Flip Display Clock Project

[tooki]

My biggest gripe with the damned cheap clocks is the ones with an Up botton but no down. To go from 36-34 you have to push it 58 god dam times. 

And that's if you press "up" slowly. If you do it at a reasonable speed, the crappy debouncing code will make it miss half your presses…

Interesting idea from the Sony clocks. Might have to try it depending on how well mine works out. I figure it'll be one of those things were I'll constantly be tweaking it.

If you need demos of the Sony approaches, lemme know. My current alarm is the kind with separate clock displays, but my mom still has my old one with a single display.

[Gyro]

My biggest gripe with the damned cheap clocks is the ones with an Up botton but no down. To go from 36-34 you have to push it 58 god dam times. 
I might go full office space on it once I have a replacement.

Interesting idea from the Sony clocks. Might have to try it depending on how well mine works out. I figure it'll be one of those things were I'll constantly be tweaking it.

I'll be going for some thing similar to what you have SL4P just with 4.

I do have a small update. I picked out the wood at the local wood shop.

This is the wood I plan to use. It's sapele and ash. I think these two will complement each other nicely.



Here's a bonus pic of the very messy CNC. I need to do a bit of cleaning....   

Looks a nice contrast - are you planning on needing a few attempts?   

[Mysion]

Tooki thanks for the offer but I'll hold off right now. It may very well work good enough for my use.

I'm not planning on needing multiple attempts but it's a very real possibility, I've got way more wood then I need. I will probably do a short test run to see how well each wood machines and test what finish to use. I'll either finish it with clear or amber shellac.

My biggest worry is breaking an exotic 0.75 inch long 1/16 end mill. I've got two coming, hopefully I don't need more.

[SeanB]

Wood finish try sanding to 1200 grit then using some linseed oil or Danish oil to get a nice matt finish. I like all my oiled furniture, they have character to them from use, and as a bonus living in the borer belt they are almost immune to being eaten after they have had a number of coats applied to them. Walnut, Cherry and oak all come out nicely, and even cheap shutterply pine comes out looking reasonable with that.

I hate the modern particle board as that does get borer in them, because they stopped using formaldehyde based resins to bind the powder and chip together.

[Mysion]

If it all goes to plan I won't need to do to much sanding. I got an amazing finish on the CNC in the past. Sanding all depends on how well the edges line up when I laminate them. Hopefully I will be able to skip straight to fine sand paper. I'd consider oil but I already have shellac on hand.

Here's a few signs I've made in the past. No sanding done and finished with two light shellac coats. Indoors only due to the shellac.



The top is oak and the bottom one Mahogany. It's either high quality African mahogany or the genuine stuff. I haven't been able to find Mahogany since with a color that deep.

[Mysion]

The PCB's came today! Looking good! Project is starting to take shape.




The CAD design of the case is nearly done. I figured out how to have all the layers lock together for gluing. Took me a while. All that's left is the rear hole pattern for the buttons. I think I may have to wait until the rest of the parts come in. Some of the data sheets are lacking so I will have to take measurements.

Made a good start on the software too. With only 4K of program space it'll be fun! Honestly I don't anticipate any issues with only 4K.

[Mysion]

Well shit. The parts are in and they don't fit! Yay....  Turns out I used the pad out line for layout and not the much larger physical switch package.  I could bodge it but I have very tight physical limitation in the case. Plus I have a similar issue with the LED mounts as well. The lesson here is order your parts first and test fit them on a print out of the PCB. Lesson learned.



Well I'll make the best of this. I'll fit some of the circuitry and do a limited test of my driver. I should be able to remove most of the parts when the new board comes in. Maybe fix some of that wasted space too.

[Mysion]

Even though the PCB was flawed I decided to test what I could. I soldered on the buzzer, 12V power converter and part of the display drivers. The ATMega 48A was put on as well.



On testing the 12V supply worked fine. It floated at around 13.3V, a little high with load but for my uses it's good enough.  Buzzer had no issues thankfully. However my driver circuit had a minor error in it. Swapped a pad around in CAD and now the PNP MOSFETS will do what there supposed to.

I added a few minor things I forgot as well. Just a few debug test points. SDA, SCL and the like. 

Next up I'm getting ready to fire up the CNC. I've done a few test cuts. The Ash is very sensitive to heat and burns very easy. The Sapele looks like it will be a breeze to machine compared to the Ash.

