I just did a very quick try with the new color laser, it works but I'll stick with the old monochrome.
The toner of the new one is a lot more sensitive to the heat and a bit light.
The fine traces are 10/10 in the middle and 10/20 (ended up being more like 15/5 and 15/15)
The thicker traces are 100/10 , 90/20, 80/30,...
Lots of smudging but I guess with some more trials, I could work out the ideal temperature and pressure needed. But as said, I'll just stick with the old printer that I know works well.
That's more for the sake of putting the information out there.
Note that that board wasn't prepared, I only just washed it.
The procedure I normally use is the following:
- Filing the rough edges where the board has been cut
-Giving it a thorough wash with dish soap and a scouring sponge.
-Thoroughly rinsing it and wipe it with isopropyl alcohol.
-Giving it a very quick etch (I use ammonium persulfate)
That does indeed help the toner sticking
-Thoroughly rising it without touching the copper. (With demineralised water)
-Drying in the oven (90°C) while I go print the transfer and have a snack, and wash my hands again (I found that using gloves doesn't make much of a difference when handling the board with care)
-I usually try to find thick glossy paper like wine catalogues or magazines, whatever I can get hand on. I tried proper transfer paper from the store, didn't make any difference except for the price. Print and straight to the board.
-I put 3 or 4 layers of paper towel under the board, the transfer on top, one more layer of paper towel (the cheapest I can find, with no indentations in it) and press with the cloth iron.
-Giving it a cold water bath with a bit of dish soap to help the water soaking in the paper. I usually don't really care how long it stays in the water, I just go do something else, some stayed a couple of hours in the water.
Doing that way, I barely have any fail with 10/20 traces. I did a couple 10/10 but had to do a couple of touch up's before etching.