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Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« on: March 06, 2017, 01:13:42 am »
This awesome sanesmart arduino kit just made the arduino really hot (the transistor package part next to the DC input plug with three pins on the botom and a tab on the top). Best part is the notes in the code are still in chinese and the instructions tell you two different way to hook it up. Any way to tell if the IR sensor was damaged?
Heres the tutorial with code:
Quote
#define IR_IN  8  //????

int Pulse_Width = 0;//????
int ir_code = 0x00;// ?????
char  adrL_code = 0x00;//???
char  adrH_code = 0x00;//?????

void timer1_init(void)//????????
{
  TCCR1A = 0X00;
  TCCR1B = 0X05;//??????? 
  TCCR1C = 0X00;
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  TIMSK1 = 0X00;   //?????????
}
void remote_deal(void)//????????
{   //????
    Serial.println(ir_code,HEX);//16????
    Serial.println(adrL_code,HEX);//16????
}
char logic_value()//?????“0”?“1”???
{
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  while(!(digitalRead(IR_IN))); //???
  Pulse_Width=TCNT1;
  TCNT1=0;
  if(Pulse_Width>=7&&Pulse_Width<=10)//???560us
  {
    while(digitalRead(IR_IN));//?????
    Pulse_Width=TCNT1;
    TCNT1=0;
    if(Pulse_Width>=7&&Pulse_Width<=10)//?????560us
      return 0;
    else if(Pulse_Width>=25&&Pulse_Width<=27) //?????1.7ms
      return 1;
  }
  return -1;
}
void pulse_deal()//?????????????
{
  int i;
  int j;
  ir_code=0x00;// ??
  adrL_code=0x00;// ??
  adrH_code=0x00;// ??

  //?????????????
  for(i = 0 ; i < 16; i++)
  {
    if(logic_value() == 1) //?1
        ir_code |= (1<<i);//????
  }
  //????????????
  for(i = 0 ; i < 8; i++)
  {
    if(logic_value() == 1) //?1
      adrL_code |= (1<<i);//????
  }
  //??????????????
  for(j = 0 ; j < 8; j++)
  {
    if(logic_value() == 1) //?1
        adrH_code |= (1<<j);//????
  }
}
void remote_decode(void)//????
{
  TCNT1=0X00;       
  while(digitalRead(IR_IN))//?????
  {
    if(TCNT1>=1563)  //??????????100ms???????????
    {
      ir_code=0x00ff;// ?????
      adrL_code=0x00;//????????
      adrH_code=0x00;//????????
      return;
    } 
  }

  //????????????100ms
  TCNT1=0X00;

  while(!(digitalRead(IR_IN))); //???
  Pulse_Width=TCNT1;
  TCNT1=0;
  if(Pulse_Width>=140&&Pulse_Width<=141)//9ms
  {

    while(digitalRead(IR_IN));//?????
    Pulse_Width=TCNT1;
    TCNT1=0;
    if(Pulse_Width>=68&&Pulse_Width<=72)//4.5ms
    { 
      pulse_deal();
      return;
    }
    else if(Pulse_Width>=34&&Pulse_Width<=36)//2.25ms
    {
      while(!(digitalRead(IR_IN)));//???
      Pulse_Width=TCNT1;
      TCNT1=0;
      if(Pulse_Width>=7&&Pulse_Width<=10)//560us
      {
        return;
      }
    }
  }
}
void setup()
{
  Serial.begin(9600);
  pinMode(IR_IN,INPUT);//???????????
Serial.flush();
}
void loop()

  timer1_init();//??????
  while(1)
  {
    remote_decode();  //??
    remote_deal();   //??????
  } 
}

Quote
Chapter16 Infrared remote control
Infrared receiving head
What’s Infrared receiving head? Infrared remote control signals sent a series of binary pulse code. In order to make it from other infrared signal interference during wireless transmission, typically modulated it on a particular carrier frequency, and then emitted it by the infrared-emitting diode. The infrared receiving apparatus will have to filter out other clutter, only the specific frequency of the signal and restoring it into a binary pulse code. That is demodulated.
 
