UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

[SeanB]

The GS version just is a more honest rating for the meter. The non GS version is somewhat optimistic in it's rating for overload, and the meter is not likely to survive testing to the standard without damage. The GS version will probably survive the testing without major malfunction.

[Didix]

As much as I can see from the offers on Alibaba, the Chinese ones come with a serial interface
whereas the ones in Germany come with the USB interface which would cost an extra around US$ 15 for the Alibaba one.

After having both the UT61E and the UT139C I recommend the UT139C instead, if you don't need the PC connection.

I have made a lot of reading in that thread,
but I am not yet sure whether my additional DMM will be a UT61E or UT139C.

If we neglect the fact of the price difference and
the fact that I am working on voltages below 230V and
did never use temperature measurement with my UT70A,
would you (or others) still go for the UT139C?

If yes, why?

-Didix

[Lightages]

If we forget the benefits of the U139C what is the benefit of a UT139C?   

[DaJones]

If we neglect the fact of the price difference and
the fact that I am working on voltages below 230V and
did never use temperature measurement with my UT70A,
would you (or others) still go for the UT139C?

If yes, why?

I think that is a very valid question.

I, too, do not need the high voltage protection or computer communications. I will be working with low voltages on my bench.

FROM THAT PERSPECTIVE ( not shouting, just emphasizing ), I would be very interested in hearing what everyone thinks.

[Ether]

Geez, I think this debate has been around for a pretty long time. You could probably check out the UT139C thread for more info.

In short, UT139C = better protection, temp. , larger digits (no bar graph), backlight, NCV, VFC, faster update speed.

UT61E= higher count, bar graph, pc connection

[Didix]

Did anybody connect two UT61E via the USB Connector to the same computer?
Will this work?

-Didix

[crystal]

As much as I can see from the offers on Alibaba, the Chinese ones come with a serial interface
whereas the ones in Germany come with the USB interface which would cost an extra around US$ 15 for the Alibaba one.

After having both the UT61E and the UT139C I recommend the UT139C instead, if you don't need the PC connection.

I have made a lot of reading in that thread,
but I am not yet sure whether my additional DMM will be a UT61E or UT139C.


If we neglect the fact of the price difference and
the fact that I am working on voltages below 230V and
did never use temperature measurement with my UT70A,
would you (or others) still go for the UT139C?

If yes, why?

-Didix

Buy the one that will fill up the cons of the multimeter you already have so they can supplement each other. What is your first multimeter?

[Yago]

If we neglect the fact of the price difference and
the fact that I am working on voltages below 230V and
did never use temperature measurement with my UT70A,
would you (or others) still go for the UT139C?

If yes, why?

-Didix

How do you know you will be working on voltages below 230?
The point with a meter is that you measure things with unknown values.

I was checking through television and ethernet cables in my house, had moved the rooms around and one PC/tv wasn't working correctly.
After a bit of headscratching, thought I'd better bell out these leads.
All the ethernet was belling out to televison and PC, and nothing would work properly...arg.
A thought that the TV wire has a long run and could have picked up some noise or damage to the cable and that too should be tested.
Display on the meter flashed!! WTF volts on the TV cable!!!

Turned the meter over to Volts stetting, checked and the meter display flashed again.

Putting it simply, whatever was on that TV aerial wire is more than the max volt capability of a CATIII 1000v Brymen 857s.

I have no equipment and no supplies of such voltage but it is here in my home.

[SeanB]

Congrats, you have a floating antenna lead, picking up static charge from the air and feeding it down the lead.  Roof antenna will need an earthing lead leading straight down from it to a 1.5m long earth spike driven into the earth directly underneath it. That should get the voltage down to a low level. Use 2.5mm cable ( rated for 20A) and coat the join to the copper coated steel earth rod with dielectric grease to keep corrosion at bay. If it already has an earth rod it is likely it has rusted away in the ground, pound in a new one next to it and join to the grounding wire.

