics here: http://everist.org/tales/20130308_microwave_hacks.htm (http://everist.org/tales/20130308_microwave_hacks.htm)
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Here's an IC that is some kind of switch-mode controller. It's on an inverter-type microwave oven PCB which I'm interested in adapting as a HV power supply. Depending on whether the circuit is suitable.
So far, no luck searching for the part number: AN9DB07SB 929S6E02
I believe the logo is the Matsushita/Panasonic logo. The only info I can find remotely relating to that series of IC is this one.
http://www.semicon.panasonic.co.jp/ds4/AN9D_E_discon.pdf (http://www.semicon.panasonic.co.jp/ds4/AN9D_E_discon.pdf)
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Ow! That's not good at all. Custom analog, proprietary, and probably no public data at all. Darn it.
That leaves just observing what it does, then looking for a way to replace it with something easily available.
Where 'it' would probably be easiest if I ignore the IC, and consider that whole rider board as a black box.
Thanks though.
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I've been checking too on the controller for the oven, no luck this time. |O
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I've got a component that I would like to figure out what it is =0).
Little rectangle notched on one side. tapered back top. and stamped with FIOY (not sure if F10Y or FIOY) on it.
check with multimeter if it is a diode.
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Please, remind me the name of this npn/pnp voltage amplifier configuration.
(http://i.imgur.com/LtB6TJK.png)
Alexander.
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Please, remind me the me of this npn/pnp voltage amplifier configuration.
http://i.imgur.com/LtB6TJK.png (http://i.imgur.com/LtB6TJK.png)
Alexander.
Is it just a non-inverting amplifier of some form?
-kizzap
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Looking for any info for smd component marked "K4A". It is most probably some kind of switching regulator IC.
Two of those are in power supply part of "AR.Drone" quadcopter that I'm trying to repair.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/21387397/slike/eevblog/k4a.jpg)
(image taken from some Russian forum)
It's an AZ431 made by BCD Semiconductor. Shunt mode regulator.
http://www.bcdsemi.com/Upload/Product%20Doc/Datasheet/AZ431-B%20D3.3%20121205.pdf (http://www.bcdsemi.com/Upload/Product%20Doc/Datasheet/AZ431-B%20D3.3%20121205.pdf)
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package seems to be DFN-8, so the 431 varity doesn't fit, plus the OP mentioned something about being directly connected to an inductor.
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Here's an IC that is some kind of switch-mode controller. It's on an inverter-type microwave oven PCB which I'm interested in adapting as a HV power supply. Depending on whether the circuit is suitable.
So far, no luck searching for the part number: AN9DB07SB 929S6E02
The oven is a Panasonic NN-SD686S, but I've seen this identical inverter PCB used in two other different Panasonic microwave ovens, so I'm hoping it's going to be common 'street findings' in future.
Full story with teardown pics here: http://everist.org/tales/20130308_microwave_hacks.htm (http://everist.org/tales/20130308_microwave_hacks.htm)
No help on the IC, but I have some answers to other questions you posed at the linked site.
Some Litz wire is available here:
http://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/LitzWire.html (http://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/LitzWire.html)
And in the transformer, the extra magnetic path (the one with the wide gap) introduces a controlled amount of leakage inductance by creating flux that does not couple to the secondary. It saves having an extra inductor component in series with the primary winding since it is incorporated into the transformer. It's probably a resonant converter.
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I've got a component that I would like to figure out what it is =0).
Little rectangle notched on one side. tapered back top. and stamped with FIOY (not sure if F10Y or FIOY) on it.
Probably too late to help you, but it looks like an ICPF10 400mA semiconductor fuse.
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Please, remind me the name of this npn/pnp voltage amplifier configuration.
(http://i.imgur.com/LtB6TJK.png)
Alexander.
IMHO looks like a Sziklai pair. Sometimes also called a complementary darlington - because it uses one PNP and one NPN. You can read up here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sziklai_pair (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sziklai_pair)
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Looking for any help on the following parts:
2160 7A1
16UN1801 0612 G
They are part of a buck voltage converter around a MAX8538
Thanks
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OK
I found the 16UN part, seems philips make TWO parts with exactly the SAME part number
One is SOT23 which is only a single part, and it was this showing up in searches......
So I just need to know the other part.
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The other one is a MOSFET.
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Yep... that I know , I was looking for a part or manufacturer ref....
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K got it!!!!
HAT2160H-EL-E Renesas Technology Corp
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Look what I found in a dumpster-dive. :o A set of 5 serious diodes D2-25-4 and D2-25-7. Any idea how much current and voltage it can rectifier? These things are biggest semiconductors I ever hold in my hand with M-12 bolt to connect to the heatsink.
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Well, they are Russian made, so probably 25A units that can be used as room heaters.......
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Perfect. :-DD It is sub-zero cold here for many months from October to March/April :P Hmm... On one russian site was written that it's 250A 400V (?) although someone from my work said too that it maybe is just 25A diodes._
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I had a mig welder that had three similar looking diodes but UK made that was rated to 200 amps the transformer was three phase.
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Looks like 25A, 400 and 700 volts, see:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/D2-25-6-NEW-INDUSTRIAL-RECTIFIER-DIODE-25A-600V-/250684091515 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/D2-25-6-NEW-INDUSTRIAL-RECTIFIER-DIODE-25A-600V-/250684091515)
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eBay? ??? I don't trust that site for accuracy. I'm planning to make a decent PSU from parts i have in a basement or in my mind, my cardboard box transformer PSU burned out the compact bridge rectifier again dispite the forced cooling of the fan while testing a small schematic, 25A should be fair enough, but 250A is better chances to survive accidental shortcuts. Although it is similar or same as the one in that link._
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Any info on a TO-3 package labeled:
M
10243
8439
? The M looks like the Motorola logo, and the device is on a 48V 3A PS. Thanks for the help.
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Any info on a TO-3 package labeled:
M
10243
8439
Probably a house labeled pass transistor. But Lambda also used dual rectifiers in a TO-3, so you should find a schematic or draw out the circuit. If it's a pass transistor, it's probably non-critical, just make sure the V/A ratings are big enough. I used some 2N6284s to fix a Lambda 24V/3A linear.
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I don't really need any help with identification...more...just thought it was a funny brand...
(http://users.tpg.com.au/luce90//sus%20caps.jpg)
-kizzap
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I've not seen that make before either, just another Taiwan band I guess. I'd rather them be called Su'spect, though, because at least then I'd know what I was dealing with :)
I'm assuming you already know the two in the centre of shot are failing (tops bulged)
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Heh, yeah I know they were suss (or a con. take your pun ;) ). Replaced the six of them, and the monitor the board was pulled from works! :-+ :scared:
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Thats a good abbreviation for suspect condensers.
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most likely a Infrared sensor (infra red sensor- infra-red sensor- IR sensor). For use with PICAXE circuits to detect infra-red signals from a TV style remote control or another PICAXE chip. 2.7V to 5.5V operation.
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I've got an insultingly simple one - what's the name of this? I bought them from god knows where on eBay, just called "2.54mm headers", and I want a name to put them in my component library under. They're ridiculously common, so someone's got to know a proper name for them!
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I dunno, I'd think "header" would be a perfectly appropriate name for it.
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Would a "shrouded header" be enough? I didn't want to use 'header' because it's bigger than an unshrouded one, so it needs a bigger courtyard and thus a different footprint.
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Is it not just referred to as a 2.54mm Molex connector?
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http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eXH.pdf (http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eXH.pdf)
JST "XH" connector. Spacing is 2.5mm (close enough to 2.54 that it doesn't matter unless you have a high pin count connector)
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Does anyone know the name of this connector? Never seen that before. Guy from my work said that they received PH electrodes with such connectors but without any wires. I think it's some surplus, damn cheapskates. Now they don't know what to do with them.
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It looks a bit like a Siemens coax connector.
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Any one know what this is please, the one on the left in the photo. with the sil pad, it says D288 on top and Y-920 at the bottom, one leg appears to be open and I am not sure if its a transistor or back to back diode, its from a scope power supply. Google does not come up with it but does with BD288.
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Any one know what this is please, the one on the left in the photo. with the sil pad, it says D288 on top and Y-920 at the bottom, one leg appears to be open and I am not sure if its a transistor or back to back diode, its from a scope power supply. Google does not come up with it but does with BD288.
http://www.svntc.com/TPDF/1272.pdf (http://www.svntc.com/TPDF/1272.pdf)
When in doubt, add "2S" before the name of what looks like a transistor
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Anyone know what package this bridge rectifier is in?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/677635/bridgerectifier.jpg)
I have a whole bunch of the I got a few years ago, decided to make something with them.
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Anyone know what package this bridge rectifier is in?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/677635/bridgerectifier.jpg)
I have a whole bunch of the I got a few years ago, decided to make something with them.
I think it's called GBJ. Really!
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I think it's called GBJ. Really!
Holy crap, i thought that was part of the part number! I mean, you never see transistors in to-220 packages with to-220 written on them ect! I feel dumb :(
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I think it's called GBJ. Really!
Holy crap, i thought that was part of the part number! I mean, you never see transistors in to-220 packages with to-220 written on them ect! I feel dumb :(
It's also part of the part number. Those bridge rectifiers are so common that the manufactures simply use the package, amps and voltage as part number.
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I need some tac switch extensions, but I do not know what they are called. I have a board which has a number of tac. switches on it that I want to mount in a case. I have seen these devises which mount on the case to make contact with the board mounted switches but no idea where to look as I do not know the correct name.
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I need some tac switch extensions, but I do not know what they are called. I have a board which has a number of tac. switches on it that I want to mount in a case. I have seen these devises which mount on the case to make contact with the board mounted switches but no idea where to look as I do not know the correct name.
They seem to be called "extenders" or "plungers". Here's one:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2S09-05.0/679-2201-ND/2034757 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2S09-05.0/679-2201-ND/2034757)
and here's a bunch more (not all for tact switches):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?pv184=2918&pv184=469&pv184=2608&FV=fff40011%2Cfff80054&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?pv184=2918&pv184=469&pv184=2608&FV=fff40011%2Cfff80054&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25)
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Hello , I have this component here not sure what it is code is ITT RA15,it long glass tube, with two wires out of the base, there looks to be a filament, don't think it's a bulb, could it be a fuse,i first thought perhaps it is a reed relay, but the one's I have the wires are either end Help. ITT RA15
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It is a thermistor unit, and is normally used in self heating mode to provide stabilisation of analogue circuits. They are commonly used in Wein oscillators to keep the loop gain constant and so generate a constant amplitude sine wave.
Another use is as a temperature sensor in amplifiers to keep the bias constant with external temperature changes.
http://www.murata.com/products/catalog/pdf/r44e.pdf (http://www.murata.com/products/catalog/pdf/r44e.pdf)
http://www.avx.com/docs/masterpubs/ntctherm.pdf (http://www.avx.com/docs/masterpubs/ntctherm.pdf)
for more info.
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Thank you Sean, wondered what it was
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I was going to use one when I made an ESR meter, but instead used a 28V grain of wheat leaded lamp instead as a PTC. Still have a few around in a box somewhere. I just had to look thorugh the box of assorted leaded lamps and test a few of the mixed ones to sort out a 28V one. Took 3V from 2 AA cells and tested lamps to find those that did not glow ( the glowing ones were the 5V ones) then tested the dark ones on 12V to get the non glowing again ( 12V lamps0 and finally checked them on 24V to see if they still worked. Took the first one and used it and put the rest back in the box mixed as before.
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Hi I have a TO220 package on a chinese PWM motor controller labeled STPS205100CT, G40N2 and CHN305 I have tried Google but cannot find any info on this device, in fact all it seems to bring up is dodgy Russian web sites with links to other even more dodgy Russian porn sites. Any one have an idea as to what this device is please.
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Hi I have a TO220 package on a chinese PWM motor controller labeled STPS205100CT, G40N2 and CHN305 I have tried Google but cannot find any info on this device, in fact all it seems to bring up is dodgy Russian web sites with links to other even more dodgy Russian porn sites. Any one have an idea as to what this device is please.
A ST power shottky diode?
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STPS20S100CT
That 5 is an S :)
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/111350/STMICROELECTRONICS/STPS20S100CT.html (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/111350/STMICROELECTRONICS/STPS20S100CT.html)
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STPS20S100CT
That 5 is an S :)
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/111350/STMICROELECTRONICS/STPS20S100CT.html (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/111350/STMICROELECTRONICS/STPS20S100CT.html)
Thanks for the reply.
It more a shoddy diode than a schottky diode The PWM is supposed to be rated at 10 amps but this diode gets to hot to touch at 1.4 amps and the writing is duff as well as the 5 is written as an S
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Probably a regular 1A silicon die in a plastic package ( bet the back is poorly moulded and very small as well) sold as the expensive part.
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Hi, blown my poor rigol dg1022 to hell with a short on the gnd to a live power rail |O does anyone know what this is? it's right before the output and 2 pads are connecting the the signal to the output while 2 other pads are connected to gnd, problem is this part has become almost a short to gnd on the signal and as such there is no signal coming out of the rigol, the unit works fine if i just bridge the pads but don't what to risk working without this protection whatever it is
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You'll need a clearer picture than that, and perhaps show the component in context on the board.
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I am going to guess it is a common mode RF choke, or a transient suppressor device that clamps overvoltage to ground.
http://www.yuden.co.jp/or/product/category/emisuppression/CM01S600T.html (http://www.yuden.co.jp/or/product/category/emisuppression/CM01S600T.html)
Is a start to look.
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more images, the sinal is very clean even without the part, from the side the part looks like it has a cylindrical core glued in place so maybe as SeanB said it's a rf choke?
edit: thinking of cutting the part if it helps
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The better quality picture you posted together with the pcb makes it almost certain it is an output filter, some kind of LC combination circuit.
-
Thanks for the help, gave me a few ideas for new things to put there ;D
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I have SOT23 package that has the value 01CL on it.
I have the schematic it is in attached.
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looks like a mosfet or transistor to short 5v to gnd in case of battery over-voltage, better to blow a fuse than a battery i guess. that or someone messed-up the schematic, the datasheet for the battery charger does have a few use cases with mosfets in it but none in the bat pin
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With this thing I know what it is, more or less, but can't find data. Only a few incidental mentions of it being used.
It's by Ortel Corp USA. Model PD050-PM S/N P791.
It's a high bandwidth fiber-optic to photo-diode, with an SMA output connector. I was buying something else from an ebay seller in the USA, and this was only $20 and could go in the same box. The fiber had an obvious kink near the optical connector, and now on arrival, shining a laser through the fiber, yes the glass core was snapped. I cut it off there - still leaving 50cm of fiber on the sensor.
So now I'm also looking for a 2nd hand kit for terminating fiber in these connectors. Actually have been for a while, but not really trying. Here's more motivation.
Would anyone have an old Ortel data book, by any chance? I'd never even heard of them.
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So now I'm also looking for a 2nd hand kit for terminating fiber in these connectors. Actually have been for a while, but not really trying. Here's more motivation.
The connector at the right seems to be a FC/PC. Is it the same connector as at the back of the diode? A short patch cable should cost about US$ 15-20. I'd choose a SC or LC connector for the non-diode side, since FC/PC is really outdated. And please also check if there's any marking on the current fiber which would indicate if it's single or multimode (something like 9/125 or 50/125).
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So now I'm also looking for a 2nd hand kit for terminating fiber in these connectors. Actually have been for a while, but not really trying. Here's more motivation.
The connector at the right seems to be a FC/PC. Is it the same connector as at the back of the diode? A short patch cable should cost about US$ 15-20. I'd choose a SC or LC connector for the non-diode side, since FC/PC is really outdated. And please also check if there's any marking on the current fiber which would indicate if it's single or multimode (something like 9/125 or 50/125).
Unfortunately, the fiber is terminated directly into the sensor. Glued in, with heatshrink cover. It's very likely the fiber is terminated very directly to the actual sensor inside. So, I need to put a new connector on the other end.
I don't know anything about coms fiber standards, connectors, etc. I do have various Cisco routers and stuff, some with fiber connectors (that I've never used.) But mainly I was thinking this might be useful for a project unrelated to coms. The objective would be to examine the light output from something, that might contain components up into the GHz range. So I more need a way to couple the fiber to a lens system, like a C mount small camera lens.
Can you suggest a url for a good review of current fiber connector types, and pros/cons?
There's no marking I can see in the fiber. The sheath seems to be fairly stiff nylon(?) tubing about 1mm dia, with a fiber fairly loose inside the hollow core.
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Unfortunately, the fiber is terminated directly into the sensor. Glued in, with heatshrink cover. It's very likely the fiber is terminated very directly to the actual sensor inside. So, I need to put a new connector on the other end.
Then the next best thing would be to look for someone with the proper tools to attach a new connector.
Can you suggest a url for a good review of current fiber connector types, and pros/cons?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiber_connectors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiber_connectors) :-) SC is fine. And if you need something else later on there are back-to-back adapters and patch cables with different connectors at both sides.
There's no marking I can see in the fiber. The sheath seems to be fairly stiff nylon(?) tubing about 1mm dia, with a fiber fairly loose inside the hollow core.
That's a pity because the marking would tell us roughly which transmission windows are to be expected.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiber_connectors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiber_connectors) :-) SC is fine. And if you need something else later on there are back-to-back adapters and patch cables with different connectors at both sides.
Ha ha ha... no matter *how* many times I tell myself to search first, ask 2nd, I still get caught doing that sometimes. Old pre-internet habit. Anyway, thanks.
There's no marking I can see in the fiber. The sheath seems to be fairly stiff nylon(?) tubing about 1mm dia, with a fiber fairly loose inside the hollow core.
That's a pity because the marking would tell us roughly which transmission windows are to be expected.
Ah. That's something that didn't occur to me. I just presumed the transmission spectra would be flat. I would like to find out. Hopefully when (if) I find the data for this, it will include that info. If not, I have a 20cm length of the fiber with a connector on one end. Could put a connector on the other end too. But would a 20cm length be enough to do transmission spectra measurement? Perhaps not.
I don't suppose it's possible to tell, by looking at the fiber under a microscope?
Well, all this should wait till I find the data. I can probably determine if the sensor is working, even before putting a connector on the free end of the fiber.
It's nice that it has a male SMA. It can mount directly on an input of my HP 54121T 20GHz scope. Assuming it doesn't need a bias supply, which it might.
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I don't suppose it's possible to tell, by looking at the fiber under a microscope?
If you got a ruler with a µm scale :-) But you could check the relative difference between the core and the cladding. Multimode has usualy a 50µm (sometimes 62.5) core and a 125µm cladding (hence the marking 50/125) . Singlemode is 9/125 typically.
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If you got a ruler with a µm scale :-)
Heh. It's called a micrometer. I do.
But you could check the relative difference between the core and the cladding. Multimode has usualy a 50µm (sometimes 62.5) core and a 125µm cladding (hence the marking 50/125) . Singlemode is 9/125 typically.
After slitting a bit of the outer nylon sheath, then slitting off a few mm of the next sheath under magnification (it's some kind of silicone stuff I think, quite soft), the fiber is indeed 0.125mm (125um). But it seems to be glass, and I can't think of any way to determine the size of the core. The core and cladding are just two different density glasses melded together, right?
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Technically it is an outer cladding cylinder over an inner rod then fused together and drawn into a fibre, but yes it is one single unit even though the composition of the glass changes between outside and centre.
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Hi, Can anyone tell me what kind of sensor it is that is in the photo please. Just cleaning out some parts.
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Help!
I'm in a middle of repairing an Scooter CDI unit (from Hyosung SF50) and while de-potting/examining the system I found a 3 legged part with following desriptions I think is faulty.
- 3 legs, black and looks like regular to-92 transistor. (thus no picture)
- At the component, there are 2 lines of markings: P4M and 3X
- PCB Silkscreen has making Q5 ... (so most likely transistor, perhaps Fet?)
- All 3 legs are shorted together internallty (2ohms or less.. ) :--
This part is located next of 2N3904 transistor and NEC 2P4M thyristor which are connected together and to best of my knowleldge do the capasitor discharge that causes the ingnition to fire.
Totally unrelated, but this cdi unit has embedded AT90S2313 -4PI microcontroller and I located In circuit programming header (unpopopulated, though) so it might be possible to read back the code/data of those CDI module.
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- At the component, there are 2 lines of markings: P4M and 3X
This part is located next of 2N3904 transistor and NEC 2P4M thyristor which are connected together and to best of my knowleldge do the capasitor discharge that causes the ingnition to fire.
Coincidence?
(http://img01.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i1/T1na_tXcdgXXbGlfMT_011607.jpg)
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It may indeed well be, that the unknown part is/was NEC made. Unfortunately NEC sold that part of the company to Renesas some years ago.
Also these parts are so old, that the best bet would be searching the Obsolete-bin, but so far no luck
http://www.renesas.eu/req/obsolete_search.do?event=discontinuedSearch (http://www.renesas.eu/req/obsolete_search.do?event=discontinuedSearch)
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This link says it is a 500V 0.4A Thyristor: http://articulo.mercadolibre.cl/MLC-412226324-p4m-p4m-03-03p4m-thyristor-tiristor-scr-to-92-500v-04a-_JM (http://articulo.mercadolibre.cl/MLC-412226324-p4m-p4m-03-03p4m-thyristor-tiristor-scr-to-92-500v-04a-_JM)
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Thank you.
As far as I know it's quite common for thyristors to fail to total short (essnetially fuse together permanently), and the location/wiring suppports the idea of second SCR ..
There seems to be quite a many similar high-volt thyristors available at to-92 case. And of those that I have checked, even pinout compatible. So I'll go and purchase some BT149G or MCR100-6G tomorrow (assuming I find some at local shop) and will try if that was the problem.
(edit)
I attached pic of the part, it really looks like one PA0PBZ linked. )
PS: I know.. I shoudl take pics with real camera and not try to *** up with a phone.
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eBay? ??? I don't trust that site for accuracy. I'm planning to make a decent PSU from parts i have in a basement or in my mind, my cardboard box transformer PSU burned out the compact bridge rectifier again dispite the forced cooling of the fan while testing a small schematic, 25A should be fair enough, but 250A is better chances to survive accidental shortcuts. Although it is similar or same as the one in that link._
?2-25 - is a diode 25A, digit that follows it mean voltage class. for example ?2-25-4 means 25A, 400V. Letter '?' means D in Cyrillic for diode. I was 10 years old 30 years ago - they were already history back then ;D
Model: ?2-25-4
Type: power, rectifier
Max reverse voltage(V):400
Max forward current(?): 25
Anode:
Cathode: body
Thread: ?12
Max temp: 130°C
(Voltage drop?) Vfm ?1.8V
Max reverse current Irm ?18mA
?30mm
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I found this component on power supply board of some sort. Have no idea what it can be - large flat, yellow square with few markings on it.
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Looks like a PPTC fuse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse)
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2400mA one if I remember correctly the ratings table. Will not trip at that current until it is at 100C, and then will have to have to cool. Max ratings typically are 30V for breaking. They will not trip if the current is under 2x the rated, and if the voltage is under 5V then they are not likely to trip at all unless there is a dead short.
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2400mA one if I remember correctly the ratings table. Will not trip at that current until it is at 100C, and then will have to have to cool. Max ratings typically are 30V for breaking. They will not trip if the current is under 2x the rated, and if the voltage is under 5V then they are not likely to trip at all unless there is a dead short.
Thanks, it make sense. I tried to connect it in series with 8 ohm power resistor and then applied 30V - nothing happened, resistor got very hot and that is it. I don't think I have power supply that can trip it . I touched it with the tip of soldering iron and I think it worked as expected.
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Often the rating used is more a requirement of the on resistance of the device than the circuit current. the internal resistance can vary with temperature below trip, and can get quite high even at current below trip. As well they have a limited number of trip cycles before they fail, either by cracking and going open or worse by quietly going short circuit.
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These are telephone line transient suppressors, formed (I think) by a short spark gap sealed inside.
But I can't find the manufacturer or the data for them.
I have a box full of them, and want to use some on cables connecting two buildings together. But it would be nice to know the breakdown voltage. The only HV power supply I have handy only goes to 350V, and these don't breakdown at that.
Can anyone point me to a data sheet for these?
The numbers are "35087" and "10A"
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Those are gas discharge tubes, generally Siemens and littlefuse made those for phone systems.
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/gas-discharge-tubes.aspx (http://www.littelfuse.com/products/gas-discharge-tubes.aspx)
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Hi guys,
My computers' power supply released some of his magic blue smoke today. I found the blown component but I can't read the part number because a piece of it is missing. It was mounted to a huge heat sink so it might be some kind of voltage regulator...
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My computers' power supply released some of his magic blue smoke today. I found the blown component but I can't read the part number because a piece of it is missing. It was mounted to a huge heat sink so it might be some kind of voltage regulator...
I'd guess it's some transistor 2SCxx27 (TO126 package, 1A perhaps).
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My computers' power supply released some of his magic blue smoke today. I found the blown component but I can't read the part number because a piece of it is missing. It was mounted to a huge heat sink so it might be some kind of voltage regulator...
I'd guess it's some transistor 2SCxx27 (TO126 package, 1A perhaps).
Yeah that could be possible, its a switching power supply and this component is pretty close to the mains rectifier diodes.
Thanks!
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help ident this strange chip I found some where no clue where anymore.
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Looks like an optocoupler
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Looks like an optocoupler
The Bay agrees: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SD3494-Opto-8-Pin-CLEAR-DIP-PACKAGE-COLLECTIBLE-RARE-NOS-/370568309481 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SD3494-Opto-8-Pin-CLEAR-DIP-PACKAGE-COLLECTIBLE-RARE-NOS-/370568309481)
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Looks like an optocoupler
if it is its only 1/2 of one, those are 4 photo sensors of sometype.. output .5 volt each in direct sunlight. and theres 4 sensors..
its some sort of sensor device. but not a optocoupler.
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Looks like an optocoupler
The Bay agrees: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SD3494-Opto-8-Pin-CLEAR-DIP-PACKAGE-COLLECTIBLE-RARE-NOS-/370568309481 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SD3494-Opto-8-Pin-CLEAR-DIP-PACKAGE-COLLECTIBLE-RARE-NOS-/370568309481)
RARE- VERY COLLECTIBLE
:-DD
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Linear optosensor. Used to either detect position of a light source or of a flag to make a very precise switch. A large version of the line scanner used in a multifunction machine, digital copier or fax machine.
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Looks like an optocoupler
if it is its only 1/2 of one, those are 4 photo sensors of sometype.. output .5 volt each in direct sunlight. and theres 4 sensors..
its some sort of sensor device. but not a optocoupler.
Haha, yes very funny Ebay listing - "Opto" - opto-what? sensor? Isolator? Looks to me like some sort of sensor hence the transparent body. Yes it could be some sort of linear opto-sensor but with only 4 segments ... hmmmm strange.
Color sensor?
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I am thinking it's a regulator, part that says GGRTW which I can't find on google.
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Anyone know what this is? I took a picture of the die because it had a window. The only markings were "c51a". My guess is a laser somthing.
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Does anybody have a datasheet - or know an equivalent - for an Intersil ITS80008, please?
It is a DIP40 and almost certainly some form of digital volt/multimeter, complete with 4x 7 segment LED drivers. I have come across one in a nice, little panel meter from the late seventies, and wouldn't mind knowing how not to blow out the inputs. The meter is (probably) a type 713 from IMC, Tucson, AZ, US of A.
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Anyone know what this is? I took a picture of the die because it had a window. The only markings were "c51a". My guess is a laser somthing.
Where did it come out of?
Does anybody have a datasheet - or know an equivalent - for an Intersil ITS80008, please?
It is a DIP40 and almost certainly some form of digital volt/multimeter, complete with 4x 7 segment LED drivers. I have come across one in a nice, little panel meter from the late seventies, and wouldn't mind knowing how not to blow out the inputs. The meter is (probably) a type 713 from IMC, Tucson, AZ, US of A.
RE the schematic and see, does it look anything like the ICL7106? http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/fn30/fn3082.jpg (http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/fn30/fn3082.jpg)
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RE the schematic and see, does it look anything like the ICL7106? http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/fn30/fn3082.jpg (http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/fn30/fn3082.jpg)
Unfortunately the chip doesn't appear to be an exact equivalent of the ICL7106. First, the pinout of the ITS80008 is nearly - yet not quite - a mirror reverse(!) of the ICL7106. Yet there are maddening differences, like the '08 taking +5V power on pin 40, and ground on pin 20, while the '7106 runs on +9V between pin 1 and 26.
The ICL7106 may be a good starting point for a full RE though. Thanks for the heads-up. :)
The meter is an IMC type 513A, by the way. Previous number provided is not correct.
Edit: The chip may be an ICL7107R, which is the LED driver equivalent of the '06 (intended for driving LCDs). They have different pinouts, and the '07R runs on +5V on the pins mentioned. :D
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Hello there,
Does anyone know what sort of pressure sensor this is ? It comes from a digital barometer sold for sailing. The instrument itself is sold at a high price but the construction quality is incredibly poor : not waterproof, paper pcb, single sided board, loose wires, a single miniature incandescent bulb for lcd backlight...
On the board there was only a single, custom barometer chip which is of no interest, and this. I guess this must be the pressure sensor. There is a hole in the PCB just underneath, as you can see from the back.
The manufacturer/seller of the instrument ("Vion") did not even develop the product, as we can see the PCB is labeled "alpes deis" which seems to be a very small French electronics development company. I won't even try to contact them, they won't answer at all since they know I represent zero profit for them ^-^
(http://jfsimon.net/images/forums/unknownpressuresensor/th_front.jpg) (http://jfsimon.net/images/forums/unknownpressuresensor/front.jpg)
(http://jfsimon.net/images/forums/unknownpressuresensor/th_back.jpg) (http://jfsimon.net/images/forums/unknownpressuresensor/back.jpg)
thanks ! 8)
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here you go .
http://www.industrysearch.com.au/Pressure-Sensor-MS5534C-Barometer-Module/p/84960 (http://www.industrysearch.com.au/Pressure-Sensor-MS5534C-Barometer-Module/p/84960)
http://www.amsys.info/products/ms5534.htm (http://www.amsys.info/products/ms5534.htm)
http://www.datasheetdir.com/MS5534A+Pressure-Sensors (http://www.datasheetdir.com/MS5534A+Pressure-Sensors)
Pressure Sensor | MS5534C Barometer Module
EDIT: Yours is a MS5534A .
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Awesome ! Thank you very much ! :-+ :-+
It looks like an interesting device, with some nice features, at first glance ^-^
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I am thinking it's a regulator, part that says GGRTW which I can't find on google.
What is the pcb from ? + model name/number on pcb etc .
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Wow, lovely sensors they have - MS5805 includes 24 DAC with 15 cm altitude resolution. :-)
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Ok so this component is a capacitor I am pretty sure of that, however I have no idea what type of capacitor. Doesn't look like any electrolytic or ceramic capacitor I have ever seen.
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Ok so this component is a capacitor I am pretty sure of that, however I have no idea what type of capacitor. Doesn't look like any electrolytic or ceramic capacitor I have ever seen.
what is the pcb from ? make/model might help if theres a schematic.
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Ok so this component is a capacitor I am pretty sure of that,
It is a polyester film capacitor mostly (if not exclusively) made by EPCOS.
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Yes very much like it. I wonder who painted the sides with blue paint?
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Theres some datasheets here:
http://www.epcos.com/web/generator/Web/Sections/ProductCatalog/Capacitors/FilmCapacitors/MetallizedPolyester/Page,locale=en.html (http://www.epcos.com/web/generator/Web/Sections/ProductCatalog/Capacitors/FilmCapacitors/MetallizedPolyester/Page,locale=en.html)
The caps are ,radial Boxed,radial uncoated ,radial coated etc and a note in one the datasheets about mounting -
Notes on mounting
When mounting these capacitors, take into account creepage distances and clearances to
adjacent live parts. The insulating strength of the cut surfaces to other live parts of the circuit is
1.5 times the capacitors rated DC voltage, but is always at least 300 V DC.
That could be why theyve been "painted" ?
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The painting is just the "extra protected" version. Those generally are nice capacitors, and are made on a large wheel and then cut to size before final lead attachment.
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What are the components in the metallic packages? I never noticed them before.
The packages look like oscillators. But the components are used in power supply related context (big inductors and caps), which I think eliminates that possibility. What else? Fancy caps? Tiny transformers?
Source: 27" iMac teardown on iFixit
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iMac+Intel+27-Inch+EMC+2639+Teardown/17828/1 (http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iMac+Intel+27-Inch+EMC+2639+Teardown/17828/1)
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Ok, I think I figured it out: International Rectifier DirectFET MOSFETs
http://www.irf.com/product-info/directfet/ (http://www.irf.com/product-info/directfet/)
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Hi can anybody tell me what these parts are soldered to the legs of this to92?
Have no idea what they might be called
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Hi can anybody tell me what these parts are soldered to the legs of this to92?
Have no idea what they might be called
They look like PCB Turrets to me
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Test points, there are a quite a few to choose from, here are some examples
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/series.aspx?id=6&Category=154 (http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/series.aspx?id=6&Category=154)
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/series.aspx?id=6&Category=31 (http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/series.aspx?id=6&Category=31)
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Guess what is this
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S504T dual-gate "MOS Monolithic Integrated Circuit" (http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/vishay/85043.pdf)
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S504T dual-gate "MOS Monolithic Integrated Circuit" (http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/vishay/85043.pdf)
A TV Tuner? Wow!
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S504T dual-gate "MOS Monolithic Integrated Circuit" (http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/vishay/85043.pdf)
A TV Tuner? Wow!
Actually a wide-band low-noise amplifier, core component for this project:
http://lna4all.blogspot.it/2013/04/lna-for-all-low-noise-amplifier-for.html (http://lna4all.blogspot.it/2013/04/lna-for-all-low-noise-amplifier-for.html#comment-form)
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Oh! Oh! May I?
The hand drawn part is the rough copy of the silk screen that was under the component. Basically a zigzag in a rectangle. Probably some power component, but I have never seen the symbol, so no idea.
EDIT: added a picture with a ruler. It's about 10mm wide.
What happened to your photos?
My guess: after 2.5 years most bits are recycled and used somewhere else on the 'net?
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Hi can anybody tell me what these parts are soldered to the legs of this to92?
Have no idea what they might be called
To me it looks like they are crimped to the to92's legs so i'd say they are contacts for a twist socket like the ones on a fluorescent lamp starter .
I guess the to92 part is a temperature sensor .
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Hi,
It's a inductorless SR IC. Its powered from the mains (110/240 V ac). Ok, I know what it is, but i can not identify the part number on the IC. I wonder if someone can identify the IC based on the traces on the pcb. I don't have a better picture of it. It's from the "Moteino" website.
Thanks.
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the picture isnt clear enough.
http://lowpowerlab.com/contact/ (http://lowpowerlab.com/contact/)
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According to the guy, it's a Supertex SR-086 Inductorless Switching Regulator.
-
Hi!
Can someone confirm whether this is a quad positioning sensor or something else?
Appreciate all input!
Thanks
-
Uncased 4 quadrant large area photodiode definitely.
-
Thanks,
any idea where I get something like that? I also wondered, how are you so sure. In what kind of application have you seen something like that before?
Thanks
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Large area silicon chip with bond wires. Applications are sensing in things like industrial equipment to detect alignment, or other applications which were use once.
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What connector is this? Some type of coax...
http://th03.deviantart.net/fs70/PRE/i/2013/316/a/4/connector_by_phaedrus2401-d6u1cyp.jpg (http://th03.deviantart.net/fs70/PRE/i/2013/316/a/4/connector_by_phaedrus2401-d6u1cyp.jpg)
I need a 100Mhz 10x scope probe with that connector, and BNC on the other end. Don't know what to call it to search for it.
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It looks like an RP-SMA connector .As used in wifi .
-
Thanks,
any idea where I get something like that? I also wondered, how are you so sure. In what kind of application have you seen something like that before?
Thanks
I think smaller versions of that are used in cd/dvd/blueray players.. not 100% on that though
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What connector is this? Some type of coax...
http://th03.deviantart.net/fs70/PRE/i/2013/316/a/4/connector_by_phaedrus2401-d6u1cyp.jpg (http://th03.deviantart.net/fs70/PRE/i/2013/316/a/4/connector_by_phaedrus2401-d6u1cyp.jpg)
It's just a standard male SMA connector, RP-SMA swaps the pin to the other side of the connection.
Yes it is.My bad :palm: :=\
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Anyone know what the FET labelled E401 is (second schematic). It's in the peak detector circuit and it looks like the drain and source are shorted together.
Is it maybe used as a variable resistance device? Anyone know a substitute or part number?
BTW This is a very nice voltmeter with plenty of rectification options and bandpass filter selections. Perfect for audio work really (or anything to 500 KHz).
(http://www.chinaicmart.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/200962422510387.gif)
(http://www.chinaicmart.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20096242260761.gif)
Though it's built with standard components, this ac voltmeter contains many features not typi-cally found in commercial meters; the most unusual is a selection of rectification modes. The meter responses available include true RMS ('fRMS), average, RMS-calibrated average responding, positive peak, negative peak, positive-peak hold, and negative-peak hold.
High- and low-pass filters (S1 and S6, respectively) allow the -3-dB-passband to be varied from as little as 10 Hz to 200 Hz, to as wide as dc to 500 kHz. The low-pass filter also is effective in the 100x amplifier mode, where the input equivalent noise level is only 0.3 pV, with 10-kHz roll-off.
(NOT WRITTEN BY ME)
Looks like a standard N-channel JFET being used as a diode for clip detection. If you tie the drain and source together the JFET also works similar to a diode, except you have one P-region and two N-regions.
What I find interesting is that the part number is not called out while every other part on both schematics is clearly labeled as to what the specific part number is or at least the value. Instead, for that part they apparently used the PCB part identifier label. That seems rather odd and possible a clue as well.
I have never seen a JFET used like that before. I wonder if they are using it as a Schottky diode.
Anyone know what the FET labelled E401 is (second schematic).
Well I guess it is an E401. Maybe at the time it was a good choice for use as a low leakage diode, maybe it or a similar JFET still is.
I found LS841 listed as an equivalent. Searching will turn up a datasheet for that, strangely it is a dual n-channel JFET.
If you are trying to re-create this circuit you just need a low leakage diode or JFET used as one. The LS841 gate leakage is specified at 50pA max, 25C and 20v so that's a target to match.
I just came across this new topic today: What does this JFET circuit do?
www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/what-does-this-jfet-circuit-do/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/what-does-this-jfet-circuit-do/)
JFETs were used in the same Source-Drain short circuited configuration in HP 3456A 6½ Digit Digital Multimeter as input protection diodes connected to Vcc and Vee as you can see in the service manual posted in that topic.
This Burr-Brown (now TI) application note mentioned in that topic explains why and how to use JFETs as diodes:
DIODE-CONNECTED FET PROTECTS OP AMPS www.ti.com/lit/SBOA058 (http://www.ti.com/lit/SBOA058)
Basically it's because JFETs have much lower leakage current than PN-junction devices like diodes and BJTs normally has, like Rufus mentioned.
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Hey all!
I'm helping a local non-profit build up a few arcade cabinets they had donated to them in various states of working. I already fixed up their copy of NFL Blitz 99 (Go Bears!), and the kids requested I get going on Tekken 2, and I don't blame them.
I've got the cabinet in my shop, and I've gotten it fixed up through the ROM board (get a masculine "GOOOOD MORNING!" every time I plug it in now), but the CRT works very intermittently. Checked the internals, and, thankfully, the anode discharge resistor is still working, and everything looks pretty good up until that, but then I noticed a component near the power-supply that didn't look right:
(http://i.imgur.com/mBktRf1l.jpg) (http://imgur.com/mBktRf1)
I'm betting that's why the CRT only comes on intermittently. There may be more, but I have no idea where to go once this thing gets ID'd and replaced. I've got good tools, though, and have faith in myself, but what the hell is this?
(http://i.imgur.com/L14cepWl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/L14cepW)
(http://i.imgur.com/cSZxBHnl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/cSZxBHn)
Thanks in advance! Will keep the thread up-to-date with results.
Also, this has been a pretty fun project so far, and I'd like to build up the habit of documenting my work to share, any resources for starting a new thread?
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Please measure the resistance between both "0V" taps. It might be an autotransformer (one winding, no isolation).
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Oof! It's out of range for my Fluke 179, so beyond 50 M? - Is that indicating that there isn't a short?
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Oof! It's out of range for my Fluke 179, so beyond 50 M? - Is that indicating that there isn't a short?
It's probably a 1:1; 115 V; 1 A isolation transformer.
On the multiple voltages side only the 0 V an 115 V terminals has been soldered, same voltages as on the other side, so it has been used in 1:1 mode.
What ac voltage do you measure on the between 0 V an 115 V terminals the output side when you put 120 Vac mains voltage on the 0 V an 115 V input terminals?
Doesn't look like anything is wrong with this to me.
And with an intermittent fault, I really doubt this isolation transformer is what causes the fault.
But if the transformer is broken you should be able to replace it with any standard 115 V or 120 V 1:1 isolation transformer with a 115 VA (115 V * 1 A) or higher rating.
Like these two 130 VA and 135 VA examples from Mouser:
http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS230-570/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhOD0jibV2nm8lnZ4UdaxDociGravMI74YJ9J53fBGaVA%3d%3d (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS230-570/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhOD0jibV2nm8lnZ4UdaxDociGravMI74YJ9J53fBGaVA%3d%3d)
http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/169TS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3UFJw%252bR6Egr5Hadcx0iEbk%252be6%252bvco6Ok%3d (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/169TS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3UFJw%252bR6Egr5Hadcx0iEbk%252be6%252bvco6Ok%3d)
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This wouldn't happen to be from a Williams pinball machine or other arcade game would it?
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This wouldn't happen to be from a Williams pinball machine would it?
No, he wrote Tekken 2.
http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=10060 (http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=10060)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizRCdZaw8I# (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizRCdZaw8I#)
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Google search 3P87 transformer takes to http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Playchoice-Ctop.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Playchoice-Ctop.pdf) in parts list. Schematic shows 'isolation transformer'.
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Oof! It's out of range for my Fluke 179, so beyond 50 M? - Is that indicating that there isn't a short?
What ac voltage do you measure on the between 0 V an 115 V terminals the output side when you put 120 Vac mains voltage on the 0 V an 115 V input terminals?
I'm getting the full 120VAC, which would make sense if it's working. I guess I'm gonna back-trace through the rest to make sure the full voltage is coming through (only had 65V through the two original leads). So what is this unit doing? Cleaning/stabilizing the AC?
Google search 3P87 transformer takes to http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Playchoice-Ctop.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Playchoice-Ctop.pdf) in parts list. Schematic shows 'isolation transformer'.
Thank you!
Oof! It's out of range for my Fluke 179, so beyond 50 M? - Is that indicating that there isn't a short?
It's probably a 1:1; 115 V; 1 A isolation transformer.
On the multiple voltages side only the 0 V an 115 V terminals has been soldered, same voltages as on the other side, so it has been used in 1:1 mode.
If the transformer is broken you should be able to replace it with any standard 115 V or 120 V 1:1 isolation transformer with a 115 VA (115 V * 1 A) or higher rating.
Like these two 130 VA and 135 VA examples from Mouser:
http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS230-570/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhOD0jibV2nm8lnZ4UdaxDociGravMI74YJ9J53fBGaVA%3d%3d (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS230-570/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhOD0jibV2nm8lnZ4UdaxDociGravMI74YJ9J53fBGaVA%3d%3d)
http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/169TS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3UFJw%252bR6Egr5Hadcx0iEbk%252be6%252bvco6Ok%3d (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/169TS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3UFJw%252bR6Egr5Hadcx0iEbk%252be6%252bvco6Ok%3d)
If it's outputting the full 120VAC, I'm trusting it's not the headache.
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So what is this unit doing? Cleaning/stabilizing the AC?
An galvanic isolation transformer isolates the electronics from the mains supply for safety reasons. Read more here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isolation_transformer
Repairing and working on electronic devices connected to mains voltages should always be done behind an external isolation transformer anyways, also for safety reasons in case you touch a live wire.
Intermitten faults in vintage electronics is often caused by soldering joints that has gone bad or dried out electrolytic capacitors.
Have you tried tapping components and PBCs with the handle of a screwdriver or use diagnostic freeze spray and a blow dryer to provoke the intermittent fault?
These are the most common tools for locating intermittent faults in electronics.
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I couldn't find these connectors. Are they same type?
GenRad Capacitor standard http://goo.gl/A55QCM (http://goo.gl/A55QCM)
Fluke A55 Thermal Converter http://goo.gl/8Ou6tg (http://goo.gl/8Ou6tg)
Thanks
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The first link shows some form of shielde 2 pin connector and the second link to the gen rad cap shows what looks like a female Belling-Lee connector.
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The Genrad one is a General Radio connector-----they're even older than Belling Lee connectors!
Very good,but quite large. ;D
I have seen the 2 pin one around somewhere---probably on a Fluke accessory!
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The seller of thishttp://bit.ly/1fusf3k (http://bit.ly/1fusf3k) think it is a sure GenRad 874 connector.
Still looking for information on how to connect a Fluke A55 to a DMM or RT.
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I'm attempting to fix my mums Toshiba laptop that only switches on intermittently (like 1 in 20 attempts) and the battery doesnt charge.
I have come across a bit of an anomaly with a couple of devices that are involved with the battery charger cct that look like 3 terminal regulators but have odd voltages if that is what they are. One has 19v on the case and RH pin and 0 on the LH pin, and the other has 12.6V on the case and 19V on the 2 pins?.
The parts are marked as Fairchild 1J20CB, but I cant find any reference to them anywhere.
Any help?
Allan
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The parts are marked as Fairchild 1J20CB, but I cant find any reference to them anywhere.
You're looking at the wrong part of the text.
It says:
1J20CB
FDD
6685
So it's a Fairchild FDD6685 30V P-Channel PowerTrench MOSFET: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/FD/FDD6685.html (http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/FD/FDD6685.html)
**Package Marking Convention
Line 1:$Y (Fairchild logo)
&Z (Plant Code)
&3 (3-Digit Date Code)
&K
Line 2:FDD
Line 3:6685
Fairchild Packaging - Top Mark Search for FDD6685: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/topmark/#search/FDD6685 (http://www.fairchildsemi.com/topmark/#search/FDD6685)
Here's a better picture of one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360492328840 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/360492328840)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1x-Fairchild-FDD6685-30V-P-Channel-PowerTrench-MOSFET-/00/s/NzIwWDcwNA==/z/XW8AAMXQ4YtSL5IP/$(KGrHqJ,!oIFIqib,-n3BSL5IPD5z!~~60_3.JPG)
It's probably part of a switched mode power supply, so you can't just count on measured DC voltages but need to measure the signals with an oscilloscope.
But I'm not sure if the one next to it that looks burned it is the same part number. It could also be a complimentary N-channel MOSFET instead. Can't see what the part number says on that one. The best way to find out is to trace the MOSFET gates back to the SMPS-driver IC and check the datasheet for that IC.
Looks like one had a similar problem with a Toshiba laptop here (text in Polish): http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2192501.html (http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2192501.html)
(http://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6853959800_1326736956.jpg)
(http://obrazki.elektroda.pl/3896964000_1326736993.jpg)
And another one: http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1415016.html (http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1415016.html)
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6147/20214486.png)
And another Toshiba laptop power supply repair with schematic.
Check the Toshiba laptop switched mode power supply schematic here: http://www.elvikom.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?lang=en&f=209&t=10789 (http://www.elvikom.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?lang=en&f=209&t=10789)
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Wow thanks AnderAnd.
I thought I had already tried looking for the bottom number with no results and the top number at least gave me a vague possibility. Anyway shows my lack of experience.
Thanks very much for the links, I have translated some of them and they will be quite useful once I get to understand it a bit more.
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Check for dry joints on LOPT (Flyback transformer) also could be a faulty LOPT, dry joints on main output transistor, chopper transistor, do you get retrace lines at all or any field collapse? Any faint raster on screen when it goes off?
What monitor is it, hantarex, wells gardner, electrohome?
It's not that transformer, as stated it's that's a isolation transformer. I bet it's dry joints or LOPT.
Oof! It's out of range for my Fluke 179, so beyond 50 M? - Is that indicating that there isn't a short?
It's probably a 1:1; 115 V; 1 A isolation transformer.
On the multiple voltages side only the 0 V an 115 V terminals has been soldered, same voltages as on the other side, so it has been used in 1:1 mode.
What ac voltage do you measure on the between 0 V an 115 V terminals the output side when you put 120 Vac mains voltage on the 0 V an 115 V input terminals?
Doesn't look like anything is wrong with this to me.
And with an intermittent fault, I really doubt this isolation transformer is what causes the fault.
But if the transformer is broken you should be able to replace it with any standard 115 V or 120 V 1:1 isolation transformer with a 115 VA (115 V * 1 A) or higher rating.
Like these two 130 VA and 135 VA examples from Mouser:
http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS230-570/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhOD0jibV2nm8lnZ4UdaxDociGravMI74YJ9J53fBGaVA%3d%3d (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS230-570/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhOD0jibV2nm8lnZ4UdaxDociGravMI74YJ9J53fBGaVA%3d%3d)
http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/169TS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3UFJw%252bR6Egr5Hadcx0iEbk%252be6%252bvco6Ok%3d (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/169TS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3UFJw%252bR6Egr5Hadcx0iEbk%252be6%252bvco6Ok%3d)
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SMD Diode identification, EPP 47 is all that's marked, Becker Indianapolis BE7920
Picture attached, was taken with mobile phone, do not have a digital camera handy.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/krzm94a01vecd4o/qermgHRZSY (https://www.dropbox.com/sc/krzm94a01vecd4o/qermgHRZSY)
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Ok I need help with this one. I got a Fluke 83 series I in auction that won't turn on. I had almost given up having checked all the usual stuff like fuses etc which are all fine. Until tonight I was bored checking random part values and noticed there was only 68ohms resistance between the positive and negative battery terminals. Hmm I wonder why it wouldn't start. After removing several items that tested bad in circuit, but were fine out of circuit, I came across this. It's clearly bad (roughly 50 ohms across every terminal), I am guessing that it is a bjt of some sort but my googlefoo is failing me. I apologize if it's easy but my laptop is off for warranty repairs so I'm limited to phone searches. The item doesn't have a designator number on the silk screen but it was located top right beneath the LCD.(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/18/paruhy3e.jpg)
Thanks guys and gals for your help. Hopefully I can save another device from the trash can.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
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Ok I need help with this one. I got a Fluke 83 series I
Is this any help? It gives a "simplified power supply schematic".
http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/83_85_87smeng0500.pdf (http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/83_85_87smeng0500.pdf)
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Ok I need help with this one. I got a Fluke 83 series I in auction that won't turn on. I had almost given up having checked all the usual stuff like fuses etc which are all fine. Until tonight I was bored checking random part values and noticed there was only 68ohms resistance between the positive and negative battery terminals. Hmm I wonder why it wouldn't start. After removing several items that tested bad in circuit, but were fine out of circuit, I came across this. It's clearly bad (roughly 50 ohms across every terminal), I am guessing that it is a bjt of some sort but my googlefoo is failing me. I apologize if it's easy but my laptop is off for warranty repairs so I'm limited to phone searches. The item doesn't have a designator number on the silk screen but it was located top right beneath the LCD.(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/18/paruhy3e.jpg)
Thanks guys and gals for your help. Hopefully I can save another device from the trash can.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
Not had time to look through the 80 series schematic but the 702 device is indicating on the following site as an N-CH Mosfet
http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm (http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm)
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my googlefoo is failing me.
You need to improve your lacking googlefoo a lot then, because 702 is a very easy marking to find using google. :-DMM
Simply google 702 SMD marking or include the housing type SOT23 and google 702 SOT23 marking, or simply just 702 marking.
Then you will get plenty of hits for 2N7002, which is probably the most common of all SMD MOSFETs. Very cheap and easy to find, so you're lucky if this is the only thing broken. It's also a device that's easy to damage.
Be careful when replacing it. MOSFETs are very easy to damage by static electricity. And it can just get partly damaged so you might not be able to tell it's damaged right away.
But other than goggling marking codes, the other place to start out looking for SMD codes is simply looking in a SMD codebook like the one mentioned in the post above. There's a number of different ones to check, for example:
http://www.systek.ru/marking.php (http://www.systek.ru/marking.php)
http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm (http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm)
http://www.s-manuals.com/smd (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd)
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/rch/smt.html (http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/rch/smt.html)
http://elektronikjk.republika.pl/s1.html (http://elektronikjk.republika.pl/s1.html)
PDF SMD codebooks:
http://www.electroschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/SMD-code-book.pdf (http://www.electroschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/SMD-code-book.pdf)
http://www.siongboon.com/projects/2013-09-22_reverse_engineering/doc/SMD-2012-sample.pdf (http://www.siongboon.com/projects/2013-09-22_reverse_engineering/doc/SMD-2012-sample.pdf)
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Ok I feel retarded now. I saw the links last night to 2n7002. For some stupid reason my brain though 2nXXXX is to92 must be a Google error from using the words 702 and mosfet. I blame the bourbon :D Thanks a bunch guys I've bookmaked those sites for future reference. I didn't know they existed.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
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2N7000 is the leaded TO-92 version of 2N7002. Almost the same MOSFET, both 60 V N-channel, but different housing and a bit different current and power handling capabilities etc.
2N7000 / 2N7002 / NDS7002A datasheet https://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N7000.pdf (https://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N7000.pdf)
2N doesn't tell anything about the housing type. The first digit just tells how many P-N junctions it has. So in the American JEDEC naming system 1N is for didoes and 2N is for BJTs, Triacs, SCRs, JFETs or MOSFETs (but not dual-gate).
Here's a post I made in another topic about the JDEC naming system: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/555th-video/msg335916/#msg335916 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/555th-video/msg335916/#msg335916)
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Thanks that was actually really informative.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
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SMD Diode identification, EPP 47 is all that's marked, Becker Indianapolis BE7920
Picture attached, was taken with mobile phone, do not have a digital camera handy.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/krzm94a01vecd4o/qermgHRZSY (https://www.dropbox.com/sc/krzm94a01vecd4o/qermgHRZSY)
Picture here:
(http://i.imgur.com/gDGoeQs.jpg)
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SMD Diode identification, EPP 47 is all that's marked, Becker Indianapolis BE7920
Picture attached, was taken with mobile phone, do not have a digital camera handy.
Picture here:
www.useasmallerpicture.com (http://www.useasmallerpicture.com)
Does this seem appropriate:
http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf)
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Thank you for this, makes some sense :) I wonder if excess voltage supplied i.e. 24v caused it to go S/C
This is the logo on the device, who is the manufacturer?
(http://img.alibaba.com/photo/438751853/SM6T6V8A_SMD_DIODE.jpg)
SMD Diode identification, EPP 47 is all that's marked, Becker Indianapolis BE7920
Picture attached, was taken with mobile phone, do not have a digital camera handy.
Picture here:
www.useasmallerpicture.com (http://www.useasmallerpicture.com)
Does this seem appropriate:
http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf)
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Thank you for this, makes some sense :) I wonder if excess voltage supplied i.e. 24v caused it to go S/C
This is the logo on the device, who is the manufacturer?
(http://img.alibaba.com/photo/438751853/SM6T6V8A_SMD_DIODE.jpg)
SMD Diode identification, EPP 47 is all that's marked, Becker Indianapolis BE7920
Picture attached, was taken with mobile phone, do not have a digital camera handy.
Picture here:
www.useasmallerpicture.com (http://www.useasmallerpicture.com)
Does this seem appropriate:
http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf)
That logo is for General Semiconductor, who are now owned by Vishay Technology, the above mentioned company.
The device is a TVS, it is designed to go short circuit to clamp voltages to a specified level, this one, marked EPP states 23.1v maximum working voltage, and 25.7v-28.4v breakdown voltage. Whilst designed to withstand high currents for short periods of time (to clamp the voltage), expectedly, it will be damaged under exceptional stress for extended periods.
The wikipedia page is quite helpful in regards to this device. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode)
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That explains my assumption, some vehicles are 24v obviously so this goes short to take out main fuse to save damage to the unit.
Maybe someone jump started the vehicle it came out of.
Have seen that logo a few times but had no idea what manufacturer it is, I've found the part on RS :)
Thanks again,
Dale
Thank you for this, makes some sense :) I wonder if excess voltage supplied i.e. 24v caused it to go S/C
This is the logo on the device, who is the manufacturer?
(http://img.alibaba.com/photo/438751853/SM6T6V8A_SMD_DIODE.jpg)
SMD Diode identification, EPP 47 is all that's marked, Becker Indianapolis BE7920
Picture attached, was taken with mobile phone, do not have a digital camera handy.
Picture here:
www.useasmallerpicture.com (http://www.useasmallerpicture.com)
Does this seem appropriate:
http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88407/tpsmc68tpsmc47a.pdf)
That logo is for General Semiconductor, who are now owned by Vishay Technology, the above mentioned company.
The device is a TVS, it is designed to go short circuit to clamp voltages to a specified level, this one, marked EPP states 23.1v maximum working voltage, and 25.7v-28.4v breakdown voltage. Whilst designed to withstand high currents for short periods of time (to clamp the voltage), expectedly, it will be damaged under exceptional stress for extended periods.
The wikipedia page is quite helpful in regards to this device. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode)
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Have seen that logo a few times but had no idea what manufacturer it is,
Just like there's SMD marking databases online, there's also semiconductor logo databases available.
E.g. these ones:
http://www.dibsplace.com/design/ICLogos.htm (http://www.dibsplace.com/design/ICLogos.htm)
http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/ (http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/)
http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_%28chip%29_manufacturers_by_their_logos (http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_%28chip%29_manufacturers_by_their_logos)
http://www.chipdocs.com/logos/logotypes.html (http://www.chipdocs.com/logos/logotypes.html)
http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/logos/semiconductorlogos.html (http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/logos/semiconductorlogos.html)
http://www.dialelec.com/semiconductorlogos.html (http://www.dialelec.com/semiconductorlogos.html)
http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/manufacturer-logos.html (http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/manufacturer-logos.html)
http://freespace.virgin.net/matt.waite/resource/logos/ (http://freespace.virgin.net/matt.waite/resource/logos/)
Only the last of the above links doesn't have the GS logo and the associated General Semiconductor name, but only show an older star logo for GS.
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Some useful info there, thanks :)
Have seen that logo a few times but had no idea what manufacturer it is,
Just like there's SMD marking databases online, there's also semiconductor logo databases available.
E.g. these ones:
http://www.dibsplace.com/design/ICLogos.htm (http://www.dibsplace.com/design/ICLogos.htm)
http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/ (http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/)
http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_%28chip%29_manufacturers_by_their_logos (http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_%28chip%29_manufacturers_by_their_logos)
http://www.chipdocs.com/logos/logotypes.html (http://www.chipdocs.com/logos/logotypes.html)
http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/logos/semiconductorlogos.html (http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/logos/semiconductorlogos.html)
http://www.dialelec.com/semiconductorlogos.html (http://www.dialelec.com/semiconductorlogos.html)
http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/manufacturer-logos.html (http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/manufacturer-logos.html)
http://freespace.virgin.net/matt.waite/resource/logos/ (http://freespace.virgin.net/matt.waite/resource/logos/)
Only the last of the above links doesn't have the GS logo and the associated General Semiconductor name, but only show an older star logo for GS.
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BTC 0207-010F
All I know is that it is the chip inside the Brymen-257/Greenlee-510A. Thanks.
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BTC 0207-010F
All I know is that it is the chip inside the Brymen-257/Greenlee-510A. Thanks.
BTC is most likely short for BRYMEN TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION, which is the full company name: http://www.brymen.com (http://www.brymen.com)
So it's probably some kind of custom chip, and datasheets or other documentation is usually not available for custom chips.
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BTC 0207-010F
All I know is that it is the chip inside the Brymen-257/Greenlee-510A. Thanks.
BTC is most likely short for BRYMEN TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION, which is the full company name: http://www.brymen.com (http://www.brymen.com)
So it's probably some kind of custom chip, and datasheets or other documentation is usually not available for custom chips.
Would a small company like Brymen really have custom chips? I was thinking it's a common DMM chip simply rebranded. Oh well.
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How do I identify these diodes (schottky, zener etc.), and what do the stripes mean?
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How do I identify these diodes (schottky, zener etc.), and what do the stripes mean?
Have you measured the diode forward voltage with a multimeter? Easy way to tell if it's silicium, schottky or germanium diodes. And you could reverse bias them with a resistor in series to measure if it's zener didoes.
Edit: Diode color codes: http://www.crystalradio.net/cal/diodeid.shtml (http://www.crystalradio.net/cal/diodeid.shtml)
If these codes are used with two digit type:
White - Yellow = 1N94
Brown - White = 1N19
Or maybe it's the opposite, if you star reading from the other end.
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With my DMM, I measure nothing ("1") in either direction.
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With my DMM, I measure nothing ("1") in either direction.
At the DMM diode setting?
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Yes, and I know it works because I can test other diodes.
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Those are not diodes but are spark gaps. The clue is the resistor like inside with the ring cut all the way around the middle. They are going to be open circuit till you reach the break over voltage, probably around 90V or so.
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Aha! Thanks you SeanB.
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I look parts up all the time, but I can't find this one at all! Any ideas???
It came out of a power supply so my guess is a regulator or dual schottky diode of some sort.
Sorry, the print is faded. Hope you can read it!
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N channel mosfet?
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N Channel enhancement mode Mosfet.
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N Channel enhancement mode Mosfet.
Awesome, thanks...
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A MOSFET.
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/5372.pdf (http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/5372.pdf)
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Here are two blown fuses from a device I'm repairing. They're both fuses, and they're both toasty. The top one has small cracks in it, while the other one was in two pieces when I found it.
The top one seems to just say F 1/8 A. In front and under the F is a sort of L
The bottom one has two things written on it. One side says 5A (with a strange upside down triangular symbol in front of the 5) and the other side says E 5A (or maybe F 5A) - it's possible the bottom segment of the E is another L like the other fuse.
Does anybody know what these are? I'd love to replace them with the exact right part as they go in a very expensive piece of equipment.
Thank you!
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They look like Picofuses.
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Yup. Littelfuse Pico fuse
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/axial-radial-thru-hole-fuses/pico-fuses.aspx (http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/axial-radial-thru-hole-fuses/pico-fuses.aspx)
(http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/Images/Electronics/Products/Electronics_Fuses/Littelfuse_Fuse_Pico_TL.jpg)
(http://web.onetel.com/~uncletony/images/s5.gif)
This is a safety marking meaning "Product is safe to fit on materials combustible above 200°C"
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They look like Picofuses.
Wow - 7 minutes to answer! Geeze man - did you think I had all day? Try to hurry it up a bit more next time! :P
Thanks - that is perfect. Am I right in thinking that these look to be 0.125A and 5A fuses? They look a lot like 251 series picofuses, so I think that would make the appropriate part numbers: 0251.125MXL and 0251005.MXL.
Again, thanks for the super speedy response. Much appreciated. I can't wait to get this device up and running again!
edit: a friend at Littelfuse confirmed that I have the right part numbers. Sweet!
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In front and under the F is a sort of L
edit: a friend at Littelfuse confirmed that I have the right part numbers. Sweet!
With a friend working at Littelfuse you should be able to guess the LF logo on a fuse is short for Littelfuse. :-DMM
Littelfuse is probably the best know fuse brand in the world.
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Can anyone tell me what these are? I presumably must have known at some point in the past, because I have about 15 or so of them in a component drawer where they have probably residing for at least 20 years or so, but darned if I can remember what they are, even assuming I ever knew. They are encased in ceramic or some kind of polymer. One side is flat, and the other side has a cylindrical bulge across it. Dimensions are about 10 mm across, about 10 mm tall, not counting leads, plus two points of about another 2 or 3 mm where the encased leads seem to extend up at the top. The flat part and the bulge are about 5 mm or so thick. Some kind of identifying color code on the flat sides, e.g., Brown-Black-Black, Yellow-Red-Black, etc. Less than an ohm resistance, and can't get any capacitance reading. Seem to recall gettng some kind of inductance reading when I chacked about a year ago, but (a) it was with a really cheap junk LCR meter, and (b) can't remember what the readings were. Thanks.
-- Bob, KY3R
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Look a bit like dipped polymer fuses to me.
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Hi
Does anybody know what these two SOT-89 devices are?
I couldn't find anything on them.
QK33C
QK25C
(http://i57.tinypic.com/9pvrba.jpg)
Thanks
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They are marked U instead of Q, so they're ICs.
33 usually means 3.3v
25 usually means 2.5v
i assume they're both linear regulators, correct me if i'm wrong.
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Yeah, most likely.
Probably input - ground - output and tab connected to ground. You can see the output of 3.3v regulator going into the input of the 2.5 regulator, so assume they're both ldos, probably 100-150mA max.
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So, I know what this component is (an AVR relay from a 220V APC UPS). The UPS is showing that it has an AVR relay weld fault, so I would like to replace all 4 of these relays. The problem is that this part is proprietary, so Omron can't tell me the specs. There seems to be sufficient info on the part to locate an Omron replacement, I'm just not sure what I'm looking at and how to translate that into an Omron part.
Can anyone help me decipher this?
Thanks
Anthony
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First hit using the part number g8p-1c4p from mouser.
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G8P-1C4P-DC24/?qs=CX134%252bdLMDEluPjpvK29fA== (http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G8P-1C4P-DC24/?qs=CX134%252bdLMDEluPjpvK29fA==)
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Hi
Does anybody know what these two SOT-89 devices are?
I couldn't find anything on them.
QK33C
QK25C
(http://i57.tinypic.com/9pvrba.jpg)
Thanks
Look at the bottom number R133A
Datasheet for similar device: UTC [UNISONIC TECHNOLOGIES] UR133/A 500mA Low Dropout Voltage Regulator [LDO]:
http://www.utc-ic.com/uploadfile/2011/0902/20110902012023486.pdf (http://www.utc-ic.com/uploadfile/2011/0902/20110902012023486.pdf)
The C in QK25C / QK33C shows the pinout (look at page 2 in the above datasheet).
Pin code C [QK25C / QK33C]
Pin 1 = Ground
Pin 2 = In
Pin 3 = Out
QK25C = 2.5 V
QK33C = 3.3 V
UR133/A = A is the code for 500 mA
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Can anyone tell me what these are? I presumably must have known at some point in the past, because I have about 15 or so of them in a component drawer where they have probably residing for at least 20 years or so, but darned if I can remember what they are, even assuming I ever knew. They are encased in ceramic or some kind of polymer. One side is flat, and the other side has a cylindrical bulge across it. Dimensions are about 10 mm across, about 10 mm tall, not counting leads, plus two points of about another 2 or 3 mm where the encased leads seem to extend up at the top. The flat part and the bulge are about 5 mm or so thick. Some kind of identifying color code on the flat sides, e.g., Brown-Black-Black, Yellow-Red-Black, etc. Less than an ohm resistance, and can't get any capacitance reading. Seem to recall gettng some kind of inductance reading when I chacked about a year ago, but (a) it was with a really cheap junk LCR meter, and (b) can't remember what the readings were. Thanks.
-- Bob, KY3R
They are inductors.
About 30 years ago, I bought an assorted package of inductors from Radio-Shack. They were in liquidation. Cost me about nothing.
See attached images.
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Thank you both peter.mitchell & mariush.
I confirmed that they are LDOs after I obtained an identical working board for testing.
Thank you for the details AndersAnd.
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First hit using the part number g8p-1c4p from mouser.
Sorry, I wasn't clear in my post. I've seen the parts listed under this code at Mouser and Digikey, but I'm not sure what I should be looking for as a replacement. Your link is for the G8P-1C4P-DC24 - I was wondering about the 20A and 30A notation on the original parts and how to match those up with the Omron parts.
Thanks
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20A parts are a SPDT relay, the 30A parts are SPST. SPDT is a G8P-1C4P 24V and SPST is a G8P-1A4P 24V. The SPDT relay will work in the footprint of the SPST one but there will be a pin ( pin4) that is either unconnected or which will need to be cut off flush with the relay housing if there is no PCB hole for it. In a UPS they are going to be pretty much only there for the overload capacity and the mains isolation of the contacts and frame. Current will in most cases be well below the max rating.
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20A parts are a SPDT relay, the 30A parts are SPST. SPDT is a G8P-1C4P 24V and SPST is a G8P-1A4P 24V. The SPDT relay will work in the footprint of the SPST one but there will be a pin ( pin4) that is either unconnected or which will need to be cut off flush with the relay housing if there is no PCB hole for it. In a UPS they are going to be pretty much only there for the overload capacity and the mains isolation of the contacts and frame. Current will in most cases be well below the max rating.
Thanks for the explanation. I'll get my order placed and see if I can resurrect this UPS!
Anthony
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They are inductors.
About 30 years ago, I bought an assorted package of inductors from Radio-Shack. They were in liquidation. Cost me about nothing.
Thanks. That makes sense. These may indeed have been collecting dust here for 30 years now. I think I must have gotten in on the same close-out sale that you did! Now I can go decipher the color coded stripes and see what I presumably have.
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I'm trying to find a matching connector to this, the only lead i have is it may be AMP branded (all other connectors on device are)
its 4 pins, with 0.1' pin spacing, and the plug end is shaped like a D,
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Been reading all posts on this thread to see if it has already been asked, same on the web. I am fixing a JVC Everio and testing found a component that to me is out of specs by testing with a similar one next to it on the same PCB.
The green is good, battery gets charge; red is bad no start under bat power only on AC adapter.
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PCB mount fuse? Or a burnt out low ohm resistor.
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A fuse, NMFZ007-2R5X-K , 2.5A 24V
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PA0PBZ bet me to it. I found a similar schematic for a JVC GZ-HD3 that has the same fuses .
http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/camaras/JVC%20Camcorder%20GZ-HD3%20-%20Diagrama%20Esquematico.pdf (http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/camaras/JVC%20Camcorder%20GZ-HD3%20-%20Diagrama%20Esquematico.pdf) (page 21)
NMFZ007-2R5X-K
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A fuse, NMFZ007-2R5X-K , 2.5A 24V
Is that a 0603, still learning the size aspect of smd
Don't know how much thanks to give so thanks :-+ :-+ :-+ :-+ :-+ :-+ :-+
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Is that a 0603, still learning the size aspect of smd
Hard to tell from a picture, but I think it's 0805 and the 4 parts to the left of the fuses being 0603 and the 0 ohm resistor marked '000' being 1206.
But if you're in doubt, just measure the length and width with a ruler or even better a calliper.