How it work? Built-in receiver tube infrared emission tube emitted light signal is converted to a weak signal. This signal via the IC internal amplifier amplifies. Then through automatic gain control, band pass filtering, demodulation, and waveform-shaped to restore the original encoding of the remote control transmitter, coded identification on the electrical input to circuit via a received signal output pin head.
 
How to connect? Infrared receiving head has three pin: VOUT connected to the analog port.  GND received experimental board’s GND.  VCC received experimental board's +5 v.
 
www.sainsmart.com
Copyright © 2013 SainSmart All Rights Reserved
Infrared remote control experiment
Experiment component 1. IR remote control  x1 2. Infrared receiving head  x1 3. Buzzer  x1 4. 220 ? resistance  x1 5. Breadboard & jumper wires
 
Experiment principle If you want to decode remote control, you must understand the coding system of the remote controller first. The coding system of the remote control we used is NEC protocol. Now let’s learn about NEC protocol: ? NEC protocol introduction? Feature? ?1?8-bit address spaces, 8-bit command spaces. ?2?address bits and command bits are transmitted twice for reliability. ?3?Pulse position modulation. ?4?Carrier frequency 38khz. ?5?Every bit’s time is 1.125ms or 2.25ms.
 
Protocol?
 
 
The above picture shows the typical NEC protocol pulse sequence. Note: This is the prior sending the LSB (least significant bit) agreement. Pulse propagation’s address is the 0x59 command 0x16 at the above. A message is start from a 9ms high level, followed by a 4.5ms low level (these two level made boot code) and then by the address code and command code. Address and command transfer twice. The second time all bits are inverted, can be used for use
www.sainsmart.com
Copyright © 2013 SainSmart All Rights Reserved
in the received message recognized. The total transmission time is constant, because the duplication of every point of its length negated. If you're not interested, you can ignore this reliability negated address and command can also expand to 16!
 
 
 
 
 
According to the characteristics and the receiving end of the waveform of the NEC coding, this experiment will divided receiving end’s wave form into four parts: Primer searching code (9ms And 4.5ms pulse), the address code 16 (including an 8-bit address and 8-bit address is negated), the command code 16 (package Including eight command-bit and 8-bit command negated), repeat code (9ms, 2.25ms, 560us pulse). HIGH segment of the received waveform and low section to be measured using the timer, based on the measured time to distinguish: a logical "0", a logical "1", cited seek pulse, repetitive pulses. Boot code and address code as long as the judge is correct pulse can be, without storage, but the command code must be stored, because each key command codes are different.
 
Connect your circuit as the below diagram

 :palm:

The lack of effort these companies put into their products is disgusting. Luckily I took this product back and bought the microcenter version, but it doesnt contain any tutorials.
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Online ataradov

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2017, 02:29:47 am »
Both arduino.org and arduino.cc are official sites.

Voltage regulator getting hot means a short on the power supply. You did something wrong assembling your circuit. It is impossible to say what is wrong without knowing what exactly you have assembled.
Alex
 

Online ataradov

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2017, 02:30:57 am »
Those are knock-off products. It is like buying a bootleg DVD and complaining about quality of picture. There is a reason those things are cheap.
Alex
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2017, 02:43:57 am »
Those are knock-off products. It is like buying a bootleg DVD and complaining about quality of picture. There is a reason those things are cheap.

Unfortunately I did not know that when I bought it. I had to rely on the salesman because I cant see very well. Wasn't cheap either.
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Offline Ian.M

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2017, 04:56:13 am »
Code: [Select]
#define IR_IN 8 // IR receive

Int Pulse_Width = 0; // store pulse width
Int ir_code = 0x00; // user code value
Char adrL_code = 0x00; // command code
Char adrH_code = 0x00; // command code anti-code