[Yago]

Congrats, you have a floating antenna lead, picking up static charge from the air and feeding it down the lead.  Roof antenna will need an earthing lead leading straight down from it to a 1.5m long earth spike driven into the earth directly underneath it. That should get the voltage down to a low level. Use 2.5mm cable ( rated for 20A) and coat the join to the copper coated steel earth rod with dielectric grease to keep corrosion at bay. If it already has an earth rod it is likely it has rusted away in the ground, pound in a new one next to it and join to the grounding wire.

Hmm, it was connected to a lot tv stuff: distribution amp, dvd, cable tv...much of that earthed.

Still haven't had time to work out what the source was, just disconnected and isolated everything I could.
Will post back what I find, I don't think it is safe to assume it's static.
Would static hold a multimeter in clamped overvolt warning mode?
Thought it would dissipate pretty quick.

[SeanB]

Depends where you are, you can have a quite high power developed on a floating system, though as you say there is a lot of cable and such stuff, which likely is floating and is capable of withstanding 2kV WRT ground.

Short it to a good ground and see if it is AC or DC current that flows. Probably best to use a 10A range on a meter just in case, and a meter you are happy to make an oops with as well.

[Yago]

Cheers Sean.
Will have a look this week and post findings.

Hmm,  an old Avo might be getting a dusting off!

[Lightages]

If you are only going to use the UT61E on the bench and not care if you have NVC, temperature, back light, safe input protection, faster and bigger digits, then the U61E is a better buy. These are the benefits of the UT139C. If you take the benefits away, the reason to buy anything go away, thus my  " "

The UT61E has three benefits only IMHO. #1 higher count, #2 higher accuracy, #3 PC connection included. Of those three the only thing of real importance for the common user is the PC connection which is rarely used anyway. The UT139C is a better buy because of the things I listed. The proper input protection and NCV detector means that you don't have to guess if you are using the meter on a high voltage/energy circuit because it is protected correctly and you can see if there is a live circuit before touching it. The UT139C is more versatile and therefore a better buy "if you don't need the PC connection", as I said.

[gocemk]

If we neglect the fact of the price difference and
the fact that I am working on voltages below 230V and
did never use temperature measurement with my UT70A,
would you (or others) still go for the UT139C?

If yes, why?

-Didix

Hi, since i own the both multimeters, here's my 2 cents:
The UT61E feels much more responsive, the autoranging speed is faster than the UT139C, especially for measuring resistance. The continuity tester is also slightly faster on the UT61E. If you ever need data logging capabilities (i do) the UT61E comes in really handy. I have used this multimeter with voltages up to 220 V AC while doing some basic electrical maintenance without a problem. On the other hand, the UT139C has better input protection, backlight, temperature measuremenr (only 1 degree resolution), NCV, low pass filter, and current clamp capability (up to 60A) which comes in handy while doing electrical work. I use this meter mainly while i am on field work working on automation equipment and cabinets. Having said all that, the UT61E is better suited in lab environments working with "low voltage" electronics e.g. MCU's, PLC's or other types of digital control (or similar) ELECTRONICS, while the UT139C is better suited for ELECTRICAL work. If the missing data logger and the slightly slower autoranging of the UT139C are not a deal breaker for you, go for that one. Both meters are great value for money so you won't make a mistake with either of them.

[Didix]

Thank you guys

I think I will go for the UT61E.

As some of you are guessing right: I will primarily be using it on the bench!

For higher voltages and 'unknown' experiments I got my Fluke 76.
For temperature measurement my UT70A.

The UT61E feels much more responsive, the autoranging speed is faster than the UT139C, especially for measuring resistance. The continuity tester is also slightly faster on the UT61E. If you ever need data logging capabilities (i do) the UT61E comes in really handy.
...
 the UT61E is better suited in lab environments working with "low voltage" electronics e.g. MCU's, PLC's or other types of digital control (or similar) ELECTRONICS, while the UT139C is better suited for ELECTRICAL work.