Here's all the standard SMD resistor dimensions in mm:
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/023/743/471/471743023_753.jpg)
The dimensions are also shown on Dave's µRuler: http://www.eevblog.com/projects/uruler/ (http://www.eevblog.com/projects/uruler/)
(http://www.eevblog.com/images/projects/uRuler.jpg)
But you don't have to work with SMD's for long before you learn to easily tell the difference between the most common sizes like 1206, 0805 and 0603 just by looking at them.
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Do any of you chaps recognize the logo on the pot in this picture? I'd like to buy 5 of them to overhaul my microkorg synthesizer, but the only supplier I've found sells them for $6 each. I'm hoping I find another source for them.
Thanks.
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They`re made by bourns .
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PTV111-3420A-B103/?qs=nqw9FAyaR8OFhofgARComA== (http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PTV111-3420A-B103/?qs=nqw9FAyaR8OFhofgARComA==)
PTV111-3420A-B103
http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80651&sid=b4bbb00148a1c0a0b6ad5b40a0d6ba54 (http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80651&sid=b4bbb00148a1c0a0b6ad5b40a0d6ba54)
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Thanks!!
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I bought a used fluke 189 multimeter from a seller https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/smiliey_dmm.gif (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/smiliey_dmm.gif) . He gave me a set of probes which don't fit in any of the jacks of fluke 189 . I was wondering does anybody know what kind of probes are these and can it be used with this meter. All the probes are marked fluke on them.
sorry for the picture quality.
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I have two burned out SMD components I need to replace. One is a diode, the other (I think) is a transistor. It's hard to make out the markings, but the board has others with similar markings, so I am going to assume these are the same. I'm not familiar with how to decode the markings and then do a mouser or digikey search for these.
The diode looks like it says A4 with a sideways E or 3. The transistor says 7CW with a sideways 83. Can someone point me in the right direction ?
Thanks
Anthony
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I guess...
7CW: http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/MMBT2222A.pdf (http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/MMBT2222A.pdf)
A4: http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BAV70_SER.pdf (http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BAV70_SER.pdf)
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Any info on this sensor? I believe it is an analog air sub-pressure sensor from an car engine air intake.
(http://i.imgur.com/EEIMO6Gs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/EEIMO6G.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/j8DzaURs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/j8DzaUR.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/QLYv3TCs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/QLYv3TC.jpg)
Alexander.
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i found a few that are similar .No info on the pcb or part numbers .
http://www.hoperf.com/sensor/barometer_16/HP03M.htm (http://www.hoperf.com/sensor/barometer_16/HP03M.htm)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-lot-Pressure-sensor-Pressure-sensor-700KPa-/121246383906?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash=item1c3ad8ff22 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-lot-Pressure-sensor-Pressure-sensor-700KPa-/121246383906?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash=item1c3ad8ff22)
http://www.apollounion.com/en/p-MS5201-SMD-Pressure-Sensor-356.html (http://www.apollounion.com/en/p-MS5201-SMD-Pressure-Sensor-356.html)
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Thanks you!
Alexander.
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This thing is out of an old 70's military radio device. The marking is "LCC 4K7". Its simply a short in both directions, no semiconductor, no capacitance...
It was built in a shielding can, like the drawing
Could it be, that it is only for a proper penetration of shielding cans to carry out/in a signal?
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Perhaps a feedthrough cap.
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i thin its a pass through cap or bulkhead connector.
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Definitely a feedthough capacitor, or maybe just an environmentally-resistant but still removable and serviceable feedthrough into a closed box.
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Sometimes my brain starts to clatter - and, ah, a few of the modules i have kept. There marked as C's with "4700" on it. But the two i have seperate, are definitely shorted. No capacitance in every respect. I will try to measure the things in the module.
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The capacitance is between the centre lead & the outer threaded case.
It is a convenient way to bypass a lead which has to pass through a metal panel.
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D'oh! Silly me. Excuse my stupidity. I think I got it :D
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http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/rarely_asked_questions/moreInfo_raq_filters4Switchers.html (http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/rarely_asked_questions/moreInfo_raq_filters4Switchers.html)
(http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/rarely_asked_questions/filters4Switchers_figure11.gif)
Fig 11. Feedthrough capacitor and feedthrough pi filter.
These prevent HF signals from entering or leaving screened enclosures via power or signal lines.
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Thanks,
any idea where I get something like that? I also wondered, how are you so sure. In what kind of application have you seen something like that before?
Thanks
These devices are used in position sensing applications, such as for laser guided weaponry or encoded machine systems (like scanning galvanometers for lasers). The position of the incident light source is calculated by determining the input current differential between the 4 segments - if the current output is equal from all 4 segments, you are in the direct centre (so for a laser guided missile it is hitting the target). I can help you with sourcing these devices. Email me for details.
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These devices are used in position sensing applications, such as for laser guided weaponry or encoded machine systems (like scanning galvanometers for lasers). The position of the incident light source is calculated by determining the input current differential between the 4 segments - if the current output is equal from all 4 segments, you are in the direct centre (so for a laser guided missile it is hitting the target). I can help you with sourcing these devices. Email me for details.
So that is a quadrant photodiode like this one from Digikey: http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/SXUVPS4C/958-1018-ND/4047472 (http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/SXUVPS4C/958-1018-ND/4047472).
I was looking for cheaper version of one like this without any luck.
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A cheap one is available in every CD player optical block.
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It's me again :)
Please name that connector type. Its on a Wandel & Goltermann PDH/SDH Transmission-/Jitteranalyzer.
Thanks!
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tnc maybe? threaded bnc?
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I got a pile of these in a bag of random electronic parts:
(http://i.imgur.com/LiKce3o.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zWRwymR.jpg)
Marked "SSC TRDU2 7906C"
I measure resistances of (multiple parts) 107.4, 55.2, 116.1,116.6, 88.2 ohms.
So they act like resistors, but have different values despite identical markings, the leads suggest polarity to me (but resistance the same both ways), and they look adjustable but I can't move them.
Any ideas as to what they are / why would anyone make such weird looking resistors?
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They are almost certainly SCRs. In a "press-fit" package where you insert the package into a slightly undersize hole in the heat sink mass. Of course, the case itself is one of the Main Terminals.
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Yep you're right - thanks! I tested them and they seem to work as I'd expect from an SCR. Any ideas on how to get the specs or are they essentially useless without? I guess I could test one to destruction then back off a lot....
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I hope this question belongs here, as it's not a component and I do "know" what it is. This is a lead-acid battery charger made for 12V batteries (6-cell), with a capacity from 10 to 50 Ah. But what I would like to know is how it charges the batteries, and if it's appropriate to use for charging a "small" 4.05 kg 12V/12Ah lead-acid battery (sealed, spec sheet: http://huanyubattery.com/en/admin/Upimg/20079121921160538.pdf (http://huanyubattery.com/en/admin/Upimg/20079121921160538.pdf) ) Is it a three-stage charger? Does it float charge? Trickle? etc. I hope someone can tell from the chip!
The inside of the charger looks like this (the rest of the unit is just a transformer):
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I hope this question belongs here, as it's not a component and I do "know" what it is. This is a lead-acid battery charger made for 12V batteries (6-cell), with a capacity from 10 to 50 Ah. But what I would like to know is how it charges the batteries, and if it's appropriate to use for charging a "small" 4.05 kg 12V/12Ah lead-acid battery (sealed, spec sheet: http://huanyubattery.com/en/admin/Upimg/20079121921160538.pdf (http://huanyubattery.com/en/admin/Upimg/20079121921160538.pdf) ) Is it a three-stage charger? Does it float charge? Trickle? etc. I hope someone can tell from the chip!
The inside of the charger looks like this (the rest of the unit is just a transformer):
The main IC there is an LM324 basically the most standard of op-amps you can find. So my guess is that the circuit is about as "dumb simple" as you can get it. I'm guessing they use a voltage reference and basically charge until that voltage reference is met. Without seeing a schematic my guess is you could build this yourself for under $2 for all of the parts, thats how cheap it is.
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Yep you're right - thanks! I tested them and they seem to work as I'd expect from an SCR. Any ideas on how to get the specs or are they essentially useless without? I guess I could test one to destruction then back off a lot....
I just found a SCR that I have in a stud mount, it is rated 16A and 300V, sop yours is likely around 10A and probably 200V rated.
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Simple, it charges at a set current sensed by the current shunt, either using a SCR or a transistor to control the current to average the current to the set value, until the battery reaches 12V, when it tapers the current off till it stops charging at a voltage of 13.8V for float charging. If it is a boost charger it will cut of at 14.4V, and then should be disconnected.
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Oh boy this resourceful forum we can't live with out. >:D
Gday
I have this controller that has a burnt IC regulator, I think, but it have a 57b6 on the ic but cannot find any information on it. I was able to at least take a pic of a working unit since the one I am working on is toasted. The only thing I do know is it can work with 1A, nothing else.
Again Thank You all.
Edit: It is IC1
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romantronixlab,
57b6 marking could be a TP4057 lithium battery charge controller.
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I'm looking for the data for an Exar switch mode regulator IC used in a Hewlett Packard product made in the mid to late 1980s.
The instrument is a HP 54120B sampling scope.
The chip is marked:
Exar 1826-1120
9042 C5280.
The "1826-1120" is a HP part number, but I cannot find this in any HP part # index I have.
The package is a 20-pin ceramic DIP.
I have an Exar 1987 data book, but none of the switching regulator ICs listed have 20 pins.
Pics are the power supply board (with several of the larger components removed for ease of circuit tracing), and the IC.
Even just a block diagram of the IC would be a big help, since I'm only drawing the circuit out before attempting to find the fault.
It's not a complex board. From the traces it's obvious that pin 10 is GND, 1 & 2 are "+5VR", and 20 is "+14.6".
At the time that 20GHz scope was built, is was 'big secrets, export restricted' stuff. I have a horrible feeling HP deliberately used some obscure/custom parts even on bog standard sections like the power supply boards, just to mess with anyone trying to reverse engineer it.
I'm really hoping that's not the case, and this is a standard Exar IC that happens to not be in my 1987 databook.
The board is from a 'not working, for spares' unit I bought recently, and it's probably this board that stops it from powering up. Expected it to be an easy fix, but then hit this mystery IC.
Edit to add: And it's this kind of stuff that makes me think this is a case of deliberate obtuseness. Here's an example of a HP part number cross reference, published well after that instrument's manufacture. What number is missing?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=92272;image)
I have the HP service manual for the 54120T, but it contains no schematics. 'Too secret for you.'
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romantronixlab,
57b6 marking could be a TP4057 lithium battery charge controller.
Thank You MLXXXp, How do I know to interpret those codes. Is there a table indicating meaning of the IC? I did find a SMD code table for resistors an diodes but nothing else.
BTW: it is a charge controller for a lithium work lamp.
Again Thanks :-+
Edit: could it be a TSM1052. Found it on digikey.
Edit again: Datasheet http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00152575.pdf (http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00152575.pdf)
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romantronixlab,
57b6 marking could be a TP4057 lithium battery charge controller.
Thank You MLXXXp, How do I know to interpret those codes. Is there a table indicating meaning of the IC? I did find a SMD code table for resistors an diodes but nothing else.
BTW: it is a charge controller for a lithium work lamp.
Again Thanks :-+
http://www.systek.ru/marking.php?work=schowfulllist (http://www.systek.ru/marking.php?work=schowfulllist) is pretty good - but it can be a bit overwhelming
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How do I know to interpret those codes. Is there a table indicating meaning of the IC?
There are people maintaining tables of IC markings but I don't think there's anything official across manufacturers.
In this case, I just did a Google search for "57b6 sot" (SOT is the package type) and got a likely hit on the TP4057. A second search for TP4057, along with your description and looking at your board photo, then confirmed the probable match.
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found this info that might help.Use google translate
http://www.radioamateur.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30785-xr1826-1120/ (http://www.radioamateur.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30785-xr1826-1120/)
edit: http://www.ashlea.co.uk/p/XR1826-1120.aspx (http://www.ashlea.co.uk/p/XR1826-1120.aspx)
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I'm a bit confused by the markings on this 4x surface mount resistor I harvested for smd removal practice. It measures 8.0 K exactly, I checked several. I was thinking it may be a poorly printed "8", but they don't measure 8.2K, they are 8.0 K.
Can anyone offer any insight?
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I'm looking for the data for an Exar switch mode regulator IC used in a Hewlett Packard product made in the mid to late 1980s.
The instrument is a HP 54120B sampling scope.
The chip is marked:
Exar 1826-1120
9042 C5280.
The "1826-1120" is a HP part number, but I cannot find this in any HP part # index I have.
The package is a 20-pin ceramic DIP.
I have an Exar 1987 data book, but none of the switching regulator ICs listed have 20 pins.
Interestingly, I crossed it to NSN 5262-01-304-8068. I found some minimally useful info here (http://www.ctg123.com/rapid-quote-system-request/?part=5962013098068) and here (http://www.lintechcomponents.com/product/013098068/18261120/28480), but further searching turns up that this IC is used in missile guidance and navigation systems (link (http://www.alicorp.com/NSNWhite/5962/5962013048068.HTM)), so perhaps that's why it's so hard to find information about it.
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found this info that might help.Use google translate
http://www.radioamateur.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30785-xr1826-1120/ (http://www.radioamateur.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30785-xr1826-1120/)
edit: http://www.ashlea.co.uk/p/XR1826-1120.aspx (http://www.ashlea.co.uk/p/XR1826-1120.aspx)
Sadly, no that's not it. The UC2823A is a 16 pin DIP. It has a 20 pin PLCC-20 package version, but the pin functions still don't match the PCB.
Interestingly, I crossed it to NSN 5262-01-304-8068. I found some minimally useful info here (http://www.ctg123.com/rapid-quote-system-request/?part=5962013098068) and here (http://www.lintechcomponents.com/product/013098068/18261120/28480), but further searching turns up that this IC is used in missile guidance and navigation systems (link (http://www.alicorp.com/NSNWhite/5962/5962013048068.HTM)), so perhaps that's why it's so hard to find information about it.
Hmm. Interesting. Though frustrating and absurd, since it's just a simple switch mode controller IC from the 1980s.
That link
http://www.alicorp.com/NSNWhite/5962/5962013048068.HTM (http://www.alicorp.com/NSNWhite/5962/5962013048068.HTM)
White Paper for NSN 5962-01-304-8068
says "unit price is $2888.00" which is hilarious. Bonus entertainment value if you click on the 'more info' tab up the top.
Oh yes, this is a secret 1980s switch mode regulator IC.
Those two suppliers you linked look like they scrape data off each other and elsewhere. A more likely source listing is:
http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/quote.php?action=search&pn=1826-1120 (http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/quote.php?action=search&pn=1826-1120)
Just for giggles, I'll inquire the price for 5. I don't actually know yet if my one is faulty, but it would be fun to cleave the top off one and see how much of the circuit could be derived from looking at the chip.
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I'm a bit confused by the markings on this 4x surface mount resistor I harvested for smd removal practice. It measures 8.0 K exactly, I checked several. I was thinking it may be a poorly printed "8", but they don't measure 8.2K, they are 8.0 K.
Can anyone offer any insight?
There's nothing strange or wrong about this. SMD resistors with only 3 digits on them are ±5 % resistors. SMD resistors with 4 digits on the other hand are usually ±1 %
These are 8k2 ohm resistors with a ±5 % tolerance, so 8k0 ohm is well within specifications.
-5%:
8k2 ohm * 0.95 = 7k79 ohm
+5%:
8k2 ohm * 1.05 = 8k61 ohm
So everything in the range between 7k79 and 8k61 is within specifications.
They probably all have the same measured value because they're all from the same production run.
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How do I know to interpret those codes. Is there a table indicating meaning of the IC?
There are people maintaining tables of IC markings but I don't think there's anything official across manufacturers.
In this case, I just did a Google search for "57b6 sot" (SOT is the package type) and got a likely hit on the TP4057. A second search for TP4057, along with your description and looking at your board photo, then confirmed the probable match.
The last digit '6' just indicates the production batch in this case and can vary from part to part.
Only 57b stays the same on all devices.
I got this info from this Chinese datasheet using Google translate: http://www.ecranic.com/files/TP4057.pdf (http://www.ecranic.com/files/TP4057.pdf)
Couldn't find an English datasheet, but found an English datasheet for TP4056: https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pdf (https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pdf)
This is is a similar device, with 1 A charge capability instead of the 500 mA of TP4057.
Linear Devices also makes similar charge ICs named LTC4056 and LTC4057, but they're not identical.
Lygte-info made a test of a cheap TP4056 based USB charger from eBay: http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review%20Charger%20TP4056%20UK.html (http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review%20Charger%20TP4056%20UK.html)
The owner of that site is also a member er of this forum under the username HKJ: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?u=24271 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?u=24271)
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I'm a bit confused by the markings on this 4x surface mount resistor I harvested for smd removal practice. It measures 8.0 K exactly, I checked several. I was thinking it may be a poorly printed "8", but they don't measure 8.2K, they are 8.0 K.
Can anyone offer any insight?
There's nothing strange or wrong about this. SMD resistors with only 3 digits on them are ±5 % resistors. SMD resistors with 4 digits on the other hand are usually ±1 %
These are 8k2 ohm resistors with a ±5 % tolerance, so 8k0 ohm is well within specifications.
-5%:
8k2 ohm * 0.95 = 7k79 ohm
+5%:
8k2 ohm * 1.05 = 8k61 ohm
So everything in the range between 7k79 and 8k61 is within specifications.
They probably all have the same measured value because they're all from the same production run.
Ah, failure to perform a simple mathematical operation in my head. I should have written it out, or at least punched it into a calculator. I didn't even consider it, as they all are spot on, right at 8K.
My apologies.
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found this info that might help.Use google translate
http://www.radioamateur.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30785-xr1826-1120/ (http://www.radioamateur.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30785-xr1826-1120/)
edit: http://www.ashlea.co.uk/p/XR1826-1120.aspx (http://www.ashlea.co.uk/p/XR1826-1120.aspx)
Sadly, no that's not it. The UC2823A is a 16 pin DIP. It has a 20 pin PLCC-20 package version, but the pin functions still don't match the PCB.
maybe this will help then,its not the same model as yours though, its a 54110D .
http://forum.vintage-audio-laser.com/resolution-pannes/54110d-deux-pour-prix-t15860.html (http://forum.vintage-audio-laser.com/resolution-pannes/54110d-deux-pour-prix-t15860.html)
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maybe this will help then,its not the same model as yours though, its a 54110D .
http://forum.vintage-audio-laser.com/resolution-pannes/54110d-deux-pour-prix-t15860.html (http://forum.vintage-audio-laser.com/resolution-pannes/54110d-deux-pour-prix-t15860.html)
That's the identical board, in fact the whole machine is very similar, just some extra 'scope' boards in the cage.
What is interesting is his pic: 54110 pcb 300V sch.jpg (54110 pcb 300V sch.jpg (28.29 Kio) Vu 767 fois)
That appears to be part of an original HP schematic, which isn't in my 54120T so called 'service manual'.
His pic above that, the block diagram, IS in my manual, identical except in mine it's called Figure 6B-11.
Found a service manual for the 54110D here: http://elektrotanya.com/hp_agilent-technologies_54110d_digitizing_oscilloscope.pdf/download.html (http://elektrotanya.com/hp_agilent-technologies_54110d_digitizing_oscilloscope.pdf/download.html)
But still no schematics.
Are you a member of that forum by any chance? If so, could you ask him where he got that schematic, and for the complete scan?
If not, I'll join, and contact him myself.
I've started tracing the schematic on the assumption it's not available, but if it can be found that's obviously much easier.
Board overlay (doesn't have part #s yet):
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No ,i`m not a member,sorry .I just found it using a google search.If you can`t get in touch with him there is a cd on ebay with the full service guide plus a service supplement with everything you need.If you take a look at the cd it has the hp part numbers. At the bottom of that listing though it says :
THIS CD WAS REPRODUCED WITH PERMISSION: COURTESY OF AGILENT TECHNOLOGIES INC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-54110D-MANUALS-BOARD-LEVEL-SCHEMATICS-3-VOLUMES-/220416346054?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item3351d687c6 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-54110D-MANUALS-BOARD-LEVEL-SCHEMATICS-3-VOLUMES-/220416346054?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item3351d687c6)
The same service manual you found on elektrotanya is available from agilent ,but not the other supplements.
http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/techSupport.jspx?pid=54110D:epsg:pro&sortKey=date&pageMode=MN&lc=eng&cc=IN (http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/techSupport.jspx?pid=54110D:epsg:pro&sortKey=date&pageMode=MN&lc=eng&cc=IN)
Ive done a google search for the 54110-90903 supplement but found nothing, not for free anyway .
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No ,i`m not a member,sorry .I just found it using a google search.If you can`t get in touch with him there is a cd on ebay with the full service guide plus a service supplement with everything you need.If you take a look at the cd it has the hp part numbers. At the bottom of that listing though it says :
THIS CD WAS REPRODUCED WITH PERMISSION: COURTESY OF AGILENT TECHNOLOGIES INC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-54110D-MANUALS-BOARD-LEVEL-SCHEMATICS-3-VOLUMES-/220416346054?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item3351d687c6 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-54110D-MANUALS-BOARD-LEVEL-SCHEMATICS-3-VOLUMES-/220416346054?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item3351d687c6)
The same service manual you found on elektrotanya is available from agilent ,but not the other supplements.
http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/techSupport.jspx?pid=54110D:epsg:pro&sortKey=date&pageMode=MN&lc=eng&cc=IN (http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/techSupport.jspx?pid=54110D:epsg:pro&sortKey=date&pageMode=MN&lc=eng&cc=IN)
Ive done a google search for the 54110-90903 supplement but found nothing, not for free anyway .
Yeah I found that ebay one too. Also this other one from Artek:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Hewlett-Packard-54120A-54121A-54121T-Ops-Service-manuals-2-volumes-/370982507560? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Hewlett-Packard-54120A-54121A-54121T-Ops-Service-manuals-2-volumes-/370982507560?)
which is for the 54121T - my exact one. Though the listing is slightly mixed up, it does say
INCLUDING a rare set of BOARD LEVEL SCHEMATICS !!!!
CONTENTS (REPEATED FOR EACH MAJOR BOARD ASSEMBLY)
THEORY OF OPERATION
COMPONENT LEVEL PARTS LISTS
BLOCK DIAGRAMS
BOARD PARTS LOCATORS
DETAILED COMPONENT LEVEL SCHEMATICS
Hopeful. 'Rare' - they're not kidding. Guess I'll have to buy it and see.
However, that partial schematic posted on the French forum seems to be much higher res than I'd expect from a commercially scanned manual schematic. I'll still ask him where it came from.
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if you can`t contact the french guy then the cd on ebay is your best bet, you can get a paypal refund if its not as described .
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And the last photo:
PWM IC.. like a 3842 pwm controller
Draw the circuit around it and post.
JLM
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Anyone know if there is a standardized connector for NEMA 17 stepper motors? Right now I have some steppers with connectors and it looks like 2mm JST but I'm not 100% sure.
Just wondering if it is a standard part or if every manufacturer has a different connector. :-//
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Just find out the model and manufacturer ,then find the datasheet, it should give info regarding the connector.
http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor (http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor)
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Just find out the model and manufacturer ,then find the datasheet, it should give info regarding the connector.
http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor (http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor)
:palm: Durp. Should've been my first step. ::)
The mating connector is here! http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PHR-6/455-1162-ND/608604 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PHR-6/455-1162-ND/608604)
Now to get a component footprint. ^-^ Thanks!
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Ok, i don't think I'm going out on a limb, if I say this is an inductor. But what is it specifically and what is it used for?
Could it be for impedance matching of RF antennas?
(http://i.imgur.com/2kcWMHO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vvqzdg7.jpg)
Type CRP 303983
TFIRX37YY UX-10035A
15 HENRIES @ 0.110 AMPS D. C.
D. C. RESISTANCE 296 OHMS NOM.
WORK VOLTAGE 11800
RAYTHEON MFG. CO.
WALTHAM, MASS.
5950-645-6213
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It seems unlikely it was made for RF antenna use.
It is notable that it has such an extraordinarily high working voltage (11.8 KV) but such a remarkably low working current 110 mA).
In these days of solid-state, it is hard to imagine something good for only ~3.5W, but 11.8 KV.
Perhaps a power smoothing or modulation reactor for a fire-bottle transmitter or something???
The color of the case and the stamp give it a military aura, like something out of a battleship?
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Wow. That's interesting. 15H? As in whole Henries? I didn't know they actually made inductors in that range :o
OT: I actually had a conversation with one of my professors about a test question being broken because it'd require a 33KH inductor to get the "correct" reactance :-DD
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I think it is a Reactor. Plenty are available on Ebay and here is a paper explaining its purpose and where it is used: http://www.ab.com/support/abdrives/documentation/techpapers/Line%20Reactors%20and%20AC%20Drives1.pdf (http://www.ab.com/support/abdrives/documentation/techpapers/Line%20Reactors%20and%20AC%20Drives1.pdf)
Could be from anywhere - old railroad locomotive, multi-kilowatt factory motor drives etc.
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i found this with a description.It is a REACTOR .
http://coilsandtransformers.tpub.com/218/00-645-6213.htm (http://coilsandtransformers.tpub.com/218/00-645-6213.htm)
Description
A coil or coils usually constructed with cores having low magnetic reluctance, whose primary purpose is to furnish an inductive impedance in power or audio frequency circuit ranging from zero to 20 kilohertz (kilocycles). Includes audio frequency and power filter chokes, audio reactors and swinging chokes. Does not include transformers or coils used above audio frequency range. Excludes SATURABLE REACTOR. For reactors with air cores, see COIL (as modified).
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OT: I actually had a conversation with one of my professors about a test question being broken because it'd require a 33KH inductor to get the "correct" reactance :-DD
I wonder how many Henries are in thing on photo?
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none! :-DD
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Ok, i don't think I'm going out on a limb, if I say this is an inductor. But what is it specifically and what is it used for?
What it says on the tin a 15H inductor with very high working voltage.
What it was made for is a puzzle. Nothing RF the reactive impedance is about 5k at 60Hz.
Could be a smoothing choke for a high voltage power supply or perhaps ballast for a high voltage tube - maybe an x-ray tube.
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Most likely a DC smoothing choke for a high power AM transmitter, used to remove hum from the driver side ( the 100mA rating is a little low for the PA side, that will be a lot more, so likely for a low power side relative to the main output of typically 10-100kW) so that you do not get mains hum modulated onto the Audio signal. Probably has a 10uF capacitor on the input side and another on the load side separate on the chassis, and is fed from the main HT rail.
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Looks like its for a HV neon lamp.
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Ok, i don't think I'm going out on a limb, if I say this is an inductor. But what is it specifically and what is it used for?
Fluxcapacitor's link includes a National Stock Number so some NATO country presumably purchased it at some point -- that and it was manufactured by Raytheon. It would indeed be interesting to find out what it's intended applications is. If you decide to take it apart, I'd be very interested in seeing how and on what the coil is wound.
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Ok, i don't think I'm going out on a limb, if I say this is an inductor. But what is it specifically and what is it used for?
Fluxcapacitor's link includes a National Stock Number so some NATO country presumably purchased it at some point -- that and it was manufactured by Raytheon. It would indeed be interesting to find out what it's intended applications is. If you decide to take it apart, I'd be very interested in seeing how and on what the coil is wound.
I would recommend against opening it. It likely is oil filled, and likely the oil fill is pure PCB oil, and thus toxic. The construction will be a copper winding over a phenolic paper insulating core, with spacers per layer and interwinding paper sheets, with a laminated steel core with a large gap in the middle or a distributed gap, all bolted together with bolts into a steel frame and spaced out from the can on bakelite spacers so that leakage to the core will not cause problems. The wire to the ceramic terminals will be in 2 layers of glass fibre woven sleeving and will go to solder lugs that are bolted to the underside of the ceramic insulators. Likely breakdown voltage of the coil to the frame is 30kV minimum.
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I would recommend against opening it. It likely is oil filled, and likely the oil fill is pure PCB oil, and thus toxic.
Ahh, very good point.
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Yeah, 15H for RF use; I should have known better.
Thank you very much, guys! (http://i.imgur.com/X1w2UKp.gif)
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Yes we want teardown! teardown! teardown! teardown!
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SeanB already offered IMHO a very likely description of the construction of that inductor. An inductor, even an "exotic" one like this just seems very very low on the list of interesting things to dissect. And the likelyhood of being filled with PCB is another good reason to leave it alone, even though there is not universal agreement that PCBs are carcinogenic.
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US navy method of dealing with PCB filled warships is to either sink them, leave them in storage until they fall apart and sink, or send them to India to be cut up by non US citizens, who die and do not appear on US stats. In all cases export the stuff away. Same way they deal with all the depleted Uranium, by exporting it. In small pieces. In war zones. Far Far Away.
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Well, PCB maybe not something you want to put on your bread but if you drill 2 holes you probably can easily drain it out. Unless it is heated to really high temperature it is not going generate any deadly toxins. I mean it is everywhere and everyone have been exposed to so much of it already. Handling some transformer oil does not create any real danger.
Also it is most likely not filled with PCB-based oil.
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Military surplus, likely made in the 1950's or so. Of course it uses PCB oil, as that was he de facto high voltage insulating oil then until the late 1970's when it was phased out.
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What could this have been used for:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERFUL-DIODE-ARRAY-LASER-BOARD-GOLD-PLATED-OPTICS-UNKNOWN-APPLICATION-/251537146876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a90c843fc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERFUL-DIODE-ARRAY-LASER-BOARD-GOLD-PLATED-OPTICS-UNKNOWN-APPLICATION-/251537146876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a90c843fc)
? Also, what kind of board is it on? That's not standard FR4. Looks really impressive though :)
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The board looks like phenolic resin, what it was used for I have no idea.
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Can anyone take a shot identifying the micro in the attached pic? It's an 18-pin DIP package and reads:
LESTER 2409
01950 V1.0
9650 L1
The 9650 is likely a date code. This is in a Invacare Action "24 Volt Fully Automatic Battery Charger" manufactured in 1997. All the other parts are easy to ID but this is an oddball.
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Most likely a re-branded microcontroller (guessing by the adjacent ceramic resonator). A PIC would be my guess by the power line (big fat line) position in the middle.
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It will most likely be a PIC as daqq said .The charger is made by lester electrical
http://www.invacare.com/cgi-bin/imhqprd/inv_catalog/partsPHII_home.jsp?s=0&partsHome=partsHome&newSearch=true (http://www.invacare.com/cgi-bin/imhqprd/inv_catalog/partsPHII_home.jsp?s=0&partsHome=partsHome&newSearch=true)
http://www.lesterelectrical.com/products/ (http://www.lesterelectrical.com/products/)
EDIT:
http://www.invacare.com/cgi-bin/imhqprd/inv_catalog/partsPHII_home.jsp?s=0&pagePostCount=1&partsHome=searchCategoriesToParts&formNbr=94-108&categoryDropDown=16484~~16484.pdf&selectedModelID=16484&catalogDropDownBox=94-108&fromPage=searchResults&partNbrOrDescr=LESTER&catalogTitle=Action+Series+Arrow%C2%AE+4M900%2f5M900+Ranger+X%E2%84%A2+M3900+Ranger+II%E2%84%A2+RM900++ (http://www.invacare.com/cgi-bin/imhqprd/inv_catalog/partsPHII_home.jsp?s=0&pagePostCount=1&partsHome=searchCategoriesToParts&formNbr=94-108&categoryDropDown=16484~~16484.pdf&selectedModelID=16484&catalogDropDownBox=94-108&fromPage=searchResults&partNbrOrDescr=LESTER&catalogTitle=Action+Series+Arrow%C2%AE+4M900%2f5M900+Ranger+X%E2%84%A2+M3900+Ranger+II%E2%84%A2+RM900++)
http://www.invacare.com/cgi-bin/imhqprd/inv_catalog/parts2002_big_image.jsp?s=0&imagePath=R1994_108_059C.gif (http://www.invacare.com/cgi-bin/imhqprd/inv_catalog/parts2002_big_image.jsp?s=0&imagePath=R1994_108_059C.gif)
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Lester 240901950 shows up in searches, but no datasheets that I could find.
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Thank you, guys. I did quite a bit of searching and missed that Lester was the name of the company that manufactured the entire charge controller.
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Most likely a re-branded microcontroller (guessing by the adjacent ceramic resonator). A PIC would be my guess by the power line (big fat line) position in the middle.
Position of the resonator doesn't fit with any PIC I know.
On the other hand, it does fit the Zilog Z86 (http://www.xinpian.net/zilog/z86/Z86L0208SSC.pdf).
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I am relatively sure these are PCB fuses but I can't seem to find the rating. Does anyone know what the rating of these is?
Thanks,
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One black band = 2A according to this:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=103953;image)
No warranties whatsoever of course...
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One black band = 2A according to this:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=103953;image)
No warranties whatsoever of course...
Thanks, this helps!
I may sacrifice one for a test! :D
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anybody recognise the manufacture logo of this microswitch looks like alps, but i can't find any datasheets about alps micro switchs
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anybody recognise the manufacture logo of this microswitch looks like alps, but i can't find any datasheets about alps micro switchs
Yes that's an Alps switch.
ALP Switch Disassembly and Assembly Guide http://projectfed.blogspot.dk/2012/12/repairing-omron-and-alps-buttons.html (http://projectfed.blogspot.dk/2012/12/repairing-omron-and-alps-buttons.html)
Repairing Omron and Alps buttons http://projectfed.blogspot.dk/2012/12/repairing-omron-and-alps-buttons.html (http://projectfed.blogspot.com/2012/12/repairing-omron-and-alps-buttons.html)
Alps SKCL/SKCM series http://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_CM (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_CM)
From this link here's an old Alps keyboard switch with the same Alps logo which has since been replaced with a more modern ALPS logo:
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/9/99/Alps_SKCL-SKCM_base.jpg)
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cheers AndersAnd i moding this agetec aracde stick to usb
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I have this device that is made by WRE (Wide Range Electronics), model 642-115. Inside is what looks like a transformer, but there is no secondary output. It draws 9.5 amps when on, is very heavy, and when on with a steel nail on it it orients the nail from left to right.
My best guess is it's a degausser. Does anyone know this device?
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I have this device that is made by WRE (Wide Range Electronics), model 642-115. Inside is what looks like a transformer, but there is no secondary output. It draws 9.5 amps when on, is very heavy, and when on with a steel nail on it it orients the nail from left to right.
My best guess is it's a degausser. Does anyone know this device?
Yes a degausser / magnetic eraser to delete magnetic tapes, floppy discs, hard drives or similar.
A "transformer" with no secondary is just a coil. In this case the coil is used to create a very strong magnetic field.
Don't put a mechanical watch or credit card anywhere near it.
Hee's a similar one with a magnetic tape on top of it.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODAwWDEyMDA=/z/UPEAAOxycgVTe25f/$_57.JPG)
the most expensive one I found for sale with a quick search on eBay is 779 USD, so you never know, it might still be worth something:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400742606111 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400742606111)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/Mjk5WDQwMA==/z/rpkAAOxyeR9TI5xz/$_12.JPG) (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MjY2WDQwMA==/z/ATUAAMXQPatTI5x3/$_12.JPG) (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MjY3WDQwMA==/z/rukAAOxyeR9TI5x4/$_12.JPG)
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Many of the final-generation digital tape media were very-high-coercivity and required very strong magnetic fields to erase the tape. Thus the high prices for what would have otherwise simple commodity degaussers (half-a-transformer as AndersAnd said.)
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Well how about that? I got it for free, figuring I could use the enclosure for something. It's not as big as the high dollar ones on ebay but still, might be worth more than I paid.
Thanks all
Bill
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While cleaning up my parts bin I found this. Curious, I wanted to see what it was so I pulled out my Fluke and measured about 11 MOhms. I then checked it again and got 7M. So I pulled out another DMM, my Amprobe, 9M, again another Fluke, 15M. I then checked it with my Electrometer, 23M, I then used my LCR meter, 3.4K, 2nF capacitance and no inductance. But the curious problem, I get widely different measured values across all my test gear which has me curious as to what this is? If anything, just out of curiosity!
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It is a diode............
Likely 1N745 200V zener diode.
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What is it ,glass? Is there any text on it beside the C D I'm imagining to see?
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What is it ,glass? Is there any text on it beside the C D I'm imagining to see?
It might be glass or an epoxy resin of sorts. It has CD printed twice on it. SeanB mentioned it may be a diode, but it does not have the properties of most diodes I worked with.
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It is a diode............
Likely 1N745 200V zener diode.
Thanks, I'll take a look at the datasheet.
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It is a diode............
Likely 1N745 200V zener diode.
Your right, it's a zener. Never even thought to check that, the coding on the part got me. Not sure I ever ran across banding like that with a zener diode. Thanks!
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(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=104304;image)
It is a diode............
Likely 1N745 200V zener diode.
Why 745?
As far as I can tell the color code is violet (7), yellow (4), blue (6) and the 4th ring looks brown (A) but the picture isn't too well lit, so I'm not entirely sure from the picture if the 4th ring is brown (A) or red (B)? So shouldn't it be 1N746A or 1N746B?
The brown or red 4th ring indicates it's an 'A' or 'B' model respectively: 1N746A or 1N746B according to this Diode Color ID Chart : http://www.crystalradio.net/cal/diodeid.shtml (http://www.crystalradio.net/cal/diodeid.shtml)
(http://www.crystalradio.net/cal/diodeid.jpg)
You can also entered the color code as an 1N color code in MiscEl [Miscellaneous electronics calculations]: http://www.miscel.dk/MiscEl/miscel.html (http://www.miscel.dk/MiscEl/miscel.html)
1N746A screenshot:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=104407;image)
1N746B screenshot:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=104409;image)
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Easy enough to tell if it is a 3v or 200V zener then, use a resistor and a 10v supply. I got the diode part right, though I probably misread the colours on it.
5, 6 what is a simple one digit error in the LSB going to do anyway............ ;)
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Great info! Thanks much! A little embarrassed though that I did not even think to check for a diode. Trying to cram too much into my day and not taking the time! :palm:
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I happened to get this board when I bought a HV powersupply for radar. I can identify all the pieces other than these black components. They're all mounted on a central metal bar which has connections at either end. The resistance between the two connections on the side is almost nothing (<0.5 Ohms). Anyone got any ideas?
(http://i.imgur.com/i5uBMMMl.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/AaYdwpJl.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/BX0V0cXl.jpg)
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I strongly suspect those are mechanical (magnetostrictive) delay lines. Was this by any chance a phased-array radar?
EDIT: On second thought, with only two terminals, it seems more likely they are inductors. Although I wonder about the use of that common bolt through the center of all the devices. It seems like that would constitute a "secondary turn" that couples them all together. Or maybe not, if it is not a complete turn/loop.
You see warnings with modern torrodial power transformers to NOT create an unintentional "shorted turn" by using a metallic bolt with both ends in contact with the chassis, etc.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r73/topcom/ShortedTurn.jpg)
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The number on top looks like a NATO stock number, which can be broken down.
5950-99-523-4132
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_NATO_Supply_Classification_Groups (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_NATO_Supply_Classification_Groups)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NATO_Stock_Number (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NATO_Stock_Number)
59xx: Electrical and Electronic Equipment Components
99: United Kingdom
The first three segments can be found here:
http://www.abtus.com/assets/downloads/2008/12/Abtus_Nato_List.pdf (http://www.abtus.com/assets/downloads/2008/12/Abtus_Nato_List.pdf)
523: Some sort of transformer?
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Wow that looks like some old equipment! What year is that radar from?
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I would be curious to know what material those spacers (disks) made from?
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Image credit goes to Robrenz. It's from the PSU thread but I can't find many pictures of these things...
Those number selector things, where do you get them and what is the proper name? I've also seen one where it has a sort of notched wheel sticking out and you can turn that, as opposed to buttons.
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"Thumbwheel" for some reason:
https://www.google.com/search?q=thumbwheel&tbm=isch (https://www.google.com/search?q=thumbwheel&tbm=isch)
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Those are pushbutton-actuated "thumbwheel switches".
In the example above, it is quite probable the switches and the "fine control" pot at the right are logically connected together as a simple potentiometer in an analog circuit.
They commonly used 1-2-4-8 stepped resistors wired to the BCD-encoded switch segments.
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I am still puzzled by those black components from radar's power supply. Hate mysteries :-) If Richard's theory that these are inductors is right then I wonder why they market pins as "S" and "F"? For inductor it should not matter right? Also I don't understand how exactly such delay line would work? Metal bar in the center is connected which means it is not just for mounting.
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I am still puzzled by those black components from radar's power supply. Hate mysteries :-) If Richard's theory that these are inductors is right then I wonder why they market pins as "S" and "F"?
The electrical connections to the rod going through the middle suggests the rod is a single turn primary of a toroidal transformer with the blocks being multiple secondary windings. S and F is likely Start and Finish of the winding, the phase being important.
The devices on the aluminum brackets look like they could be dual diodes in TO220 packages. It could be 6 separate supplies but it looks more like some kind of multiplier stack producing a single high voltage output. I would not be surprised if it is a pulse supply with a capacitor being discharged into the primary periodically.
Having searched the web a bit dumping a capacitor into the primary of a pulse transformer the secondary of which powers a magnetron seems to be a common way of generating short radar pulses.
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I am still puzzled by those black components from radar's power supply. Hate mysteries :-) If Richard's theory that these are inductors is right then I wonder why they market pins as "S" and "F"?
Start and Finish (the two ends of the winding).
For inductor it should not matter right?
Theoretically. But if there were some intended interaction along that magnetic shish-kabob, then they would probably want the physical windings "in-phase".
Also I don't understand how exactly such delay line would work? Metal bar in the center is connected which means it is not just for mounting.
Maybe it is just grounded. Especially if it is subject to some high-level RF fields, etc. Hard to believe it is intended to be a "winding" of the composite inductor. It would be extraordinarily low impedance. Unless they were running some high-current signal through it, but I would expect heavier wiring. :-//
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Then pulse will be for a pulse TWT tube or Klystron like on photo but smaller. I am not sure if those things can be called "magnetron". It must have been pretty small radar then. :-\ Sources I found on internet like this http://www.aps.anl.gov/Accelerator_Systems_Division/Radio_Frequency/Presentations_and_Lectures/Cross_Training/Documents/Cours_Presentation%203-7-08.pdf (http://www.aps.anl.gov/Accelerator_Systems_Division/Radio_Frequency/Presentations_and_Lectures/Cross_Training/Documents/Cours_Presentation%203-7-08.pdf) show that inductors used to make the pulse shaped more uniformly square, not to generate delay.
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I think I found complete description of that entire assembly!
Look at this document on page 70 where they talk about "output stalk": http://www.lle.rochester.edu/media/publications/lle_review/documents/v133/133_07_Solid.pdf (http://www.lle.rochester.edu/media/publications/lle_review/documents/v133/133_07_Solid.pdf). Center rod is output. So it is a HV pulse transformer and that thing is called "pulser stack". Design described in the paper is pretty cool - they used METGLAS cores and 90 $80 RF MOSFETs. :D
(http://canada.newark.com/ixys-rf/ixzr08n120a/mosfet-n-rf-isoplus247/dp/42M1935?ost=IXZR08 (http://canada.newark.com/ixys-rf/ixzr08n120a/mosfet-n-rf-isoplus247/dp/42M1935?ost=IXZR08))
So those black components are definitely inductors and they most likely have high-permeability core inside.
Edit: I think it is essentially non-destructive version of flux compression generator (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Explosively_pumped_flux_compression_generator (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Explosively_pumped_flux_compression_generator)). I sooo want to build one now >:D.
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The devices on the aluminum brackets look like they could be dual diodes in TO220 packages. It could be 6 separate supplies but it looks more like some kind of multiplier stack producing a single high voltage output.
The TO220 packages are BT151's - SCRs
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The devices on the aluminum brackets look like they could be dual diodes in TO220 packages. It could be 6 separate supplies but it looks more like some kind of multiplier stack producing a single high voltage output.
The TO220 packages are BT151's - SCRs
Looking at the schematics from the document I linked see it is almost exactly same except SCRs are used instead of MOSFET and also I don't see any charge storage capacitors and clamping diodes. Those big blue components on the left look like HV capacitors but they are not connected to inductors directly?
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Any idea what these connectors are? I commonly see them on laptops (mostly Apple devices). Looks like I need to repair a few and can't seem to find anywhere to buy them...
Edit: been searching some more and it might be the Pico-EZ mate connector series. Though if anyone thinks otherwise, please feel free to tell me!
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710002/WM4459CT-ND/2424928 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710002/WM4459CT-ND/2424928)
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Any idea what these connectors are? I commonly see them on laptops (mostly Apple devices). Looks like I need to repair a few and can't seem to find anywhere to buy them...
I believe those are Apple proprietary connectors since I only see them on Apple's laptops. Once I had one like those broken, it was for the cooler fan, since I couldn't find a replacement just desoldered it and soldered the cooler fan wires directly to the motherboard pads.
Edit: See this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710004/WM4460CT-ND/2424929 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710004/WM4460CT-ND/2424929)
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Hi,
I'm not sure that this is the appropriate thread for this, but here goes.
I've got an LG OS-5020 oscilloscope that I recently purchased (my first scope). It apparently had a blown channel 2. I did a little poking around and decided to swap what I'm pretty sure is a JFET between channels 1 and 2. After swapping this component (labeled "304 E7G" - photo attached), channel 1 worked and channel 2 didn't. The channel that doesn't work doesn't have a trace at all. I don't have a schematic, but there is one available for a similar scope, the OS-9020G. This schematic lists a part "2SK304E" and is the only FET in the parts list.
It doesn't seem like this part is available anymore, so I bought an ON Semi "MFP4393" which seemed to be fairly similar. The pinouts are different, so I had to do some creative bending of the legs to make sure the S/G/D pins are in the right holes (marked on the circuit board even, which is nice). There's no change with this part in place; the failed channel still doesn't display. And yes, I checked and the legs weren't shorted against each other. I even tried a MOSFET (Fairchild BS170) to no avail. I guess there's no standard pinout for FETs because the BS170 actually does have the same pinout as the supposed original.
One other piece of information is that I measured the resistance between legs of each of the two components. Assuming I have the pinouts correct, the bad one measures: S-D: 204 Ohms, S-G and D-G are both about 10K. The good one measures: S-D: about 60K and S-G and D-G are open.
I was hoping that someone might be able to confirm that this part is in fact a JFET.
If anyone has any other advice on what might be a good replacement, it would be appreciated.
-David
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Google says that "Buy-Transistors" has 7 of them for sale at £1.44 each.
http://www.buy-transistors.com/transistors/2sk304e.html (http://www.buy-transistors.com/transistors/2sk304e.html)
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Any idea what these connectors are? I commonly see them on laptops (mostly Apple devices). Looks like I need to repair a few and can't seem to find anywhere to buy them...
Edit: been searching some more and it might be the Pico-EZ mate connector series. Though if anyone thinks otherwise, please feel free to tell me!
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710002/WM4459CT-ND/2424928 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710002/WM4459CT-ND/2424928)
You might want to check the schematic... at least I know that J6500 on an M51 board is a Foxconn HS8804F-B. (http://www.fit-foxconn.com/search/Product_Details_Report.asp?P_PN=HS8804F-B&P_type=Wire-to-Board%20Connector&P_Family=Header&P_Series=WTB%20SMT%20Header&searchTypeID=4) Not surprising as Foxconn make much of Apple's boards.
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Thanks Richard! I've got two of those JFETs on the way (one spare just in case).
-David
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Any idea what these connectors are? I commonly see them on laptops (mostly Apple devices). Looks like I need to repair a few and can't seem to find anywhere to buy them...
Edit: been searching some more and it might be the Pico-EZ mate connector series. Though if anyone thinks otherwise, please feel free to tell me!
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710002/WM4459CT-ND/2424928 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0781710002/WM4459CT-ND/2424928)
You might want to check the schematic... at least I know that J6500 on an M51 board is a Foxconn HS8804F-B. (http://www.fit-foxconn.com/search/Product_Details_Report.asp?P_PN=HS8804F-B&P_type=Wire-to-Board%20Connector&P_Family=Header&P_Series=WTB%20SMT%20Header&searchTypeID=4) Not surprising as Foxconn make much of Apple's boards.
Yikes, thats a very close part! I can't find a schematic for it dang it. However I think it is the EZ mate, the text in the corner as well as height matches on a similar board. I would check the pin to pin distance but I don't trust my calipers down at 0.05mm difference.
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I've found some old panel meters and the manufacturer's name is in some sort of italics so I can't read it. Does anyone recognise it?
Cheers
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Ernest Turner instruments
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Ernest Turner instruments
Thanks!
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Hi, Can anyone tell me what kind of sensor it is that is in the photo please. Just cleaning out some parts.
Just in case someone wanted to know what the above item was that was posted late last year, It turns out to be Hall effect sensors mounted inside brass fitting.
Click above the quote link to see the offending component
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Had A dig about but cannot find full part number for:
buck/boost chip
Chip2
Also looking for the manufacturer of the inductor, since I have a couple smashed( its 4mm across the ferrite flat sides and about 6.8mm board solder to solder)
I was going to get the inductance from a scope+sig gen. combo.
I'm more interested in a spec sheet to get the maximum working current so I can substitute a more available part.
Thanks
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LT3740 DC-DC 300 KHz
http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/press-release/LT3740%20Press%20Release.pdf (http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/press-release/LT3740%20Press%20Release.pdf)
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Hi,
Thanks for the quick reply, I had actually tried maxim/TI & Linear and did not get any hits……
But this at least gets me in the ballpark for a design I can use to figure out the inductor
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U31 (chip 2) is a Linear Technology LTC3601.
LTC3601 1.5A, 15V Monolithic Synchronous Step-Down Regulator:
http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3601fb.pdf (http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3601fb.pdf)
Part marking at page 2 says: "PART MARKING: LFJC (16-Lead (3mm × 3mm) Plastic QFN)", just like it says in your picture.
Took less than 30 seconds to find this a simple Google search: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=LFJC+IC (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=LFJC+IC)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=107797;image)
http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3601 (http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3601)
QFN-16
(http://cds.linear.com/image/8385.png)
Typical Application
(http://cds.linear.com/image/8383.png)
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Much appreciated… I just don't know what is going on at the moment….. It's been a rough week……
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Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/04/330c90ecdb44f59a5a6fd9822c7f6d30.jpg)
Another, unrelated question: I've got an inductor I pulled off an old laptop motherboard. It's labeled "100PF" on the top. I imagine this means 100uH, but I've just never seen that letter combination before. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Sent from my Smartphone
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Maybe this guy: Google search "31 sot23-6 ic"
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MAX6363LUT31-T/MAX6363LUT31-T-ND/507139 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MAX6363LUT31-T/MAX6363LUT31-T-ND/507139)
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Nope, linked part is a uP Watchdog. The part I’m after would be for a boost (step-up) converter with an external switch (at least there’s an external FET connecting the output side of the inductor to ground; the IC seems to connect to the anode of the output diode, but I assume that’s for power). Input voltage range is 2.3 to 5.5V; output is programmed at 5V on this unit, but I imagine the range is 5-12V at least.
Though that Google search is bringing up some interesting results!
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Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
Same IC, same indentations, PN 31-E12... Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/6-lcd-power-supply-ic-31-e12-401f-an-22b-ip59m-hh2ca/413018_851736799.html)
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Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
Same IC, same indentations, PN 31-E12... Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/6-lcd-power-supply-ic-31-e12-401f-an-22b-ip59m-hh2ca/413018_851736799.html)
Nice! Now to find a datasheet…
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Got a strange one. What is this? It was on a data logger near the Holtek uC. There is a crystal oscillator so I don't think it's that. Just stuck me as strange.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/05/edare6ed.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/05/tybyquta.jpg)
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
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That's a crystal or ceramic resonator, for sure. See how it connects straight to the two capacitors, which in turn go to ground? It also goes into adjacent pins on the uC.
I've seen them in very similar packages.
A lot of uC's use two crystals: One for the main clock/PLL and another (normally 32.768KHz) for the aux clock or RTC!
Sent from my Smartphone
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Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
Same IC, same indentations, PN 31-E12... Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/6-lcd-power-supply-ic-31-e12-401f-an-22b-ip59m-hh2ca/413018_851736799.html)
Except that doesn't actually say what it is...
Here's the closest I could find: http://www.yuantai-tech.com/uploadfile/20130107104303355.pdf (http://www.yuantai-tech.com/uploadfile/20130107104303355.pdf)
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What is this? "Normal" pin-spacing. Might be DDR-tech.
Diode-resistance tested it, 0.6 V from pins 1-4 to pin 5, open circuit in the opposite direction. Diode array with common cathode at pin 5? What would the use be?
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Got a strange one. What is this? It was on a data logger near the Holtek uC. There is a crystal oscillator so I don't think it's that. Just stuck me as strange.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/05/edare6ed.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/05/tybyquta.jpg)
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
I've used that one... 32.768kHz crystal :) (I suppose it could be a different frequency but that's the most likely) I love that package with the see-through glass top...
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What is this? "Normal" pin-spacing. Might be DDR-tech.
Diode-resistance tested it, 0.6 V from pins 1-4 to pin 5, open circuit in the opposite direction. Diode array with common cathode at pin 5? What would the use be?
Could be used for overvoltage protection on digital lines, clamping spikes to Vcc rail so preventing latch up of TTL chips. They were quite common on industrial computers and such as protection where input lines could be routed near high current rails or have transients from hot plugging the cards into the system.
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Got a strange one. What is this? It was on a data logger near the Holtek uC. There is a crystal oscillator so I don't think it's that. Just stuck me as strange.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/05/edare6ed.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/05/tybyquta.jpg)
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
I've used that one... 32.768kHz crystal :) (I suppose it could be a different frequency but that's the most likely) I love that package with the see-through glass top...
I think you guys are right now that I look at it. The connected capacitors should have been a dead give away.
Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/09/5yba4uza.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/09/y8ugu9un.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/09/zu9avabu.jpg)
I don't recognize this logo and googling LC connector brings up a bunch of fiber optic connectors.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/09/ymydeqy8.jpg)
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
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Google "7 pin din connector" for various images and suppliers
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Google "7 pin din connector" for various images and suppliers
I was hoping someone recognized that exact manufacturers logo. I'm familiar with the wide selection of din connectors.
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
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Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
Very interesting. I am just curious why FPLC is using Deuterium lamp - would not modern UV LEDs suffice? Does it need short wave UV like <260 nm to work?
Sorry for dumb question. I just found out what FPLC is from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7vxq948l-U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7vxq948l-U) It is always fascinating to find out about some kind of rare industrial gadget.
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Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
Very interesting. I am just curious why FPLC is using Deuterium lamp - would not modern UV LEDs suffice? Does it need short wave UV like <260 nm to work?
Sorry for dumb question. I just found out what FPLC is from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7vxq948l-U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7vxq948l-U) It is always fascinating to find out about some kind of rare industrial gadget.
It is used in a multi-wavelength absorbance detector. This particular module can detect absorbance at four different user selected wavelengths from 190nm-800nm. This is very useful in determining particular compounds as they come off the column. FPLC can range from small analytical grade instruments like the BioRad NGC and the GE AKTA up to enormous industrial grade prep instruments. They are mainly used for the rapid purification of biological mixtures and reactions.
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Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
It's made by Binder-USA (http://www.binder-usa.com). Looks like their 682 series (http://www.binder-usa.com/general-search/682), but I can't narrow it down without knowing the connector size, termination type, etc.
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Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
It's made by Binder-USA (http://www.binder-usa.com). Looks like their 682 series (http://www.binder-usa.com/general-search/682), but I can't narrow it down without knowing the connector size, termination type, etc.
That is really damn impressive, I would never have guessed that was just a B. It most certainly does look like the 682 binder connector. Thanks a bunch mate!
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Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
It's made by Binder-USA (http://www.binder-usa.com). Looks like their 682 series (http://www.binder-usa.com/general-search/682), but I can't narrow it down without knowing the connector size, termination type, etc.
That is really damn impressive, I would never have guessed that was just a B. It most certainly does look like the 682 binder connector. Thanks a bunch mate!
Except for the fact that the "C" in that logo would be backwards... X-D
(That said, LC actually would be the initials for a company that does connectors: L-Com) [Not in your connector's case though.]
Sent from my Smartphone
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Hello!
I bought a cheap current and voltage monitor YB27VA 1.5 (1% error).
I cant find the main IC. i think is a MC, but the IC doesn't has any label.
I found some info of an old version.
http://we.easyelectronics.ru/upgrade-repair/voltmetr-ampermetr-yb27va-v13-i-ego-versii.html (http://we.easyelectronics.ru/upgrade-repair/voltmetr-ampermetr-yb27va-v13-i-ego-versii.html)
I updated the schematic and start to looking for the pin out ... Microchip, Atmel and ST.
i find nothing with same pinout (Vcc, Vss, Analog imput, etc...).
Some one remember this Vcc and Vss pinout in a MC?
Thx!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-81Ai6Q2tIOQ/VBIHFXphJqI/AAAAAAAAw48/Md45qNGD3oI/w749-h562-no/P9110388.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h6VgV4ozIYY/VBIHGx39OlI/AAAAAAAAw5I/w55QFDXYkjc/w749-h562-no/P9110389.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GQDDhpGtXoU/VBIHHxF8M-I/AAAAAAAAw5c/1j3Th7bijHk/w749-h562-no/P9110390.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ppSrrbLUkwM/VBIHHXxA8YI/AAAAAAAAw5Q/r8auImGiM2U/w540-h434-no/v1.5.bmp)
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Your pictures are not public available. That, or the URL is wrong...
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sorry |O , fixed :-+
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Lets start with identifying the package. Looks like a 20 pin SOIC but maybe wider.
You will need to measure width & length accurately.
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Just from the fact that VDD/VSS are 1/20 and two ADC inputs 18/19, and pin 4 is grounded, I'm going to guess it's a PIC16F6xx with disabled MCLR.
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Just from the fact that VDD/VSS are 1/20 and two ADC inputs 18/19, and pin 4 is grounded, I'm going to guess it's a PIC16F6xx with disabled MCLR.
But 16F631 has VDD in pin 1 and VSS in pin 20, and this IC has VDD in pin 20 and VSS in pin 1.
Lets start with identifying the package. Looks like a 20 pin SOIC but maybe wider.
You will need to measure width & length accurately.
(http://www.elnec.com/pics/sop-soic/soic20-300m.gif)
yes a SOIC 20 12,7x7,4 mm.
thx!
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But 16F631 has VDD in pin 1 and VSS in pin 20, and this IC has VDD in pin 20 and VSS in pin 1.
From https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/60/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/60/) S3F94C4/S3F94C8 is a possible match.
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But 16F631 has VDD in pin 1 and VSS in pin 20, and this IC has VDD in pin 20 and VSS in pin 1.
From https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/60/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/60/) S3F94C4/S3F94C8 is a possible match.
:clap: :clap:
Yes! i think you are 100% right
YB27UA S3F94Cx
Vcc = 3V 1,8 to 5,5 V @ 0.4 - 4M Hz(LVR disable)
at least 10bits ADC 10-bit conversion resolution
PIN 18 and 19 ADC ADC0 and ADC1
Internal oscilator Internal RC: 3.2MHz
Pin 4 as I/O config. P1.2 is used as input only. Or nReset.
20 pin SOIC pack. 20-SOP-375
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EL6XBayO5mk/VBQTzrTXA0I/AAAAAAAAw5w/fVvLvBwkeCo/w523-h353-no/zilog%2BS3F94x.bmp)
Thanks a lot, the same MC in two cheap chinese circuits.
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What are these DPAK devices?
Two "F5T" and two "F5T" with underscore. One of them has blown.
Couldn't find anything in SMD code catalogs. :-//
They are on MediaVision MV 4000 PREMIUM 3D vintage sound card.
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Looks like NPN and PNP transistors, probably for the output amplifier.
http://www.yjfy.com/images/oldhard/sound/Pro_audio_Spectrum16_650-0022-01.jpg (http://www.yjfy.com/images/oldhard/sound/Pro_audio_Spectrum16_650-0022-01.jpg)
Same board with 2N4922 instead of F5T:
http://www.yjfy.com/images/oldhard/sound/Pro_audio_Spectrum_16.jpg (http://www.yjfy.com/images/oldhard/sound/Pro_audio_Spectrum_16.jpg)
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I have some white coax cable that Comcast dropped off. I'd like to put new ends on it - but want to make sure I buy the right crimps.
It is labeled "Amphenol CTFC-T10 4002132 6 series (ETL) US CATV 18 AWG" - does this match a more common style of cable? Maybe RG-6? Or is there a reason I wouldn't want to use this cable? I'm worried that one mention of it I found online suggested it was goo filled for outdoor usage.
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What does "new ends" mean? F-connector? BNC?
Nobody in the universe is in a better position to determine whether it is "filled with goo" than YOU are.
Clearly the goo doesn't prevent Comcast from properly terminating it.
There tends to little or no information about these kinds of cable because they are used only by cable companies and never sold to other customers.
It is probably similar to RG-6. But good luck identifying compatible connectors if you can't even identify the cable.
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I have some white coax cable that Comcast dropped off. I'd like to put new ends on it - but want to make sure I buy the right crimps.
It is labeled "Amphenol CTFC-T10 4002132 6 series (ETL) US CATV 18 AWG" - does this match a more common style of cable? Maybe RG-6? Or is there a reason I wouldn't want to use this cable? I'm worried that one mention of it I found online suggested it was goo filled for outdoor usage.
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
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What does "new ends" mean? F-connector? BNC?
Nobody in the universe is in a better position to determine whether it is "filled with goo" than YOU are.
Clearly the goo doesn't prevent Comcast from properly terminating it.
There tends to little or no information about these kinds of cable because they are used only by cable companies and never sold to other customers.
It is probably similar to RG-6. But good luck identifying compatible connectors if you can't even identify the cable.
I want to put new F connectors on it to change the length. I was hoping to not have to chop in to the cable first in case I'm not able to terminate it (ie it being a strange style).
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
Interesting - I had not been aware that some connectors were compression, and others crimp. Doing some reading it sounds like compression connectors are much better for outdoors, which is where I'm installing this. To install compression connectors you need the compression tool, right?
I've attached photos of my cable (I have a bunch of this, not just the one roll). Is that RG-6? Is there a way of telling?
Thanks!
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F connector outdoors needs sealing with self amalgamating tape and then a coat of regular insulation tape over it, all sealed with liquid electrical tape. I use it all except the liquid tape ( insane price here for it) and the connectors come apart easily after a decade outdoors. Regular twist on non crimp f connectors and no problems. Just tape the connector, the socket to the base and the cable for about 1 inch along the PVC insulation.
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As you have already guessed, re-terminating this cable is not nearly as easy as you think it is.
I seriously question why you even want to shorten the cable, especially if it is going outdoors.
The very many significant risks of attempting this far exceed any possible benefit you would achieve.
Yes, you would need a compression tool to properly install a compression connector (assuming you can find one that will fit the cable in the first place.)
And then you ALSO need some sort of weather protection as SeanB has stated.
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I want to put new F connectors on it to change the length. I was hoping to not have to chop in to the cable first in case I'm not able to terminate it (ie it being a strange style).
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
Interesting - I had not been aware that some connectors were compression, and others crimp. Doing some reading it sounds like compression connectors are much better for outdoors, which is where I'm installing this. To install compression connectors you need the compression tool, right?
I've attached photos of my cable (I have a bunch of this, not just the one roll). Is that RG-6? Is there a way of telling?
The strange ends are just plastic knobs that are added to conventional F-connectors to make the connectors more finger-friendly for quick setup by customers.
Are you planning on using these indoors? If so, it's quite easy to re-terminate them with compression connectors, but you'll need several things to do it well: compression connectors, stripping tool and compression tool. You should be able to buy what you need at Home Depot or Lowe's. An Ideal brand compression tool runs about $15, stripper tool is about $15, connectors are about $6 for 10 connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/coax%2520compression?NCNI-5 (http://www.homedepot.com/s/coax%2520compression?NCNI-5)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steren-2-Blade-Rotary-Coax-Stripper-ST-204-205/205315702 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steren-2-Blade-Rotary-Coax-Stripper-ST-204-205/205315702)
http://www.homedepot.com/s/f-connectors?NCNI-5 (http://www.homedepot.com/s/f-connectors?NCNI-5)
And you'll want a pair of wire cutters, of course. Since you have several of these cables, cut the end off of one of the cables and have a look. Check out some of the videos (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=coax+compression). It's actually kind of fun making up custom coax.
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I want to put new F connectors on it to change the length. I was hoping to not have to chop in to the cable first in case I'm not able to terminate it (ie it being a strange style).
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
Interesting - I had not been aware that some connectors were compression, and others crimp. Doing some reading it sounds like compression connectors are much better for outdoors, which is where I'm installing this. To install compression connectors you need the compression tool, right?
I've attached photos of my cable (I have a bunch of this, not just the one roll). Is that RG-6? Is there a way of telling?
The strange ends are just plastic knobs that are added to conventional F-connectors to make the connectors more finger-friendly for quick setup by customers.
Are you planning on using these indoors? If so, it's quite easy to re-terminate them with compression connectors, but you'll need several things to do it well: compression connectors, stripping tool and compression tool. You should be able to buy what you need at Home Depot or Lowe's. An Ideal brand compression tool runs about $15, stripper tool is about $15, connectors are about $6 for 10 connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/coax%2520compression?NCNI-5 (http://www.homedepot.com/s/coax%2520compression?NCNI-5)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steren-2-Blade-Rotary-Coax-Stripper-ST-204-205/205315702 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steren-2-Blade-Rotary-Coax-Stripper-ST-204-205/205315702)
http://www.homedepot.com/s/f-connectors?NCNI-5 (http://www.homedepot.com/s/f-connectors?NCNI-5)
And you'll want a pair of wire cutters, of course. Since you have several of these cables, cut the end off of one of the cables and have a look. Check out some of the videos (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=coax+compression). It's actually kind of fun making up custom coax.
This is going to go outside, but on a covered patio in California (read: barely any rain). So I suspect I don't need to go too crazy with the weather protection (but I could be wrong!)
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This is going to go outside, but on a covered patio in California (read: barely any rain). So I suspect I don't need to go too crazy with the weather protection (but I could be wrong!)
Yeah, you should be fine. Use silicone (electrical) grease on the inside of the threaded portion, and paint some RTV on the outside of the connector after it's tightened in place. Ideally, you could wrap the outside of the connector with self-vulcanizing tape -- either the normal electrical (thick) type or the thin type (they sell it in plumbing to seal up leaky pipes) should last you quite a while.
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Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
Same IC, same indentations, PN 31-E12... Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/6-lcd-power-supply-ic-31-e12-401f-an-22b-ip59m-hh2ca/413018_851736799.html)
Nice! Now to find a datasheet…
I contacted the seller, and he sent the attached datasheet.
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Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
Same IC, same indentations, PN 31-E12... Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/6-lcd-power-supply-ic-31-e12-401f-an-22b-ip59m-hh2ca/413018_851736799.html)
Nice! Now to find a datasheet…
I contacted the seller, and he sent the attached datasheet.
It'd be wise to save a copy of that somewhere, since it appears to be the only reference to the part on the entire Internet! According to the PDF details it came from a datasheet site but is nowhere to be found there either. All references indicate the company has disappeared (the datasheet is from 2007), but some phrases in the datasheet suggest that many other companies have made nearly identical parts with nearly the same datasheets:
http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/RICHTEK/RT9266GE.pdf (http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/RICHTEK/RT9266GE.pdf)
http://www.hotchip.com.cn/DownFiles/HT9266_SPEC_english_1.0.pdf (http://www.hotchip.com.cn/DownFiles/HT9266_SPEC_english_1.0.pdf)
http://www.hoperf.cn/upload/ldodc/HD9266.pdf (http://www.hoperf.cn/upload/ldodc/HD9266.pdf)
http://pdf.dzsc.com/ML9/ML9266.pdf (http://pdf.dzsc.com/ML9/ML9266.pdf)
http://www.keyen.com.tw/upload/11/file233.pdf (http://www.keyen.com.tw/upload/11/file233.pdf)
http://www.chipfly.com.cn/File.asp?Id=10 (http://www.chipfly.com.cn/File.asp?Id=10)
http://www.eorex.com/downloads/datasheets/power/EP4001.pdf (http://www.eorex.com/downloads/datasheets/power/EP4001.pdf)
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I've got quite a few (10,000?) ICS612G-01T, that I'd like to be able to either use, or toss with a clear conscience.
They're from ICS (Integrated Circuit Systems ), date-coded 0407, so just before IDT bought out ICS.
TSSOP16 package, and I'd imagine they're a crystal oscillator stage, and a couple (or more) PLL stages, possibly programmable by pin strapping, or maybe (ideally!) programmable by i2c. It'd be nice to be able to drop them into designs where I can cope with oddball frequencies...
Office and company moves mean I don't have paper databooks from that era, and searching has come up dry, apart from people in far-off lands who want to sell me their stock.
So: Has any kind soul got, or got access to, ICS/IDT timing products databooks from 2007 or a bit later? ICS216G is what I'm after...
I'd be happy to barter a reel of these parts, or something else from my stash, for an answer!
Cheers!
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There is a bunch of very similar ICS IC's listed as LOW PHASE NOISE CLOCK MULTIPLIER here:
http://www.utsource.net/pdf/pdf-ICS614M-01T.html (http://www.utsource.net/pdf/pdf-ICS614M-01T.html)
Hope that helps.
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It's shown on page 45 in this service manual : http://www.download-service-manuals.com/en/manual.php?file=Philips-4052.pdf (http://www.download-service-manuals.com/en/manual.php?file=Philips-4052.pdf)
Maybe it helps a bit.
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There is a bunch of very similar ICS IC's listed as LOW PHASE NOISE CLOCK MULTIPLIER here:
http://www.utsource.net/pdf/pdf-ICS614M-01T.html (http://www.utsource.net/pdf/pdf-ICS614M-01T.html)
Hope that helps.
Yeah, unfortunately not, I had a play with one on a breakout board, nothing good happened!
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It's shown on page 45 in this service manual : http://www.download-service-manuals.com/en/manual.php?file=Philips-4052.pdf (http://www.download-service-manuals.com/en/manual.php?file=Philips-4052.pdf)
Maybe it helps a bit.
Ooh, that's sort of promising, thanks!
Although, if that's true, it's a multi-output 16.9344MHz to 27MHz converter, that takes enough 5V to need a local 100uF decoupler!
