Apologies, I mixed up the boards. It wasn't JLCPCB. We sent the design to two board houses and the best version was JLC, with correctly masked pads.
The helpful JLC support engineer tells me that their rule is: " the smallest solder mask width is 0.1mm , and it needs a 0.2mm pad to pad gap". Coincidentally, that is what we had on one of the QFNs (the other QFN was 0.25mm) and indeed the boards were correctly masked.
The second board house was ...crow. Although their masking was messed up, the general quality of their boards was very good, they soldered OK, and they worked 100%. But the production guys don't like the missing masking and I expect we will end up with JLC.