Void timer1_init (void) // timer initialization function
{
  TCCR1A = 0X00;
  TCCR1B = 0X05; // Give the timer clock source
  TCCR1C = 0X00;
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  TIMSK1 = 0X00; // Disable timer overflow interrupt
}
Void remote_deal (void) // Executes the decoding result function
{ //Data Display
    Serial.println (ir_code, HEX); // hexadecimal display
    Serial.println (adrL_code, HEX); // hexadecimal display
}
Char logic_value () // Determines logical values ??"0" and "1" sub-functions
{
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  While (! (DigitalRead (IR_IN))); // low wait
  Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
  TCNT1 = 0;
  If (Pulse_Width> = 7 && Pulse_Width <= 10) // low level 560us
  {
    While (digitalRead (IR_IN)); // is high waiting
    Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
    TCNT1 = 0;
    If (Pulse_Width> = 7 && Pulse_Width <= 10) // then high level 560us
      Return 0;
    Else if (Pulse_Width> = 25 && Pulse_Width <= 27) // then high level 1.7ms
      Return 1;
  }
  Return -1;
}
Void pulse_deal () // Receive address code and command code pulse function
{
  Int i;
  Int j
  Ir_code = 0x00; // clear
  AdrL_code = 0x00; // clear
  AdrH_code = 0x00; // clear

  // parse the user code value in the remote control code
  For (i = 0; i <16; i ++)
  {
    If (logic_value () == 1) // is 1
        Ir_code | = (1 << i); // save the key
  }
  // parse the command code in the remote control code
  For (i = 0; i <8; i ++)
  {
    If (logic_value () == 1) // is 1
      AdrL_code | = (1 << i); // save the key
  }
  // parse the code in the remote control code
  For (j = 0; j <8; j ++)
  {
    If (logic_value () == 1) // is 1
        AdrH_code | = (1 << j); // save the key
  }
}
Void remote_decode (void) // Decode function
{
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  While (digitalRead (IR_IN)) // is high waiting
  {
    If (TCNT1> = 1563) // When the high level lasts longer than 100ms, it means that there is no key press at this time
    {
      Ir_code = 0x00ff; // user code value
      AdrL_code = 0x00; // key before the value of a byte
      AdrH_code = 0x00; // key after a byte value
      Return;
    }
  }

  // If the high level lasts no more than 100ms
  TCNT1 = 0X00;

  While (! (DigitalRead (IR_IN))); // low wait
  Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
  TCNT1 = 0;
  If (Pulse_Width> = 140 && Pulse_Width <= 141) // 9ms
  {

    While (digitalRead (IR_IN)); // is high waiting
    Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
    TCNT1 = 0;
    If (Pulse_Width> = 68 && Pulse_Width <= 72) // 4.5ms
    {
      Pulse_deal ();
      Return;
    }
    Else if (Pulse_Width> = 34 && Pulse_Width <= 36) // 2.25ms
    {
      While (! (DigitalRead (IR_IN))); // low wait
      Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
      TCNT1 = 0;
      If (Pulse_Width> = 7 && Pulse_Width <= 10) // 560us
      {
        Return;
      }
    }
  }
}
Void setup ()
{
  Serial.begin (9600);
  PinMode (IR_IN, INPUT); // set the infrared receive pin as input
Serial.flush ();
}
Void loop ()
{
  Timer1_init (); // timer initialization
  While (1)
  {
    Remote_decode (); // decode
    Remote_deal (); // execute the decoding result
  }
}

There is absolutely nothing in that code that could account for the regulator overheating.  The only Arduino pin configured as an output is the serial TX pin, and that couldn't account for more than 50mA draw even if you'd shorted it, and only a few mA in normal operation.

Five possibilities exist (IMHO most probable first):

  • You've hooked up the IR sensor wrong (e.g. reversed the supply pins) so its drawing excessive current from the 5V rail.
    .
  • You've applied an excessive voltage to the DC in jack or Vin.  Although the regulator can withstand up to 20V abs. max in and is nominally rated at 800mA, its thermal resistance to ambient with the amount of copper area on the official Uno board is something like 85 °C/W (They f--ked it up and didn't give it enough copper area, or enough vias to get the heat to the bottom).  Tj_max is 150 °C. Assuming 60 °C 'ambient' near that part of the board, (not unreasonable if its in a case or the 5V rail is heavily loaded), that means its only good for about a watt before thermal shutdown, half that for reliable operation*. That puts an upper limit on the load current of 250mA @9V in or 140mA @12V in, which doesn't leave much for any shields etc. as the UNO draws about 50mA from the 5V rail.  TLDR: At 12V in the regulator will over-heat if you draw more than about 30mA extra from the 5V or 3.3V rails.
    .
  • You've blown the regulator (reverse bias) by powering it via the 5V pin and shorted the Vin pin to Gnd.
    .
  • Sainsmart used a crappy clone regulator that has failed.
    .
  • Sainsmart f--ked up the layout or the regulator decoupling caops and its oscillating under load.

