Dave Jones Gets His Wish - Blue Bob Parker ESR Meter by Anatek

[SgtRock]

Greetings EEVBees:

--Dave Jones once said, famously, to beginners, that "I hope your next project doesn't work". Meaning that they would have to get out the DMM and begin an investigation, reading schematics, checking continuity, testing components, verifying voltages, etc., and in the process getting an education in what being and electronic fix it guy is all about.

--The Bob Parker Blue ESR Meter by Anatek truly helps fulfill Dave's wish. The Bob Parker design is brilliant. The on board diagnostic software, full schematic, and part layout make it easy to repair. Unfortunately the Bean Counters at Anatek have induced some problems that must be causing a lot of folks to do unnecessary repairs and modifications.

--I assembled and calibrated the meter with no problems, it worked perfectly. Then I noticed that the right angle tactile switch was getting dodgy. The switch eventually gave up, so I desoldered it. The switch (see picture below) has four legs, only to of which are used in the switching action. The other two are provided (and this is a common practice for switches and jacks), to be soldered down to plated areas on the board, merely to provide mechanical stability. Whoever made the boards screwed up, because there were no plated areas for the switch support legs to solder to. Therefore the switch rocked back and forth until it destroyed itself.

--I managed to order two of the worlds cheapest (the only ones I could find) right angle tactile switchs from Uncle Lo of HK for 99 cents, shipping included. After a month I received the switches. I then installed one, and  solved the rocking problem by soldering a piece of hookup wire to the legs on the back of the board. Meter was now reading abnormally. To diagnose, I shorted out a resistor as instructed and replaced the battery with an adjustable power supply to provide the specified under voltage. I then pushed the new, firm, button for 5 seconds and it gave me a diagnostic code. This hint allowed me to eventually point to a transistor. When I desoldered the transistor I noticed the trace was broken. I jumped the trace with a wire. Now the meter, would not stay on. I found another transistor with a broken trace, Huh. This problem was solved with a 1/4" of bare jumper.

--That is four problems caused by the circuit board. The two broken traces are owing, no doubt, to the fact that these are the thinnest tinned traces I have ever seen, they do not even look like copper. So while, indeed, I like the instrument, and I did not mind an hour or two of investigating, desoldering and soldering, I did not like having to wait a month for a 50 cent switch, and I hope no more of the traces will break. With it safely in the case, my fingers are crossed. I think Dave should dial back the intensity of his "wish" to a simple Platypus double whammy, and not the dreaded Tasmanian Devil quadruple whammy.

"He didn't know where he was going. But he knew where he was wasn't it."
Lord Buckley 1906 - 1960
 
Best Regards
Clear Ether

[FenderBender]

Are the board files available? i.e. could you get your own made instead?

Or is it closed source to that extent?

[JuiceKing]

As luck would have it, I ordered one of these just yesterday!

I live one state over from Anatek, so standard FedEx ground delivery was practically instantaneous. It arrived this morning, before I had even read the email thanking me for my order. That same email had attached assembly instructions so that I could look it over in advance, a nice touch.

It looks like Anatek has addressed the issue you raise regarding the soldering points for mechanical support of the switch. There are four holes for soldering in the switch: two for signal and two for support.

Hopefully, they've improved the kit since you got yours. They strike me as a conscientious little company.

[JuiceKing]

I finished assembly in about 4 hours and it worked the first time for me.

The instructions were good for a reasonably experienced builder. They ask you to install components by broad type rather than giving you a long checklist of components, one at a time. The advice to review the board for errors by illuminating it from behind was helpful--I found several joints that were incompletely soldered or completely overlooked!

I was thrown off by a bi-polar electrolytic capacitor. I had never seen an electrolytic capacitor without polarity markings, and there was no mention of it in the instructions. A search of the web for this component turned up a question from another kit builder, so it was easy to figure out what to do, but the instructions should have made that clear.

My other gripe is that the through-holes for soldering the test leads are much too big for the leads supplied. An attempt to fill them in with solder resulted in too much heat and caused the lead insulation to peel back. I had to settle for a little bit of solder holding the lead to one side of the hole.

I ordered the "parrot clips" which are an optional step up from the usual alligator clips. Oddly, the kit didn't include the standard alligator clips, but did include their insulation shrouds. I wonder if they forgot to remove the shrouds from the kit, or whether they forgot to include the alligator clips. Doesn't really matter.

Overall, a pleasant bit of craft and a great value, I think, for $79.

[SgtRock]

Dear Juice King:

--My advice is to get that sucker in the case, quickly, before you bump something, and then have to look for traces of traces.
Just kidding, I really do like the unit. I have a spare switch if you need one.

"Measure twice. Cut once"
Norm Abram 1950 -

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[JuiceKing]

Thanks. I appreciated your review--I was more careful than usual with the traces just in case they were as fragile as you found. Maybe they've improved them along with the switch mount...can't say. Good luck with your capacitor testing!