[Mysion]

Alright time for a big update! It's CNC fun time.

Here we can see the CNC in action. It's cutting out one of the ash layers. It's a tedious process. I have to first flatten each side so he sticky tape can get a good grip. Then I have to get it to the right thickness before I start cutting the part out. Mistakes were made but it went well enough. I have to repeat this 6 times. The front will be the hardest so I'm saving it for last.


If there's interest I can get a video of the CNC in action.

There are 4 out of 6 layers done right now. I built in alignment posts into them. It all fits together very well, hopefully it will need minimal sanding. I really like how the colors are turning out so far. Feels really good to have it in my hand. I never heard of Sapele before this project and I'm loving this wood!




Last but not least the new PCB came in. You can see the new one on the bottom! You can see the different switches I decided to use with a few other minor changes. I went with a through hole buzzer too. The SMD one was hard to solder without melting it. 
The digikey shipment arrived at the same time. Perfect timing!

[Mr. Scram]

Those wooden parts look gorgeous, even though the sharp corners and protrusions across the grain scare me a bit. A hard knock or a screw that's too big might be all that is needed to crack the wood.

I really, really need to get my hands on a CNC machine.

[floobydust]

In firmware I suggest staggering the "flips" to lower peak current drain.
i.e "1"->"2" is 5 flips for one digit, and when digits roll over, there can be many to flip which can overload your power supply. Like 200msec per digit delay.

I did a outdoor flip-display billboard and used higher voltage with capacitive-discharge. Big flips caused the power to sag too much.

[Mysion]

Scram you make a good point.....  I may be guilty of form over function slightly. As long as I don't drop it though it should be good, with the exception of the screw hold not in a corner.
In retrospect I should have had the grain of the Ash 90 degrees relative to the Sapele. Ah well too late now... 

Yeah a CNC is a fun toy. I've done aluminium on mine okayish. It's a Sapeoko 3 XXL for reference.

Flooby dust you hit on an important point. My 12 supply is limited to 70 mA and each digit needs 20 mA for 20 mS to flip.
I'm not yet sure how I will flip them, if I use a pattern or not. I will have to sager them like you suggested. Thankfully there's not much of an inductive kick back if an when I looked on the scope. Better not be since I forgot protection diodes. 

[Mr. Scram]

Scram you make a good point.....  I may be guilty of form over function slightly. As long as I don't drop it though it should be good, with the exception of the screw hold not in a corner.
In retrospect I should have had the grain of the Ash 90 degrees relative to the Sapele. Ah well too late now... 

Yeah a CNC is a fun toy. I've done aluminium on mine okayish. It's a Sapeoko 3 XXL for reference.

Flooby dust you hit on an important point. My 12 supply is limited to 70 mA and each digit needs 20 mA for 20 mS to flip.
I'm not yet sure how I will flip them, if I use a pattern or not. I will have to sager them like you suggested. Thankfully there's not much of an inductive kick back if an when I looked on the scope. Better not be since I forgot protection diodes. 

Can you tell a little more about the CNC machine? Does it do brass and other softer metals too? Do you get any software with it, or do you need to supply that yourself?

I don't recall seeing a CNC machine with this type of spindle before. Usually it's one of those Dremel style ones, or just a full blown water cooled one.

[Mysion]

Sure just ask away!

I haven't done brass on mine yet. However if it can do aluminum it will be able to do brass. I haven't done any projects in aluminum yet but I do have a test piece I can show.



I used a 1/16 end mill and got good results. It's all within 10-20 thou if I recall correctly. It is a cnc router not mill and belt driven. Your not going to be making any thing really precise on it.
Still very capable and I have about a 1 meter by 1 meter routing area to play with. That said if you plan to work with metal all the time you need a proper mill.

As for the spindle it's a dewalt DW618 wood router. The CNC it's self came with the router and software to run gcode. All I had to make was the table. I have the one here https://shop.carbide3d.com/collections/frontpage/products/shapeoko-xl-kit?variant=42721938758
There is a smaller version too.

Now to generate the gcode I use the CAM feature of fusion 360. I do all my cad work and CNC code generation with it. As long as you make less than 100,000$ a year with it fusion 360 is free. (A problem I'd love to have)

Like I said if you have any more questions ask away!

[Mysion]

Ok I have good news and bad news. Good news is the PCB has been assembled and tested. It's working great. Bad news is the CNC is fucked. 
 
