Nothing gets past you guys! The motor also has 1.8A stamped on it. It draws pretty close to that at 20V with the current load.
Stamped "nominal currents" are also quite difficult to actually decipher, but far better than nothing. My rule of thumb has been that I tend to exceed that rating by 3x for short time (a few seconds), or by 1.5x for longer pulses (minutes). But never more than 3x-4x, since it usually doesn't offer more output torque due to iron saturation.
Note that if you just connect an "X volt" DC motor to "X volts" with stalled axle, it might easily take 10x the "nominal" current - only the resistances limit the current. Back-EMF is 0V, so current is (X volts - 0 V) / R.
Also note this is completely normal behavior - every motor is running at 0 rpm when you first power it, thus taking this full current when connected to a dumb, hefty DC source (such as a big battery). Most motors completely saturate their iron in this state, giving out only the same torque they would give out at far lower current - this means efficiency is very poor, extra amps and watts go in with no extra work out!
For this reason, proper PWM control should include current sense and feedback which allows
you to set the output current limit - have the same work done with less heat. Then you can also do both speed and torque control, which is kinda cool!
Of course, this is often utterly irrelevant with cheap small motors, and simple use cases. They are inefficient anyway, and have so much resistance in windings and brushes that current is fairly limited even when full DC is applied with stalled rotor, which protects the MOSFETs as well.