Still. that's enough information to trigger the bounty - where would you like your reel of these marvellous devices posted to? :)
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Still. that's enough information to trigger the bounty - where would you like your reel of these marvellous devices posted to? :)
Well... You know... I think I have to pass on this generous offer, but thanks anyway :-+
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Hello,
I am looking for the model number or type of this connector:
http://www.back2gaming.com/wp-content/gallery/razer-hydra/razer_hydra21.jpg (http://www.back2gaming.com/wp-content/gallery/razer-hydra/razer_hydra21.jpg)
(sorry for the crappy image, I don't have the device here to take a proper pic)
Here is the receptacle next to a regular micro USB connector (micro USB on the left):
http://voz.vn/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/RazerHydra-4.jpg (http://voz.vn/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/RazerHydra-4.jpg)
It is a connector used on the Razer Hydra game controller. It has 7 pins, it is slightly larger than a regular micro USB, shaped like a smaller version of a HDMI connector.
Is this something off-the-shelf or did Razer invest into a proprietary connector? I was searching for something similar at DigiKey, but couldn't find anything.
Any tips are appreciated.
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Curious if anyone knows the make or type of these resistors. They are from the detector module on a PerkinElmer UV-Vis. Trying to figure out if anything is worth salvaging.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/3f345f58bc94d5f9b5da48cfc43ad2b8.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/770033ade3efe8826318d7520b6ac611.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/b7a22c3b733ec78bb55c66ba47e6d7fe.jpg)
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Those are high value precision ceramic resistors especially since they appear next to those lovely precision BurrBrown OpAmps ($45/piece new) . I would keep them together with the board till I actually have specific use for them otherwise you maybe just wasting time by de-soldering something you will never ever use. If you want to sell them on Ebay - just cut out whole section of PCB with resistors and OpAmps and sell it with everything still soldered on - it worth more this way IMO.
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Those are high value precision ceramic resistors especially since they appear next to those lovely precision BurrBrown OpAmps ($45/piece new) . I would keep them together with the board till I actually have specific use for them otherwise you maybe just wasting time by de-soldering something you will never ever use. If you want to sell them on Ebay - just cut out whole section of PCB with resistors and OpAmps and sell it with everything still soldered on - it worth more this way IMO.
Yeah I could tell there are high value, the highest being 1.9G I guess. I was wondering if I could find the precision, temp coeff, etc. for them or if there are datasheets are available. Since there is no manufacturer mark, I figured it was a long shot at best. The op-amps are very nice looking. Additionally, on the other side of the board are a pair of Hamamatsu S1226-44BQ extended UV range silicon photodiodes (3.6mm by 3.6mm detector area).
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/6df14135ff1d2aa87444f1ddc65c49bf.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/0c4ad5b5d11f4371b7af88d439d3b975.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/cf78b5022546d5364645968b6d7f9ccc.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/f8779fc7376702e13798630fe66f5faa.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/0b75b50d9fa217602019d20867fb0dad.jpg)
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Looks like a floating Relay controlled DAC precision gain differential amplifier. Reminds me of a SCADA system I designed for remote controlling Lambda PS using HP rack and HP9825 circa 1978... Part of a research pre-launch rocket control system.
But Perkin Elmer uses for gas analyzers
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remote controlling Lambda PS
What is "Lambda PS"? Lambda brand Power Supply? 1978 - I was 5 y old, cannot recall if there were better choices of photo-diodes for optical links besides UV-enhanced ones :-) Really curious WHY god WHY !?
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Looking to identify these:
Q101N
L8E008
L8E003, I suspect it is a 'PJ0Q' TI LOW-DROPOUT REGULATOR
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In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
These are used for corner deflection correction magnets controlled by the CRT controller with front panel display. Use Dead Pixel Tester (free) dpt.exe to test all,Monitors for alignment and for LCD's useful for pixel sync testing (alternate black whiTe pixel pattern is the best pattern ) and Gamma Correction test patterns with gradient colours. Use Monitor correction to make a picture perfect calibration. Pin corner correction?
Also There are also ,Common Mode CM, chokes to suppress EMI from the video RGB 50 Ohm signals on VGA cables which carry pixel clock analog DAC rates. DAC clock rate = number of pixels on screen * refresh rate e.g. 1920*1080*60Hz > 120MHz. They are either snap clamped or molded plastic 2 split C ferrite cores.
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Can anyone help me identify this mosfet pack?
It's an 8-pin MLPD (or DFN or similar) dual N-channel mosfet pack, >30A, used in a 12V->5V synchronous buck converter. Markings read B6350D (or it could be 863500; the markings are really faded). I can't find anything at all on Google. If anyone could point me in the direction of a datasheet or even just the name of the manufacturer I'd be much obliged.
Sorry for the crap picture, I can take a better one with my macro lens if needed.
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Can anyone help me identify this mosfet pack?
It's an 8-pin MLPD (or DFN or similar) dual N-channel mosfet pack, >30A, used in a 12V->5V synchronous buck converter. Markings read B6350D (or it could be 863500; the markings are really faded). I can't find anything at all on Google. If anyone could point me in the direction of a datasheet or even just the name of the manufacturer I'd be much obliged.
Sorry for the crap picture, I can take a better one with my macro lens if needed.
You mentioned B6350D and 863500, but it never occured to you the right answer might be a combination of your two suggestions: 86350D or B63500? :palm:
It took me less than 30 seconds to google this part and find it at TI's homepage, using "86350D mosfet" as the first search term.
The marking is most likely CSD86350Q5D Synchronous Buck NexFET™ Power Block MOSFET Pair http://www.ti.com/product/csd86350q5d (http://www.ti.com/product/csd86350q5d)
'D' at the end of the part number could stand for 'Dual MOSFET'.
(http://www.ti.com/graphics/folders/partimages/CSD86350Q5D.jpg) (http://www.ti.com/ds_dgm/images/alt_slps223e.gif)
Looks like your module from a Cooler Master PC power supply:
http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/modular-vs-series/v550s/ (http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/modular-vs-series/v550s/)
http://www.gamersky.com/hardware/201405/365642_14.shtml (http://www.gamersky.com/hardware/201405/365642_14.shtml)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what%27s-this-please-%28component-advice%29/?action=dlattach;attach=116953;image)
(http://img1.gamersky.com/image2014/05/20140525zy_1/gamersky_059origin_117_20145251453125.jpg)
http://www.itocp.com/htmls/02/n-5302-5.html (http://www.itocp.com/htmls/02/n-5302-5.html)
(http://www.itocp.com/html/20140409/article/V550/images/17.jpg)
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The marking is most likely CSD86350Q5D Synchronous Buck NexFET™ Power Block MOSFET Pair
Good find, the pinout matches too:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=116935;image)
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Haha, I tried B6350D, B63500, and 863500, but somehow I missed 86350D. |O :-DD Thanks
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I bought this on eBAY, so lets have a little 4000 series challenge. I have not been able to find a datasheet on this, the only pinout i have found seems very similar to the CD4034 bus exchange chip. Have fun!
CD4036AE
RCA 845
(24-DIP)
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Found it mentioned as a memory module here (http://www.google.com/patents/US3973205)...
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I bought this on eBAY, so lets have a little 4000 series challenge. I have not been able to find a datasheet on this, the only pinout i have found seems very similar to the CD4034 bus exchange chip. Have fun!
CD4036AE
RCA 845
(24-DIP)
Too easy... 1st search found this.... http://www.maxim4u.com/download.php?id=1560999&pdfid=AEF0F16A3D0BB7F6BA69C03D02758254&file=0282%5Ccd4036a_622111.pdf (http://www.maxim4u.com/download.php?id=1560999&pdfid=AEF0F16A3D0BB7F6BA69C03D02758254&file=0282%5Ccd4036a_622111.pdf)
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Interesting... the https://archive.org/details/RcaCmosI.c.Databook1983 (https://archive.org/details/RcaCmosI.c.Databook1983) lists CD4036A once but the page for it was replaced with the datasheet for another IC, but the datasheet is present in this other databook (http://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/pdf/rca/_dataBooks/1982_RCA_CMOS_Microprocessors_Memories_and_Peripherals.pdf). Somehow that number seems to have gotten lost.
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Thanks to everyone, I missed checking the one site.
The problem seems to be that the part #'s were overloaded/exchanged at some point. The CD4039 is also a similar device, and if you search CD4039, the datasheet for both devices (CD4036/4039) is the first hit. If you search CD4036, you get a bunch of "dealers" and "brokers" type sites.
The patent hints at the true use of the devices: TV channel storage for Zenith TV's
If you would like to buy mystery vintage chips, this is where I got the chip from:
http://stores.ebay.com/acpsurplus/ (http://stores.ebay.com/acpsurplus/)
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I found this 2 device among other RF/microwave stuff. Some of it is from 1970, but some more recent. It is 2 port ( 2 SMA connectors ) device/assembly, has 2 strong magnets on both sides and inside something that looks like a circulator. I am not sure of the purpose of magnets also 3 components are mounted inside one half and soldered on top. They could be resistors or capacitors.
Here are photos of mystery device. What it is?
-
RF isolator. It is a circulator with the middle port attached to a terminating resistor so that power only flows through in one direction. reverse power is dissipated in the resistor. Magnets are part of the circulator.
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Thanks, it make sense.
I did some reading on it - appears to be that circulator with magnets is a particular kind known since 1950s. I have seen microstrip-based circulators that had no magnets. I understand that purpose of magnets is to separate signals by means of Faraday effect in microwaves. Still I am puzzled what those round components are? Small rectangular piece of ceramic material with a slit through which copper trace is passing through - I assume it is for filtering? Red SMD components that looks to me like 50 or 100 ohm resistor does not show up as such when I tried to probe it in circuit.
Are there modern circulators that are made using this technology?
I got a clue from looking at some photos that it could be made by "Aertech".
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Round components are likely trimmer capacitors to match the striplines and minimise the return signal. Red components are likely either a capacitor with a terminating resistor. built in, or a lossy capacitor.
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Does anyone recognize the logo on these OPTO chips?
It's inside the pin one designation and looks like a laid back 4.
New old stoke that I procured and I haven't seen that logo before.
Cheers,
Phil
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Is that really a 1960 date code on the LM316D?
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Does anyone recognize the logo on these OPTO chips?
It's inside the pin one designation and looks like a laid back 4.
New old stoke that I procured and I haven't seen that logo before.
Cheers,
Phil
Fairchild FCD820/FCD820C (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/51231/FAIRCHILD/FCD820.html).
Is that really a 1960 date code on the LM316D?
No, more likely 1976/1977. National wasn't even making opamps in 1960.
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Does anyone recognize the logo on these OPTO chips?
It's inside the pin one designation and looks like a laid back 4.
New old stoke that I procured and I haven't seen that logo before.
Cheers,
Phil
Fairchild FCD820/FCD820C (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/51231/FAIRCHILD/FCD820.html).
(http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20070327080501/howto/en/images/4/47/Ic_manuf_logo--Fairchild_Semi-1.gif)
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Thanks guys,
The logo makes a lot more sense when you look at it the right way up. :palm:
Cheers for the date codes as well.
Phil
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Thanks guys,
The logo makes a lot more sense when you look at it the right way up. :palm:
Cheers for the date codes as well.
Phil
Semiconductor Manufacturer Logos
http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/ (http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/) | http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/manufacturer-description/?manuf=Fairchild (http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/manufacturer-description/?manuf=Fairchild)
http://www.dibsplace.com/design/ICLogos.htm (http://www.dibsplace.com/design/ICLogos.htm)
http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_%28chip%29_manufacturers_by_their_logos/K-O (http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_%28chip%29_manufacturers_by_their_logos/K-O)
http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/logos/semiconductorlogos.html (http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/logos/semiconductorlogos.html)
https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/manufacturer-logos.html (https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/manufacturer-logos.html)
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Anyone know what this chip is? I've searched both lines separately and together but can't find any info on it. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/25/4f860973e185dc24cc3650096aec5948.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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SOIC 14 Package?
Photo not quite shows the whole package.
Add the package description to your search.
There is an F183 PIC in 14 pin SOIC that my search revealed but dont't take it as the answer yet.
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SOIC 14 Package?
Photo not quite shows the whole package.
Add the package description to your search.
There is an F183 PIC in 14 pin SOIC that my search revealed but dont't take it as the answer yet.
The chip has 16 pins, trying to take a picture through a magnifying glass with an iphone is surprisingly hard.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It is frequently helpful to know the CONTEXT here! What kind of gadget is this? What does the rest of the board look like?
From the partial photo, it looks like a really low-end, mass-produced consumer board, which makes it quite possible those are indecipherable house-numbers.
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Does anyone recognize the type and the maker of the following pot? It is the focus control of a Hameg HM605 oscilloscope. The two pin are just for mounting purposes.
(http://i.imgur.com/EjVEkjTs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/EjVEkjT.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/Y2EnX8gs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/Y2EnX8g.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/XaXzuTas.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/XaXzuTa.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/tH32gvWs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/tH32gvW.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/wZ5PxiMs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/wZ5PxiM.jpg)
Alexander.
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Does anyone recognize the type and the maker of the following pot? It is the focus control of a Hameg HM605 oscilloscope. The two pin are just for mounting purposes.
(http://i.imgur.com/EjVEkjTs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/EjVEkjT.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/Y2EnX8gs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/Y2EnX8g.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/XaXzuTas.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/XaXzuTa.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/tH32gvWs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/tH32gvW.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/wZ5PxiMs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/wZ5PxiM.jpg)
Alexander.
Looks similar to the bushless version of Piher PC-16: http://www.piher.net/sensors/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=26&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31 (http://www.piher.net/sensors/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=26&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31)
With the exception that the 2 mounting pins at the top are wider spaced than the outer 2 pins at the bottom.
(http://piher.net/sensors/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/PC16_4af167d32f86d.png) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what%27s-this-please-%28component-advice%29/?action=dlattach;attach=127812;image)
You can download the manuals including schematics and PCB-layouts for all Hameg scopes here http://www.hameg.com/manuals.0.html?&no_cache=1 (http://www.hameg.com/manuals.0.html?&no_cache=1)
But please note, they do not include schematics in any non-German manuals. So you need to also download the German HM605 manual to get the schematics and PCB-layouts at the end of the manual.
The focus potentiometer in HM605 is part number VR601 and it's placed on the Z-board. It looks like it is connected to -1250V at through a 392k resistor at one side, so you might need a high voltage approved potentiometer to be safe.
But is the potentiometer broken? Usually it's one of the high value resistors in series with the focus potentiometer going open circuit that causes focus problems. That's a common problem with high value resistors. I've worked at a audio and television manufacturer that had a design rule to never use resistors above 1 Mohm (IIRC) for the same reason, because they often break by going open circuit. Something you usually don't learn while studying, but learn the hard way. At some point someone forgot this design rule in a product and it was overlook in design reviews. So this design made it all the way to production. And as a result a lot of products soon came if for repair with an open circuit high value resistor as a result. Actually I don't know if this is only a problem with high value carbon resistors, or if it's also a problem with metal film resistors. Anybody know or has any experience with this?
At least I do know from experience that regular 1/4W 5% carbon film resistors above 1 Mohm often break with a open circuit after only a short while for no apparent reason, so these high value resistors are very unreliable. So if someone needed >1 Mohm in a design, instead two or more <= 1 Mohm resistors in parallel or series should always be used for reliability reasons.
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Looks similar to the bushless version of Piher PC-16: http://www.piher.net/sensors/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=26&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31 (http://www.piher.net/sensors/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=26&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31)
With the exception that the 2 mounting pins at the top are wider spaced than the outer 2 pins at the bottom.
(http://piher.net/sensors/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/PC16_4af167d32f86d.png) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what%27s-this-please-%28component-advice%29/?action=dlattach;attach=127812;image)
You can download the manuals including schematics and PCB-layouts for all Hameg scopes here http://www.hameg.com/manuals.0.html?&no_cache=1 (http://www.hameg.com/manuals.0.html?&no_cache=1)
But please note, they do not include schematics in any non-German manuals. So you need to also download the German HM605 manual to get the schematics and PCB-layouts at the end of the manual.
The focus potentiometer in HM605 is part number VR601 and it's placed on the Z-board. It looks like it is connected to -1250V at through a 392k resistor at one side, so you might need a high voltage approved potentiometer to be safe.
But is the potentiometer broken? Usually it's one of the high value resistors in series with the focus potentiometer going open circuit that causes focus problems. That's a common problem with high value resistors. I've worked at a audio and television manufacturer that had a design rule to never use resistors above 1 Mohm (IIRC) for the same reason, because they often break by going open circuit. Something you usually don't learn while studying, but learn the hard way. At some point someone forgot this design rule in a product and it was overlook in design reviews. So this design made it all the way to production. And as a result a lot of products soon came if for repair with an open circuit high value resistor as a result. Actually I don't know if this is only a problem with high value carbon resistors, or if it's also a problem with metal film resistors. Anybody know or has any experience with this?
At least I do know from experience that regular 1/4W 5% carbon film resistors above 1 Mohm often break with a open circuit after only a short while for no apparent reason, so these high value resistors are very unreliable. So if someone needed >1 Mohm in a design, instead two or more <= 1 Mohm resistors in parallel or series should always be used for reliability reasons.
Thanks you for you answer and you effort to help me! I already own the service manuals (German) for this oscilloscope. When the focus problem occurred I was sure that it was one of the resistors that went wrong (R609 to R613 or R615). Gut no. It was VR601. One of the pins wasn't making contact with the graphite inside. I replaced the pot with a 470k one (high voltage from an old CRT tv) and it works fine now. The problem is that the shaft for controlling the focus doesn't much.
I want to buy a "non working" HM605 for spare parts, but usually the sellers don;t ship outside Germany.
Alexander.
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I want to buy a "non working" HM605 for spare parts, but usually the sellers don;t ship outside Germany.
A lot of German eBay sellers will ship outside Germany if you ask them about the shipping costs to your country, even though the auction often states they don't ship outside Germany. But that's just because many won't go through the trouble of filling in shipping costs to several countries, unless someone is interested or because they don't think anyone is willing to pay for international shipping of the item they sell.
I've often experienced this myself when asking eBay sellers who doesn't list international shipping.
As an alternative you can use a German mail forwarder like, so you can send it to their German adress and they will forward it to your address abroad: http://mailboxde.com (http://mailboxde.com)
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I have noticed that you will not be able to bid on an item with "Germany Only"-shipping unless you set your country to Germany.
And it seems to be a total bitch to fill out the "More than one country"-shipping in the a no-initial-cost auction, and many sellers do not particularity enjoy reading/writing English...
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It's not always because of any laziness on the seller's part... international shipping (at least here in the US) is a pain in the rear. The customs forms, invoices and all that combine to make international shipping a somewhat time-consuming activity. On top of that, the delays due to customs may be significant, leading to negative feedback while the item is in transit.
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It's not always because of any laziness on the seller's part...
Well, when you see an hour or two of work ahead of you to find and enter that information and give up, I would not call that lazy...
international shipping (at least here in the US) is a pain in the rear. The customs forms, invoices and all that combine to make international shipping a somewhat time-consuming activity. On top of that, the delays due to customs may be significant, leading to negative feedback while the item is in transit.
Compare:
Solartron 7075 within Germany: 6:99 EUR (DHL)
To normal EU: 21:99 EUR (DHL)
Sweden, domestic: 235 SEK (~24 EUR) (Posten)
Sweden to Germany: 685 SEK WTF!!
Within EU no customs or VAT.
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Those shipping cost are atrocious, that is over 3x the amount to ship my 7065 across the country. Heck i could ship it to Canada cheaper.
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It's not always because of any laziness on the seller's part... international shipping (at least here in the US) is a pain in the rear. The customs forms, invoices and all that combine to make international shipping a somewhat time-consuming activity.
As a private seller you don't have to fill out any custom forms or VAT forms when shipping abroad, at least here in Europe. You only have to attach a invoice, so customs in the receiving country can figure out the value and import duty and VAT if any. And auto creating a complete invoice from an eBay auction is very easy, you just have to hit a button once the auction has ended and print it. So this really isn't an issue at all.
And if you as a private person sell to another EU country there's no import duties or VAT involved at all. However if you are a business and sell over a certain amount annually to another EU country you have to charge the VAT rate of the receiving EU country. But this is not an issue as a private seller.
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As a private seller you don't have to fill out any custom forms or VAT forms when shipping abroad, at least here in Europe. You only have to attach a invoice, so customs in the receiving country can figure out the value and import duty and VAT if any. And auto creating a complete invoice from an eBay auction is very easy, you just have to hit a button once the auction has ended and print it. So this really isn't an issue at all.
This isn't completely true. It may depend on country, but when I was sending a small package to US from France, the post was demanding me to fill an entire customs declaration for it because it was going outside of the EU customs union. The paperwork can be pretty significant if sending anything worth more than about 100 euro outside of EU.
There is pretty much the same procedure if you are sending something by DHL or UPS. You must fill a ton of paperwork related to customs. The transporter will handle the actual customs for you (and the recipient pays for it!), but still. Oh and God protect you if the customs don't like something on the declaration, then the true nightmare starts.
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As a private seller you don't have to fill out any custom forms or VAT forms when shipping abroad, at least here in Europe. You only have to attach a invoice, so customs in the receiving country can figure out the value and import duty and VAT if any. And auto creating a complete invoice from an eBay auction is very easy, you just have to hit a button once the auction has ended and print it. So this really isn't an issue at all.
This isn't completely true. It may depend on country, but when I was sending a small package to US from France, the post was demanding me to fill an entire customs declaration for it because it was going outside of the EU customs union. The paperwork can be pretty significant if sending anything worth more than about 100 euro outside of EU.
Yeah, same deal for me... full customs form filled out with copies, with signature and invoice. USPS doesn't provide tracking except for the higher-$ shipping tiers, and with eBay & PayPal rules, the purchaser can simply claim they didn't receive it and get a full refund.
I guess eBay may have improved the process, and shipping within the EU may be easier than shipping to the EU from outside, but time and risk typically increase with shipping distance. I'm a long way from Europe.
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I'm wondering what this part is. I've googled the part number but I've found nothing, which is odd as it is a TI part. It seems to be connected to the output of the fpga in a Siglent function generator. Here's a picture (not mine): http://sigrok.org/wimg/a/a6/Siglent_sdg1010_analog_ti_d85801.jpg (http://sigrok.org/wimg/a/a6/Siglent_sdg1010_analog_ti_d85801.jpg)
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I'm wondering what this part is. I've googled the part number but I've found nothing, which is odd as it is a TI part. It seems to be connected to the output of the fpga in a Siglent function generator. Here's a picture (not mine): http://sigrok.org/wimg/a/a6/Siglent_sdg1010_analog_ti_d85801.jpg (http://sigrok.org/wimg/a/a6/Siglent_sdg1010_analog_ti_d85801.jpg)
DAC8580? http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dac8580.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dac8580.pdf)
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I'm wondering what this part is. I've googled the part number but I've found nothing, which is odd as it is a TI part. It seems to be connected to the output of the fpga in a Siglent function generator. Here's a picture (not mine): http://sigrok.org/wimg/a/a6/Siglent_sdg1010_analog_ti_d85801.jpg (http://sigrok.org/wimg/a/a6/Siglent_sdg1010_analog_ti_d85801.jpg)
DAC8580? http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dac8580.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dac8580.pdf)
Yep, that's it. Thanks :-+
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It's a crystal, but why 4 pins? Is it smart in any way? Does anyone know of a datasheet?
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It's a crystal, but why 4 pins? Is it smart in any way? Does anyone know of a datasheet?
It is an oscillator. Not sure whether it operates at 3.3V or 5V and what kind of output it has (TTL/CMOS/...).
Unless someone can find the datasheet for that specific SE-TIME oscillator, i would suggest to find out by experimentation (start with 3.3V to avoid magic smoke). Use datasheets from other oscillators (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv139=243&FV=fff4000d%2Cfff8016e%2C1140050&k=oscillator&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25) as reference for the pinout and operational characteristics. I expect this oscillator to be compatible both in pins and operations with oscillators of the same type from other manufacturers.
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Thanks!
Using the pinout of this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECS-100AX-500/X951-ND/827244 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECS-100AX-500/X951-ND/827244)
I made it work from about 3 V. Are they any good? Or just very convenient?
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Thanks!
Using the pinout of this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECS-100AX-500/X951-ND/827244 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECS-100AX-500/X951-ND/827244)
I made it work from about 3 V. Are they any good? Or just very convenient?
Mostly convenience. A crystal would need some circuity to turn the oscillating voltage from the crystal into a clock signal. Usually MCUs and such have such circuity integrated. An oscillator already provides a clock signal (TTL/CMOS/whatever) without requiring additional circuity somewhere else.
However, nowadays, crystals are preferred. Not only because the BOM will likely be cheaper, but also it is easier to realize low power applications (a MCU can easily shutdown its clock generator if it goes to sleep -- try to do this with an external oscillator...)
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Thanks!
Using the pinout of this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECS-100AX-500/X951-ND/827244 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECS-100AX-500/X951-ND/827244)
I made it work from about 3 V. Are they any good? Or just very convenient?
Mostly convenience. A crystal would need some circuity to turn the oscillating voltage from the crystal into a clock signal. Usually MCUs and such have such circuity integrated. An oscillator already provides a clock signal (TTL/CMOS/whatever) without requiring additional circuity somewhere else.
However, nowadays, crystals are preferred. Not only because the BOM will likely be cheaper, but also it is easier to realize low power applications (a MCU can easily shutdown its clock generator if it goes to sleep -- try to do this with an external oscillator...)
It depends on the requirements. For example, if you need an accurate oscillator, say 2ppm or better, you're going to need an external canned oscillator such as a TCXO.
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It depends on the requirements. For example, if you need an accurate oscillator, say 2ppm or better, you're going to need an external canned oscillator such as a TCXO.
You are right. TXCOs are also available in these 4-pin TH packages. But i guess they would be designated specifically on the package, hence my assumption that the SE-TIME osc. in the picture would not be a TXCO. Or are there TXCOs that are not marked as such?
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I figure this is the closest thread for this question, since I already know what it is. I just need to know where to get it. About 4 years ago, our EE sourced this pogo pin, and he's no longer with the company.
Thanks in advance!
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... since I already know what it is. I just need to know where to get it....
If you already know what is it, why don't you share so others can help you find it instead of they having to figure that out first?
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If you already know what is it, why don't you share so others can help you find it instead of they having to figure that out first?
He said what it is: It is a pogo-pin. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pogo_pin (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pogo_pin)
He is asking about sourcing it.
Although one would need some Real World dimensions to do an accurate search.
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Not exactly identical, but look up pogo pin masher. Round tip, but with knurling.
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I have a 6 Pin IC came from a Charger circuit Sennheiser but would like to get the datasheet. Anyone recognise the number on the components plus the other marking. I believe it belongs to a particular manufacturer but never seen this type before.
Sorry about the quality of the image, but it it was difficult to get the number and so I had to enhance it to see more clearly.
Cheers
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There are many hits for T1, can you identify the package?
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Identifying the markings on tiny SMD packages requires more than just the mark and even the package.
It also requires the "context" of what is around it, the general historic era, what kind of circuit, etc. etc.
As tautech said, there are many different SMD parts, even in that package, marked "T1"
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I think ..it is a kind of IC( Integrated Circuits)
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Identifying the markings on tiny SMD packages requires more than just the mark and even the package.
It also requires the "context" of what is around it, the general historic era, what kind of circuit, etc. etc.
As tautech said, there are many different SMD parts, even in that package, marked "T1"
As mentioned in the post it is from a Sennheiser charging cct. I cant elaborate further. I am not very experienced at identifying non common packages but to say it is extremely small. about 3mm x 1.5mm roughly.
I cant get a hold of the circuit, but I still have another board, I may consider reverse engineer it, just do have a lot of time at this stage. I will add to the forum later when I have the time.
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Identifying the markings on tiny SMD packages requires more than just the mark and even the package.
It also requires the "context" of what is around it, the general historic era, what kind of circuit, etc. etc.
As tautech said, there are many different SMD parts, even in that package, marked "T1"
As mentioned in the post it is from a Sennheiser charging cct. I cant elaborate further. I am not very experienced at identifying non common packages but to say it is extremely small. about 3mm x 1.5mm roughly.
I cant get a hold of the circuit, but I still have another board, I may consider reverse engineer it, just do have a lot of time at this stage. I will add to the forum later when I have the time.
If you Google "smd package identification" and use Vernier calipers you'll have the answer.
Calipers are now "a must" for electronic work.
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Sorting through a box of NOS parts I came across this. As far as I can tell it appears to be some sort of heating element or spark element possibly. Any help in correctly identifying this item would be greatly appreciated. It has about 95 Ohms across the two input terminals, no PN junctions detected so it's purely resistive. It also has on each end inside a pointed rather thick electrode of some sort.
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Sorting through a box of NOS parts I came across this. As far as I can tell it appears to be some sort of heating element or spark element possibly. Any help in correctly identifying this item would be greatly appreciated. It has about 95 Ohms across the two input terminals, no PN junctions detected so it's purely resistive. It also has on each end inside a pointed rather thick electrode of some sort.
Could be a heating element to heat the fuel before arriving at the injection system, also has an inlet and outlet so it could also be a switch to disconnect the flow.
Can't imagine sparking the fuel before the cylinder.
Have you tried to connect the coil to 12V or lower to see what it does.
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It looks like something related to low/high-pressure applications. Note on one end the large number of mounting holes and an indentation for what looks like an o-ring. The other end is just a flat surface with only four mounting holes. Could it be perhaps a part of something like a valve/emitter or fixture for some kind of measurement apparatus for a high/low-pressure chamber? (Not sure how the 95 Ohm would fit into that speculation, though...)
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Magnetic polariser, it would be attached between a scalar ring set and the LNB of an older C band ( or other band of interest) dish, to enable you to select the polarisation, selecting the polarisation by passing a constant current ( 35mA IIRC or in that ballpark) through it. Was used in the old days before they could make low loss RF switches in a LNB, but a low loss ferrite that would skew polarisation depending on the magnitude and direction of a current in the coil wound around it was easy to do. Date code suggests it was made in December 1997.
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Magnetic polariser, it would be attached between a scalar ring set and the LNB of an older C band ( or other band of interest) dish, to enable you to select the polarisation, selecting the polarisation by passing a constant current ( 35mA IIRC or in that ballpark) through it. Was used in the old days before they could make low loss RF switches in a LNB, but a low loss ferrite that would skew polarisation depending on the magnitude and direction of a current in the coil wound around it was easy to do. Date code suggests it was made in December 1997.
Awesome! Thanks Sean...
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Sorting through a box of NOS parts I came across this. As far as I can tell it appears to be some sort of heating element or spark element possibly. Any help in correctly identifying this item would be greatly appreciated. It has about 95 Ohms across the two input terminals, no PN junctions detected so it's purely resistive. It also has on each end inside a pointed rather thick electrode of some sort.
Do you want to clarify NOS acronym for us. I haven't used many waveguide so I think there is a bit of a misunderstanding. It does though resemble a waveguide but it also represents a pressure manifold of a Nitrious Oxide System albeit a large one.
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Sorting through a box of NOS parts I came across this. As far as I can tell it appears to be some sort of heating element or spark element possibly. Any help in correctly identifying this item would be greatly appreciated. It has about 95 Ohms across the two input terminals, no PN junctions detected so it's purely resistive. It also has on each end inside a pointed rather thick electrode of some sort.
Do you want to clarify NOS acronym for us. I haven't used many waveguide so I think there is a bit of a misunderstanding. It does though resemble a waveguide but it also represents a pressure manifold of a Nitrious Oxide System albeit a large one.
Outside the Automotive high performance industry NOS is invaribly taken to mean "New, Old Stock"
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OK, thanks for the clarification :palm:.
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Part of the recently acquired NOS (New Old Stock) parts I gained a few crystal oscillators, good to have around! There is one in particular that I am interested in finding the datasheet for but can't seem to locate one. It's a Corning MC937X5-002W 155.520000 MHz oscillator which I am very interested getting some info on. I have attached some pics. Any help would again be greatly appreciated.
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Component has markings "407J(M? symbol)41". It measures open circuit, has no significant capacitance. It is rectangular shaped and very thin, only 2-3mm.
It was used near a heated components. I guess it is a thermal switch, NO and closing at determined temperature. If the heater catches on fire, device will close, short out the supply, blow the fuse in a power supply and prevent power from reaching fire.
However, I could not confirm my guess after looking through thermal switch catalogues. Thermally operated switches usually use bimetallic strips which are much larger in size.
Any ideas?
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It could be a failed (open) RTC or thermistor(?)
Assuming that the scale in your photo is cm.
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Photo shows cm reference.
I do not have original circuit anymore, but I recall that part was located very close to main heater power bus. Device was not soldered, just press fitted by contact spring action. Heater had a dedicated thermocouplethermistor and thermostat very close to heat source, this device was separated by strong plastic wall from a heater. Thus I would think it is a NO thermal (suicide) switch rather than a sensor.
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It's an obsolete "voltage dependent resistor" AKA Varistor from Stackpole. Stackpole SV230K23.
Here are the specs:
http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/8484616839472155797 (http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/8484616839472155797)
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Part of the recently acquired NOS (New Old Stock) parts I gained a few crystal oscillators, good to have around! There is one in particular that I am interested in finding the datasheet for but can't seem to locate one. It's a Corning MC937X5-002W 155.520000 MHz oscillator which I am very interested getting some info on. I have attached some pics. Any help would again be greatly appreciated.
Here you go.
https://web.archive.org/web/20000816192941/http://www.corningfrequency.com/catalog/937_pg058.pdf (https://web.archive.org/web/20000816192941/http://www.corningfrequency.com/catalog/937_pg058.pdf)
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Part of the recently acquired NOS (New Old Stock) parts I gained a few crystal oscillators, good to have around! There is one in particular that I am interested in finding the datasheet for but can't seem to locate one. It's a Corning MC937X5-002W 155.520000 MHz oscillator which I am very interested getting some info on. I have attached some pics. Any help would again be greatly appreciated.
Here you go.
https://web.archive.org/web/20000816192941/http://www.corningfrequency.com/catalog/937_pg058.pdf (https://web.archive.org/web/20000816192941/http://www.corningfrequency.com/catalog/937_pg058.pdf)
Thank you! 8)
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It's an obsolete "voltage dependent resistor" AKA Varistor from Stackpole. Stackpole SV230K23.
Here are the specs:
http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/8484616839472155797 (http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/8484616839472155797)
It could be varistor. I would like to test your suggestion >:D, but I do not have HV source at the moment.
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I am looking for a datasheet of C0-J05 voltage regulator. Vin ~5v, Vout should be in 2.8-3.6V range. SOT-23 package with 5 pins, 2005-2006 vintage.
The closest match I found is Ricoh R1154N105B (http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/201760/RICOH/R1154N105B.html), but it has way too high output voltage and markings are not identical.
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Hi electr_peter,
It is most likely RT9701 (http://www.richtek.com/product_detail.jsp?s=358)
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Hello all, hopefully someone can help me identify this particular component. Unfortunately, it failed and whats left does not have any markings on it, and the only other example on the board looks like its about to suffer the same fate, but hopefully its still recognizable to someone. See attached, R15 is the failed component, R56 looks like its the same part, except it appears to be swelling. Thanks in advance!
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Hi electr_peter,
It is most likely RT9701 (http://www.richtek.com/product_detail.jsp?s=358)
I think you-re right about that. The data sheet you link to doesn't include marking codes, but I found an older data sheet from year 2000 with the marking code C0 in it: http://wenku.baidu.com/view/77ad2c00bed5b9f3f90f1cb2.html (http://wenku.baidu.com/view/77ad2c00bed5b9f3f90f1cb2.html)
So it's the R9701xB version with the chip enable pin included. The pinout matches too.
The 3 letters/digits after C0- are probably date codes.
If you google RT9701 you'll find several pictures of SMDs with the C0-xxx marking on it.
Is the part used for an USB port?
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Hi electr_peter,
It is most likely RT9701 (http://www.richtek.com/product_detail.jsp?s=358)
I think you-re right about that. The data sheet you link to doesn't include marking codes, but I found an older data sheet from year 2000 with the marking code C0 in it: http://wenku.baidu.com/view/77ad2c00bed5b9f3f90f1cb2.html (http://wenku.baidu.com/view/77ad2c00bed5b9f3f90f1cb2.html)
So it's the R9701xB version with the chip enable pin included. The pinout matches too.
The 3 letters/digits after C0- are probably date codes.
Thanks for suggestions, Jad.z and AndersAnd. You are probably right about the part.
Is the part used for an USB port?
Device does not have USB port. There were 2 devices with the same marking, both in a power supply line. It provided ~3.3V to 2.0V regulator (with massive filtering) for a DVD media device (MT1389 - DVD player SoC).
I thought could be voltage regulator as that SoC require few exact voltages, but I am not sure.
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I got some junk that used to be laser range finder from around 1985. I am looking at flash bulb trigger circuit and I found a component which is made by RCA (?) - S2600M. Funny thing I even found a datasheet for this thing, but still I am puzzled - what it is? BJT? Seems not, what would be correct symbol for it?
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The datasheet says it is an scr???
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It's an SCR - take a look at w2aew's video if you are confused - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSqCiCc7jQc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSqCiCc7jQc)
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The datasheet says it is an scr???
Yep, also states it's a thyristor....how many more clues do you need? :-//
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Yes, thanks. Sorry I must have turned off my brains at some moment :) Definitely missed the word "thyristor" in description.
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New Ti 84 - Based on the EZ80, big upgrade from the Z80.
Anyhow, between the French version that sports a full exact calculus motor (everything that can written as a fraction, root, power or trig is written as such) and the "back to basics US version", there are minor component differences.
All are easy to identify, except the D01 in the top left... Not sure about it:
Any ideas?
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Any idea what the package might be?
Footprint looks very strange for a diode. :-//
You could take a punt and just use a signal diode.
Probably better to reverse engineer that part of the circuit including the IC, then ask for advice, maybe in a dedicated thread.
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Looks like an IR data port, so I googled TI-84 Infrared and sure enough some later models come with it.
Could it be that instead of what you thought it was?
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Looks like an IR data port, so I googled TI-84 Infrared and sure enough some later models come with it.
Could it be that instead of what you thought it was?
Does not seem to fit the bill... THe IR is not a difference between these two models...
Ti sometimes uses custom packages in its calculators to make modding them much harder.
Edit:
It's a two colour led. The little circuit below is a classic two led driver...
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That's why I thought it was some IR communication setup, because it did look like two LEDs, but you are right, they seem to be both for output not one for input and the other for output.
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Hi All. I am look for the name of this type of connector and where I can order it. Anyone know who makes it and what it is called?
Thanks for the help.
Fluxed
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Hi All. I am look for the name of this type of connector and where I can order it. Anyone know who makes it and what it is called?
How about this? Stator to R&R Connector and Terminals (http://cycleterminal.com/) (about 2/3 down the page, on the right)
aka Yazaki 3 Pin Connector
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Hi All. I am look for the name of this type of connector and where I can order it. Anyone know who makes it and what it is called?
Context is always helpful. It looks somewhat like the kind of connector you find for traditional incandescent sealed-beam headlights on a vehicle.
They are basically the kind of connectors that attach to spade-lugs, but held within the white plastic shell.
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Context is always helpful.
Sorry, I should have explained better. The connector is used in an electric scooter. I had it but some bastard stole the old batteries with the connector still attached. I have new batteries now but I want to get proper replacement it, and I guess I will also need the contacts too.
tsmith35 thanks for the link, The R&R kit may be the ticket.
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If you only have added razor
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/e21.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3YipBRDL2bHhjLmFkQsSJADtzktjO3hCds_y860zdMfPcaHzeTRuTBO3rW07Ka4uVAkXMhoCLeLw_wcB (http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/e21.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3YipBRDL2bHhjLmFkQsSJADtzktjO3hCds_y860zdMfPcaHzeTRuTBO3rW07Ka4uVAkXMhoCLeLw_wcB)
Discontinued:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/ract5wicomoe.html (http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/ract5wicomoe.html)
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If you only have added razor
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/e21.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3YipBRDL2bHhjLmFkQsSJADtzktjO3hCds_y860zdMfPcaHzeTRuTBO3rW07Ka4uVAkXMhoCLeLw_wcB (http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/e21.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3YipBRDL2bHhjLmFkQsSJADtzktjO3hCds_y860zdMfPcaHzeTRuTBO3rW07Ka4uVAkXMhoCLeLw_wcB)
Discontinued:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/ract5wicomoe.html (http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/ract5wicomoe.html)
miguelvp, thanks I found that all over the internet too. I don't want the harness I want just the connector at the end
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Looks like a generic Automotive connector. I have seen loads of different varieties at automotive shops. Not good at online stores though.
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I don't want the harness I want just the connector at the end
By "connector" do you mean the whole white plastic shell? Or just the metal contacts?
They look like ordinary "spade lugs" (or rather the female part that slips over the male spade lug.)
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@mswhin63 I have checked a few of my local auto parts stores but most carry the GM type which is not the same. But I will check a couple more in my area. Thanks
@Richard Crowley, Yes the whole white plastic shell with the metal contacts.
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Hi All. I am look for the name of this type of connector and where I can order it. Anyone know who makes it and what it is called?
Thanks for the help.
Fluxed
Could this be it?
http://www.te.com/catalog/products/en?q=0-0172132-1 (http://www.te.com/catalog/products/en?q=0-0172132-1)
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Context is always helpful.
Sorry, I should have explained better. The connector is used in an electric scooter. I had it but some bastard stole the old batteries with the connector still attached. I have new batteries now but I want to get proper replacement it, and I guess I will also need the contacts too.
tsmith35 thanks for the link, The R&R kit may be the ticket.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what%27s-this-please-%28component-advice%29/?action=dlattach;attach=145758;image)
Chinese Scooter Parts Wiring Harness Kit Plugs Terminals 3 pin battery connector
http://www.ebay.com/itm/22143896476 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/22143896476)
This ad is for 4 pieces of 3 pin female battery connectors with the brass ends..buy multiple purchases and only pay 1 shipping fee..
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ2OFgxMTAx/z/z-sAAOxywFhTcX8Q/$_57.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ2OVgxMTAx/z/gQoAAOxyItRTcX74/$_57.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIyNFgxNDY4/z/f3cAAOxyItRTcX7g/$_57.JPG)
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10 Sets X 3 Pin 6.3mm 3P Connector Terminals Scooter Moped EBike Controller ATV
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321508387956 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321508387956)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDIzWDUwMA==/z/VxQAAMXQVT9S9btY/$_57.JPG)
(http://y.photo.qq.com/img?s=C74LNh4Kt&l=y.jpg)
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Nylon Latching Connector Pair 3-pin 6.3mm 1/4" Male/Female 18-14AWG #E37C
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261494574193 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261494574193)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDgwMA==/z/8cMAAOxyzpdTizll/$_57.JPG)
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Excavatoree and AndersAnd thank you both very much. That exactly what I have been searching for.
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Hi,
Can someone identify these please ?
I think they are BY509 HV diodes, if so does the small purple ring on the indicate the anode ?
Thanks
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According to datasheet archive (http://www.datasheetarchive.com/BY509-datasheet.html#) it indicates cathode...if it's really a BY509. Purple is an unusual color and its location on the wire instead of the body is also unusual so your guess is probably good.
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That's great, thanks very much :)
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Are there any common or less common diodes where the anode is marked with a band instead of the cathode? Marking the cathode is the usual standard.
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A connector about 1.93mm in diameter, I'm thinking mmcx male
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That's an SMP connector, fairly typical for tiny on board RF these days.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SMP-MSLD-PCS/ARF1594-ND/1012555 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SMP-MSLD-PCS/ARF1594-ND/1012555)
regards
Tim
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Before you replied i was thinking u.fl connector.
Did some more research, and the mounting pad size specs matches the u.fl.
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Before you replied i was thinking u.fl connector.
Did some more research, and the mounting pad size specs matches the u.fl.
Oooh yes, that looks closer to yours, they look very similar to the SMP's.
regards
Tim
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^^^ The micronometer clued me into it.
You know it is tiny when it is the same size as the tip on your soldering iron.
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Can someone help identify this power connector? It's used in Nokia Flex Power Distributor, I couldn't find it anywhere.
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Can someone help identify this power connector? It's used in Nokia Flex Power Distributor, I couldn't find it anywhere.
Stick wires in and clamp it down with screws? You can use wire with spade terminal to plug in directly.
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Can someone help identify this power connector? It's used in Nokia Flex Power Distributor, I couldn't find it anywhere.
It is not a commodity component. It is a custom part made for that unit. Either kludge a DIY replacement or get an exact replacement from Nokia.
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Yes, probably a specially designed connector for that part.
Well... I'll have to improvise something...
Thanks for the help.
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:wtf: why I cant see anything, the image are blocked!
haaaaappy life in china, they block every thing. |O |O |O |O
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Well I'm totally and utterly bamboozled by this one. It's a SOT-89 package and I'm pretty sure it's a LDO. The pinout is 1: Vout??? 2: GND 3: Vin
The markings are "M1" on one end and "31" on the other. I've spent a while googling but haven't found anything. The output is connected to an LCD via the connector next door. Anyone else got any ideas?
Full size image: http://imgur.com/2KmBzbc (http://imgur.com/2KmBzbc)
(http://i.imgur.com/2KmBzbcm.jpg)
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http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/2PB1424.pdf (http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/2PB1424.pdf)
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http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/2PB1424.pdf (http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/2PB1424.pdf)
I love you
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http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/2PB1424.pdf (http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/2PB1424.pdf)
I love you
Now, now, that will do.
"M1 marking SMD SOT-89 IC data", first hit in Google, then follow your nose..... ;)
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A 2PB1424 is marked M1, but not the only device to have that marking. Especially if you think it's an LDO...
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Anyone know what this part is? I can't seem to find a datasheet on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Try this one: http://www.seekdatasheet.com/Datasheet-72946-60K860B.html (http://www.seekdatasheet.com/Datasheet-72946-60K860B.html)
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Try this one: http://www.seekdatasheet.com/Datasheet-72946-60K860B.html (http://www.seekdatasheet.com/Datasheet-72946-60K860B.html)
That link took me to an ZXRD1000 Inductor part. ???
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Try this one: http://www.seekdatasheet.com/Datasheet-72946-60K860B.html (http://www.seekdatasheet.com/Datasheet-72946-60K860B.html)
That link took me to an ZXRD1000 Inductor part. ???
Bugger, sorry, net is slow here today and it looked promising.
Well at least your post got a bump.
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Anyone know what this part is? I can't seem to find a datasheet on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
60KQ60B schottky diode.
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Anyone know what this part is? I can't seem to find a datasheet on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
60KQ60B schottky diode.
Thank's man. I thought the Q was an 8.
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I cant seem to get any love from google recently.
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I cant seem to get any love from google recently.
Did you include the package type in your search?
"R32 marking SMD TO-?? datasheet pdf" or some thing like that mostly seems to work for me.
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I cant seem to get any love from google recently.
Did you include the package type in your search?
"R32 marking SMD TO-?? datasheet pdf" or some thing like that mostly seems to work for me.
i did. Ive tried pretty much every combination of text on the package i can think of too.
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Check ON's site. If you're desperate you can go through all their sot-223 datasheets, or email them with that picture.
R32 is a datecode, it's 3064 that you'll need to figure out.
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Couldn’t find this one used in IBM SystemX SSD 50GB (P/N: 43W7714)
SMD marking code is AEL with some bars above and below. Package dimensions looks like a SSOT25.
The closest I could find is Torex XC74xxx series but couldn’t find SMD mark info in the document.
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http://smdcode.com/tr/smd/code/ael-xc6114c519mr-voltage-detector-integrated-circuit-9240/ (http://smdcode.com/tr/smd/code/ael-xc6114c519mr-voltage-detector-integrated-circuit-9240/)
Makes sense, power management, it's close to the batteries.
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Thanks for the reply.
The problem is that AEL seems to be a SSOT25 and the datasheet doesn't mention this package.
In the picture below you can see A04G (the voltage detector SOT25) and the AEL at its side.
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An "identify that component" challenge:
28-pin 0.3" DIP IC, possibly some sort of microcontroller.
Markings have been deliberately etched off.
It's from a cheap eBay-generic serial CNC handwheel pulse generator - maybe something old, or something obscure from China.
Pin 4: UART RXD
Pin 5: UART TXD
Pin 6: 11.0592 MHz crystal, plus typical crystal load capacitors.
Pin 7: Other side of the crystal oscillator.
Pin 14: Ground
Pin 28: +5V supply.
Any takers?
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Any idea what this is?
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High voltage resistor divider, probably. ...and frequency compensated with the blue ceramic cap.
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Wonder if anyone can offer pointers to this please? Not sure what the package is but C18 is an 0805 for reference. I can't quite work out if the lines are indicating fields e.g. date code.
From tracing assuming pin 1 is at the bottom of the pic I can say pins 1&2 are 0v, pin3 is +5v and the others are analogue signals which I'm trying to trace. Maybe some sort of clamp?
Thanks
N
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Looks like a SOT23-6 package. :-//
Theres a few CF* devices you could check for a match here:
http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/cf (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/cf)
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INA213 - about a minute or two of googling. Grhhhhh.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina210.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina210.pdf)
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INA213 - about a minute or two of googling. Grhhhhh.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina210.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina210.pdf)
Thanks, that's the one! Out of interest, what did you Google? I tried searching and a few sites like s-manuals.com & smdcodes.com but didn't get any hits for a 6-pin device. In the end I opted for a punt on here and some sleep...
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INA213 - about a minute or two of googling. Grhhhhh.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina210.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina210.pdf)
Thanks, that's the one! Out of interest, what did you Google?
I wasn't the one googling it, but just tried to google "SOT23-6 CFT" and this showed up as the 4th hit:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/INA213AIDCKT-TI-Chip-screen-printing-CFT-SOT23-6-IC-100-new-original-Free-shipping/1888451678.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/INA213AIDCKT-TI-Chip-screen-printing-CFT-SOT23-6-IC-100-new-original-Free-shipping/1888451678.html)
INA213AIDCKT TI Chip screen printing:CFT SOT23-6 IC 100% new original Free shipping
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I found this on the ground at the park today. I suspect its part of some sort of drone, but i dont know.
The micro is a PIC12F629. The back side is just a button and a battery holder.
When powered at ~3v3 the led blinks when you press the button, but stops as soon as you release it.
Anyone have any ideas?
(http://i.imgur.com/PhdV3Vv.jpg)
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It can be a "Universal Keychain IR Remote TV Shutter" like https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/'tv-b-gone'-pic-based-tv-killer/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/'tv-b-gone'-pic-based-tv-killer/)
It's more likely a key fob wireless remote for a car or a garage port opener.
The PCB-track running all along the edge looks like the antenna.
The LED is probably just a red or green indicator LED which lights up every time the remote key is pressed. Had it been an IR-remote LED, it would have pointed forwards instead of upwards.
Here's one with interchangeable circuit board with and one of the numbers is the same ATCN-1 as printed on your PCB : http://www.ebay.com/itm/clicker-fob-keyless-remote-starter-entry-wireless-beeper-keyfob-Ford-GOHPCMINI-/231316246733 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/clicker-fob-keyless-remote-starter-entry-wireless-beeper-keyfob-Ford-GOHPCMINI-/231316246733)
Interchangeable circuit board #s:
ATCD-1
ATCN-1
ATCD
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjMxWDQxNw==/z/POEAAOSwRLZT-31w/$_12.JPG)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGpzG86tJQo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGpzG86tJQo)
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Right. The XTAL on silkscreen confused me, so I thought that the metal part is ordinary crystal. I see now, it has 8 legs, like possibly radio transmitter should.
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Mystery solved! thanks AndersAnd. I never would have guessed that.
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See the photo of the cable on this page:
https://www.duniway.com/part/LEY-NT150-CBL (https://www.duniway.com/part/LEY-NT150-CBL)
I'd like some sort of identification of the rectangular connector with the trapezoidal bit at one end.
Any suggestions for an equivalent connector?
The bit on the other end, that looks like a free-hanging octal valve socket on the cable with a backshell, looks like it might be fairly easy to source.
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The rectangular plug looks like a modified Bell and Howell Used for all sorts of things other than projectors, my wife's wheel chair uses one for the main battery connection. The round one is an octal socket I have the plug version floating around somewhere in one of my bins.
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the link to duniway is very bad, it wont show me the image
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the link to duniway is very bad, it wont show me the image
(https://www.duniway.com/sites/default/files/styles/galleryformatter_slide/public/field/image/products/ley-nt150-cbl-l_0.jpg)
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the link to duniway is very bad, it wont show me the image
Same cable here: http://www.pchemlabs.com/product.asp?pid=2880 (http://www.pchemlabs.com/product.asp?pid=2880)
(http://www.idealvac.com/files/images/Leybold_85760_1.gif)
@LukeW I guess you want to make your own cable? No wonder since the quoted prices for this simple 3 meter [10 feet] cable is $200-325 at the 2 links mentioned here, insane price for such a simple cable. :bullshit:
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is this cable used to test valves from old radios ?
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Ok, I know this is a voltage regulator. But how do I find a datasheet?
It's a 5V SOT23-5 linear voltage regulator with standard pinout and marking says "16MX".
How do you guys search for something like this? "SOT23-5 16MX voltage regulator" got me nowhere; maybe I'm too stupid ...
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I nearly forgot, I have a japanese battery charger that I mistakenly plugs on main 230V without really checking if it was an automatique switchable one, and in fact it was working (the output was correct) unless a big bang occurred somewhere, which was of course inside the charger, a cap inside just didn't liked to be plugged on 230V.
So as I wanted to repair this board and see if I could make it working on european main voltage without major changes, aka just change some component values, I started to look at the component and try to make a schematic of it. My main problem was that there is an IC where I can't find any data sheet,
I managed from the logo on it that the original company (Matsushita) was bought by Panasonic, and try to find on there website a reference for this component, I found that it exist, but there were no documentation on it. I filled a ticket requesting for the data sheet, at some point the ticket changed to
[Q&A Destination After Changing]
Interface & Communication / Analog / DC-DC Regulator / RF
Field : Analog ICs
Detail Field : Other Analog ICs
and I finally get a "old component, we don't give data sheet for old components"... Thanks panasonic.
So here is the board :
Front: (http://www.mirari.fr/DXtH)
Back: (http://www.mirari.fr/NGnY)
And the chip is the AN8171
If anyone have information about the chip, I would be thanksful :)
I suspect that this is mainly a controller for the battery change or something related to the AC to DC converter, I'm not sure.
(I know that if a Dave will look at the PCB for this charger he will just get a heart attack, there design is quite strange, pads or track that does nowhere, some clearance between main and low voltage are just... really tiny :D
And it was made by a bit japanese company, and not a small chinese one.. :D
By the way, the FR1/FR2 are high chance to be some sort of fuse resistors, but the value, if they follow the standard resistor colour band seems strange to me (Orange, White, Black Silver if I'm correct)
I may create a topic about this specific device if some people are interested, I'm trying to find the schematics I've done at that time, but it's currently nowhere to be found, anyway I know that most of it around the transformer is false
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I managed from the logo on it that the original company (Matsushita) was bought by Panasonic,
No Matsushita has never been bought by Panasonic, in fact Panasonic was a just brand name for some products made by Matsushita, just like Technics. In 2008 Matsushita decided to change their company names from Matsushita Electric Industrial to Panasonic Corporation and Matsushita Electric Works to Panasonic Electric Works respectively, to conform with its global brand name "Panasonic".
Sanyo on the other hand has been acquired by Panasonic Corporation in December 2009. Fun fact: Sanyo, originally a competior of Matsushita/Panasonic was founded by Matsushita's brother-in-law, a former Matsushita employee.
[The electronics industry answer to Puma/Adidas I guess, as Puma and later Adidas, was founded by two rivalling brothers, after their relationship had deteriorated and they decided to split, after previously having worked together at what had become their common shoe factory].
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panasonic
Panasonic Corporation, formerly known as Matsushita Electric Industrial Co., Ltd...
Name
From 1935 to October 1, 2008, the company name was "Matsushita Electric Industrial Co., Ltd."[3][4] On January 10, 2008, the company announced that it would change its name to "Panasonic Corporation", in effect on October 1, 2008, to conform with its global brand name "Panasonic".[5] The name change was approved at a shareholders' meeting on June 26, 2008 after consultation with the Matsushita family.[6]
Panasonic was founded in 1918 by Konosuke Matsushita as a vendor of duplex lamp sockets.
Matsushita's brother-in-law, Toshio Iue, founded Sanyo as a subcontractor for components after World War II. Sanyo grew to become a competitor to Panasonic, but was later acquired by Panasonic in December 2009.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsushita
Matsushita Electric Industrial, now Panasonic Corporation, a multinational electronics corporation based in Kadoma, Japan
Matsushita Electric Works, now Panasonic Electric Works, a lighting, building materials, and appliance manufacturer in Japan
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Thanks about Matsushita, I was already aware about that, and honestly apart from beeing picky about how the name changes it did not help me on finding what this component is.
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i have seen these before but i dont recall what it is?
looks like a disc capacitor with two cylindrical bits on it... it's a 3 pin device
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i have seen these before but i dont recall what it is?
looks like a disc capacitor with two cylindrical bits on it... it's a 3 pin device
LC filter, the cylinders are ferrite.
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Pi filter, generally used on signal lines and power lines, depending on the capacitor value. 100p to 10n is common on signal lines and 100n to 220n for power rails. Ferrite beads are high loss and low inductance, giving good attenuation over around 100kHz.
Note if you accidentally apply too high a voltage ( or connect it to a 100W PA output by mistake) it does burn nicely.
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But what is this white stuff all around?
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Potting compound, probably there because the board handled high voltage and they wanted to keep surface leakage to a minimum.
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But what is this white stuff all around?
Thanks PA0PBZ & Sean
as Sean said, its potting compound and does handle high voltage, some of the components in there are rated to 6kV.
Its been sat in dichloromethane for 2 weeks, but i have run out!
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Funny enough just ordered 20l of something similar for work. But at 20 pounds per 500ml bottle I will not be using it as epoxy remover, though it will do the job. Linx solvent, used for an inkjet printer. Funny thing is it, along with the ink, has an expiry date. It also will diffuse through the HDPE bottle with time, the old expired ones I use at home ( still sealed, they expired in the service kit) have evaporated around half through the plastic.
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is this cable used to test valves from old radios ?
It looks like a drive cable for a turbomolecular (high vacuum) pump. The grey rectangular connector might be some sort of European type connector, though I'm not certain off the top of my head. I think I remember seeing them on Balzers/Pfeiffer and Leybold turbo pump controllers, but it's been years since I've touched one.
-Pat
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Ok, I know this is a voltage regulator. But how do I find a datasheet?
It's a 5V SOT23-5 linear voltage regulator with standard pinout and marking says "16MX".
How do you guys search for something like this? "SOT23-5 16MX voltage regulator" got me nowhere; maybe I'm too stupid ...
No, not stupid, but some tings are not that easy to find. But not impossible.
I found this datasheet (http://www.torex.com.cn/products/voltage_regulators/data/XC6201.pdf) on a voltage regulator that I'm pretty sure is the one on your board.
First I searched for some smd codebooks and then searched inside them until I found one (http://caxapa.ru/thumbs/588912/smd-codes.pdf) that listed "16M" (I left off the "X" as it's usually different between batches anyway). Hmm, a 5 V regulator, so far so good.
It describes it as a SOT-89, but hey, usually this stuff is available in different packages, so I looked for "XC6201P502PR" anyway and found the datasheet.
It's available as a SOT-25 too which looks quite like your picture (or perhaps SOT23-5 and SOT25 look so much alike that I don't see the difference).
Looking at the datsheet a bit better I find the pinout to be the same as your picture. Still on the right track!
Scrolling down (actually searching for "mark") I found the marking scheme:
16MX means:
1: XC6201xxxx-series
6: voltage 3.1-6 V
M: 5.0 V
X: lot number
P.S. This is my first post on this forum, just joined, but I've been following the EEVblog for quite a while. I am in the industrial electronics industry and testing, repairing and calibrating is my main responsibility.
Edit: corrected links and typos.
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is this cable used to test valves from old radios ?
It looks like a drive cable for a turbomolecular (high vacuum) pump. The grey rectangular connector might be some sort of European type connector, though I'm not certain off the top of my head. I think I remember seeing them on Balzers/Pfeiffer and Leybold turbo pump controllers, but it's been years since I've touched one.
-Pat
I think that may be where I saw them!
I worked for a while as an Electronics Tech at the University of Western Australia Chemistry Department.
We had a pump that kept blowing up the drive circuitry----turned out to be a mechanical fault in the pump. |O
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Ok, I know this is a voltage regulator. But how do I find a datasheet?
It's a 5V SOT23-5 linear voltage regulator with standard pinout and marking says "16MX".
How do you guys search for something like this? "SOT23-5 16MX voltage regulator" got me nowhere; maybe I'm too stupid ...
No, not stupid, but some tings are not that easy to find. But not impossible.
I found this datasheet (http://www.torex.com.cn/products/voltage_regulators/data/XC6201.pdf) on a voltage regulator that I'm pretty sure is the one on your board.
First I searched for some smd codebooks and then searched inside them until I found one (http://caxapa.ru/thumbs/588912/smd-codes.pdf) that listed "16M" (I left off the "X" as it's usually different between batches anyway). Hmm, a 5 V regulator, so far so good.
It describes it as a SOT-89, but hey, usually this stuff is available in different packages, so I looked for "XC6201P502PR" anyway and found the datasheet.
It's available as a SOT-25 too which looks quite like your picture (or perhaps SOT23-5 and SOT25 look so much alike that I don't see the difference).
Looking at the datsheet a bit better I find the pinout to be the same as your picture. Still on the right track!
Scrolling down (actually searching for "mark") I found the marking scheme:
16MX means:
1: XC6201xxxx-series
6: voltage 3.1-6 V
M: 5.0 V
X: lot number
P.S. This is my first post on this forum, just joined, but I've been following the EEVblog for quite a while. I am in the industrial electronics industry and testing, repairing and calibrating is my main responsibility.
Edit: corrected links and typos.
(http://i.imgur.com/iysdsoi.gif) Thank you so much, you're my hero!
http://caxapa.ru/thumbs/588912/smd-codes.pdf (http://caxapa.ru/thumbs/588912/smd-codes.pdf) ... in Russia smd codebook finds you! :P
I didn't know there is even a difference between SOT-23-5 and SOT-25.
Thanks for helping me out, I almost gave up hope on this one. But most importantly, thank you for showing me how you did it.
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:blush:
You're welcome!
A tip I can give is to search for the most recent datasheets at the manufacturer's websites rather than at datasheet websites like "alldatasheet" or similar.
I find that datasheets on those kinds of websites may not be up to date.
That recently presented a problem at work... a customer changed a part from manufacturer A to manuf. B. Manuf. B only made it in shape X according to the datasheet. Hmm... that no longer fits the pcb design... Then I searched for the datasheet at the manufacturer's website: hey... this one says it's available it in shapes X, Y and Z... => no problem.
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(http://i.imgur.com/iysdsoi.gif) Thank you so much, you're my hero!
http://caxapa.ru/thumbs/588912/smd-codes.pdf (http://caxapa.ru/thumbs/588912/smd-codes.pdf) ... in Russia smd codebook finds you! :P
I didn't know there is even a difference between SOT-23-5 and SOT-25.
Thanks for helping me out, I almost gave up hope on this one. But most importantly, thank you for showing me how you did it.
Thanks for the link, I didn't have that one, now I do, see, it all helps others out.
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Pronounced Muh-shush-tah = Matsushita :-+
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Hello everyone!
I recently looked through a little pile of old stuff where I found some... interesting devices. Two of them I couldn't find anything about. One is a transistor in a "kind of TO-92 case". It is written C - A 6 16. Picture one.
The other one is another transistor in a rather unusual case that looks like a metal can TO-5 case, without a metal can. It is written "SGS DW 6714 1818", picture two.
The last one is a NE540H. I found quite some information and some sort of a datasheet (attached). It is a integrated amplifier driver which should work with just two complementary output transistors and some peripheral attached. BUT: this datasheet-thingy isn't enough in my oppinion. It says what the pinout looks like, but it doesn't tell me anything about how to configure it and i would love to get more information about this things.
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Hello everyone!
I recently looked through a little pile of old stuff where I found some... interesting devices. Two of them I couldn't find anything about. One is a transistor in a "kind of TO-92 case". It is written C - A 6 16. Picture one.
To me it looks like "C - A S 16", I have seen those somewhere, I didn't find any at home, maybe a thread about an old DDR-DMM in here then...
I think it is a DDR-era transistor, some guys at Chemnitz made a collection of datasheets for DDR-stuff:
https://www.tu-chemnitz.de/etit/zentral/ddr/ (https://www.tu-chemnitz.de/etit/zentral/ddr/)
Didn't find your device there but this might help in further research!
Edit:
Maybe SC116? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/vintage-teardown-and-hopefully-repair-rft-g-1001-500-benchmultimeter/msg367219/#msg367219 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/vintage-teardown-and-hopefully-repair-rft-g-1001-500-benchmultimeter/msg367219/#msg367219)
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SGS was a European semiconductor manufacturer back in the day. That is probably an OEM "house number". Quite possibly the same as a commodity transistor, but custom-labeled for a specific customer. The $20 transistor tester would reveal exactly what kind of device and some key parameters (like gain/hFE, etc.)
SGS Semiconductor Ltd
Merged with STMicroelectronics in 1987, SGS Semiconductor was, at the time, ranked 14th in a list of top semiconductor suppliers. With annual sales exceeding $800 million, the company aggressively pursued a strategy of consolidation within the semiconductor industry. Known for a tireless dedication to innovation within their markets, SGS Semiconductor tasked over one-quarter of their employees and allotted over one-quarter of their annual revenue to research and development.
- See more at: http://www.aeri.com/mfg/sgs-semiconductor-ltd/#sthash.IUFVU7fs.dpuf (http://www.aeri.com/mfg/sgs-semiconductor-ltd/#sthash.IUFVU7fs.dpuf)
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This is probably an easy one... I have some large capacitors, probably film, that are labeled:
W-F 225J
HF200V
:D.
There is also a logo of some sorts that is a M with a rounded box around it. I can post pics if needed. Capacitor is through hole, maybe 3cm pitch, 3.5cm long, 8mm thick, and maybe 1.5cm tall (all approximations, not measurements).
Anybody know what it is? It's from a fairly modern (10 years old maybe?) piece of Japanese test equipment.
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From Matsushita aka Panasonic 200 Volt 2.2µF ±5% capacitor.
This is probably an easy one... I have some large capacitors, probably film, that are labeled:
W-F 225J
HF200V
:D.
There is also a logo of some sorts that is a M with a rounded box around it. I can post pics if needed. Capacitor is through hole, maybe 3cm pitch, 3.5cm long, 8mm thick, and maybe 1.5cm tall (all approximations, not measurements).
Anybody know what it is? It's from a fairly modern (10 years old maybe?) piece of Japanese test equipment.
-
From Matsushita aka Panasonic 200 Volt 2.2µF ±5% capacitor.
This is probably an easy one... I have some large capacitors, probably film, that are labeled:
W-F 225J
HF200V
:D.
There is also a logo of some sorts that is a M with a rounded box around it. I can post pics if needed. Capacitor is through hole, maybe 3cm pitch, 3.5cm long, 8mm thick, and maybe 1.5cm tall (all approximations, not measurements).
Anybody know what it is? It's from a fairly modern (10 years old maybe?) piece of Japanese test equipment.
Yes, that's the logo! Thanks for the help!
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OK one more question for you all!
I have some Sanyo electrolytics on a board. Some are marked
10
---
25
and others are marked
4.7
---
25
Safe to assume these are 10uf/4.7uf 25V caps?
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Yes, but not at the same time!
-
Thanks wiss and Richard Crowley for your informations about these devices!
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This is a little transformer (20x30x30mm) that gave up life in a Hirschmann cable TV amplifier. It's 230 to 15.5V/100mA
It's a PCB mount model, but the thing is that Hirschmann decided not to use a PCB for this one but used some hooks in the metal bottom an plastic top of the case to hold it in place and solder the wires directly to the transformer. I can find enough PCB mount transformers that can do the job, but they will never exactly fit, and I don't want to have the AC contacts rolling around... Apart from glue or tape my option is to find the exact thing, and of course there is no brand (I think...) and the various numbers did not do the job in Google.
TL;DR: Anyone can come up with a brand name for the transformer?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=170676;image)
(http://image.allekabels.nl/image/129-0/hirschmann-antenneversterker-versterking-21-db.jpg)
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Even if you knew the brand name for the transformer, it seems quite likely it is an OEM part that you probably couldn't get at retail.
IME, your chances of finding a mechanical equivalent replacement range between slim and none.
Your best bet would be to find something with the same specs: 15.5V @ 100mA, that fits inside the case.
Or else just convert it to use a wall-wart which should be easy to find.
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Got a picture of the other side ?. it says 15,5V not 15.5V so is it a dual secondary
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Got a picture of the other side ?. it says 15,5V not 15.5V so is it a dual secondary
Or non english, German and Swedish and many other languages use decimal comma. It say "Sek", not "Sec", would make me guess non english.
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Yeah. That's probably a German made transformer.
15,5 V would be 15.5 V in English speaking countries.
Sek. is Sekundär and I'll let you guess what that might be in English ;).
I would probably go and buy an off the shelf 15 V 100 mA transformer of similar or at least suitable dimensions. E.g. something like one of these (https://www.conrad.nl/nl/printtransformatoren-o2170211.html?filterVermogen=1%2C5+VA&filterSecundaire+spanning=15+V).
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This is a little transformer (20x30x30mm) that gave up life in a Hirschmann cable TV amplifier. It's 230 to 15.5V/100mA
TL;DR: Anyone can come up with a brand name for the transformer?
Hirschmann was a German manufacturer.
I can not see anything that looks like a manufacturer name.
All German made transformers I have seen (Block, era, Gerth) look different. It is probably a custom made part from China
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Grab any replacement that fits, and glue it down in the housing with 2 part polyurethane epoxy. Will not melt with heat, and will never let go either. Done it plenty of times, and it works well.
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I have a blown glass, through hole diode. I believe it is a DO-35 package, but am not sure. I believe it says 18B2 on it. I believe it is a zener diode - probably between 12 and 22V (18V would make sense).
Anybody know what this is? I was hoping 18.2V was a standard zener voltage, but it doesn't seem to be.
It is out of some Japanese test equipment and they seem to mostly (only) use Japanese parts. So I would guess it's from a Japanese manufacturer, but am not positive.
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Should be just that 18.2V ZD. Why not test it. Look on Google for "how to test zener diodes"
I have a blown glass, through hole diode. I believe it is a DO-35 package, but am not sure. I believe it says 18B2 on it. I believe it is a zener diode - probably between 12 and 22V (18V would make sense).
Anybody know what this is? I was hoping 18.2V was a standard zener voltage, but it doesn't seem to be.
It is out of some Japanese test equipment and they seem to mostly (only) use Japanese parts. So I would guess it's from a Japanese manufacturer, but am not positive.