Here's a picture of the finished board. The 12V boost module is on the lower right. The RTC is hidden under the coin cell. The battery makes a great ground plane!



The good part is the CNC broke after I preformed multiple tool changes for the front plate. It would be a real shame to ruin it after so much work. You can see it with the epoxy in the inlay. The inlay is for the AM/PM and ALM indicator.
I was running the gcode for the colon insert in a block of derlin. It's the black object on the bottom right. Then the x axis locked up and the machine crashed.   



It's either the motor, cable, or driver. First failure I've had with the machine. Heck still more reliable than the 3D printer.

[Mysion]

Good news the CNC is fixed! Bad news is the control board needed to be replaced.

A stepper driver died on the dead board. I tried replacing it but it didn't work. I think the problem is it was too hot for to long. There is a ground plane in the board that acts as the heat sink. My hot air gun lacked the power to get the chip off and the chip was at high temperatures for a long time. Either that killed it or there was an internal trace damaged.

Next time I need a hot plate or oven. The new board is on the right in the picture below.



Once the CNC was fixed I finished off the case. The front indicator text was done using epoxy inlay. Even though it's not sanded yet it's looking real good! It looks exactly like what I expected with my cad model. I really love the contrast.





Now I just need to start sanding.

[Mysion]

After a lot of work the case has been sanded and then finished with shellac. I love the look of it! The sapele and ash really pops! I didn't think I had wood working in me!
I started with 80 grit sand paper and worked my way to 220 grit.

I also mounted the LED holder on the rear panel. It angles about 4 LED's 30 degrees from the vertical. I plan to activate them using a capacitive sensor on the top of the clock. Useful for the alarm too.



The letters on the rear pannel were made with a stencil. The stencil was cut out of 1/32 inch ply with a 1/32 inch end mill. The edges are blurry but it came out well enough. You can see a test piece with the stencil below.



With the case done I decided to start playing with the capacitive sensor. I just placed a short peice of copper tape on top of the display holder. It has to work through about 3/8 inch of wood.
It's pretty simple in operation. This micro controller drives it high then switches to a 10 meg-ohm resistor to drain it. Through testing I found out that it took slightly less than 150 uS for it to drain normally. If your within about 1/2 inch the sensor will trigger.



The next thing to do is to start wiring all the displays together and condensing it all down to a single 19 pin header. With some rough math I calculated about 210 soldering connections that I will have to make. Here's what I'm working with.



It's going to take a while... better keep working on it. 

[Mr. Scram]

After a lot of work the case has been sanded and then finished with shellac. I love the look of it! The sapele and ash really pops! I didn't think I had wood working in me!
I started with 80 grit sand paper and worked my way to 220 grit.

I also mounted the LED holder on the rear panel. It angles about 4 LED's 30 degrees from the vertical. I plan to activate them using a capacitive sensor on the top of the clock. Useful for the alarm too.



The letters on the rear pannel were made with a stencil. The stencil was cut out of 1/32 inch ply with a 1/32 inch end mill. The edges are blurry but it came out well enough. You can see a test piece with the stencil below.



With the case done I decided to start playing with the capacitive sensor. I just placed a short peice of copper tape on top of the display holder. It has to work through about 3/8 inch of wood.
It's pretty simple in operation. This micro controller drives it high then switches to a 10 meg-ohm resistor to drain it. Through testing I found out that it took slightly less than 150 uS for it to drain normally. If your within about 1/2 inch the sensor will trigger.



The next thing to do is to start wiring all the displays together and condensing it all down to a single 19 pin header. With some rough math I calculated about 210 soldering connections that I will have to make. Here's what I'm working with.



It's going to take a while... better keep working on it. 

A useful trick to prevent blurry edges, or underspray, is to use spray glue adhesive on the back. You let that dry until it's tacky and then spray paint your work piece. The glue seals the edges neatly, while also releasing after spraying. Generally, it says that you can reposition things on the can. You can get amazingly fine details that way, where you would normally get all sorts of messiness.

Can you tell a little bit more about the capacitive system and what chips or technology you used?

[Mysion]

That's a good tip with the glue! How much working time does it give you?
I'll have to give it a shot next time I need small text.


The capacitive part is surprisingly very simple. I'm not using any special chips just a 10M resistor and a copper sheet. Here's the circuit for the sensor.