* Opinions differ - See Arduino UNO regulator capacity? - Arduino Forum

What to do?
Disconnect everything, power the board from USB and try the Arduino IDE examples 01. Basics: Blink sketch.  If the LED doesn't blink its FUBARed.  Then disconnect the USB, apply 12V (+/-1V) to the DC power jack, and check it still blinks without the regulator overheating.  Then add a 150R resistor from +5V to Gnd to draw 33.3mA - the regulator should now be running warm but shouldn't overheat.  Check the 5V rail. If its below 4.9V the regulator's probably bad. 

Regulator replacement is possible if the UNO still runs from USB, if you can solder well enough and have a decent iron. :-+  If it doesn't run from USB, its BER.  :--

You can test the IR receiver (which is probably a TSOP38xx) or similar , without the Arduino by hooking it up to a 5.0V supply with a LED (cathode to out) + 1K series resistor between its output and +5V.  The LED should be normally off and blink when it is receiving an IR signal. Its idle supply current shoud be <0.5mA.  If the LED doesn't blink, or its drawing excessive current, you've blown it! :(
« Last Edit: March 06, 2017, 05:05:52 am by Ian.M »
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2017, 08:59:26 am »
Just hooked up the temperature sensor exactly the way this tutorial said. One minute later smoke started poring out of the temperature sensor.

That sucks I was actually going to make something with this sensor.

Hooked up to 5V and ground. Arduino is running off usb power.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2017, 09:02:54 am by raspberrypi »
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2017, 09:07:57 am »
Code: [Select]
#define IR_IN 8 // IR receive

Int Pulse_Width = 0; // store pulse width
Int ir_code = 0x00; // user code value
Char adrL_code = 0x00; // command code
Char adrH_code = 0x00; // command code anti-code

Void timer1_init (void) // timer initialization function
{
  TCCR1A = 0X00;
  TCCR1B = 0X05; // Give the timer clock source
  TCCR1C = 0X00;
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  TIMSK1 = 0X00; // Disable timer overflow interrupt
}
Void remote_deal (void) // Executes the decoding result function
{ //Data Display
    Serial.println (ir_code, HEX); // hexadecimal display
    Serial.println (adrL_code, HEX); // hexadecimal display
}
Char logic_value () // Determines logical values ??"0" and "1" sub-functions
{
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  While (! (DigitalRead (IR_IN))); // low wait
  Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
  TCNT1 = 0;
  If (Pulse_Width> = 7 && Pulse_Width <= 10) // low level 560us
  {
    While (digitalRead (IR_IN)); // is high waiting
    Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
    TCNT1 = 0;
    If (Pulse_Width> = 7 && Pulse_Width <= 10) // then high level 560us
      Return 0;
    Else if (Pulse_Width> = 25 && Pulse_Width <= 27) // then high level 1.7ms
      Return 1;
  }
  Return -1;
}
Void pulse_deal () // Receive address code and command code pulse function
{
  Int i;
  Int j
  Ir_code = 0x00; // clear
  AdrL_code = 0x00; // clear
  AdrH_code = 0x00; // clear

  // parse the user code value in the remote control code
  For (i = 0; i <16; i ++)
  {
    If (logic_value () == 1) // is 1
        Ir_code | = (1 << i); // save the key
  }
  // parse the command code in the remote control code
  For (i = 0; i <8; i ++)
  {
    If (logic_value () == 1) // is 1
      AdrL_code | = (1 << i); // save the key
  }
  // parse the code in the remote control code
  For (j = 0; j <8; j ++)
  {
    If (logic_value () == 1) // is 1
        AdrH_code | = (1 << j); // save the key
  }
}
Void remote_decode (void) // Decode function
{
  TCNT1 = 0X00;
  While (digitalRead (IR_IN)) // is high waiting
  {
    If (TCNT1> = 1563) // When the high level lasts longer than 100ms, it means that there is no key press at this time
    {
      Ir_code = 0x00ff; // user code value
      AdrL_code = 0x00; // key before the value of a byte
      AdrH_code = 0x00; // key after a byte value
      Return;
    }
  }