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Should be just that 18.2V ZD. Why not test it. Look on Google for "how to test zener diodes"
I have a blown glass, through hole diode. I believe it is a DO-35 package, but am not sure. I believe it says 18B2 on it. I believe it is a zener diode - probably between 12 and 22V (18V would make sense).
...
Language is a funny thing; I'm pretty sure uoficowboy meant "blown" as in defect and not "blown" as in glass blowing ;)
Or do you know more about testing deep fried diodes? I'd imagine they are delicious.
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Deep fried diodes are quite good along a steak
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Should be just that 18.2V ZD. Why not test it. Look on Google for "how to test zener diodes"
I have a blown glass, through hole diode. I believe it is a DO-35 package, but am not sure. I believe it says 18B2 on it. I believe it is a zener diode - probably between 12 and 22V (18V would make sense).
Anybody know what this is? I was hoping 18.2V was a standard zener voltage, but it doesn't seem to be.
It is out of some Japanese test equipment and they seem to mostly (only) use Japanese parts. So I would guess it's from a Japanese manufacturer, but am not positive.
As max666 pointed out - the diode is dead. Totally open.
I verified today with a microscope that it is indeed marked "18B2".
18.2V is not a standard zener voltage... Digi-Key doesn't stock a single one. So I think it's unlikely an 18.2V part.
Right now I'm guessing that it's an 18V, 2% zener. That's a pretty standard/common part. Thoughts?
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PZU18B2 How about that part number as reference? I know that part number is SMD, but so is everything now.
I understand what you meant a DO-35 glass.
To test a Zener is easy if you have a supply above the rated value.
There are also TVS diodes as well but I have never seen them in DO-35 glass.
I used to see these markings on a lot of Japanese electronics in the 80's & 90's. I just replaced them with common sense, a 1W @V Zener. My ECG BOOK for 18B2 says ECG5027 an 18V 1W Zener.
Even if it was 18.2V, an 18V Zener is in tolerance.
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PZU18B2 How about that part number as reference? I know that part number is SMD, but so is everything now.
I understand what you meant a DO-35 glass.
To test a Zener is easy if you have a supply above the rated value.
There are also TVS diodes as well but I have never seen them in DO-35 glass.
I used to see these markings on a lot of Japanese electronics in the 80's & 90's. I just replaced them with common sense, a 1W @V Zener. My ECG BOOK for 18B2 says ECG5027 an 18V 1W Zener.
Even if it was 18.2V, an 18V Zener is in tolerance.
Sounds like we're agreed - 18V zener. What's an ECG book?
I think you're missing the fact that the diode is dead. Big crack down the center. It measures open circuit both directions. I agree that testing a zener's voltage is easy - but it's only easy when the diode isn't dead :)
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ECG stand for Electrocardiogram to me, but I suspect I'm wrong in this case :-DD
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What we old timers used to use before NTE bought them up and used software. ECG was also in bed with Philips.
Sounds like we're agreed - 18V zener. What's an ECG book?
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I think you're missing the fact that the diode is dead. Big crack down the center. It measures open circuit both directions.
So the blown-glass diode has blown open and measures open-circuit.
Alles klar! :)
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OK - one more question.
I have this TO-220 transistor, marked D635, pulled from an old (10 years?) piece of Japanese equipment. I believe it is either an NPN BJT or an NPN darlington. Any idea what it is, and what I can replace it with? It is completely dead (about an ohm between any two terminals).
-
OK - one more question.
I have this TO-220 transistor, marked D635, pulled from an old (10 years?) piece of Japanese equipment. I believe it is either an NPN BJT or an NPN darlington. Any idea what it is, and what I can replace it with? It is completely dead (about an ohm between any two terminals).
As with most Jap transistors add 2S and you get 2SD635
Google "2SD635 data pdf" and you'll have plenty of datsheets to choose from.
-
Even if you Google D635 datasheet you get plenty of hits...
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OK - one more question.
I have this TO-220 transistor, marked D635, pulled from an old (10 years?) piece of Japanese equipment. I believe it is either an NPN BJT or an NPN darlington. Any idea what it is, and what I can replace it with? It is completely dead (about an ohm between any two terminals).
As with most Jap transistors add 2S and you get 2SD635
Google "2SD635 data pdf" and you'll have plenty of datsheets to choose from.
So I had seen the 2SD635 - which is a darlington - but there is also a BD635, which is not a darlington. Is there any way to confirm which it is?
Also, do you recognize the logo on that transistor? It reminds me of the Fairchild logo - but it's not the same.
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OK - one more question.
I have this TO-220 transistor, marked D635, pulled from an old (10 years?) piece of Japanese equipment. I believe it is either an NPN BJT or an NPN darlington. Any idea what it is, and what I can replace it with? It is completely dead (about an ohm between any two terminals).
As with most Jap transistors add 2S and you get 2SD635
Google "2SD635 data pdf" and you'll have plenty of datsheets to choose from.
So I had seen the 2SD635 - which is a darlington - but there is also a BD635, which is not a darlington. Is there any way to confirm which it is?
Also, do you recognize the logo on that transistor? It reminds me of the Fairchild logo - but it's not the same.
In my experience it is much more common that this would be a 2S device, a BD device would normally have the full device code, not shortened like is common with Asian devices.
A check of specs against the application normally proves which is which and restores sanity. :phew:
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Even if you Google D635 datasheet you get plenty of hits...
The problem is that Google turns up multiple similar parts that both have D635 in their part number and are in the same package.
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OK - one more question.
I have this TO-220 transistor, marked D635, pulled from an old (10 years?) piece of Japanese equipment. I believe it is either an NPN BJT or an NPN darlington. Any idea what it is, and what I can replace it with? It is completely dead (about an ohm between any two terminals).
As with most Jap transistors add 2S and you get 2SD635
Google "2SD635 data pdf" and you'll have plenty of datsheets to choose from.
So I had seen the 2SD635 - which is a darlington - but there is also a BD635, which is not a darlington. Is there any way to confirm which it is?
Also, do you recognize the logo on that transistor? It reminds me of the Fairchild logo - but it's not the same.
In my experience it is much more common that this would be a 2S device, a BD device would normally have the full device code, not shortened like is common with Asian devices.
A check of specs against the application normally proves which is which and restores sanity. :phew:
I think you're right.
The D635 device is being used as a voltage regulator - there is a zener holding up its base voltage, and its collector is tied to an unregulated supply. The BD635 has pretty low gain so it'd require more current on the base it than the pullup on the zener/base could really handle (4.7K). 2SD635 it must be!
I just ordered some up. Hopefully that'll be the final strange part this device needs...
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Also, do you recognize the logo on that transistor? It reminds me of the Fairchild logo - but it's not the same.
Toshiba
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I am guessing that this is an Operational Amplifier but I am unable to find any reference or datasheet for it. I think it is because it is from pre-internet era of 1984. I have tried to search it on one of big supplier's website - "RS", also no luck. If anyone recognizes it - thanks in advance!
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RS 307-468, which is a house coded part supplied by RS. Not available in the online catalogue, but probably is in the paper catalogue as a discontinued part number. If a single opamp it will be a 741or a 308 most likely, or if a dual any one of many generic audio amplifier chips. Single you will have to see where the offset pins are connected to determine if 741, offset to -15V, or 308 offset to +15V.
-
googling the rs part number gets you this
ZN459 data sheet : ETC1 - ULTRA LOW NOISE WIDEBAND PREAMPLIFIER
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Seems to agree, but no longer stocked by RS for some reason. Will be a little hard to get a drop in replacement if it is faulty, as it is a dual unit with controlled gain.
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Thank you very much! ZN459 makes perfect sense!
I did not realize that it is the second number that is RS part number - nice to know for future.
It looks obsolete but only thing I needed to know is bandwidth and noise. 800pV/Hz^0.5 - will be hard to match ... but it is still available from few places ~$20/piece.
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I cannot find any data sheet about this varistor (7N241K 39+) that I pulled out of a cordless phone (Samsung).
It ended up solving a problem I was having on a bredboard test circuit by mistake (I thought it was a ceramic capacitor).
A basic idea of what it is to be able to buy an equivalent would be lovely!
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I cannot find any data sheet about this varistor (7N241K 39+)
Try to search for jvr7n241k
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I cannot find any data sheet about this varistor (7N241K 39+) that I pulled out of a cordless phone (Samsung).
It ended up solving a problem I was having on a bredboard test circuit by mistake (I thought it was a ceramic capacitor).
A basic idea of what it is to be able to buy an equivalent would be lovely!
Here: https://vikiwat.com/productfile/433/userfiles-productimages-17262-varistor-jvr7n241k-200-vdc-150-vac-0.pdf (https://vikiwat.com/productfile/433/userfiles-productimages-17262-varistor-jvr7n241k-200-vdc-150-vac-0.pdf) :)
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I cannot find any data sheet about this varistor (7N241K 39+)
Try to search for jvr7n241k
I cannot find any data sheet about this varistor (7N241K 39+) that I pulled out of a cordless phone (Samsung).
It ended up solving a problem I was having on a bredboard test circuit by mistake (I thought it was a ceramic capacitor).
A basic idea of what it is to be able to buy an equivalent would be lovely!
Here: https://vikiwat.com/productfile/433/userfiles-productimages-17262-varistor-jvr7n241k-200-vdc-150-vac-0.pdf (https://vikiwat.com/productfile/433/userfiles-productimages-17262-varistor-jvr7n241k-200-vdc-150-vac-0.pdf) :)
Thanks, I was searching in the wrong range, I pulled this put of a 6V device, I was sure it was not 240V... Live and learn.
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I'm looking for some information on 4 ICs. They all come from an automotive engine controller. I have found several sites where I can buy new ones, but that's not what I need. I would prefer to have the full datasheet, but the most helpful information for me would be the pinouts. Does anyone have any idea where I can find them?
First one looks like maybe a small microcontroller?
Made by ST.
45048
1MU2114.
This is the only one for which I have found nothing at all.
Second one is a PMIC.
Made by Freescale.
SC900656VW
A2C020162
I have found at least 4 outputs from the IC - 3 at 5V and one at 2.6V.
Third one seems to be an injector driver based on the descriptions I've found online.
Made by ST.
ATIC39-B4
A2C08350
Fourth one I don't know the function.
Made by ST.
A2C31376-C3
ATIC35
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If you can't find any documentation via Google, etc. then it seems extraordinarily likely that they are industry-specific or even full-custom chips made specifically for vehicular ECU products. Good luck finding ANY documentation. There are many chips like this which are sold within a tight-knit community of vendor and a handful of customers. The documents are never published or released to anyone except their industrial OEM customers.
This didn't come out of a Volkswagen Diesel, did it? ???
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Navistar. They don't have the information on their electronics, someone else builds it for them.
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Thanks, I was searching in the wrong range, I pulled this put of a 6V device, I was sure it was not 240V... Live and learn.
Used on the phone line side, to clamp impulse noise to something the line side can survive. Mostly used to provide protection to close lightning strikes, a direct one on the line just blows the whole phone apart.
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So this one isn't too complicated. Looks to me like a 1K metal film resistor. The trouble is that according to the service manual (it's from a Fluke 45), it's a 3.3K Wire wound. I just want to verify that it's a 1K and what type it is.
The outside has a blue and a brown line on it with a decent sized space in between. After breaking off the epoxy, it just looks like a metal tube. There are 2 slots cut in it. I broke it in half and it's all white inside. No idea the material, ceramic maybe.
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Yes, it certainly looks like a film resistor.
The resistance is the coating on the surface of the ceramic "plug".
The "slots" are probably where they "trimmed" the value with a laser.
You didn't mention WHY you removed it? (Or why you destroyed it?)
You can't tell the value (1K vs 3K3 or any other value) by looking at it.
Didn't you measure it? Why would you think it is "1K"?
If the document says 3K3, then why would you want to put anything else in there?
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I have 4 Fluke 45's that were all damaged by either high voltage on the input or some sort of weird ground noise from testing a HV DC/DC converter. On a good Fluke 45, this measures 1K-Ohm dead nuts (in circuit). I took it apart because a good one measures 1K, but the diagram shows 3.3K.
I've attached the schematic and the parts list. Offending part is R5.
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I don't see "3.3K" anywhere in the parts list. I see R5 shown as 3.5K
I also see that R5 and RT1 appear to have been hand-altered after the diagram was published.
Perhaps you have the wrong schematic for your make/model/serial number.
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I have 4 Fluke 45's that were all damaged by either high voltage on the input or some sort of weird ground noise from testing a HV DC/DC converter. On a good Fluke 45, this measures 1K-Ohm dead nuts (in circuit). I took it apart because a good one measures 1K, but the diagram shows 3.3K.
I've attached the schematic and the parts list. Offending part is R5.
What is the colour code of the resistor in the good Fluke 45?
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I don't see "3.3K" anywhere in the parts list. I see R5 shown as 3.5K
I also see that R5 and RT1 appear to have been hand-altered after the diagram was published.
Perhaps you have the wrong schematic for your make/model/serial number.
Oops. I meant to say 3.5K, not sure why I have 3.3K stuck in my head. Nearest I can tell is that there's only the one schematic.
What is the colour code of the resistor in the good Fluke 45?
The good one is the same on the outside. It has a blue stripe and a green stripe just like the original picture.
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I recently got a Kikusui PLZ150W load on Ebay. It's missing one of the plastic nut things on the terminals on the front. Picture attached.
Anybody know where I can get another one? For size, it's compatible with a 4mm banana jack. Not sure about the thread size but I can probably figure it out of needed.
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Get a pair of new ones that will fit. This type of thing is not usually sold in pieces, not these cheapies at all.
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Find one of these BNC-to-banana adapters and I think that plastic thing that is on it will fit your load. Perhaps you can find one that will fit just by looking at photos on whichever site you buy it from.
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They're called "pole terminal". Any electronics store/webshop should have them in different quality grades.
(http://www.conrad.com/medias/global/ce/7000_7999/7300/7330/7337/733764_BB_00_FB.EPS_1000.jpg)
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12R cood
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Get a pair of new ones that will fit. This type of thing is not usually sold in pieces, not these cheapies at all.
This ^.
There are so many different brands, manufacturers, etc. that it is unlikely that you will be able to match the thread from a "random" part to fit your particular banana jack terminal. Unless you know someone who is parting out that same power supply model.... unlikely.
Get a pair of new ones (the entire assembly) that will fit.
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This fuse like thing was in an Anritsu voltmeter. anyone know what it is ?
(http://i.imgur.com/ybjhVug.jpg)
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Its as the marking on the panel implies, its an elapsed time indicator, not a fuse:
Discussion of something similar here (scroll down)
http://www.forum.radios-tv.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4861 (http://www.forum.radios-tv.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4861)
http://www.forum.radios-tv.co.uk/download/file.php?id=9382&sid=edf1198a99128074e6af309fa2528d3d&mode=view (http://www.forum.radios-tv.co.uk/download/file.php?id=9382&sid=edf1198a99128074e6af309fa2528d3d&mode=view)
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This fuse like thing was in an Anritsu voltmeter. anyone know what it is ?
Hint: it is labeled exactly as it is right above...
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More info on the elapsed timer. Here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxj399LuX1M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxj399LuX1M)
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So I finally took time to take a picture of the weird components in the farnell power supply I get (LS 30-10)
From the component silkscreen, they are Tx like the two transformer, but I found the shape a bit strange, anyone has info on them?
Edit: with picture it's even better :D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160114/264a56c9ae549ac42606fc5197423494.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160114/9875b7eaa938c3efbd627b054dc18c42.jpg)
Edit2: By the way, if any one have the documentation/schematics that was given with this power supply, I would be really please if you can share. The only thing I found was that: http://www.ioffer.com/i/farnell-ls30-10-power-supply-schematic-circuit-diagram-522130208 (http://www.ioffer.com/i/farnell-ls30-10-power-supply-schematic-circuit-diagram-522130208) but I don't really want to pay something dubious, and especially because if was given for free with the power supply (I want to check if the low rampup time is due to the capacitors, that are may going to fail, or if it's normal)
(Ho, the big caps there seems to be rubycon one, yummy :))
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If they have more than two terminals, then they are almost certainly transformers. And if only two, then they are inductors.
In either case it seems quite unlikely that they have any significant failure mode (at least without a dozen other components also failing).
It looks like a switch-mode power-supply (SMPS). Slow ramp-up time seems like an early warning of imminent failure. Unless it was specifically designed that way for whatever purpose in the larger picture.
SMPS are generally quite difficult to repair, even WITH the schematic diagram. Most of us just replace the entire SMPS with a new one because they are much cheaper to replace than to repair.
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That would be sad, it's a nearly 30year old power supply :( (in good conditions)
The initial rise time is not that bad, it's more when changing the current limiter or the voltage output that it is a bit slow, it's maybe inherent to this power supply)
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hello I need some advice about this diode, I need to find a modern equivalent, It says at the body T 3D 0j, nothing else, I googled it but can't find anything, sorry for the bad pictures they are the best I can take, if somebody can help thanks
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What is it from/ what is its purpose? Rectifier, something else?
-Pat
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If you can't Google the markings, then you are probably better off replacing it by description/specification.
You should be able to tell from the circuit what the voltage and current ratings should be.
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it's a rectifier, from an old stereo Gradiente DS 700, can't find the schematics either
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it's a rectifier, from an old stereo Gradiente DS 700, can't find the schematics either
For mains or low voltage?
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eh, nevermind SK 308 - 1 amp/ 1000volt one should be enough, thanks anyway
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Not a component per se -
This was attached to the top of an Intel WG82574 QFN64 package Ethernet chip on a Commell fanless SBC. It seems to be made of a ceramic material and is fixed by double-sided tape. You can see it in-situ here http://www.globalamericaninc.com/commell-le-374.html (http://www.globalamericaninc.com/commell-le-374.html), it's between the bottom of the mag jack and the main heatsink.
I've never seen this before so I wondered if anybody recognised it? The only guesses I can come up with is either a head shield to protect the chip from heat radiating from the main CPU heatsink (the 82574 itself has a large thermal pad) or maybe some form of EMI absorption? The pad shows no sign of magnetism though.
I'm inclined to think heat shield. We have a couple of hundred of these and I have a 3-4 with Ethernet failure after a couple of year's service - the only mode of failure to date.
Edit: pic attached
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Ceramic heat sink. Supposedly more efficient than regular ones, but nearly impossible to clean...
http://uk.farnell.com/amec-thermasol/mpc151525t/heat-sink-ceramic-15-15-2-5-std/dp/1892471 (http://uk.farnell.com/amec-thermasol/mpc151525t/heat-sink-ceramic-15-15-2-5-std/dp/1892471)
http://www.banana-pi.net/index.php/en/product/banana-pi/heat-sink/sic-ceramic-heat-sink-for-banana-pi-detail (http://www.banana-pi.net/index.php/en/product/banana-pi/heat-sink/sic-ceramic-heat-sink-for-banana-pi-detail)
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Ceramic heat sink. Supposedly more efficient than regular ones, but nearly impossible to clean...
http://uk.farnell.com/amec-thermasol/mpc151525t/heat-sink-ceramic-15-15-2-5-std/dp/1892471 (http://uk.farnell.com/amec-thermasol/mpc151525t/heat-sink-ceramic-15-15-2-5-std/dp/1892471)
http://www.banana-pi.net/index.php/en/product/banana-pi/heat-sink/sic-ceramic-heat-sink-for-banana-pi-detail (http://www.banana-pi.net/index.php/en/product/banana-pi/heat-sink/sic-ceramic-heat-sink-for-banana-pi-detail)
That's the one, thanks! I actually took a quick look through that section of Farnell's site as I buy most of my components from them but missed that :-[
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Could someone please help me ID this? The closest anyone has been able to come to a positive ID is "some type od audio related equipment". (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160205/d939e75a65868c20eabd1d13e49f6f1a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160205/b88efac3b7a7dd4478589386113e9df5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160205/0c7fe11e991de356dde37484937a0d71.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160205/f69c22a79485f913127d4b3a82b40ebd.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160205/f653b6c665ebe020b777e8b7a8dc947d.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Crossover network for a 2 way speaker.
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Crossover network for a 2 way speaker.
Thanks. That came in a "grab bag" of random components and stumped the entire EET department.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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... and stumped the entire EET department.
Seriously? Wow.
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+1 yes it is sad that they did not know what it was (or is)
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Well, they were able to isolate it to "audio component". That's something. ????
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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... and stumped the entire EET department.
Seriously? Wow.
There seems to be a whole generation (or two?) of people who have never practiced "Don't turn it on, take it apart!", and likely don't even understand why anyone would do that. They are appliance operators who don't have the slightest clue (or even curiosity) what's inside their high-tech toys. Users of a certain brand of computers and other products named after a common fruit are a prime example of this "dumb-user" class.
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I wouldn't have thought that would have applied to an EET department!
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Users of a certain brand of computers and other products named after a common fruit are a prime example of this "dumb-user" class.
Just read that again....
:-+
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I take exception to your careless slander of Apricot PC users!
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Awww..... The Apricot. *fond memories*
I remember them when they first came out. They weren't too bad.
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This Mitsubishi chip is coming from 1990s wireless modem. My Google-fu technique is pretty good but I failed to find any reference to it. What is this? Mixer, amplifier, filter? Perhaps somebody recognize this or somebody know how to look it up?
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Dear Forum members,
Does anybody have clue where I can find the datasheet of this IC ? It seems to be re-badged or something. Seems to look like this one, VX1937 VGA-to-AV/S Video Converter, but the crystal which is on the pcb is 24Mhz not 27Mhz...
Thanks in advance.
Toshio
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Dear Forum members,
Does anybody have clue where I can find the datasheet of this IC ? It seems to be re-badged or something. Seems to look like this one, VX1937 VGA-to-AV/S Video Converter, but the crystal which is on the pcb is 24Mhz not 27Mhz...
Did you try checking pins? If Ground pins, power pins and other pints that you can identify are on same positions then it must be just re-branded IC you guessed.
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Yes I tried checking some pins, but I can't find the datasheet of the vx1937 (pin layout) either, so this makes it a bit harder. Well maybe its just better to put this vga converter in the bin, and connect my c64 to a lcd instead of an old crt :)
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Awww..... The Apricot. *fond memories*
I remember them when they first came out. They weren't too bad.
We had an "Orange" at work.
I only remember the name because of the time I upset everyone.
The "Computer Guru" had written a nice program that allowed you to enter the name of a remote radio or TV site,& it would show the status of that station.
In its final form,it was intended to dial up the site & download the data ,but at the time was set up with a dummy source of information.
I entered "Kununurra",& it went crazy,scrolling through every station on the network.
It turned out that the programmer had misspelled the station as "Kununarra".
I swore off Computers for a while!
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I got plenty of these in a grab bag. Wondering what they are, and how they can be used. There is a part number but I cannot find any datasheet. Looks like some sort of LED/optical component. Would be great to know how to use the component.
(http://[IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/3307nsz.jpg)
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A guess would be an LDR, but never seen one in a package like that. :-//
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I would guess some kind of photo diode/transistor for quadrature sensing.
similar to here: http://www.didel.com/microkit/encoder/Encoder.html (http://www.didel.com/microkit/encoder/Encoder.html)
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My guess: It is a position sensor. I have a similar sensor in a different package. It is either 4 independent photodiodes, or a single large photodiode with connections on all 4 sides. If you measure and compare the 4 currents you can estimate the exact position of a small light beam on the sensor.
I found this, it looks like my guess is correkt:
http://letsmakerobots.com/node/37867 (http://letsmakerobots.com/node/37867)
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Thanks for your answers. It seems like it is in fact some sort of position sensor. What would something like this be used in? I am assuming that for anything that wants to move across and get detected the travel would be very small. Any ideas where this might come from or be used?
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This is the kind of sensor you see used with a laser beam and X-Y servos where you can sense how far to the right or left you are from the beam, and how high or low. And then re-position to center the beam in the mid-point of the sensors. Or using a pin-hole beam from a sun-tracking system to follow the sun across the sky, etc.
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I love the idea for tracking the Sun Richard. I'll see if I can put something together with two of these to track on a vertical+horizontal axis. Might be a cool little project to maximize solar cell efficiency. I don't have any large panels, but it will be interesting to see if it's worth the power needed to run a small system. I am assuming that it is always worth it with large panels. Thanks everyone.
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The commong name for this type of sensor is PSD: position sensitive detector
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Position_sensitive_device
Using this term you should find many appnotes with more or less usefull usages.
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Great Find! Now I know where to look - searching for "Position Sensitive Detector" gives a lot of good articles. :-+
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Hello Forum :)
I just spend the whole yesterday afternoon to find a mating connector that can be mounted on to a plastic Housing, but i was unable to find the right one ( If there is any).
I have contacted the Manufacturer of the Rollerdrive but they just replied that i should buy their controller. :(
Attached two pictures of a cut of one and a link to the PDF from the Product where the connector is attached to. (The DIP IC is just for size reference)
http://www.interroll.de/fileadmin/products/de/Resources_pdf_441307019.pdf (http://www.interroll.de/fileadmin/products/de/Resources_pdf_441307019.pdf)
Hope you have better luck 8)
Greetings Dennis
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Hello all,
I am trying to find a STMicro part from its markings but I'm having no luck at all. It is a TO-220 part with markings "130 082" on the first line, "GKO5D VU" on the second line, and "CHN 209" on the third line. I've searched everywhere on the internet that I can think of but nothing is found for the part. I've also inquired on the STMicro support site(twice even) and have gotten no response from them.
Any ideas on the ST part number and date code for this part? I have a bunch(meaning a couple hundred) I'd like to sell so anyone who knows, and can help identify, will get first dibs on purchasing at a great discount!
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
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It seems likely it is a "house number" and not a commodity ST product number.
So it is either a regular ST part with the customer's special inventory number,
or else it is a custom part (either custom designed, fabricated, tested or packaged).
Do you have one of those "$20 LCR ESR Transistor Diode Checker" gadgets?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/)
Chances seem pretty good that you can plug most any kind of unknown part like this in, and it will identify what it is, and the basic ratings.
If you don't have one of those things, I very strongly suggest getting one.
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Thanks for the reply Richard. You may be right about a non-standard part number.
I do have one of that type of testers but I was hoping to be able to link it up with its datasheet.
Thanks again for your help. The search continues....... |O
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Thanks for your answers. It seems like it is in fact some sort of position sensor. What would something like this be used in? I am assuming that for anything that wants to move across and get detected the travel would be very small. Any ideas where this might come from or be used?
Quad photo-diodes are used in Atomic Force Microscopes to detect when the tip gets close to the surface and regulate the Z-piezo.
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Thanks for your answers. It seems like it is in fact some sort of position sensor. What would something like this be used in? I am assuming that for anything that wants to move across and get detected the travel would be very small. Any ideas where this might come from or be used?
These linear photodiodes / phototransistors were used in early optical mice with a printed grid. The 4 outputs move in quadrature when a shadow passes over the sensor.
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I maybe peeing into the wind here guys but if anyone can help me, you can. I've got an IC here from a microscope camera that popped on me a
while ago when a DC-DC converter failed.
The chip in question is a 32pin QFN showing the following codes: ES 2A / GOR
EDIT:::: It's ok guys I think I've found it .. ( Richtek - RT9992ZQW ES )
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v146/orbiter/2_zpsbwoat93c.jpg)
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The chip in question is a 32pin QFN showing the following codes: ES 2A / GOR
EDIT:::: It's ok guys I think I've found it .. ( Richtek - RT9992ZQW ES )
It looks like it would be the RT9992, as you found.
In case you did not find the datasheet: http://www.szfujiawei.com/aspweb_editor/UploadFile/products/201469151446853.pdf (http://www.szfujiawei.com/aspweb_editor/UploadFile/products/201469151446853.pdf)
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Thanks for that Belgarion :-+
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Hello all,
I am trying to find a STMicro part from its markings but I'm having no luck at all. It is a TO-220 part with markings "130 082" on the first line, "GKO5D VU" on the second line, and "CHN 209" on the third line. I've searched everywhere on the internet that I can think of but nothing is found for the part. I've also inquired on the STMicro support site(twice even) and have gotten no response from them.
Any ideas on the ST part number and date code for this part? I have a bunch(meaning a couple hundred) I'd like to sell so anyone who knows, and can help identify, will get first dibs on purchasing at a great discount!
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
It looks like house numbering - but at the same time the 08 and 05 make it look like its a 5 volt regulator (maybe a 7805). If you show us the circuit you found it in, you might be easily able to tell what it is. Also, if it is indeed a regulator,
A standard 7805 e.g. from ST (got from Mouser) is numbered:
First line: L7805ACV
Second Line: GKDSL V6
Third line: CHN 506
So that tells me that the second and third lines do not really give you any helpful info. With 130 082 on the first line, it looks like it is house numbering. Now, the cheap ebay testers WILL NOT be able to tell you if this is a Regulator e.g., but if it's a Triac or transistor they will - not that that is very useful! Why don't you just start checking it out with a multimeter for diode drops etc.? BTW. if this was taken from a circuit and if you show us the circuit the part was on, it will be really easy to guess.
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*snip* If you show us the circuit you found it in, you might be easily able to tell what it is. Also, if it is indeed a regulator, *snip* if this was taken from a circuit and if you show us the circuit the part was on, it will be really easy to guess.
The device in his pic looks brand new so I guess he got it by itself or in a grab bag.
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Hi all.. I'm assuming this is a Ti DC-DC converter, It comes from the small PSU for a microscope camera. However I can't seem to find a replacement
or datasheet for this exact one.. It's coded.. VUBI, Ti33, ADD1.
Could anyone please tell me what it equates to or where to find a replacement?
Many Thanks
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v146/orbiter/1_zpsm8rygmph.jpg)
This is the PSU it's from.. Yes there is 1 blown trace, but luckily it's not used :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v146/orbiter/IMAG0526_zpswyrezfal.jpg)
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Could anyone please tell me what it equates to or where to find a replacement?
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv62130.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv62130.pdf)
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Could anyone please tell me what it equates to or where to find a replacement?
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv62130.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv62130.pdf)
Thanks PA0PBZ. I had seen datasheet previously.. Do you know for sure that.. that is a direct replacement for the VUBI Ti33? I only ask as the part numbers are totally different and I don't have a
datasheet of the VUBI chip to compare it too?
Many Thanks
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You don't have a "VUBI"
You have a TLV62130ARGTT and the SMD marking code is "VUBI".
Did you miss the table on the addendum page 1?
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You don't have a "VUBI"
You have a TLV62130ARGTT and the SMD marking code is "VUBI".
Did you miss the table on the addendum page 1?
Yes I did miss that, thank you for pointing me at it :-+
So what is the Ti33 number as I have seen other IC's using the 'VUBI' top line but then letters like.. Ti55, Ti48, Ti36 etc.. Are these all the same TLV62130** ?
Thanks
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VUBI means TLV62130ARGTT regardless of the rest of the nomenclature.
VUBI is just the "nick-name" for TLV62130ARGTT.
"Ti" sounds suspiciously like "Texas Instruments"
The two-digit numbers are probably an encoded date code.
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VUBI means TLV62130ARGTT regardless of the rest of the nomenclature.
VUBI is just the "nick-name" for TLV62130ARGTT.
"Ti" sounds suspiciously like "Texas Instruments"
The two-digit numbers are probably an encoded date code.
I appreciate the help Richard. Thank You.
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Whats a SH capacitor?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271911574317?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271911574317?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Would these be suitable for 200-300ma power supply filtering? Not sure what the 2.5a rating on the side is for. Im asuming these are not electrolytic since they are rated for AC?
Never seen these before. The price is.....nice...... :-+ :-DD
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Google reveals: http://www.ehow.com/info_11386135_sh-capacitor.html (http://www.ehow.com/info_11386135_sh-capacitor.html)
"SH" appears to mean "self-healing".
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Google reveals: http://www.ehow.com/info_11386135_sh-capacitor.html (http://www.ehow.com/info_11386135_sh-capacitor.html)
"SH" appears to mean "self-healing".
Interesting! I just assumed they were some variation of an electrolytic.
I wonder if the current rating is the maximum current they can pass and still operate, since it appears to relate to frequency. I have a high voltage (400v DC) lab power supply project, I wonder how well these would fit the bill. :-+
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Richard you should have tagged the ehow link as Not Safe For Work!
That article talks about "metal foils exposing themselves to each other" :-DD
I also find "a thin layer of metal vacuum replaces the aluminum foils" quite shocking. Don't play with "metal vacuum" kids!
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*snip* If you show us the circuit you found it in, you might be easily able to tell what it is. Also, if it is indeed a regulator, *snip* if this was taken from a circuit and if you show us the circuit the part was on, it will be really easy to guess.
The device in his pic looks brand new so I guess he got it by itself or in a grab bag.
Yeah, brand new. I have 490 of them and really want to do something with them!
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Hello all,
I am trying to find a STMicro part from its markings but I'm having no luck at all. It is a TO-220 part with markings "130 082" on the first line, "GKO5D VU" on the second line, and "CHN 209" on the third line. I've searched everywhere on the internet that I can think of but nothing is found for the part. I've also inquired on the STMicro support site(twice even) and have gotten no response from them.
Any ideas on the ST part number and date code for this part? I have a bunch(meaning a couple hundred) I'd like to sell so anyone who knows, and can help identify, will get first dibs on purchasing at a great discount!
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
It looks like house numbering - but at the same time the 08 and 05 make it look like its a 5 volt regulator (maybe a 7805). If you show us the circuit you found it in, you might be easily able to tell what it is. Also, if it is indeed a regulator,
A standard 7805 e.g. from ST (got from Mouser) is numbered:
First line: L7805ACV
Second Line: GKDSL V6
Third line: CHN 506
So that tells me that the second and third lines do not really give you any helpful info. With 130 082 on the first line, it looks like it is house numbering. Now, the cheap ebay testers WILL NOT be able to tell you if this is a Regulator e.g., but if it's a Triac or transistor they will - not that that is very useful! Why don't you just start checking it out with a multimeter for diode drops etc.? BTW. if this was taken from a circuit and if you show us the circuit the part was on, it will be really easy to guess.
Thanks for the info! Yeah, the second and third aren't helpful at this point. I wish I had a reference circuit - I have 490 brand new that I'd like to figure out what to do with but I'm still stuck. Sure would be nice if the STMicro support page would respond. I've inquired twice, they update their page and say it is "assigned" but they never respond - not even an email to say they are looking into it. Doesn't say much for their customer support!!
Thanks a ton for your help and suggestions! The quest continues!
|O
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Does MFD on old capacitors mean uF?
(http://i.imgur.com/e9Q9ZGQs.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/e9Q9ZGQ.jpg)
Alexander.
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Does MFD on old capacitors mean uF?
Yes
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Does MFD on old capacitors mean uF?
Yes.
And "MMFD" means pF.
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Replacement is a 15000uF 100V capacitor.
http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/6832011/ (http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/6832011/)
However if you are a little price concious this will probably also work well in this application, slightly lower capacitance ( but at this size likely within the tolerances of the original)
http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/8526531/ (http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/8526531/)
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Yeah, brand new. I have 490 of them and really want to do something with them!
Well, since you can't get the info you need, might as well do some basic diode tests to see what they are (BJT? FET? Thyristor?). Or even try using them as 78XX or 79XX regulators and see what happens.
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Does MFD on old capacitors mean uF?
Yes
And it also means it is rather old. So it may be prudent to measure the ESR and determine if it is drying our or showing other signs of approaching its end of life.
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Yeah, brand new. I have 490 of them and really want to do something with them!
Well, since you can't get the info you need, might as well do some basic diode tests to see what they are (BJT? FET? Thyristor?). Or even try using them as 78XX or 79XX regulators and see what happens.
And those combo component testers on Ebay are well <$20 these days. They do a marvelous job of identifying what kind of component it is, and even giving some basic measurements (like hFE, etc.) IMHO they are a "must-have" for anyone who plays with mystery components.
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And it also means it is rather old. So it may be prudent to measure the ESR and determine if it is drying our or showing other signs of approaching its end of life.
How do you guys determine what ESR value is good or bad? That does depend on capacity and voltage rating, does it not? Or is Quality/Dissipation factor a better criterion?
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Datasheet. There are rules of thumb with for capacity/voltage, but the real values come from datasheets.
From this (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dissipation_factor) Wiki:
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/math/b/5/2/b52297ae7743b37cba4f2b9256a50f3b.png)
Or in other words: it doesn't matter if you use DF, ESR or QF, they can all be derived from that formula. Most datasheets seem to spec DF.
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Damn, I was hoping there would be an easier way, I don't want to look for capacitor datasheets every time I suspect a bad CapXon cap :/
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Damn, I was hoping there would be an easier way, I don't want to look for capacitor datasheets every time I suspect a bad CapXon cap :/
Plenty of bad caps will be an order of magnitude worse than their ideal value. Once you have a good general idea of what they shoukd be, it isn't too hard to tell.
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The values that are printed on the cap are going to be enough in many applications. But please beware that there are also applications in which the ESR can be an important factor in the stability of the circuit. Too low or too high an ESR can then lead to problems when you replace a cap willy nilly.
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Pictures from ebay, anyone know what chip this is ?
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I'm going to hazard a guess: a 3.3 V regulator, of possibly a generic Asian brand.
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Pictures from ebay, anyone know what chip this is ?
At a guess, it is a "IBM-46M0864-46M0832-Feature-Key-for-Upgrading-IBM-M1015-RAID-5-50". (Google image search is great).
My guess it is a small 6-pin programmable micro that is coded in a way that it is very hard to copy. Perhaps the RAID send this board a random code, and this chip replies with a correctly hashed version of the code back. This would mean that capturing the communication is useless because it will be different every time.
If it just sends only, then if you had one, you could capture the code and try and make a circuit to copy the functionality.
It seems like it can run with two wires so power and data are sent over the same two wires. Something like the Dallas/Maxim 1-Wire technology.
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Oh! Oh! May I?
The hand drawn part is the rough copy of the silk screen that was under the component. Basically a zigzag in a rectangle. Probably some power component, but I have never seen the symbol, so no idea.
EDIT: added a picture with a ruler. It's about 10mm wide.
Any idea why all pictures in this thread appear completely scrambled to me? (especially the above two.)
Other than that, yes, I also find this topic extremely useful as I regularly wished anyone could give me more info about an unknown part, especially connectors.
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Any idea why all pictures in this thread appear completely scrambled to me?
I don't see any "scrambling". Perhaps something is wrong with your browser.
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Awww..... The Apricot. *fond memories*
I remember them when they first came out. They weren't too bad.
They were bloody awful, used to have to put a sheet of copper under the tiop cover of some of them to stop them interfering with the monitor. And the power supplies, some of them just.. *ugh* They moved on to Astec ones which had a nasty habit of chucking out -48V when some of the smoothing caps died.
We used to make *lots* of money from Apricot computer owners.
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I've got another challenge for everyone - this time with a big pay off!
I'm trying to figure out what a N40-5835SP is. I'm told it's a voltage regulator but can't find any info. Alibaba has several show up when searching but no datasheet or info.
So here's the payoff - for the first one to supply the following - if you can send me the manufacturer datasheet, or point me to a link for the real manufacturer datasheet, I'll send you a full tube for free!! That's 55 parts!! Free shipping to the USA as well.
The full markings on the 14 pin SOIC are "HII N40-5835SP 1203CGIX" No doubt the 1203 is the date code for the 3rd week of 2012.
I've attached a photo for your reference as well.
Any takers? I've looked everywhere and can't find a thing. Good luck!!
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Hello all,
I am trying to find a STMicro part from its markings but I'm having no luck at all. It is a TO-220 part with markings "130 082" on the first line, "GKO5D VU" on the second line, and "CHN 209" on the third line. I've searched everywhere on the internet that I can think of but nothing is found for the part. I've also inquired on the STMicro support site(twice even) and have gotten no response from them.
Any ideas on the ST part number and date code for this part? I have a bunch(meaning a couple hundred) I'd like to sell so anyone who knows, and can help identify, will get first dibs on purchasing at a great discount!
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
It looks like house numbering - but at the same time the 08 and 05 make it look like its a 5 volt regulator (maybe a 7805). If you show us the circuit you found it in, you might be easily able to tell what it is. Also, if it is indeed a regulator,
A standard 7805 e.g. from ST (got from Mouser) is numbered:
First line: L7805ACV
Second Line: GKDSL V6
Third line: CHN 506
So that tells me that the second and third lines do not really give you any helpful info. With 130 082 on the first line, it looks like it is house numbering. Now, the cheap ebay testers WILL NOT be able to tell you if this is a Regulator e.g., but if it's a Triac or transistor they will - not that that is very useful! Why don't you just start checking it out with a multimeter for diode drops etc.? BTW. if this was taken from a circuit and if you show us the circuit the part was on, it will be really easy to guess.
Thanks for the info! Yeah, the second and third aren't helpful at this point. I wish I had a reference circuit - I have 490 brand new that I'd like to figure out what to do with but I'm still stuck. Sure would be nice if the STMicro support page would respond. I've inquired twice, they update their page and say it is "assigned" but they never respond - not even an email to say they are looking into it. Doesn't say much for their customer support!!
Thanks a ton for your help and suggestions! The quest continues!
|O
Hello again - I just had a thought that maybe an incentive would help - say a free tube of 50 with free shipping to the USA for the first person to send me the real manufacturer datasheet or a link to the real manufacturer datasheet!! I'm still hopeful that these will be found but I'm getting desperate!!
Thanks for any help!
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Any idea why all pictures in this thread appear completely scrambled to me?
I don't see any "scrambling". Perhaps something is wrong with your browser.
I don't think there's a problem with my browser as I've just tested another one (aka Seamonkey) and the pictures appear scrambled — or should I say «deteriorated» — just like this:
(http://imgur.com/XSJcBfol.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/XSJcBfo.png)
Sure the pictures are more than 5 years old but even then I'd have expected a 404, not that kind of woopsie...
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Yup, some of the 1st page images (probably all) are gone and those ones look like that to me as well.
The post in question is:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/msg36696/#msg36696 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/msg36696/#msg36696)
Maybe some database corruption that affected some images?
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The ones hosted here and corrupted have a very peculiar byte distribution - e.g. here's the "unknown.jpg" linked above:
0 2541
1 1287
2 1096
3 1110
4 1093
5 1049
6 1094
7 972
8 942
9 985
10 996
11 1109
12 1078
13 0 <---
14 979
15 822
16 1005
17 991
18 1213
19 819
...
253 921
254 995
255 968
All the byte values show up roughly uniformly, which is normal for compressed file formats, except 13 - not a single occurrence of that in the whole file.
I saw this same corruption last year, and noted it here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/msg771277/#msg771277 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/msg771277/#msg771277)
Was an FTP backup/restore done sometime around that date? If it was, and the FTP clients' ASCII/binary setting was incorrect, it could lead to this situation. Never use ASCII mode, always binary, to avoid this issue. More info on that here:
https://blog.phpbb.com/2011/08/23/the-dangers-of-ascii-mode/ (https://blog.phpbb.com/2011/08/23/the-dangers-of-ascii-mode/)
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Are all the corrupted images all hosted on imgur.com? The one I looked at was.
Looks like corrupted data in a cache somewhere. Imgur sets its cache-control max-age to about 36 days in the http responses. If you wait a month or so, the pictures might come good.
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The corrupted images I can see are hosted on this site. Not VinzC's post hosted on imgur: that's a perfectly functional image. (It just happens to be a screenshot of a corrupted image display, but ceci n'est pas une pipe.)
As noted by amyk the issue was discovered late last year: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/25/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/25/)
On the second page of the above thread, it appears that different users are seeing different versions of the corrupted files.
In #27 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/msg771505/#msg771505), BravoV shows his hexdump of a file called "a.jpg" posted by Mechatrommer in March 14, 2011 (server time). It contains the date string "2011:03:03 15:49:58".
In #28 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/msg771512/#msg771512), PA0PBZ shows his own hexdump of what is believed to be the same file. It contains a different date string "2011:03:02 16:21:12"!
When I download the file from https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/salvaging-old-electronics-parts-and-save-the-world/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/salvaging-old-electronics-parts-and-save-the-world/)
(a.jpg), my copy contains the date string "2011:03:14 16:48:42". This means that different users are seeing different bytes when they request the same file from the server.
I would suggest raising the issue with CloudFlare.
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Are all the corrupted images all hosted on imgur.com? The one I looked at was.
Looks like corrupted data in a cache somewhere. Imgur sets its cache-control max-age to about 36 days in the http responses. If you wait a month or so, the pictures might come good.
'M hoping I'll remember to come and check in a month or so :-DD .
EDIT: Looks like this issue has been seriously taken on so thanks for your efforts investigating. I'm a bit late though, not always the first one to notice ::).
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The corrupted images I can see are hosted on this site. Not VinzC's post hosted on imgur: that's a perfectly functional image. (It just happens to be a screenshot of a corrupted image display, but ceci n'est pas une pipe.)
As noted by amyk the issue was discovered late last year: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/25/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/25/)
On the second page of the above thread, it appears that different users are seeing different versions of the corrupted files.
In #27 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/msg771505/#msg771505), BravoV shows his hexdump of a file called "a.jpg" posted by Mechatrommer in March 14, 2011 (server time). It contains the date string "2011:03:03 15:49:58".
In #28 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/forum's-posts-attachment-damaged/msg771512/#msg771512), PA0PBZ shows his own hexdump of what is believed to be the same file. It contains a different date string "2011:03:02 16:21:12"!
When I download the file from https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/salvaging-old-electronics-parts-and-save-the-world/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/salvaging-old-electronics-parts-and-save-the-world/)
(a.jpg), my copy contains the date string "2011:03:14 16:48:42". This means that different users are seeing different bytes when they request the same file from the server.
I would suggest raising the issue with CloudFlare.
I just downloaded it now, there are no bytes with value 13 in it so it is corrupted, and its date string says "2011:03:14 16:39:50". :wtf:
For future reference, the version I downloaded and inspected has this SHA-1 hash (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SHA-1#Data_integrity):
fdb20f2bf8d02d9faf92ac8524aa04b177dee31e a.jpg
I suspect there is some sort of text-filtering being applied to those files (but why not the later ones...?), which would explain the lack of byte 13 and strings being changed around.
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Any idea what this is?
Surface mount metal can with a hole in it. It is getting very hot and draining the battery of this phone. No error messages reported by the android OS.
-
It looks like a barometric sensor.
Don't recognize the numbers though.
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It looks like a barometric sensor.
Don't recognize the numbers though.
Could well be, could also be a microphone, the OP could clarify the model of the phone and perhaps tell us if it's working for making calls, I.E. incoming/outgoing audio.
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The microphone is visible in the top picture and it looks like what I would have expected for a condensor type mic.
I agree that it's likely a pressure sensor, hence the hole in the can.
A quick google on "pressure sensor" images turns up several that look similar.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cb/Digital_Barometer_Sensor.jpg)
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According to the label on the first picture, it looks like a Ulefone Be Touch 2 (http://ulefone.com/products/betouch2/spec.html).
Doesn't seem to have pressure sensors.
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Microphone it is.
(http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1HqozLVXXXXXZXpXXq6xXFXXXs/201342240/HTB1HqozLVXXXXXZXpXXq6xXFXXXs.jpg)
Link to Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ulefone-be-touch-3-microphone-100-Original-USB-Plug-Charge-Board-Mainboard-Mic-For-ulefone-be/210907_32629749109.html)
Link to Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/262377006655)
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Thanks everyone, unfortunately I read the first reply and thought I could live without a sensor so I took it off the board... now I can't make calls :-DD
It seems that the mic was getting heat from a regulator on the other side of the board. Not sure what the next step is, I don't have schematics to go on but I might look for replacement boards on aliexpress etc.
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Hmm, I stand corrected.
Now that the mic has been removed, does the regulator still get that hot?
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Hmm, I stand corrected.
Now that the mic has been removed, does the regulator still get that hot?
Yes, it is still hot. The battery charges very slowly and drains very quickly. Apart from that, the phone is functional. I have ordered a new charger/mic board from aliexpress, but I suppose it could be anything on the main board. The phone is "under warranty" from gearbest, but I'd rather have a go at trying to fix it myself than risk sending it back to china...
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There must be a reason why that regulator gets so hot. I can't imagine it's its normal operating temp if it can get the casing of the mic to go above 70° C.
Perhaps continue this in the repair section?
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What's this part? :)
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What's this part? :)
It is a MOSFET car elevator :-DD
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8 pin smd. 3.0x3.1mm body
marked.
MF EL
m101
and a
soic-14, ST Semiconductor
91p944
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What's this part? :)
Automotive rated MOSFET?
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It obviously needs a MOSFET driver.....
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Hmm, can you hand solder succesfully 0.3mm µBGA chips? :D
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I need help identifying the LED. I got these from a local scrapper and he has lots of these (1000s) in a bin. He said it was Cree but I could not find any info from them. The guy did say it came from Blackberry phones as the camera flash LEDs. Reversing the polarity and it lights up red.
The die looks about the size of a 1W LED and appears similar to Cree dies.
The flex PCB also has these round things. Im not exactly sure but they look like condenser mics although it looks like an unusual place to put the mic beside the camera flash LED?
I mounted 24 of the LEDs on a PCB I have and it is quite bright. ;D
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Not microphone but the handsfree speaker.
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I'm not sure it is a speaker. I should have put a ruler beside it.
It is about 4mm in diameter and about 1.3mm thick.
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It's likely to be a speaker, looking at the heavy construction and liberal bonding to the PCB for additional heat dissipation.
(Cell phone speakers are run very hard to get the acoustic output required. The voice coils are tiny and they get hot.)
Also, there wouldn't be a microphone in the middle of the back, whereas it's a logical location for a speaker / ringer transducer.
Edit: I take that back, my phone has a microphone next to the camera lens on the back.
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Microphone on the back used when shooting videos with that camera. And also in some cases as a noise-cancelling microphone where they take the sound picked up by the back camera and subtract it from the microphone on the front.
That is much too beefy for a microphone. I would be much more inclined to call that a speaker.
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I tried testing one first with a resistor, PSU and scope to see if it was an electret mic. And it was a lousy one at that as far as sensitivity is concerned so I took one apart.
Internal parts appear to be indeed an electret mic.
That is a 5mm LED for scale.
How about the LED I posted earlier, can anyone ID it?
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Without seeing the OTHER side of the PC board, I'm not convinced you have a microphone there.
If it is an electret microphone capsule (with the impedance converting transistor circuit inside) then you must apply power to the microphone to make it work. It is not a passive device that generates voltage.
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Without seeing the OTHER side of the PC board, I'm not convinced you have a microphone there.
If it is an electret microphone capsule (with the impedance converting transistor circuit inside) then you must apply power to the microphone to make it work. It is not a passive device that generates voltage.
I did power it. I used a variable PSU and a biasing resistor. I have used electret mic capsules in the past so I have an idea on how they work and how they should behave.
If you're talking about the tiny round PCB with a transistor and two caps on it, the back side is this one.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=237553;image)
If you're talking about the flex PCB the device is mounted to, it is just a ground plane.
The part is not much of use for me, just a curiosity on what it really is. What I really want is to ID the LED :)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=237547;image)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=237549;image)
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I've only got the usual pointless ebay seller's potato picture of the chip
but what is a "MOSTEK MK3884N IRELAND" ?
searches lead me to http://www.cpu-world.com/Support/3/38.html (http://www.cpu-world.com/Support/3/38.html)
So I know it's one of Zilog's SIO's, but I can't work out the speed
MK3884 and MK3884-10 are 2.5 MHz parts.
MK3884-4 is a 4 MHz part.
so what is an MK3884N ?
thanks
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so what is an MK3884N ?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=239816;image)
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so what is an MK3884N ?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=239816;image)
darn, I'd downloaded that same document the other day but didn't notice that line.
I was looking for my download of it this morning but it's lost in one of windows random download locations.
Thanks for finding it for me :)
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Hi,
I have a rather "stealth" chip here. I can't even identify the vendor. The chip should be part of a broadband power line system.
Can anyone identify the manufacturer ? Can anyone find a datasheet?
Thanks
Christopher
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer ? Can anyone find a datasheet?
Mstar
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...about as secretive a company as Broadcom, but some datasheets have leaked. If you can figure out how to register on some Chinese forums you might be able to get these...
http://bbs.ntpcb.com/read.php?tid-50930.html (http://bbs.ntpcb.com/read.php?tid-50930.html)
http://bbs.52dtv.com/thread-22037-1-1.html (http://bbs.52dtv.com/thread-22037-1-1.html)
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What sort of compressed air coupler is this? I can't find it with image search, some sort of PCL knockoff?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/a553692965eb13b0e2742331a7639130.jpg)
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My google-fu is not very strong today. DIP8 SMPS controller, it's not the AIC1550 (it's not a DC-DC converter).
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=243669;image)
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Microne ME8107A:
http://wenku.baidu.com/view/29b78b4459eef8c75ebfb328.html (http://wenku.baidu.com/view/29b78b4459eef8c75ebfb328.html)
http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2016-02/temp_16021815004014.pdf (http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2016-02/temp_16021815004014.pdf)
http://www.microne.com.cn/pro_detail.asp?categoryid=199&id=191 (http://www.microne.com.cn/pro_detail.asp?categoryid=199&id=191)
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Microne ME8107A:
http://wenku.baidu.com/view/29b78b4459eef8c75ebfb328.html (http://wenku.baidu.com/view/29b78b4459eef8c75ebfb328.html)
http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2016-02/temp_16021815004014.pdf (http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2016-02/temp_16021815004014.pdf)
http://www.microne.com.cn/pro_detail.asp?categoryid=199&id=191 (http://www.microne.com.cn/pro_detail.asp?categoryid=199&id=191)
It would be interesting if you can tell how did you find it.
Did you happen to know already that chip, did you recognize Microne logo, or what was the process?
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There are lists of semiconductor logos, but the ones I know don't include MicrOne.
http://www.canics.com/mfglogos.php (http://www.canics.com/mfglogos.php)
http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/?method=logo (http://www.elnec.com/support/ic-logos/?method=logo)
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It is the first hit on 8107a on the Chinese search engine baidu, it can also be found on aliexpress and taobao.
1550 is likely the datecode. For recent and obscure chips like this it is beneficial to know other branches of fu.
-
Anyone recognize this one?
It's from a 1988 vintage motor controller, so I'm guessing a triac of some sort.
I can't find anything resembling a datasheet, so finding a replacement is proving more difficult then expected.
-
Hi guys,
Does this kind of assembly have a specific name? It was used to position optics onto a measurement system.
The ruby tipped probes are called "CMM Stylus"? Or is there another name for them?
Thanks,
David
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Anyone recognize this one?
It's from a 1988 vintage motor controller, so I'm guessing a triac of some sort.
I can't find anything resembling a datasheet, so finding a replacement is proving more difficult then expected.
Part is TAG8816, which is a now obsolete Triac from either Siemens or AEG. Most likely a BT132 triac will be a replacement for it, though I will bet that it is driven with a SAA series triac controller, and that, or the capacitors associated with it, is dead.
-
Thanks!
It is indeed AEG and driven by a TDA1085C (http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/TDA1085C-D.PDF) controller.
I suspect, as you said, the controller and surrounding caps where the problem.
But as I don't have the rest of the machine, I'm replacing everything just to be safe.
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This unknown ceramic PGA chip comes from a remote control for industrial cranes. Couldn't even find the manufacturer "IST" ?
The remote control dates back to 1994. Had no time to trace the other peripherals on the board. So no idea if the crystal oscillators belongs to the ceramic chip.
I would guess that it is something like a GAL/PAL/PLD? Or even a microcontroller? :-//
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Thanks!
It is indeed AEG and driven by a TDA1085C (http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/TDA1085C-D.PDF) controller.
I suspect, as you said, the controller and surrounding caps where the problem.
But as I don't have the rest of the machine, I'm replacing everything just to be safe.
If the triac died that chip will be toast as well. I have met those before, so also change electrolytic capacitors connected to it, all of them. They are pretty good at speed control, but as the capacitors age the ESR goes high, the chip goes wonky and runs the motor to full speed or runs in bursts. If the motor arcs over then it fries the TRIAC, and this kills both. If the snubber is not there across the triac add it, using a 100R 1W resistor and a 100n 250VAC class X capacitor, if there replace the capacitor as well, using a class X device.
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This unknown ceramic PGA chip comes from a remote control for industrial cranes. Couldn't even find the manufacturer "IST" ?
The remote control dates back to 1994. Had no time to trace the other peripherals on the board. So no idea if the crystal oscillators belongs to the ceramic chip.
I would guess that it is something like a GAL/PAL/PLD? Or even a microcontroller? :-//
Custom gate array, so you are SOL unless you can buy one from the manufacturer. However I would look at the clock from that ( likely) CD4001 chip, to see if it is actually oscillating.
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This unknown ceramic PGA chip comes from a remote control for industrial cranes. Couldn't even find the manufacturer "IST" ?
The remote control dates back to 1994. Had no time to trace the other peripherals on the board. So no idea if the crystal oscillators belongs to the ceramic chip.
I would guess that it is something like a GAL/PAL/PLD? Or even a microcontroller? :-//
Custom gate array, so you are SOL unless you can buy one from the manufacturer. However I would look at the clock from that ( likely) CD4001 chip, to see if it is actually oscillating.
Thanks for your assessment. There is no need to repair anything. Pulled two of these remote controls out of the dumpster at work. This one from 1994 and another from 1976. Kept four heavy coordinate switches from them. And this chip purely out of curiosity what it would be.
I will decap the chip and try to get some good pictures of it.
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The letters 'TH-GAS1' is a strong hint that it is a mask gate array. Photomicrographs are not that interesting, although if you knew the floorplan of the array you may be able to reverse engineer the RTL from the visible metal layer. Many gate arrays were programmed with a single custom metal layer, but I think some used more than one.
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I don't know if this is missing any parts, I suspect it might be. But it appears to be some sort of high voltage switching tuby thingy. It is (or was) in a vacuum (or gas), although one of the terminals has internal cracks and I hope it hasn't vented. The contact is magnetic (part of some sort of relay or contactor maybe?).
EDIT: confirmed a vacuum relay of some sort. An image search turned up a pic of a recent Ebay listing for a device with a part similer to this one though. Mine is missing the rest of it including the coil and brackets (although if it hasn't vented I can replace those). But I can't find any other info.
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I'm trying to find out what this IC is exactly. It's part of a fan speed controller board.
It's an 8-pin SOIC package, and the only marking on it is 'HXN-JOa' (not sure if that 'O' is actually a zero or not). I have a suspicion it may be some kind of adjustable DC-DC buck converter that is being used to step-down 12V to a lower voltage. Possibly from a Chinese manufacturer, as the only references to the marking text I could find were on Chinese websites.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=250700;image)
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HXN-xxx markings seem to be from this company: http://www.hxsemi.com/ (http://www.hxsemi.com/)
Some more clues here: http://product.dzsc.com/product/new-1046211-20141114110510193739.html (http://product.dzsc.com/product/new-1046211-20141114110510193739.html)
Synchronous, 3A switch, 2.5-5V input, adjustable(5.5V?) output.
Further searching yields http://www.wiswood.com/ (http://www.wiswood.com/) also having some suspiciously similar HX-prefixed parts, but no definite hits...
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Thanks for that. It's odd that all of the mentions of the part marking I can find on various Chinese marketplace pages (including the one linked above) indicate that it takes only up to 5.5V input, but on this board it is definitely taking a 12V supply (and outputting an adjustable voltage between 5-11V).
Just going off the package and some of the pin-out, I had found a number of likely-looking generic buck regulator parts, but was puzzled by the fact that on this board the bootstrap and soft-start pins (1 and 8 respectively) are not connected to anything! I don't know much about switching regulators, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't work without at least the former. :) However, on that Wiswood website, their HX1021 in a SOP8 does indeed not utilise pins 1 & 8, so perhaps it is indeed from that manufacturer. But again, the datasheet for that part says it is a 2.5-5.5V input part... :-//
The board designers wouldn't actually be crazy enough to be over-loading a 5.5V-rated part with 12V, would they? But, then again, this board is dead... >:D
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I've got some transistors of unknown specification. They are from Edgetek, as far as I can google, a defunct company from Canada.
From left to right :
N46, EDG-N54, EDG-P53 and P45
The only thing I know is the Nxx are NPN and Pxx are PNP.
Does anyone have more information or perhaps datasheets?
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Hi, I've been looking for hours on Mouser, Newark and Digikey for a part number for this connector so I can buy its harness, crimpable terminals, etc. for them. I'm not sure if this connector is considered an automotive one, but the board is used in an automobile. Any help to find a part number or source for them would be greatly appreciated.
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@Blackbird.
I cant help you, but those look like space/rad hardened transistors. Assuming that those are ceramic packages, with metal ftontd.
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Hi, I've been looking for hours on Mouser, Newark and Digikey for a part number for this connector so I can buy its harness, crimpable terminals, etc. for them. I'm not sure if this connector is considered an automotive one, but the board is used in an automobile. Any help to find a part number or source for them would be greatly appreciated.
I've been down the road of trying to identify and locate unknown car electrical connectors. It's not an easy job. :--
A start would be to narrow-down who the potential manufacturers of the connector are. Which make of vehicle does this come from? If one assumes a US domestic manufacturer, it's most likely that the connector will also be made by a US company. If it were, for example, a Japanese car, I would look at the Japanese connector manufacturers. Are there any markings embossed in the plastic? Look closely, as they may be tiny, or may look inconsequential.
Another way to narrow-down candidates is to ascertain the specifications of the connector. Measure the width of the terminals. Measure the space/pitch between terminals. Also the spacing of the pins on the PCB. If it's for a USDM manufacturer, there's a chance it's a USCAR-standard-compliant connector, so more than one manufacturer may produce something matching.
Also, there is a good likelihood that the entire module was made a 3rd-party supplier, and in fact uses a proprietary connector only made by that 3rd-party company. I have seen this on some cars where all the connectors on the harness are made by one major manufacturer, but at the points where it connects to a dash/window/audio module made entirely by a supplier, they use the supplier's own connectors.
Finally, what year is the vehicle? If it's more than 10-15 years old, I wouldn't put much faith in that particular connector being made any more. Especially for wire-to-board connectors (as opposed to wire-to-wire), as those tend to be for more specific applications that live/die with the lifetime of the vehicle model.
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I've been down the road of finding automotive connectors. You might think that they'd be available through normal distributor channels, but that sadly is not often the case. Japan makes a lot of the connectors that go into cars (even Volvos!) and they have limited distribution in the West. I'd echo the advice to look carefully for any markings, even seemingly insignificant ones that look like arrows.
The major Japanese connectors companies are Sumitomo, Yazaki, Fujikura, and Furukawa. Yes, I'd never heard of them either.
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From an LED driver... I have a hard time finding info on it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
The code reads "IAFSF".
Thanx...
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Well, it's never gonna work with those solder bridges anyway. ;-)
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Well, it's never gonna work with those solder bridges anyway. ;-)
What solder bridges? BTW, it works.
Someone helped me along already, it seems to be a MP4026.
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its an obd / obd2 connector.
:wtf: No, it most definitely isn't.
How on earth was that conclusion arrived at from looking the pictures carloscuev posted? There's only the vaguest resemblance. Perhaps a visit to the local optician is in order. :-DD
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Well, it's never gonna work with those solder bridges anyway. ;-)
What solder bridges? BTW, it works.
I was only joking. From the photos it looks like a really bad soldering job with all the pins on each side shorted together. Clearly that's not the case though.
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It may look a bit less nice because it's a wave soldered pcb. The SMD parts are glued down first, when the through hole components have been stuffed next, everything is soldered in one go on the wave solder process. That makes SMD joints look a bit messy.
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its an obd / obd2 connector.
:wtf: No, it most definitely isn't.
How on earth was that conclusion arrived at from looking the pictures carloscuev posted? There's only the vaguest resemblance. Perhaps a visit to the local optician is in order. :-DD
yes you are right i was looking at a diff forum and posted wrong.
and my glasses will be in today.
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Hi, I've been looking for hours on Mouser, Newark and Digikey for a part number for this connector so I can buy its harness, crimpable terminals, etc. for them. I'm not sure if this connector is considered an automotive one, but the board is used in an automobile. Any help to find a part number or source for them would be greatly appreciated.
Wrecker's yard is your most likely source.
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I've been down the road of finding automotive connectors. You might think that they'd be available through normal distributor channels, but that sadly is not often the case. Japan makes a lot of the connectors that go into cars (even Volvos!) and they have limited distribution in the West. I'd echo the advice to look carefully for any markings, even seemingly insignificant ones that look like arrows.
The major Japanese connectors companies are Sumitomo, Yazaki, Fujikura, and Furukawa. Yes, I'd never heard of them either.
Thanks HwAoRrDk and Helius ! I've searched in the catalogs of Sumitomo, Yazaki, Fujikura, and Furukawa but couldn't find it in there, Furukawa makes one very similar but not exactly that one, any other japanese brand to look into? The module is from a nissan car so it must be a japanese connector.
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I've searched in the catalogs of Sumitomo, Yazaki, Fujikura, and Furukawa but couldn't find it in there, Furukawa makes one very similar but not exactly that one, any other japanese brand to look into? The module is from a nissan car so it must be a japanese connector.
Well, JAE and JST, but I assumed you already knew those. Maybe Hirose or Omron have some automotive parts but they specialize in other areas.
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Hi there,
I picked up an old electronic organ for free yesterday, sort of in half working condition. I'm still didn't decide what to do with it, fix it or tear it apart for the components.
I opened it to try to work out what it's made out of. And when I started reading the IC's numbers, there was barely anything talking to me, except for the 6~18 pin ic, mostly 4000 series and lm324's (they are marked CA323E)
I eventually worked out that the logo on the chips was the old national semiconductor's logo but it's still not helping me much.
I'll attach a couple of photos of some of the chips but there are too many to identify to put them all on here.
I'm wondering, is there some sort of reference table for the company's chip numbers?
There is also in the photos another chip for which I haven't worked out the manufacturer yet, marked ER2051 8049 HDA, I'm assuming it is a processor but not sure.
Any helps and tips would be very helpful.
Thanks
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The third chip is a General Instrument ER2051, a "512 bit electrically alterable ROM". Datasheet attached.
The National chips have been custom labeled.
Anyway, most organs have a similar architecture based on high-frequency oscillators that are divided by a set of 12 registers (the top-octave generator), and then repeatedly divided by 2 to produce the frequency of each lower octave. The waves are then shaped using analog filters and envelopes. Each note is then fed into the keyswitch matrix, which can have multiple poles that mix frequencies together (in organ terms this is called foldback).
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Thanks HwAoRrDk and Helius ! I've searched in the catalogs of Sumitomo, Yazaki, Fujikura, and Furukawa but couldn't find it in there, Furukawa makes one very similar but not exactly that one, any other japanese brand to look into? The module is from a nissan car so it must be a japanese connector.
What year Nissan is it from? One other tip is to try and find old copies of a connector manufacturer's catalogue, as their current ones may no longer list products that were contemporary with the vehicle. For example, I was once looking for details on a Sumitomo connector that wasn't in their latest catalogue, but appeared in one dated 2009. But in such case, on the down side, this probably means the item is EOL, and not sold any more...
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The third chip is a General Instrument ER2051, a "512 bit electrically alterable ROM". Datasheet attached.
Thanks a lot.
If I read the datasheet right, basically, this is behaving like a static ram expect that it retains the data without need of power?
If I can get it off without damage, I have a perfect application for it.
I guess the of the national semiconductor parts are going to be near impossible to identify unless I could find a schematic of the organ or spend a very long time tracing the signals and extrapolate from the behavior.
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Hi all,
I'm looking for leads on a SOT23-5 device marked aH4TY1 for a repair. Non of the SMD codebooks I know have anything like this.
I've attached a partial schematic - from experimentation it seems that it should produce a fixed 3.3V at ~250mA from 4 AA cells. I'd guess it's a fixed output buck converter, but I can't find any with a suitable looking pinout.
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Hi all,
I'm looking for leads on a SOT23-5 device marked aH4TY1 for a repair. Non of the SMD codebooks I know have anything like this.
I've attached a partial schematic - from experimentation it seems that it should produce a fixed 3.3V at ~250mA from 4 AA cells. I'd guess it's a fixed output buck converter, but I can't find any with a suitable looking pinout.
BL3406 (http://www.belling.com.cn/2013p/BL3406B_Rev1.5.pdf), EUP3408 (http://www.bdtic.com/DataSheet/EUTECH/EUP3408.pdf), GS5578 (http://gs-power.com/db/pictures/modules/PDT/PDT060207001/DS_GS5578(F)_Rev%201.2.pdf), KB3426 (http://datasheet.eepw.com.cn/datasheet/down/id/688735), and RT8008 (http://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT8008/DS8008-07.pdf) have that pinout. Of those, the EUP3408 seems to match the marking, with the unusual lower-case first letter. Here is a photo of a slightly different voltage (http://l.b2b168.com/2009/06/12/16/20090612164907655157.jpg) version.
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I'm not too sure of that. It seems the datasheet has one less letter/digit in the code, and the code from
Bendba Matthew contains letters/digits (i.e. "T" and "4") not used in that component's code.
I guess these are Chinese clones of some better known brand. So if the pinning and voltages seem compatible, I guess you might get away with using one of them. Usually Chinese designs follow the application examples in datasheets pretty closely.
Edit: name corrected.
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BL3406 (http://www.belling.com.cn/2013p/BL3406B_Rev1.5.pdf), EUP3408 (http://www.bdtic.com/DataSheet/EUTECH/EUP3408.pdf), GS5578 (http://gs-power.com/db/pictures/modules/PDT/PDT060207001/DS_GS5578(F)_Rev%201.2.pdf), KB3426 (http://datasheet.eepw.com.cn/datasheet/down/id/688735), and RT8008 (http://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT8008/DS8008-07.pdf) have that pinout. Of those, the EUP3408 seems to match the marking, with the unusual lower-case first letter. Here is a photo of a slightly different voltage (http://l.b2b168.com/2009/06/12/16/20090612164907655157.jpg) version.
I'm not too sure of that. It seems the datasheet has one less letter/digit in the code, and the code from Bendba contains letters/digits (i.e. "T" and "4") not used in that component's code.
I guess these are Chinese clones of some better known brand. So if the pinning and voltages seem compatible, I guess you might get away with using one of them. Usually Chinese designs follow the application examples in datasheets pretty closely.
That's brilliant, thank you. I'm sure I'll be able to find something close enough to get it going again.
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What brand of caps are these?
(http://www.fudzilla.com/images/stories/2016/September/Gigabyte-AM4B350-2.jpg)
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What brand of caps are these?
APAQ
http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/solidcapacitor.html#apaq (http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/solidcapacitor.html#apaq)
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Thank you!
Are they good quality? Not as good as Japanese brands, obviously, but should be a lot better than Chinese ones?
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Thank you!
Are they good quality? Not as good as Japanese brands, obviously, but should be a lot better than Chinese ones?