(The 0J resistor is just a jumper)

The line going off screen connects to an IO on the AVR chip. The capacitive plate part is simply a header that goes to the larger copper area you see on the frame.
The AVR chip drives the line high. I use 1mS. Longer than needed just to make sure it's charged.

Then I switch the pin to high impedance mode and wait 150uS. At the end of 150uS I measure the value of the pin. If it reads high than some one has a hand near it.

They way it works if the plate acts as a capacitor similar to phone touch screen. It's discharges through a 10M resistor to ground. If you touch it or are near if you increase the capacitance of the plate.
Since humans act as earth referenced capacitors for some AC signals. The increased capacitance means that it's not discharged at the end of the 150uS time period and the chip will read a high.


I hope that clears it up. If any part of thats still fuzzy just ask.

[Mr. Scram]

That's a good tip with the glue! How much working time does it give you?
I'll have to give it a shot next time I need small text.


The capacitive part is surprisingly very simple. I'm not using any special chips just a 10M resistor and a copper sheet. Here's the circuit for the sensor.



(The 0J resistor is just a jumper)

The line going off screen connects to an IO on the AVR chip. The capacitive plate part is simply a header that goes to the larger copper area you see on the frame.
The AVR chip drives the line high. I use 1mS. Longer than needed just to make sure it's charged.

Then I switch the pin to high impedance mode and wait 150uS. At the end of 150uS I measure the value of the pin. If it reads high than some one has a hand near it.

They way it works if the plate acts as a capacitor similar to phone touch screen. It's discharges through a 10M resistor to ground. If you touch it or are near if you increase the capacitance of the plate.
Since humans act as earth referenced capacitors for some AC signals. The increased capacitance means that it's not discharged at the end of the 150uS time period and the chip will read a high.


I hope that clears it up. If any part of thats still fuzzy just ask.

That's an interesting and simple technique. I just know of various proprietary techniques, or at least proprietary names given to it. I might have to tinker around with this sometime. Even though a good clickety-clack switch can't be beat in terms of user feedback and zero power consumption, a solid state interface has its perks.

The working time of the glue doesn't seem to pose any problems. It's a rather weak glue meant to, maybe, stick permanently when applied right after spraying, or be temporary or "repositionable" after letting it dry for a bit. Various name and no name brands seem to carry something similar. I think it's intended to stick posters to foamcore boards and such. With a little bit of practice, it's quite easy to poke the glue and know whether it's good. It being too wet is quite obvious and it being totally dry takes a while. At worst, you can add another layer and get it started again. If done even roughly right, the backside of your stencil will be a bit like a post-it glue strip.

You can use the same stencil to paint multiple objects before the glue is fully dry and generally the front becoming too loaded with paint is more of a problem than the back drying out. Of course, one drawback is that reapplying paint on the back when the front is covered in paint can be a bit problematic, but if you let the stencil dry out completely, it should be reusable again, other than possible going wrinkly on you.

It's a little trick I picked up years ago from people who do complex street art style multi layered stencil paintings. It has served me well over the years in all sorts of projects.

https://www.graphicsdirect.co.uk/3m-spraymount-400ml.html

[Mysion]

Well after much waiting the new display adapter boards came in. This time each enable or disable pin has a diode preventing back feeding. I also redid the wiring and went with ribbon cables this time. The hand wiring was tedious to say the least and unreliable.



With a proper crimping tool ribbon cables are a breeze. The two cuts you see in the cable allow it to be routed along the support posts on the frame. Then the lower cable simply attaches on and breaks out the connections to the main board. Pretty slick.

With the board wired up properly time to work on the display code! Finally I get to see this thing tick. For the code I used an event loop based system. The clock iterates though a loop every 10-20 mS. This might not be the most elegant way but it worked well for the features I wanted. For most of the buttons holding them down triggers and alternate function, the event loops lets me easily keep track of how long every button has been held down. However that was a major gotcha that I ran into that almost derailed the project. I almost ran out of space in the 4096 byte chip. I ended up doing some serious code optimizations. I came in at 4084 bytes used out of 4096. I did get all the features in that I wanted so I just barely squeaked by!



Alright I'm getting close to the end here! Time for final assembly!  One of my design goals was to have the project breakdown easily. Judging by the picture below I'd say I accomplished this goal.



Now I just have to made a few final touched and make sure it all fits. I'm getting real close to calling it done, I should have the final post up real soon.