  // If the high level lasts no more than 100ms
  TCNT1 = 0X00;

  While (! (DigitalRead (IR_IN))); // low wait
  Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
  TCNT1 = 0;
  If (Pulse_Width> = 140 && Pulse_Width <= 141) // 9ms
  {

    While (digitalRead (IR_IN)); // is high waiting
    Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
    TCNT1 = 0;
    If (Pulse_Width> = 68 && Pulse_Width <= 72) // 4.5ms
    {
      Pulse_deal ();
      Return;
    }
    Else if (Pulse_Width> = 34 && Pulse_Width <= 36) // 2.25ms
    {
      While (! (DigitalRead (IR_IN))); // low wait
      Pulse_Width = TCNT1;
      TCNT1 = 0;
      If (Pulse_Width> = 7 && Pulse_Width <= 10) // 560us
      {
        Return;
      }
    }
  }
}
Void setup ()
{
  Serial.begin (9600);
  PinMode (IR_IN, INPUT); // set the infrared receive pin as input
Serial.flush ();
}
Void loop ()
{
  Timer1_init (); // timer initialization
  While (1)
  {
    Remote_decode (); // decode
    Remote_deal (); // execute the decoding result
  }
}

There is absolutely nothing in that code that could account for the regulator overheating.  The only Arduino pin configured as an output is the serial TX pin, and that couldn't account for more than 50mA draw even if you'd shorted it, and only a few mA in normal operation.

Five possibilities exist (IMHO most probable first):

  • You've hooked up the IR sensor wrong (e.g. reversed the supply pins) so its drawing excessive current from the 5V rail.
    .
  • You've applied an excessive voltage to the DC in jack or Vin.  Although the regulator can withstand up to 20V abs. max in and is nominally rated at 800mA, its thermal resistance to ambient with the amount of copper area on the official Uno board is something like 85 °C/W (They f--ked it up and didn't give it enough copper area, or enough vias to get the heat to the bottom).  Tj_max is 150 °C. Assuming 60 °C 'ambient' near that part of the board, (not unreasonable if its in a case or the 5V rail is heavily loaded), that means its only good for about a watt before thermal shutdown, half that for reliable operation*. That puts an upper limit on the load current of 250mA @9V in or 140mA @12V in, which doesn't leave much for any shields etc. as the UNO draws about 50mA from the 5V rail.  TLDR: At 12V in the regulator will over-heat if you draw more than about 30mA extra from the 5V or 3.3V rails.
    .
  • You've blown the regulator (reverse bias) by powering it via the 5V pin and shorted the Vin pin to Gnd.
    .
  • Sainsmart used a crappy clone regulator that has failed.
    .
  • Sainsmart f--ked up the layout or the regulator decoupling caops and its oscillating under load.

* Opinions differ - See Arduino UNO regulator capacity? - Arduino Forum

What to do?
Disconnect everything, power the board from USB and try the Arduino IDE examples 01. Basics: Blink sketch.  If the LED doesn't blink its FUBARed.  Then disconnect the USB, apply 12V (+/-1V) to the DC power jack, and check it still blinks without the regulator overheating.  Then add a 150R resistor from +5V to Gnd to draw 33.3mA - the regulator should now be running warm but shouldn't overheat.  Check the 5V rail. If its below 4.9V the regulator's probably bad. 

Regulator replacement is possible if the UNO still runs from USB, if you can solder well enough and have a decent iron. :-+  If it doesn't run from USB, its BER.  :--

You can test the IR receiver (which is probably a TSOP38xx) or similar , without the Arduino by hooking it up to a 5.0V supply with a LED (cathode to out) + 1K series resistor between its output and +5V.  The LED should be normally off and blink when it is receiving an IR signal. Its idle supply current shoud be <0.5mA.  If the LED doesn't blink, or its drawing excessive current, you've blown it! :(

I did hook the ir receiver up like that. Put an led and a resistor on the negative pin, +5 on positive pin. It lights up. I tried hooking the led to the center out pin to ground and pointing a remote at it but I didnt see it coming on. 