Mistreated very badly a bunch of secondhand examples and they survived, so if you use them within spec, you should be fine.
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From an LED driver... I have a hard time finding info on it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
The code reads "IAFSF".
Thanx...
Check if that could be a LM3880-1AF
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From an LED driver... I have a hard time finding info on it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
The code reads "IAFSF".
Thanx...
Check if that could be a LM3880-1AF
Thanks for coming back to this.
Marco (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/modifying-led-lighting/msg1012795/#msg1012795) noticed the first symbol in the code actually wasn't an "I" or a "1" but just a vertical line (|). It turned out to be most likely a MP4026 (https://www.monolithicpower.com/DesktopModules/DocumentManage/API/Document/GetDocument?id=1306).
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What's this?
(http://i.imgur.com/Rg2lWId.jpg)
6 of it are soldered on a DYS XM20A (ESC, brushless motor controller, 20 A), 4 mm edge length. I guess it is a FET, but I can't find the datasheet for it.
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http://aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AON7418.pdf (http://aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AON7418.pdf)
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What's this?
(http://i.imgur.com/Rg2lWId.jpg)
6 of it are soldered on a DYS XM20A (ESC, brushless motor controller, 20 A), 4 mm edge length. I guess it is a FET, but I can't find the datasheet for it.
Alpha & Omega AON7418
http://aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AON7418.pdf (http://aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AON7418.pdf)
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Thanks!
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Ok, I have another one:
(http://i.imgur.com/dzfxhw6.jpg)
On the same DYS XM20A ESC. I guess some kind of FET driver. 3 of it are driving 6 FETs.
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Ok, I have another one:
(http://i.imgur.com/dzfxhw6.jpg)
On the same DYS XM20A ESC. I guess some kind of FET driver. 3 of it are driving 6 FETs.
Not MCP3201, not THS3201, not ADuM3201, maybe LPD3201 :)
http://file1.dzsc.com/product/14/06/12/1014430_145049441.pdf (http://file1.dzsc.com/product/14/06/12/1014430_145049441.pdf)
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Not MCP3201, not THS3201, not ADuM3201, maybe LPD3201 :)
http://file1.dzsc.com/product/14/06/12/1014430_145049441.pdf (http://file1.dzsc.com/product/14/06/12/1014430_145049441.pdf)
This doesn't looks right, it is not a voltage regulator and I guess one IC will have 2 buffers to drive 2 FETs.
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Not MCP3201, not THS3201, not ADuM3201, maybe LPD3201 :)
http://file1.dzsc.com/product/14/06/12/1014430_145049441.pdf (http://file1.dzsc.com/product/14/06/12/1014430_145049441.pdf)
This doesn't looks right, it is not a voltage regulator and I guess one IC will have 2 buffers to drive 2 FETs.
Try QM3201 or UM3201
http://www.1mos.com/upload/file/UBIQ/QM3201S.pdf (http://www.1mos.com/upload/file/UBIQ/QM3201S.pdf)
http://www.wggk.net/upload/product/file/UM3201.pdf (http://www.wggk.net/upload/product/file/UM3201.pdf)
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This looks better, but the pinout is wrong. Pins 2 and 3 is gate (or buffer input, directly connected to the microcontroller, all gates with a 10k pulldown to GND), all pin 4 are connected to GND, all pin 1 are connected to the output of a 78L12 (this means using it with 3S LiPos might be a bit of a stretch, and definitely not a good idea to use it with 2S). Bit difficult to trace the other side because it goes to the back of the PCB.
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This looks better, but the pinout is wrong. Pins 2 and 3 is gate (or buffer input, directly connected to the microcontroller, all gates with a 10k pulldown to GND), all pin 4 are connected to GND, all pin 1 are connected to the output of a 78L12 (this means using it with 3S LiPos might be a bit of a stretch, and definitely not a good idea to use it with 2S). Bit difficult to trace the other side because it goes to the back of the PCB.
OK, hope this time is right IMP3201 :)
http://www.ds-imp.com.cn/pdf/IMP3201.pdf (http://www.ds-imp.com.cn/pdf/IMP3201.pdf)
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OK, hope this time is right IMP3201 :)
http://www.ds-imp.com.cn/pdf/IMP3201.pdf (http://www.ds-imp.com.cn/pdf/IMP3201.pdf)
Yes, this looks right, I can even measure the 0.5 V voltage drop of the diode and I can see the capacitors, thanks! :)
Interesting chip. I don't understand C2. Is it kind of bootstrapping with the outputs of the FET for higher gate voltage, and with the diode initially using the 12 V supply? Looks tricky. And Google translate says for the Vcc pin 1 "Low side logic fixed power supply", but maximum rating says up to 25 V, so I guess this is ok.
Looks like there is even a shop in Shenzen where I can buy it:
http://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/IMP3201ESA_T (http://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/IMP3201ESA_T)
Too bad it is not listed in findchips.com or at Digikey.
Next up: an European company clones a Chinese ESC :-)
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I'm repairing an Agilent E3646A that had a bad diode for the -15V bias supply. The case mark is C1J and I'm not sure exactly what it is.
Here's a portion of the schematic:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=269118;image)
It's component CR140.
Given the application and a google search, I believe it's a zener diode; although I've never seen that symbol used for it before. Is this right?
Also, the schematic has it marked as 5.6, which I assume means 5.6 V. However, since the purpose is to get -15 V from a -17.4 V rail, shouldn't it be a 2.4 V?
I soldered in a 2.4 V through-hole zener and measured the current at about 68 mA under full load. Could I just get any 'ol zener of the proper voltage and current capacity and slap it in there?
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Given the application and a google search, I believe it's a zener diode; although I've never seen that symbol used for it before. Is this right?
Yes, it's a Zener. That symbol is used in the EU.
Also, the schematic has it marked as 5.6, which I assume means 5.6 V. However, since the purpose is to get -15 V from a -17.4 V rail, shouldn't it be a 2.4 V?
The diagram shows only a tiny part of the power supply circuit, so I can't say anything about that. Maybe someone else can provide an educated guess.
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Looking at the schematic the zener diodes are not to convert 17.4 to 15v. , That will be done by a LM7815 or LM7915 regulator (TO220, on a heatsink).
The zeners are there to ensure the voltage at power off across the regulator isn't excessive. Not sure why they use zeners, a normal diode would be sufficient.
If you are driving a load that goes between +15v andv -15 rails (like Opamps), it is possible that one regulator might shutdown during startup if it's output gets dragged past gnd the wrong way, the zeners might help getting the 15v rails up to ~ 12v so they start properly.
The C1J might just be a normal 1N4004 type diode , there are many simple diode numbers like S1J , G1J , where the "1" is 1Amp, and the "J" is 600v.
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HP/Agilent are fond of that symbol for zeners--I've seen it on quite a few of their schematics.
If you look at your circuit diagram ,you will notice that the part of the +15v circuit shown is exactly the same as that for -15v,except that it has the zener the other way round.( another thing they like to do)
CR140 & CR139 are the same part number,so if the positive 15v supply still works,all the voltages around the
1902-1698 (CR139) will be the same value,(but inverted in polarity) as the -15v one.
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Awesome, thanks for the information everyone. :-+
I looked through the rest of the schematics, and found regulators for 15V rails, but they're marked as +15V2 and -15V2, rather than +15V1 and -15V1, which is what is connected to the zeners. Here's that circuit:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=269359;image)
I buzzed it out to be sure, and it doesn't appear to be the same 15V rail connected to the zeners. I'd kinda like to know if salbayeng is right about the zeners protecting the regulators/helping them start, or if they're meant to provide a voltage rail (or both?). Here's the rest of the bias supply circuit:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=269361)
If this is the wrong thread to ask that, then I apologize, and you can disregard.
In any case, I guess it's somewhat beside the point. I'll see if the 2.4 V zeners I've got in there are within Agilent's specs, then whack in a 5.6 V and see if that's better or worse. At least now I know I need a 1 amp zener.
Thanks again!
EDIT: I borked it and shorted the diodes together, because I'm good at what I do. :-BROKE Also managed to lift a trace in the process. :palm: Going in for emergency surgery. Guess I won't be selling this one.
EDIT2: Voltage regulators on the main board check out OK. No display with two beeps means it can't communicate with the display board. Probably blew a regulator local to the display or PC board. Will test those and try to hot glue the lifted trace down to prevent any further damage.
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I'd suggest to move that to the "Repair" section. For a 2-channel lab PSU I'd expect isolated power sections for each channel, hence the !5V1 and 15V2 (also PCOM1 and PCOM2).
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I'm with @maderes , probably two independent supplies. (Or with power supplies sometimes the common of the floating power suppy rides with the positive terminal)
Pcom1 and pcom2 are dead giveaways.
Looking at the whole circuit now, my guess as to the role of the zener diodes is probably partly wrong.
CR139 is certainly a 5.6v zener, its probably biasing some transistors somewhere else, but with about 1mA , the voltage across it will be ~ 5v still nothing like 2.4v
Maybe the 15V1 supplies get power fed from somewhere else most of the time?
I'm guessing the +/-15V1 supplies are used by an opamp, and it doesn't care whether it gets 12v or 15v supply.
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On closer inspection , the 15V1 supplies drive two opamps on this schematic :palm: U124,U134
And note the clever use of U133 pretending to be a depletion mode MOSFET.
Given this supply works the fan, it probably also powers other non critical circuitry, so it should be eminently fixable.
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Several months ago I found a low temperature gauge at the local government surplus store, and bought it, thinking it might be useful for cryo experiments. I disassembled it and looked at the circuit: it seems to be a Wheatstone bridge for use with RTDs (several RTDs, with a rotary switch to choose which one to read). However, there are resistors in it with strange color codes that have yellow at both ends. I didn't know what to make of these and didn't find anything helpful online. Any ideas?
The first picture is a crude schematic I drew when I disassembled it. I omitted the transformer, bridge rectifier, and smoothing cap. There was only the one PCB in the thing, which was mounted to the back of the panel meter's movement.
(https://i.imgur.com/Gh33e56.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CpQUFqN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5fnIB9V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PB3YxdS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ne1SLzF.jpg)
BTW, it's been quite an ordeal trying to post this. I tried to post these as attachments but it failed to post and sent me to the new topic posting form instead… Next I tried to post them externally hosted and it told me my attachments were too big! Then I tried to post again (having reloaded the posting form from scratch and pasted my post back in rather than using Lazarus) and it told me my last post was less than 60 seconds ago, even though it wasn't (because it failed). Then I waited more than 60 seconds, and clicked post again, only to be told that this post had already been submitted. This time I've deleted cookies, logged back in, and waited half an hour before trying again. Hopefully it works.
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The yellow band is temperature coefficient: https://www.eeweb.com/toolbox/6-band-resistor-calculator (https://www.eeweb.com/toolbox/6-band-resistor-calculator)
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This is a voltage to current transmitter. Input is 0-10V from pot wiper on A5. Output is 4-20mA on C1.
What's the purpose of 19C1 and 19C2 caps?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/a62c7098f13faf76e26cf6d678f520dc.jpg)
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@pointyointment:
So from PaoPbz 's link that makes the resistors 470ohms , 5% tolerance with 25ppm tempco. (For comparison 1% metal film are typically 50ppm)
I think these are metal film , even though they look like carbon resistors.
Odd to have 25ppm with 5% tolerance , I'm guessing there must have been calibration somewhere else : VR2.
R7 seems unnecessary?
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What's the purpose of 19C1 and 19C2 caps?
Hi HiPi,
They are just for noise rejection.
Simple capacitors are quite effective noise filters on current mode signals.
The adjustment pot is probably in a noisy location.
Normally you would use a single capacitor to gnd 19C2.
The other one, 19c1, will couple power supply noise into the 4-20mA signal, it's not the way I would do it.
The capacitor should be as close as possible to the PLC inputs,
the way the schematic is drawn the gnd side of 19C2 , it seems to have multiple links on X31 , this is not particularly good practice as it gives scope for the installer to use a long loopy gnd return and hence pickup noise on that.
**edit changed to 19C2 in last sentence**
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Thanks salbayeng.
That's what I thought also but wasn't sure about that 19C1.
:phew: :-+
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In the rare case where you had an analog or digital signal swinging from 0 to 24v AND you had a distant load across 0 to 24v that switched on and off, then you might argue the split capacitor scheme would be useful. But for av current mode signal, the best place for a capacitor is across the terminals at the receiver.
Looking at the schematic, and assuming a 250 \$\Omega\$ resistor inside the PLC, and the capacitors totalling 1\$\micro\$F, this forms a low pass filter at ~600Hz. but, as drawn, it also forms a high-pass filter to couple power supply noise in above ~600Hz.
So above 600Hz, noise from your signal will be removed, but replaced with power supply noise.
If I were putting in split capacitors i would put them across the 3 pot wires (at the input to the 4-20 converter) , maybe that's what the designer said, and draftsmen mis-heard him??
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A few years ago , i found a "thing" that it was stored a box on my garage . I think that the " thing" is a kind the inductance sensor but it only has one wire, when i tested with the multimeter , it hasn't continuity neither resistance.
Do somebody know what it's ?
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzVlJNeWPQJzUDR6LVNQRkdMcVU?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzVlJNeWPQJzUDR6LVNQRkdMcVU?usp=sharing)
Thanks for you help.
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It's a capacitor for magneto ignitions.
Outboards, lawnmowers.. That sort of thing.
The casing is the second wire.
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It's a capacitor for magneto ignitions.
Outboards, lawnmowers.. That sort of thing.
The casing is the second wire.
Thanks
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That's a condenser for an old automotive breaker point ignition.
https://goo.gl/images/xRMbwy (https://goo.gl/images/xRMbwy)
-Pat
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That's a condenser for an old automotive breaker point ignition.
https://goo.gl/images/xRMbwy (https://goo.gl/images/xRMbwy)
-Pat
I am sure that the capacitor is the SEAT PANDA 40
https://www.elmuseodelrecambio.es/prod-4295-seat-condensador-seat-panda-todos-modelos-delco-femsa.php (https://www.elmuseodelrecambio.es/prod-4295-seat-condensador-seat-panda-todos-modelos-delco-femsa.php)
Thanks
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An acquaintance discovered this mystery box under the dashboard of his Porsche 911, but has no idea what it's for.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=276886;image)
Any thoughts?
I'm thinking it's quite old, as the blue cap is labelled in 'MFD', which I believe hasn't been common practice for a long time now.
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Looks like a filter for speakers, one input and outputs for high (tweeters) and low.
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Looks like a filter for speakers, one input and outputs for high (tweeters) and low.
Yes, I think it is a 2 way frequency divider.
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As others have said, it looks like an audio crossover network. The electrolytic cap appears to be a non-polarized one; note that it has crimps at both ends.
-Pat
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Ah, that makes sense, what with the 'hi' and 'low' terminals. Thanks everyone.
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In+ In- are the input from the amplifier. Low+ Low- are for the low frequencies ( the larger speaker) and Hi+ and Hi- are for the tweeter.
There should be another for the other side of the car.
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i'm looking for help to identify this please, it appears to be a tos232 or very similar package but i've been unable to reference the value. All help appreciated.
it's marked BR (which is underscored) and has a small N in the bottom corner
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Hi Do you what size package it is?
SOT-23 is about an 0805 resistor
SOT-323 is a bit smaller
SOT-523 is smaller again
Is the part likely to be of European // Asian, // or American origin ( for transistors this means the first characters will likely be "B" // "2S" // "2N")
Is the part loose, or installed in something?
With a DMM on diode test , does it look like a PNP or NPN?
there's a few hits here:
http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/br (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/br)
page 35 https://www.sos.sk/pdf/SMD_Catalog.pdf (https://www.sos.sk/pdf/SMD_Catalog.pdf)
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As best as i can measure it is: 2.9x1.7x1.1mm
it comes from a NEC pc engine cdrom component number tr305 - can't find a service manual though.
it's a very early cd rom drive, which shares a lot in common with early sony drives.
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OK The package size is either SOT-23 or SC-59 , both are nearly identical in size , see page 5 of the datasheet I've attached (for a completely differnt transistor, it just happened to have a good drawing in it ).
The 2SC2412 is probably your transistor
(a) it is SC-59 size
(b) It's from a Japanese OEM manufacturer, hence will most likely be a 2SA or 2SC part.
(c) this part seems to be usually marked with "BQ" ,"BR", or "BS" , "BR" is the medium gain variety (hFE = 180-390)
(d) it's quite a common general purpose transistor.
Here is the datasheet :
http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/2/s/2sc1740s%2C_2sc2412k%2C_2sc4081%2C_2sc4617%2C_2sc5658_rohm.pdf (http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/2/s/2sc1740s%2C_2sc2412k%2C_2sc4081%2C_2sc4617%2C_2sc5658_rohm.pdf)
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thank you for all your help, i'll get one a give it a go.
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As you are in the UK, you may find it easier to use a "pro-european" series transistor.
You can get these from RS , Farnell and probably a whole bunch of retail outlets.
The BC850C is probably closest to the 2SC2412
It is part of the BC846 series , the table on the first page shows the variations:
http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0b21/0900766b80b219a8.pdf (http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0b21/0900766b80b219a8.pdf)
The trailing letter "C" is the gain group this is hFE ~ 300 which is the same as gain group "R" of the 2SC2412
The BC849 and BC850 are the low noise variants , you would use these if the transistor is in an audio section.
Given your CD drive most likely runs off 12v, you could probably use the BC849 (30v variant) .
What does the transistor do in your device?
If it works a solenoid or something digital, and has failed due overload, you might be better off with a "higher current" transistor (MMBT2222, BC817-25 etc) http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/308/BC817-16LT1-D-104560.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/308/BC817-16LT1-D-104560.pdf)
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i was able to order the 2SC2412 from Rs so will give them a go, my electronics knowledge is basic i don't really know what it does but traces back to the dc in jack. I don't think it failed but was ripped off the board when clumps of glue were being removed. I'll give the first part a go, if that doesn't work i'll try the other - either way the board was only a parts board to begin with so no problem if i can't get it working.
Either way thanks for all your help.
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[Found, see below]
This could be a double gate mosfet for rf Its a rf transistor (as it handles signals in the 300-400 Mhz), but probably bipolar with 2 emitter pins tied together with a characteristic printed "A" and a rounded protusion as a pin marking
Any ideas?
Actually the package thats soldered looks like the second image
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Found it, its a Mini-Circuits MAV-11SM, MMIC amplifier in SOT86 package :)
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Yep Mini-circuits makes a large variety
http://www.minicircuits.com/products/amplifiers_smt_gpw.shtml (http://www.minicircuits.com/products/amplifiers_smt_gpw.shtml)
It's usually a MAR-06 on the input and a MAV-11 on the output.
They are also made by other vendors, who keep the same trailing digits, and just change the prefix.
I have the mini-circuits 1992 printed handbook here, back then they just had MAR-1 through to MAR-8 and MAV-2, -3, -4, -11
(The MAV-x had larger transistors inside, and could dissipate more power)
The RAM-x is a ceRAMic package version of the plastic MAR-x.
Now the range has expanded.
The original MAR-x had leads that went straight out, so you needed to drill a small hole in the PCB to mount it, the SM suffix (MAR-xSM) just has kinked leads (gull wing) so it can be mounted with normal SMD assembly methods.
The VAM-x is a MAV-x in a SOT-143 package (a bit like a SOT-23 with 4 legs) (dual gate MOS are usually packaged this way, and the BCV61 current mirror)
-
Any ideas on these two IC samples from 1981?
logo looks a bit like linear technology?
there is an exact match on the DG528 of a analog multiplexer
Just want a 2nd opinion...
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What makes you think it's not a DG528? The logo reminds me of Siliconix. http://www.logosdatabase.com/logo/si_78623276 (http://www.logosdatabase.com/logo/si_78623276)
Edit: Aside from a Temic datasheet, look what a a search for "siliconix DG528" dragged up:
http://www.desmoines-classifieds.com/Madison-County-/Automotive-/Engine-Parts-/Linear-DG528-siliconix-vintage-ic-sample-gold-package.SHTML (http://www.desmoines-classifieds.com/Madison-County-/Automotive-/Engine-Parts-/Linear-DG528-siliconix-vintage-ic-sample-gold-package.SHTML)
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What makes you think it's not a DG528? The logo reminds me of Siliconix. http://www.logosdatabase.com/logo/si_78623276 (http://www.logosdatabase.com/logo/si_78623276)
Edit: Aside from a Temic datasheet, look what a a search for "siliconix DG528" dragged up:
http://www.desmoines-classifieds.com/Madison-County-/Automotive-/Engine-Parts-/Linear-DG528-siliconix-vintage-ic-sample-gold-package.SHTML (http://www.desmoines-classifieds.com/Madison-County-/Automotive-/Engine-Parts-/Linear-DG528-siliconix-vintage-ic-sample-gold-package.SHTML)
And here is a datasheet saying Vishay Siliconix: http://www.vishay.com/docs/70068/dg528.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/70068/dg528.pdf)
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thanks guys!
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Please help me identify the following LED driver IC from a head-mounted lamp:
1. Package: SOT23-6
2. Top marking: KAD4e
3. Pinout: 1. NC; 2. GND; 3. NC; 4. LED - (through 1.3 \$\Omega\$ resistor); 5. SWITCH; 6. VCC (3x AAA cell)
4. Function (per button press): Bright, Dim, Flash, Off
I actually want to know the value of the input capacitor. The ceramic 0805 SMD cap has a 1k \$\Omega\$ short, which drains the batteries if I leave them in. Some driver chips that I found online take 10uF, others 0.1uF.
Thanks!
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Are there any inductors or diodes attached to the switch terminal?
-
4V5 supply so not a switcher, so input capacitor can be pretty much any value from 100n to 100uF. Best is to use a 10uf ceramic in place of the existing one, or just use a 100uf 16V 85c electrolytic capacitor if there is space there to fit it in the housing. lot lower leakage, and will help with battery voltage droop on the dim setting where it is driving the led with a pulsed waveform to drop the brightness without influencing CRI.
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Shouding(!?) SD3304 (http://shouding.w105.mydns114.net/down/html/?16.html).
Datasheet here (http://shouding.w105.mydns114.net/down/upload/20150322/1427016783.rar)
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This is an RF mixer, but cant find anything on it. The reference 0955-0525 seems an HP part, but no luck with that list.
Can anyone recognize the logo?
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The pinout looks the same as the standard Mini-Circuits ones like the SBL-1 and such.
-
That was a hard one, it was manufactured by a company named Adams-Russell.Still haven't found the part but I'm close...
Found this online:
"Adams-Russell was folded into M/A-COM a long time ago. M/A-COM was bought by AMP, which was bought by Tyco. Tyco then sold the M/A-COM division to Cobham, PLC"
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The Keysight site(!) says 'U-WAVE MIXER 460MHz MAX 0.3WATT PC PINS'
Where is it from? Sometimes the CLIP manual contains an X-ref.
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From a 3588A, the thing is I got the CLIP pdfs half an hour ago, and theres no manuf X reference, but based on schematics it should be equal to a SBL1 as you mentioned
-
The
MAX 0.3WATT
seems a bit high for a mixer, the mini-circuit mixers are typically +7dBm (5mW) or 17dbM (50mW) on the LO , and RF usually lower. Perhaps the max 0.3watt (+25dBm) is a thermal limit??
Does your 3588A have a fried mixer on the input?
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OK found a manual http://www.dennlec.com/images/manuals/hp-3588a-service-manual.pdf (http://www.dennlec.com/images/manuals/hp-3588a-service-manual.pdf)
on page 4.11 it says the LO level is 17dBm for the input mixer , so your part won't be a SBLxxx (only 7dBm)
OK given the input range of the HP3588 it is unlikely U803 is the input mixer,
(Or maybe the mixer is being used backwards (RF goes into the IF port) in this case you would need to be careful of the pinout, you need a part with the IF on an end pin (not a middle pin) the SRA-2 and SRA-173H-1 has this arrangement I think)
However the second mixer also operates at 17dBm, and 300MHz
So a minicircuit similar part might be SRA-1H 17dBm
(or SRA-1WH, SRA-2H, SIMA-5H, SRA-173H)
if it really is 0.3W , then maybe a VAY-1 (27dBm )
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It belongs to the A12 first conversion unit. The module has a weird 12dB loss in a certain range of frequencies, and this range is temperature dependent!, as the module warms up things change (I actually did identify the faulty module by putting one by one in the fridge and testing the results ;D). Since I didn't have the schematics I did replace all active components of the board (around 10) but no luck. I was directing attention to passive components now.
But just yesterday I got the schematics from artekmanuals (had I known earlier) so I should figure out the problem quick now :-/O. Attached is mixer in the schematic
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Shouding(!?) SD3304 (http://shouding.w105.mydns114.net/down/html/?16.html).
Datasheet here (http://shouding.w105.mydns114.net/down/upload/20150322/1427016783.rar)
That's the part, alright. I note that the datasheet schematics don't show a cap. It's just a cheapie headlamp, I'll see how it behaves without one.
Thanks!
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Does anybody have any idea what this little board is from/for? I got it as part of an electronics grab bag. I'm dating it at around mid 80s technology?
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@ sceptre ,
OK I have looked at the datasheet , of the two figures on the first page, the top 1 is for 3 watts (3 bars as the first mandarin character), the lower is 1 watt.
The IC is just a simple chopper, it varies the PWM to get an average current of 1A across 3v for the 3W led (maybe 50% duty?), and ~ 300mA for the 3W led.
Given you have 1.5ohms already, this is much larger than any internal battery resistance, so the capacitor will have only a negligible effect, the symptoms that might indicate a capacitor is needed would be erratic brightness variations, or erratic timing on the flashing mode.
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@CDEV :
Well you have something manufactured after 1994.
Has 74HC20= 2 x Quad NAND
64HC32 = 2 x quad OR
a pair of CD4051 8:1 multiplexer
A ?? pair of transistors for inverting of signals??
a ?? pair of opamps ?? (The motorola logo is upside down??) the "610" doesn't seem part of any motorola opamp in my 1976 databook, doesn't ring any bells either.
You have at least 6 laser trimmed resistors (possibly more under the chips).
Side 2 appears to have 4 NPO capacitors (lighter yellow colors) these would be typically 10nF or less and be 1% to 5% tolerance.
And its on a ceramic base, so probably from some mid to high end unit.
Given the presence of the mutiplexors, the circuit is most likely an input attenuator for a scope or multimeter ( I have seen similar PCB's in benchtop DMM's before).
Or it could possibly be a switchable frequency filter
or less likely some kind of switchable delay generator or frequency source.
You could probably figure out which pin goes where by simply buzzing with a DMM , most likely 4 or 5 of the pins are inputs to the '20 and '32.
The 74HC parts are 5v , while the 4051 may have dual analog supplies.
Happy hunting!
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I bought a replacement probe set (http://muellerelectric.com/product/premium-test-probe-kit/) for my DMM.
It comes with all sorts of doo-dads which slide onto the probe tips, one of which is this blade shaped thing which I don't recognise. It didn't come with any kind of documentation or even description of parts. You can see two metal plates sandwiched together, so my guess is some kind of thermocouple. But how would I use it? Just measure the voltage? What range and what is the temp correlation? Any thoughts?
EDIT: something just occurred to me. I wonder if you're meant to slide it down between a battery and another battery or device terminal. I'll have to try that tomorrow...
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I bought a replacement probe set (http://muellerelectric.com/product/premium-test-probe-kit/) for my DMM.
It comes with all sorts of doo-dads which slide onto the probe tips, one of which is this blade shaped thing which I don't recognise. It didn't come with any kind of documentation or even description of parts. You can see two metal plates sandwiched together, so my guess is some kind of thermocouple. But how would I use it? Just measure the voltage? What range and what is the temp correlation? Any thoughts?
EDIT: something just occurred to me. I wonder if you're meant to slide it down between a battery and another battery or device terminal. I'll have to try that tomorrow...
It certainly looks like a current measurement adapter for measuring dry cells relatively easily. Metal plates should be insulated from each other. With such scheme current measurement is very easy from wiring point of view.
Similar DIY adapters were discussed on this forum https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dry-cell-battery-monitor-adaptor-ultra-thin-pcb/msg541684/#msg541684 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dry-cell-battery-monitor-adaptor-ultra-thin-pcb/msg541684/#msg541684)
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I'd vote for the "slip between the battery and terminal" option, I've made a couple myself from brass shim and double sided tape, very useful, you can also use them to isolate the battery to inject external power.
Your's look to be made in the Middle Kingdom, someone's gone to the effort of squashing the strips twice to get a nice wedge effect.
Any other useful goodies in your probe kit?
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It's for Batteriser testing. :-DD
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Indeed, there's no continuity between the two faces so it must be for batteries.
It's a nice kit. I got a pouch full of different clips, grabbers, needle points and such. The leads are very nice silicone rubber and the probe tips are very sharp. I can take a photo if you like. I'm quite happy with the quality and reasonable price. I'm not sure what Middle Kingdom refers to, but Mueller is based in Ohio.
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What a simple and clever little probe!
I didn't realize how much I need one until I saw it :)
Luckily I have some thin PCB's laying around with plated borders. Making a bunch of them won't take more then a couple of minutes. :-+
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It could possibly be an "electro-chemical fuse" (that's not quite the right name for it, but I can't remember the right name).
The device is connected in series with the battery via the two thick wires on the right.
It is intended as a last chance protection against over voltage or undervoltage to prevent the Li-ion cell exploding.
In the event of a serious fault that the BMS IC can't handle by shutting down the series mosfets (i.e. because they have shorted), the BMS applies power to the lead on the left, this heats up the little black bit, which sets off a chemical reaction that corrodes through a thin metal film (underneath the blue area) and isolates the battery permanently.
Note the series MOSFETs are under the chemi-fuse in your photo, so if they overheat, they will also fire off the fuse.
I've got a professional-grade cam-corder battery here, given to me when the chemi-fuse went off accidently? I now have 12 perfectly good 18650 cells that I removed from the pack!!.
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That would be one of these: http://battery.newlist.ru/images2/Fuse.pdf (http://battery.newlist.ru/images2/Fuse.pdf)
And judging from your picture, it looks like it has already blown open (there shouldn't be gaps between the metal parts).
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This is a board from an elevator and controls the opening and closing of the sliding doors.
According to a technician who tested it, this 7 lead TO220 is faulty and has to be replaced, but the inscriptions are dremmeled off.
Any idea what this component might be?
-
Looks like a H-bridge driver. TLE5206-2 seems to have a matching pinout.
-
I'd vote with BK temp.
There aren't a lot of power devices in TO220-7
http://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Power-Management-ICs/_/N-wnwh?No=50&FS=True&P=1z0y1ic (http://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Power-Management-ICs/_/N-wnwh?No=50&FS=True&P=1z0y1ic)
The TLE5206-2 is the only one that is a full bridge and a motor driver, and the pin-out matches.
Note that if you have a bad connection to the motor, (e.g. it breaks contact due to vibration etc. ) the arcing across the bad connection will damage the H-bridge driver, the internal clamping diodes are not schottky, so the diodes will let through ~ 100ns of several hundred volts at every arc event.
The presence of some sloppy rework around the connector pins indicates a possible prior dry joint on the connectors. It is more than likely that the wires on the connectors are probably too stiff, too heavy, and not properly supported. This will cause the solder on the connector pins to fatigue. When you repair and re-install the board, you should replace overly rigid wire with more flexible wire, and cable tie the wires to the spacers that support this PCB.
???? ????
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Hello,
Any ideas on this IC?
(https://image.ibb.co/m6Pvyv/K9GK.jpg)
Marking: "K9GK", "818"
Thank you
-
Hello,
Any ideas on this IC?
Marking: "K9GK", "818"
Thank you
MSOP10 (?) packaged might be a buck-converter.
-
Looks like a switching regulator, package probably a TDFN-10 or DFN-10 or VSON-10 , these are 3.0 x 3.0mm
looks like pin 1 is the input (output) and pin 10 is the output(input) , ground will be a big exposed pad underneath.
Can you determine what parts are hanging off which pins, there should be an inductor, and possibly a diode somewhere.
There might be a pair of resistors hanging off a pin too.
This should give some candidate parts: http://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Integrated-Circuits-ICs/Power-Management-ICs/Switching-Controllers/_/N-6j76j?P=1z0y2cyZ1yuy3t8Z1yzxi1hZ1z0jilt&Ns=ManufacturerPartNumber%7c0 (http://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Integrated-Circuits-ICs/Power-Management-ICs/Switching-Controllers/_/N-6j76j?P=1z0y2cyZ1yuy3t8Z1yzxi1hZ1z0jilt&Ns=ManufacturerPartNumber%7c0)
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It looks like pin 1 is connected to a mini/micro USB connector, so 5V is either input or output voltage. I don't see any inductor, so maybe a linear regulator, charge controller, load switch.
That marking style looks somehow familiar to me, but I don't recognize the manufacturer of hand. Could it be Monolithic Power System?
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Hello All!
I have got a video kard ASUS 7790 2 GB OC some days ago my win7 freeze... it has got a blue screen... :( I take it and i saw one chip which gone.... (PC628) anybody know what's this?! And it is going to fix it?! Thanx the reply!!!
<a href="http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=735vidkari.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/hdd1/20170222/735vidkari.jpg" alt="Korlátlan képfeltöltés ingyen - www.kepfeltoltes.eu (http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu)">[/url]
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Hello All!
I have got a video kard ASUS 7790 2 GB OC some days ago my win7 freeze... it has got a blue screen... :( I take it and i saw one chip which gone.... (PC628) anybody know what's this?! And it is going to fix it?! Thanx the reply!!!
It's just a capacitor like the ones next to it, probably somewhere between 0.5 - 2 uF.
I don't think replacing it will fix the card, it looks like a decoupling cap and the card should work without.
-
Yes it's working but unfortunatelly my pc get a blue screen death. I went to the service and they told me my video card bad and one small part broke it.... What can i do to fix this problem?! And where can i buy this capacitor?! Thx the reply!
-
Hello,
Any ideas on this IC?
(https://image.ibb.co/m6Pvyv/K9GK.jpg)
Marking: "K9GK", "818"
Thank you
It is in a electronic cigarette mod.
It is used for charging a Lion battery at 890mA.
USB input (5V), 4.19V output.
The problem is that it gets extremely hot.
I can't see all the connections because there are 2 pcbs.
I must find a way to limit the charging current.
Pin-1 is the input (microUSB)
Pin-10 is the output (4.19V).
Pin-2 is connecting to microcontroller.
Between pin8 and ground there is a 20K resistor.
Between pin9 and ground there is a 1.9K resistor.
Between pin4 and 5 there is a resistor.
As I can see there is no voltage divider.
There is neither inductor nor diode.
-
It could be one of those:
https://www.monolithicpower.com/Products/Parametric-Search?categoryID=76/#filters= (https://www.monolithicpower.com/Products/Parametric-Search?categoryID=76/#filters=)
The package matches and also the pinout looks identical.
Unfortunally most datasheets don't have marking code information, but the ones with marking information show a 4 digit code.
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Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I'm not sure for the part, but all the connections and components it's like MP26023.
I replace the programing current resistor, and it works just like datasheet says.
From 890mA, reduced to 520mA.
But it is still very hot.
Only 2-3oC lower! :-//
-
i am trying to identify the make and / or model of these LCD Pushswitches, we initially thought they were NKK SmartSwitch but i am not so sure, the footprint and construction don't match anything in their catalog. The only marking is a printed '47A' and a small logo (see pics)
There is a logo on them which seems to be either SD or DS
The pin footprint is completely different to anything in the SmartSwitch catalog but the pins do match the pin descriptions of the 36x24 SmartSwitch
Maybe these are discontinued models?
-
no, but they did come from a company making broadcast & film production equipment, it seems they were popular for that
-
Googling for the names marked on the pins lead me to this (currently) dead link (http://s1.nonlinear.ir/epublish/magazine/Circuit_Cellar/Circuit%20Cellar%5Bnonlinear.ir%5D%20020%201991.pdf) but that made me search for "Circuit Cellar 020 1991" and I found a working link (https://novafile.com/ysjvsvx7zqgj), on page 52 you may find the details: it is the "Pixie switch" from IEE (http://ieeinc.com/).
Another brief mention here (http://www.hpmuseum.org/cgi-sys/cgiwrap/hpmuseum/archv014.cgi?read=71441).
That and this brief mention (http://dl.acm.org/ft_gateway.cfm?id=259982&ftid=39068&dwn=1&CFID=605462802&CFTOKEN=36785495) are about all I can find about this part on the Internet.
Maybe if you ask IEE they might give you a datasheet?
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that looks a perfect match for what i have here, thanks!!
i'll email them and see if i get anything back, given that article dates from 1991 i won't hold my breath!
i have about 40 of them here so would be nice if they could be used somehow
Googling for the names marked on the pins lead me to this (currently) dead link (http://s1.nonlinear.ir/epublish/magazine/Circuit_Cellar/Circuit%20Cellar%5Bnonlinear.ir%5D%20020%201991.pdf) but that made me search for "Circuit Cellar 020 1991" and I found a working link (https://novafile.com/ysjvsvx7zqgj), on page 52 you may find the details: it is the "Pixie switch" from IEE (http://ieeinc.com/).
Another brief mention here (http://www.hpmuseum.org/cgi-sys/cgiwrap/hpmuseum/archv014.cgi?read=71441).
That and this brief mention (http://dl.acm.org/ft_gateway.cfm?id=259982&ftid=39068&dwn=1&CFID=605462802&CFTOKEN=36785495) are about all I can find about this part on the Internet.
Maybe if you ask IEE they might give you a datasheet?
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I bought some motor driver boards from Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272301540441 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272301540441)
They claim they are "L298N", but the label on the chips are removed.
The apparent dentification of the input and output nodes does not appear to match L298N.
And the L298N does not even appear to be available in that package, either.
Anybody have a clue what these things could be?
(http://www.winddeal.net/image/097/05/47274/47274-1.jpg)
(http://www.winddeal.net/image/097/05/47274/47274-6.jpg)
(http://forums.parallax.com/uploads/attachments/50635/105523.jpg)
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When this happens I usually search for the same item from different
buyers sellers and look for ones where you can read the chip.
This one's easy to read: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272470664807 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272470664807)
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Thank you. So it is probably an MX1508.
Now if I can only find some information about it that is not in Chinese.
It appears to have a max of 10V, but I'm not even sure what is the current rating?
-
Thank you. So it is probably an MX1508.
Now if I can only find some information about it that is not in Chinese.
It appears to have a max of 10V, but I'm not even sure what is the current rating?
Peak Current:
2A
Continuous Current?
1.35A (One channel only)
or
0.6A (channel 1) + 1.3A (channel 2)
or
0.8A (channle 1) + 1.2A (channel 2)
-
I found more information here... (http://sales.dzsc.com/486222.html)
Google automatic translation of the text:
MX1508 SOP-16 Four-Channel Dual Brushless DC Motor Driver IC
Overview
The product provides an integrated brushless DC motor drive solution for battery-powered toys, low-voltage or battery-powered motion control applications
case. The circuit integrates two channels of N-channel and P-channel power MOSFET design of the H-bridge drive circuit, suitable for driving electric toy car steering
Wheel and rear drive, (drive brushless DC motor or drive two stepping motors). The circuit has a wide operating voltage range (from
2V to 9.6V), the maximum continuous output current of the steering wheel reaches 0.8A, and the maximum peak output current reaches 1.5A. Rear wheel drive maximum continuous output power
Flow reaches 1.5A, the maximum peak output current reaches 2A.
The drive circuit built-in thermal protection circuit. Through the drive circuit load current is much greater than the maximum circuit current, by the package cooling capacity
Limit, the internal chip chip temperature will rise rapidly, once more than the set value (typical 150 °C), the internal circuit will immediately turn off the output power
Rate, cut off the load current, to avoid the temperature continued to rise caused by plastic packaging smoke, fire and other security risks. Built-in temperature hysteresis circuit, indeed
After the circuit is restored to a safe temperature, the circuit is allowed to be re-controlled.
The
Features:
a. Low standby current (less than 0.1uA);
b. Low static operating current;
c. Integrated H bridge drive circuit;
d. Built-in anti-common conduction circuit;
e low conduction resistance of the power MOSFET;
F. Built-in overheat protection circuit (TSD) with hysteresis effect;
g. Antistatic rating: 3KV (HBM).
Typical applications
a. 2-6 AA / AAA battery powered motor drive;
b. 2-6 nickel-hydrogen / nickel-cadmium rechargeable battery-powered toy motor drive;
c. 1-2 lithium battery-powered motor drive
-
Hello,
Any ideas on this IC?
(https://image.ibb.co/fvZYaa/EVOLV_charger_XL_chip.jpg)
It is in a USB charge & communication board.
Pin-2 is connecting to USB data-
Pin-3 is connecting to USB data+
Pin-6 is connecting to USB +5V
Pins 1, 4, 5 can be connected at ground or/and one an other.
It is in parallel with USB data pins.
It is not connecting as USB data filter.
The signals don't pass through IC.
-
ESD protection? E.g. AOZ8881.
-
PUSBM12VX4-TL
http://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PUSBMXX4-TL_SER.pdf (http://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PUSBMXX4-TL_SER.pdf)
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Hi all,
Any idea what this part from STMicroelectronics could be? "ST L6401ES" in a Multiwatt-11 package
Thanks!
-
Where did you get the part number? What is this device used for?
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Any idea what this part from STMicroelectronics could be? "ST L6401ES" in a Multiwatt-11 package
Found you something: http://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/L6401 (http://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/L6401). There seems to be a datasheet downloadable, but you need a login to do so.
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Clicking the datasheet download link on that page (with an account) takes you to a search on the ST site for L6401. With no results...
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That’s unfortunate :/
Maybe contact ST directly (http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/contact-us.html)?
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This doide'ish thing, what is it? It is used in an induction stove, I guess to monitor the temperature of the plate. It has a voltage drop of 3V both ways so what part does that? The drop slightly decreases when I warm it up by hand.
First picture is how it sits in the stove against the bottom of the glass plate (separated by some kind of isolating plate), the 'diode' legs are downwards into the red rubber, the aluminium (?) 'flag' is touching the diode.
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Looks like a thermistor. What is the resistance? Probably 10k or 100k.
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Looks like a thermistor. What is the resistance? Probably 10k or 100k.
You are probably right, if I measure the resistance it is around 100K but not stable at all, but the voltage drop is as stable as 2.995V, so that made me wonder.
-
Looks like a silicon thermistor.
Picture has a basic match to this:
http://www.amwei.com/views.asp?hw_id=65 (http://www.amwei.com/views.asp?hw_id=65)
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Where did you get the part number? What is this device used for?
I have a bag full of them along with other motor control IC's (three phase, Stepper, DC...) so it might be a control IC or similar.
That’s unfortunate :/
Maybe contact ST directly (http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/contact-us.html)?
Elusive component! Guess I'll have to. Strange not to find any reference whatsoever...
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I have a bag full of them along with other motor control IC's (three phase, Stepper, DC...) so it might be a control IC or similar.
Seems very probable - the L prefix seems to be used by ST for motor control stuff (as well as a few other oddities), there are even some other L64xx devices such as the L6470 microstepping driver. Perhaps ES indicates engineering sample, and the part never made it to market?
-
That makes sense... from an ST datasheet:
"Parts marked as "ES", "E" or accompanied by an Engineering Sample notification letter, are not yet qualified and therefore not yet ready to be used in production and any consequences deriving from such usage will not be at ST charge. In no event, ST will be liable for any customer usage of these engineering samples in production. ST Quality has to be contacted prior to any decision to use these Engineering Samples to run qualification activity."
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I found these old relays, 12 individual silver-contact glass reed relays to one coil, which looks to be 12v nominal. They are marked as Elliott Brothers 'Sealed Contact Reed Relay' Type ERP. PT No. A. with the number 31262 on the outside, and '32232/105' on the side of the coil itself. According to wikipedia this company was in business in the fifties and sixties as a computer manufacturer. I am wondering whether anyone knows more about these 12 pole reed relays, and what they might have been used for, as google has not been very helpful. The picture shows two assembled units, and one that has been taken to bits.
Edit: It's hard to tell from the photo I posted, but the reed switches are quite large. The glass envelope is 5cm long, with a diameter of about 5mm.
Thanks!
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i found this the other day, it looked unusual...
it's a 30 pin sealed metal can with a ceramic hybrid inside containing 32 dies and the usual laser etched resistors and SMD caps
marked as ITT 5C1/137848 AAWJ 80/10B ISSB
any ideas? no purpose for knowing other than curiosity...
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That hybrid circuit is a piece of art!
I do not know what its purpose is, but it looks kind of military. To my knowledge ITT industries (International Telephone & Telegraphs Corporation) did have and still has an aerospace and avionics department.
You could send a request via itt.com (http://itt.com), or ittaerospace.com (http://ittaerospace.com).
Here is a short article on hybrid circuits (http://www.wylie.org.uk/technology/computer/ICs/hybrid/hybrid.htm), featuring something in a similar package.
Thanks for the photos, it’s mesmerizing :)
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Can anyone make out these hieroglyphics? (pic 1)
The IC is an 8 pin low-side regulator in a small charger for laptops.
The high-side controller markings are clear, and the data was easy to find. (pic 2, SG5842JASZ http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf2/81/67/816778/sg5842ja.pdf (http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf2/81/67/816778/sg5842ja.pdf) )
The charger is 20V 2A output, and I hope to change it to 12V. And a bit more current. Hacking it because I need a physically SMALL power supply for this (pic 3). Yes, I know I will have to rewind the transformer.
-
Can anyone make out these hieroglyphics? (pic 1)
L03AIW
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Maybe "103AIW" ?
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30723 (http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30723)
From its function-by-location it would be a comparator/op-amp and reference. But I'm not finding data yet.
Edit: Got it! ST TSM103. Dual op amp and voltage reference.
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/517784/STMICROELECTRONICS/TSM103AIDT.html (http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/517784/STMICROELECTRONICS/TSM103AIDT.html)
Edit 2: Now to see if I can dissolve the epoxy holding the transformer ferrite halves together.
Anyone recognize the make from the part number printed on it? Source? (assuming I break it.)
-
I found these old relays, 12 individual silver-contact glass reed relays to one coil, which looks to be 12v nominal. They are marked as Elliott Brothers 'Sealed Contact Reed Relay' Type ERP. PT No. A. with the number 31262 on the outside, and '32232/105' on the side of the coil itself. According to wikipedia this company was in business in the fifties and sixties as a computer manufacturer. I am wondering whether anyone knows more about these 12 pole reed relays, and what they might have been used for, as google has not been very helpful. The picture shows two assembled units, and one that has been taken to bits.
Edit: It's hard to tell from the photo I posted, but the reed switches are quite large. The glass envelope is 5cm long, with a diameter of about 5mm.
Thanks!
I've pulled apart old boards that had multi-reed relays like that in the past. I think they were used to select between several different cables, where a cable would have that many wires. Say 4 cables, use 4 of those blocks. Energise only one.
They were from the days when interfaces tended to have a lot of separate wires. So that was the only way to do it.
Anyway, now you have enough reed relays to put sensors on every door in a large house.
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Looking for some help identifying these components, with the following smd marks:
transistors AB3, 1A3 (Complimentary?)
Z14F, Z16F ic's
transistor TEw
Thanking you in advance (and probably again later :)
Jeremiah
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Hi everybody
Found this thing in a bunch of throw away from a company doing audio, looks like ceramic encased , quite heavy, no marking of any type beside a handwritten number serialized in all them.
my bet ? microphone capsule, but too many wires...
any info will be good
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Hi everybody
Found this thing in a bunch of throw away from a company doing audio, looks like ceramic encased , quite heavy, no marking of any type beside a handwritten number serialized in all them.
my bet ? microphone capsule, but too many wires...
any info will be good
There are ceramic pressure sensing capsules that look somewhat similar. https://www.sensorsone.com/ceramic-pressure-transducer-cells-for-oem-design/ (https://www.sensorsone.com/ceramic-pressure-transducer-cells-for-oem-design/)
Do not know much about these though...
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I found a bunch of these and initially thought they are a dual diode based on diode check but later found out that they might be something else as they have a zener like property on some of the pins. My Googling didn't turn up any useful result. Any help would be appreciated.
It is a SOT23 and device marking is 5A6i
Edit: tried the link in previous post and it didn't show any possible candidate.
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It will be a 5A6 that is a NXP/Philips Dual Zener PZM5.6NB2A which is a dual 5.6V zener with common anodes.
http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/p/z/pzm-na_series_philips.pdf (http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/p/z/pzm-na_series_philips.pdf)
I suspect that "I" is actually an H on its side. Don't know what that means.
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It will be a 5A6 that is a NXP/Philips Dual Zener PZM5.6NB2A which is a dual 5.6V zener with common anodes.
http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/p/z/pzm-na_series_philips.pdf (http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/p/z/pzm-na_series_philips.pdf)
I suspect that "I" is actually an H on its side. Don't know what that means.
I measured with 5mA constant current and there it was, 5.6V exactly. What threw me off was the bi-directional breakdown voltage between pins 1-2. Looking at the datasheet internal connection, it made sense. :palm:
Thanks for the wake up call. I tend to be good at this but today was not my day. :phew:
-
Looking for some help identifying these components, with the following smd marks:
s08040
s07040
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behrang_dvb: It's almost certainly a 32.768kHz crystal.
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Hi,
Would someone have any idea what this could be?
It comes out of a HF can from some medical equipment.
There is no continuity between any pads and I don't have any mean to measure capacitance.
(https://image.ibb.co/hQGXFv/20170607_231800.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/eQUV2a/20170607_231453.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/cRfg8F/20170607_231610.jpg)
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A crystal, perhaps?
-Pat
-
Hi Pat,
I'm pretty sure it is not a crystal. My best guess is capacitor but I've never seen one like that.
Here is a photo of the board it come from.
(https://image.ibb.co/hM1AJF/20170608_151315.jpg)
The same component (different size) on the top left has a RF signal coming in on one of the small tab from outside the can. Something must come out the other small tab, it's connected to the rest of the circuitry inside the can. The outside of the component is connected to the ground plane.
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It is a coaxial ceramic filter. It is probably a bandpass filter.
They are often used for duplexer filters, because of their high Q.
http://www.mcv-microwave.com/ceramic-filters.html (http://www.mcv-microwave.com/ceramic-filters.html)
http://www.t-ceram.com/ENGLISH/filter-diplexer.htm (http://www.t-ceram.com/ENGLISH/filter-diplexer.htm)
http://www.lorch.com/ceramic.html (http://www.lorch.com/ceramic.html)
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Thanks a lot. Any idea which manufacturer that logo is from?
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what type of USB is this? is it a phone type mini B? is this a USB data interface ? not just 5volt.
has anyone used this chinese DROK 200119 timer
the DROK 200119 instructions do not say a lot about the USB port.
http://www.droking.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/200119_instruction.pdf (http://www.droking.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/200119_instruction.pdf)
what I do know about the DROK 200119 is-
DROK 200119 has its micro ic hidden under the 3 digit 7 segment display.
the programmable micro has 18 modes with 2 time settings from 0.1 sec to hrs.
-
The datasheet says USB micro, 5V supply, same as a phone charger. Is hard to tell if there is any data supposed to go through it.
Is there any trace going somewhere from the two middle tabs of the connector? If not, definitely no data.
-
The datasheet says USB micro, 5V supply, same as a phone charger. Is hard to tell if there is any data supposed to go through it.
Is there any trace going somewhere from the two middle tabs of the connector? If not, definitely no data.
need more time set up some 0.5mm test probes on a test jig.
as its hard to see without scratching for the traces. |O ripping up the pcb. :-- I was hoping for a USB data dock, so I can setup the timer without using the slow and clunky 3 digit 7 segment interface. :-\
-
From what you can see, I wouldn't up my hopes too much. on the front of the board, you can see a trace leaving the rightmost tab of the connector, go down and then left, leaving very little space for anything coming of the two middle tabs. And at the back of the board, there is only one via.
A quick test would be to plug it in the USB port of your computer. If the computer is showing signs of new hardware, there is a data connection.
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yes its micro usb :palm: I was only familiar with the mini usb and no its not a data port only a 5volt input. :(
so its back to the 200119 instructions ;D
-
Hi All,
This board (see pictures) comes from the late 60's oscilloscope I am trying to repair.
I am confused when it comes to some components. I suspect they are capacitors (the silkscreen would suggest pF) but the marking on them is a bit confusing - 20M for 20p silkscreen, 10M for 10p, 510K for 500p, 2000K for 2000p...
I removed one "51K" (marked 50p on the board) and tested it. Capacitance jumps up and down crazily at the beginning and then it settles at steady "47pF". The resistance test shows "OL". This would suggest capacitors as marked on the board's silkscreen but I just wanted to make sure. Especially, that the symbol used on the silkscreen is very similar to the resistor (an empty rectange but a bit shorter than the resistor's).
Also, can I replace them with standard ceramic caps? They are all marked with "WV. 250", so should I assume "Working Voltage" 0.25V or 250V? I think 250V would be safer.
-
Hi,
They are polystyrene capacitors and the M and K are tolerance marking, not multiplier.
M for +- 20%
K for +- 10%
As far as I know, please someone correct me if I'm wrong, those capacitors are extremely reliable and unless physically damaged or sustained dielectric arcing, they shouldn't really need replacing. (Please get someone else to confirm this)
And yes, voltage in in V, not mV
-
Thank you very much for confirmation and new info (tolerances). I learned something again :)
Yes, I read somewhere else, that polystyrene capacitors are very reliable and nowadays are used only for special applications. I will not replace them then :-+
On the other hand, I think I will replace most (if not all) of electrolytic caps, as this is a very aged piece of equipment. I am not sure about oil capacitors though. I have no experience with them at all. Should they be treated as electrolytic caps?
Thank you for your help.
-
As far as I know, please someone correct me if I'm wrong, those capacitors are extremely reliable and unless physically damaged or sustained dielectric arcing, they shouldn't really need replacing. (Please get someone else to confirm this)
Yup!
-
Thank you very much for confirmation and new info (tolerances). I learned something again :)
Yes, I read somewhere else, that polystyrene capacitors are very reliable and nowadays are used only for special applications. I will not replace them then :-+
On the other hand, I think I will replace most (if not all) of electrolytic caps, as this is a very aged piece of equipment. I am not sure about oil capacitors though. I have no experience with them at all. Should they be treated as electrolytic caps?
Thank you for your help.
"Oil capacitors" are usually the starter capacitors used with electric motors. In older radios and TVs, the capacitors are made of oiled paper (commonly called "paper capacitors"), which tend to dry over the years as well. In this case there is a chance you have to replace them as well.
https://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm
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Hi rsjsouza,
First of all I like your avatar :) and thank you for your reply.
Attached is a photo of an oil capacitor I have in this old oscilloscope. My question remains: should I treat them like electrolytic capacitors or should I try to find an oil capacitor? As I explained before, I have no experience with them.
-
Thanks for the photograph. I now fully understand your question: I would replace them with modern ceramic or polyester film capacitors that will never go bad. Just watch the working voltage.
I found the other reference I couldn't find yesterday:
http://www.justradios.com/captips.html (http://www.justradios.com/captips.html)
-
That's a bloody Nippon Chemicon! Check to see if it still works.
-
I will sure check, but being a novice, I am not sure if you mean they are "indestructible" or "gold plated" ;) and if they work, should I leave them as they are because of their brilliant reputation; or should I replace them? Bear in mind that they are 50 years old and even if they still work, should I trust them to continue to work and for how long?
-
Nippon Chemi-chon capacitors have excellent reputation for durability. Despite this, the particular dielectric technology can have a limited lifespan regardless of the brand.
I hate replacing parts without need, but it is very difficult to properly test this capacitor throughout its voltage range of 1.5kV - you never know if it has a leak that manifests itself only after a specific voltage.
All in all, if you can spare the time you can leave the capacitor, repair everything else, reassemble the unit and test it - if it works well you leave it there but if it doesn't you have a suspect.
-
Hey all,
I was unsoldering some components off a board and "scored" 4 nice looking optocouplers while doing it. However, I'm having a hard time finding a data sheet for them. The numbers are easily readable but the only letter of the name I can clearly make out is the F at the beginning. It looks kinda like FyyD, FyyN, or from a distance it looks like Fury. The are all marked 735 in front and 6E in back. Anybody have any idea what they are? And maybe a data sheet or link to one? It would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Rob
-
Hi.
Might be a silly question but, are you sure they are opto's?
-
Hey all,
I was unsoldering some components off a board and "scored" 4 nice looking optocouplers while doing it. However, I'm having a hard time finding a data sheet for them. The numbers are easily readable but the only letter of the name I can clearly make out is the F at the beginning. It looks kinda like FyyD, FyyN, or from a distance it looks like Fury. The are all marked 735 in front and 6E in back. Anybody have any idea what they are? And maybe a data sheet or link to one? It would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Rob
Not an F, it's in japanese and says Moririca (Moririca Electronics Ltd) and according to Google it is a optocopler and called MCD735, but that is all I can find on the net with my five minute search.
/stefan
-
Hi.
Might be a silly question but, are you sure they are opto's?
Yes without a doubt. I have other optos just like it. You can look at the legs and tell the LED on one side and the CDS on the other.
-
Not an F, it's in japanese and says Moririca (Moririca Electronics Ltd) and according to Google it is a optocopler and called MCD735, but that is all I can find on the net with my five minute search.
/stefan
Ah OK. Thanks. I typed all kinds of things in google. I would have never thought it might be Japanese writing.
-
In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
Yes, that's what it's for, the permanent magnet biases the inductor to oppose the DC current so a smaller, cheaper core can be used.
Might be, but might also be line linearity correction. Magnet causes the inductor to saturate in one current direction only, giving more current on that side of scan. Some have a rotatable magnet for adjustment.
-
Those look like LDR (light dependent resistor) type, driven by a visible LED. The LED pins are the thick ones and the LDR the thin ones.
Try applying current to the LED (correct polarity) over a 0-20mA range and monitor the LDR pins on the Ohms range of your DMM. If you see a varying resistance which is the same when you reverse the connections then it is an LDR.
They're useful for control of AC signals, for instance, volume controls or amplitude feedback in a low distortion Wein Bridge oscillator. Here's a generic app note:
http://www.perkinelmer.com/CMSResources/Images/44-3429APP_AnalogOpticalIsolatorsAudioApps.pdf (http://www.perkinelmer.com/CMSResources/Images/44-3429APP_AnalogOpticalIsolatorsAudioApps.pdf)
Try looking up Vactrol too, I think they make them.
P.S. Once you have an idea of the resistance range then you probably don't care much about the specific datasheet. But don't go above 20mA on the LED.
-
Yeah. Like I said I definitely know what it is. I have tested it. I just cant read the name so I can download the data sheet .pdf, that's all.
Thanks!
-
I forgot to mention the acronym LDR. LDR is a CDS Photoresister.
-
Looks like you might have to do specs measurement yourself. Can't seem to find a readable datasheet either |O
In every CRT monitor or TV I have taken apart, there was this odd inductor that has a permanent magnet glued to it. Is that to offset the magnetic field generated by a DC bias current so a cheaper core can be used?
Yes, that's what it's for, the permanent magnet biases the inductor to oppose the DC current so a smaller, cheaper core can be used.
Might be, but might also be line linearity correction. Magnet causes the inductor to saturate in one current direction only, giving more current on that side of scan. Some have a rotatable magnet for adjustment.
What did I miss about this 6 years old post resurfacing?
Even though the comment is perfectly pertinent.
-
There is a cross reference here
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Parts-for-Amps/Optocoupler/Tesla-Optocoupler-3WK-163-40::7720.html?language=en&MODsid=7ecjqtf8cus0a47u8nc0mgu8d7 (https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Parts-for-Amps/Optocoupler/Tesla-Optocoupler-3WK-163-40::7720.html?language=en&MODsid=7ecjqtf8cus0a47u8nc0mgu8d7)
Google results for the cross reference
https://www.google.com.au/search?site=&source=hp&ei=jK5TWaHxJ4i30QT6h7ugAQ&q=vtl5c1+datasheet&oq=VTL5C1&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.2.0l5.1625.1625.0.3705.3.2.1.0.0.0.263.263.2-1.1.0....0...1.2.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.2.312.3..35i39k1.GITtfNNTRuE#xxri=0 (https://www.google.com.au/search?site=&source=hp&ei=jK5TWaHxJ4i30QT6h7ugAQ&q=vtl5c1+datasheet&oq=VTL5C1&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.2.0l5.1625.1625.0.3705.3.2.1.0.0.0.263.263.2-1.1.0....0...1.2.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.2.312.3..35i39k1.GITtfNNTRuE#xxri=0)
Direct link to a datasheet
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://logosfoundation.org/instrum_gwr/playerpiano/Optor_VTL5C1_87223.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj8ndmT0uDUAhXMJpQKHTQHDlsQFggkMAA&usg=AFQjCNHQWDC5cWHVx0bgbrtn-8sv4cGE-A (https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://logosfoundation.org/instrum_gwr/playerpiano/Optor_VTL5C1_87223.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj8ndmT0uDUAhXMJpQKHTQHDlsQFggkMAA&usg=AFQjCNHQWDC5cWHVx0bgbrtn-8sv4cGE-A)
-
There is a cross reference here
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Parts-for-Amps/Optocoupler/Tesla-Optocoupler-3WK-163-40::7720.html?language=en&MODsid=7ecjqtf8cus0a47u8nc0mgu8d7 (https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Parts-for-Amps/Optocoupler/Tesla-Optocoupler-3WK-163-40::7720.html?language=en&MODsid=7ecjqtf8cus0a47u8nc0mgu8d7)
Google results for the cross reference
https://www.google.com.au/search?site=&source=hp&ei=jK5TWaHxJ4i30QT6h7ugAQ&q=vtl5c1+datasheet&oq=VTL5C1&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.2.0l5.1625.1625.0.3705.3.2.1.0.0.0.263.263.2-1.1.0....0...1.2.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.2.312.3..35i39k1.GITtfNNTRuE#xxri=0 (https://www.google.com.au/search?site=&source=hp&ei=jK5TWaHxJ4i30QT6h7ugAQ&q=vtl5c1+datasheet&oq=VTL5C1&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.2.0l5.1625.1625.0.3705.3.2.1.0.0.0.263.263.2-1.1.0....0...1.2.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.2.312.3..35i39k1.GITtfNNTRuE#xxri=0)
Direct link to a datasheet
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://logosfoundation.org/instrum_gwr/playerpiano/Optor_VTL5C1_87223.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj8ndmT0uDUAhXMJpQKHTQHDlsQFggkMAA&usg=AFQjCNHQWDC5cWHVx0bgbrtn-8sv4cGE-A (https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://logosfoundation.org/instrum_gwr/playerpiano/Optor_VTL5C1_87223.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj8ndmT0uDUAhXMJpQKHTQHDlsQFggkMAA&usg=AFQjCNHQWDC5cWHVx0bgbrtn-8sv4cGE-A)
Wow Awesome, You da man!
I make Vactrols, Optocouplers all the the time. I have way more of my own than bought because they are so easy to make.
For those who don't know, you just point a YELLOW LED (for best results) at a LDR (CDS Photoresister) and heat shrink tube it. Or find little things you can use like pens and such. I've hollowed out capacitors, round fuse holders, even just wrapping black electrical tape works in a pinch. Anything completely lightproof will work.
Thanks a million Bendba!
Rob
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No worries, glad it helped.
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Hi!
Found the mystery component in an intercom system, and none of us could figure out what it is. The one we can't figure out is the 4-pin, white thing next to the 8-pin smd relay between the two resistors (the board has two identical setups on either side). The silver-colored stuff in the middle reminded me of an LED, with two asymmetrical halves separated by a narrow gap, but that wouldn't make sense. The function of the board is to switch a microphone signal and ptt-button signal from one input to one of two radios depending on the position of an external switch.
Hope my explanation is not too confusing, being quite exhausted after over 20 hours of work on the intercom system...
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That is clearly a LED or some other opoelectric component.
OSRAM calls this package style SIDELED:
http://www.osram-os.com/Graphics/XPic3/00090950_0.pdf (http://www.osram-os.com/Graphics/XPic3/00090950_0.pdf)
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It quite clearly is, despite serving no apparent reason in there... Thank you!
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Sometimes LEDs are used as low voltage zener diodes (zener diodes below 4V typically have a very soft transition, LEDs have a much steeper current slope).
But in this case based on the position next to the relay I would assume they show the active relay.
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My guess was also to show which relay is active, but being mounted under another board in an IP67 box, they can't be seen once the box is mounted (which has to be done before connecting the external wiring). But then again this whole rats nest was made by a "professional" company specialized in communications systems, so who knows what they were thinking... :-//
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Being desperate to find spares for this
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4051/35239895580_1631cd5037.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VG2Fdy)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4242/35239894600_6c57118602.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VG2EVE)
it's a dual gang potentiometer... with endless rotation! used in lecroy test equipment
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Hi all,
Everyone in the world has seen these but I've been googling stuff like "Power Cable' Safety Clip, Security Clip, Cable Stop, Pull Stop, etc. and can't find what I'm looking for. I've destroyed at least 50 of these with pliers and a flat head over the years. I'm kinda embarrassed I don't know what they are. (See pic)
So I got a couple questions:
1) What are they actually called?
2) Whats the best way to open/remove them?
Thanks in advance!
Rob
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They are called strain reliefs. There are special pliers made for installing and removing them, though being cheap I've had success using a big end nipper.
-Pat
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Amazon links to examples of strain relief pliers:
https://www.amazon.com/Heyco-STANDARD-STRAIN-RELIEF-PLIERS/dp/B001BPY6KI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320042&sr=8-2&keywords=strain+relief+pliers (https://www.amazon.com/Heyco-STANDARD-STRAIN-RELIEF-PLIERS/dp/B001BPY6KI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320042&sr=8-2&keywords=strain+relief+pliers)
https://www.amazon.com/Pliers-ProsKit-Bushing-Assembly-Electrical/dp/B01N68Y9T8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320042&sr=8-3&keywords=strain+relief+pliers (https://www.amazon.com/Pliers-ProsKit-Bushing-Assembly-Electrical/dp/B01N68Y9T8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320042&sr=8-3&keywords=strain+relief+pliers)
https://www.amazon.com/Heyco-Strain-Relief-Bushing-Pliers/dp/B00DQN6LZ6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320042&sr=8-9&keywords=strain+relief+pliers (https://www.amazon.com/Heyco-Strain-Relief-Bushing-Pliers/dp/B00DQN6LZ6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320042&sr=8-9&keywords=strain+relief+pliers)
And my 'ersatz' strain relief pliers:
https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-148-10-10-Inch-Cutting-Nipper/dp/B000LEBRYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320342&sr=8-1&keywords=channellock+148-10 (https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-148-10-10-Inch-Cutting-Nipper/dp/B000LEBRYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499320342&sr=8-1&keywords=channellock+148-10)
-Pat
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They are called strain-relief bushings. The prominent vendor (an inventor?) is Heyco. https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/ (https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/)
They make literally hundreds of different styles and sizes of these things.
They also make special tools for installing (and removing) those things.
(https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/img/4-23draw.gif)
https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/product.cfm?product=Strain-Relief-Assembly-Tools§ion=Strain_Relief_Bushings (https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/product.cfm?product=Strain-Relief-Assembly-Tools§ion=Strain_Relief_Bushings)
But, like @Cubdriver said, I'm too cheap to buy one of those things for the occasional use I have for them. So I just use a large pair of pliers. Note that you have to squeeze the cord quite tightly to get the plastic piece out of the panel.
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I've done it with generic pliers or narrow-nose vice grips. Just pad the tips with tape so you don't chew up the plastic or scratch the metal panel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI2srvj0yzA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI2srvj0yzA)
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I bought a kit of these in a plastic box (about 20yrs ago when in the US), including the special pliers, they were pretty cheap , just pressed metal , but they worked very well.
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I would like to identify an IC on a toner cartridge reset module ('chip'). It's a 24-pin QFP labeled TN501 P1052 (the latter is presumably a date code). The attached picture of the device is from a different model toner reset chip.
There are four large pads on the secondary side of the PCB for the printer interface, and six smaller pads for the programming/reset interface. VCC and GND are routed to both sets of pads, so it appears that the programming is/can be performed using three dedicated signals to the IC (and not the SDA/SCL pair that connects to the printer). Also note that Pin 4 is connected to GND through a cap, though it's possible that it's an additional power pin, connected to Pin 24 under the IC.
I want to reprogram this module from an Arduino, so need to figure out voltage compatibility (quick check on the printer pins indicates that it's 3.3V) and whether the I2C interface would work, or if I need to talk to the other device pins.
Thanks!
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I found this component inside a DAS E-2 amplifier and this was connected to the mute pin of the amps inside. 0.5mA is needed to be drawn from that pin and it doesn't seem to be happening. I kind of need to find what exactly this thing is to find the fault in my amp. any help would be appreciated. and google doesn't seems to be helping.
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Looks like an ordinary transistor. It was (is) common to leave off the "redundant" first character of the component identifier for parts with small bodies. My first guess would be a 2S170 transistor.
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More likely a BS170.
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I tried a few part numbers like BFS170 , MPS170, BSS170,
the only one that scored a hit was BS170 which is Fairchild's number for a 2N7000 N Channel Mosfet (these are very common, 60v, 200mA, about 2v thresh).
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(http://i.imgur.com/S0I7PHU.jpg)
Inside the base of a Honeywell Chronoterm IV... any ideas what this metal cased thing might be?
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Might be a thermal operated overload (bimetallic strip type)?
Is that a Y capacitor next to it or a MOV ?
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The temperature sensor, perhaps? If the unit is operational, try looking at the ambient temp that's displayed, then pop it open and either heat or cool (with your fingertip, a hair dryer or a piece of ice wrapped in plastic) that part, then quickly put it back together and see if the reading has changed. (Or put an ohmmeter across it and heat or cool it while watching the reading.)
-Pat
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I recall that, when I disassembled my Chronotherm III, I could not find anything else that resembled the room sensor and therefore by exclusion this was the one - especially because it sits close to an opening on both the PCB and the thermostat housing. It is most probably manufactured by Honeywell.
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If it's the only part in there (excluding the capacitor), then it has to be the temperature sensor.
I've not seen a packaged sensor in a rectangular housing before, they are usually cylindrical.
https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-temperature-sensors-line-guide-009033-4-en.pdf
If there are 3 wires going to the box (and two are connected together) then you will have an RTD , otherwise it will be a NTC thermister. Most probably your sensor will be 2000ohms or 10000ohms at ~ 25C . If you increase the temperature by 10C and the resistance approximately doubles then it is a thermistor.
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I had a closer look and a little test, and I think I found out what its purpose is.
If I take the unit out of the base and insert the batteries, it still displays a temperature, so it doesn't need the base for that.