If you are only going to use the UT61E on the bench and not care if you have NVC, temperature, back light, safe input protection, faster ad bigger digits, then the U61E s a better buy.
...
The UT61E has three benefits only IMHO. #1 higher count, #2 higher accuracy, #3 PC connection included. Of those three the only thing of real importance for the common user is the PC connection which is rarely used anyway.

What I actually could use is a second Logger.

Therefore my unfortunately not yet answered question:

Did anybody connect two UT61E via the USB Connector to the same computer?
Will this work?

I would be happy, if somebody has tried this out before ..

Well, actually I could buy the second UT61E with a serial interface.
Did somebody try that case? (one connected with USB and the other witch RS232 to the same computer)

-Didix

[Thilo78]

I would be happy, if somebody has tried this out before ..

Well, actually I could buy the second UT61E with a serial interface.
Did somebody try that case? (one connected with USB and the other witch RS232 to the same computer)

-Didix

Hi Didix,

can't tell for the UT61E, but I just tried with my UT71E, both connected via USB.

I just opened the software twice and was able to display both meters (see screenshot).
Second window comes up with an error, but it doesn't seem to matter.

Hope it helps

Thilo

edit: Remark: Just a very, very quick test. 

[crystal]

I wonder does this latest UT61E pcb version overshoot when meausuring volts. Usually meters with weak input protection overshoots, so this latest version with improved protection should perform better.

[Didix]

Hi Didix,

can't tell for the UT61E, but I just tried with my UT71E, both connected via USB.

I just opened the software twice and was able to display both meters (see screenshot).
Second window comes up with an error, but it doesn't seem to matter.

Hope it helps

Thilo

edit: Remark: Just a very, very quick test. 

Thanx so far Thilo!

Yes, the software can start up twice.
And it tells us, that the DB File is locked.

What we cannot see from your test is whether it is able to acquire and save two different signals at the same time.
And whether this data go to the same database or whether they can be saved to two files.
Would be perfect, if you (or somebody else) could give it a try 

-Didix

[Lightages]

Try installing the software twice to two different directories perhaps. Might not be possible.

[Thilo78]

Yep, I see the problem now.
Actually, when leaving the meters and the two software instances on for a few minutes, one windows ceased to work.

Apparently working with two windows is not actually working. 

Would have been too easy, I guess.
Also selecting the COM ports doesn't change anything...

The DB seems to be the same. I can't change it in preferences or whatever.

Edit: Tried the "two directories" method. This solves the DB issue.
But the problem is: The software doesn't check for individual USB ports. Thus one DMM wins, the other is not recorded 

[Wytnucls]

Check this thread:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut71d-review/msg442169/#msg442169

[Didix]

Check this thread:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut71d-review/msg442169/#msg442169

Hi Wytnucls

thanx for that hint - very good review!
I have read the whole thread.
I think what you are referring is the sentence
  "Multiple meter logging is possible, in two separate windows."
This sounds good news!

However, Thilo reports that it freezes after a couple of minutes.

Did you run it for a longer period of time and were you able to save two sets of data?

What did you do to get it reliably running?

-Didix

[Thilo78]

And most important:
When trying, I couldn't get the second meter to appear in that second window...
How did you hook up the USB cables? To individual ports on the laptop, or a hub? (can't recognize that from the pic) 

Thilo

[Wytnucls]

I have 2 USB cables that came with the 71B and 71D. One is marked USB in white font, the other is also marked USB, but in raised font.
The 61E logging only works with the USB in white font cable. The 61E doesn't log in tandem with any of the 71 meters.
The 71B and 71D can log together easily for as long as required (using their own dedicated software), the 71B using the raised font cable and the 71D the other one.
Both sets of data are saved on 2 separate Excel files.
No hub is used, just any of the 3 USB ports on a Sony VPCZ1, running Windows 7.

[Didix]

@Thilo:

Which version of the UT61E software did you try: v2 or v4?

Did you already try DMM (https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/hs/UNI-T/ )?
From the infos on that page it is not clear whether you can log two UT61E or not.

-Didix