I did run the fading LED example from the arduino library and it worked fine so seems to be OK.
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Online ataradov

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2017, 09:12:48 am »
Hooked up to 5V and ground. Arduino is running off usb power.
Well, this pin out does not match the standard one, and the one that is mentioned in the "Chapter16 Infrared remote control" Nevermind, you are now talking about temperature sensor.

Can you show pictures of your setup?
« Last Edit: March 06, 2017, 09:14:53 am by ataradov »
Alex
 

Offline Ian.M

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2017, 09:27:35 am »
If its a LM35 analog temperature sensor it will work as shown in fig 12.3 of the Sainsmart tutorial, but if you have a DS18S20 digital temperature sensor and connect it like that it will let the holy smoke out as its +supply and ground pins are the opposite way round.   Also many TO92 transistors would smoke if you mistook them for a LM35.

If you are having problems with distinguishing small faint component markings, maybe consider a hand-held USB microscope, with LED illumination so you can get a well lit and very large view of the component on your PC screen.

I did hook the ir receiver up like that. Put an led and a resistor on the negative pin, +5 on positive pin. It lights up. I tried hooking the led to the center out pin to ground and pointing a remote at it but I didnt see it coming on. 

I did run the fading LED example from the arduino library and it worked fine so seems to be OK.

Errr NO.  The IR sensor needs Gnd on its middle leg, and with the lens 'bump facing you and the legs down, 5V on the righthand pin.   The lefthand pin is the output that goes LOW when it receives an IR signal, so connecting the LED between there and Gnd wont help you much, especially since its a lot harder to see if a LED briefly flickers off instead of wiring it so it flashes on.   
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2017, 11:21:26 am »
If its a LM35 analog temperature sensor it will work as shown in fig 12.3 of the Sainsmart tutorial, but if you have a DS18S20 digital temperature sensor and connect it like that it will let the holy smoke out as its +supply and ground pins are the opposite way round.   Also many TO92 transistors would smoke if you mistook them for a LM35.

If you are having problems with distinguishing small faint component markings, maybe consider a hand-held USB microscope, with LED illumination so you can get a well lit and very large view of the component on your PC screen.

I did hook the ir receiver up like that. Put an led and a resistor on the negative pin, +5 on positive pin. It lights up. I tried hooking the led to the center out pin to ground and pointing a remote at it but I didnt see it coming on. 

I did run the fading LED example from the arduino library and it worked fine so seems to be OK.

Errr NO.  The IR sensor needs Gnd on its middle leg, and with the lens 'bump facing you and the legs down, 5V on the righthand pin.   The lefthand pin is the output that goes LOW when it receives an IR signal, so connecting the LED between there and Gnd wont help you much, especially since its a lot harder to see if a LED briefly flickers off instead of wiring it so it flashes on.

I made this:




I wonder if those USB micro scope will work with a raspberrypi. Then I could have a dedicated monitor on all the time.
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Offline legacy

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2017, 11:35:52 am »
Arduino as forum is a shitty place. Sorry, it's what I believe.

Low quality in technical answers plus the attitude of promoting xenophobic attitudes

Someone there also believe s/he is in the "upper class", therefore s/he is allowed to insult
and a lot of guys are on "fuck off idiot, you must know C++, it's a MUST"

I won't suggest you to go there.
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2017, 12:02:08 pm »
Arduino as forum is a shitty place. Sorry, it's what I believe.

Low quality in technical answers plus the attitude of promoting xenophobic attitudes

Someone there also believe s/he is in the "upper class", therefore s/he is allowed to insult
and a lot of guys are on "fuck off idiot, you must know C++, it's a MUST"

I won't suggest you to go there.