I found the temp sensor, it's a part called "RT1", is stood off the pcb and looks like a glass diode (without the cathode mark). Most likely the "135 series" discrete thermistor from the guide linked to in salbayeng's post above.
The device in my photo is in parallel with the contacts of the relay inside the Chronoterm IV, and so is the yellow part (a 7N560K, a MOV).
Half obscured is the refdes "SW1" close to the component, so that would indicate a switch.
That got me thinking that this is some last resort frost protection, if the thermostat itself has failed (or its batteries completely drained) or removed from the base, and the temperature would drop below freezing.
And sure enough, if I blast it with freeze spray, it shorts itself, making the heater go on.
So most likely a bi metallic switch.
Perhaps the "+005" means +5 °C, and that would, IMHO, be a logical value.
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Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone can help me identify this mystery component?
I attached a picture of the component, sorry it's blurry but my iphone isn't being very cooperative. The dimensions measure:
9x5x3 mm, with a bevel shown by how the light reflects off of it.
The red plastic looks like a sheath on top of something, and there is what appears to be an epoxy between the legs.
Outer two legs measure .5 ohms resistance between them.
The middle leg does not measure continuity to either outer leg, but does measure capacitance of .35nF against either outer leg.
Diode measurement of the legs registers a value only between the outer legs, and it is 0.00V in either orientation/direction.
It was put in an Epson ink cartridge detection spoofing circuit by a Chinese manufacturer. The integrated components of the ink cartridge which couple to 9 contacts in the printer when installed include;
1) a little circuit with a blob of black epoxy for hiding the component and that appear to use 7 of the 9 contacts (no picture attached for this one)
2) what appears to be some sort of ink sensor (see photo), using 2 of the remaining contacts/leads, integrated physically into a little ink reservoir, about 1 inch away from the cartridge "chip" itself. The two contacts meet at what appears to be a tiny gap, held in place by a thin membrane or film no larger than .5mm.
The mystery red component is integrated again into the Chinese spoofing system, soldered in place where the 2 leads from the ink sensor mates to the printer. But, the Chinese ink sensor has 3 connections, not 2 like the actual ink sensor it is spoofing.
I'm trying to identify this because the Chinese ink spoofing system won't work on my printer at the level of this ink sensor. The only difference I can find between readings I can make from the 2 leads of the actual ink sensor and the Chinese mystery component to spoof it is one of capacitance. The actual ink sensor measures .25nF, where as the Chinese one measures .35nF.
I've found information about capacitive fluid sensors online, so I know they exist. I can't reason why the Chinese component would require 3 legs, or why if my theory was right, that it is a capacative ink sensor, why they would have put a 3 leg component in place of what could be achieved with a 2 leg capacitor.
My lack of understanding of these issues is clearly not great, so I was hoping some folks out there might have an idea, or suggestions on what else to measure to try to identify what those Chinese folks were trying to do, and then I might be able to adjust the specs possibly to make it work in my situation.
Thanks All ! David
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Can anyone tell me what these are likely to be? (Found whilst sorting)
Thanks
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MCP1640 step
down up DC-DC converter, see page 21:
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002234D.pdf (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002234D.pdf)
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MCP1640 step down DC-DC converter
Awesome! I wondered where I had put those!!! Brilliant!
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MCP1640 step down DC-DC converter, see page 21:
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002234D.pdf (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002234D.pdf)
MCP1640 step up or down DC-DC converter. ;)
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My bad, typo. :-[
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At work a whole load of these weird red devices turned up in a draw, it's suspected they haven't been used for more than 20 years. They measure as a standard diode (tip negative), about 0.6V on a multimeter but I can't figure out anything more about them, or why they would be useful - it looks like they would plug into something else. My best thoughts are that either they needed to be replaceable for some reason, or would be configured by the user (diode ROM perhaps?).
See the attached picture which is the best I could get on my phone, it would be really interesting to know if anyone knows any more about these things?
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(http://i36.tinypic.com/29paqfb.jpg)
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You sank my battleship!
Thanks for posting that picture -- I'm not the OP, but I learned something about Diode Matrix Arrays
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_matrix
-David
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Those things were pretty slick back in the day.
The plug-boards had separate row- and column-contact paths.
So when you plug in one of those "pegs" it interconnects a row with a column.
And the diode prevented unintended "back-circuit" connections.
They did a similar thing with mixing audio, using resistors instead of diodes.
For example....
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/VCS3-Matrix.jpg/400px-VCS3-Matrix.jpg)
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I have received from Pollin (http://www.pollin.de/ (http://www.pollin.de/)) some part, including these two golden 377 TO-3 from Motorola.
I have no idea, what they are. Any suggestions? (Yes, I thought they could be a LM377 voltage regulator, but I am not sure about this)
Picture:
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While LM317 and LM337 are voltage regulators, LM377 is a 2-watt dual audio amp. Unless there's at least six pins on the other side, I'd rule that idea out.
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I have received from Pollin (http://www.pollin.de/ (http://www.pollin.de/)) some part, including these two golden 377 TO-3 from Motorola.
I suspect that the 377 is a date code (March 1977) and the part number is not there. Probably a special run for a big customer and perhaps they didn't want part numbers in the same way that companies grind the part numbers off the tops of ICs now.
You can check if it is a transistor, thyristor, triac, etc but you can do better with modern devices if you are building something.
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While LM317 and LM337 are voltage regulators, LM377 is a 2-watt dual audio amp. Unless there's at least six pins on the other side, I'd rule that idea out.
You are of course right, I've messed it up with the the LM317.
My component tester wasn't able to identify this part ("unkown or damaged part") and yes, it has only 2 pins. Ordinary TO-3 case.
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You can check if it is a transistor, thyristor, triac, etc but you can do better with modern devices if you are building something.
I did, it states "unkown or damaged part". These two thingies were a part of a variety of goods from Pollin.
Example: https://www.pollin.de/p/sortiment-transistoren-100-teilig-800445 (https://www.pollin.de/p/sortiment-transistoren-100-teilig-800445)
It is a kind of a lucky bag. :)
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PFFT, sometimes those so-called "component testers" are useless. Try just a standard diode tester to find the junctions, but you'd need a curve tracer to really know more about it. If you don't see any junctions, it's either dead or it might not be a normal semiconductor and it could be some sort of sensor or switch like a thermal cutout.
EDIT: might be 2N3773
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Heyas,
Slightly odd question here, but wondering if any one can tell me what this is. Found under the house.
Think it is a battery? Thought maybe a leyden jar (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leyden_jar). Doesnt look like wikipedia.
There is a broken wire and some dead spiders inside.
(https://i.imgur.com/Iw3Kw8U.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KPssGRBl.jpg)
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My guess is, that someone built a lead acid battery.
The grayish silver rods should be lead.
Just like in this picture.
»Lead acid batteries in lab testing. Image: US National Institute of Standards and Technology«
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Nope, not lead-acid, different chemistry. That bar should be zinc, not lead.
It's the original wet version of a Leclanché cell, used to power early telegraph and telephone systems. Probably over a century old. Probably worth some cash to a collector. How old is your house?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leclanch%C3%A9_cell (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leclanch%C3%A9_cell)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLFs8Uf70ko (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLFs8Uf70ko)
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I've seen these connectors plenty of times, but don't know what they are called or who makes them.
Hoping for a cheap Aliexpress source, since I'm after about 150 of the connector shrouds and pin sets to match these connectors on some stepper motors.
The motor connector pins are standard 0.1" spacing, pins are 0.6mm square. But the pin length is about 4mm. Much shorter than the usual 0.1" pin headers.
This is because I have about 130 of these stepper motors. http://everist.org/NobLog/20171004_buying_lathe.htm#steppers (http://everist.org/NobLog/20171004_buying_lathe.htm#steppers)
Edit: Wow, finding a 100+ year old leclanche cell under your house, in Australia, is awesome.
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Seems quite possible that it is a 2.50mm pitch JST connector
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector
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Looks possible, thanks.
I found some ebay photos of that stepper type, with mating connector. But they don't name the connector, of course. Anyway, some pics off ebay;
Edit: Hmm, looks like the EH variety might be it. http://www.jst.com/home8.html (http://www.jst.com/home8.html)
... Oh FFS. Their catalog requires Adobe Flash. Which I very much prefer to not have. Sigh. Other PC...
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Check out the JST PHR-6 connector housing and SPH-002T-P0.5S pins.
Socket on the motor would be JST S6B-PH-K-S-2.2 if my guess is correct.
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Do you know what type of connector this is? I'm looking for the connector on the PCB. The device was built in the year 1991 in germany, it was developed in denmark.
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It is typically quite useful to include the PITCH (distance between pins in mm or inches) when asking questions about connectors.
If for no other reason than to provide some sort of scale so we know what we are looking at.
Withholding the identity of the "device" is not typically in your best interest.
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It is typically quite useful to include the PITCH (distance between pins in mm or inches) when asking questions about connectors.
I will measure that later, the pcb is part of the battery charger in a CityEL (electric vehicle) it has two big heatsinks that are connected to the battery voltage which means that i need to disconnect the batteries, bms e.t.c. before i can remove the board. I Couldn't open the vehicle this morning, the lock is frozen, i will try to do some measurements later.
If for no other reason than to provide some sort of scale so we know what we are looking at.
Withholding the identity of the "device" is not typically in your best interest.
I was hoping that someone knows which type of connector this is. It is easier to find a maching connector with some keywords like for example JST (which it isn't). I've attached a bigger picture of all PCBs under the seat.
Top left: DC-DC step down converter for all devices that require 12V
Right side: Charger PCB with the connector i'm looking for
Bottom left: Part of the BMS (Power Supply, relais for controlling the charger, current limiter for the drive motor)
The connector on the bottom is not used anymore, it was used for the old current limiter board.
Edit:
I managed to find a similar conector in the pile of spare parts i got with the vehicle, the pitch is about 7mm, and the connector is about 5.5cm wide. Still can't open the vehicle i'm not sure if the connector does fit.
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It looks like a Molex connector that I am not familiar with, but I might be wrong.
If you go to Digikey that brand name might be helpful in narrowing it down.
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Ok, i did find the brand name hidden on the connector, the connector was made by AMP. The only other marking is O6 or 06, that dosn't help much :( I will search on digikey and other places.
Edit:
This connector type is called Universal MATE-N-LOK it is available at mouser:
https://www.mouser.ch/productdetail/te-connectivity/1969816-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuzXLcWrSfMr6X%252bw6IrKcxj5f3brCwTO8zVAAreYhg1iA%3D%3D (https://www.mouser.ch/productdetail/te-connectivity/1969816-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuzXLcWrSfMr6X%252bw6IrKcxj5f3brCwTO8zVAAreYhg1iA%3D%3D)
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Hi!
Plowing through the pile of RF junk, I have stumbled upon these. Could you please help me identify those two suckers?
The first one is the AD42866. The only mention of them is on this fake datasheet site (http://datasheet.icfull.com/AD4/), where you can only read it is (probably) a "Serial Input 16-Bit 4 mA-20 mA, 0 mA-20 mA DAC" - which mght be true. The 9752 is the date code, definitely not a part no. Looking for a datasheet seem like looking for unobtanium.
The second chip is really I-don't-have-any-clue-what-that-is-or-does type. There is an RF output at the bottom going to the MMIC amplifier, input at the top. There are also four digital lines going to the chip. The best of my guess is a programmable gain amplifier or attenuator. Is the last part in the IF receiver chain, the IF being likely 13.0MHz (?!), as it goes through a "E13.0A" ceramic filter before this IC.
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I can't find any useful information on the AD42866 either.
The full part name of the W1466C is likely the ATTW1466/W1466, which according to http://www.itfind.or.kr/Report/200301/IITA/IITA-1280/IITA-1280.pdf (http://www.itfind.or.kr/Report/200301/IITA/IITA-1280/IITA-1280.pdf) is a general-purpose IF amp for telecom applications. LUC indicates Lucent, who split off from AT&T. That document is from 1994 but I couldn't find it in https://archive.org/details/bitsavers_attdataBooectionGuide_6940311 (https://archive.org/details/bitsavers_attdataBooectionGuide_6940311) from 1995, so it might've been a really obscure/limited-production part. If you're really curious, you could try asking them...
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I have quite a lot (~10pcs) of these same RF boards, all of them contain the W1466 IC, but only some of them contain the AD42866. I was just curious if those ICs are any kind of interesting to reuse in some projects.
Anyway not that curious that I would write emails to the companies that made them. They would not tell me anything about it either. Such big corporates doesn't give rat's ass about nosy people like me.
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Leclanche would make a cool USB charger with a step-up converter. Just kidding. Was likely for an early phone system.
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Hi Guys :)
I picked these up in an op shop of all places.
I assume they are supposed to be like pogo pins, but they aren’t spring loaded,
and I can’t find anything similar by Googling.
They are a bit wider than DIP pitch which seems pretty useless.
Are they definitely for the same purpose?
and has anyone seen any that aren’t spring loaded before?
Cheers :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6yjDdGX6L4x3Yl2nf736RBLjcMsvE7BSPHyu4TAVhzQ4meq8XpPGVv1aRIWy0UFl4LYpFbFHfOu3d4-qSZOIU-6IAKxutp5hoRy7_JArQ2E4hKYUZldS3MdqCB3d8AvvV8Lz-85kCoMIGbFCxiDcKDUbxMMuGymNty3OMwPWST0iFeRtiSytFZ29cmmhc40SyrWcqfIThoziuNAV_vb2bfaG20KYHTyvGzgc7QZ1SGxHV0InlaWXlGZtLjjQZhCpEzDSzFNIItHd5L9waSpODDah_EBE55mLSGRHJoLSRguzVrydfiTAjCiWUoVi0Cn-UMj2uDya1fEc4EkWpPTKpwN3y3gOgiSSYW1tiwBs4_DZQx3oIaAO17HHUAWMSNnf7c1i_0lJYfccVBW6iEuG4N2XTVPps3tr2feiSgXmBwOzvRu8Jq8Ly8dGI-hHp1F57vp-YXqyx8sgD9siyeryOD3w5H3_ICw3QqvB79z7_bPREJ5KP77tibKqVWZd18fF_5N8K5-_BdE-btw5xH1KqTFIR5-Xh8kGUh6jZlf1JUNw1BHCz15SvBbfFi1XLIXDmsizfnc0GtHyGfUyHxqbYWkwXaiv3FocrcSWqm0=w696-h775-no)
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Had no clue what an "op shop" was, so looked it up. Around here they're called thrift stores.
So what is the measured pitch? Perhaps it's mean to plug into a connector? Or to contact some springy battery pack connectors?
It occurs to me that it may not be electrical at all. It could be someones bending jig for jewelry wire or spring making.
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Hi Guys :)
I picked these up in an op shop of all places.
I assume they are supposed to be like pogo pins, but they aren’t spring loaded,
and I can’t find anything similar by Googling.
They are a bit wider than DIP pitch which seems pretty useless.
Are they definitely for the same purpose?
and has anyone seen any that aren’t spring loaded before?
Cheers :)
Your image does not get displayed.
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Hi Guys :)
I picked these up in an op shop of all places.
I assume they are supposed to be like pogo pins, but they aren’t spring loaded,
and I can’t find anything similar by Googling.
They are a bit wider than DIP pitch which seems pretty useless.
Are they definitely for the same purpose?
and has anyone seen any that aren’t spring loaded before?
Cheers :)
Your image does not get displayed.
:wtf: It was working earlier! It says edited, did the OP break it?
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The edit was before my post, and I saw it also. More likely the host service decided it was getting too much traffic on that photo and disabled it.
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Yeah sorry about that, the edit was originally to fix an IMG tag, and it worked.
Google photos must have canned external links.
Photo bucket did the same thing after about a decade, so I guess I have to find something else :D
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(http://xanthe.arkku.net/pic/unkownlogo.jpg)
What is this manufacturer?
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(http://xanthe.arkku.net/pic/unkownlogo.jpg)
What is this manufacturer?
Bosch
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Oh dear me :palm:. Yeah bosch it is hahaha thank you sir! :D
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Well, I was curious enough to write an email and AD they say it's a custom part, no datasheet for you.
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Looking for any data/equivalent on this primary-side PWM.
Used in a Skynet AKE-9110 (850-911A) SMPS
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Looking for any data/equivalent on this primary-side PWM.
Used in a Skynet AKE-9110 (850-911A) SMPS
http://www.datasheetdir.com/SK8060-+PWM-Controllers (http://www.datasheetdir.com/SK8060-+PWM-Controllers)
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Looking for any data/equivalent on this primary-side PWM.
Used in a Skynet AKE-9110 (850-911A) SMPS
http://www.datasheetdir.com/SK8060-+PWM-Controllers (http://www.datasheetdir.com/SK8060-+PWM-Controllers)
Thanks for the link, at least that's a little something. It's incredible there isn't a single datasheet to be found on the internet for this part number.
After looking around a little, current mode PWMs with similar pinouts to SK-8060 are:
UC384x family. (Unitrode/Texas Instruments)
ISL684x family. (Intersil/Renesas)
TSM007 (ST)
NCP1252 (ONsemi. Funnily this one uses an external resistor only to set oscillator frequency. Other than that the schematic on the datasheet looks very similar to the one in your link.)
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(https://i.imgur.com/TLVyBUH.jpg?2)
Found inside a TomTom Go Live. Any ideas?
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Since there is a QR code - why not give that a shot?
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I don't have anything that will scan such a small QR-code.
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Take a close up photo and enhance the contrast with Irfanview or the photo processor of your choice. If you don’t have a mobile app, there are some web services where you can upload a picture to decode.
https://webqr.com/ for example.
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Thanks for the link, I tried a photo and the image from a USB microscope, but to no avail. Enhancing contrast and some other tricks don't seem to help.
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Mind sharing the pic here? Maybe someone else can decipher it :)
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OK, here (https://i.imgur.com/8RmEAYd.jpg) is the link to the image straight from the USB microscope. It's as good as I can get it (yeah, it's a crappy microscope). I need to keep the camera/microscope at an angle, otherwise it's totally invisible.
It looks like a DataMatrix code, so I tried a perfectly legible DataMatrix serial number sticker that I know a Zebra Symbol scanner has absolutely no problems scanning, but the decoder just says "error decoding QR Code" on that one too. Another online scanner does recognize that code, but still not the one on the IC.
Edit: I tweaked the image a little more, put it through this online decoder (https://online-barcode-reader.inliteresearch.com/) and it's indeed a DataMatrix code, it says this: 2730907261P01
No hits on google, so back to square one.
(https://i.imgur.com/1rrxG3T.jpg)
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Barometric pressure sensor, probably used there in combination with the GPS height info and the map data on elevation to give a weather forecast.
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Yes! That's it, thanks!
To be more specific, it is the SCP1000-D01.
(https://cdn.sparkfun.com//assets/parts/6/9/2/08161-03-L.jpg)
I didn't expect to find this in a car satnav, if it had been in my Garmin outdoor satnav, OTOH...
Since the barcode on this one looks slightly different, I'm thinking they laser engrave the ICs with a barcode rather than the normal markings (lot trace codes, datecodes, etc.). Or maybe even a serial number?
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Anyone know what this one is?
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CLC522AJE (http://datasheet.octopart.com/CLC522AJP-National-Semiconductor-datasheet-50624.pdf).
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OK, this is from the film War Games so maybe it isn't even real, but it looks like something that might have been real for a short period of time during the 1960s. An input device that allows the user to select an alpha-numeric digit by clicking through them, with some sort of code output. Seen these has decimal and hex code switches, but not as full alpha numeric with 36 options. Is it fake, real, or just really rare? Or maybe I am being fooled into thinking this is user-selectable and it is not.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what's-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=409013)
Digikey sells similar devices, numeric or hex only: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/thumbwheel-switches/214 (https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/thumbwheel-switches/214)
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So far as the movie prop itself goes, I doubt it. There's no actual requirement for the whole alphabet to be there in the movie. The switches look real (I've seen better pictures than yours), and they likely used one of the more common 8, 10, or 16 position dual push-button switches much like those that are still obtainable today. Prop departments surely have people who can re-label the code wheels to any symbols required. Or the switch manufacturer will do it, if you pay them enough for a special order.
Looking at history, the Enigma machine is the one that comes to mind first, since those pictures are easy to find.
As for real cold war hardware, if our military wanted such a switch, getting someone to make and sell them with the required number of positions was merely a detail with a price tag on it.
And I haven't looked very hard at all, but this looks interesting: https://www.hartmann-codier.com/products/rotary-code-switches/dh5/ (https://www.hartmann-codier.com/products/rotary-code-switches/dh5/)
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I'm trying to find some information about the following connectors.
This is the male header:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=410954;image)
This is the mating female connector:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=410956;image)
It is 15 pins. The pin pitch, as accurately as I could measure, appears to be 3mm. Both are through-hole mounted. The vertically-oriented male connector is approximately 32x12mm.
I've done a bit of searching but I've not found anything yet. I'm not even sure how you would classify this kind of connector. Board-to-board? Backplane? I'm specifically looking for the female mating connector, in either right-angle (as pictured) or vertical mounting.
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I inherited a bunch of discrete components from my father in law recently. Many very interesting bits from the 50’s and 60’s (I think) that are in superb condition, but this set of semi-conductors (I assume they are) has me flummoxed! Does anybody have any idea what they are?
They look like a two-lead TO-92 package with color code bars on both sides. There is nothing printed on the top or bottom. I’ve put 750v dc across them and they won’t blow or conduct any current.
Thoughts?
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Ah futz! I had tested several of these and couldn't get them to respond. Now I've run the rest through a component tester and they appear to be diodes with a forward voltage of 675 mV and reverse current of 6 nA. That's a pretty simple answer if correct. Maybe the first ones I tested really were blown already?
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I'm trying to find some information about the following connectors.
This is the male header:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=410954;image)
This is the mating female connector:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=410956;image)
It is 15 pins. The pin pitch, as accurately as I could measure, appears to be 3mm. Both are through-hole mounted. The vertically-oriented male connector is approximately 32x12mm.
I've done a bit of searching but I've not found anything yet. I'm not even sure how you would classify this kind of connector. Board-to-board? Backplane? I'm specifically looking for the female mating connector, in either right-angle (as pictured) or vertical mounting.
Even though they are no exact match (but maybe you can start looking from there), they seem somewhat similar to the Amphenol Type 57.
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Even though they are no exact match (but maybe you can start looking from there), they seem somewhat similar to the Amphenol Type 57.
Thanks. At least I have another term to try searching for: "micro ribbon". Although at ~3mm pitch, I don't think these quite classify as 'micro'.
I found something similar, the Molex 'Zyton' 87436 board-to-board series, but they are 1mm pitch (and also obsoleted).
The device these are on is a Japanese piece of audio equipment (for an optional module), and also features a Hirose connector elsewhere, so I trawled through a number of Japanese manufacturers - Hirose, JST, JAE, Sumitomo, Yazaki, Panasonic - but with no luck. :(
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I inherited a bunch of discrete components from my father in law recently. Many very interesting bits from the 50’s and 60’s (I think) that are in superb condition, but this set of semi-conductors (I assume they are) has me flummoxed! Does anybody have any idea what they are?
They look like a two-lead TO-92 package with color code bars on both sides. There is nothing printed on the top or bottom. I’ve put 750v dc across them and they won’t blow or conduct any current.
Thoughts?
I hope you meant 750mV not 750V, otherwise you vaporized them.
They're probably varactor diodes.
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You must be correct. I set up a test rig where I could reverse bias these with a variable voltage and an inductor (wikipedia helps a lot) and they've got a significant range of variable capacitance. Putting other normal diodes into this circuit also shows a variable capacitance, but it's much, much smaller.
When I got here I knew nothing about varactor diodes, and now I at least know what they are, how they're made, and (partially) why they're used. Thanks!!
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This device was put in a box on the sidewalk to be picked up for free.
I am clueless as to what exactly this is designed to do.
Any suggestions?
AC input voltage goes through some filtering (cap and inductor) and into a relay. Seems like the relay is switched externally through voltage applied to one of those old speaker connectors (o|).
There are a bunch of 100k pots and a BC107A NPN transistor per 'channel', presumably driving the MOSFETS (?) on the output (TO-220, labeled Malaysia TTCI06D).
The PCB reads "FZA ELMSHORN EL7567A2 LB1"
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Presumably a classic disco light. The TO220 parts are thyristors/SCRs.
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This device was put in a box on the sidewalk to be picked up for free.
I am clueless as to what exactly this is designed to do.
Any suggestions?
A 'light organ'?
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I'm trying to find some information about the following connectors.
...
It is 15 pins. The pin pitch, as accurately as I could measure, appears to be 3mm. Both are through-hole mounted. The vertically-oriented male connector is approximately 32x12mm.
I've done a bit of searching but I've not found anything yet. I'm not even sure how you would classify this kind of connector. Board-to-board? Backplane? I'm specifically looking for the female mating connector, in either right-angle (as pictured) or vertical mounting.
I'm still not having any luck trying to track down this thing. :( I did find some better pictures of it, though:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=412346;image)
Unfortunately, they were on an archived copy of some long-defunct (from 2008) German website about some guy's personal electronic project to make his own expansion module, so no further information forthcoming from that avenue unfortunately.
I have a feeling this might actually be a Panasonic part, because I did a Google image searching for similar images and found something claiming it was a spare part used for some range of Panasonic equipment (although the device I have with the other mating half is not made by Panasonic). But I think that might be a dead-end, as the part number given seems to be a Panasonic-specific reference (much in the same vein as HP did with other manufacturers chips), and not the actual manufacturer's.
Does anyone know if Panasonic do, or did, make connectors like these? All I can find presently are that they make a small range of tiny-pitch board-to-board/mezzanine connectors.
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Presumably a classic disco light. The TO220 parts are thyristors/SCRs.
That was my initial thought, however there is no sound-to-light circuitry. The input can only switch on/off the main relay. Also, FZA Elmshorn was a division of Deutsche Post that was in charge of all the hardware for telecommunication in Germany back in the day.
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... however there is no sound-to-light circuitry.
I see triacs and some kind of filters around the BC107's
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... however there is no sound-to-light circuitry.
I see triacs and some kind of filters around the BC107's
My bad!
I had mistaken the black block for a relay, but it seems to be an input transformer with a ratio of 1:5.
So it is a "light organ" after all :)
FZA Elmshorn really threw me off here...
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Hello,
I'm trying to figure out what this is. I've tried google under just about every variant I could imagine, but no luck.
It is a blue and white cylinder, has 4 leads(1 and 3), and is marked DEG(maybe OEG), backwards UR(UL listed) and 250 ohms.
Thanks,
GB
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2 leads or 4 leads? If only 2 then a wire wound 250 ohm resistor, if 4 my guess is a reed relay.
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2 leads or 4 leads? If only 2 then a wire wound 250 ohm resistor, if 4 my guess is a reed relay.
Reed Relay, I'm almost 100% sure of that.
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(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/162722527878_/RadioShack-SPST-1-Amp-5V-Reed-Relay-Switch.jpg)
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Thank you!
Yes, it has 4 leads(as mentioned in the request..:)).
Hum... Got to figure out what I can use it for. It has been the in junk drawer for years...
GB
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It could be a reed relay inside a coil. The 250 ohms may be the coil impedance
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Thank you!
Yes, it has 4 leads(as mentioned in the request..:)).
Hum... Got to figure out what I can use it for. It has been the in junk drawer for years...
GB
Lots of uses for a reed relay, they excel at low level signal switching (I'm aware there are possibly other, better options now which is why they fell out of favour) they're usually highly reliable as well.
They're not much use as a general purpose relay as they can usually only handle low current but if you need a reed relay, then it's hard to find a substitute.
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I'm tracing out the circuit of a backlight inverter of an LCD display. Found most of the datasheets needed, but as usual I can't find data on a few SOT-23 parts, because the numbers are too short and cryptic. These ones:
D_A7W53.png dual diode SOT-23
D_S44B.png diode
Q_7KvCZ.png transistor SOT-23
Q_t064d.png transistor SOT-23
Q_W0451.png transistor SOT-23
More generally, how do you look these things up anyway? I'd rather not need to ask for help with trivia like this again.
Edit. Found:
A7W (it's a BAV99)
7KvCZ http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/7k (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/7k) - 2N7002K N-Channel MOSFET
W04 http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/w0 (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/w0) a 2N3904 equiv. Probably
This is useful: http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/xx (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/xx) - replace 'xx' with initial two alpha-num code on component. Or just start here: http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/ (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/)
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S4 SS14 Surface Mount Schottky Barrier Rectifier
https://www.vishay.com/docs/88746/ss12.pdf (https://www.vishay.com/docs/88746/ss12.pdf)
*O6 PMBS3906 PNP general purpose transistor
https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PMBS3906.pdf (https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PMBS3906.pdf)
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S4 SS14 Surface Mount Schottky Barrier Rectifier
https://www.vishay.com/docs/88746/ss12.pdf (https://www.vishay.com/docs/88746/ss12.pdf)
Not quite. The one on this PCB has dimensions (plastic body) of 4.3 x 3.5mm. Bigger than the one above.
But, doesn't matter. I'm going to just assume it's a schottky. Don't need to know exact characteristics.
Doing this because I want to use the panel as a small light table. Street-tossed PC LCD monitor. I've removed the LCD glass, leaving the backlights & diffuser. Two PCBs, one has all the power supply stuff, the other is the video control board (to be discarded.) There are two signals to the backlight inverter. One is a simple analog brightness control. The other is... something. I think some kind of CPU-alive active signal, without which the backlight won't run. The inverter control IC doesn't have any control data input, so it's an analog thing via discretes.
So, enough tracing to see what the inverter wants on that line. Or rather, how to hack it to not want anything there.
I'm about half done with the circuit.
Ha ha, I didn't even look at it with a scope yet. Would rather see the circuit first.
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4.3 x 3.5mm shuold be the SMB package. :)
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4.3 x 3.5mm shuold be the SMB package. :)
And that's the key to finding info about SMD components, correctly identify the package first. :-+
I use something like:
Google
SMD marking XYZ 'package' data pdf
Generally you find what you're looking for but sometimes need to refer to the several online SMD guides.
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... but sometimes need to refer to the several online SMD guides.
You don't happen to have a list of links to the guides you use, that you could post?
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... but sometimes need to refer to the several online SMD guides.
You don't happen to have a list of links to the guides you use, that you could post?
None in particular but some you can save for local use and others work online.
Just Google 'smd codebook' and there's a heap to try and sort through 'till you find the 'flavor' you like.
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Just Google 'smd codebook' and there's a heap to try and sort through 'till you find the 'flavor' you like.
"smd codebook" - ah, the magic keyword. Lots of good stuff, thanks! This is what my original question hoped for.
I would _never_ have thought of trying that word.
Every time I think I've got a handle on this newfangled Internet thing, I come across another proof that no, I don't.
Will I _ever_ get good at searching? Maybe not. That's what happens when the greater portion of your life went by before the Net existed.
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Just Google 'smd codebook' and there's a heap to try and sort through 'till you find the 'flavor' you like.
"smd codebook" - ah, the magic keyword. Lots of good stuff, thanks! This is what my original question hoped for.
I would _never_ have thought of trying that word.
Every time I think I've got a handle on this newfangled Internet thing, I come across another proof that no, I don't.
Will I _ever_ get good at searching? Maybe not. That's what happens when the greater portion of your life went by before the Net existed.
:-DD That was 'me' 20+ yrs ago but when I started to teach the kids how to use the 'net it was interesting to see what they thought would be good keywords to use. We all think a little differently (thank heavens) and now Google is much better than in early days however you can still get too hung up on a particular search style whereas sometimes the KISS principle works best. :)
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The irony with SMD codes... (quote from The SMD Codebook)
"SMD devices are, by their very nature, too small to carry conventional semiconductor type numbers. Instead, a somewhat arbitrary coding system has grown up, where the device package carries a simple two-or three-character ID code."
When in fact, seeing the precision already present with laser-etched numbers on the parts, they could easily write actual part numbers with at least 5 or 6 symbols.
We already use magnifying devices to look at SMD parts anyway; it doesn't matter if the numbers are too small to read by eye.
I think there's probably two factors involved in the continued use of cryptic, ambiguous codes.
1. Habit. Started using codes when numbers could only be printed on. Kept using them when laser marking rendered size irrelevant.
2. Obfuscation. Codes are something of an impediment to reverse engineering.
Or maybe the time and power needed to laser-mark is a profit-margin factor?
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On the other hand when SMD code books and Google don't produce results .....and one's getting desperate I've chucked the SMD marking into an Aliexpress search only to be rewarded with dozens of results and all of them correct ! :scared:
:)
Last one was a 7 digit display driver SOIC16 GC7137A.....couldn't find it anywhere else !
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#1 Laser etching tinier numbers would add to the cost of the parts, in an already competitive market.
#2 Devices are made to be disposable now. Nobody is meant to read those numbers.
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Not for any better reason than my own curiosity*, I'[ve recently been given a USB-Lightning cable for charging i Devices (I have the burden of having to deal with them at work) and it's obviously a rip off one, but, it passes diagnostics as a genuine Apple cable, so, I popped the end open and found a pair of SOT-23 devices, one six pin, one three pin and I'm very curious as to what they are.
SOT-23 6 pin is marked A8213 and the 3 pin is marked A19T
* Is there any better reason for doing things than curiosity?
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I've chucked the SMD marking into an Aliexpress search only to be rewarded with dozens of results and all of them correct !
Yes, but there is usually no information about the part. Only the same number you managed to read off the part. :)
They only want you to buy it, not look it up elsewhere.
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found a pair of SOT-23 devices, one six pin, one three pin and I'm very curious as to what they are.
1 minute with the Gargler tells me that A19T is a AO3401 mosfet.
A8213: possibly voltage regulator
https://www.microsemi.com/document-portal/doc_download/132261-lx8213-datasheet (https://www.microsemi.com/document-portal/doc_download/132261-lx8213-datasheet)
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Mhmm, I will admit to knowing that one already, the 6 pin one was the main interest, maybe I need to pop the other end of the cable open and look for more parts in there as I was under the impression that Apple cables were 'smart'?
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Mhmm, I will admit to knowing that one already
:wtf: Well thanks for sending us on a chase for you.
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I've chucked the SMD marking into an Aliexpress search only to be rewarded with dozens of results and all of them correct !
Yes, but there is usually no information about the part. Only the same number you managed to read off the part. :)
They only want you to buy it, not look it up elsewhere.
Yes that has been my experience too but not always.
Often, when on a wild goose chase we need glean tiny tidbits of info from wherever we can find them.
SMD codes are sometimes referred to the actual device # from which we can then find the datasheet and subsequently a source or equivalent part.
Members like gamalot have an advantage as they are capable and confident with TaoBao and that can open more doors of parts accessibility.
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I've found a few dozen of these surplus components some years ago. Normally I only buy stuff I can identify but I must have thought these were too cute.
I can't say if the marking is "Oh"4F or "Zero"4F.
Any help? Thanks.
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This maybe? https://ww2.minicircuits.com/pdfs/GALI-4F+.pdf
It’s SOT89 with markings 04F
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BINGO!
Would you explain how you were led to it?
Thanks much.
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Step 1: Identify chip package
Step 2: Query search engine for chip package + surface marking
Step 3: Identify relevant results
Step 4: Rank results
Step 5: Select most probable result
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duh
I had thought it was a SOT-223. Thanks again.
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Yes, the gazillion of different footprints can be quite a challenge :)
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Mhmm, I will admit to knowing that one already
:wtf: Well thanks for sending us on a chase for you.
Yeah, cos it took you so long to do but please feel free to ignore me in future, I'll be sure to ignore you.
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Thank you. I'm flattered.
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Not really a 'what's this' post but related. I'm planning on building an s100 computer, and motherboards are pretty expensive so I'm planning on making that first myself to reduce costs. I'm on te's samples program and was wondering if this is the right connector (no links as their site is pretty weird with those)
TE Part # 2-5530843-2
Also these Hirose connectors
https://www.hirose.com/product/en/products/CR22/CR22-100D-2.54DS%2870%29/ (https://www.hirose.com/product/en/products/CR22/CR22-100D-2.54DS%2870%29/)
https://www.hirose.com/product/en/products/CR22/CR22A-100D-2.54DS%2870%29/ (https://www.hirose.com/product/en/products/CR22/CR22A-100D-2.54DS%2870%29/)
They are probably identical but just want to be sure
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They are probably identical but just want to be sure
Y U NO CHECK manufacturer info?
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34 pin
0.95mm pin pitch
ST Microelectronics e3 Z
692263A
9913G VP
MYS 99 738
e3 = emulated EEPROM?
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Jotrin has these listed as a lot of 800 https://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/692263A (https://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/692263A)
Link to datasheet is no avail @STM though.
The e3 - emulated eeprom is emulated in onboard flash memory afaik. My guess would be an 8-bit MCU, but who knows :)
Maybe write to STM support for a datasheet?
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Mhmm, I will admit to knowing that one already, the 6 pin one was the main interest, maybe I need to pop the other end of the cable open and look for more parts in there as I was under the impression that Apple cables were 'smart'?
There should be digital logic for it to recognize it. The "mosfet" might be a mislabeled regulator (intentionally?) and the other chip holds the program. If theres no coil for converting a fet wouldn't make much sense.
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I believe the (e3) marking is related to RoHS. ST are well known for making custom parts with unobtainium datasheets, this one is no exception.
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I believe the (e3) marking is related to RoHS. ST are well known for making custom parts with unobtainium datasheets, this one is no exception.
So it is. Tin finish.
http://www.ti.com/support-quality/environmental-info/lead-free/lead-free-conversion.html (http://www.ti.com/support-quality/environmental-info/lead-free/lead-free-conversion.html)
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Matsushita
5E592004 Iss. 1
740U 3C 49
(28 pin)
It came from a fridge thermostat. Would be nice if I could adapt the board to non-fridge purposes.
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The 5V Part in the power supply of my dell u3011t LCD is dead, i guess the 24V part which is it's own power supply on the same pcb does still work but i did not try that. There is an enable line which switches on the 24V part.
It looks like the chip that is shown on the attached pictures is dead, there is a small crack on the bottom of the case. I can't see any markings on this chip :-(
The 5V PSU is rated for 6.5A Pins 7-12 are connected to GND Pin 6 is connected to the primary side of the transformer
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I found the markings on the chip, a microscope helps a lot, it is a TOP264-271 Chip
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/topjx_family_datasheet-11851.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/topjx_family_datasheet-11851.pdf)
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Matsushita
5E592004 Iss. 1
740U 3C 49
(28 pin)
It came from a fridge thermostat. Would be nice if I could adapt the board to non-fridge purposes.
Almost certainly a mask ROM/OTP microcontroller. I remember seeing a reference to a 5E5* type part numbering pattern for a Japanese MCU series before, but I can't seem to find which one now.
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I don't expect an exact part identification, but I wonder what the purpose of the chip near the SD card holder is.
This is the back side of the main PCB in a Canon PowerShot G9. When assembled, the mystery chip is facing the shielding over the battery compartment. The chip is mounted in a clear QFN package, and there's a big black area that looks suspiciously like a light sensor. Which doesn't make any sense given the ICs location.
The service manual that I found didn't include the schematic but only a PCB diagrams, identifying the chip as IC502. In the same group of designators, there are only a few passives, Zener diode, (dual) transistor and an LDO.
Having taken apart many point & shoot cameras, I'm pretty good at identifying the purpose of the main chips. But this one leaves me puzzled.
Any guesses?
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That is odd, it does look like some kind of light sensor and of cpourse transparent package.
Is it possible there's a light pipe to it built into the case?
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I guess I would follow the traces and see what it's connected to.
Are there any discernible characters on the chip die?
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No light pipe, unless I lost it during disassembly. It would have to be pretty big and intricate to reach the IC.
Unfortunately, no letters or numbers visible at the resolution I can get out of my stereo microscope. If anyone in the Seattle area with a better microscope wants to assist, PM me.
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Half of it looks like digital logic interfacing to something on the other side (ADC/DAC?). That does look like a sensor. Have you identified all the drivers for the ports on the board. If it's not one of those I'd wager it's a self contained infrared camera watching for battery overheat. Stupidly overcomplicated if so. ::)
EDIT: In the tiny chance that for some reason there's an EPROM in there...don't expose it to UV. :-BROKE
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0Q0500.... Here are a couple of never "seen befores" (for me).... 24 pin DIP i can only imagine the code is custom to equipment they belong in and masked RAM or a resistor network .... They were in a bag of 1980s era spares components found during a dumpster diving moment. Mr Google has no info which is actually the first time i have not found an olde ic .pdf!
Serious mystery that's all, not the end of the day but someone may have come across the device.
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Well, what better than to find just a little bit more out yourself....
This was a random strip of paper in the bag of 'dead' parts rescued to be hoarded... (i hope not) i found recently while dumpster diving...
The 0Q0500 is a "Bit Reduktion ic"... it seems.... hmmmm ??? The long spares code looks very Philips too.... That throws up more questions like era, and what could possibly have used a thing like this? Love to see a data sheet....
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About that clear QFN30 IC on the camera --- I'm almost certain I've seen something like it before, although I don't think I figured it out either; it looks more like the light sensors used for tamperproof hardware security, which erase keys etc. when the device is opened...
"Bit reduktion" sounds like parallel-to-serial conversion, and there's a few ICs for that purpose in DIP-24, so they might just be custom-labeled CD4034s or 74674s.
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I got a Zener diode that is marked 120B· or I20B· it is also possible that it is l120B· i'm not sure :-( does someone know this marking? It might be a 120V Zener diode but i'm not sure...
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0Q0500.... Here are a couple of never "seen befores" (for me).... 24 pin DIP i can only imagine the code is custom to equipment they belong in and masked RAM or a resistor network .... They were in a bag of 1980s era spares components found during a dumpster diving moment. Mr Google has no info which is actually the first time i have not found an olde ic .pdf!
Serious mystery that's all, not the end of the day but someone may have come across the device.
0Q... sounds like proprietary ICs made by Philips for e.g. Fluke/Philips scopes.
This image shows a Fluke scope stuffed with the proprietary ICs:
(https://cache.amobbs.com/bbs_upload782111/files_14/ourdev_440492.jpg)
However, your's look unusual in that they are not clearly identifiable as a Philips manufactured part.
The part no. is indeed the so called "12NC" format as used by Philips.
The "k" in reduktion would suggest perhaps a German manufactured IC, I'm pretty sure the Dutch or overseas factories would have spelled the word as "reduction".
"Bit reduktion" sounds like parallel-to-serial conversion, and there's a few ICs for that purpose in DIP-24, so they might just be custom-labeled CD4034s or 74674s.
Well, the lower line on the tag shows "P-SER/0394". So a parallel to serial converter produced week 3 of 1994?
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Any one got a clue on this one?
I've been meaning to make a copy of this RS485 board for a Drews 5310, but I can't figure out what the two SO8 in the middle are.
They are labeled 600-712 and 600-633.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=456223;image)
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Any one got a clue on this one?
I've been meaning to make a copy of this RS485 board for a Drews 5310, but I can't figure out what the two SO8 in the middle are.
They are labeled 600-712 and 600-633.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=456223;image)
HCPL0600
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/HCPL0639-D.pdf (http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/HCPL0639-D.pdf)
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Could be HCPL0600 Optocouplers for isolation and level shifting:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/OPTOCOUPLER-SMD-LOGIC-item-HCPL-0600_627580519.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.257.1e83794dQy98p5 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/OPTOCOUPLER-SMD-LOGIC-item-HCPL-0600_627580519.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.257.1e83794dQy98p5)
https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/149/HCPL0600-1010465.pdf (https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/149/HCPL0600-1010465.pdf)
Edit: Looks like gamalot beat me to it! :)
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That was quick :P
Looks about right. Thanks a bunch both of you :-+
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Hi, does anyone have a clue what device this is, or what an equivalent might be? It's from a Sony RCP1500 camera remote control panel and is from the PSU section. It's a voltage regulator, but doesn't conform to any pinout for other 10-pin SON regulators that I can find.
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Hi, does anyone have a clue what device this is, or what an equivalent might be? It's from a Sony RCP1500 camera remote control panel and is from the PSU section. It's a voltage regulator, but doesn't conform to any pinout for other 10-pin SON regulators that I can find.
TPS62020DRCR
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps62020.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps62020.pdf)
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Thanks for that. Could you share how you figured that out? There is another one on the board that I also can't identify... picture attached. All help appreciated.
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Thanks for that. Could you share how you figured that out? There is another one on the board that I also can't identify... picture attached. All help appreciated.
LT3481EDD
http://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/3481fc.pdf (http://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/3481fc.pdf)
I found them by searching silk screen on Taobao.com :)
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manufacturers also have their own lookup tools.
http://www.ti.com/packaging/docs/partlookup.tsp (http://www.ti.com/packaging/docs/partlookup.tsp)
https://www.nxp.com/packages (https://www.nxp.com/packages)
...
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This is the back side of the main PCB in a Canon PowerShot G9. When assembled, the mystery chip is facing the shielding over the battery compartment. The chip is mounted in a clear QFN package, and there's a big black area that looks suspiciously like a light sensor. Which doesn't make any sense given the ICs location.
...
Any guesses?
Expensive looking package. Someone thought whatever it does, was important enough to spend extra money.
My guess would be that it's a crypto chip, with an 'erase keys if camera opened' tripwire. In which case that black square is not a light sensor; rather a solar cell, that gives enough power under room light to drive the erase circuit.
Now, why would there be a secret-key crypto chip in a consumer camera?
I have a much simpler question.
The tag strip of custom wire-wound resistors are from an old Shimadzu QV-50 Spectrophotometer. One of them has been replaced with a multi-turn pot, presumably because the original resistor failed.
I have two of these instruments, from the same source; on the other unit these resistors are all original.
The question: These wire resistors (1st pic) use a wire with low temperature coefficient, yes?
So, how would I go about constructing a proper replacement, with the right temp coefficient?
The trimmer is set to 980 ohms, and I could measure the hopefully still good resistor on the other unit.
Oddly enough, only some of these have anything written on the little slips of protective paper, and there's only loose correspondence between the written numbers and actual values. For instance one marked "10" is 8.9K.
Incidentally, I've had zero luck finding any kind or user or service manual for the QV-50. Shimadzu didn't reply to a query.
All I found were a few advertisements in old magazines from the 1960s.
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THz, that's just cotton covered magnet wire if I'm not mistaken. I'd be surprised if it's still available.
Temp stable resistances were often wound from Constantan, a wire similar to nichrome.
If one will power up it might be a good idea to measure the current and voltage across it and let that guide your choice of replacement resistance wire.
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THz, that's just cotton covered magnet wire if I'm not mistaken. I'd be surprised if it's still available.
Given what the instrument is, what it probably cost new, and that these resistors range from 500 R to 5K, and that the circuit is a precision resistive bridge to measure glass photodiode current by nulling, I very much doubt they are ordinary magnet wire.
Temp stable resistances were often wound from Constantan, a wire similar to nichrome.
Ah! Constantin. Yes, thanks, that's the word I couldn't remember. Next question is whether that wire in any suitable form is still available. Having the keyword helps.
If one will power up it might be a good idea to measure the current and voltage across it and let that guide your choice of replacement resistance wire.
Actually due to the circuit arrangement, with stuff unplugged all these resistors have at least one end isolated, so can be measured directly. Determining their values is not a problem. And I guess I can hot air them while measuring, to roughly estimate temp coeff. to see if it's some ordinary wire or something like Constantin.
"See if it will power up" - Heh. The entire thing runs on two D cells. Directly. Though the photocell circuit actually has some electronics, the rest is ultra simple. Except for being a tangle of connectors and a multi-pole, multi-position range & mode switch, that makes converting my traced circuit mess into a sensible schematic, non-trivial.
Today's unrelated question: does anyone have data on these old hockey-puck SCRs? (See pics)
I was just given three SCR & inductor modules. Two of the SCRs are marked westinghouse T920100803DW 7526.
The third one looks physically identical but is marked PSI 1000 10 MJA 2.
The round end contact faces are 44mm dia.
I'm hoping to find data sheets, mainly for curiosity. Judging by the medium degree of surface corrosion they are probably quite old, so nothing special specs-wise.
Slight bummer: The one I took out of the tensioning frame to clean, the number rubbed off the ceramic with the very first light wipe. It's apparently just black ink on glass-smooth ceramic, as opposed to glaze baked onto the ceramic. Dammit.
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The datecode on that SCR is 26th week 1975. It's a 1kV, 800A, 250us 200mA version.
Look at page 354 of this: https://archive.org/download/bitsavers_westinghouinghousePowerSemiconductorUsersManualand_67287821/1978_Westinghouse_Power_Semiconductor_Users_Manual_and_Data_Book.pdf
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THz, that's just cotton covered magnet wire if I'm not mistaken. I'd be surprised if it's still available.
Given what the instrument is, what it probably cost new, and that these resistors range from 500 R to 5K, and that the circuit is a precision Wien bridge, I very much doubt they are ordinary magnet wire.
Temp stable resistances were often wound from Constantan, a wire similar to nichrome.
Ah! Constantin. Yes, thanks, that's the word I couldn't remember. Next question is whether that wire in any suitable form is still available. Having the keyword helps.
If one will power up it might be a good idea to measure the current and voltage across it and let that guide your choice of replacement resistance wire.
Actually due to the circuit arrangement, with stuff unplugged all these resistors have at least one end isolated, so can be measured directly. Determining their values is not a problem. And I guess I can hot air them while measuring, to roughly estimate temp coeff. to see if it's some ordinary wire or something like Constantin.
"See if it will power up" - Heh. The entire thing runs on two D cells. Directly. Though the photocell circuit actually has some electronics, the rest is ultra simple. Except for being a tangle of connectors and a multi-pole, multi-position range & mode switch, that makes converting my traced circuit mess into a sensible schematic, non-trivial.
Wiki has a bit about Constantan and it's cousin Manganin
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constantan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manganin
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The datecode on that SCR is 26th week 1975. It's a 1kV, 800A, 250us 200mA version.
Look at page 354 of this: https://archive.org/download/bitsavers_westinghouinghousePowerSemiconductorUsersManualand_67287821/1978_Westinghouse_Power_Semiconductor_Users_Manual_and_Data_Book.pdf
Holy carp.
That's a fascinating data book too, thanks.
Wish I could have seen whatever 'thing' these inductor-SCR assembies came out of.
It's so typical, that whoever disassembled it just cut off the firing leads short of the original ring lugs. Lazy SOBs.
Now, to rig up some kind of test circuit to at least see if they are functional at a small fraction of their rating.
The clamping brackets have an interesting integral tension indicator.
A thin indicator bar is rigidly attached to one end of a thick spring tensioning bar. As the spring tensioner gets bowed by applied force, notches at the other end of the indicator bar line up with the end of the tensioner bar.
1st pic shows a tensioned set, 2nd pic one with no tension.
Edit to add: 3rd pic shows the dome-pivot in the central spacer post. Resulting in equal pressure distribution across the SCR puck faces, regardless of unequal screw-down of the tensioning nuts.
2nd edit: Hmm. There's that date bug in Advanced Renamer utility again. Every now and then it gets the 'date photo taken' wrong. Those pics should all be named 20180706_whatever... Sigh. Bug fix hunting time.
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So I bought a bag full of old components predominantly out of GDR production. Most of it I could identify but there is this connector I can't make heads or tails of it and what it was used for.
It has a 5-pin DIN style connector on top and another square, spring loaded connector beneath it. The second connector has a removable plastic cover.
The ruler is in centimetres.
(http://haraldkraft.org/pics/mystery_connector/front_w_cover.jpg) (http://haraldkraft.org/pics/mystery_connector/front_wo_cover.jpg)
(http://haraldkraft.org/pics/mystery_connector/side.jpg) (http://haraldkraft.org/pics/mystery_connector/back.jpg)
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I don't think the red part is a connector at all. It's more likely a DPDT pushbutton switch. Momentary, unless you tell us it has a latching action. Perhaps it's meant to be used as a lid switch for whatever case it's mounted on? In which case the plastic bit is just a shipping item to keep the parts together.
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That 5 pin DIN connector was used for headphones (e.g. Philips) some 40 years ago.
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I don't think the red part is a connector at all. It's more likely a DPDT pushbutton switch. Momentary, unless you tell us it has a latching action. Perhaps it's meant to be used as a lid switch for whatever case it's mounted on? In which case the plastic bit is just a shipping item to keep the parts together.
There are always 4 of the six pins of the lower connector commoned together. Which ones depends on if its pushed in or not. It is momentary. (see picture) Both connectors are positively clipped/moulded into the red plastic casing and is doesn't look like the are meant to be removed from it.
(http://haraldkraft.org/pics/mystery_connector/front_wo_cover_arrows.jpg)
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So there you go: inserting the headphone plug switches the speakers off :)
I remember these plugs had a little metal square missing on one side, so you could either insert it to switch the speakers off or reversed to keep them on.
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So there you go: inserting the headphone plug switches the speakers off :)
I remember these plugs had a little metal square missing on one side, so you could either insert it to switch the speakers off or reversed to keep them on.
That makes sense. I actually like the way they did it. It's to be quite robust although switch the speakers on or off that way probably caused a lot of crackling and scratching.
I think these are for stereo systems since the left and right side are symmetrical. They are also only commoned together in pair and not all four of them, which kinda makes sense for stereo audio. ;)
The Cover seems to be protection only as it doesn't push the switch in far enough to engage it.
Thanks for your help.
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Blew up a chinese 24V to 12V 40A converter (but eventually managed to fix it with unconventional parts - see http://www.quan-diy.com/misc/charger/se460.htm (http://www.quan-diy.com/misc/charger/se460.htm) if interested) but is wondering what half bridge driver they were using.
It is a DIP8 device marked "3211P", has a single input, high side and low side outputs.
Googling doesn't reveal much info most results produced drivers from LT and IR and other random stuff.
It is used in a synchronous rectified buck converter with a TL494 doing the PWM duties.
Tracing the PCB I was able to identify which pins do what (see 3rd pic)
pin# - my label - description
1 - V+ - low side gate supply voltage
2 - IN - control input
3 - GND - low side negative/common
4 - OL - low side output, low side mosfet gate
5 - NC - not connected in circuit
6 - VL - negative of bootstrap supply, source of high side mosfet, connected to inductor input
7 - OH - high side output, high side mosfet gate
8 - V+H - bootstrap supply +, supply for high side mosfet driver
Thanks in advance.
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IMP3211 (datasheet in Chinese) :)
http://www.icdemi.com/manual/IMP3211.pdf (http://www.icdemi.com/manual/IMP3211.pdf)
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IMP3211 (datasheet in Chinese) :)
http://www.icdemi.com/manual/IMP3211.pdf (http://www.icdemi.com/manual/IMP3211.pdf)
Perfect. Thank you!
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So Im completely stumped as to what this part is, mainly because I cant measure it - likely I killed it while extracting the pot from around it with 300c from my heat gun. I assume it's a cap but as it's dead (not even continuity) I cant get any readings out of it at all - to make matters worse, there are no visible marking of any kind anywhere on it.
(https://i.imgur.com/g54xv7bl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d8VlqZMl.jpg)
Any ideas?
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32.768 kHz crystal for the RTC in that module.
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32.768 kHz crystal for the RTC in that module.
Legend, I couldnt find that info anywhere. :-+
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Potted battery, looks like a Dallas timekeeper ( now a Maxim part), and they almost always had a clock in them along with the RAM, and those are almost always 32.768kHz in that case, being the most popular value. Only rarely are they other frequencies, but if it was a RTC it will always be the 32768Hz to divide down easily to 1Hz
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Potted battery, looks like a Dallas timekeeper ( now a Maxim part), and they almost always had a clock in them along with the RAM, and those are almost always 32.768kHz in that case, being the most popular value. Only rarely are they other frequencies, but if it was a RTC it will always be the 32768Hz to divide down easily to 1Hz
Cheers, knowing what that is has allowed me to reverse engineer it properly. :-+
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Holy carp.
Wish I could have seen whatever 'thing' these inductor-SCR assembies came out of.
I remember seeing these in an old Exide model 3180 ferro-resonant 480/277 volt 3 phase 180KW UPS. It was huge, heavy, inefficient and very loud. It was scrapped years ago even though it still worked due to inefficiencies and maintenance of an obsolete system.
Maybe the reason you have three of these is that somebody removed them from some old UPS and thought they would get around to playing with them someday [it happens to all of us].
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This thread is slow and I got a new cheap microscope, so...
Found a few of these on the dollar cart and had no idea what they were, although the first picture makes me think they might be antennas.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=489314;image)
(Those are millimeters)
Anybody know?
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http://www.richardsonrfpd.com/Pages/Product-Details.aspx?productId=921206 (http://www.richardsonrfpd.com/Pages/Product-Details.aspx?productId=921206)
Does not look as clean as the genuine part on the site images though.
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(http://www.richardsonrfpd.com/resources/RellImages/SYS_48/FR05-S1-N-0-102.jpg)
A fractal wifi antenna. Look like a PCB with many many layers. Fascinating. I wonder what an xray would look like.
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Looks like FR-4 with a top layer and vias to pads on a bottom layer. Do you think there are middle layers?
I'd like to cut one up but don't have a lot of tool options. Suggestions?
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Looks like FR-4 with a top layer and vias to pads on a bottom layer. Do you think there are middle layers?
I'd like to cut one up but don't have a lot of tool options. Suggestions?
Put it in a toaster oven on high for a long time and maybe it will delaminate.
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This thread is slow and I got a new cheap microscope, so...
Found a few of these on the dollar cart and had no idea what they were, although the first picture makes me think they might be antennas.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=489314;image)
(Those are millimeters)
Anybody know?
That pattern on the surface curiously looks like Hilbert's curve (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hilbert_curve), a fractal pattern, *very* interesting.
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They can be 3D too.
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Thanks timelessbeing. On the other hand I'm wondering... Wouldn't those closely coupled branches counter each other in a so-tight 3D assembly? I'm curious how [efficiently] the energy is radiated from those structures. I'm expecting the efficiency of such an antenna to be from slightly to tremendously reduced due to part of the radiated energy cancelling out the radiation from other loops in the assembly — e.g. the more concentrated the Hilbert loops, the more losses... if I'm making sense. Can anyone shed some light on this?
EDIT: There is indeed a paper on the topic (https://www.hindawi.com/journals/ijap/2012/687256/) but I need some assistance putting it all together ;D .
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https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/11d1/9668fe46e2ac7a8c0a33f80ce5b6a4683aec.pdf
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https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/11d1/9668fe46e2ac7a8c0a33f80ce5b6a4683aec.pdf
Well, thanks but that's not really answering my question. I was paying attention to the fact that in this kind of structure you have alternating clockwise and counter-clockwise "loops". I'm definitely no expert in antenna theory but I'd intuitively expect such an alternating pattern to be less efficient in radiating than a single loop for instance. I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong... which is exactly what I asked for, if you see what I mean. So can anybody explain, in layman terms if my deduction is correct or what I've missed otherwise?
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Well, thanks but that's not really answering my question. I was paying attention to the fact that in this kind of structure you have alternating clockwise and counter-clockwise "loops". I'm definitely no expert in antenna theory but I'd intuitively expect such an alternating pattern to be less efficient in radiating than a single loop for instance. I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong... which is exactly what I asked for, if you see what I mean. So can anybody explain, in layman terms if my deduction is correct or what I've missed otherwise?
I don't know much and I'm trying to grasp this. The paper (and the supplied figure) seems to say that only the tiny vertcal monopole is the radiating antenna while the fractal part is the antenna's resonating load.
So I think you're correct that the squiggles' radiation cancel out but they also induct to create a reactive impedance providing resonance.
It's still pretty opaque to me.
Thanks Timelessbeing. You've made this very interesting.
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Thanks scuzzyTerminator.
That's probably something to ask Shahriar from the Signal Path Youtube channel :-+.
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Crack it open and lets see what's inside! Use whatever you've got ... chisel, knife, snips ... percussive maintenance.
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Hi everyone, I kind of want to know what this chip is. As far as I know it's led driver, it's from cheap led vehicle mounted (12-24v) working spot light. It has this annoying quirk that I can get maximum light output at exactly 12.5V. Anything less equals less light output, anything more means less light output. Chip marking are 70DD and 1718 and package is soic8. If you want I can provide photos or schematic that I managed to make.
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Crack it open and lets see what's inside! Use whatever you've got ... chisel, knife, snips ... percussive maintenance.
More advanced PCB deconstruction techniques: https://www.google.com/search?q=joe+grand+pcb+reverse+engineering (https://www.google.com/search?q=joe+grand+pcb+reverse+engineering)
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I just picked up a load of chips and stuff like that, Some I can find out what they do on parts.io but no idea on how to offload them as I have no use for them.
Like a 2KG Bag of PIC12C508P-04 Micro Controllers :-//
20 Zilog Z8430ADS :palm:
and so much more I have no idea WTF to do with them!
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I think the 150RG are 150 ohm resistor networks. The others can be found easily on Google.
The 8085s are probably worth quite a bit...
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Glue them dead bug style to a piece of wood and use it as a boot scraper.
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Wow! That's a nice vintage pack that you have there!
Glue them dead bug style to a piece of wood and use it as a boot scraper.
:-DD
______
12C508: PIC microcontroller Status: Not Recommended for new designs
(no shit Sherlock? :-D)
27C2001: 1Mbit as 128K x 8bits EPROM (UV erasable)
A bunch of Z80A microprocessors
8259: Interrupt Controller for (old) Intel architectures, like PC-AT
µA324: long before it was called LM324
MCM6810: 128 x 8-bit RAM
MCM60L64: 8K x 8-bit SRAM
6850: Serial interface (RS232)
RS 140-013: maybe a quad op-amp, 14pins (resistor array seems unlikely in packs of 7)
Not that I'd be a buyer but do you plan on selling those? I admire the whole bag of Microchip PIC's ;D .
EDIT: On a second thought, maybe Fran Blanche would be interested in getting some as she has very nice & didactic tutorials on vintage technology. Maybe you can just ask her if you wonder what to do. Just suggesting.
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14-pin resistor network is very common
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The resistor array just has a RS house number on it
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/resistor-networks/0140013/
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The resistor array just has a RS house number on it
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/resistor-networks/0140013/
Good find. Date code appears to be 1978. RS has apparently been around since 1937. :o
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Yep, Radiospares / RS has been around a while , there was some recent marketing ploy a year or so ago celebrating some anniversary.
House numbers can be annoying especially when trying to manage BoM's ,
You get them popping up all over, e.g. the NTExxxx range of overpriced equivalents , Element14/newark/farnell with the MCxxxxx range, HP equipment usually have normal components but marked with xxxx-xxxx partnumbers, General Electric use diodes on their 40yr old PCB's labelled "A14P" that is just a 1n5061. Components intended for military or aircraft use will sometimes have cage codes or JAN numbers.
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The resistor array just has a RS house number on it
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/resistor-networks/0140013/
Indeed, my bad (d'oh!) :palm:
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I'd like to find a manufacturer and MPN for a tactile switch that looks like the following.
It's a SPST momentary button, measures about 4mm x 3mm x 2mm, has only two SMD pads, and it has no "pillars" that go into PCB holes underneath.
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I'd like to find a manufacturer and MPN for a tactile switch that looks like the following.
It's a SPST momentary button, measures about 4mm x 3mm x 2mm, has only two SMD pads, and it has no "pillars" that go into PCB holes underneath.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=tactile+switch+micro+smd&ia=images
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[edit]
Ok , I've bought a similar switch before ,The C&K PTS820 https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/pts820-1382642.pdf
some of the variants have pegs , some do not , I have one without pegs, PTS820J25KSMTR , it has a blue button https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK/PTS820J25KSMTRLFS?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiw33jyUWT7Ti864j3IB0%2fRHgV%252baQPTgLqT2jafLvvInQ%3d%3d
CAUTION , many of these SMD switches (the PTS820 included) have parts of the metal case going to PCB level, so if you use wide pads , you will short to the metal case. (Discovered this the hard way!)
[edit] ---- not this one--- the KMR6 has no mounting pillars, but the button isn't round https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/kmr6-947828.pdf (looks like a 4 pad PLCC4 pad arrangement though)
CAUTION , many of these SMD switches have parts of the metal case going to PCB level, so if you use wide pads , you will short to the metal case. (Discovered this the hard way!)
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Hi!
Can you please identify this little RF LNA transistor? I know it is some pretty common type from back then, I even knew the part number but forgot it. Cannot find it anymore.
It is a small four legged ceramic package marked "101", same size as a typical RF MMIC amplifier like ERA-5.
Thanks a lot
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After some more intensive digging, I think it may be ATF-10136. Is it possible? The datasheet does not state the package marking.
https://www.qsl.net/n9zia/trans/ATF10136.pdf (https://www.qsl.net/n9zia/trans/ATF10136.pdf)
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-10pcs-lot-ATF-10136-screen-signal-amplifier-101-cross-0-5-12GHZ-new-original/32800024346.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-10pcs-lot-ATF-10136-screen-signal-amplifier-101-cross-0-5-12GHZ-new-original/32800024346.html)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-3296W-50K-Ohm-Trimpot-Trimmer-Potentiometer-3296W-503/32814408008.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-3296W-50K-Ohm-Trimpot-Trimmer-Potentiometer-3296W-503/32814408008.html)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ATF-10136-0-5-12GHz-Agilent-Low-Noise-GaAs-FET-x3pcs-NF-0-5dB-RF-LN-Amp-/310383898607 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ATF-10136-0-5-12GHz-Agilent-Low-Noise-GaAs-FET-x3pcs-NF-0-5dB-RF-LN-Amp-/310383898607)
http://www.912688.com/supply/297520572.html (http://www.912688.com/supply/297520572.html)
Enough proof?
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After some more intensive digging, I think it may be ATF-10136. Is it possible? The datasheet does not state the package marking.
https://www.qsl.net/n9zia/trans/ATF10136.pdf (https://www.qsl.net/n9zia/trans/ATF10136.pdf)
On page 3.
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Oh god :palm:
I did not notice that. I have just skimmed through and searched for "marking" as usual. My bad, sorry.
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I received two pieces of this devices from a friend and I'm really curious to know what it is. Can anyone help me identifying those, please?
It is apparently soviet device, made in autumn 1975, that's all I can tell. SD adapter included for scale.
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Oh god :palm:
I did not notice that. I have just skimmed through and searched for "marking" as usual. My bad, sorry.
I do exactly the same thing, search by keyword "marking" in datasheets. ;D
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I received two pieces of this devices from a friend and I'm really curious to know what it is. Can anyone help me identifying those, please?
It is apparently soviet device, made in autumn 1975, that's all I can tell. SD adapter included for scale.
They appear to be ICs, the soviets made some weird stuff.
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They appear to be ICs, the soviets made some weird stuff.
Yep, they made a lot of weird stuff. I cut my teeth on electronics stuff made on eastern side of iron curtain.
Thanks for your guess; looks like we have similar thoughts. That packaging looks phenolic-resin-ish, perhaps some hybrid stuff? My other guess is passive network. I'll wait for a while and then perform measurement and vivisection of the object.
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I stumbled on these sorting through my stash before moving, I'd be interested in any information on the STC microwave sources.
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Could someone name the components on here please, u want to try and build one of these but I don't know what the components are please help me.
Thank you
Rob(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/f036a39d057dcea75206e9e0f38ceb2f.jpg)
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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Well, the most that can be done with the photograph that does not show any part numbers (at least I couldn't see them) is to go with what it is usually used in such designs: the large IC is a preprogrammed microcontroller (which you will probably never be able to obtain the programmed firmware), the bottom left part is a voltage regulator (most probably a LM1117 or something like that), the top larger black part above the microcontrollee is a crystal oscillator and all the six pin parts are drivers or transistor pairs (probably MOSFETs).
Assuming that you didn't design this to be asking such question, I think a much fairer scenario is to either reward who designed this by buying their product or try and create your own product instead, don't you agree?
https://www.ghoztlighting.com/product/ledsequencer/ (https://www.ghoztlighting.com/product/ledsequencer/)
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Hi All, are these IDC wire-to-board Connectors? I cant find a consistent name for them
(https://d21d43znxvr466.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/CN-ID-BB10.jpg)
https://protostack.com.au/shop/connectors/idc/10-pin-idc-ribbon-connector-breadboard-friendly/
I'm looking for a source for 28 Pin DIPP versions suitable for old ROM Sockets for a Clock Board project - I've created a replacement for the old Tandy SmartWatch modules with a replaceable CR1632 lithium cell for the EX models (which never worked with the OEM units due the location and height). A few folk who own other models want a version of my adapter for their systems (the Originals have potted batteries and are mostly dead) - I was hoping I could use a ribbon cable adapter solution for the other systems.
Adapter with ROM Bios Chip Installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/Mro3zopl.jpg)
Inserted into ROM Bios Socket on an EX:
(https://i.imgur.com/qlKr58nl.jpg)
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I understand buying their components but when they charge 250 for it. Just hard to justify. I'll just write code to an Arduino. Was just trying to get an idea of what the chipset was.
Could someone name the components on here please, u want to try and build one of these but I don't know what the components are please help me.
Thank you
Rob(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/f036a39d057dcea75206e9e0f38ceb2f.jpg)
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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We simply can't tell you what we can't see. You haven't provided a picture of sufficient resolution to read any chip markings. Nor did you transcribe them for us. The general answer you already got is about as good as it gets from those pictures.
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It's probably a 44-pin PIC. The 6-pin programming header with GND on pin 3 and the two data/clock lines on 4 and 5 strongly suggest it.
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Help to recognize lcd use in LOGIK model L3DAB12
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It's probably a 44-pin PIC. The 6-pin programming header with GND on pin 3 and the two data/clock lines on 4 and 5 strongly suggest it.
It's a PIC24F32KA304 :)
(https://www.ghoztlighting.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/28chan-1.jpg)
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I'm trying to figure out the part number on this please guys so that I can get another one. It seems there maybe letters missing at the start?
It's on the output side of a Dyson Rechargeable vacuums charger.. Anyone know what it is please.
One page lead me to an Analogue Devices part but the package type was wrong.
It's DIP8 package however it only has 7 legs. Leg 6 is not present and legs 7+8 are joined together.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kE1y8e/20181004_161817.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nuKUEK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mOtxZK/20181004_170530.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dXCD8e)
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LD7904 https://www.promelec.ru/pdf/LD7904JGP7.pdf (https://www.promelec.ru/pdf/LD7904JGP7.pdf)
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Thanks very much mate, your a star :-+
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I just picked up a load of chips and stuff like that, Some I can find out what they do on parts.io but no idea on how to offload them as I have no use for them.
Like a 2KG Bag of PIC12C508P-04 Micro Controllers :-//
20 Zilog Z8430ADS :palm:
12C508: PIC microcontroller
Make a hardware neural net, like NeuroBytes?