[kg4arn]

I just received one today. 
The alligator clips were in the kit.  All four switch holes are on the board with solder pads for each.
The board itself appears to be of decent quality, 1.5mm thick, and very stiff.
Nice plastic Hammond brand case.  Haven't populated the board yet.

[FenderBender]

Does anyone know the name of the case it's in?

[baljemmett]

Does anyone know the name of the case it's in?

Looks like a Hammond 1553 from SgtRock's photo above -- 1553BTBUBK or 1553DTBUBK, depending on size.

(Edited to add: looking at the photos again I'm going to say the 1553DTBUBKBAT; looks like it has the extra mounting holes that correspond to the larger D variant, and probably the PP3 battery compartment so add the BAT suffix.)

[FenderBender]

Thanks it looks pretty decent.

[kg4arn]

The case I received with the kit is the Hammond 1553DTBUBKBAT.

[Dawn]

I've owned one for about 3 years or so now. Mine was factory built and I ordered mine with the optional probes. Mine is used daily on the bench and I haven't had a single problem with mine. I don't punch the switch and it just takes a light touch to turn it on and zero it. Maybe component quality has changed or I'm lucky and gentle on mine. Anatek is a very responsive company in the few times that I've dealt with them. I don't understand why you didn't address the issue with them. They seem very customer service oriented and I'm sure they would have offered a replacement switch for nominal cost or free if it was defective. Even though I bought mine built, it probably paid for itself the first week I had it on the bench. I absolutely hate the graph even though you get used to the trends after a short while. They should have retained Bob's original cap ESR grid that's on the original and Portuguese model. Maybe the built version differs on the leads. Mine has male bananas on it. A pair of optional smt tweezers would make life easier. I haven't seen their website lately and they very well may offer them. This meter has become a bench necessity like a multimeter or a scope for the work that i do. I used to use an old scope octupus I built in the 70's that I added a position for using my function generator to get an external signal source instead of low line voltage for qualitative ESR measurements. That's still a good test although it's rarely mentioned. It's a shame that octopus type signature analyzers have fallen into oblivion as a scope accessory.

[LDSisHere]

I just received and built my "Blue" ESR tester this past week.  I did not have any of the issues mentioned in the first post.  My PCB board seemed well made, I wish my own etched boards were as nice. Having a solder mask was a luxury for me that I do not get on my own boards.  I also bought the "Parrot" clips with my meter.  I initially liked them, however one of them would hang closing mare than 50% of the time.  To me it looked like the wire hook was been to the side a tad much, so I extended it and applied pressure with my fingers to try an straighten it some.  I did this several times using slightly more pressure each time, then checking the operation. I am not sure what material the hook is made of but it will not bend, but it will snap, way too easily.  Although I am the one that broke the clip, it would not have happened if it had operated correctly form the start.  If you are considering buying one of these I would not waste my money on the "Parrot" clips, for the money or slightly more you should be able to get something much better IMHO.

I am still trying to get a feel for the readings on smaller electrolytics and capacitors that are still in circuit.  I want to be able to identify potentially bad caps in circuit, then pull the suspect ones for an out of circuit test.  I sure it will take much experimentation to understand how different in circuit devices affect the readings that are displayed.

[kg4arn]

Just finished building the kit.  It appears to work as advertised, no problems.
My kit did not have the quality issues noted by others.
The Hammond case is top quality and the board quality is good as well.

[SgtRock]

Greetings EEVBees:

--Thanks to everyone for the good reports. I am glad that the problems with the older iterations have been fixed. I do find that this unit, even with the indicated repairs is very serviceable. I originally decided on this particular model because of the form factor (slim and long), and the obvious ruggedness. These are important factors when you are moving things onto and off of a very busy bench, or in the field, which is where I am a large portion of the time. I installed rubber skid proof feet on the back side (see attached picture), as well as putting the graphs on the bottom of the case. I removed portions of the graph sticker so the rubber feen could stick directly to the case. Why destroy the beauty of the top side of this exquisite Hammond Case.

1) I have decided to forgo for the moment, installing a jack to allow bench operation with an external power supply. Even though I see that this unit will literally eat 9 volt batteries. I would still encourage any of you who are making or wish to make this modification to share ideas, thoughts and/or pictures.

2) I have my heart set on installing the standard double Fluke type jack receptacle(s), so that the Blue ESR meter can interface easily with my suite of Pomona; Parrot, Alligator, Crock, SMD, and Etc. clips and appurtenances.  As you can see, Anatek provides you with an extra front plate for modifications. I would be interested in any cautions or suggestions on how to go about putting a standard 5mm double jack receptacle in place. See all attached pictures.


"Three weeks in the lab will save you a day in the library every time"
R. Stanley Williams 1951 -

Best Regards
Clear Ether