Thanks for the advice. Thats why I like this board. I always get a laugh when people try to show off on these technical forums that have a beginners section. You know in real life they are complete losers who didnt lose their virginity until the age of 25, then put a ring on the finger of the first girl desperate enough to fuck them. If you have to show off on the internet its for a reason. They remind me of high school. The nerdy kids hated me because I was usually right (and I would rub it in so bad) and they were supposed to be the nerds. They also would always try to ask out my girl friends. So much to the point I told one of my girl friends(I had two) to lead them on, have them bring her out to dinner, then half way through I would show up and sit at the table and act as if they weren't there because she had an hour glass figure and DD cups. So I kind of already had my revenge on those people. The closest thing they will get to an hour glass figure is a 1/4 watt resistor, or a mail order bride.
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Offline Ian.M

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2017, 01:29:11 pm »

Should have worked except the resistor MUST be 1K not the 100R illustrated as the TSOP382xx output transistor is only rated for 5mA abs. max.

Also I said 5V supply, testing at a  lower voltage may conceal prior damage.

If the LED resistor was 1K, your IR sensor probably died earlier when the Arduino regulator got hot, and connecting it to a 5V bench supply let it draw too much current and incinerated its corpse!

The Pi as a bench webcam server is an interesting idea, however there are three strikes against it:
  • Finding one with a known chipset with a Linux driver will be difficult, except by gambling  by buying and trying.
  • If it has software controlled lighting, turning it on from LINUX may be impossible without reverse engineering the Windows utility.
  • The Pi's single USB root hub, shared with nearly all its I/O and low processor MIPS is likely to severely limit the max framerate, making the video very jerky

However, others have had good results: https://blog.adafruit.com/2013/04/19/sweet-usb-microscope-works-great-with-raspberry-pi-on-bus-power-piday-raspberrypi-raspberry_pi/  Add a compact removable ring light built with 3mm white LEDs, sanded to diffuse them, run in series off a separate adjustable current LED string driver and it could be excellent.

If your bench monitor has a composite in, take a look at http://www.romanblack.com/VGA_microscope/VGAmic.htm and leave out the VGA converter board.  Its not as high magnification as the USB microscopes, but as you wont have software zoom control that's probably not a bad thing. 
« Last Edit: March 06, 2017, 01:37:06 pm by Ian.M »
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #13 on: March 08, 2017, 03:59:55 am »
The IR sensor works (even with 100 \$\Omega\$ resistor; I built it before seeing that post, and ran it from 3.3v to about 12v using my new diy variable power supply).

Is there a way to test the temperature sensor? The smoke was from a USB cable it was touching and has no visible damage. I have had alot of components I have over heated the shit out of and they still work, how long I dont know but work well enough to play with.
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Online ataradov

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #14 on: March 08, 2017, 04:05:27 am »
Is there a way to test the temperature sensor?
Apply supply voltage and measure the voltage between the ground and Vout. There is formula in their wiki that tells how to translate that voltage into a temperature reading.

I have had alot of components I have over heated the shit out of and they still work, how long I dont know but work well enough to play with.
This is not the best attitude to take.
Alex
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2017, 08:20:47 am »
Is there a way to test the temperature sensor?
Apply supply voltage and measure the voltage between the ground and Vout. There is formula in their wiki that tells how to translate that voltage into a temperature reading.

I have had alot of components I have over heated the shit out of and they still work, how long I dont know but work well enough to play with.
This is not the best attitude to take.

Whos wiki?
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Online ataradov

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Alex
 

Offline raspberrypiTopic starter

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #17 on: March 09, 2017, 09:44:31 pm »
Whos wiki?
http://wiki.sainsmart.com/index.php/Chapter11_LM35_temperature_sensor

I'm sure LM35 datasheet has all this information as well.

I tend to stay away from these because the english is quite poor and most times just causes more confusion then when you started. This is one of the better translations, but still piss poor. You spend more time trying to translate the chinglish then learning,
Quote
What’s temperature sensor?

The temperature sensor is that use substances of various physical properties with temperature variation of the sensor and let the temperature converted to electricity. These regularly change the physical properties of the main body temperature sensor is a core part of the temperature measuring instruments, and a wide variety. In accordance with the measurement method is divided into contact and non-contact two major categories,
I'm legally blind so sometimes I ask obvious questions, but its because I can't see well.
 

Online ataradov

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Re: What the official arduino site with code and tutorials?
« Reply #18 on: March 09, 2017, 09:45:59 pm »
I tend to stay away from these because the english is quite poor
That's up to you. I personally take any information I can get in any language available.
Alex
 


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