27C2001: 1Mbit as 128K x 8bits EPROM (UV erasable)
You can use these as terrible solar cells. Make an impractical solar panel. Or put some known data pattern on them, and expose them to various kinds and doses of radiation as a longevity experiment.
A bunch of Z80A microprocessors
Sell them individually to people restoring old computers, arcade machines, and industrial gear?
8259: Interrupt Controller for (old) Intel architectures, like PC-AT
µA324: long before it was called LM324
…
MCM6810: 128 x 8-bit RAM
MCM60L64: 8K x 8-bit SRAM
Use them for processing? Make an array of rams, connect the data output back into the address input, and fill with specially designed patterns (read: program your new processor). Look up sdramThing—that guy made a logic analyzer with output to a large LCD panel out of ram.
6850: Serial interface (RS232)
RS 140-013: maybe a quad op-amp, 14pins (resistor array seems unlikely in packs of 7)
…
EDIT: On a second thought, maybe Fran Blanche would be interested in getting some as she has very nice & didactic tutorials on vintage technology. Maybe you can just ask her if you wonder what to do. Just suggesting.
I doubt she'd want all of them. Maybe one to a few of each. Good idea though. Edit: Probably not while she's dealing with being evicted.
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I finally have something to ask the oracles about. (I was planning to ask about a chip that looked like a current sensor, but that disappeared before I could.)
This device appears to be some kind of light sensor. It has no markings that I can see. I found it on the floor by an electronics recycling bin that people look through for parts. The chip and two capacitors are mounted on FPC, which is mounted on a stamped (?) aluminium piece, which has some glue on the back. It's a hard, white, translucent glue that I've seen in optics before.
From the top, with the loose ends of the FPC facing me and the sensor facing up, the traces go like this: 1 narrow, 2 wide, 7 narrow on the left; 6 narrow on the right. One capacitor is across the two wide traces (so those are likely power and ground) and the other capacitor (the angled one) is from one of the wide traces (probably ground) to a trace that goes under the chip. The one narrow trace on its own wraps around to the other side of the chip. The loose ends have some markings as if they're inserted into connectors that far, but no copper is exposed, and the edge appears to be torn—it's not quite straight and square on either side.
Pictures 1–3 show it on some painter's tape. Picture 4 shows it on a USB standard-A plug for scale. Picture 5 was taken with a USB microscope.
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I agree, it's a BGA light sensor. No idea of the application, however.
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Optical detector for a DVD or CDROM drive, the bit used to recover the data from the reflected light.
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I suspected that due to the construction, but I've never seen one quite like this in my disassemblies. I'll have to keep my eyes open for them.
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No idea what this is although I looked, I guess memory or something related to a uP
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This is the first time that the datecode actually is the product code ;D
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmx9830.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmx9830.pdf)
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It has a National Semiconductor logo. They didn't have modern memory chips in such housings AFAIR, but it is maybe something like a LVDS / HDMI / SerDes chip. They also did a lot of custom chips for e.g. Tektronix.
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This is the first time that the datecode actually is the product code ;D
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmx9830.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmx9830.pdf)
:palm: I didn't even look
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Anyone know what this is? It is from a 3.3V fan motor PCB which was probably damaged by applying a higher supply voltage.
It appears to have an H bridge output since there is only 2 wires coming out of the windings (no center tap) and uses an external 4 pin hall effect sensor.
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Anyone know what this is? It is from a 3.3V fan motor PCB which was probably damaged by applying a higher supply voltage.
It appears to have an H bridge output since there is only 2 wires coming out of the windings (no center tap) and uses an external 4 pin hall effect sensor.
Maybe a 8-pin fan motor driver like BH6789FVM-TR
https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=H678&sField=2 (https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=H678&sField=2)
https://www.avnet.com/shop/us/products/rohm/bh6789fvm-tr-3074457345627114607?CMP=EMA_FindChips_inventoryfeed_VSE?aka_re=1 (https://www.avnet.com/shop/us/products/rohm/bh6789fvm-tr-3074457345627114607?CMP=EMA_FindChips_inventoryfeed_VSE?aka_re=1)
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Anyone know what this is? It is from a 3.3V fan motor PCB which was probably damaged by applying a higher supply voltage.
It appears to have an H bridge output since there is only 2 wires coming out of the windings (no center tap) and uses an external 4 pin hall effect sensor.
Maybe a 8-pin fan motor driver like BH6789FVM-TR
https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=H678&sField=2 (https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=H678&sField=2)
https://www.avnet.com/shop/us/products/rohm/bh6789fvm-tr-3074457345627114607?CMP=EMA_FindChips_inventoryfeed_VSE?aka_re=1 (https://www.avnet.com/shop/us/products/rohm/bh6789fvm-tr-3074457345627114607?CMP=EMA_FindChips_inventoryfeed_VSE?aka_re=1)
Pinout appears to match. I'll investigate further to double check. thanks! :-+
Edit: Lcsc.com has them for cheap. I'll just add some on my next order :)
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This piece of RF junk has been in my junk box for the longest time, and I would like to know what it is before I throw away something that I could use. Its potted in epoxy inside and kind of a black box for that reason. The leftmost connector measures 0.22 ohms from center to ground, so does the bottom middle one, while the rightmost SO-238 measures approximately twice that, 0.44 ohms at DC.
Left to center's center is 0.16 and right center to center's center is 0.25 approximately. Its tarnished so its not very accurate a measurement without using a PL-259 which I don't have handy, right here.
It's around 0.22 straight through. Because its potted I doubt if it is just a y-connector.
Does anybody know what it is?
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RF resistive splitter ?
Spectrum analyzer or VNA to confirm.
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Might be some kind of transformer. You'd have to test it with some MHz of signal frequency to get useful results. VNA helps as tautech said, function gen and scope should also give some results.
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Maybe a dipol ballun?
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It's HM Electronics. They make intercom and audio systems.
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Hi guys,
Could someone clarify as to whether I'm reading this resistor correctly please, the last yellow band is throwing me a bit. I can't test it as the resistor has gone open.
I've had a dig around and am thinking that it's just a 4 band 10Ω resistor with an extra 5th band denoting it's temperature coefficient. Would this be correct or not?
Thanks guys 👍
(https://i.ibb.co/HtzN9VC/22.jpg)
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Hi guys,
Could someone clarify as to whether I'm reading this resistor correctly please, the last yellow band is throwing me a bit. I can't test it as the resistor has gone open.
I've had a dig around and am thinking that it's just a 4 band 10Ω resistor with an extra 5th band denoting it's temperature coefficient. Would this be correct or not?
Thanks guys 👍
(https://i.ibb.co/HtzN9VC/22.jpg)
I think you're right about the nature of the bands, but not necessarily about the value. The 2nd and 3rd bands don't look the same color to me, but then I'm only looking at a picture plus my red-green vision isn't the best. If the 3rd band is actually green, that would be a 1MΩ resistor.
What was the application of the circuit in question? You may be able to determine what value makes more sense.
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The 5th band could also indicate a fusible resistor (the color is vendor specific).
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Thanks guys..... I did actually consider it a fuse also as it has failed along with a TNY264GN (AC-DC Integrated Power MOSFET)
Both items are on a Neff dishwashers power in PCB.. As well as testing the PCB I'm also testing for shorts around the pump and heater element which also may have lead to these failures
Here are some hopefully helpful pics in ID'ing the resistor a little better?..
(https://i.ibb.co/m0wTjkw/1-1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vshHKBV/1-2.jpg)
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Not 1M then. I found this page with what appears to be the same failure on the same board, which is apparently common to multiple brands/rebrands of dishwasher. Fusible resistor seems to be correct.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3147364.html (https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3147364.html)
Readable if you run it through google translate or equivalent. Hope it helps you.
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Ah that's brilliant.. Ive got something to go on now.
Thanks a lot mate :-+
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Saw this on ebay. Any ideas?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Rare-Processor-Boards-Gold-Scrap-Cpu-Spectacular-Collect/223311515722?hash=item33fe67504a:g:L9kAAOSwlelcL~He:rk:12:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Rare-Processor-Boards-Gold-Scrap-Cpu-Spectacular-Collect/223311515722?hash=item33fe67504a:g:L9kAAOSwlelcL~He:rk:12:pf:0)
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Appears to be a 1990s era water-cooled mainframe CPU assembly.
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It is clear what this component is (Neutrik NTE1 transformer), so maybe this doesn't belong here.
But the question is regarding the schematic diagram for this transformer.
We know what the dots at the "top" of the primary and secondary winding mean.
But what does the dot in the middle of the secondary winding indicate?
I don't remember ever seeing such a thing before.
(https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/media/catalog/product/sup_products/neutrik/graphiques_2/NTE1.gif)
Ref: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nte1 (https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nte1)
Context: https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/professional-audio-transformer-1-1-neutrik-nte1.html (https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/professional-audio-transformer-1-1-neutrik-nte1.html)
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bifilar winding?
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More likely that they cribbed that diagram from a transformer with a centre tap (like Neutrik NTE-10/3), but somebody forgot to remove the dot.
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Agreed. Similar image...
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I don't suppose anyone knows what this is? I think I pulled it out of a brother printer (It also might have been a computer not 100% sure), but I have forgotten exactly where it was.
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I don't suppose anyone knows what this is? I think I pulled it out of a brother printer (It also might have been a computer not 100% sure), but I have forgotten exactly where it was.
High voltage transformer from a laser printer.
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Hello orbiter ,
I think it's a great idea to have a What's this please
take me I been working with electronics since I was a kid also had run my own tv and radio repair shop since the mid 80s
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Morning all!
This is from a air blend motor from a BMW.
The chip is not a package I have ever seen before and I cannot find a datasheet for it either.
Does anyone have any details or insight?
Thanks,
Alex 2
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Why couldn't it be just a BGA package soldered into the custom assembly?
Typical mass-market automotive sub-assembly engineered to the nth degree.
Quite typical to see a completely custom semiconductor
or maybe a selected commodity part, but with a proprietary internal "house-number"
It may be a custom package, but then it may be a standard power BGA package.
Can you take the dimensions of the package and research that?
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Here are some photos with a scale (mm).
I have also removed the chip from the housing to see if there was anything on the underside, sadly not.
You're probably right in that it's something completely benign in a custom case.
In this case something like a brushless motor controller IC.
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Motorola SC512502YTM is listed as "specialized hot IC" at various Hong Kong based parts suppliers.
If it’s broken, you can try and order one of those and see if it fixes your problem. If you are curious about what it actually does you might have to ask Motorola for a spec-/datasheet.
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What year BMW are we talking about?
Does Motorola still own any semiconductor divisions? They've sold them all off, I think.
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So I need to find out what temp sensor this is..
My guess is a KTY82/210.
Can anyone confirm that, or am I just wrong?
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So I need to find out what temp sensor this is..
My guess is a KTY82/210.
Can anyone confirm that, or am I just wrong?
I think you are right! :)
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Can anyone ID this IC, please?
I got it from a canon digital camera powered by two AA cells and seems to control a mosfet for the boost/dc-dc for the xenon flash tube. I could see four control lines but shorting them to ground or supply (with various combinations) and nothing seems to happen. I would like to make it work to play with :)
Googling for the numbers did not turn up anything useful. Flash control IC turns out mostly LED drivers for mobile phone flash.
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Can anyone ID this IC, please?
I got it from a canon digital camera powered by two AA cells and seems to control a mosfet for the boost/dc-dc for the xenon flash tube. I could see four control lines but shorting them to ground or supply (with various combinations) and nothing seems to happen. I would like to make it work to play with :)
Googling for the numbers did not turn up anything useful. Flash control IC turns out mostly LED drivers for mobile phone flash.
Here you go:
http://www.ti.com/product/TPS65560 (http://www.ti.com/product/TPS65560)
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps65560.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps65560.pdf)
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Can anyone ID this IC, please?
I got it from a canon digital camera powered by two AA cells and seems to control a mosfet for the boost/dc-dc for the xenon flash tube. I could see four control lines but shorting them to ground or supply (with various combinations) and nothing seems to happen. I would like to make it work to play with :)
Googling for the numbers did not turn up anything useful. Flash control IC turns out mostly LED drivers for mobile phone flash.
Here you go:
http://www.ti.com/product/TPS65560 (http://www.ti.com/product/TPS65560)
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps65560.pdf (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps65560.pdf)
Perfect. Thank you!
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In reply to #1298
Well unless I'm mistaken they are the same as this part. In which case they are varicaps/varactor diodes.
In a way these came to me the same as you. My father in law was an old time electronics guy(Air Force in the 60's an he was also a Ham). When he passed I inherited all of his collection of "stuff".
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Hello everyone,
Not sure if I am posting correctly as I have never used a forum before but here goes :)
In any case I have a question about a strange component I am trying to identify. I am in no way an engineer but I do enjoy all electronics.
Can you help?
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Full Bridge Rectifier
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Hello everyone,
Not sure if I am posting correctly as I have never used a forum before but here goes :)
In any case I have a question about a strange component I am trying to identify. I am in no way an engineer but I do enjoy all electronics.
Can you help?
From context and markings on chip and board, it's obviously a bridge rectifier in a DIP package.
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I'm trying to identify the two female sockets on this PCB so I can find mating male connectors (so I can build my own module). This is from a GRiD 1520 Laptop computer and was made in 1988. The connectors are 0.05" / 1.27mm pitch (measured), the short one is 40 pins, the long one is 60 pins. These are used as a small form-factor PC-AT 16-bit ISA bus to allow expansion modules to be plugged into the laptop (a 268 compatible).
Hours of searching has lead me to nothing. I cannot even find a photo of any of the alleged modules that were made for this laptop, other than a small part of a diagram from an advertisement from back in the day.
The only markings I can find on either connector (aside from the bottom which I cannot see without desoldering the connector) is the number "8111" followed by a triangle (see photos). The 60-pin connector has the number 8037 and the same triangle symbol. I don't know if those are batch numbers or related to the part number, or if the triangle is a pin-1 reference or a manufacturer mark.
If anyone can identify these, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Matthew
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Those look like card edge connectors to me, which would explain the lack of male connectors for it. The male connector would be the edge of a PCB with contacts on it.
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Yes, looks like card edge connectors. The C64 uses this one (https://www.digikey.de/short/ppbpm3) for the user port. In the datasheet is the recommended footprint for the daughter cards. The standard 1.6 mm PCB thickness works well for it.
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Those are bog-standard PC board edge-connectors.
When you design your module, simply include the matching "fingers" on the end of the PC board.
They are typically gold-plated for reliabilty.
(http://www.eagle-elec.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/gold-fingers-with-bevel-617x528@2x.jpg)
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I considered the same thing (card edge), but these points make the think it has a mate:
* If it is a card edge, the offset nature of the connectors would make a very strange configuration for the module plugging into it. Staggered PCBs seems a little odd.
* At around 5:20 in this video the engineer takes a module out of the system, and although he never shows the interface end directly, you can see (briefly) there is a connector vs a card edge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF5ffyr_dRo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF5ffyr_dRo)
* These laptops are really well made and having a card-edge connector for an external devices does not fix with the design of the system.
* The Ethernet module manual shows what looks like connectors. Unfortunately it is all line drawings and there is no actual photo of the module.
* Some advertising for the 1500 Series shows a drawing of a module that looks like there are connectors.
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The mating connector may be similar to the Hirose FX2 series.
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I looked that that, but the FX2 is D-shaped. It is too bad the HiRose website is awful for searching! I wonder if they ever heard of taking nice photos of their products?
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* If it is a card edge, the offset nature of the connectors would make a very strange configuration for the module plugging into it. Staggered PCBs seems a little odd.
Your own pictures/drawings say that strange or not, the connectors are both used in an offset configuration for the ethernet cartridge. The PCB's don't have to be staggered, just the connectors.
* At around 5:20 in this video the engineer takes a module out of the system, and although he never shows the interface end directly, you can see (briefly) there is a connector vs a card edge:
The SCSI cartridge in the video appears to only use one of the connectors. I guess that's the nature of general-purpose expansion connectors.
* These laptops are really well made and having a card-edge connector for an external devices does not fix with the design of the system.
Let's flip that question. What would appropriate connectors for this design look like for an end-user quick-release future-expansion cartridge interface? We already know the answer isn't any kind of header pin arrangement.
* The Ethernet module manual shows what looks like connectors. Unfortunately it is all line drawings and there is no actual photo of the module.
* Some advertising for the 1500 Series shows a drawing of a module that looks like there are connectors.
You have a point. Perhaps some sort of right-angle panel-mount fingerboard connector was available back then? Unless you obtain good pictures of one of those unobtainium modules, you may never know. It's possible many of them only existed as prototypes and never made it to market.
Nonetheless, it doesn't change what it looks like. Odds are you can use a PCB for your interface to those connectors. You should be able to confirm that easily enough with simple experiments. Alternately, you could replace "Denny's" board entirely and interface to the easily-mated pin headers and do whatever you want if you need the quick-release feature.
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So I have a confirmation from someone who has seen one of the mystery modules, and they said it has a connector. They also said they have tried to identify the connectors and could not. I am trying to find an actual photo of one though. The modules were produced in some quantity, they were not just prototypes, so they are out there somewhere.
Going ahead and using a PCB is possible, but I think it would be problematic since the thickness would have to be 2mm / 0.078", which is pretty think and not a "standard" 2 or 4 layer PCB.
Yup, I could also make my own backplane, and that is starting to look like more of a reasonable possibility, especially since I have managed to identify the lower connectors which are this series from AMP:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5-103911-2.html (https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5-103911-2.html)
Be that as it may, I would still like to identify the upper connectors in question.
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Found it! 3M-PAK50 Series, specifically:
Socket 40 pin: P51-040S-S1-EA
Socket 60 pin: P51-060S-S1-EA
Plug 40 pin, right angle: P51-040P-SR1-EA
Plug 60 pin, right angle: P51-060P-SR1-EA
Of course, almost impossible to find in stock anywhere. I think making a new version of the backplane will be more cost effective. But, at least I know what the connector is in case I want to be a purist. ;-)
Thanks everyone for the help.
Matthew
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Good job! Don't give up yet. It appears their P50E series is compatible with P50, and it's available. Mouser claims to have the 40 pin right-angle plug in stock, and you can ask them about ordering the 60 pin one. Or you can try other vendors.
http://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=P50E-040P1-SR1-EA (http://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=P50E-040P1-SR1-EA)
http://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=P50E-060P1-SR1-EA (http://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=P50E-060P1-SR1-EA)
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Additionally, if you go to the manufacturer's website, they often have a link somewhere on the part's page that will list known distributor stock. This will show you which distributors have that particular part, and how many they have. It's not 100% accurate as it's not necessarily updated in real time, but should be within a day or so. I've found it to be a big timesaver when looking for oddball stuff in that it can save you the trouble of having to look everywhere as it at least gives you a feel for who doesn't have it...
-Pat
-
@Nusa: Thanks for the research! I also found the 60-pin part, via Octopart, in stock at Arrow.
@Cubdriver: Yeah, checking the manufacturer's page for "how to buy" is something I do a lot too. Sadly, the 3M website is pretty crappy in that aspect and I could not find any information about distributors on their product page.
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Could anyone find out what this is? A tranistor? It was in the dumpster from my school and i can't find any information in the internet. It could be from the 70'ties or 80ties.
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Could anyone find out what this is?
Can you show the other side?
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Its a three pin device and it maybe a transistor(pnp) because you can measure the typical voltagedrop over the pins.
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Its a three pin device and it maybe a transistor(pnp) because you can measure the typical voltagedrop over the pins.
It sure looks like a transistor. I wonder if the first M is the Motorola logo, and I'm also not sure what the second letter is. I think the last line is the date code, week 36 1981.
-
I think "MHH" are the letters.
-
That appears to be a 2N1614.
-
Motorola MM1614
-
Motorola MM1614
So 'MM', didn't see that...
-
Thanks. I though that were "H"'s.
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It is a Motorola 2N1614 transistor in a TO5 type case. Since the Jedec system prefexed all transistors with 2N it was common to leave it off , just like the European and Asian transistors were marked 2SA, 2SB, 2SC and 2SD the 2S was usually omitted. That is what many small signal transistors looked like in the early days. Just google 2N1614 and it pops right up. Case shapes are assigned an industry number. The large TO 5 is not seen much any more for small signal transistors.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Hi :)
This is very close (in shape of the metal shroud) to a USB mini plug.
It has 11 internal pins, not including the metal shroud, so 12 conductors.
It’s a Yaesu handheld transceiver programming cable, so if the part is some stock component, it would be far cheaper to make one than buy it.
Anyone find it familiar?
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This is very close (in shape of the metal shroud) to a USB mini plug.
It has 11 internal pins, not including the metal shroud, so 12 conductors.
It’s a Yaesu handheld transceiver programming cable, so if the part is some stock component, it would be far cheaper to make one than buy it.
Anyone find it familiar?
You might check this out... http://www.eenewseurope.com/news/11-pin-io-connector-comes-format-similar-mini-usb (http://www.eenewseurope.com/news/11-pin-io-connector-comes-format-similar-mini-usb)
-
You might check this out... http://www.eenewseurope.com/news/11-pin-io-connector-comes-format-similar-mini-usb (http://www.eenewseurope.com/news/11-pin-io-connector-comes-format-similar-mini-usb)
I’m quite sure that’s it, but still can’t find it to buy! :D
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I’m quite sure that’s it, but still can’t find it to buy! :D
Well, the article gives you many informations:
Under the model designation 020036MB011M50XYZR, Suyin announced two greatly miniaturized surface-mount I/O connector receptacles with a design that is similar to the Mini-USB format.
[...]
These receptacles are supplied in tape & reel packaging; the mating plugs are supplied on trays and are available in minimum order quantities of 80,000 pieces per year or more.
Visit Suyin at www.suyin-europe.com (http://www.suyin-europe.com)
Just visit them and ask where you can buy those things.
-
I did find a supplier with minimum order of 37.
Looks like I’ll be selling some cables :D Thanks.
-
Can someone tell me what this is next to the piezo speaker? How does one go about testing this part?
Thanks in advance!
-
@windsmurf
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/msg380327/#msg380327 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/msg380327/#msg380327)
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Hey everyone,
just got my hands on a few of those 1Ohm .1% shunts. since it has been discontinued quite a long time ago (our purchasing department said around '93) I can't find any datasheet. Since I know where this was used I assume it is a quite nice shunt, but I would love to know more about, especially in regards of stability over time and temperature. eventually someone knows anything?
On the thing it says:
BADER C51b
BMN 1/1 1R00 0.1
Edit: Just found another part in the pile which is supposedly an equivalent. It is an Isabellenhütte S45 A-N-1R00-F1-K2-0.1. Looks identical to the BADER one, just different marking. If nobody knows anything I may phone the guys at Isabellenhütte, AFAIK they are quite friendly :)
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Any idea what this is? I'm fairly sure it came out of an old stereo.
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Looks like an IF filter, first I thought for the FM IF (10.7Mhz) but the 459 suggests it's for the AM IF.
[Edit] See here: https://www.changpuak.ch/electronics/ceramic_filters/muRata_Filters.pdf (https://www.changpuak.ch/electronics/ceramic_filters/muRata_Filters.pdf)
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That looks about right. Thanks
-
The part next to the piezo speaker is probably a diode to prevent reverse current damaging whatever is driving it.
-
Can someone tell me what this is next to the piezo speaker? How does one go about testing this part?
Thanks in advance!
Looks like a glass cased MLC capacitor.
(https://www.assignmentpoint.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Glass-capacitors.jpg)
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I second it is a 100nF +-20% 50V MLCC capacitor. Never seen those in a see-through glass package, but have seen then in multitude of packages, including 0204 resistor-like looking packages (pink or orange base color I think), or just yellow glass package similar to DO35.
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Can someone tell me what this is next to the piezo speaker? How does one go about testing this part?
Thanks in advance!
If it is a glass capacitor, as suggested above, the color banding is red-black-red. Which I would interpret as 2,0, x100 = 2000 pF.
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Can someone tell me what this is next to the piezo speaker? How does one go about testing this part?
Thanks in advance!
If it is a glass capacitor, as suggested above, the color banding is red-black-red. Which I would interpret as 2,0, x100 = 2000 pF.
The '104' indicates the value in pF - it's a pretty standard marking scheme for small value caps. The first two digits are significant figures, and the last is the multiplier. 104 is 10 followed by four zeroes, for 100,000pF or 0.1uF.
-Pat
Edit to add - that's the first time I've ever seen an MLCC packaged like that.
Edit to further add - this reply was directed at the image cyberdragon posted. Looking at the original post, Nusa looks to have it right. D'oh!!
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Looks like a glass cased MLC capacitor.
Why would you do that? Seems way pricier than just using a leaded cap.
-
Some fun ...
-
Something tells me you don't actually need us to identify that.
-
What is the use for that small, tiny "Vortex Capacitor"? I couldn't find anything usefull after a (very) quick google search.
-
Hi, Does anybody know what the 323 CUA (U29) is below?
I tried looking in the few smd databases I know of but all that seems to come up for CUA are voltage regs which wouldn't make sense for the circut.
The board is an electronic distance measurement board from a surveying total station, there is an avalanche photodiode connected to a transimpedance amplifer circut (U8 - lmc64) the output of which goes to
the main microcontroller, and also connected via a capacitor and then pair of resistors to this 323 CUA.
The avalanche photodiode is used with a modulated laser diode to determine distance to physical objeccts, but currently for some reason there's some unexplained extra noise in the output of the photodiode circut that I'm trying to find the root of.
Thanks.
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Hi, Does anybody know what the 323 CUA (U29) is below?
I tried looking in the few smd databases I know of but all that seems to come up for CUA are voltage regs which wouldn't make sense for the circut.
The board is an electronic distance measurement board from a surveying total station, there is an avalanche photodiode connected to a transimpedance amplifer circut (U8 - lmc64) the output of which goes to
the main microcontroller, and also connected via a capacitor and then pair of resistors to this 323 CUA.
The avalanche photodiode is used with a modulated laser diode to determine distance to physical objeccts, but currently for some reason there's some unexplained extra noise in the output of the photodiode circut that I'm trying to find the root of.
Thanks.
Appologies, it's a switch.
My googling abilities are abysymal. :)
-
Hi, Does anybody know what the 323 CUA (U29) is below?
I tried looking in the few smd databases I know of but all that seems to come up for CUA are voltage regs which wouldn't make sense for the circut.
The board is an electronic distance measurement board from a surveying total station, there is an avalanche photodiode connected to a transimpedance amplifer circut (U8 - lmc64) the output of which goes to
the main microcontroller, and also connected via a capacitor and then pair of resistors to this 323 CUA.
The avalanche photodiode is used with a modulated laser diode to determine distance to physical objeccts, but currently for some reason there's some unexplained extra noise in the output of the photodiode circut that I'm trying to find the root of.
Thanks.
Appologies, it's a switch.
My googling abilities are abysymal. :)
MAX323CUA :)
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What's this, please?
It's connected to three pairs of N-Channel MOSFETS (the circuit is a 3-phase motor driver).
The characters on the package are: "3PA0 1803 RPT"
I think it's some kind of 3-phase driver, because the other ICs on this board have other functions (CAN receiver, LDOs, and so on).
Anyone who knows what it is: thanks in advance!
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Looks like a LDO synchronous buck regulator from what I can find. https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/TC1303C (https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/TC1303C)
-
Looks like a LDO synchronous buck regulator from what I can find. https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/TC1303C (https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/TC1303C)
I think you're right. Makes sense, given the inductor which is immediately adjacent to it as well.
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4SgvBmb75A (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4SgvBmb75A)
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This IC was in a socket where I was expecting a serial eprom to be located. The device is an NEC 7b pager.
However I am unable to identify it from the markings.
SPM
27C41COB
F82108
Can anyone confirm if this is an eprom and if there a way to read it in an eprom reader?
-
That is the Seiko Epson logo, so the part is a Seiko SPM27C41COB. Web searches turn up very little, although there was one hit in Korean that mentions it in passing. The device is listed on Octopart. With a "27C" code it appears to be a CMOS EPROM, which is not erasable without the quartz window. With only 8 pins, it must be serial, indeed.
I checked some device lists of my programmers and none has that device listed. Serial EPROMs can have three different interfaces: Microwire, I2C, and SPI. If you can determine which one the chip uses, you would select a device with the same interface and ideally the same capacity, disable Device ID in your software, and cross your fingers when reading it.
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I'm trying to identify the exact type of a diode, but without much luck. Hopefully someone here can help.
It's a SOT-23 package single diode, with a marking of just "101". Well, at least, that's as far as I can make out the markings, because they're very faintly etched. Anode is on pin 1, cathode pin 3, pin 2 N.C.
I thought perhaps that maybe the last digit might be a factory/country/etc. code, so have searched for just "10*", but didn't turn anything up for that either.
This diode is only being used a simple polarity-protection diode, so at the end of the day it's not too important to me to identify it precisely, but I would like to in particular know the reverse voltage rating, and perhaps whether it's a schottky or regular type.
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I'm trying to identify the exact type of a diode, but without much luck. Hopefully someone here can help.
It's a SOT-23 package single diode, with a marking of just "101". Well, at least, that's as far as I can make out the markings, because they're very faintly etched. Anode is on pin 1, cathode pin 3, pin 2 N.C.
I thought perhaps that maybe the last digit might be a factory/country/etc. code, so have searched for just "10*", but didn't turn anything up for that either.
This diode is only being used a simple polarity-protection diode, so at the end of the day it's not too important to me to identify it precisely, but I would like to in particular know the reverse voltage rating, and perhaps whether it's a schottky or regular type.
Does it look like this one?
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Does it look like this one?
Cool, thanks. :-+
Yeah, looks like that. Marking is in the same orientation as that photo too. It might just be the photo, but doesn't the body of that part look a little 'fat' for a SOT-23, though?
I'm pretty sure it won't be a random wun-hung-lo part, though, because to the best of my knowledge all the parts on the board came from Digikey, so it's likely to be a more well-known brand. Unless of course the Chinese seller you found that photo from was selling a non-Chinese part...
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Does it look like this one?
Cool, thanks. :-+
Yeah, looks like that. Marking is in the same orientation as that photo too. It might just be the photo, but doesn't the body of that part look a little 'fat' for a SOT-23, though?
I'm pretty sure it won't be a random wun-hung-lo part, though, because to the best of my knowledge all the parts on the board came from Digikey, so it's likely to be a more well-known brand. Unless of course the Chinese seller you found that photo from was selling a non-Chinese part...
I found this part on taobao.com, model A1101ELHLT-T, a Hall sensor from Allegro, it looks a little bit fat because the package is SOT23W.
https://www.allegromicro.com/~/media/Files/Datasheets/A110x-Datasheet.ashx (https://www.allegromicro.com/~/media/Files/Datasheets/A110x-Datasheet.ashx)
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I found this part on taobao.com, model A1101ELHLT-T, a Hall sensor from Allegro, it looks a little bit fat because the package is SOT23W.
Ah... I think you missed the several places in my original post where I said the thing I was looking at was a diode. :palm: ;D
Thanks anyway.
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Its great post and help me a lot. please keep continue posting articles
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I found this part on taobao.com, model A1101ELHLT-T, a Hall sensor from Allegro, it looks a little bit fat because the package is SOT23W.
Ah... I think you missed the several places in my original post where I said the thing I was looking at was a diode. :palm: ;D
Thanks anyway.
Actually I noticed that you are looking for a diode, that's the reason why I did not give the model number of the part I found in my first post. :)
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I'm trying to identify the exact type of a diode, but without much luck. Hopefully someone here can help.
It's a SOT-23 package single diode, with a marking of just "101". Well, at least, that's as far as I can make out the markings, because they're very faintly etched. Anode is on pin 1, cathode pin 3, pin 2 N.C.
Perhaps it's actually an SOT346 package, nearly identical, but have a look at this: https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PZM_N_SERIES.pdf (https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PZM_N_SERIES.pdf)
Just search for "101" and it'll pull up PZM10NB1
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Perhaps it's actually an SOT346 package, nearly identical, but have a look at this: https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PZM_N_SERIES.pdf (https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PZM_N_SERIES.pdf)
Just search for "101" and it'll pull up PZM10NB1
Hmm, a candidate, but it would be pretty dumb to be using a 10V zener as a series polarity protection diode! :o
Unless they had some kind of mix-up during board assembly and the wrong (but still semi-functional) part got placed...
-
Perhaps it's actually an SOT346 package, nearly identical, but have a look at this: https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PZM_N_SERIES.pdf (https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PZM_N_SERIES.pdf)
Just search for "101" and it'll pull up PZM10NB1
Hmm, a candidate, but it would be pretty dumb to be using a 10V zener as a series polarity protection diode! :o
Unless they had some kind of mix-up during board assembly and the wrong (but still semi-functional) part got placed...
Any chance of a good photo?
-
I know what these are but I don't know what they're called.
I'm thinking of making some high-ish voltage test cables but can't find (just) plugs and think it would help if I knew what names they go by. Thanks.
UPDATE: Thanks Tautech, especially for the retractable aspect. A little searching on "shielded" and it seems "Retractable Sheath Banana Plug" makes a good search.
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I know what these are but I don't know what they're called.
I'm thinking of making some high-ish voltage test cables but can't find (just) plugs and think it would help if I knew what names they go by. Thanks.
Shielded banana plugs.
Some have retractable shields and you'll find them more useful to use in a wider range of equipment.
-
Also known as shrouded banana plugs.
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Hi! I'm new on the forum and looking for advice as to what this type of connector is called - pen included for scale.
It's gold plated and connects the DC motor, tachometer and resolver to the internal wire harness of an industrial robot arm. Both connectors are 30mm wide. Cables attaches to the other side of the pins via simple solder cups.
Looking to replace the electronics in the robot but I want to preserve as much of the original equipment as possible, to enable a future "proper" restoration using the old hardware.
Thankful for any replies :)
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Hi! I'm new on the forum and looking for advice as to what this type of connector is called - pen included for scale.
It's gold plated and connects the DC motor, tachometer and resolver to the internal wire harness of an industrial robot arm. Both connectors are 30mm wide. Cables attaches to the other side of the pins via simple solder cups.
Looking to replace the electronics in the robot but I want to preserve as much of the original equipment as possible, to enable a future "proper" restoration using the old hardware.
Thankful for any replies :)
Looks like there may be a brand or identifier molded under the label marked "12" - if you could lift the label and have a look, that could help out. What brand motor and what brand robot?
-
Duh, of course!
It's a Souriau connector. They don't seem to make them anymore - they got a similar snap connector though. Guess I'll have to replace it.
The robot in an old ABB/ASEA IRB6.
Thanks for the help!
-
Hello,
I'm a proud owner of a JBC HD-2B soldering station.
(https://www.jbctools.com/productes/HD/img/tam_1/imagen_01.jpg)
This station comes with the T470 handles and they are using the C470 tips.
Those C470 tips are nice, but if you want to do some finer work, a T245 with C245 tips would be much better.
Unfortunately, the T245/C245 is not compatible with the HD-2B. Except, if you
put a 60 Ohm resistor in the +Ub path when using a T245/C245.
I have found this in the German "mikrocontroller.net" forum:
https://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/408786#4791503 (https://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/408786#4791503)
I'd like to build a switchbox, where I can switch between the T470 and T245
and for this I need to know, what the connectors are.
The HD-2B comes with a cable, which connects the power supply to the stand for the T470.
The cable has the item number 0011283 and is looking like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/utWISmp.png)
Does anybody exactly know, what the connectors are?
Thank you for your help.
Mounty
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Does anybody exactly know, what the connectors are?
Have you opened up one of the connectors to see if there's a brand or part number inside the shell?
-
Does anybody exactly know, what the connectors are?
Have you opened up one of the connectors to see if there's a brand or part number inside the shell?
I did that at first but no brand shown.
But in the meantime I have digged very deeply in google searching results and some other forums
and yesterday evening I've found them.
The brand is: binder https://www.binder-connector.com/ (https://www.binder-connector.com/)
and these are the connectors used:
Bajonet cable connector:
https://www.binder-connector.com/en/products/miniature-circular-connectors/bayonet-ip40-1/cable-plug-connector-cable-outlet-6-8-mm-1/#9906210207 (https://www.binder-connector.com/en/products/miniature-circular-connectors/bayonet-ip40-1/cable-plug-connector-cable-outlet-6-8-mm-1/#9906210207)
(https://static.binder-connector.com/prod_media/produktfoto_seo/678_1_02.jpg)
Bayonet female panel mount connector
https://www.binder-connector.com/en/products/miniature-circular-connectors/bayonet-ip40-1/female-socket/#9906240007 (https://www.binder-connector.com/en/products/miniature-circular-connectors/bayonet-ip40-1/female-socket/#9906240007)
(https://static.binder-connector.com/prod_media/produktfoto_seo/678_4_00.jpg)
They are available here for example:
https://www.buerklin.com/de/Produkte/Steckverbinder/Industrie-Steckverbinder/sonstige-Rundsteckverbinder/Rundsteckverbinder%2C-7-polig%2C-Bajonettverriegelung%2C-Stecker/p/66F820 (https://www.buerklin.com/de/Produkte/Steckverbinder/Industrie-Steckverbinder/sonstige-Rundsteckverbinder/Rundsteckverbinder%2C-7-polig%2C-Bajonettverriegelung%2C-Stecker/p/66F820)
https://www.buerklin.com/de/Produkte/Steckverbinder/Industrie-Steckverbinder/sonstige-Rundsteckverbinder/Rundsteckverbinder%2C-7-polig%2C-Bajonettverriegelung%2C-Einbaubuchse/p/66F980 (https://www.buerklin.com/de/Produkte/Steckverbinder/Industrie-Steckverbinder/sonstige-Rundsteckverbinder/Rundsteckverbinder%2C-7-polig%2C-Bajonettverriegelung%2C-Einbaubuchse/p/66F980)
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These were made between mid '80s and late '90s.
I know what these are but can anyone tell me who the manufacturer with the circled "T" symbol is?
-
Hello.
Does anyone have any info by this amplifier(Or same with similar pins)?
-
I have these really old Centralabs pots. I know I can measure them, but I was wondering if there's datasheets for these, or if you can determine their values and taper types from the markings?
-
I didn't spot an actual datasheet, but you might find this useful:
https://www.americanradiohistory.com/hd2/IDX-Consumer/Archive-Radio-Electronics-IDX/IDX/50s/1953/Radio-Electronics-1953-07-OCR-Page-0075.pdf (https://www.americanradiohistory.com/hd2/IDX-Consumer/Archive-Radio-Electronics-IDX/IDX/50s/1953/Radio-Electronics-1953-07-OCR-Page-0075.pdf)
So if that used pot is servicable, I'd say that it is a 50K linear.
-
Thanks.
Why didn't they just stamp THAT on the part :-//
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This 5-pin, SIL IC is marked M5293. It should be regulating the -30-ish-V cathode voltage of a vacuum fluorescent display in an old Sony CDP-S41 CD player.
But it isn't. An adjacent electrolytic cap leaked and messed up the PCB all around this area. I don't know whether this circuitry is dead, or just not being told to turn on.
When I google M5293 I just get a bunch of zener diode data sheets. Maybe it's a Sony proprietary part?
I don't suppose anyone would have a data sheet?
-
Looks like a resistor network to me.
EDIT: this is what I found:
M5293 Fluorescent Character Display Tube
https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/305/M5293-pdf.php (https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/305/M5293-pdf.php)
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Brilliant! That's it, pins match, thanks so much. I knew someone would have better google-foo than me.
-
Brilliant! That's it, pins match, thanks so much. I knew someone would have better google-foo than me.
No worries, I just googled "resistor network M5293" and amzingly it came up despite not being an RN. :o
-
How good is your SMD-Codes list? I searched the interweb with little luck. I have a 3 pin device that has what is probably a SOT-23 footprint with a code that reads:
[ .1H:P: ]
My SMD-codes list has "1Hp" which links to a BC847 npn bipolar. Sadly the device i have does not diode-junction check using my DMM as an npn but a pnp.
Any suggestions appreciated.
-
Possibly a BC857 (PNP equiv) though it would be marked 3HP?
-
I finally plugged the 1H.p into my Atlas Peak DCA Pro. Previous diode mode DVM testings began me (excitedly) to think it might be a J-FET. The Peak however confirmed it as boring olde npn. My next move is to hunt down a move reliable source of SMD semiconductor codes.
-
Looking for a pinout for these DC-DC converters. Made in mid to late 80s.
-
So I'm restoring an old Tandy 1000 TL/2 motherboard that had apparently been stored in someone's junk pile of old PCB's and I've come across these weird MURATA DST310 55D-223s EMI suppression filters.
[attach=1]
it took me ages to figure out what they are (https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-2097542389538652280), but now that I know what they are I cant seem to find any. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement as I have a number of them that have been physically damaged while in "storage"?
-
Murata DSS1 series for example?
(https://media.rs-online.com/t_large/R1223872-01.jpg)
-
Murata DSS1 series for example?
(https://media.rs-online.com/t_large/R1223872-01.jpg)
Cheers, I’ll look them up.
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Two for ID:
Both sensors of some sort, I believe.
-
The hole suggests air pressure?
-
Or microphone?
-
Two for ID:
Both sensors of some sort, I believe.
The first one is MS5637 pressure sensor from TE.
https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Data+Sheet%7FMS5637-02BA03%7FB4%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_DS_MS5637-02BA03_B4.pdf%7FCAT-BLPS0037 (https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Data+Sheet%7FMS5637-02BA03%7FB4%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_DS_MS5637-02BA03_B4.pdf%7FCAT-BLPS0037)
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Hello, i am new hereee,can anyone tell me what this GAS1 component is, i have NEVER seen this reference designator beafore! Hope someone knows! Tnx in advance!
[attach=1]
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It's a Gas Discharge Tube
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Hello, i am new hereee,can anyone tell me what this GAS1 component is, i have NEVER seen this reference designator beafore! Hope someone knows! Tnx in advance!
(Attachment Link)
Likely a gas discharge tube used as a voltage clamp. It's covered in heat shrink, so not as obvious.
https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/product_catalogs/littelfuse_gdt_catalog.pdf.pdf <---(See page 13)
-Pat
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Chasing down a datasheet for this SMD (MOSFET switches?). I've buzzed out with diode function on my DMM that their purpose in life is to switch the 2 parallel rechargeable 18650 3.7V LiOn cells -ve terminals to the rest of the circuit, (the +ve terminals are already permanently mechanically joined.
Can't find anything for "3130 U354".... any info truly appreciated. :)
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https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/2001131003_Shikues-BRCL3130ME_C475652.pdf
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Not so much a "what's this" as a "have you seen"...
A company called "Parasitic Engineering" sold various kits to improve the original Altair 8800 computer. One of their kits was a "fix" to the clock generation circuit for the CPU:
https://deramp.com/downloads/altair/hardware/altair_8800_computer/Parasitic%20Clock%20Mod.pdf (https://deramp.com/downloads/altair/hardware/altair_8800_computer/Parasitic%20Clock%20Mod.pdf)
If you don't want to be bothered to click through, it describes a chip, that they call a 94618, that is roughly pin compatible with a 74123 but is higher precision and has built in temperature compensation and schmidt triggered inputs. My google-fu is coming up empty. I'd appreciate any reference. A manufacturer, a call out in a cross reference list, anything. A picture would be wonderful and if you had one for sale...
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Some more modern implementations of the 74123 device have schmitt trigger inputs and temperature compensation (I didn't check the overall precision).
The CD74HC123 (http://www.ti.com/product/CD74HC123) has schmitt triggers. I couldn't find any reference about tempco.
The SN74LS123 (http://www.ti.com/product/SN74LS123) claims to have "enough Schmitt hysteresis to ensure jitter-free triggering from the B input with transition rates as slow as 0.1 millivolt per nanosecond.". This app note (https://www.ti.com/lit/an/sdla006a/sdla006a.pdf) mentions it has temperature compensation.
Perhaps one of these options could help?
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If I read the pdf correctly the circuit is to generate the correct clock signals even when the 2MHz crystal decides to oscillate at 6MHz. It looks easier to just get a better quality crystal. There is totally no info on a 94618, so maybe they relabeled something less expensive? ;) You can't use a *123 here because that is retriggerable.
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You can't use a *123 here because that is retriggerable.
I noticed that after I posted (I didn't open the doc prior to my posting).
Perhaps the SN74LS221 (https://www.ti.com/product/SN74221) then? Temperature stability, schmitt trigger inputs, pinout and non-retriggerable...
Other reference from NSC: AN-366 (http://www2.elo.utfsm.cl/~lsb/elo211/datos/lacaja/74123.pdf).
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I appreciate the replies so far, except that I'm looking for this component for historical reasons. I agree that nowadays there are much better options for correcting the problem. I'd like to assemble a "replica" of the original kit. It would never actually be used. I guess that makes me a little bit of a chip collector (arg!), something I dislike. I like everything in my collection to work. No insects stuck on pins. But, in this one case (actually, I can think of a couple more) I'll make an exception so that I can point to it and tell people "this is how you fixed bugs back in the day." I could just take j-random-dip-package and paint "94618" on it I suppose...
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I was able to get in touch with someone who has an Altair CPU board with the modifications. They were installed and working "back in the day" and still work now. Funnily enough, my comment about:
I could just take j-random-dip-package and paint "94618" on it I suppose...
looks to be about right. See the attached image. I'm hoping he will pull the chip from the socket and see whether there are any identifying marks on the underside. I'm wondering if the chip is just a 74221.
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I'm wondering if the chip is just a 74221.
See my comment above:
There is totally no info on a 94618, so maybe they relabeled something less expensive?
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I’m fixing up an HP 419A meter and one of the switches was knackered. The white plastic that holds the contacts was completely crumbling (luckily the others are fine).
Seems to be some kind of modular switch assembly where you can install the contacts you want, but so far I’m having no luck finding them. The contacts themselves are ok, I just need to replace the plastic strip (repair attempt already failed, and a large section was missing anyway.
Any tips on a manufacturer/model name/search term?
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The switch is HP part number 3101-0803, and it was made by Oak Manufacturing in Crystal Lake, IL. My guess would be that it is a part custom made for HP.
Edit to add - best course might be to find a sheet of similar plastic and shape it to fit and manually add the needed contacts.
-Pat
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The switch is HP part number 3101-0803, and it was made by Oak Manufacturing in Crystal Lake, IL. My guess would be that it is a part custom made for HP.
Edit to add - best course might be to find a sheet of similar plastic and shape it to fit and manually add the needed contacts.
-Pat
Thanks mate! I tried looking up the part number I thought I had but got nowhere. Fabricobbling something myself was the backup plan, may still be the way to go. Shouldn't be too hard really, I was just feeling lazy and hoping those strips were a generic item still available that you could just install contacts into as you require (they seem to be, or at least seemed like they were at the time)
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I have a lot of (fake) mosfets from a friend taken out of brand new off grid inverters. They still measure fine and are useable but I'm just curious as to what devices they actually are.
I did some measurements with the universal component tester for Vth and Ciss, kelvin connections for on on resistance and 100uA current limited supply for breakdown voltage at VGS=0V.
I also did some measurements with known original components for comparison and I'm leaning on an IRFZ44 or something slightly more beefy device than the Z44 for the fake 3205 and 1404 devices.
The IRFB4110 appear to be fakes but I have a limited mosfet vocabulary, maybe someone with a lot more experience with fets know what these devices are based on the measured specs.
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These China manufactured semiconductors will likely be paralleled MOSFET dc Control to dim banks of LEDs but does anyone recognise them and have a link to a pdf etc... I have had a session on Google but no joy, here’s a picture of the cretins taken down the eyepiece of an old microscope with a knackered old iPhone 5S. TIA
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These China manufactured semiconductors will likely be paralleled MOSFET dc Control to dim banks of LEDs but does anyone recognise them and have a link to a pdf etc... I have had a session on Google but no joy, here’s a picture of the cretins taken down the eyepiece of an old microscope with a knackered old iPhone 5S. TIA
Most likely they are SM4307 mosfets from sinopower. Here (https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=SM4307) you have link to few datasheets.
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I have an unknown component and am unable to find any reference data, if anyone has knowledge of it, I would appreciate your sharing with me and any others that read this post.
The IC is in a SO8 packaging with two lines of information ..
SCA 106
CHMC S19
I believe the CHMC indicates it is a Chinese produced item as is the Kogan DAB radio that it is found in.
Hopefully I can buy one or find a substitute if I can get data about it.
Thank you.
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These China manufactured semiconductors will likely be paralleled MOSFET dc Control to dim banks of LEDs but does anyone recognise them and have a link to a pdf etc... I have had a session on Google but no joy, here’s a picture of the cretins taken down the eyepiece of an old microscope with a knackered old iPhone 5S. TIA
Most likely they are SM4307 mosfets from sinopower. Here (https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=SM4307) you have link to few datasheets.
Picture of SM4307 from Taobao
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SCA 106
CHMC S19
Yep, CHMC is a Chinese manufacturer and SCA106 seems to be a buck converter. I haven't found any datasheet but a schematic (http://www.df7sx.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/radiowerkstatt_schema.pdf (http://www.df7sx.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/radiowerkstatt_schema.pdf)).
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Hello,
I need some help to identify these two Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, the value itself is clear, but I have nothing found to identify the second and third part:
33uF EFK. 6B5
220uF VFK. 6D6
Is it possible to identify the voltage?
Thanx!
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Hello,
I need some help to identify these two Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, the value itself is clear, but I have nothing found to identify the second and third part:
33uF EFK. 6B5
220uF VFK. 6D6
Is it possible to identify the voltage?
Thanx!
Those capacitors look like Panasonic FK series, E = 25V, V = 35V, 6B5 and 6D6 are lot numbers.
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf/RDE0000/ABA0000C1181.pdf
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Connector ID question.
Does anyone know what type this connector is. I need to make up another cable and my Google foo is weak on this one.
It's about the size of an SMB connector.
Images attached,
Cheers,
Phil
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It's about the size of an SMB connector.
It also looks like an SMB connector. So why do you think it isn’t?
Or are you looking for the exact model of the male plug?
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You can find ready-made cables with smb at both ends, or smb to some of the common alternatives. If your requirements are simple, that may be the easiest route.
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Cheers Frozenfrog and Nusa,
I agree that the retaining style is the same as an SMB, but the polarity of the connector is reversed.
I know of RP-SMA but have not found the equivalent in SMB.
I'm not looking for this exact connector model, just a supplier lead for the cable mounted connector style.
After an hour or so of google image search and searching coaxial connector manufactures I cam up empty for this style of connector.
If anyone has a link to this style of "reversed" connector it would be very handy.
Phil
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Cheers Frozenfrog and Nusa,
I agree that the retaining style is the same as an SMB, but the polarity of the connector is reversed.
I know of RP-SMA but have not found the equivalent in SMB.
I'm not looking for this exact connector model, just a supplier lead for the cable mounted connector style.
After an hour or so of google image search and searching coaxial connector manufactures I cam up empty for this style of connector.
If anyone has a link to this style of "reversed" connector it would be very handy.
Phil
Ok, on closer look, you're correct, it's not SMB.
Looks like MSS instead: https://www.hirose.com/product/p/CL0319-0010-3-40?lang=en (https://www.hirose.com/product/p/CL0319-0010-3-40?lang=en) , look at the series catalog linked off that page for mating components.
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Wow! That's cheeky. Now, that you pointed out the obvious, I see it. :palm:
Good catch with the MSS connector!
Seems like I need to get my head checked. I was looking at the images and did not see the difference. LMAO
Also: I never heard of those MSS connectors.
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To avoid double post, what sensor (from an iPhone) is this please: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/reuse-iphone-image-sensors-(camera-only-without-the-whole-phone)/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/reuse-iphone-image-sensors-(camera-only-without-the-whole-phone)/) ?
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To avoid double post, what sensor (from an iPhone) is this please: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/reuse-iphone-image-sensors-(camera-only-without-the-whole-phone)/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/reuse-iphone-image-sensors-(camera-only-without-the-whole-phone)/) ?
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5+Teardown/10525#s38313 (https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5+Teardown/10525#s38313)
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https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5+Teardown/10525#s38313 (https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5+Teardown/10525#s38313)
That's a page with a video and many pics. I don't know where to look. I know that small flexible ribbon is from an iPhone, it has many sensors on the same ribbon, I linked to the amazon part number of that ribbon, but I don't know what is each sensor.
What does the small yellowish can with a metallic shinny tube attached senses, the one pointed with arrows in my pics? Not looking for a replace, just trying to learn what it is, because of it's curious shape.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=243835.0;attach=1000480;image)
More details and pics https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/reuse-iphone-image-sensors-(camera-only-without-the-whole-phone)/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/reuse-iphone-image-sensors-(camera-only-without-the-whole-phone)/)
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https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5+Teardown/10525#s38313 (https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5+Teardown/10525#s38313)
That's a page with a video and many pics. I don't know where to look.
The link should take you to here, where they say it's a microphone:
[attach=1]
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@tsmith35
On the same black ribbon there is also a small black cube with two bumps, cube that looks like an infra red LED + photo diode ensemble. I assume that black cube (not well visible in my pics) is the proximity sensor in iPhone 5, and not the metallic thing pointed by the arrow (but I'm not sure).
@PA0PBZ
A microphone makes sense, thank you.
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Hi guys, out of curiosity, I tried reverse engineering my flashlight's over engineered driver board to know how it works and because, sometimes the brightness control goes slow responding or the brightness levels goes crazy. (mostly fixed by randomly resoldering all the components in the whole assembly) It consists of three boards in a 3D arrangement. I pretty much reverse engineered the schematic with only three semiconductors I could not identify.
I tried to do a bit of googling but could not identify IC1 the DC to DC boost converter in SOT23-6 which is marked "WB5n3" (disregard the writing in the schem, I misspelled it there) and appears to have a similar pinout to some LT devices and quite close to a MP3120 but is not a synchronous type.
IC2 is also a SOT23-6 looks like a mosfet, load switch or current sensor? It is marked "D9EA".
Op amp is SOT23-5 marked "SBUS" but I could not find that also. This one is probably some generic low supply voltage rail to rail op amp.
I already identified the LDO as XC6206 252MR
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Try this
WB5b3 https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811081220_Silergy-Corp-SY8120B1ABC_C88474.pdf
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Try this
WB5b3 https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811081220_Silergy-Corp-SY8120B1ABC_C88474.pdf
Unfortunately, that's not it. I have seen it before posting and it is synchronous buck. The one I'm looking for is non synchronous boost. Thanks anyway :D
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Connector ID please
Trying to identify manufacturer and model series - this is a keyed 8-pole connector, black plastic inner is approx. 10mm and the threaded outside of the socket is 15.3mm.
Thanks in advance.
(http://www.shooting-wales.org.uk/Plug-1.jpg)
(http://www.shooting-wales.org.uk/Socket-1.jpg)
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Connector ID please
Trying to identify manufacturer and model series - this is a keyed 8-pole connector, black plastic inner is approx. 10mm and the threaded outside of the socket is 15.3mm.
Thanks in advance.
(http://www.shooting-wales.org.uk/Plug-1.jpg)(http://www.shooting-wales.org.uk/Socket-1.jpg)
Looks like these are Binder connectors.
Have a look at their website, probably you'll find them there.
https://www.binder-connector.com/en/ (https://www.binder-connector.com/en/)
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Looks like a plain old microphone connector as used in commercial 2 way radios, ham radios & CB radios.
Basic mics use 4 pin versions, but those that include extra controls use more, sometimes 7, but usually 8 pins.
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Looks like a plain old microphone connector ...
I thought so at first, but, no, size and pin placing aren't the same and this plug/socket are a higher quality than the usual microphone component.
Might be Binder, have to wade through their catalogue, but at first sight, I don't think so.
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Can anyone please identify the 3x3mm IC marked:
DEN
S1A2K
It would make sense that it's a EEPROM but I need datasheet proof.
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Can anyone please identify the 3x3mm IC marked:
DEN
S1A2K
It would make sense that it's a EEPROM but I need datasheet proof.
Try this:
https://www.renesas.com/eu/en/www/doc/datasheet/isl90810.pdf (https://www.renesas.com/eu/en/www/doc/datasheet/isl90810.pdf)
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Thanks a lot gamalot.
That fits the partial pinout I had.
How did you search that? Or was it that you just knew from using the part before?
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Thanks a lot gamalot.
That fits the partial pinout I had.
How did you search that? Or was it that you just knew from using the part before?
No worries. I don’t remember exactly what happened at that time, it seems like that I searched for 'msop8 marking DEN' in Google and found this link:
https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/235/ISL90810UIU8-TK.php (https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/235/ISL90810UIU8-TK.php)
Since you mentioned in the previous post that it may be an EEPROM, and the chip I found happens to have an I2C interface, and the pin positions are also matched, so I believe it is very likely that I have found the right one.
:)
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Hi,
Anyone have any idea what this is ? It's marked 9FS 5Y
Removed from a Kenwood head unit.
(https://i.imgur.com/YLpR8nB.jpg)
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The packaging looks weird, what is there on the right side? :-//
It looks like one of these: https://www.torexsemi.com/file/en/products/discontinued/-2016/53-XC6209_12.pdf (https://www.torexsemi.com/file/en/products/discontinued/-2016/53-XC6209_12.pdf)
(See page 28)
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Yes, it's a SOT89-5 , thanks !
Still not sure what voltage it is, that table is confusing :D
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Yes, it's a SOT89-5 , thanks !
Still not sure what voltage it is, that table is confusing :D
Looks like...
9 = XC6209xxxxxx series
F = XC6209Bxxxxx product series covering 0.15V to 3.05V in 0.05V increments
S = 2.4V to 2.45V output voltage based on the product series
The 5Y is the lot number.
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Hi all.
I´m with an 8116A with an offset at output.
We have found a faulty dual transistor:
HP p/n:1853-0589 -> MD4260
I don´t find anything about this on internet, no datasheet, no spares and no equivalent.
If anyone knows something about it, thanks in advice...
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Looks like 2 HF PNP's in one TO77 package: http://transistor-spravochnik.ru/description/md4260/44986 (http://transistor-spravochnik.ru/description/md4260/44986)
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Hi,
Anyone have any idea what this is ? It's marked 9FS 5Y
Removed from a Kenwood head unit.
(https://i.imgur.com/YLpR8nB.jpg)
Considering that 3.3V regulator is much more common, maybe it is an XC6223B331PR-G, see page 29:
https://www.torexsemi.com/file/xc6223/XC6223.pdf (https://www.torexsemi.com/file/xc6223/XC6223.pdf)
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This TO-92 is in position "T3109" on a Hameg 205-3 oscilloscope's timebase.
The service manual shows it should be a BF256 JFET.
Supposedly defective because I was unable to get the start of the analogue and digital storage traces to coincide, replacing it solved the problem.
AVR transistor tester sometimes shows it as JFET sometimes BJT...
I can't find anything with the actual markings. Any clues?
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Could somebody help me identify this component?
This are photos of the output jacks of the Ronan x85 calibrator. The element is between "Output-" and "Output+".
It it a TVS? I can read 50V on it. Does anybody know the particular part?
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Axial lead glass ceramic capacitor. Your pictures don't have a good angle on the number that indicates value.
Here's an example: https://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G23426 (https://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G23426)
You can also find them on ebay.
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Hey Dave,
I know this is a 4 year old post but I can identify that part for you. It's a triac used in a Lutron TG-603PG 120V dimmer switch. I tried calling Lutron to get any information on it since I haven't found any datasheets or schematics, but they said they didn't have that information. I have one of these dimmers, so if you'd want pictures of the PCB to reverse engineer the pinout, I'd be happy to share.
Thanks,
Remy
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It would have helped a lot if you quoted the post you are replying to :-\
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Not so much a "what is this", but a "where the heck can i get it" question: It's a 5x20mm fuse holder with some sort of extension that makes the entire fuse holder longer. I considered just buying normal fuseholders for their insert, but those are not long enough (the fuse just bounces around inside)...
(I currently have one of those things that gets shared between a Keithley 236 and a AFG, so i need a second one)
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Any ideas about this H8Z1K thing? It's in a CE-19 interface for a Xiegu X5105 radio.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=1125156;image)
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Any ideas about this H8Z1K thing? It's in a CE-19 interface for a Xiegu X5105 radio.
It seems like this one
http://www.ic72.com/pdf_file/k/88872.pdf (http://www.ic72.com/pdf_file/k/88872.pdf)
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Thanks, I found that too but I can't believe that a UHF tuner part would be used to switch a PTT line.
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I think I found it: IRLML5203
https://alltransistors.com/pdfdatasheet_international_rectifier/irlml5203gpbf.pdf
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I've never seen markings like this on a capacitor and a google search isn't being very helpful. I have quite a few of them but don't know what they are. All I know is that they were made in Mexico. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
-
That looks like a varistor.
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I've never seen markings like this on a capacitor and a google search isn't being very helpful. I have quite a few of them but don't know what they are. All I know is that they were made in Mexico. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
It looks like a resettable PTC made by Littlefuse.
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Ah ok. I found those. I'm not familiar with them at all. I don't see a chart or legend on how to decipher code on it. Do you know?
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The logo is the one used by the TE Electronics/Tyco/Raychem brand for polyswitch devices. Littelfuse acquired that part of them about four years ago, which is why all the supplier links go there now, even if some of the pictures are old.
You can always test one to see what its trip current is. If it's in the label at all, I'd guess that 130 refers to 1.3 amps. The voltage rating is a bit harder to determine.
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Two unknown parts from my partsbin:
These two parts have a small note stating they are '7dB attenuators' and the note 'ptt'. The latter gives me the impression it is related to something to do with telephone technology, but I can be completely wrong. PTT used to be the national telephone operator here in The Netherlands.
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Two unknown parts from my partsbin:
These two parts have a small note stating they are '7dB attenuators' and the note 'ptt'. The latter gives me the impression it is related to something to do with telephone technology, but I can be completely wrong. PTT used to be the national telephone operator here in The Netherlands.
The circuit looks like an attenuator for a balanced line.
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Two unknown parts from my partsbin:
These two parts have a small note stating they are '7dB attenuators' and the note 'ptt'. The latter gives me the impression it is related to something to do with telephone technology, but I can be completely wrong. PTT used to be the national telephone operator here in The Netherlands.
The circuit looks like an attenuator for a balanced line.
And very generously of the manufacturers, they left it unpotted so it should be possible to measure all the components.
-
(https://www.electronics-notes.com/images/attenuator-resistive-t-section-pad-balanced.svg)
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The circuit looks like an attenuator for a balanced line.
And very generously of the manufacturers, they left it unpotted so it should be possible to measure all the components.
Sometime life is so simple... :palm: I did not look close enough (also had my mind on something else) and like CJay noticed I could have measured the individual components. Well, this evening I had the a bit of time (and a dmm with 4-wire probes) so that's what I did.
(https://www.electronics-notes.com/images/attenuator-resistive-t-section-pad-balanced.svg)
My measurements: R1/2 = 153 \$\Omega\$ (all four are almost equal as they should be), R2 = 896 \$\Omega\$ .
Using calculations from this site (https://www.radioworld.com/industry/passive-audio-attenuators) an attenuation of 7dB (as is written on the note) gives a K factor of 3.5.
The calculated impedance is 550.8 \$\Omega\$. If I measure (with a dmm, so with DC) the resistance over points Vin and over Vout (in the illustration given by PA0PBZ) I get about 1.2k \$\Omega\$ on both.
So maybe the attenuation is not 7dB? A reverse calculation of K (with Z=1.2k \$\Omega\$) gives a K=5/3 and this gives an attenuation of 3.3dB.... Hmm, was the attenuation on the note wrong of did I screw-up my measurements and/or calculations? :-//
It is getting late so first a good night sleep. :=\
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The circuit looks like an attenuator for a balanced line.
And very generously of the manufacturers, they left it unpotted so it should be possible to measure all the components.
Sometime life is so simple... :palm: I did not look close enough (also had my mind on something else) and like CJay noticed I could have measured the individual components. Well, this evening I had the a bit of time (and a dmm with 4-wire probes) so that's what I did.
(https://www.electronics-notes.com/images/attenuator-resistive-t-section-pad-balanced.svg)
My measurements: R1/2 = 153 \$\Omega\$ (all four are almost equal as they should be), R2 = 896 \$\Omega\$ .
Using calculations from this site (https://www.radioworld.com/industry/passive-audio-attenuators) an attenuation of 7dB (as is written on the note) gives a K factor of 3.5.
The calculated impedance is 550.8 \$\Omega\$. If I measure (with a dmm, so with DC) the resistance over points Vin and over Vout (in the illustration given by PA0PBZ) I get about 1.2k \$\Omega\$ on both.
So maybe the attenuation is not 7dB? A reverse calculation of K (with Z=1.2k \$\Omega\$) gives a K=5/3 and this gives an attenuation of 3.3dB.... Hmm, was the attenuation on the note wrong of did I screw-up my measurements and/or calculations? :-//
It is getting late so first a good night sleep. :=\
OK, terminate the "V out" terminals with 600 Ohms..
Now looking at the "V in" terminals you will see "near as dammit" 600 Ohms.
Swap the termination & meter ends, & you will the see the same resistance value.
The attenuation figure only works when the attenuator is terminated by, (& fed with a source of) the correct
impedance, so it looks like a 600 Ohm device.
Otherwise, all you see is a resistive network.
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OK, terminate the "V out" terminals with 600 Ohms..
Now looking at the "V in" terminals you will see "near as dammit" 600 Ohms.
Swap the termination & meter ends, & you will the see the same resistance value.
The attenuation figure only works when the attenuator is terminated by, (& fed with a source of) the correct
impedance, so it looks like a 600 Ohm device.
Otherwise, all you see is a resistive network.
Ah, off course, I forgot all about the fact of the termination. I did indeed see nothing more than the resistive network. Tried with terminating Vout with 600 \$\Omega\$ and measured (with only dmm) (pure resistive) about 750 \$\Omega\$ on the Vin.
My signal source can only output at 50 \$\Omega\$. What should be the most practical way to match the impedance of my signal source to 600 \$\Omega\$?
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OK, terminate the "V out" terminals with 600 Ohms..
Now looking at the "V in" terminals you will see "near as dammit" 600 Ohms.
Swap the termination & meter ends, & you will the see the same resistance value.
The attenuation figure only works when the attenuator is terminated by, (& fed with a source of) the correct
impedance, so it looks like a 600 Ohm device.
Otherwise, all you see is a resistive network.
Ah, off course, I forgot all about the fact of the termination. I did indeed see nothing more than the resistive network. Tried with terminating Vout with 600 \$\Omega\$ and measured (with only dmm) (pure resistive) about 750 \$\Omega\$ on the Vin.
My signal source can only output at 50 \$\Omega\$. What should be the most practical way to match the impedance of my signal source to 600 \$\Omega\$?
You could make up a 50 : 600 Ohm matching pad, or do it the rough way, with a series 550 Ohm resistor.
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Anyone any idea, what this old IC may be?
Marked as "gate array GA67A" in one of the documents.
After a bit of searching around, I am out of ideas. Couldn't find anything in PLCC68 that would have at least those three VCC/GND pairs in the corners.
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A component labeled "gate array" is a custom integrated circuit. They were also called Uncommitted Logic Arrays (ULAs).
Similar to today's FPGAs, but instead of being programmed electrically, they were programmed at the fab by a customer lithographic mask, adding a metal interconnect layer to the standard wafer. The wafers were then tested, diced, and packaged and chips sent to the customer.
So if you see a device like this, it is usually not a part that was ever sold on the open market, even though it may have markings that are in a datasheet. The most common suppliers were companies like IDT, VLSI, Ferranti, Toshiba, and AT&T.
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Likely a matched pair of transistors (guessing by the two triplets of pins) with custom part number mady by F... fairchild? Huh..
How about making some measurements? Start with diode tests. Find all PN junctions and mark their voltage drops.
Google search also came empty on my side, but I haven't tried hard enough.
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Not a real answer, or does it? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/f5152-1-info/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/f5152-1-info/)
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Not a real answer, or does it? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/f5152-1-info/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/f5152-1-info/)
Shit. I'm getting old. I forgot I posted this! My bad :(
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Where's the original post with the photos of the dual matched transistors? :-// :box:
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Looks like he removed the post in shame but if you follow the link I posted you can still admire them!
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I thought deleting posts under which other posts has been already placed is forbidden/disabled on this forum. It makes a sh!tmess out of the discussion. :-//
Either way this is not a good practice.
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Someone who can translate this:
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Electronic-Accessories_Yanchuang-100-100-0-3_C499653.html
Are these ferrite sheets?
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Someone who can translate this:
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Electronic-Accessories_Yanchuang-100-100-0-3_C499653.html
Are these ferrite sheets?
Google can translate webpages and files too.
go to
https://translate.google.com/
and in the translate box paste the link to your datasheet pdf to translate
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/2003241132_Yanchuang-100-100-0-3_C499653.pdf
then click on the link that appears in the right side box, the box where usually sits the translated phrase
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fdatasheet.lcsc.com%2Fszlcsc%2F2003241132_Yanchuang-100-100-0-3_C499653.pdf
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Someone who can translate this:
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Electronic-Accessories_Yanchuang-100-100-0-3_C499653.html
Are these ferrite sheets?
Yes :-+
-
ZH-FSMZR15
ZH = JiangXi ZhongHeng Industrial Ceramics Technology CO.,LTD
FS = ferrite sheets
MZ = Mn-Zn series
R15 = 0.15mm (ferrite thickness)
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I found some CO2 sensor modules, but I didn't get much application data for them.
Like, what to send to them over I2C or UART to make measurements, etc.
The datasheets are pretty dry. I ask for support from them but I guess they're busy.
Here are a couple things I wish I could use:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-advanced-sensors/T6713/5027891 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-advanced-sensors/T6713/5027891)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kemet/USEQGSEAC82180/11504936 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kemet/USEQGSEAC82180/11504936)
Or maybe I should ask for bigger picture component advice.
What do you do in this case, someone sells electronics that you think you want, but it's still tough to use?
I don't like this kind of situation. If I hack it together it's still a bad feeling, like I won't get support or the parts I use will disappear.
-
Just a quick ID question - can anyone identify:
Diode: Marked 62T02 and GI9774 (both on one diode, two lines) Google is no help. About the size of a 1N4002
unknown device in TO-220 package: IR9502 International Rectifier's website doesn't recognize it.
The AVR Transstortester (AVRTT) can extract most of the relevant specs from unknown components. it does this incredibly well.
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I found some CO2 sensor modules, but I didn't get much application data for them.
Like, what to send to them over I2C or UART to make measurements, etc.
The datasheets are pretty dry. I ask for support from them but I guess they're busy.
Perhaps this will be useful: https://www.14core.com/wiring-the-telaire-t6713-t67xx-a-carbon-dioxide-co2-sensor/ (https://www.14core.com/wiring-the-telaire-t6713-t67xx-a-carbon-dioxide-co2-sensor/)
https://ec.kemet.com/environmental-sensors/ (https://ec.kemet.com/environmental-sensors/) (look under "Important Links")
-
Just a quick ID question - can anyone identify:
Diode: Marked 62T02 and GI9774 (both on one diode, two lines) Google is no help. About the size of a 1N4002
unknown device in TO-220 package: IR9502 International Rectifier's website doesn't recognize it.
The AVR Transstortester (AVRTT) can extract most of the relevant specs from unknown components. it does this incredibly well.
cdev, did you realize you are one month away from quoting a ten year old post? :-DD
It is crazy how old EEVBlog is becoming... (I have been here for almost that time).
-
Just a quick ID question - can anyone identify:
Diode: Marked 62T02 and GI9774 (both on one diode, two lines) Google is no help. About the size of a 1N4002
unknown device in TO-220 package: IR9502 International Rectifier's website doesn't recognize it.
The AVR Transstortester (AVRTT) can extract most of the relevant specs from unknown components. it does this incredibly well.
Its crazy indeed, in a good way. Ive learned so much stuff here. I have been trying to remember the reason I initially came here. I remember seeing Dave make a video saying about he was going to devote himself to his business full time, and I found i really liked watching his in your face style.
But where did I see it.. LOL..
I'm sorry about quoting such an old post. I realized that after I hit send.
cdev, did you realize you are one month away from quoting a ten year old post? :-DD
It is crazy how old EEVBlog is becoming... (I have been here for almost that time).
its crazy how old I am getting, but I'm pretty happy. I have my sweetie and my health, and interests.. So I can't complain I am so much more fortunate than so many of us right now. I wish I could do more to help .
-
This is the aftermath of connecting 120VAC to a board designed for 24VDC (not me this time!). 3 components let loose magic smoke, of which 2 are unidentified (the 3rd was a 24V TVS on the other side of the board, but it was well-marked).
The mystery components here are VR6 and VR7. Neither component has any markings on them. Plain black SMDs that look just like VR8. Tested the dead components with diode mode on my meter and got 1.5V and 1.6V VF for VR7 postmortem. Got 0.5V and 0.6V VF for VR6 postmortem. VR7 measures about 4.5mm wide x 5mm long, while VR6 measures about 2.5mm wide x 3mm long. Both have a few hundred ohms resistance (depends on polarity) in either direction, though I don't recall exactly how much.
Any ideas? Neither device seems to match diodes in either appearance or dimensions, and the mysterious "VR" designation and "00" don't help any.
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This is the aftermath of connecting 120VAC to a board designed for 24VDC (not me this time!). 3 components let loose magic smoke, of which 2 are unidentified (the 3rd was a 24V TVS on the other side of the board, but it was well-marked).
The mystery components here are VR6 and VR7. Neither component has any markings on them. Plain black SMDs that look just like VR8. Tested the dead components with diode mode on my meter and got 1.5V and 1.6V VF for VR7 postmortem. Got 0.5V and 0.6V VF for VR6 postmortem. VR7 measures about 4.5mm wide x 5mm long, while VR6 measures about 2.5mm wide x 3mm long. Both have a few hundred ohms resistance (depends on polarity) in either direction, though I don't recall exactly how much.
Any ideas? Neither device seems to match diodes in either appearance or dimensions, and the mysterious "VR" designation and "00" don't help any.
My guess would be that they were surface mount varistors, though I can't guess at their value other than a withstanding voltage somewhat greater than what they're across.
-Pat
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum. The burned resistor pictured is from a heated blanket controller. I'd rather replace the resistor than the whole blanket. I used the colour coding on the one below it (they're the same), with the help of a website, to help me find the resistor I needed on ebay. The discription for the listing is as follows:
Metal Film resistors 60 different value, 5 different quantity
All resistor have 1/4W - 0.25W power dissipation and 1% tolerance rating
Values: 10 Ohm - 1 MOhm
Quantities: 1-10-20-50-100 pcs
I chose the 510 ohm resistor, and that's the one you see pictured, which is obviously very different in size but the bands look the same colour. Can anyone help me figure out which type of resistor I need to buy? Thanks :)
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum. The burned resistor pictured is from a heated blanket controller. I'd rather replace the resistor than the whole blanket. I used the colour coding on the one below it (they're the same), with the help of a website, to help me find the resistor I needed on ebay. The discription for the listing is as follows:
Metal Film resistors 60 different value, 5 different quantity
All resistor have 1/4W - 0.25W power dissipation and 1% tolerance rating
Values: 10 Ohm - 1 MOhm
Quantities: 1-10-20-50-100 pcs
I chose the 510 ohm resistor, and that's the one you see pictured, which is obviously very different in size but the bands look the same colour. Can anyone help me figure out which type of resistor I need to buy? Thanks :)
Comparing to the size of other components in your picture, they look like 1W metal film resistors.
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum. The burned resistor pictured is from a heated blanket controller. I'd rather replace the resistor than the whole blanket. I used the colour coding on the one below it (they're the same), with the help of a website, to help me find the resistor I needed on ebay. The discription for the listing is as follows:
Metal Film resistors 60 different value, 5 different quantity
All resistor have 1/4W - 0.25W power dissipation and 1% tolerance rating
Values: 10 Ohm - 1 MOhm
Quantities: 1-10-20-50-100 pcs
I chose the 510 ohm resistor, and that's the one you see pictured, which is obviously very different in size but the bands look the same colour. Can anyone help me figure out which type of resistor I need to buy? Thanks :)
Comparing to the size of other components in your picture, they look like 1W metal film resistors.
I'd agree. Here's a resource that might help you: https://www.electricalengineering.xyz/sheet/resistor-power-rating-chart/ (https://www.electricalengineering.xyz/sheet/resistor-power-rating-chart/)
You could make what you bought work, since I see you have a quantity of them. Take four of them. Put two in series to make 510+510 = 1020 ohm 1/2 watt set. Do it again to make another 1020 ohm 1/2 watt set. Then put those two sets in parallel to make a 1020/2 = 510 ohm 1 watt assembly. Wattage is about surface area, it adds up serial or parallel; the math is simple with identical value resistors. Looks like you have enough space to squeeze that in if you do it right.
Or you could go buy the proper part.
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Thank you both, I'll probably just buy a new one since they're pretty cheap, though I appreciate the suggestion, that's pretty smart ;D Just to confirm, it's definitely 510 ohm I need yes?
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Just following up, the 2 varistors were located and replaced. Sizes were 2220 and 1210. Thanks again!
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https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/lm66100 (https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/lm66100)
I use this IC as an ideal diode and I think of using it as a switch too. But there's a hitch!
LM66100 has an input called ~CE. This is a comparator with the input voltage. Not only is it active low, but to turn off the IC, this pin must be equal to or above VIN (preferably above). This is much different from a typical logic level Enable pin!
Why is this? What's the typical application where the comparator is more useful? The datasheet has some notes about reverse current blocking, is that unique to the way this is designed? Curious.
Another silly thing about this is that the ST output is high-z when enabled and output low when disabled. But we never have a case to supply power to it and disable it, therefore this output is always high-z. I guess it's nice to have something that's logically-inverted from the output voltage.
But yes, I expect to use a mosfet or simple load switch instead.
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Hi all, A friend of mine has taken his camera apart and was asking me what type of connector this is? I have been searching around and haven' found anything. Any of you guys know?
Thanks in advance
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The 130-082 is a Triac. Most likely 600V at 12A (similar to BTA12-600B). I found one in a light dimmer I am repairing that is shorted. Do you still have hundreds (or tens) of these?
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Hi All, any idea on this one, it comes from a HAM radio operators collection, so guess would be a high voltage capacitor. Measurements done (in both directions) confirm this, 6.5pF, Infinity Ohms (no diode drop). The electrodes might be aluminum just based on visual impression, so the square plate connecting the electrodes might be a dialectric. Never seen such a constuction so I would be happy about more info.
Update: Might rather be some over voltage protection / spark gap...
-
That small square thingy looks like mica.
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Hi All, any idea on this one, it comes from a HAM radio operators collection, so guess would be a high voltage capacitor. Measurements done (in both directions) confirm this, 6.5pF, Infinity Ohms (no diode drop). The electrodes might be aluminum just based on visual impression, so the square plate connecting the electrodes might be a dialectric. Never seen such a constuction so I would be happy about more info.
Update: Might rather be some over voltage protection / spark gap...
Welcome to the forum.
Yes I think that would be a good conclusion and it's probably a lightning arrestor fusible link.
Just where it would best inserted into an antenna system might be up for debate. :-//
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Hello,
Any ideas what this may be? Looks like a DFN10 with 0.5 pitch package. Search came empty and have no ida what purpose of the component is, so no help there either.
Thanx for any hints.
//have only few pictures from a phone, the first line of the marking is either 68101 or may be 681Q1 - not that sure
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I am improving on the stock thermal management that came with thisNvidia RTX 4000 GPU, which was aggressively mediocre! This a great card, every workload tore through like it's trying to show off, but sustained heavy lifting, and the black puff ofsmoke wouldsignal it's unglamorous demise, forcing me to pretty it up, lipstick on a pig style to please the RMA NVIDYITES... Anyway, I found some rectangular surface mount 2 position components marked "220" with fine print "94tpp d" written below the 220, are these resistors? Noob move to give them copper hats? [Do they benefit from heatsinks?]
I would appreciate any help, thanks.
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Those look to me to be tantalum capacitors, and shouldn't have any need for heatsinking.
-Pat
-
Can anybody advise the brand of this capacitor please? I'm pretty sure it would've been ordered from one of the mainstream online retailers (Farnell/RS/Mouser/Digikey) but my Google-fu is failing me as I can't find anything near.
Thanks!
-
SJE.
http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/ (http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/)
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SJE.
http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/ (http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/)
Cheers! :-+ I tries a couple of lookup sites but couldn't see it, I even mocked up a PNG of logo and tried a reverse image search.
That still leaves me slightly puzzled as to how it got into my "misc capacitors" box... I can only think it was a Farnell Multicomp job. In any case it's going back in the box as I need more ripple current >:(
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I've acquired a french Ferisol TOhm meter, but it came without a power cable. Does anyone know what kind of connector this is (and where i could get one)? Replacing it is not really an option, i would have to disassemble the entire instrument and there's not enough room for a normal C14 power plug.
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I can't find an online picture of that meter at all, so it's got to be old and rare. Be nice if you shared pictures of the entire unit.
You'll probably have to mold one yourself if you want to use that connector. But before that, I wouldn't apply power before looking inside. For that matter, I wouldn't make any assumptions about voltage. The switchover had started, but in the 1960's there was still a lot of France with 127V service.
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I've acquired a french Ferisol TOhm meter, but it came without a power cable. Does anyone know what kind of connector this is (and where i could get one)? Replacing it is not really an option, i would have to disassemble the entire instrument and there's not enough room for a normal C14 power plug.
I have certainly seen that kind of connector on equipment, maybe Metrix?
Later.....Just a thought! It may have been on LGT (Laboratoire general desTelecommunications) transmitter modules, as I had a lot more to do with them than Metrix, which I only used back in Tech school.
LGT later became a part of Thomson, but if it was them, whether they retained the funny connectors or not, I don't know.
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I've acquired a french Ferisol TOhm meter, but it came without a power cable. Does anyone know what kind of connector this is (and where i could get one)? Replacing it is not really an option, i would have to disassemble the entire instrument and there's not enough room for a normal C14 power plug.
Does the meter carry any identifying information such as part number, model number, date, address or similar? Would it be possible to put a ruler in the photo to help determine size?
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Does the meter carry any identifying information such as part number, model number, date, address or similar? Would it be possible to put a ruler in the photo to help determine size?
Sure, it's a Ferisol RM 210. There's not much documentation available (and i don't speak french), i only know that it's decent-ish (+/- 3%) and it's definitely a no-expense-spared instrument. The plug has an outside diameter of 16 mm (12 mm inside) and it's marked "DOS". Haven't looked for time stamps, but i'd say it's from the late 60s or 70s.
-
Ah, the larger picture answers my concern about input voltage, at least! Selectable. Which also suggests 60's.
-
Does the meter carry any identifying information such as part number, model number, date, address or similar? Would it be possible to put a ruler in the photo to help determine size?
Sure, it's a Ferisol RM 210. There's not much documentation available (and i don't speak french), i only know that it's decent-ish (+/- 3%) and it's definitely a no-expense-spared instrument. The plug has an outside diameter of 16 mm (12 mm inside) and it's marked "DOS". Haven't looked for time stamps, but i'd say it's from the late 60s or 70s.
Looking at these pix, that connector is definitely the one LGT used back in the late 1960s/early '70s.
It must have been a mainstream connector back then, most probably a French one.
I wonder if there are any trade magazines from that period on the Internet?
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Hi All, any idea on this one, it comes from a HAM radio operators collection, so guess would be a high voltage capacitor. Measurements done (in both directions) confirm this, 6.5pF, Infinity Ohms (no diode drop). The electrodes might be aluminum just based on visual impression, so the square plate connecting the electrodes might be a dialectric. Never seen such a constuction so I would be happy about more info.
Update: Might rather be some over voltage protection / spark gap...
Yes, spark gap for a balanced feedline, generally used to prevent large voltage differentials on the feedline. Normally placed with another 2 to the grounding bar, so that close by lightning strikes do not induce too high a voltage in the antenna wiring. Clip in, because it will fail for a large close strike, and short out, so easy to replace, though for large close strikes all you are likely to be left with is the end caps, the glass being blown apart by the plasma as the electrodes arc.
Not much use on modern equipment, as the input stages will not survive the let through voltage, and will blow up, but old hollow state front ends survive this without problem.
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Strange 0.25" faston connector, from an ancient John-Deere dashboard.
This gets mounted through hole on a single sided PCB, with the faston tab poking out on the non-copper side to accept a .25" faston female crimp. On the copper side, the 2 little wings are soldered to the PCB. The 2 loops form a receptacle for a double sided PCB edge connector.
Im hoping this is a commodity part and still made by someone, somewhere...
Any help appreciated.
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That's actually pretty cool! A combination of male faston + solder tabs + board edge connector receptacle.
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That's actually pretty cool! A combination of male faston + solder tabs + board edge connector receptacle.
Yeah its a clever combination of wire-to-board and board-to board. This is in a fuse panel.
Everything else on this board is AMP, and the letters stamped indeed look like a AMP with the 'P' chopped off. I have been on AMP/TE Connectivity site for hours, but cannot find this little bugger.
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I am looking to identify the component J02 over on the top right side of the PCB, I think it's a TT8J2 but would like to be sure. It is a PCB from a Sony A7r ii and this component has blown (hole in it).
[attach=1]
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Compared with the dimensions given in the TT8J2's datasheet or the pictures from Chinese sellers, the body of the component in your picture looks much wider.
-
QS8J2TR also from Rohm has the same J02 mark, but the body is wider.
https://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/discrete/transistor/mosfet/qs8j2tr-e.pdf
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QS8J2TR also from Rohm has the same J02 mark, but the body is wider.
https://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/discrete/transistor/mosfet/qs8j2tr-e.pdf
This seems to be a better fit, just confirmed it's dimensions match with a set of verniers
-
Can anyone help identify this SOT23 diode, it's just labelled 'SC9J' ?
I don't think it's going to be anything unusual, i think it's just a blocking diode in a charging circuit for a supercap
-
Can anyone help identify this SOT23 diode, it's just labelled 'SC9J' ?
I don't think it's going to be anything unusual, i think it's just a blocking diode in a charging circuit for a supercap
It's a little blurry, is there a logo in the centre?
-
I don't think so, it looks more like a moulding mark. There is also a blow hole in it!
I will try and get a better picture tomorrow
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I don't think so, it looks more like a moulding mark. There is also a blow hole in it!
I will try and get a better picture tomorrow
A blow hole? That sounds whaley bad.
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Can anyone help identify this SOT23 diode, it's just labelled 'SC9J' ?
I don't think it's going to be anything unusual, i think it's just a blocking diode in a charging circuit for a supercap
It is a SB20-03P from ON Semiconductor, and the package is SOT89 not SOT23.
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/en2985-d.pdf (https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/en2985-d.pdf)
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awesome, thanks! :-+
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I don't think so, it looks more like a moulding mark. There is also a blow hole in it!
I will try and get a better picture tomorrow
A blow hole? That sounds whaley bad.
groan! lol!
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
The only reference I can find is to an ebay store based in China, and they brand it as 'CD' :-//, but also give a complete part number LTM50EW as well as other ones with similar P/N's or state the actual frequency.
ie LTM55EW represents a 455kHz filter, the M50EW is a 450kHz filter etc. All similar footprint and probably copies of muRata parts etc.
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That looks like the Cornell Dubilier logo (in one of its variants). I couldn't find any catalogs from them for inductors.
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QS8J2TR also from Rohm has the same J02 mark, but the body is wider.
https://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/discrete/transistor/mosfet/qs8j2tr-e.pdf
This seems to be a better fit, just confirmed it's dimensions match with a set of verniers
Just a follow up and a huge thanks! The part arrived and it was exactly perfect, brought my A7R ii back from the dead. $30 including postage for the part vs $500 for another (used) main board.
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
The only reference I can find is to an ebay store based in China, and they brand it as 'CD' :-//, but also give a complete part number LTM50EW as well as other ones with similar P/N's or state the actual frequency.
ie LTM55EW represents a 455kHz filter, the M50EW is a 450kHz filter etc. All similar footprint and probably copies of muRata parts etc.
Cheers for the reply, I need 450kHz and 455kHz in different bandwidths, the LTM's are just generics so I avoid those.
muRata do manufacture these parts but I cannot find anywhere that actually sells them and muRata will not respond to any requests I've sent them directly.
TOKO originally manufactured these parts but they had a manufacturing issue and as such nearly all of them are faulty, muRata took over TOKO.
I come across this issue quite often and have to replace 4 different types of these ceramic filters on certain transceivers, others take 2 or 3.
But the only type I have found that seem to be reliable and were available are the ones with the "CD" logo, but I really need to know who they are so I can order more, I was getting these from Kenwood and Yaesu directly but they have run out of stock.
Interestingly the last batch I had that came from Kenwood were TOKO so had been in Kenwoods parts storage for some time as these haven't been manufactured for years. When they arrived the legs were black and you could clearly see the hygroscopic contamination/migration had already taken place which really adds little weight to the DC blocking argument.
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QS8J2TR also from Rohm has the same J02 mark, but the body is wider.
https://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/discrete/transistor/mosfet/qs8j2tr-e.pdf
This seems to be a better fit, just confirmed it's dimensions match with a set of verniers
Just a follow up and a huge thanks! The part arrived and it was exactly perfect, brought my A7R ii back from the dead. $30 including postage for the part vs $500 for another (used) main board.
I am very happy to hear that your camera has been repaired, and I feel so sad that you have to pay so much postage. ;D
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
The only reference I can find is to an ebay store based in China, and they brand it as 'CD' :-//, but also give a complete part number LTM50EW as well as other ones with similar P/N's or state the actual frequency.
ie LTM55EW represents a 455kHz filter, the M50EW is a 450kHz filter etc. All similar footprint and probably copies of muRata parts etc.
Cheers for the reply, I need 450kHz and 455kHz in different bandwidths, the LTM's are just generics so I avoid those.
muRata do manufacture these parts but I cannot find anywhere that actually sells them and muRata will not respond to any requests I've sent them directly.
TOKO originally manufactured these parts but they had a manufacturing issue and as such nearly all of them are faulty, muRata took over TOKO.
I come across this issue quite often and have to replace 4 different types of these ceramic filters on certain transceivers, others take 2 or 3.
But the only type I have found that seem to be reliable and were available are the ones with the "CD" logo, but I really need to know who they are so I can order more, I was getting these from Kenwood and Yaesu directly but they have run out of stock.
Interestingly the last batch I had that came from Kenwood were TOKO so had been in Kenwoods parts storage for some time as these haven't been manufactured for years. When they arrived the legs were black and you could clearly see the hygroscopic contamination/migration had already taken place which really adds little weight to the DC blocking argument.
If you know how to buy from Taobao in China, I found a seller for you:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.7.202f768dAyGRf3&id=18805169867&ns=1&abbucket=5#detail
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
The only reference I can find is to an ebay store based in China, and they brand it as 'CD' :-//, but also give a complete part number LTM50EW as well as other ones with similar P/N's or state the actual frequency.
ie LTM55EW represents a 455kHz filter, the M50EW is a 450kHz filter etc. All similar footprint and probably copies of muRata parts etc.
Cheers for the reply, I need 450kHz and 455kHz in different bandwidths, the LTM's are just generics so I avoid those.
muRata do manufacture these parts but I cannot find anywhere that actually sells them and muRata will not respond to any requests I've sent them directly.
TOKO originally manufactured these parts but they had a manufacturing issue and as such nearly all of them are faulty, muRata took over TOKO.
I come across this issue quite often and have to replace 4 different types of these ceramic filters on certain transceivers, others take 2 or 3.
But the only type I have found that seem to be reliable and were available are the ones with the "CD" logo, but I really need to know who they are so I can order more, I was getting these from Kenwood and Yaesu directly but they have run out of stock.
Interestingly the last batch I had that came from Kenwood were TOKO so had been in Kenwoods parts storage for some time as these haven't been manufactured for years. When they arrived the legs were black and you could clearly see the hygroscopic contamination/migration had already taken place which really adds little weight to the DC blocking argument.
If you know how to buy from Taobao in China, I found a seller for you:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.7.202f768dAyGRf3&id=18805169867&ns=1&abbucket=5#detail
Many thanks for the link, that is really helpful.
I just hope that is actually what they ship, not the "LTM" generics.
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
I found these on eBay... $16.80 for 20 pcs from China. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203180089011 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/203180089011)
Also on Aliexpress at $11.99 for 10 pcs. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002674796712.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002674796712.html)
HTH
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Can anyone identify the manufacturer's logo on this ceramic filter please :)
I found these on eBay... $16.80 for 20 pcs from China. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203180089011 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/203180089011)
Also on Aliexpress at $11.99 for 10 pcs. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002674796712.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002674796712.html)
HTH
Cheers, I had spotted them on Aliexpress, the trouble is it's not that specific model I need there are many different types and I can't always get all of them, some are easier than others. That's why I wanted to find out what the "CD" logo stood for to broaden my search.
M55GW and M50GT seem to be the more difficult parts to find.
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Cheers, I had spotted them on Aliexpress, the trouble is it's not that specific model I need there are many different types and I can't always get all of them, some are easier than others. That's why I wanted to find out what the "CD" logo stood for to broaden my search.
M55GW and M50GT seem to be the more difficult parts to find.
So I found some interesting stuff. Not sure if it's helpful, but maybe.
https://www.hesta.pl/en/ceramic-filters/602-amfm-murata-ceramic-filters-kit-for-kenwood-tm-v71.html (https://www.hesta.pl/en/ceramic-filters/602-amfm-murata-ceramic-filters-kit-for-kenwood-tm-v71.html)
https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p05e.ashx (https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p05e.ashx)
https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p50e.ashx (https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p50e.ashx)
https://www.murata.com/en-global/products/filter/cerafil/support/eol (https://www.murata.com/en-global/products/filter/cerafil/support/eol)
https://www.hesta.pl/en/72-ceramic-filters (https://www.hesta.pl/en/72-ceramic-filters)
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Cheers, I had spotted them on Aliexpress, the trouble is it's not that specific model I need there are many different types and I can't always get all of them, some are easier than others. That's why I wanted to find out what the "CD" logo stood for to broaden my search.
M55GW and M50GT seem to be the more difficult parts to find.
So I found some interesting stuff. Not sure if it's helpful, but maybe.
https://www.hesta.pl/en/ceramic-filters/602-amfm-murata-ceramic-filters-kit-for-kenwood-tm-v71.html (https://www.hesta.pl/en/ceramic-filters/602-amfm-murata-ceramic-filters-kit-for-kenwood-tm-v71.html)
https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p05e.ashx (https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p05e.ashx)
https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p50e.ashx (https://www.murata.com/~/media/webrenewal/support/library/catalog/products/filter/cerafil/p50e.ashx)
https://www.murata.com/en-global/products/filter/cerafil/support/eol (https://www.murata.com/en-global/products/filter/cerafil/support/eol)
https://www.hesta.pl/en/72-ceramic-filters (https://www.hesta.pl/en/72-ceramic-filters)
Thank's for the muRata datasheets, there are some full part numbers in those which help me with my search. But so far everything has come back with Obsolute.
I came across that Polish Hesta site a few months back, I got my friend in Poland to communicate with them and they said they do not actually have stock, those pages are just there as placeholders or for Google to find their site :palm:
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I came across that Polish Hesta site a few months back, I got my friend in Poland to communicate with them and they said they do not actually have stock, those pages are just there as placeholders or for Google to find their site :palm:
Unfortunately several of these part procurement sites are like that: full of "vapourware"...
-
I have a consumer DAC chip I can't identify. Takes both coax and optical inputs. Does 24b/192khz. Says 1618 A9D1D on the 28 pin SSOP. Any ideas?
-
1618 without brand marking? I wonder if it's a knockoff of the TI PCM1681. HTSSOP-28 with 24-bit 192-kHz DAC.
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pcm1681.pdf (https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pcm1681.pdf)
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Good try but no dice. The 1681 is 8 channel but this dac is 2 channel. Also this one takes digital from the right and spits analog out to the left whereas most TI's do the opposite.
-
Maybe something closer like the AD1853 (https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/AD1853.pdf) or AD1955 (https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/AD1955.pdf)?
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I'll have to trace the pinouts but yes I think it might be an Analog Devices clone of some kind or maybe a Cirrus. The board has a 2019 date on the silkscreen but I am certain it's an obsolete part that was cloned.
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Does anyone recognise this type of encoder please? It's an Alps brand quadrature but I can't seem to find it on the 'net. The only markings are the "Alps" name and "140r" but Google doesn't throw up anything useful.
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@nali: This really look like a potentiometer, you sure that is an encoder (continuous rotation and giving pulses) and not a variable resistor, I've never seen this this stile of ALps encoders, even for the panel mounts ?
https://wittko.eu/product-alpha-rv16af-potentiometer-16mm-10k-lin-achse-6x15mm-metall
Could you measure in between the side contacts and/or center and one side with an ohmeter and rotate the shat ?
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Looks a potentiometer to me... 140 Ohm perhaps, though it seems a weird value. A simple test with an Ohm meter would tell.
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Does anyone recognise this type of encoder please? It's an Alps brand quadrature but I can't seem to find it on the 'net. The only markings are the "Alps" name and "140r" but Google doesn't throw up anything useful.
In case is an actual encoder maybe you find some compatible one (same shaft length, diameter) on Leo Bodnar's store:
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_75&products_id=191 (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_75&products_id=191)
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@nali: This really look like a potentiometer, you sure that is an encoder (continuous rotation and giving pulses) and not a variable resistor, I've never seen this this stile of ALps encoders, even for the panel mounts ?
https://wittko.eu/product-alpha-rv16af-potentiometer-16mm-10k-lin-achse-6x15mm-metall
Could you measure in between the side contacts and/or center and one side with an ohmeter and rotate the shat ?
Nope, it's 100% a quadrature encoder. I've had them in my parts bin for ages, and used them for breadboarding but now I wanted to use them for a project so was hoping to find a datasheet mainly to get the mechanical details of the locating pin for a panel I'm 3D printing.
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Mechanical details are trivial. One shaft, one locating pin. Three measurements (shaft diameter, pin diameter, distance between them) with a caliper will give you everything you need to know to drill a panel. Test on some scrap to be sure, and if it's right you just made a template.
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Mechanical details are trivial. One shaft, one locating pin. Three measurements (shaft diameter, pin diameter, distance between them) with a caliper will give you everything you need to know to drill a panel. Test on some scrap to be sure, and if it's right you just made a template.
Sure, and that's what I'll do - if I don't find a datasheet. I'll be 3D printing BTW not drilling so it's measure / print / try /change... much easier if one has the dimensions to start with :)
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Sure, and that's what I'll do - if I don't find a datasheet. I'll be 3D printing BTW not drilling so it's measure / print / try /change... much easier if one has the dimensions to start with :)
Looks like manufacturers have done away with the circular tab, most likely because flat tabs that fit in circular holes (or even slots the width of the locator) should work just fine.
So I got to thinking (after looking at dozens of pots with similar pins) that these anti-rotation pins are most likely going to fit the same hole pattern regardless of functionality. Why reinvent the wheel? So I found a couple of images with dimensions and thought perhaps one would be a match...
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Thanks... but unfortunately they don't :( These encoders are a bit larger than most pots and the dimensions don't match. It's not a huge problem as I can measure them as accuately as I need to in order to be able to mount them, I was really just hoping someone might recognise the part which would let me find a datasheet.
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Can anyone ID the card edge connector on this board on Amazon? I'd like to spin a custom board to interface to these power supplies. I'd like to use an edge connector thats 90 degrees to the board instead of inline. Not mining related - I just want to mount a bunch of 12v barrel jacks onto a board to some SBCs.
https://www.amazon.com/XT-XINTE-Supply-Server-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B07G13TNMH/ (https://www.amazon.com/XT-XINTE-Supply-Server-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B07G13TNMH/)
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Can anyone ID the card edge connector on this board on Amazon? I'd like to spin a custom board to interface to these power supplies. I'd like to use an edge connector thats 90 degrees to the board instead of inline. Not mining related - I just want to mount a bunch of 12v barrel jacks onto a board to some SBCs.
https://www.amazon.com/XT-XINTE-Supply-Server-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B07G13TNMH/ (https://www.amazon.com/XT-XINTE-Supply-Server-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B07G13TNMH/)
Maybe this? You'll have to confirm number of positions, pitch, card thickness are within specs and that it's the mounting style you want.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1761468-1/2310803 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1761468-1/2310803)
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Thank you, that appears to be it. Using that part information, I was able to find a 90° version of the connector. Looks like 64 pins divided into 32 into two rows.
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Interesting coincidence. I found a similar search (https://forum.digikey.com/t/server-power-supply-board-edge-connector/7984) yesterday. Might provide additional information...
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Hi all - my search abilities are failing me. This:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Electronics/HP-1120-1526-Nixie-Digital-Panel-Meter/i-w83gLsm/0/2274ac07/L/HP%201120-15265%20V%20Reg%20pass%20transistor-L.jpg)
is the 5 V regulator pass transistor used in an HP 1120-1526 digital panel meter and appears to be an NPN. It is located at the top along the right edge of the image below, this is the solder-side view of the board and the transistor is viewed from the bottom; yellow is the unregulated feed into the collector and turquoise is the 5 V regulated line.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Electronics/HP-1120-1526-Nixie-Digital-Panel-Meter/i-9ZHCWCZ/0/66d0b9c9/L/HP%201120-1526%20Front%20Bd%20Composite%20BW-L.jpg)
I'm currently working further to reverse engineer the regulator circuit, but would like to find the specs on the pass transistor. Anybody recognize the old RCA part number?
Thanks.
-Pat
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Not in this Pat ?
http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf (http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf)
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Not in this Pat ?
http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf (http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf)
I don't recognize it as an HP part number - it's part of a digital panel meter that they bought as a sub assembly; it was made by Analogic in Wakefield, MA, rather than HP.
-Pat
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Not in this Pat ?
http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf (http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf)
I don't recognize it as an HP part number - it's part of a digital panel meter that they bought as a sub assembly; it was made by Analogic in Wakefield, MA, rather than HP.
-Pat
Ah okay....drawing a blank too in books and searches here. :-//
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Not in this Pat ?
http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf (http://hparchive.com/PARTS/HP-Parts-List-1973-74.pdf)
I don't recognize it as an HP part number - it's part of a digital panel meter that they bought as a sub assembly; it was made by Analogic in Wakefield, MA, rather than HP.
-Pat
Ah okay....drawing a blank too in books and searches here. :-//
Appreciate the suggestions nonetheless. Thanks!
-Pat
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RCA house coded part, done so you went to the original manufacturer for replacement parts. But being made in 1974, not going to be a very beefy transistor, or anything special. Probably easy to replace with almost any NPN power device, like a TIP31C, which likely has plenty of SOA margin, seeing likely 5V supply has 15V input and no more than 1A load maximum, limited more by the heatsinking than anything else.
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RCA house coded part, done so you went to the original manufacturer for replacement parts. But being made in 1974, not going to be a very beefy transistor, or anything special. Probably easy to replace with almost any NPN power device, like a TIP31C, which likely has plenty of SOA margin, seeing likely 5V supply has 15V input and no more than 1A load maximum, limited more by the heatsinking than anything else.
That explains why all my searches came up blank. Thanks for the help, Sean. It’s more likely to be an issue with the circuitry driving the pass transistor, but thought it would be nice to know its specs, too. Back to the fun of figuring out what's what on the hand laid out board…
-Pat
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I need help identifying/replacing some relays: My HP LCR meter seems to have a fault in the H cur section, looks like at least one relay in the signal path has failed. The relays are Matsushita NR-HD-12 and they have some weird 7 pin configuration, i haven't been able to find replacement relays with that pin configuration.
Yes, i know that you can find them "new" on ebay, just tried that and got desoldered and broken relays and i'm not in the mood of playing relay roulette again anytime soon so i'm looking for new relays from component distributors.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
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Well you have a sample with the pinout and pin measurements so now you only need measure the coil resistance and go shopping for 12V relays that match.
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Well you have a sample with the pinout and pin measurements so now you only need measure the coil resistance and go shopping for 12V relays that match.
That's not the problem, you can find the datasheet for this relay on the internet. My problem is that i don't know what form factor it has since pretty much every relay that i could find either has six or eight pins, but not seven pins where one of the pins is between the two rows of pins.
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Well you have a sample with the pinout and pin measurements so now you only need measure the coil resistance and go shopping for 12V relays that match.
That's not the problem, you can find the datasheet for this relay on the internet. My problem is that i don't know what form factor it has since pretty much every relay that i could find either has six or eight pins, but not seven pins where one of the pins is between the two rows of pins.
I haven't seen this pinout either, but it's definitely a "form C" relay (SPDT, break before make). I found this seller in Australia claiming it's "brand new".
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/283835807688 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/283835807688)
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I'm struggling to ID this SOT23-6 part. It's marked "R30wV", and it's a buck converter.
(I did find a Toyo part with the similar marking but that was a LDO)
Also, these are the sites I have bookmarked for lookups... can anyone suggest any others?
www.smdmark.com (http://www.smdmark.com)
www.marsport.org.uk (http://www.marsport.org.uk)
www.s-manuals.com (http://www.s-manuals.com)
connectorbook.com
Thanks
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I'm struggling to ID this SOT23-6 part. It's marked "R30wV", and it's a buck converter.
(I did find a Toyo part with the similar marking but that was a LDO)
Also, these are the sites I have bookmarked for lookups... can anyone suggest any others?
www.smdmark.com (http://www.smdmark.com)
www.marsport.org.uk (http://www.marsport.org.uk)
www.s-manuals.com (http://www.s-manuals.com)
connectorbook.com
Thanks
AP65111A
https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0013030248_1-2543852.pdf (https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0013030248_1-2543852.pdf)
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AP65111A
https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0013030248_1-2543852.pdf (https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0013030248_1-2543852.pdf)
That looks like the one! :-+ Where did you find it?
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AP65111A
https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0013030248_1-2543852.pdf (https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0013030248_1-2543852.pdf)
That looks like the one! :-+ Where did you find it?
www.taobao.com (http://www.taobao.com)
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Hi fellas :-) .
I'd like to identify an SMD part, actually an SOT363 (or SOT23-6, if my searches haven't mistaken me). The part is marked GHU (I swear that's how it looks like when I put it under magnifying glasses :D ) and it's from a Samsung phone charger (not mine actually) that was lent me for repairing the USB connector. The chip case is exactly 3mm x 1.5mm (length x width), which is slightly different from the standard values I came across but I guess that's not too much important.
Here's the picture, attached. The part is illustrated on the PCB.
Tech data: the output is advertised 5V DC @ 700mA. The charger model number is ETA0U10EBE. (Made in China, of course!)
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No idea but it looks like GNU rather than GHU and maybe an Advanced Analogue Circuits logo
https://www.ecadata.de/ddv/myfindherst.php?CHERST=Aac&F_SPRACHE=2 (https://www.ecadata.de/ddv/myfindherst.php?CHERST=Aac&F_SPRACHE=2)
[attachimg=1]
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[...] it looks like GNU rather than GHU [...]
Hmmm... I don't think so. It's really GHU. Picture taken under magnifying glass and another angle. Although it's blurry, I can tell that's how it appears with a steady hand :D .
Good spot for the company logo though :-+
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[...] it looks like GNU rather than GHU [...]
Hmmm... I don't think so. It's really GHU. Picture taken under magnifying glass and another angle. Although it's blurry, I can tell that's how it appears with a steady hand :D .
Good spot for the company logo though :-+
The logo and the marking pattern indicate that it is from BCD Semiconductor (now Diodes), which looks like AP3105, but only GHN/GHO/GHP/GHQ in the datasheet, no GHU :-//
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The logo and the marking pattern indicate that it is from BCD Semiconductor (now Diodes), which looks like AP3105, but only GHN/GHO/GHP/GHQ in the datasheet, no GHU :-//
Yup, that's the main reason I posted here :-//. I did find "GHU" references over there (https://smd.yooneed.one/code4748.html) but no GNU.
But anyway thanks for finding the relevant part :-+ AP3105 makes sense, by the looks of it.
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[...] it looks like GNU rather than GHU [...]
OK, yes, definitely GHU in the 2nd photo.
I see you tracked down the part now though :-+
-
I'm having trouble find any kind of specs or data for this chip.
It's in a bluetooth audio adapter.
Chips reads: NNOD151T UHQ696
Also what company is 'AB'?
TIA
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I'm having trouble find any kind of specs or data for this chip.
It's in a bluetooth audio adapter.
Chips reads: NNOD151T UHQ696
Also what company is 'AB'?
TIA
It comes from Bluetrum (中科蓝汛), a Chinese manufacturer with Bluetooth SOC as their main product, and they don't have any technical information on their website.
http://www.bluetrum.com/ (http://www.bluetrum.com/)
Looks like AB137A:
http://www.bluetrum.com/product/ab137a.html (http://www.bluetrum.com/product/ab137a.html)
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I don't think that's it.
If you translate the page, the specs for the AB137A says
" Built-in charging: not support ", and
" Bluetooth protocol: none "
This chip does charge the lithium pouch cell from USB.
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Difficult company to get info on... possibly AB5317B: http://www.ch-chip.com/en/ab5317b.html (http://www.ch-chip.com/en/ab5317b.html)
Schematic: http://www.ch-chip.com/Data/ch-chip/upload/file/20200904/2020050688071594-11.pdf (http://www.ch-chip.com/Data/ch-chip/upload/file/20200904/2020050688071594-11.pdf)
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I don't think that's it.
If you translate the page, the specs for the AB137A says
" Built-in charging: not support ", and
" Bluetooth protocol: none "
This chip does charge the lithium pouch cell from USB.
Yes you are right, I didn't scroll down that page. |O
They have other chips that in SOP16 package, support Bluetooth audio, and build-in charging. like this one:
http://www.bluetrum.com/product/ab5607e.html (http://www.bluetrum.com/product/ab5607e.html)
-
Also... stereo or mono?
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Hello I Hope you all will be fine.
S i have an EEPROM for which i cant find the right datasheet. i do know that it is microchip eeprom and is atleast 7 or 8 years old.(Plz See Pic). The Marking is ATMLH150
Main problem is i want to read the chip but until i know the right name for it i cannot be shure that i am reading the right chip or not..
So please help..
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Well, it's an eeprom chip. It was made by Atmel which is now part of Microchip
The ## part tells the truncation code (a sort of unique ID)
Example from AT24MAC402 (2 kbit eprom with i2c) datasheet
ATMLHYWW
## M @
AAAAAAAA
AT24MAC402 Truncation Code ##: P4
AT24MAC602 Truncation Code ##: P6
Date Codes
Y = Year
2: 2012 6: 2016
3: 2013 7: 2017
4: 2014 8: 2018
5: 2015 9: 2019
M = Month
A: January
B: February
...
L: December
WW = Work Week of Assembly
01: Week 1
02: Week 2
..
52: Week 52
## truncated part code
M: 1.7V min
@ : country where it's made
AAAA =
and so on .....
So yours is ATMLH , maybe from 2011, week 50
2F or 2FB would be the truncation code
later edit:
In this post here : https://www.eevblog.com/forum/programming/atmlu-eeproms-marked-atmlu-identification/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/programming/atmlu-eeproms-marked-atmlu-identification/)
There's 2FB listed as AT24C512B (512K as 65,536 x 8) : http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/doc5297.pdf (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/doc5297.pdf)
It's obsolete, replaced by AT24C512C
-
Thank You @Mariush for the great response. Honestly i did not thought someone will reply here. so thanks for that
the complete no is
ATMLH150
2FB 2
@1H0064a
A local shop is quoting 24c02 for its replacement. is it right part for this???
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Well, it would probably be pin compatible, but the amount of bytes of eeprom memory would be different.
If the original has 512 Kbit of data ( AT24C512B, 65536 x 8 bits ) you could replace with a 24C02 with only 2 Kbit of memory but if something tries to read or write data from above that 2 Kbit threshold, everything's gonna go bad, because there's no memory there.
Ideally you would get a programmer to read the chip contents and see how much data actually is stored in the chip, then get an eeprom with suitable size and same pinout.
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Hello mariush thanks again for the reply
so i have an XGECU t56 programmer. i have disoldered the part and put it in it. Select AT24c512b@SOIC 8. Read it. There is seems to be data there.
Now a question
How could i know how much data is stored there. Like where it is written or i have to calculate it myself from the buffer
Thanks
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Open the export using a hexadecimal viewer / editor or use the viewer of the programmer to see the data
Empty / unused area will usually be full of either 0xFF or 0x00 bytes.
So for example, if you see random bytes in the first 128 KB range and then everything is FF bytes, there's a good chance the circuit or whatever used that eeprom reads and writes data only from the first 16 KB
See picture below, where I use HxD (freeware hex editor / viewer) to open a random binary file ... it shows 16 bytes per line, and on the far left column it shows the offset in the file - the last fully visible line in the picture has offset 0x 0000 0200 or 200 in hexadecimal, which is 512 in decimal ... so if I see only FF or 00 from that point, I could assume only the first 512 bytes are used by the device or that it was actually a 512 byte eeprom chip and not a 64 Kbit (8 KB) chip.
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PLEASE HELP WITH HIGH VOLTAGE DIODE TYPE NUMBER
diameter 3mm
length of body 15mm
forward voltage 17V at 10mA
Color codes wide green = cathode
then a red ring
and then maybe a black ring on the black body, it is impossible to photo
but on some of them i feel like i can barely see it, but i am a bit unsure.
i got a very large bag of them, i can ofcourse measure the brake down voltage,
but i prefer to know real data and real type number,
any suggestions ?
more news 0.58pF and 58Meg ohm at zero volts
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PLEASE HELP WITH HIGH VOLTAGE DIODE TYPE NUMBER
diameter 3mm
length of body 15mm
forward voltage 17V at 10mA
Color codes wide green = cathode
...
Candidate: https://www.hvproducts.de/axial_lead_low_current_high_voltage_diodes (https://www.hvproducts.de/axial_lead_low_current_high_voltage_diodes)
Could be those guys: https://www.hvproducts.de/gfs_series_high_voltage_diodes (https://www.hvproducts.de/gfs_series_high_voltage_diodes)
or these:
http://hvp.kr/uploaded/category/data_2CL2_HV37_UX_Series_page_8.pdf (http://hvp.kr/uploaded/category/data_2CL2_HV37_UX_Series_page_8.pdf)
cheers,
DC1MC
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73 DL1MC thanks a lot for your time and help
none of the suggested diodes matches the size of my diode type.
more news i measured 0.58pF and 58Meg ohm at zero volts
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Hi All
Repairing an Industrial PC Powersupply.
This Component has gone short circuit. It is in Parallel with several electrolytic caps, so I presume it is a cap.
I have not tried to power it up without this, as I don't want it to cause any more damage if it is essential.
I have searched on ST, and on google, but cannot find it.
Any suggestions / what it is?
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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Hi All
Repairing an Industrial PC Powersupply.
This Component has gone short circuit. It is in Parallel with several electrolytic caps, so I presume it is a cap.
I have not tried to power it up without this, as I don't want it to cause any more damage if it is essential.
I have searched on ST, and on google, but cannot find it.
Any suggestions / what it is?
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looks like SM15T36CA : https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/sm15t36ca.pdf (https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/sm15t36ca.pdf)
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Thank you.
That looks like what it is. It is starting up without the ESD Protection.
I will order a replacement shortly.
Peter
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Hi all
I have several of these IC, but haven't been able to find any data about it, not even the manufacturer.
Any advice ?
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@saposoft Is an EPROM for a musical instrument: Kurzweil K1000SE
https://www.wolfteck.com/2020/06/23/kurzweil_k1000se_components/ (https://www.wolfteck.com/2020/06/23/kurzweil_k1000se_components/)
See U51
Cheers,
DC1MC - your friendly googler :-DD
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I recently came into possesion of a batch of TO-3 NPN transistors marked "LDS 2000" with a B or C suffix. They were made in 1987 (NOS), have quite a low gain of 12-14, and the CE breakdown voltage is around 850, and seems survivable, at least for the few times I've tested it.
Anyone familiar with this part, and knows of a datasheet/cross reference to another? My google-fu has proved insufficient to the task, and it's not in my TITS either (update 5).
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Which temperature and humidity sensor is labeled 271R? This is from a Sonoff SNZB-02, I am investigating whether I could hook up an external sensor.
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Try HDC1080 - if it fits, you should be able to read the manufacturer and device ID via the I2C bus.
[attach=1]
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Thanks Andy! This is most likely the correct chip, I did find a few entries in Google now that I know the chip name: https://github.com/smartboxchannel/SONOFF-SNZB-02-Temperature-and-humidity-sensor
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Try HDC1080 - if it fits, you should be able to read the manufacturer and device ID via the I2C bus.
(Attachment Link)
Good job! :-+
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This is the circuit board from a Arccos 10822-A Caddy. It mounts on the handle of a golf club and records stroke data. The PCB diameter is the same as a CR2032 battery. I could not find information on the chips. The markings are "MGC X220 5ROA" and "8214 C3H 068AJ" I think.
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C3H: LIS3DHTR Accelerometer
If there's nothing else on the board the other one must be some kind of processor but I fail to find it.
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MGC: PIC16LF1503T-I/MG
https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/40001607D.pdf
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Nuts! Just seeing this thread. I just posted a request for help identifying this:
[attach=1]
It’s in a Harvey Bandmaster TBS-50C and is not on the schematic though it appears original as it has the same rivets used everywhere else in the rig. Measures a dead short and about .0001 Picofarads. Useless. Except for shorting 8K of 5watt resistors. Also, not in the schematic. Aahhhhhhhh! Stop doing that whomever you are. You are driving me crazy. I think think there is one guy out there that buys all the old ham radio gear and sabotages them with random parts and useless mods and then sells them again for fun.
Thanks for the help.
Wes
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Hello
Please tell me what is the correct name for tips similar to 900M, but in which the inner diameter is not 4 mm, but 4.3-4.4 mm?
And what is soldering irons those use it?
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Hello
Please tell me what is the correct name for tips similar to 900M, but in which the inner diameter is not 4 mm, but 4.3-4.4 mm?
And what is soldering irons those use it?
The are usually known a "Chinese crap" and are used on other Chinese crap that doesn't work well due to lack of thermal contact, because well, every miserable shop in China could produce garbage similar with that:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/403855237067 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/403855237067)
but the heating element is only done by a couple of companies and the size is standardized. The size difference is most likely due to lack of internal plating.
I know someone who tries to save them by warping the heating element into a thin foil of copper and forcing them, but the results are crap, do it only if you're desperate, otherwise discard.
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Nuts! Just seeing this thread. I just posted a request for help identifying this:
Did you measure if it has inductance? Could be an RF choke.
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Replying to post 1793. The flat part riveted to the chassis is a "Candohm" (canned ohm) wirewound resistor, a construction style that turned out to be notorious for going open-circuit. (Also for leaking to the chassis but I'd guess that wasn't the case here.) Some hobbyist reached into his junk box and found two cylinder-and-lug type resistors with the same total resistance and bridged them across the open part which is now a terminal strip :) . It's a perfectly acceptable repair except sloppily done.
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I'm trying to figure out where to get either a connector like this or (even better) a cable with the connector already on it. This connects to an android tablet which is the controller to a Core 9000 massage chair. I believe that either the cable has a break or the connector is bad because moving it from one side to the to other would cause the tablet to lose power (apparently it doesn't have a battery). It finally stopped working altogether and here we are.
This is under warranty but the manufacturer's support is absolutely terrible. It's been months and they still can't get a part, don't call back, etc so I've decided to try to fix it myself against my wife's wishes. Does anyone know how to find a part number of something equivalent that would let me get this thing working again? The other end of the cable is a connector with large pins (not a DIN though), so I'm not worried about getting that side connected.
Thanks,
-David
[attach=1]
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Having a ruler or other reference in the picture will make it easier to know the size and pitch, to me they look like Hirose DF14 connectors.
https://www.hirose.com/en/product/document?clcode=&productname=&series=DF14&documenttype=Catalog&lang=en&documentid=D31686_en (https://www.hirose.com/en/product/document?clcode=&productname=&series=DF14&documenttype=Catalog&lang=en&documentid=D31686_en)
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Perfect! Thank you! I knew I would forget something. They are indeed 1.25mm pitch.
-David
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Trying to source a small DC motor (from a coffee frother). Photo shows the style, and it is 24 x 18 (x 31). I can find plenty which are apparently of style '130', but those are typically 20 x 15. Anyone know either where I can get one, or what magic term to use to find one?
(It is being driven from a Li-Ion battery, so around 4V).
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Googling for "dc motor 24x18" brings up quite a few results, including e.g. this one as the second result for me:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32695939229.html
I guess the shaft diameter will be another critical dimension though -- not sure how many common ones there are?
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Thanks. Dunno why I didn't think of that :palm:
Er, any idea how to get Aliexpress back to English? I clicked your link and now I end up with the German site regardless of how I get there :(
No matter - got there in the end. Clicked the mobile button then in the upper right was the option to go to the global site, and then I could choose my language and that. Phew.
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Er, any idea how to get Aliexpress back to English? I clicked your link and now I end up with the German site regardless of how I get there :(
No matter - got there in the end. Clicked the mobile button then in the upper right was the option to go to the global site, and then I could choose my language and that. Phew.
Oops -- sorry about that! I had actually removed some strange "?...GER..." suffix from the link and thought it would be generic. Too much "intelligence" at work behind the scenes at AliExpress...
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It's a pretty standard 3-12V (it'll scream at that voltage) motor found in all sorts of things, including Scalextric. Someone recently sold a job-lot on the forum as it happens...
Anyway, obligatory ebay link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264063761245 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264063761245)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qTAAAOSwAxVi6Ory/s-l1600.jpg)
(NAWTS, many other vendors are available)
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Thanks, but those are all the '130' style which is too small (20x15 rather than 24x18). Shorter, too.
As it happens, because the right sized one will take forever to arrive I've ordered a couple of 130s with the idea that I might be able to apply packing. They are a push fit into the housing so need the fill the space pretty accurately.
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Had the motor apart to see what the problem is (actually did this yesterday before looking for a replacement, of course). Photo shows the literal brushes.
I have a box of bigger motors, all circular so not suitable, which use actual carbon brushes on shaped copper strips. I nicked the brushes out of one of those motors and then cut and trimmed the copper so it would slide in next to the existing non-brushes of this one. Very crude, only held in place by friction and I didn't expect it to achieve anything, but the thing actually works again! I think when this bodge fails (which it must do quite soon) I might try and more sensible adaptation of proper brushes and see if it will last longer then.
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Trying to source a small DC motor (from a coffee frother). Photo shows the style, and it is 24 x 18 (x 31). I can find plenty which are apparently of style '130', but those are typically 20 x 15. Anyone know either where I can get one, or what magic term to use to find one?
(It is being driven from a Li-Ion battery, so around 4V).
And I just pointed out someone not reading a post properly yesterday... my bad :-DD |O
Try these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314368738961 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314368738961)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255185797594 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255185797594)
Basically it's a 280-type motor.
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Doing a little reverse engineering and I'm fairly certain these are transistors for a switching amplifier but can't figure out who makes them or what exactly they are. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Try these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314368738961 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314368738961)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255185797594 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255185797594)
Brilliant, thanks. The shaft is too long but shortening it must surely be simpler than lengthening it :)
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Brilliant, thanks. The shaft is too long but shortening it must surely be simpler than lengthening it :)
Ooooh Matron!
(https://scontent.flba3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/53065674_10151205359484955_1070184289703821312_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=euO9sA-PBugAX-cf2fa&_nc_ht=scontent.flba3-1.fna&oh=00_AfAQdQu7UXdo_Rjac-ysMKr1u15q1ylsPVqNK7dX-_TD2Q&oe=643A36DA)
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Doing a little reverse engineering and I'm fairly certain these are transistors for a switching amplifier but can't figure out who makes them or what exactly they are. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Looks like the Fairchild logo
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Doing a little reverse engineering and I'm fairly certain these are transistors for a switching amplifier but can't figure out who makes them or what exactly they are. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Could be HUF76629D:
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/huf76629d3s-d.pdf (https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/huf76629d3s-d.pdf)
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Can anybody help me identifying this device and give me some specs on it?
Got it on eBay, since I wanted a DC Blocks for my HP 8563A SA, but I cannot find anywhere any specs for this : "TEKTRONIX PICOSECOND PULSE LABS 5500 dc block blocking capacitor 80khz to 26ghz"
(https://i.imgur.com/jKO2SO1l.jpg)
The label says "model 5550" indeed and I have also found some docs about the 5500 series, but mine is not there, only a "5500A", in addition the form factor is completely different ( shorter in the doc specs ).
http://woojoohitech.com/pages/pdf/5508_SPEC-4040030.pdf (http://woojoohitech.com/pages/pdf/5508_SPEC-4040030.pdf)
Many thanks in advance !
Ciao
Andrea
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Hi everyone!
I've got this display, it's a LED dot-matrix 5x7, 9 characters + commas. I have no info on it whatsoever.
Can anyone here recognize it? Or maybe, the calculator model it was apparently taken from?
(https://i.imgur.com/sFNk3bf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DNJnHEm.jpeg)
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Hello!
I'm looking for any info on AT&T 16801b, 5 pin, found in '96 lexus. It's used to drive a solenoid valve from a PWM signal. I checked AT&T selection guides from '88, '93 and '95 and nothing. Google - nothing. Some people suggested that NEC D16801 might be a replacement, but also no datasheet, no specs, nothing in the selection guides. Might it be a custom part number for toyota? Can anyone shed some light on this puppy?
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Hello!
I'm looking for any info on AT&T 16801b, 5 pin, found in '96 lexus. It's used to drive a solenoid valve from a PWM signal. I checked AT&T selection guides from '88, '93 and '95 and nothing. Google - nothing. Some people suggested that NEC D16801 might be a replacement, but also no datasheet, no specs, nothing in the selection guides. Might it be a custom part number for toyota? Can anyone shed some light on this puppy?
https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/BTS425L1.html
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Thanks!
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Hi! Is this a common "component", and does anyone know what it might be called? It's a springy clamp that was strain-relieving the connection of a flat cable to the PCB. The cable was folded around the edge of the PCB, and the cable and PCB were sandwiched by this clamp. Thanks!
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search for "EMI fingers"
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Hi all.
I have this Dc connector and DC socket. I would like to know what the name of these connector and socket is please?
Tried googling and similar but don't have much to go on.
The socket is part of a nimh battery pack 4s.
The connector is part of the charger.
Thanks
Steven
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I don't know, but it looks very similar to the one end of this https://www.bixpower.com/product-p/cnt-dc23.htm (https://www.bixpower.com/product-p/cnt-dc23.htm)
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Hello,
does anybody know this type of through-hole (IR) LED-package?
-
What a strange package. Seems they are inserted into a non-plated through hole and the anode and cathode are the body at each end, which is soldered to the annular pad.
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All the flip chip IR LEDs I've seen also have a body that goes through the PCB, but both pins are on the back side, this one is really special!
-
Hi
I hope you all will be doing great.
can anybody identify this component plz. it is an SOT23-6, 6 pin device used in microscope LED Light. it is the main chip on this controlling pcb so my guess is led current controller ic, but can not find any datasheet for this. the pcb is marked with 1s6067a.
Note# if u zoom in on the pic u can see the marking as well as the whole pcb...
thanks
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my guess is led current controller ic
I don't know what it is either, but my guess is a boost converter to bump up the 5V to something a string of LEDs can use. Of course, that can current limit as well, but I don't think that's the primary function (of the chip).
-
I agree, boost converter, you can see the coil and the diode on the pcb. Probably something like an SX1308.
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Hi
I hope you all will be doing great.
can anybody identify this component plz. it is an SOT23-6, 6 pin device used in microscope LED Light. it is the main chip on this controlling pcb so my guess is led current controller ic, but can not find any datasheet for this. the pcb is marked with 1s6067a.
Note# if u zoom in on the pic u can see the marking as well as the whole pcb...
thanks
RY3715
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2201121700_RYCHIP-Semiconductor-Inc--RY3715_C2935131.pdf
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RY3715
Blimey. Well spotted!
-
Thanks @PlainName @gamalot @PA0PBZ
You have saved me. The RY3715 seems to be right due to the input voltage of 5.5v (which is USB Voltage). All other Spec seem to be equivalent to each other. so i will order the ry3715 and will see.
Regards
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I found these ICs among an old hobbyist's stock which was donated to our hackspace, and can't find any data about them. They appear to be early (1978) Texas Instruments surface mount chips, clipped into plastic carriers. Part number is SN6331.
Can anyone enlighten me, please?
-
Hi there,
I hope someone can help me out. The connector shown is from a 1997 Toyota Starlet, it makes connections to the fuel pump and the level sender unit. My objective is to purchase the tab contacts; I can reuse this rectangular connector.
How about that company logo shown top-left? A 45 deg rotated hash sign. On one of its sides of this connector there is the number 10796.
Any information about the manufacturer and product series?
Thanks!
-
That is the logo of Sumitomo Wiring Systems (https://www.sws.co.jp/en/).
What is the pin pitch of the connector? How wide are the contacts? Is it sealed or unsealed? That is, where the wires enter the connector body, are there rubber seals?
I don't think that number is the part number, as their part numbers are of the format XXXX-YYYY.
From the shape, it looks like it may be Sumitomo TS series, although that white latching flap thing on the back is not a feature of anything I can see in a 2009 catalogue. Maybe if you try looking for a copy of an older product catalogue from the '90s you may find it.
Edit: I found this document: https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf (https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf.). It seems that number is a Toyota part number. That particular connector is listed there. They list it as having type "2.3 II" terminals. You should be able to buy these terminals from various places. They might also be the same as Yazaki "090II" terminals.
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Oh wow, Thanks for sharing. The pitch is about 4mm the tab width is about 2.2mm. the other row is at a 5mm distance.
Let's check that document right now.
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I found these ICs among an old hobbyist's stock which was donated to our hackspace, and can't find any data about them. They appear to be early (1978) Texas Instruments surface mount chips, clipped into plastic carriers. Part number is SN6331.
Can anyone enlighten me, please?
Probably variant of SN5331 (Triple 3-Imput Nand/Nor gate, series Modified DTL) The Flatpack style hints at space- or missile grade. OTOH, some computing applications used those packages too. I can't find actual info on SN63xxdevices, but SN53xx was Mil temperature range modified DTL, while SN73xx was commerial modified DTL.
EDIT: the Modified DTL series seems to predate the DIL package. Even the commercial grade was packaged like this. So it could be industrial temp. range.
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I found these ICs among an old hobbyist's stock which was donated to our hackspace, and can't find any data about them. They appear to be early (1978) Texas Instruments surface mount chips, clipped into plastic carriers. Part number is SN6331.
Can anyone enlighten me, please?
Probably variant of SN5331 (Triple 3-Imput Nand/Nor gate, series Modified DTL) The Flatpack style hints at space- or missile grade. OTOH, some computing applications used those packages too. I can't find actual info on SN63xxdevices, but SN53xx was Mil temperature range modified DTL, while SN73xx was commerial modified DTL.
EDIT: the Modified DTL series seems to predate the DIL package. Even the commercial grade was packaged like this. So it could be industrial temp. range.
Thanks, Neomys. With those pointers I was able to find a little more information including an overview datasheet for the SN53/SN73 series. Sadly it doesn't give pinouts or even truth tables, so I can't check to see if the SN6331 is indeed a NAND/NOR chip or what that means, exactly.
Although the Wikipedia entry for the Flatpack format only mentions the military standard MIL-STD-1835C, the datasheet I found references JEDEC standards TO-84 and TO-89. TO-84 is the 14-pin outline which matches this chip.
If anyone has a source for the pinout of this chip or the possibly matching SN5331 or SN7331, I would be grateful.
-
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/?action=dlattach;attach=1819006;image)
-
Thanks again to both Neomys Sapiens and PA0PBZ.
Just to confirm the hypothesis, I wired up one of the SN6331 chips using a 3.5 V supply and did a quick logic test. It is indeed a triple 3-input NAND gate, consuming a fairly modest 11.3 mA with floating inputs.
Mystery solved.
-
I'm looking for the reference of a Germanium diode with transparent glass DO7 package and single black cathode ring.
Marking is "04" or "O4" in black.
Thanks...
-
I'm looking for the reference of a Germanium diode with transparent glass DO7 package and single black cathode ring.
Marking is "04" or "O4" in black.
Thanks...
Could part of the marking have been lost, and it's "OA"-something?
-
I'm looking for the reference of a Germanium diode with transparent glass DO7 package and single black cathode ring.
Marking is "04" or "O4" in black.
Thanks...
Could part of the marking have been lost, and it's "OA"-something?
I have 4 of them and it doesn't look so on any.
-
Hello,
does anybody know this type of through-hole (IR) LED-package?
What equipment is that from? Year? Country?
-
Does anyone know what kind of flow (?) sensor is this? It was extracted from a medical device. Two of them. I destroyed one.
A quick internet search didn;t produce any findings.
Alexander.
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Does anyone know what kind of flow (?) sensor is this? It was extracted from a medical device. Two of them. I destroyed one.
A quick internet search didn;t produce any findings.
Alexander.
Being more specific than "medical device" could have helped. But here ya go:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401066906582 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/401066906582)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295116570071 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/295116570071)
The four digit number is likely a year+week date code.
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Hello,
does anybody know this type of through-hole (IR) LED-package?
What equipment is that from? Year? Country?
Sorry for the late reply. These are in encoders from motorized linear stages from about the first half of the 1990s. The brand is Newport, but i have some indications, that they might be developed by Kensington-labs. I would locate both companies in the US, although later newport-stages in my possession are labeled to be made in France.
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I'm coming up blank in my search for the identity of this component.
[attach=1]
The designation on the board is for a diode. It seams to be a transient suppression device of some sort.
It's around a stepper motor drive section of the board.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Cheers,
Phil
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IIRC that's the Diodes Inc logo, so that should narrow down your search.
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IIRC that's the Diodes Inc logo, so that should narrow down your search.
Thanks, That's a great lead.
Phil
-
Actually, I found it. It's a Diodes Inc SMAJ24CA 24V bidirectional TVS diode. The marking is 'UZ'.
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Actually, I found it. It's a Diodes Inc SMAJ24CA 24V bidirectional TVS diode. The marking is 'UZ'.
Thanks heaps. The 24V would make sense, the supply is 24 volts.
Cheers,
Phil
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What might this be?
It was found inside a Pioneer SA-9800 stereo amp, supposedly serving some sort of DIY modification purpose.
The photos show only 3 wires but allegedly a fourth one had come off.
-
A thermally operated relay. Probably functioning as a time-delay, although it could be sensing power.
-
A thermally operated relay. Probably functioning as a time-delay, although it could be sensing power.
Perhaps speaker de-thump at power up?
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Spot on!
Someone managed to dig up this web page (https://collections.museumsvictoria.com.au/items/1699917) confirming what Andy said.
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Hi, i know what it is, but I would like to know who made it and where I could find a datasheet for it. I hope this is the right thread for this question, nevertheless.
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Looks like a Fujitsu logo?
And since you didn't tell us: It's a CCD. :)
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Got a few of these little guys recently. Apparently pulled out from some equipment, probably military, from the mid 80s. The marking says Plessey GPD340 (or GPD340P). A search for the datasheet came to nothing.
Has anyone come across these displays, or similar? Maybe there's a datasheet, or at least a pinout?
[attach=1]
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Maybe this guy?
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/858428378950982178/ (https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/858428378950982178/)
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Can somebody tell me what this part is ? Found it on a powersupply board of my dead russian benchtop meter . Could be some kind of regulator IC .
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Got a few of these little guys recently. Apparently pulled out from some equipment, probably military, from the mid 80s. The marking says Plessey GPD340 (or GPD340P). A search for the datasheet came to nothing.
Has anyone come across these displays, or similar? Maybe there's a datasheet, or at least a pinout?
(Attachment Link)
Those are 2 digit LED dotmatrix smart displays - afaik they have an integrated ascii decoder chip . The HP hdsp-2xxx series (e.g. hdsp-2001) should be very similar . Take a look at this : https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/021/HDSP-2001-pdf.php (https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/021/HDSP-2001-pdf.php)
I used a couple of these about 15 years ago in a temperature controller : https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/1/SLx2016.pdf (https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/1/SLx2016.pdf)
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Can someone help me work out the connector? I have a Bemex TC303 with no power supply so I need a new plug. It is only a 9V supply so not overly hard to get.
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Those are 2 digit LED dotmatrix smart displays - afaik they have an integrated ascii decoder chip . The HP hdsp-2xxx series (e.g. hdsp-2001) should be very similar . Take a look at this : https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/021/HDSP-2001-pdf.php (https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/021/HDSP-2001-pdf.php)
I used a couple of these about 15 years ago in a temperature controller : https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/1/SLx2016.pdf (https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/1/SLx2016.pdf)
Nope, they're not similar - simply there's not enough pins(only 8 ) to apply HDSP-2xxx's driving scheme, which requires at least 9 pins (5 to drive columns, 1 for data-in, 1 for CLK + GND and VCC). There's got to be some more sophisticated serial protocol like in HCMS-29xx series.
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Can somebody tell me what this part is ? Found it on a powersupply board of my dead russian benchtop meter . Could be some kind of regulator IC .
Looks like it's this thing - KPS104G
https://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_kps104g.html (https://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_kps104g.html)
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That's it , thank you :-+ Interresting part - a twin N-FET , never seen that before :)
What about the Osram SLx2016 ? This one is also a bit different - only 4 digits and less pins . . . maybe your 2 digit models need even less pins ? :-/O
At least it's a place to start . But you could be right about a serial interface :-//
You do not have the instruments they were taken from ? At least one to do some reverse engineering ?
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You do not have the instruments they were taken from ? At least one to do some reverse engineering ?
No, nothing whatsoever, that's why I'm asking here.
So far, I've not found any info/schematics/similar models from other manufacturers on the internet. So it seems, shooting in the dark with driving schemes is the only option to display something on them.
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Dears, May someone able to identifiy that component (from OWON frontend) it will big help because it need to be repair.
As I know the component start H1K is between the VGA and ADC , what start VUBI is somehow a power suply the ST3FF may also some power supply
Thanks
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Dears, May someone able to identifiy that component (from OWON frontend) it will big help because it need to be repair.
As I know the component start H1K is between the VGA and ADC , what start VUBI is somehow a power suply the ST3FF may also some power supply
Thanks
First one: https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130 (https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130)
Second one: https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html (https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html)
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Dears, May someone able to identifiy that component (from OWON frontend) it will big help because it need to be repair.
As I know the component start H1K is between the VGA and ADC , what start VUBI is somehow a power suply the ST3FF may also some power supply
Thanks
First one: https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130 (https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130)
Second one: https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html (https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html)
Thanks, is is strange because the TLV62130 diven a TPS723 (T08I) what is neg regulator...
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Dears, May someone able to identifiy that component (from OWON frontend) it will big help because it need to be repair.
As I know the component start H1K is between the VGA and ADC , what start VUBI is somehow a power suply the ST3FF may also some power supply
Thanks
First one: https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130 (https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130)
Second one: https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html (https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html)
Thanks, is is strange because the TLV62130 diven a TPS723 (T08I) what is neg regulator...
Read the datasheet, page 25.
"The TLV62130 can be used as inverting power supply by rearranging external circuitry as shown in Figure 40."
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Dears, May someone able to identifiy that component (from OWON frontend) it will big help because it need to be repair.
As I know the component start H1K is between the VGA and ADC , what start VUBI is somehow a power suply the ST3FF may also some power supply
Thanks
First one: https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130 (https://www.ti.com/product/TLV62130)
Second one: https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html (https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4932-1.html)
Thanks, is is strange because the TLV62130 diven a TPS723 (T08I) what is neg regulator...
Read the datasheet, page 25.
"The TLV62130 can be used as inverting power supply by rearranging external circuitry as shown in Figure 40."
Thanks your are right,
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hello!! trying too find a chromebook ic bios chip too a chromebook 11mk ee! the bios chip is Winbond ic bios chip W25Q64JWIM do anyone have a copy!! :-/O thank you very much!! if you can help!! Thanks!!!
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Any ideas what this buck controller IC may be? It is a ~100V input voltage buck, with 12V output. Seems to be the typical "floating controller" topology, however it has a rather not typical differential voltage sensing (see the two identical 121K - 3K9 voltage dividers looking at the output voltage). Sry, the schematic is a mess, just as I drawn it from the PCB.
Pinout of the IC is now clear. Marking not so much, someone has scared it with some abrasive tool, so we can be only sure about the first letter, S. Next letter may be L, but it may also be not. No idea how would one search for this. Turned whole LCSC upside down, looking for some SLxxxx chip that would match, found nothing even remotely close. The bottom 4 digits is likely just a date code.
Thank you for any ideas.
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Hello everybody,
today, I'm searching for connectors for two generations of mitutoyo touch signal probes. I'll start with the newer version. Does anybody know that connector type or has an idea, which similar connector could be modified easily to make a suitable counterpart?
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And here is the older version. Same question and one additional one: I guess HRS does not stand for "hotel reservation service" in this case. I wondered, if it could mean the connector was fabricated by hirose, since these are the consonants in the name it is also a Japanese company.
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Yes, that is Hirose's logo.
The first plug may be by Binder, I will look in some catalogs.
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What might this be?
Relay in a vacuum so that there is no arc when it breaks or makes. Minimises noise when switching an amp on or off for example. Could be timed, could simply be instantaneous. The vacuum is the key feature.